The SECRET to One Coat Polyurethanes
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- Опубликовано: 9 янв 2019
- Following the directions to Varathane Triple thick polyurethane and Minwax One Coat Polyurethane will not provide a smooth finish. Watch this video to learn the secret to getting a good quailty smooth finish.
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I am going to refinish kitchen cabinets and watched tones of videos. Yours are the most valuable!!! Thank you for truthful reviews!
Glad you found them helpful.
I had the exact same experience. 2 coats needed, with a 320 sanding in between. The only time saved is a third coat!
Great video. Very helpful and informative.
This video was very helpful, thank you!
Thank you, finally some data
I'm using the Varathane Poly and have the shine but still had the brush strokes after one coat as well. I leveled my project and had space heaters warming my garage more than the rest of my house but still, the self leveling didn't work as promised. I think though that I may have placed too light of a coat on it. First time. So I'm about to go back to the project with sand paper and a second, thicker coat. Then I'll try light sanding and polish afterwards. Thanks for the advice though!
Good luck. The brush you are using will also have an effect on the results. Frankly, water based will never be better than oil based.
This is fantastic quality. Great thumbnail, great editing. Punchy and a topic which kept me, a not usually into this thing kind of guy, interested
Thanks man! Appreciate the kind feedback.
Pre raise the grain and sand it before applying the first coat and many times you will not need a second coat. It is common knowledge that you have to pre raise the grain before applying any water based finish.
I have had a couple comments to that effect and it sounds like a great idea. I would have hoped the the instructions on the can would have said that. They didn't. I'll have to test that. Thanks.
What grit? Does this concept apply for oil based polyU?
These were very helpful, since I'm a layman I'm going to skip this stuff and just use regular water. Thanks
Thank you for the insights. It's kinda what suspected.
I'm new to woodworking, 40 and I enjoy building stuff. So I'm making my son and myself desk. Came out decent, stain was nice, desired look n all. Went to put the varathane 3x poly on. Brush strokes with a good quality brush. I took 220 sandpaper to a spot and sanded it smooth. Only thing I had around was a regular sponge. Since this was in a obscure spot I tried it. Was smooth and like it should have been. Needless to say, I'm going to go buy regular poly sometime this week because I really dont like this stuff. Figured I'd throw the sponge out there
When I polish coat the wood the coating gets removed after a month or so
I wonder if coating with something like gelatin before the urethane would help prevent the raised grain. Apparently this is done on things like violins.
Thanks for the tip
Up until now, I've used the Minwax on my rough pallet wood projects. The finish doesn't matter. Horrible on smoother projects and any pooling finish dries white.
Going to try two coats and see if I can finally use up the can.
Thx for the video!
Upon calling minwax. The secret is a very heavy flood coat. No pour coat. It will look foggy and clear out. It must be able to level and this happens with a flood coat
THIS. Such an underrated comment and I believe this is the key. Long story short, I am coating coasters. My first short, I did a flood coat. They turned out phenomenal. I figured one more cost to make sure I hit everything. I messed with the corners on them because they looked like they got missed, then I had a raise. Sanded it and recoated. Did a thinner coat and got brush streaks . Sanded and coated again after I touched the front while it was tacky by mistake. Tried to mess with it with a wet brush while it was tacky and drying. Air bubbles. Flood coat is the best.
I have some Minwax one coat, so this is helpful. So, I stained everything, now one coat of this and let it try 24 hours, sand it, then another coat? I do obey the 24-hour drying rule, right?
NICE VIDEO
so helpful
Dear Alley, I always been using only Food Safe Oil. I have new clients that want to see American Walnut Darker than normal. Great Videos and Information !!
How long does smell last after poly is it safe to stay in house with ventilation??
Thanks
I only use one coat, no sanding needed if you run the brush after it's applied along the grain the whole length of the board, 2nd apply a liberal amount, and it will self level.
I think it also depends if you sanded the wood smooth, I applied on the back sanded with 80 grit and it raises the fibers like no tomorrow, on the top I sanded it down to a smoooooth 220 and it was much better, this is using a harder acadia wood also.
