2014 Toyota Corolla, Cleaning Mass Air Flow Sensor and Throttle Body
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- Опубликовано: 23 ноя 2021
- The products featured in this video can be purchased via the following link(s)
CRC MAF and Throttle Body Cleaner Twin Pack
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Don't forget to be very gentle with the butterfly to avoid damage to the throttle motor
Great video
Doing this today.
God Bless
I noticed your coolant was low , I have the exact same car and noticed my coolant gets low very slowly over time
So on a 2012 (10th generation Corolla), this should work? When I tried this, it seemed like a lot of finger pressure to gently push the bottom half of the butterfly.
I can only answer for our car (11th gen E170). I would assume the process would be similar but I would also say to exercise caution with any component that seems stuck or difficult to manipulate. In my youth I spent a lot of time with a tap/die and extraction tools dealing with problems I caused myself by trying to muscle stiff parts.
Because ours is "throttle by wire" the butterfly is essentially ECM controlled with sensors and I do know they are much more sensitive then their cable driven counterparts back in the day.
I hope it works out and you get it cleaned up swiftly without any hiccups. Thanks for watching.
I didn’t see the comment to be gentle with the butter fly and my screw driver didn’t fit to hold it open. So I opened it with my finger a few times to spray inside and wipe. I think I may have damaged it. It idles super high now (almost 2,000 rpm) and the acceleration is inconsistent when I drive. Any advice or am I gonna need to replace the part?
This depends. Did you unhook the battery from the car? When the battery is disconnected from the car for a period of time, the ECM will clear and it has to reacquaint itself with the car (learning fuel trim and making other compensations for things that have happened over the life of the car). This process can take up to 100 miles and during that time it can idle high, rough,etc. For some cars that behavior is normal.
Also if you haven't reset the ECM and cleaned up the MAF, the vehicle can now be making incorrect compensations for A/F mixture, etc.
These sensors collect data about the car and the environment and adjust things based on that data. When you clean something or reset something you have changed that environment and this the data needs to relearn or change also.
If you had the battery disconnected, give it some time to relearn.
If you did not disconnect the battery. Swing by a parts store like Napa and let them scan the car for free and see if the vehicle is generating a code related to the throttle body/MAF or a related component. If so, address it, if not then reset the ECM, let it relearn and see what happens.
There is also a sequence for programming a new throttle body sensor online for your car. Google that and give it a try if other options don't work out.
Hope this helps
I did not disconnect the battery while cleaning the throttle body. I figured once I was having the issue I could try to disconnect the battery for a while to let it reset and it actually fixed the issue. It’s running good now. Probably should start to follow directions to avoid these situations. Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for video m8! Could this be why my car is vibrating? I changed the coils, spark plugs, and cleaned the throttle, but haven’t done the sensor. I got no check engine lights, and my motor mounts are still good. My car rattles when driving slow through a driveway, slightly vibrates when in P, N, R and almost no vibration when in D. But it’s bad when driving slow. Do you have one with changing the injectors? I also need to rule that out.
Thanks for watching Jay! Some of this is dependent on mileage. I would get a scanner on the car. The car can store codes even if you aren't throwing a CEL. Also, a high level scanner can give you access to live data and you can decipher a lot from that (timing, fuel/air trim data, etc.) If you have a loose timing chain/guide/tensioner you can use that data to decipher that. If the car is having to adjust fuel that can be indicative of an injector issue (specifically a spray issue which would give reason to pull the injector). Honestly, I'm old school and would always start with fresh fluids, filters and you've already swapped plugs/coils. Do you know for sure the mounts are still good? if you can place the car in drive, hold the brake down and give it a little gas and it disappears under load that could point towards mounts too.
I'm not a believer in "mechanic in a can" products but I do believe they can clean up minor carbon issues and dirty injectors. It may be worth tossing a can of lucas FI cleaner, B12 chemtool or seafoam in and see what happens.
I do not have an injector video on the corolla. A lot of my deeper dives (not filmed) are on our ford van, old saturn we had amongst other old junk I've owned. Honestly, this toyota is really a hassle free vehicle other than very basic maintenance items. Hope this helps!
I have a Toyota Corolla s 2014 and I had a coil problem so I changed them and the spark plugs but now, the car won’t pass 2000rpms without jerking really bad. Not sure if it’s the air mass flow sensor. But I’m gonna give this try.
@@stlouie88 Thanks for watching LJ. Since replacing the coils/plugs have you scanned the car for misfire codes? Cleaning MAF and TB is great preventative maintenance but this sounds like you have one or more dead cylinders (I once had a 99 Saturn that did this exact same thing. It used 2 coil packs instead of 4 like the corolla so when 1 coil died I lost 2 cylinders and it ran just like yours). I would scan the car for misfire codes. If you get any misfire codes, unplug and swap the coil with a non misfiring cylinder and see if the code moves to that cylinder, if so then you have diagnosed a bad coil. If the code doesn't change then you have issues upline from the coil.
Also check your fuel injectors. Is it possible a couple may have come unplugged while changing other parts? You can use a noid light to test those which can be purchased at a harbor freight if you dont own one.
I hope this advice helps solve your issue. Take care
@@homebuilthappiness2919 I’m gonna try the coil test since I didn’t change all of them, I only changed the damaged one at the time. And yeah, when my friend plugged it up to the computer scan, no codes had showed up. But maybe if I switch them around it will show the code error. I’ll also look into the fuel injectors. Also lastly, I have a CVT transmission on this Corolla, I’ve never done a transmission fluid change/flush, do you recommend that? I have some people who say yes, it’s overdue and I have others who say just leave it alone cuz once you replace it with new fluid, it’ll damage the trans.
@@stlouie88 could be you’re fuel injectors are bad. Try using some fuel I jocote cleaners from autozone
What happend if you dont remove the negative wire in battery when cleaning og maf and throttle?
In reality probably nothing. It's a pretty common practice and advised in most service manuals to disconnect power when servicing a vehicle so that there is less potential to short anything by accident. This car in particular uses "throttle by wire" which electronically controls input between pedal and throttle body instead of a traditional cable. It's good practice not to spray solvents around those components with power online.
In the past, I've done all kinds of ill advised things on older beaters with the battery connected and never have encountered any issues.
When on camera I try to adhere to best practices as much as I can.
Great question though, I appreciate it and thanks for watching.
@@homebuilthappiness2919 thanks bro
I have heard with later 3rd generation 4runners with the new drive by wire system randomly shutting closed if you leave the battery connected, this wouldn't be a safe option if you're sticking your finger in there to open it. I'm assuming it recalibrates itself when the pedal doesn't move from it's 0 position while the car is off.
dont disconnect your battery if you intend to get a smog test real soon, your monitors may not reset in time to pass
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