Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane Verses Regular Poly
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- Опубликовано: 27 окт 2018
- Varathane Triple Polyurethane Review and head to head matchup with standard oil based polyurethane. I compare the two by performing tests and seeing which one is better.
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I love 'what?' at the start; good start to the show. Very interesting and enjoyable vid. I'm impressed with how well all your vids are made, well shot and lit and very relaxed and smooth editing. You're another RUclipsr who inspires me to 'raise my bar'. Thank you for that mate.
Thanks for all the info I just started messing with this wood working project and its expensive adding the price of the stain and poly considering the size size of cans you get I said to my self I might as well paint the project and keep extra paint left over I was also trying to figure out to either get satin poly or glossy poly interior or exterior doesn't seem to hurt to spend 2 buck more for exterior hope I have extra for an outdoor project
Very practical review. THANK YOU !!
Thank you for the time and effort into making this video! good review!
Thank you! Really good video!
Just finished treating a 3m x 1m pine table top with 5 layers of regular PU and sanding with a 600 grid paper between layers.... What an awesome finish and it feels like silk
Your voice and presentation has a touch of the late Andy Rooney. Well done Test.
Thanks! I'm waiting on a call from "60 Minutes".
I just sprayed a dresser with minwax water based polyurethane triple thick sprayed one coat wasn't thrilled with finish sanded with 220 sprayed 2nd coat and came out alot better gonna sand with 320 and spray my third coat so you might wanna try that. I sprayed with becker and krause 20 dollar gun harbour freight never seen anyone on here with that set up can be done depends how perfect you wanna take it higher sandpaper and buffing im stopping at three thanks for your videos very helpfull. I think two coats of any paintinf finishing requires 2 or more coats
Good info. Thanks. toronto canada.
I use Varathane water-based poly. Regular. Works well for me.
Very helpful, thank you!
So they are both great products and use in proper applications...triple poly for steps and regular poly for everything PRETTY
It sands really well. Use a very high grit after your coat
Very helpful, thanks
Thanks this really helped because I actually bought the triple thick one . But regardless of which sealer I was using , I would not use a bristle brush and instead to use a sponge brush to avoid brush strokes even though the sponge might soak up a but of product I thinks the outcome will come out more smoothly.
The foam does work better than a brush with the Triple Thick. It also helps to go slow. If you run your applicator across the surface too fast you'll get more air bubbles which causes the texture he talks about in the video.
You wont have strokes if you do it lightly from side to side fast & straight through. My tables look amazing
I'm using a foam brush and still getting strokes. There's no way to drag the brush all the way across the 60" desk in one fell swoop, regardless of how little or how much poly I put on the brush, no matter how slow or fast I go. I still end up having to sand between coats and reapplying poly, striving for a smooth finish. I'm up to coat #3, so for me, I will not buy this product again.
I would also apply much less pressure than he had
There's one other category you can add: drying time. I bought the 3x thick because I have a custom bunk bed with stairs I'm staining and want to apply poly. There are about 30 or 40 pieces of pine to coat, and using regular poly is going to take forever having to coat it 3 times, on top of already spent 2 days staining.
You are 100% correct. Good point! Thanks for the feedback.
Two coats triple Polly sand and then use regular poly (thinner ) works well
Applying a sanding sealer before applying the polyurethane, helps to make it smoother. Also helps with minimizing splothes.
Specifically under the water based like the triple thick, or under the oil based too? Would dewaxed spray shellac be good?
Awesome. This helped.
I wonder if you were to warm the triple poly up by perhaps letting it sit on a heat pad for 15 minutes before starting to apply, if this would make it flow better and improve the viscosity so it would apply and self level better.
I use my heat pad a lot up north to warm up my caulks and glue. Even my phone, Lol
Would using a sponge brush work better with the triple poly and not leave the lines?
Enjoyable and informative Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
I've even considered thinning down my regular polly. I'm wondering if this might help with getting a better finish.
Would the dent test not depend were the marble hit the wood as there are different harnesses in the wood.
Try using a foam brush with water based poly, and thinning triple polyurethane with light sanding does very well.
Is the triple poly really more expensive considering it’s 1 coat instead of 3? Bristle brushes make micro bubbles in water based poly. Polishing with buffing compound will give it a mirror sheen.
