Ex mechanic but still bamboozled how to do this job until I came across this vid. You will not find a more clearer or clever method than this from a DIY point of view - Excellent!
Amazing. I just change transmission fluid and filter myself after watching this video. Exactly how he instructed. So so easy with no problem at all. Big thank you as I saved £350 labour easily.
Hi, I really appreciate your comment! I try really hard to make my videos show every step so that you can do the job yourself by watching just the one video! 😊
UPDATE - Technically, you should carry out the final fluid check and drain off any excess fluid with the engine running (not stopped as shown in the video). Thanks to John Yun and others that raised this point! AMOUNT OF OIL THAT CAN BE DRAINED & REFILLED - The transmission that features in this video doesn't have a drain plug in the torque converter. Hence, the amount of fluid that can be replaced is less. If your car doesn't have a torque converter drain plug, it is possible to drain more fluid by disconnecting the fluid lines that run to the oil cooler but I don't do this, as it isn't the standard procedure and hence, it isn't in the video. The transmission in my car is at 105k miles, still runs as new and I have always serviced it as shown in this video. However, some other Mercedes cars do have the drain plug and if you have the option, you should drain it, as it allows you to replenish more of the fluid (more effective fluid change). You might have to turn the engine (in normal direction of rotation) by turning the crankshaft pulley with a large socket / bar (if unsure how, make sure you have read up on how to do this before attempting!). Hope this helps! Thanks, RMR
if for instance my gearbox do have a torque converter drain plug an i drain oil from it as well, should i just refill oil through main gearbox oil drain plug or fill some oil seperatelly in to the torque converter too?
@@1945Aleksandr Hi, Yes, you put the torque converter plug back in. Then fill the gearbox as normal through the drain plug. When you start the car and step the box through the various positions (as shown in the video - P, D, N etc), it will fill the torque converter. You will then be able to go back under the car and top up the fluid level. Hope that makes sense! Thanks, Phil
The engine might heat up faster if you rev it around 2-3k rpms like when you warm it up for the smog checks. (10 minutes for full heat of cats and engine)
By far the best video explaining this, because you're not just saying do this and do that, you're showing us novices what we need to look out for that experienced people just take for granted! Superb!!
Great video, I watched it just for entertaining purposes! The information offered is priceless and the fact that you explain it for the normal DYI’ers adds even more value to it. Keep up the great work!
Thanks! If you haven't seen it, you might find my "Black Death" video interesting, as it was made in a similar style... ruclips.net/video/HV0XCpN76cg/видео.html
You should put a tap or screwdriver up the drain plug to knock out the overflow “snorkel” to allow all the oi” to drain before removing the sump plate ....
@kfor6631 Thanks that's a good tip! In fact, I now do it that way. I have an updated video where I do a few things differently (now with more experience), It's here if you're interested: ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.html Thanks, Phil
🔥 I Just Brought Out an UPDATED Video! 👉 ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.html What's NEW about it? 🎥 NOW in 4k! 🔧 SHOWS How-To Drain the Torque Converter! 🔨 CLEARER instructions on How-To Top Up and Achieve the Correct Fluid Level! 🙌 EVEN MORE Hints and Tips That Will Help You! 😎
Thank you so much for this. I did my car yesterday following your instructions. I used a magnetic spirit level on the underside of the sump, was able to dislodge the pipe inside with a screwdriver to get most of the fluid out before removing the sump pan. I used a small oil pump I had bought from Lidl and the pipe fitting you recommended. A very satisfying experience, which I wouldn't have been able to do without your excellent video.
Wow, thank you so much for your feedback and for the extra info about the Lidl pump. I have heard about people using these, I think I might need to get one for next time I do the job! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide You are very welcome Phil and by pure coincide, the fatter of the two pipes on my pump was exactly the right size for the M12 x 1.5 fitting!
Great video, well done in terms of detail and step, very clear and concise explanation. Glad to have found this video, I'll surely do my own trans after having to pay almost double than what it used to be. The fill kit setup you presented is well made and easy to acquire.
Thanks for your comment! 👍😎 Yes, it's a little time consuming but as you say, the service is becoming more expensive, so if you've got the time, worth giving it a go! Thanks, Phil
Enfin une superbe vidéo pour le particulier qui désir vidanger sa boite de mercedes sans utiliser toutes les machines de garage. Merci Merci à force de cherché j'ai trouvé cette vidéo génial et astucieuse !
Great video. This whole "fill and check through the drain" had me wondering what the heck was going on. Your video makes it understandable and easy to do. Changing the engine oil was already a huge mess. LOL So I wanted to check on how to do the transmission properly. About the ones without a torque converter drain plug, I'm sure you could do with this, what I do with GM cars, where you just fill it, run it a bit, then drain it again, then refill it, to replace more fluid. Definitely a little more costly, but you do get more old fluid out. I watched another video before this one. It pointed out that when you drain the fluid, you can push that white plastic level piece up into the pan, to allow it to drain more, before dropping the pan. After watching this, now I have a better idea of how to make a took for filling it. Thank you.