If you spray them one heavy coat will do?
is there a product that will not turn yellow on cabinets
Andy Rooney. Very goood test.
Thanks!
My experience is if you like brush marks in the finish its great.
LOL
Did you try it on red mahogany? Says on the can not to use it. From what I can tell it’s because the iron in the red stains will darken from the water based stain.
One of the samples I think I used was red mahogany. I didn't notice an issue with it.
Thanks for the video. Do you sand again after the last application of the Minwax One coat?
I dont but what I like to do instead of sandpaper is to rub it down using a piece of a brown paper bag. It acts like a super fine sandpaper but doesn't remove the shine.
@@AlleyPicked Thanks for the tip! I don't have much experience with finish. What sandpaper grade you use on the wood before and after the Varnish? I understand that you use 320 after the first poly coat?
So what's cheaper in the long run?
Thanks for this video! Do you have a preference for Polycrylic or Polyurethane when applying a protective coat on a bookshelf that smells (maybe due to formaldehyde) and is smudgy? I'm trying to get rid of the smell and smudginess, while also protecting the books from both problems. Thanks again!
Have you tried to clean the bookshelf first using mineral spirits and fine steel wool? Any of the poly finishes should work.
@@AlleyPicked - So something like this www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R3C7BMS and this www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MDTWQR, without any poly at all? It's a new bookshelf and looks great (visually), it just has a really bad smell and a light "film" of something on it (which I couldn't really get rid of completely with white vinegar and water and paper towels).. Thanks for your help!
@@ChrisMooreOfficial Yes, or try the mineral spirits with just a rag. The steel will will be a little more aggressive on the surface if you need it. That price for the mineral spirits is expensive. I buy a whole gallon at home depot for less than that price. You can also use paint thinner, it usually has a little more odor than mineral spirits. Here is an odorless paint thinner: www.amazon.com/SUNNYSIDE-CORPORATION-70532-1-Quart-Odorless/dp/B000C02ADS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=mineral+spirits&qid=1597840912&s=hi&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUkMzUlpGTzU5Q0RTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTIyMDY2MkxGNUo4MUpZN0w0OSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzQ2MzY0M0QxVjFFRDNQQUJRSiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
@@AlleyPicked - Appreciate your insights and help. I'll give the Mineral Spirits approach a try.
Hey great video. I have painted something on my bare wood. I then stained it and added one coat of poly. I want to sand it and add a second coat of poly, but I'm worried I'll remove some of the underlying paint. Will it be safe?
Some products say that if you give a second coat before a certain time period, you don't need to sand between coats. If you are outside of that time frame, then you can lightly sand using 220 grit. You should be able to sand it without getting through to the paint. You don't need to press too hard while sanding. Be sure to clean off any dust you create by sanding. Good Luck!
@@AlleyPicked thank you for the reply! I'll try that
One other quick note - you mention 320 in the video, but now you're suggesting 220. Any specific reason?
@@joevandevusse3004 Probably not much difference. I recently used Polyurethane on my wood floor and the instructions said 220 -- I guess that was fresh on my mind. If you have 220, use it. Otherwise 320 will be ok.
@@AlleyPicked Great thanks for all the help!
My only question now, is how long did you wait to sand and put on the 2nd coat? 24 hours? I was hoping to be able to do it in 2-4 hours.
The first coat dries quicker. In under 2 hours. The last coat takes more in the 2-4 range. depends on temperature/humidity.
I find the Varathane still stinks, i ended up applying 2 thinner coats, sand with 220 then apply a final 3rd coat, it was too thin after the first to sand, maybe I wasn't generous enough, was afraid to remove the stain. instructions says to apply 9 mils thick to get 3 mils dry film, I probably didn't put it on that thicc.
Bare wood fibers expand and cause roughness. Sanding is necessary for all of this stuff. Do it right - sand and recoat. Twice if necessary.
I have refinished my wood garage doors, sanded and applied Minwax Polyurethane. I cannot find it in any of the big box stores and I need another quart to apply another coat. Can I apply "One Coat Polyurethane" over my nearly complete job?
Yes, As long as you lightly sand it first. 220 grit should be good.