I'm here because I'm new to using polyurethane and had a hard time getting the triple poly to go on without streaking. Good to know I'm not the only one with problems.
Tried triple thick and didn't like it at all. too rough. But I do like the regular water based varathane poly and goes on smooth. Much easier to spray on as well. It's a toss up between Minwax Polycrylic and and Varathane's water based poly.
I used this for the first time yesterday. It is certainly hard to apply. The first piece I did came out rough, very rough with brush strokes, etc, just like you described. On the second piece, I decided to be more generous with the quantity I'm applying, it came out smooth. This is not scientific, but an observation for me to keep in mine. I am now considering a second coat on the piece that came out rough.
One difference between what I am doing vs what you are doing, I am applying this on a cured water based paint which was applied on a cured water based primer on yellow pine wood. I dunno if that's a factor or not, but I thought it is worth mentioning because, this product is water based, if applied of base wood, it could case some grains to rise, which explains the lack of smoothness in your case.
Thanks for the input! I will have to use it more to see if I can get better results.
I agree. The water will lift the wood grain. Try seal it with shellac first or a layer of sanding sealer and sand smooth first, then the water based poly.
That sounds like a great idea. Thanks.
Thanks for this video! I am refinishing a pine dining table which I stained gray and wanted to be as durable as possible. (Our 4 kids will be sitting down to this puppy) but I didn’t want it shiny or yellow so I purchased the Matte finish triple thick. I applied it with a foam roller to avoid paint strokes but I’m not sure if that made it a thinner coat? I waited 24+ hrs, sanded with 400 grit and applied a second coat. Is this sufficient or should I apply another coat/coats? Your advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Technically you have 6 coats if this stuff is actually triple thick. A roller might thin it out more but then that depends how loaded the roller was. Pine is of course softer wood so if you can get away with another coat it couldn't hurt. Keep in mind that while the finish feels dry it can take a week to fully cure.
After the first coat of poly, it will make the grain of the wood come out. You need to sand good between coats. Especially after the first. A quality brush and even stokes are also the key. That being said, I prefer Minwax.
If I paint my wooden countertops white, with primer can I apply polyurethane (water based)- on top? And will it hold up well and be shiny. I want to get the epoxy sheen without using cause I feel polyurethane is more food safe than epoxy
I wonder if you could thin out the triple-thick poly to make 3 cans of regular poly for about the same cost (or a tiny bit more) as one can of regular poly. That way, if you prefer regular poly, you get 3 times as much when you mix it yourself.
Yes you can put paint thinner in it i would go half and half
Good question 🤔 I like where your head's at! Lol
@@grturn65 paint thinner in a water based product? Not a good idea.
@@joepiccard551 yes right that was 2 years ago he should use water to thin it out or buy it thinner
I used the triple poly on a rustic/modern coffee table I made. This was after watching videos and hearing great things about this poly. I spared no expense on the brush and followed the directions to a "T". I am very unimpressed with the results. Of course I applied this after the table was sanded and wiped free of dust and stained. I applied a thick coat and did not over work the product, and made one long pass as directed. The finished product produced a very rough feel, but not like a wood rough feel, more like a plastic rough feel. Secondly I noticed that if I take a photograph of it in certain light or even with my cell phone's flash it shows some hazing. Thirdly I noticed that when I moved something heavy across the table that it seemed to leave a hazy scratch line. Mind you I let the product cure completely also. I'm trying to see if it's possible to sand this down with fine sandpaper to smooth it out and apply another coat or wet sand it. I'm kind of stuck with what I want to do with it now. The build came out very nice I'm just very bummed with the finish of this poly.
One suggestion is to sand it down and apply regular oil based poly. Fully cured takes about a week. Thanks for the feedback. As I concluded in the video, I would only use it for things where you are not too concerned about getting a beautiful smooth finish.
I wish my wife hadn't seen this video ,,, after my beer left a ring on her table she tried the marble test on my forehead .😒
LOL! You did say it was "her table", so there you go. At least it was a marble test on your forehead and not a beer bottle test! So did it leave a ding in your forehead? 😅
What’s safer to use inside home furniture ??
How about drying time? I'm using the triple thick on a desk I just refurbished, and dang that stuff dries FAST!!!!