Hi, great that the video helped with your tranny fluid change! Good point about flushing out with some fresh oil and redraining. Definitely an option for those concerned about getting a full fluid change. Yep, you are right, it is possible to push up the fill tube and drain more fluid before dropping the pan, making it less messy! I think I would do it this way in the future... Thanks for your comments and sharing your experience! Cheers, Phil
De rien ! je viens de réaliser mon kit grâce à toi , il se visse en lieu et place du trou de vidange du carter de boite sur ma Mercedes classe E 280 CDI, un petit robinet, un tuyau, relié à une boite tube qui s'ouvre par le haut vissé avec joint (tube PVC 100) sur le couvercle également une valve de roue, un tuyau intérieur qui sort a l'extérieur vers le robinet et boite, pour faire monter l'huile installé dans le tube (1l ) je branche le compresseur sur la valve avec un manomètre et il me reste à appuyer sur le manomètre et l'air comprime la boite et fait sortir l'huile en pression et le robinet comme pour toi me permet de couper afin d'éviter que l'huile ressorte lors du remplissage de ma boite. Pour info utilise un tuyau PVC plomberie de 100 également pour boucher un raccord PVC avec couvercle et joint qui se dévisse, et à l'autre extrémité un bouchon aussi en PVC de 100. Encore merci pour ta vidéo, Amicalement Philippe
Salut @philippe4593, on dirait que tu as fait du bon travail dans la construction de ton kit ! Et cela vous sera de nouveau utile la prochaine fois que vous ferez le travail. Merci pour votre commentaire et ravie que la vidéo vous ait aidé ! Bravo, Phil
I found your video extremely helpful however instead of a hand pump I simply drilled a hole in the top of the new fluid container fitted it with a half inch poly tube drilled another smaller hole and use my air compressor to pressurize the container it worked great
@@bigbruno56 hi, I believe the part you are talking about is the overflow pipe that fits just inside the drain plug (I think I call it a snorkel in the video, didn’t know the correct term for it at the time!). Anyway, it is really important but if you are filling the transmission from the bottom and then doing the level check, it is the overflow pipe that allows you to set the level correctly. Effectively, you fill from the bottom, warm up the transmission, remove the drain plug and any fluid that is above the level of the overflow pipe will run back out. There’s a good write up about it here: www.youcanic.com/wiki/mercedes-7229-7-speed-transmission-check-fluid-level If you want to remove the overflow pipe, my understanding is that there is a special tool / drift that allows you to do so. I’ve never done it this way, but here’s a link to the info. mbworld.org/forums/attachments/e-class-w212/417964d1537904979-service-207-coupe-212-sedan-automatic-transmission-oil-pan.pdf Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@bigbruno56 Hi, to be honest I've never done it this way. My gut feel is that it isn't a good idea because the snorkel is a plastic piece and therefore, is quite light, so I imagine it would float around inside and maybe get caught up in something? I know it seems like a pain but if you buy the pan gasket and new bolts, you can go ahead and drop the pan and this would definitely be the safer option. Thanks, Phil
@@bigbruno56 Hi, if you were planning on doing a full transmission fluid change, the minimum amount you would normally change is 5L (for cars like mine that didn't have a torque converter drain plug). If you are able to completely change the fluid, then it can be up to around 7L. So, two comments really. 1) Hardly any fluid has been changed, so the work that you have had done isn't a full fluid change / service 2) I don't want to alarm you because I have zero experience of using slip stop in transmissions but I would never, ever use anything but the recommended fluid in my Mercedes transmission. They are pretty much bullet proof if serviced correctly with the right fluid and filters etc. You didn't mention in your previous messages that your transmission wasn't working properly? Were you having problems with it, hence the slip stop? BTW, Mercedes transmissions can give the feeling that they are slipping (engine revs and the drive doesn't engage fully) if the fluid is low. Hope this helps! Thanks, Phil
@@bigbruno56 okey dokey, sounds like you know what you’re doing! 👍 and sometimes it is a case of keeping these old cars running. RUclips is very international, nice to have a viewer from Scotland, I’m in Yorkshire but you may have gathered that from the accent! 😁 cheers, Phil
No probs, hope it helps! BTW, a few buyers have mentioned using an inexpensive electric pump that they bought from Aldi for this job (probably available elsewhere - Amazon, Ebay etc). Not sure of the details of it but might be a good alternative. Although, I must say, I find the hand suction pump really useful for all sorts of jobs since I got it, so it is a good addition to the garage. Also, you would probably still need an adaptor of some kind into the sump outlet. Thanks, Phil
If your car has a torque converter drain plug (not all of them do!) then yes! I did a vid on how to do that: ruclips.net/video/oLjx6kV8MEo/видео.html Also, an updated video on the full job that also includes the torque converter and lots of other things that I learned along the way... ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.html Thanks, Phil
I stumbled upon your video today again and I forgot to mention you need to keep the engine running while fixing the oil level. The oil should start dripping then you can close the plug. Other than that it was cool.
Thanks for your comment! As it happens, I stopped the car, checked it immediately (as shown in the video) and haven't had any problems... so I don't think it amkes a huge difference. It's a while ago now and I "think" I stopped the engine so that people could hear what I'm saying in the video? 😂 BUT Yes, you are 100% correct that technically, you should level check and top up with the engine running. Thanks, Phil
Hi, they were M6 x 40mm cap heads. TBH, for the job they are doing, they seem a bit long, you would get away with 30mm or 35mm long bolts. Just make sure you use Metric coarse (which are basic metric bolts) as the pitch of the thread is 1mm, which is what you need. Thanks, Phil
One of the best DIY vid; very very informative with details and cost saving techniques. I subscribed because I would like to see more of your vids on Mercedes 722.9 as well as on my corvette race car
Thank you very much for taking the time to comment and for your kind feedback! I still have my Mercedes that has the 722.9 transmission in it, so I'm sure more videos will follow! If your vehicle, happens to have a Mercedes diesel engine in it, then you will find quite a few videos on this on my homepage too. Corvette race car sounds fantastic, I take it you are into your motorsport? I don't have one of those yet but a Corvette is on my Car "Bucket List"! Thanks, Phil
Hi, glad you liked the video and thanks for your comment! A lot of these cars don’t have a dipstick for checking the gearbox oil level and the only access point for draining and refilling is the drain plug. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Perfect tutoring , explained very clearly and concisely , I know understand what is involved , as I was quoted £450.00 for the gearbox service. I will buy the parts And ask my mechanic to replace them. Look forward to your next videos.