Please tell us you didn't ruin all your precious work with this last minute coating. I did twice, 4 years ago and yesterday, thinking I could work it out with more experience. Serious mistake. Brush marks, discoloration, peeling, bubbles, tacky overnight at 24+ Celsius (75+ F) under 40% RH. Prep was done meticulously twice.
Hi, i think you may be able to help me solve an issue using fast dry oil based poly... i make statues using a 3d printer and they come out pretty smooth,but as with all 3d prints they have layer lines.. i have used epoxy resin which is okay but no matter how many times i use it i get areas that r high and some areas epoxy moves off completely during curing... to day i tried poly oil based and i waited till each coat was tacky then brushed on another coat... i also tried dipping and brushing on and letting them hang to dry... i get high and low areas nd some runs which of coarse need to be sanded before i can paint... Do you have a beter way i can do this using poly? maybe if i buy it in spray can and apply 3 light coats an hour apart may leave me with a consistent poly thickness i can sand over quickly with some 400 grit and paint... What are your thoughts on a possible remedy for my issues... I make a lot of these and time is money... so instead of spending an hour sanding to eliminate highs and lows..it would be great to just go over it in 5 mins preparing poly coat for paint... thanks for your help... Ps i do also have a paint sprayer i use for cars etc.. but i never mixed poly before... i am sure it would need a thinner of some kind... thanks again
When I was at Menards today I saw triple thick polyurethane spray. Maybe you can try that?
@@AlleyPicked is this a minwax product? water based? thax
@@roadstar499 it a varathane water based spray.
How do you apply polyurithane without leaving the lines of the brush?.
I use a good quality bristle brush and it doesnt leave brush lines. After brushing on the poly, it will self level. You can also use a foam brush.
Good Question Nancy!!!
OMGosh... I am so glad I found your video...
I need your help... Seriously...
I am refurbishing a 1972 vintage travel trailer. I can not use the oil
base urethane... it leaves a yellowish hue, and
I need a Crystal Clear Gloss... and Exterior The only thing I have found is this:
Varathane... Spar.... Urethane... Water basted... Crystal Clear Gloss
(green can)... by Rust-oleum...
I need something REALLLLLY Clean and High Gloss... Exterior...
and Water Based..
Do you think this is a good product... ?
Thank you for your help and thank you for sharing this great video...
Good questions. I am not an expert in what you are looking for but the exterior water based product you found sound like it will work. I have see videos on polishing polyurethane to a high gloss. I would do a little more research before jumping in but sounds like you are on the right track.
@@AlleyPicked
Thank you so much...
Very well done. May I ask how long did the first coat dry for?
Thanks for watching. I believe the first coat of the triple thick poly dried to the touch in a couple hours. That of course can vary depending on the temperature and humidity. It still takes more time after that to fully dry and cure. I think the can mentioned 24 hours to fully cure.
@@AlleyPicked the triple coat instructions say to let it dry for 48 hrs for light use only and 7 days to fully cure
Can the water based be used over oil based stain? I'm new to this. Thank you
As long as you lightly sand using 220 grit, the water based should be fine on top of the oil based poly.
Thanks for the response. I tried it and it worked really well. Since this was a first for me I wasn't sure how to do it. Probably the first coat wasn't thick enough. There is definitely a technique for this. Second coast I made it thicker and got pretty decent coverage and good enough for me. I agree that a third coat is probably needed for really good finish.
I’m currently doing a project where I’m using the Varathane oil stain under the Varathane triple coat. Does the oil stain eliminate the need to raise the grain for the water based finish?
OOOH kay so finally I know what the deal is, One Coat is WATER based.... I was hoping it was oil based and I could cut it when I wanted regular, or cut it lots when I wanted rub on... but got a heads-up when it said it is incompatible with Mahogany Red when the regular was not.
Any body try the water based minwax one coat over oil based gel stain? Looking for advice.
As long as the stain is dry, it will work fine.
I tried Varathane ultimate spar urethane oil based and did two coats but it yellowed over what is painted white. I have heard the oil base also yellows over time from being in the sun. What is your opinion on avoiding the yellowing. I am using this on cornhole boards so they will not always be in the weather.