Great test! whats the best amount of time to wait between coats when spraying on oil based poly? i tried some in the can today an it seems to dry pretty fast... within 30 mins it was dry enough for next coat ...
As soon as its dry to the touch you can lightly sand it. It takes awhile to fully cure but between coats you can sand when its dry.
Did you try 2 coats on the 3x poly?
What about a water test? I hear the triple thick stuff gets milky and gooey if water sits on it.
Wouldn’t the test be one coat of each?
1) practice will yield better results as you learn to work the material like undoubtedly you have with oil poly for years.
2) waterborne products are always short wetting agents as they are always trying to keep voc’s down. Add some extender and you’ll be impressed at the overall finish.
What do you mean by "extender"?
Alley Picked acrylic resins and wetting agents.
@@ryane6719 will the extended make it more smooth, and what’s a wetting agent? And is it good safe?
Has anyone tried using a foam roller
Nice video. I'd like to see you do a comparison of regular water-based poly vs. triple water-based poly, rather than compare regular oil-based poly with triple water-based poly.
Good idea. Thanks!
That's exactly what I was thinking
@@AlleyPicked watching this at least 3 years past when it posted. Did the regular water based poly vs triple thick poly comparison video ever happen? Getting ready to use the triple thick on a pair of nightstands and was weighing my options on using a bristle brush vs foam.
@@mrmyblessednest1722 Not officially. But I have used both tripe and regular water based quite a bit in the last 3 years. I think the triple thick is more of a gimmick to sell. The water based dries so fast and with triple thick, you still need a second coat anyway....
@@AlleyPicked thanks for the input!
Alley Picked is right about the fact that that the Triple Thick Poly will leave brush strokes. While you can apply it extra with an extra thick, generous coat to to get rid of the brush strokes, the finish will be thicker in some places and look uneven.
Also the product will never fully cure. It's been 6 weeks since I've applied the Triple Thick Polyurethane to my kitchen counter top and if any water droplets are left for more than 2 hrs the surface turns milky white and gets soft.
I think you may have put it on too thick?
When you first put the stir stick into the triple poly I wondered how much it would streak. It's hard to get a smooth finish with stuff that thick. I wonder if it is better applied with a foam brush or lambskin kind of applicator.
Possibly... I didn't try various brush types but I did find a way to get a little better finish. ruclips.net/video/2Yk7LlaNqXo/видео.html
You hace to use a tad bit exra to not leave strokes. Quick light strokes all the way through. My tables tirned out amazing
Water based polys usually will lift the grain. I don’t know if six coats is too much.
That’s why you have to use a sanding sealer before your finish
Wish I had watched this first. I just stripped the triple thick off a table. I tried brushing and got brush marks. I tried rolling and got a pebbled surface like a football. I tried buffing it out with synthetic steel wool on a sander - by the time it was smooth I was all the way down to the wood. I will need to redo it with regular oil based poly.
Thanks for sharing your story about this mediocre product. While I was able to get decent results using it, I would never use it on a nice piece of furniture. ruclips.net/video/2Yk7LlaNqXo/видео.html
@@AlleyPicked I would not even have bought the product had I watched your video first - not to use on a dining table.
Thank you for the video. It's a very good one, but you are not comparing apples with apples. If you use water-based, it can not be compared with an oil-based. Also need to use the same brands.
I understand the critique. There are many different comparisons I could have made. The reason I compared these 2 was because my go to finish is 3 coats of oil based poly. I wanted to see if this triple thick stuff could replace it. Thanks for your feedback.
I put 2-3 coats of the triple thick, sand it with 220 then use the spray can polyurethane. I like my finish dummy thicc🥵🥵
Is the pray can still water based or oil?
I know that the little helper did everything. dad just takes the credit
Used a foam brush on triple poly you’ll get a smoother surface
After using the foam brush, do you still sand between coats?
I wonder if I could put that triple poly over acrylic art paint and it bond real well...being a unsanded surface since it's artwork that can't be sanded. Do you have any thoughts?
I have applied it before to paint and it works well. I'd be more concerned with the way it dries on some surfaces. Sometimes, it leaves a white cloudy finish in spots so test it on a smaller area if you can. I'm not a big fan of this stuff. You'd probably have better luck with a clear acrylic spray finish.