Very good video on the procedure but most helpful was the re-fill apparatus and your description on how to make it. Question is what did Andy Horsfal make and do we need to get one make also OR is everything in your diagram all we need to buy and assemble to re-fill the transmission? Thanks again for a great video.
Hi, thanks for your message & sorry for any confusion. If you buy all of the things that I described in the kit, then that should allow you to refill the gearbox. Andy made me an adaptor on the lathe that screws into the gearbox pan (sump plug hole) but you can buy them and it appears in the kit (similar to item no. 1). He just wanted to practice his machining skills and I promised him a mention if he made the part for me!
Have you included a note that I’ve missed re; stepping through the transmission P-D-R to circulate the fresh fluid? I saw a reference to it as being in the video but didn’t see. My model is 2014 W212/3 E300 Hybrid
Hi, I have limited connection at the mo, so can’t easily go back and watch the vid but you are correct, after changing the fluid, it is a good idea to start the car, keep your foot on the brake and then step it though the various gears circa 10 secs in each one. Your car may have the 9G-tronic at that age? If so, the service is likely to be slightly different to what I showed. I have a 9G now but haven’t had to service it yet…. Thanks, Phil
Thanks Phil, for interest my car was assembled here in Thailand so is somewhat out of step with European/US models and has 7G transmission. Designated E300 blutec hybrid AMG Dynamic however it doesn’t use Blue 🤔 Enough of my ramblings, many thanks for your down to earth approach to vehicle maintenance and improvisation of easily obtainable items to save buying service tools that usually cost the earth.
@@barnstormin That’s really interesting about your car, I had no idea you could get a “hybrid” spec like that in other countries! Thanks very much, always trying to find ways for home diy’ers to get the job done to a good standard in a budget! 👍
Hi Phil, Just out of interest, when I finally got around opening my MB EPC WIS/ASRA (which I should have done earlier) and started reviewing all the stuff I have clearly forgotten I note that the 7 G-Tronic on my car is actually 724.208 unique to Hybrids I'm assuming and the EPC makes ordering spares easier. There doesn't appear to be any difference in the hybrid ATF & Filter method and the only references to Hybrid is basically, 'Don't mess with any orange bits! Which I steer well clear of anyhow but if you or readers have any specific comments on Hybrid transmissions I'd like to hear them in particular references the torque converter drain which, until I get under and see if there's anything in the configuration that prevents draining as in non Hybrids, I need to research further.
What about removing the return line to the transmission pan so that you can flush out any transmission fluid left over in any trans coolers. Also what about the torque converter Is it possible to drain that as well? They usually have a cover which can be removed to reveal a drain bolt.
Hi, thanks for your comments! I didn't disconnect the return lines because that wasn't part of the procedure that I decided to follow. I suppose I was trying to keep it simple. I have heard of it being done, it just comes down to personal preference. Yes, you are correct, if your torque converter has a drain plug, then you should drain it as well. Please see a comment that I pinned to the top of the video comments board for more info! Thanks, Phil
Great information, i am planning to do the same for my c200 w205 2015 and only owning it for 2 months (so don't know much about Merc). this will be my first time doing this, so i am a bit nervous, but i am a DIY person, so i am planning to go ahead. Can i check with you what socket/size do you use for the 6 pan bolts please? Thanks very much
Hi, I'm pretty sure that it was an E11 torx socket. I'll link to a set here, so that you can see what I mean. amzn.to/3nPHauC BTW, I have done an updated video, which from comments etc, vieweres are saying is better, more information and clearer. It's here if you're interested: ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.html
Hi, in the diagram at 14:12 in the video, you can see all of the equipment that you need for a filler set up, including a valve (Item no. 4 on diagram). They are all listed in the description. I used a different valve in my video because I just had it lying around but if you need to buy one, the one listed in the description will be cheaper for you. I had a friend make an adaptor that goes into the sump for me on a lathe at work but then later realised you can buy them really cheap (item no.1 on diagram). Hope that helps! If you have any other questions, just let me know! 👍
I have a 2007 E350 Sport W211 with a 722.9 7 speed transmission. I've serviced everything on the car myself except the transmission which I had the Mercedes Dealership do a year ago. I can't seem to find the dealer port for the trans in the engine bay so i can check the level or the color. Please Help!
Hi, one of the limitations of this transmission design is that most of the versions (if not all, I haven't checked every version) don't have a dipstick or any other means of checking the fluid level and colour from the engine bay. Mine certainly doesn't. You set the level when refilling it (from underneath) after a service and then don't check again until the next service. I'm not entirely comfortable with this either but it seems that is the modern way! Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Hi, Thanks for your comment! I'm not 100% sure what you are asking but I think you are asking how much fluid goes back into the gearbox? If so, I put 5L in initially, then I went through the warm up / priming sequence and then added more. The exact amount that you put back in will depend on the version of the gearbox that you have. for example if you are able to drain the torque converter. I hope this helps! Cheers, Phil
I saw another video where someone filled through the trans dip stick hole then cycled through the gears when idling. Do you only need to do some of that if you drain the torque converter?