Try water based polyurethane. The finish isn't quite as smooth but it's not too bad.It dries quick and doesn't yellow. Regular oil based poly doesnt look good over white as I have also seen.
@@AlleyPicked using water based.... does it make a difference spraying over brushing if brushing you sand lightly and apply a second coat? Thank you for your advice
Can is not super specific, how long did you wait to sand the first coat before applying the second?
I can't remember exactly but make sure it it completely dry to the touch. Drying time also depends on the temperature and humidity. From what I remember, it was dry in about an hour.
@@AlleyPicked thanks for the quick response! I have a farmhouse style table drying at the moment and the first coat looks exactly as you say. Want to apply a second coat but the table must be ready for large dinner this next weekend. Was afraid if I waited 24 hrs to sand and recoat, the plates would glue themselves down as we ate! Ill test a bit later tonight or maybe just wait till after the dinner. Thanks again for your response!
Have you tried any triple thick sprays?
I have not yet but I will plan on testing it out and doing a review early next year. Thanks.
How long did you wait in between coats?
Depends on the temperature and humidity. Generally the water based poly's dry quickly. The first coat dries the fastest. Usually dries in a couple hours. The first coat probably dries in an hour. They should not be tacky at all.
Great video! Definitely information I needed for my project (mid century, walnut veneer dining table). I picked up the Varathane Triple Thick.
I was told by the HomeDepot person to apply a 2nd coat to the table top. The coat on underside shows the brush marks, which I believe is because I was pretty conservative with the amount applied and it was tacky as I was applying it. When I applied the 1st coat to the table top I put it on much thicker and it is actually decently smooth; there are some clump spots though. I'll be applying the 2nd coat this week, but I'm torn between the grit to use.
The Varathane 'How to' video mentions 220. You show 320, but I saw another video saying 400. And, can I get away with an random orbital sander? Any advice?
Hi Doug. For a second coat, I think 400 is too high. You don't want to polish it. you want it to be a little abrasive so that the 2nd coat will have something good to stick to. I would probably use 220 but don't be too agressive. 320 should work good also but it might be a little too fine. If you use an orbital sander, then I would probably use the 320. A 220 disk on an orbital sander can rip through a finish pretty quickly. Good Luck! Tom
@@AlleyPicked Much appreciated... I'll experiment a little with the 220 and some elbow grease. Thanks again for the video. Keep'm coming. All the best and stay safe.
Hi there, what type of brush would you recommend to apply a triple thick Varathane on a black walnut dining table to avoid brush stroke marks knowing that the triple thick Varathane is very thick, also can I do the 3 to 1(spirits) on this type of product to have better/smoother finish?
First of all, I wouldn't use water based polyurethane on a dining table. I would use oil based polyurethane. 3 coats lightly sanded in between applied with a good quality bristle brush. I just dont think you will get nearly as smooth of a finish using the triple thick water based poly. Whatever you decide, it might be a good idea to test it on a small spot on the side of the table first.
@@AlleyPicked Thank's for your input would you recommend a specific name/brand from HD? all I want is to (protect / waterproff)the table but I DON'T like shine finish thats why I preffert Matte/Flat.
@@kikeperdomo1735 HD near me only sells Varathane products. I like the Minwax Satin sheen oil based poly. I suppose the varathane would be fine but I do not know for sure.
Can I Use oil based polyurethane over water based stain?
Yes, as long as the water based finish is thoroughly dried and cured. Be sure to lightly sand with 220 sandpaper before applying oil poly.
@@AlleyPicked Is that the same with oil based poly over this water based poly? So disappointed in it right now.
@@Irish-Triplet If you are asking if you can cover water based poly with oil based, then yes.
@@AlleyPicked Yes, that's exactly the question. Thanks for your timely reply. Now I'll go from despondent about the "One Coat" nightmare (after working all day, sanding, and finishing). There's hope.
If you have to do 35 test than its probably just you my guy you have do keep a wet edge and work fast with it I always get a factory like finish
Does it yellow. over time.
