Glidden makes an oval synthetic brush with such a fine edge you could swear it's sable. I use it for polycrylic. No air pockets. Very fine application. These brushes are sold in the Walmart paint section.
I've had excellent results applying oil based wipe on poly with paper towels, shop towels, and old cotton rages. My favorite is the cotton rages because it holds the poly well and never leaves any lint. What is your experience using these three applicators to apply water-based poly?
Similar to prepping for oil based poly, you prep for water based with a barely moist brush and you'll get good results. For large projects, I will spray polycrylic and that's the best method for applying it. BUT!! I've switched to wipe-on poly after watching your video on finishing the shuffle boards. Got CRAZY smooth results.
You know I have to get a good spray guy and try spraying it. With so many cabinets it would be great to just spray them. But I am liking the results I am getting with the wipe on.
Roll and dip method with a foam brush. We used to use it painting yachts that were in the water because your not allowed to spray. You roll an area with a fine roller then go back over it with the foam pad to smooth out the texture.
I am a complete newbie and am finishing a dining room table that I paint washed. I need to use the water based because I can’t move this table from where it is and my husband works from home and he can’t with the fumes. Should I go with Minwax wipe on or the One coat? And what would you suggest I use to apply it? A good synthetic brush or the foam brush or pad since it’s a flat but large surface?
Sorry for the late replay Camidodi, I go with the one coat that way you will have only one or two Coats to do, and it will hold up better. There are still some fumes they are just mot as bad. With wipe on I almost always do at least 3 coats.
Thanks very much for sharing your results! Quick question for you as I'm switching to water based stains due to the intense fumes. Do I need to stick with a water based poly if I use a water based stain? It seems like you tested water based and oil based poly on the same shelves, and I'm assuming you didn't use different stains. Basically I'm saying I'll stick to the oil based wipe on poly if I can put that on top of a water based stain.
I’m thinking about screening and re coating My. 72 year old Hardwood Flooring in my main room and bedroom but before I do the poly I need to pre stain and then stain oil base minwax. Then stain the floor within 2 hours of prestain. My question is would you suggest buffing the stain on the floors or doing it buy hand wipe on then wipe off. The room is 24x18 or do you think I could put on pre stains and stain with a roller and take off by hand Thank you.
One thing you could try to extend the working time of the water-based poly is using one of those fine continuous mist spray bottles to just spritz it with a little water and that may allow it to stay wet a little longer to get your brush through without leaving marks. I saw a video of a lady who paints furniture who does that (with paint though). She will also give a spritz to her brush before loading it. And I'm pretty sure I saw a video of someone who covers their their paintings in polycrylic doing something similar, also with great results.
He is simply stating something that we all know. Water based poly is hard to work with on large flat surfaces. Also, most wood workers finish their projects and don't source it out to a painter.
Wipe Polly it’s good on small projects and small arts but in bigger things like cabinets handrails or any woodwork big it’s better to go regular Polly the protection it’s better and not do many coats like regular do on wiping 🧻 Polly
Iv grown to hate water based poly with with a passion. Even the expensive stuff, it has zero bubbles but it will not self level hardly at all on large surface. Stripping down yet another table now that had general finishes water poly and going with a homemade wipe on oil poly.
Glidden makes an oval synthetic brush with such a fine edge you could swear it's sable. I use it for polycrylic. No air pockets. Very fine application.
These brushes are sold in the Walmart paint section.
I've had excellent results applying oil based wipe on poly with paper towels, shop towels, and old cotton rages. My favorite is the cotton rages because it holds the poly well and never leaves any lint. What is your experience using these three applicators to apply water-based poly?
Similar to prepping for oil based poly, you prep for water based with a barely moist brush and you'll get good results. For large projects, I will spray polycrylic and that's the best method for applying it.
BUT!! I've switched to wipe-on poly after watching your video on finishing the shuffle boards. Got CRAZY smooth results.
You know I have to get a good spray guy and try spraying it. With so many cabinets it would be great to just spray them. But I am liking the results I am getting with the wipe on.
Roll and dip method with a foam brush. We used to use it painting yachts that were in the water because your not allowed to spray. You roll an area with a fine roller then go back over it with the foam pad to smooth out the texture.
Great tip! I will try that out.
Thank you, very helpful tips on finishing.
You are so welcome and thanks for watching.
I am a complete newbie and am finishing a dining room table that I paint washed. I need to use the water based because I can’t move this table from where it is and my husband works from home and he can’t with the fumes. Should I go with Minwax wipe on or the One coat? And what would you suggest I use to apply it? A good synthetic brush or the foam brush or pad since it’s a flat but large surface?