Hi, my understanding is that the 7G-tronic transmission doesn't have a transmission level dipstick. Hence, the unusual filling and level checking process. The earlier 5G-tronic did have the facility to add a dipstick, so maybe in the video you mentioned, it was one of those? Regarding the torque converter, it fills automatically from the tranny sump when you start the car, then you just top up the level (through the drain plug). Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Hi, thank you for your comment but please see the comment that I pinned to the top of this "comments" section, where I address this point. Some of the early 722.9 7G-tronic transmissions didn't have a drain plug on the torque converter. Cheers, RMR
Including filling the transmission through the drain plug? I thought this was really weird but maybe not if other manufacturers do the same... Yeah, technically, I should have left the car running. I stopped the engine and checked the fluid level straight away but as you say, ideally, should have eft it running (I shut it off so that people could hear me speak but should have done a voice over during editing instead!).
Hi, thanks for your comment, glad you liked the video! 👍 No, I didn't replace the plastic fill pipe. I have read a lot of write ups and I haven't come across anyone replacing theirs but some people probably do! Apparently, if you are just doing a fluid change (not dropping the pan and changing the internal filter), you can "pop it up", which allows more of the fluid to drain and then put it back to its original position again but I've never done this myself. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Great, glad the info helped! I’m always measuring car threads with vernier callipers, thread gauges and looking them up in a Zeus book. Maybe I should do a vid on it! 🤔
Hi, Febi Bilstein is my favourite after market brand and I look for their products first when I’m searching. I’ve used them lots and always been happy with the quality. Fuchs Titan is my fluid of choice and I’ll always buy in preference if I can get it! I’ve used it in my Merc gearbox for the last couple of fluid changes and it’s worked flawlessly. So, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with either of those brands. 👍 cheers, Phil
I like this video of yours very much, it explains the technique of how to change the gearbox oil and filter very well. However i think you should also mention to people that unless you also drain the oil in the torque converter as well, you are only really doing half of an oil change as the torque converter holds about 4 litres on its own, so you are only mixing old oil with new oil ?
Hi Alan, glad you liked the video and thanks for the comment! You are correct about the torque converter. Early cars like mine don't have a drain plug but a lot of the later models did. I provided an update to cover this in a comment that I have pinned and in the description. Unfortunately, I can't easily add anything new to the video... Cheers, Phil
Hi great video thank you! You put in 5 litres of ATF, but everywhere I’ve read about this states its 9 litres? Can you please explain this as I have a 7 speed as well?
Hi Graham, the most I have seen stated as a total refill volume is just over 7L, never as high as 9L, so I would say that 9L is definitely incorrect. The reason you see variation on the 722.9 transmission from around 5L refill to as high as 7.5L is because the transmission design evolved over time. It always had the same max fluid capacity but Mercedes improved the ability to drain it down over time. On later versions a plug was added to the torque converter, so you could drain it as well. Some owners also detach the pipes that go to the transmission oil cooler, so that they can change more of the fluid. If you check out this link, some members of the Merc forum have attached links to various documents (including how to drain the torque converter if the transmission in your car has a drain plug on it). mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w209/471925-wis-doc-722-9-torque-converter-transmission-drain.html Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@grahamsmith7407 no probs! yep, my understanding is the the 7 speed (7G tronic) is the 722.9. Then it moved to a 9 speed (725.0) and the predecessor was the 5 speed (722.6) Cheers, Phil
I also had another question you said you put 5 into the sump but the transmission calls for 9 and 1/2 quartz. I did drain the torque converter as well. should I put some fluid in the sump and run it for a brief period of time to fill the torque converter??? And then top off?
Hi, my model of the transmission doesn't have the torque converter drain plug and so I wasn't able to change as much of the fluid as you will. Yep, that is exactly what I would recommend: fill the sump to the level (when it starts to run back out of the level tube), run the transmission and step it through each of the gear positions, stopping for 5-10secs at each position (Park, drive, reverse etc), you will probably feel the drive engage, with your foot on the brake. Then check the level and do a top up. Of course, you will also have the running up to temperature and final level check to do too. Hope that helps, thanks!
Is it possible to fill via the ATF dipstick rather than mess with that whole plumbing store set up? I have the dipstick from MB to measure the fluid level and a new filler cap w/red locking tab once I’ve finished. This would be less expensive and much easier although maybe a bit more time-consuming introducing the new fluid. Never seen it done this way though so wanted to ask first. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Hi, I was aware of the dipstick that you can buy but I'm pretty sure it isn't available as an option on all of the 722.9 transmission iterations. To answer your question: It should be possible to fill through the dipstick but you may be breaking new ground as I couldn't find any hits when I searched for it. I don't think it would be my preferred option as it presents a couple of problems: 1) As you say, filling would be slow. 2) You would fill down the tube and then need to use the same tube to do the level check, so fluid still in the tube may foul the dipstick. Since I was underneath the car anyway (to drop the pan and change the internal filter etc), I found it easy to fill through the bottom. If you do decide give it a try, please let me know how you get on! Thanks, RMR
Good detail on filling method. BUT!! You switched off the engine and allowed more fluid to drain out. I am sure Mercedes state the engine must be running, with oil at 45 deg. ... then you re-fit sump plug ... THEN switch engine off. Your method would not fill gearbox to correct level.
You are correct, when i changed the oil on my ML280 i did exactly that, any excess oil will overflow via the overflow pipe when up to temperature, then you replace the sump plug when the system level is full. Incidentally you also need to drain the torque converter and also the oil cooler and associated pipe work, you will be surprised how much additional oil lies in this area or you will find that you are actually only renewing 70% of the oil.
Hi there, if the oil drains out as soon as you take the sump plug off, does that mean it was overfilled in the first place as the level is above the snorkel/overflow pipe?