I do not believe so. I normally use oil based which has a yellowish tint right out of the can. The water based it whiter in the can and from what I can see from my limited experience, it shouldn't yellow.
So which one is bettwr ??
ruclips.net/video/c1W0nLsV1G4/видео.html
I don't like the 1 coat Varathane. I thought I was doing something wrong until I looked it up. I'll stick to my normal, multi-coat, Varathane!
35 different tests?
I too came across the Minwax One Coat and figured I'd try it instead of the Minwax Polycrylic I'd used several times previously.
The finish is very streaky after 3hrs of drying time so I'm going to have to sand & apply a second coat of "One Coat."
This "One Coat" claim is complete b.s.
Anything can be one coat -- just not a good "one coat" :-)
Used this product on an old sanded down piece of furniture. Have to say even after 2 coats still looks like crap. Will have 2 sand down and start over. Also product is beyond terrible for horizontal surfaces. Fair bit of running because it's much thinner than oil based.
Most people agree that this stuff is garbage. A few people tell me I'm crazy and they love it. I just think they must own stock in the company.
One step Varathane does not mean one coat. It says so on the can. Just about all finishes need at least 2 coats.
...actually the can says "...or a second coat is desired". It does not say that 2 coats are necessary. Wouldn't that contradict the product name? It's called "One coat polyurethane".
@@AlleyPicked Mine is called Varathane,One Step Stain & Polyurethane.Made by Rustoleum.At least 2 coats is always desired
That is a different product. That is similar to Minwax polyshades. This video is about polyurethane only. It does not have stain mixed in it.
So the secret to a satisfactory finish is to.. follow the directions on the can? Nice, nice.
Not at all. Did you watch the video? :-)
I followed directions on the can. Looks terrible. LOTs of brush strokes dried in. Used a good quality brush. I'll try the 320 grit now. Will be getting Oil based from now on.
Are you serious? Shellac is a chemical compound that slowly reacts to poly compounds. These two surfaces will repel each other and the poly will fall off.
I don't believe you are correct. As long as the shellac is unwaxed, the poly will not fall off. According to my experience and some google searches you can do this.
@@AlleyPicked For several years I worked for a coatings company. They would not warrent any combination of shellac and poly or sanding sealer and poly. This was especially the case with floor finishes. I personally was involved with a number of floor finish failures where the applicator did not read label directions or listen to store sales people in this mater. Usually, in a busy home, the poly would flake off in traffic areas, in a couple years. Unless somehow the chemistry has been changed, this is a bad application practice.
Sort of like the 1 coat alot, harder for a dumbass like me to accidently sand through it before the 2nd layer.
The Minwax One Coat Polyurethane is a disaster. Brush marks, discoloration, peeling, bubbles, tacky overnight at 24+ Celsius (75+ F) under 40% RH. Prep was done meticulously twice. Relatively high VOC, dries fast to a horrible finish no matter your skill or quality of tools. Serious mistake I did twice, 4 years ago and yesterday, thinking I could work it out with more experience. Also it is not water based, but has a glycol/alcohols (butoxy, ethoxy, methoxy and propanols) base so is water cleanup.
I figured it out. It's crap. It dries too fast. It's a pain in the ass. Better to use an oil base and get a better finish. I have an old can of Cabot polyurethane that takes longer to dry, but less trouble in the long run.
One coat guaranteed of course applying it over a sanded sealer coat …
one coat is a joke, and "gloss" is hilarious, it's neither, but the worst part is if there is a drip or puddle, it never seems to dry and loves to stick to anything that has ever been coated with the same poly even weeks later, resulting in a ruined piece of work, f that sh.. garbage
Well no shit
Lol
Varathane triple coat is useless ! It turn out be thick yellow cover 😡all my money wasted
That's unusual. How did you apply it? I just used it a couple days ago and it worked out ok.
As an actual pro, theyre actually very good.
Just like paint, theres many choices many finishes, some are chosen for purpose and some are chosen By owners preference.
Im an old school-time tested is better than new latest an greatest, when you e been doing it as long as myself, you e had enough and do not react well to lies or being dicked around
I find them to be amazing products if used right thanks ! @varathane and @minwax