Sorry for the late replay Camidodi, I go with the one coat that way you will have only one or two Coats to do, and it will hold up better. There are still some fumes they are just mot as bad. With wipe on I almost always do at least 3 coats.
Thanks very much for sharing your results! Quick question for you as I'm switching to water based stains due to the intense fumes. Do I need to stick with a water based poly if I use a water based stain? It seems like you tested water based and oil based poly on the same shelves, and I'm assuming you didn't use different stains. Basically I'm saying I'll stick to the oil based wipe on poly if I can put that on top of a water based stain.
Once they are dry you should be able to use either one on top of each other. As always try it on a test piece just to make sure. Thanks for watching.
I believe you just need to give it extra dryimg time, like at least 24 hours is what I've heard
I’m thinking about screening and re coating
My. 72 year old Hardwood Flooring in my main room and bedroom but before I do the poly I need to pre stain and then stain oil base minwax. Then stain the floor within 2 hours of prestain. My question is would you suggest buffing the stain on the floors or doing it buy hand wipe on then wipe off.
The room is 24x18 or do you think I could put on pre stains and stain with a roller and take off by hand
Thank you.
I never did anything that big, or hardwood floors. So I am not sure how to advise you on that. Sorry.
I appreciate your honesty
One thing you could try to extend the working time of the water-based poly is using one of those fine continuous mist spray bottles to just spritz it with a little water and that may allow it to stay wet a little longer to get your brush through without leaving marks. I saw a video of a lady who paints furniture who does that (with paint though). She will also give a spritz to her brush before loading it. And I'm pretty sure I saw a video of someone who covers their their paintings in polycrylic doing something similar, also with great results.
I like that idea Joshua, I will try that out. Thanks!
I’ve been using foam brushes for a long time. Saw Norm Abram use them on New Yankee Workshop. Have you tried any exterior water based poly?
The foam brushes do work great. I have not tried exterior water based poly. Do you find it easier to use?
@@MadNerdWorkshop I’ve never tried exterior either.
Thank you for your expertise ☺️
Thanks for watching!
How about using an hvlp sprayer with a fine spray nozzle? Have you tried that? Would that leave a smooth finish with a water based poly?
I did in another video, and I agree, it does work well. Thanks for watching.
I've heard people have excellent results spraying the water based polly
Yes, I even have a later video on it: ruclips.net/video/Tl7ocOnRuNw/видео.html
Yep, it is so unexpected, but everyone swears by the foam brush. Maybe on the edges you could use the purdy brush and then wipe over it with foam.
I know I was not expecting it. Thanks for watching.
Can dip metals and plastics in it for a clear coat protection coating?
I am not sure on that one Sweetaccord.
@@MadNerdWorkshop OK 😊
i was curious how this would work on turned wood pen blanks??????
I would work find, but I think I would use the oil base wipe-on poly. I think that would give a smoother finish. Thanks for watching.
@@MadNerdWorkshop i also have wipe on tungoil to try on my pens thanks for the help
I just tried brushing gf endurovar on. Ehh. I'll go back to spraying it.
Spraying is the best way, thanks for watching.
Purdy extra glide 3' finish brushes
I just got one to try out. :)
I’ve heard the wipe on poly is nothing more than thinned down regular poly. So make your own and save money!
you can do that and it will save you a fair amount of money. In addition, you can make it the thickness you like to work with.
Stick to making the cabinets and let a painter finish them. I have no clue of what you are talking about or how to do it.
If you have a painter available, that is the best way to go. Thanks for watching.
He is simply stating something that we all know. Water based poly is hard to work with on large flat surfaces. Also, most wood workers finish their projects and don't source it out to a painter.
I think you did a great job,well explained,thx
Wipe Polly it’s good on small projects and small arts but in bigger things like cabinets handrails or any woodwork big it’s better to go regular Polly the protection it’s better and not do many coats like regular do on wiping 🧻 Polly
I agree with you thexflexcian. But after saying that, I did do all of my kitchen cabinets with Wipe-on Poly. I like the finish look of wipe-on.
Iv grown to hate water based poly with with a passion. Even the expensive stuff, it has zero bubbles but it will not self level hardly at all on large surface. Stripping down yet another table now that had general finishes water poly and going with a homemade wipe on oil poly.
I don't hate it...yet. :) But I do like the oil based ones better.