Hi, no, not necessarily. The final fluid check and level adjustment on the transmission is often done with it running, meaning some of the fluid will be in circulation. When draining the transmission, it is usually switched off and been sitting for a while. Just an estimate but I would expect up to 200 - 300ml to come out of the drain plug when you take the sump plug out. Hope that helps! Happy to answer any question you have if I can! Cheers, Phil
Thank you, you're absolutely right. I used to stop the engine and then quickly do the level check and this always worked well for me. but now I have an updated video where I do quite a few things slightly differently... just with experience . ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.htmlsi=uq75v1R-AOjeduhy Thanks, Phil
Hi m8 top video I have a 12v oil pump I got from lidl used it before down dip sticks on auto box's and engine oil do you think it would work on the merc box instead of the hand pump ps my ml320 has no dip so I would be doing same as you Alan
Hi Alan, Sorry for the slow reply. Yep, I have had a lot of comments in the past from people who prefer to fill through the sump plug using a small pump. So it should work! Might be easier / less messy if you have a small valve screwed into the sump outlet but not essential. Hope that helps! Cheers, RMR
I don't have the service information on my 2009 Mercedes-Benz S550 4matic. My oil pan has a leak. If I do a Transmission pan service will it damage my Transmission? I'm very worried about that......
Hi, if your pan is leaking, it is almost certainly the rubber pan / gasket seal. These transmissions are sensitive to fluid level, so if you are losing fluid, it needs to be sorted or you will start to get problems. If you have a little too much or too little fluid, it won’t damage your transmission but it will start affecting how it operates. I’ve actually created a much more detailed video now, give it a watch and you should hopefully gauge how confident you feel about doing the work diy. ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.html Maybe get some quotes from local Mercedes Benz specialists and then you can make a decision on it. Hope that helps, thanks, Phil
Thanks! The overflow pipe in my oil pan is white, it has just become a little discoloured over time and maybe looked a little yellowy in the video. Usually, if you just leave in place whatever overflow pipe is already there, then you won't go far wrong (although I hear Mercedes do update them sometimes).
Hi.I ve got transmission oil cleaner (Liqui Moly).Shall I use it or it may make gear shift worse ? OM642 with 190 k miles and probably oil replaced about 70 k miles ago in MB Salisbury .Shall i replace oil from torque converter too ? Thanks.
Hi, I've never used a transmission cleaner. My concern would be getting it all out again so that it doesn't interfere with and degrade the new transmission oil. These tranny's are difficult to drain without a certain amount of extra disassembly. Personally, I would try a transmission fluid and internal filter change before resorting to a cleaning fluid. Yes, if it is possible to drain the torque converter, I would do it. Here is a video that shows how to do it. ruclips.net/video/oLjx6kV8MEo/видео.html Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Is there a reason that you didnt drain oil from torque converter? It should be done in oil change? I think you leave at least 2l old dirty oil in if you dont drain torque converter.
Thanks for your comment! Yes there is, early 722.9 7G's didn't have torque converter drain plugs. I have tried to address this point on the comment board for this video by creating a "sticky / pinned" comment at the top and adding some info in the description. If you want to read more about it, here is a link to a discussion on a Benz forum: www.benzworld.org/threads/cant-find-722-9-torque-converter-drain-plug.2118665/ Cheers, Phil
Do you put any cain of glue to the pan gasket , because when I change my transmission oil I have a lot licking oil and I look you video and I don't see any glue putting on you pan gasket o what exactly I doing wrong?
Hi, No, you don't use any glue. If you did, then it might lead to the gasket leaking. So, you need to do the opposite, make sure the edge of the pan is really clean, with no oil residue, as this will help the gasket stay in place. Also, if the new gasket was folded up in a packet, then it sometimes takes a bit of work to straighten it out etc. The new gasket should have some rubber location lugs on it that fit into holes on the pan. These also help keep it in place, I mention / show them at 7:34 in the video. Hope that helps and good luck with it! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide sadly I did it and when I was trying to put the last bolt it broke out on my and a lot of oil came out , and now I ordered new bolts , and a new pan gasket again and a they sooner I get those parts , I gonna fix it but now a don't now how to take off that glue whitout harmed the trasmission , I used the optimum black high flex gasket maker, and I'm very thankful for you help, I really. really appreciate it!!!
@@saulpaz8857 Happy to help! You can remove the old sealant from both surfaces using a green scouring pad amzn.to/3bxDyJm and some brake cleaner. It is time consuming but this wont damage the surface of the bottom of the gearbox or the pan. Take your time and take care to make sure old sealant etc doesn't get into the gearbox. You can also use a plastic implement of some kind (like plastic trim removal tools) to scrape the surface. Don't use metal tools because if you damage the surface, the new gasket won't seal properly. Were you using a torque wrench to put in the pan bolts? If not, then you really should, helps to prevent bolt breakage. Hope this helps and please let me know how you get on! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide i very thankful for you knowledge ,as soonest I get everything put together , the right way , thanks to you im gonna get my car back , and a really, really appreciate everything to you thank you very much!!!