@@AlleyPicked do you think a clear acrylic spray finish would be better than just a clear coat spray can like the Rust-Oleum ultimate clear coat?
I also thought about water based spar urethane which I believe is pretty durable but easy for it to not look very good.
There are so many varieties/brands of clear coats. Keep in mind that polyurethane or spar urethanes can yellow your artwork. Generally for art work, there is a product called Krylon Fixatif. This is generally recommended to protect the art without applying a shine or discoloration.
When you use polyurethane, do you typically use wood conditioners?
Only on the end grain or on softer woods like pine.
Can this be applied to verticle surfaces?? Like cabinet framing??
Good question. I havent used it enough to say for sure but I think you can. However I would try in the inside of a cabinet first or on a scrap piece.
@@AlleyPicked
Yes.. it can... I used it in a closet this week...
(Not the triple thick one) but I'm sure it will too.
I wonder if I can use it on wagner hvlp?
Probably. But for the oil-based, you should thin it three parts poly to one part mineral spirits or paint thinner. I haven't used an HVLP sprayer myself yet, but that's the best method from what I've heard.
I use the same triple thick poly but cut it with water. It's too thick as is, especially if you hate sanding.
How many parts water and poly did you use?
You should have used a darker wood to show the brush marks.
Can you sand the Triple Poly, to smooth it, then apply regular poly as a second coat?
Never did it but I don't see you you couldn't do that.
@@AlleyPicked I picked some of this up last night. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the video.
Please do
Mark Mueller how did it turn out after applying regular poly after?
I haven't tried that yet. What I have been doing was to apply a second coat after sanding the first.
ruclips.net/video/2Yk7LlaNqXo/видео.html
I like to mix the triple thick polyurethane with water to thin it out, It applies better. For some reason i don't like how it brushes on or looks with straight from the can. When I mix it with water, it actually self levels. I also use a foam brush, but not a store bought one. I make my own with better quality foam.
Good suggestions -- you should work at Varathane :-)
@@AlleyPicked Lol, nah. I only got better using it because of researching other ways people have said they apply it. Then I would try my own techniques, and see what works. I usually like doing things different from most people. I never push away a product that most people don't like. You can always improve anything. Plus, I didn't want to just let a whole can of polyurethane go to waste.
I just picked up Minwax One Coat. I'll see if thats any better. I might also try your suggestion but I wonder if that will affect the durability.
@@AlleyPicked I'm not saying the Varathane triple thick is great. I just ended up figuring out an easier way to use it with better results. The common finishes that dont advertise "3x thick" or "one coat" usually apply easier for most people. Every finish out there works. Most of the time, the bad reviews come from people that dont want to take the time or learn to apply finish.
i read over my comment again. I wasn't trying to say anything negative towards you. I was mainly talking about the big box store reviews. Sorry if it came out wrong.
Anybody hear of Smart Polyurethane? Poly with stain used on outdoor sheds a lot? I'm looking for a product to protect T1-11 plywood exterior siding in Florida.
I have used the 2in1 poly stain and I did not like it. It is just tinted poly and gets very splotchy no matter how I tried it. Big thumbs down for me
I wouldn't brush on triple poly. I think is supposed to compete with epoxy. It's a pour on and let self level product.
No it's not. It's a brush on product.
Have you tried applying it with a foam brush?
I have not tried it. I have used foam on regular poly. I still prefer a real brush. The foam is good for a quick small project.
@@AlleyPicked
I have been a furniture stripper and refinisher for many years...
I HATE Foam brushes... too many bubbles...
I''d rather not... leaves too many bubbles...
and the Poly is too heavy for the cheap foam brushes...
I hate foam brushes...
I heat test would have been great...
Can u thin the varathane for spray?
I do not have experience with that. Someone else will need to comment on that. Thanks.
Is the triple poly water or oil based?
water
Another youtube video showed that using an orbital sander with a grey 3m pad can get polyurethane glass smooth and then following it up with the fine 3m pad (white) can get poly extremely smooth, so that would probably solve the triple poly issues. I think he started out with just 320 sandpaper on a foam sanding block to remove the nibs.... here is the link... ruclips.net/video/PpUBzF0LSnM/видео.html
True. I've done it like that. Great results.