you forgot to drain the torq converter. You should always drain it on 7g transmissions. you have to take down the extra oil pump and turn the engine until you find the drain plug on the torq converter. 10nm is the torq on the bolts :) Engine should be at running temp befor draining it :)
Hi, thank you for your comment, just to reply to your points: Early 722.9 7g's didn't have torque converter drain plugs. I previously added a comment on this video and made it a "sticky" where I clarified this point. Also, you can read about it here on the Benz forum, you will get lots of hits if you search for it: www.benzworld.org/threads/cant-find-722-9-torque-converter-drain-plug.2118665/ Some owners detach the pipes to the oil cooler to drain more fluid but I couldn't find an official procedure for this, so I stuck to the standard fluid change process. I used 8Nm for my pan bolts as this is the number I found in my documentation. It could be that it has been updated (procedures, fill levels etc do get updated from time to time by MB) but rest assured that 8Nm worked for me with no leaks. I think running up to temperature before draining may be a personal choice, there are plenty of other people who advocate leaving the car to sit overnight and then draining it when it is flat cold. I don't think there is a right or wrong way, or if there is it will probably make minimal difference, as the fluid is pretty thin and drains very readily. Thanks, Phil
I'm with you on this one! I don't know why they use such weak bolts and the torque spec is really low. I'm sure I had at least one of the new ones break but thought maybe I had a bad bolt or two, otherwise I would have mentioned it in the video!
Hi Steven, the service interval is 40,000 miles for the 7-Gtronic gearbox. From 2010 onwards (some people call this the 7G+), it moved up to every 70,000 miles. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Hi, the part number is: N 007603 012102. I usually buy from Autodoc, but they have had some problems delivering to the UK since Brexit (might be resolved now?). If you do go on Autodoc using the part number, you can then click on the details of the item and it will confirm which vehicles it fits (this is a really useful feature even if you don't end up buying from them). Also, using the part number, I found some on ebay for a couple of £. I have bought Vaico in the past and found them to be good. Hope this helps! Any further Q's please just ask! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide BTW, do you also have a video for drain the torque converter? Mine has a drain plug but the position is at an odd angle and hard to reach with ratchet wrench
@@4hikers629 Hi, sorry I don’t have a video on that as my car doesn’t have the torque converter drain :-( However I have read that you need to turn the engine at the crank to bring the torque converter plug to the bottom. See this link: www.benzworld.org/threads/how-do-you-rotate-the-torque-converter-to-get-to-the-drain-plug.1642176/ Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Hi, I assume you are filling the transmission from the bottom using an attachment and a pump? The main reason I can think of that fluid would run straight back out is if the overflow pipe isn't fitted correctly. It fits directly above the drain plug and is like a little tube. As it is a few inches long, fluid should not flow back out of the transmission pan until the level is high enough to go above the top of the over flow pipe. Just for clarity, here is the piece I am talking about www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173929467890 and you can see it fitted on the inside of the transmission at 05:55 in the video. Hope that helps! If you have more questions, just let me know and I'll help if I can! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thank you, I gonna have to drain the fluid and put it back in . Can I also ask you one last question please, Why does the car goes in limp mode when I reach around 100mph and until I stop the engine and start it again, It has no power and the engine doesn't go about 3000rpm even if I drive with 30mph.(I have an S320 2006) Also I want to mention that when is hot it starts then dies right away, always starts from the second try. Thank you ! Have a nice day!
Great content, thanks! I have 2011 w212 E200 CGI with 5G-Tronic. You know if they have same Refilling adapter M12x1.5 (male thread) and my transmission is also call 722.9?
Hi, Good question that got me checking around a bit! Looks like they offered two auto transmissions on your model of car. The 5 speed, known as the 722.6 and the 7 speed, known as the 722.9. If your transmission is a 5-speed, then it is a 722.6 gearbox and the thread size for the adaptor is different, it is a M10x1.0 (male thread). Check out this website which may be useful to you. nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/ga/722646/21s/27/115/?chasis=212003D01 Also, maybe do some searches for a 722.6 transmission fluid change video as the procedure is likely to be slightly different. Sorry, I haven't worked on one of the 5 speeds before. Hope this helps! Cheers, Phil
I always do it cold because that way, all of the fluid is in the pan, if it has been running recently, you have to wait for it to drain down out of the tranny. Cheers, Phil
Hi, I never looked into it in too much detail. I knew my car needed the 236.14 and left it at that. Apparently from 2010, when Merc introduced the Stop / Start technology, they moved to the lower viscosity 236.15. If your car is in the 2010/2011 age range and you're not sure what fluid to use, you are best to call Merc with your VIN and query it. Hope that helps some... Thanks, Phil
Great video but I am totally confused by your comment "From mid-2010 onwards a 7G Tronic plus auto transmission was fitted and this one used blue transmission fluid. NOT FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO." I cant find anything on this type fluid can you please advise!
Hi Joe, Mercedes continued to develop the 7g-Tronic (722.9) transmission throughout its service life. From 2011 onwards with the introduction for Stop / Start technology, they changed the fluid type. If your car is pre 2011 / non start stop then there is some guidance on fluid in my video description. Post 2011 car or just interested, here's a link to a discussion on a forum: forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/722-9-transmission-fluid-change-questions.183783/page-2 Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Hi, it seems that Mercedes have changed the recommendation a few times for this gearbox, so there are lots of answers out there including a service at 40k, 50k and even 75k miles. However, they all say "or at 5 years". So, strictly speaking the transmission service is due according to age, if not yet due to mileage. Personally, I would be tempted to wait another year but that is down to personal choice. There is a good resource here that might help you decide lite.servicemercedes.co.uk/ess/pc/ Hope that helps!
Hi, thanks for raising this point because it is a good one! I did lots of research and it seems that on this car (with this gearbox), there isn't a way to drain the torque converter. Certainly I couldn't see a drain plug on it and that was backed up by research I did on the forums. However, other Merc gearboxes and many other manufacturers do provide a means of draining the torque converter. Basically, you are right, if it is possible to drain the torque converter, then you should as it will refresh more of the fluid during the oil change. The rest of the procedure as per the video stays the same. Thanks!
@@ReviveMyRide The correct method of changing the oil on any late clutched torque converter involves 'wasting' a complete oil change. it's impossible to effectively drain the oil out of the torque converter whilst it's still in the car, aswell as the heat exchanger etc... You should carry out a complete oil change as you have, run the car for a period of time or take it for a short drive when up to normal temperature, then drain all the oil and refill with new. This dilutes the old oil left in the torque converter mixing it with fresh stuff, if you are unable to extract all the oil out of the sump, you should remove the sump, in this case only replace the oil filter and gasket on the final fluid change. The torque converter can hold around 2ltrs of old oil, the most important part of automatic transmission oil are the friction modifiers, these control the slip properties of the clutches, if your oil is burnt (smells like burnt toast) that's another story. The Torsen diff in most VW Audi 4 wheel drives are notorious for tire scrub due to the friction modifiers failing in the oil of the diff, oil plays an ever increasing important roll in transmission, the additives are part of the transmissions' design, cheap oils can't be guaranteed to have the correct quantity of additives, this will shorten the life of the gearbox, I would ever only recommend OEM oils or their actual supplier. Now you can understand why transmission oil changes are so expensive!
You should drain it yes. Detach the oil pump by 3 bolts (8Nm), under the oil pump there is a d=3cm black cover, remove it, then rotate the engine in N until the M8 drain screw (10Nm, replace) of the converter appears. I had 3.8l in the Torque converter!!
Yes I did! Sorry if I didn't mention it in the video! Highly recommended to replace the bolts. They are made of aluminium alloy, not steel and they don't take very kindly to being reused, very prone to snapping during retorqueing (even though the torque is really low). Speaking of torque, a mini torque wrench really does come in handy to get the torque correct on tis job! Hope this helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide , I am getting ready to do this to my 2004 E500. I see some people and literature say to torque the new transmission pan bolts to 4 NM. Some other sources say to torque to 4 NM and then turn the bolt an additional 180 degrees. I really do not know which is correct for my car. Can you advise? Thank you. Tom
Love your videos keep them coming. Have you ever heard of a message error Pre safe functions limited. I got this message today on my 2014 E300 diesel hybrid ???? Please help. Thanks 👍👍
Hi, glad you like the vids and thanks for your comments! Regarding your query, this is the first time that I heard about this warning. I did some reading (imagine you have been doing some too!). Seems that the newer Mercedes car can "prepare for an accident" if you brake heavily or if certain sensors give feedback (or fail to). Found this interesting discussion on a well known forum, hope it helps! www.benzworld.org/threads/pre-safe-functions-currently-limited.2094274/
Thanks for taking the time to do these. I'm looking into a Metris van which uses the 7Gtronic plus. Did you not need to drain the torque converter? It has a drain plug as well. Probably only a few ounces so not that big a deal.
Hi Stuart, thanks for your post! Just had a look at Metris vans on google as I hadn't looked at them before, looks really nice! All of the variants of the 7G-tronic gearboxes are really good, so I'm sure you will like it! Yes, you are right, if your torque converter has a drain plug then you should use it, as you will get a better fluid change. Mine didn't have one, as it is an early model and the torque converter drain plug was added later. You may already be aware of this but just in case: The fluid type changed for the 7G-tronic plus (to 236.15 "blue" fluid) and the service intervals got longer. Thanks, Phil
Hi, As far as I know, they all need to be serviced! The gearbox that features in this video is the 7G-tronic (722.9) and should be serviced every 40,000 miles. Later gearboxes referred to as the 7G+ from circa 2011 onwards have a longer service interval of 70,000 miles. Hope this helps, you can find lots of info on the forums of mbclub.co.uk or mercedesclub.org.uk
Sorry, I haven't needed to do that before, so don't have any experience to share. I did find this video. It's a very LONG video but may help you! Thanks, Phil
Really useful video, procedure well explained in a calm logical manner, now confident to tackle this job on my e320 cdi w211. Looking forward to other vids
Thanks for posting! Great that you are planning to DIY the job :-) Exactly the reason why I do my videos! Good luck with it and if you have any questions, please just ask!
That oil cooler hose is actually supposed to be the point where a flush takes place. The cooler and Torque converter are holding the remaining 5 or so qts of fluid (as the pan only has about half of total fluid). Getting ready to do this job myself & have confirmed with updated MB service instructions and techs at 2 local dealerships that they do a complete flush on the 722.9 now. I do wonder if doing a fluid change like this every 20k mi would be comparable to doing the full flush every 40k mi (which is their service interval)
@@RothBeyondTheGrave Thanks for the additional info! I have done a couple of fluid changes like from the video and the gearbox always runs better for it but do like the idea of changing more / all of the fluid!
There isn't a filler plug. I know it seems a bit weird but I have come across this before on a VW Golf DSG autobox too, so I think it must be fairly common.,
Thanks John! You are right, I have updated a comment pinned to the top of the comment board with this additional info. My car / transmission runs fine but technically, it might be short a little bit of fluid. Cheers, RMR
Hi, thanks for your comment! I have seen that 4nm + 180deg is the recommendation but many people don't have a torque wrench that does that low and / or an angle gauge for the 180deg turn. 8Nm worked well for me, no leaks and no snapped bolts. Agree, the main plug is 22Nm, it does come up on the screen in the video in yellow letter when I am tightening it up. Thanks!
@@ReviveMyRide the issue is not the bolts but the gasket used for it. 4nm+180 is just right not to appy to much pressure on it and overtime causing leaks. As per the bolts holding the pan those are alu and need to ve replaced. This is for those people doing this, so they have the info. for low torque yoy can use a bicycle torque wrench or a digital torque adapter.