Great video .. I'm refinishing an oak kitchen .. Triple thick won out according to your video .. would a soft sand after the first coat, then do a second coat provide a smoother finish? I DON"T want a yellowing effect !! .. ps .. I'm not afraid of work.
A light sanding/2nd coat would probably yield a smoother finish. If it doesn't come out the way you want, another option would be to use regular water based poly instead of the triple thick. Good Luck!
@@AlleyPicked thank you very much for the reply !!!
I have a 🙋♀️ question: what if the application was with a foam brush?
I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. I don't think a foam brush would work as good as a bristle brush. If you got good or decent results using one then that's great.
@@AlleyPicked can you recommend a self leveling polyurethane?
@@kendraborczuch-kitts8935SAS All polyurethane products are to be brushed on. Self leveling to me means that you pour the product on. They sell a self leveling pouring epoxy which makes for a thick smooth finish. I guess it depends on what you are going to use the finish on.
@@AlleyPicked I had a feeling I should’ve told you that, corn hole boards.
What is your suggestion for bar top, bamboo...need to sand after 2 1/2 years with water based poly, satin finish...about 4-5 coats...didnt hold up really well....no closed edge for pouring...thank you!!
How about using polyurethane for floors? It's more durable than regular poly. Be sure to let if fully cure. At least a week.
Not for nothing but wouldn't it have been better to use the same brand? Surely regular Varathane vs the triple would have been a more accurate test, vs using a different brand for the single strength.
That surely was an option. However, I wanted to compare it to the brand I know and trust. I was hoping that the triple thick would have been a better option to what I currently use. Thanks for your suggestion.
Buy a tripod. You have the shakes and it causes it to be out of focus a lot.
Either they live in a hobbit house or they are all giants
Are both applicable to polymer clay??
I would not use the oil based as it has a slight yellow tint. The water based should be good.
@@AlleyPicked thank you!!
One thing I can tell you all, the one coat description is false. It simply does not work. And for it not to dry too fast you need a certain amount of humidity in the air. And of course as the label says, temps above 90 will not work too well. But I have the feeling in the perfect ambience this would work fantastic as a two coat finish. Perhaps if you are a veteran in wood finishing you could get away with a single coat?
I used 2 coats of the triple poly and the second coat was smooth with no brush marks. I also used 0000 steel wool between coats.
Like for the 'what?'
I have found that the Triple Thick is better applied with a foam brush or foam roller. The slower you lay it down, the fewer air bubbles, the less texture you will feel. Air bubbles can also be removed by running a heat tool or hot dryer on low speed over the surface, be sure to constantly move the heat around and don't leave in one spot. It's the same as removing air bubbles in resin. You also have to apply thinner layers of the Triple Thick because the texture partially comes from the top drying before the underneath layer so when as the underneath dries it moves the top which is kinda like crackling.
Thank you for your insight.
Sanding sealers are not good for floors, you will have a better finish, but compromise durability. Sanding sealers are soft, and you don't want a finish that is soft to be walked on. Doors, furniture, cabinets standing sealers ok, not floors. Mahalo and Aloha.
The Kid in the background at 5:38 scratching his butt then his head was all like: What are you talking about man
Rollers people...rollers
Huh?
Can't roll poly because bubbles
🥇👍🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦
Wish I realized at the beginning you were comparing an oil to a water based poly. A waste of time imo.
I could have compared regular water based poly to triple poly. The point I was trying to prove was whether or not the triple poly could replace my "go to" oil based poly. It can't. Thanks for the feedback.
I use the triple poly when I'm working on rustic style pieces that I want to feel rough. Sliding door or headboard. I just slather it on without sanding. You cannot get this stuff to get smooth like the regular poly. This is not the product for smooth finishing.
You’re not supposed to use a brush
Then why do the instructions say to use a brush?
@@AlleyPicked The instructions tell you to use a Tbar
@@brendanokeefemusic- I don't know what you are referring to. The can says to use a bristle brush. Tbars are for floors. I'm referring to the more common purpose... furniture and other smaller wood projects.
ditch the music
This stuff sucks. Nuff said!!!
Very helpful. thank you