@@FinTra_ yep, exactly!!! The fancy pan bolts are designed to be one time use only just like the gasket else they'll brake off like in a video from FCP Euro.
Hi, this has been updated a few times by Mercedes and so, as you can imagine, people have slightly different opinions! My view: If your car is manufactured up to 2010, it has the "red fluid" 7G-tronic (as featured in this video), the service schedule is 38,000 miles or 5 years. If you have the later 7G-tronic made from 2010 onwards "Blue fluid", it is every 70,000 miles or 5 years. Hope that helps! Cheers, RMR
Hi, early cars didn't have the access port to allow the torque converter to be drained. But if you are interested, I recently released a video showing how to drain the torque converter (on cars that do have the access port) 👉 ruclips.net/video/oLjx6kV8MEo/видео.html Thanks, Phil
@@MrBlompod cool! 😎 obvs a full new 7G video out too where I give lots of extra tips and explain more. I suspect you know quite a lot about these trannys already. Comments and discussion is always welcome! 🙏 cheers, Phil
@@AroundTuit Thanx Phil I bought a beautiful 2014 W204 CDI 250 coupe only 45 thousand kilometres on it, it’s as new. Got a quote for a tranny service fuel filter and front brakes over 2500 dollars 🙄 I’m sure I can do it all myself with the help of your content. Thanks mate 😉
@@MrBlompod Sorry, replied with the wrong account above! Yeah, sounds like you have a really nice car there! $2500 is crazy money! In the UK, you can get it done by Mercedes Benz for £400 (about $500). Get a few quotes if you don't want to DIY it, I'm sure you can do a lot better. Maybe ask for a recommendation for a shop near where you live from www.benzworld.org/forums/ And actually, the DIY isn't too difficult but can be time consuming, make sure you have all of the tools, parts, materials before you start and allow the full weekend to do it, if you are a first timer. Thanks, Phil
Phil, quick question immediately after doing the transmission service the engine light came on. I used my OBDII reader, it says the oil temperature sensor is out, I have no idea where that is. Can you give me a little Direction?
Hi Tom, I haven't come across this problem before but have done a little bit of reading. Seems that there is a temperature sensor inside the gearbox. Also, there is a controller that communicates with it (and presumably does other functions too). I am happy to help you search for the answer though! Could you please tell me what fault code you are getting? Here is a link to a MB forum that touches on the issue: forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/auto-box-temperature-sensor-fault.60861/
@@tom1031000 I checked on the Mercedes forums, and they are saying the P0195 fault is: Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Malfunction (not powertrain). If so, this is good news because it is easy to get to and inexpensive to replace. Assuming you have got the same engine as featured in the video 3.0 vg diesel (OM642 engine), then the following diagram (item number 40 is the sensor) should help you locate and get a part number for the sensor. I would start by disconnecting the electrical connection from the sensor, cleaning it with electrical cleaner, checking the wire for obvious damage. If that all looks ok, replace the sensor. This is the sensor: tidd.ly/2Lr3JIg (but best to double check that it fits your car) This is the parts diagram: nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/m/642910/63h/15/105/?chasis=20932069M Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Your video is very well made including real good audio. It is very different from other DIY video. Thank you. Just wandering if it work for B200 CDI 2012, Model W246?
Hi, thanks, really appreciate your comment! :-) I did a bit of research and it looks like your car has a very different gearbox fitted to the one that features in this video. You will want to double check but it looks like your gearbox is the CVT 722.8 gearbox. I think my video will be good for "principles" of a gearbox fluid change but there will be a lot of details that are different. For example, it looks like you can fill your gearbox from the top, you can get a dipstick for your gearbox so that you can do the level check, of course it uses a different fluid etc. There will be other variables too. I did find some videos on RUclips for your gearbox, so if you search specifically for your gearbox type, you will hopefully find some more information specifically for your transmission. Hope this helps!
Thank you, I suspect W246 automatic transmission is different from w245 (which is the CVT 722.8 you mentioned). I am not sure. If you have infor, please help us owners of Diesel W246 (not W245) make a video. Cheers
Sounds good! thanks for your comment! Good to hear when someone decides to give it a go. I found it a little time consuming but not that difficult... 👍
Yes, it is 9L in total but very difficult to drain all of it. If you do the pan and the torque converter that would be about 7L. The standard Mercedes procedure would never drain all of it. Thanks, Phil
Hi my friend.. Im really struggling to find out information on my vito.. Would you know.. How I can change my transmission fluid.. I have a 2001 meacades vito petrol automatic year 2001 model 113..2ltr... I took the radiator off to repair and on the right side it has to cooler pipes which I assume are transmission fluid pipes with taking them off I lost fluid.. Now I assume this is transmission meaning gear fluid I'm not sure.. But I can't find anyone or anything that can explain where I refill or check fluid... All I can see on top is a blue plastic screw with a tiny hole.. Theres no dipstic.. I just want to know when I took off the radiator was these two pipes transmission fluid or something else and if so how do I refill.. I'm actually doing the van up and for over 40years of fixing and rebuilding had such a brain ache on a van.. The meacades manual is pretty useless... I've put a new water pump on.. And never want to do one ever again. It was very hard but done it... With no room to hardly get the serpinebelt on but did it in the end.. Anyway I would really appreciate it if someone anyone can explain to me what the two pipes I took off the radiator and if its transmission how the hell do I refill... Many thanks Paul
Hi Paul, sounds like you have been keeping busy! I haven't worked on one of these before but have done a bit of research to see if I can help. I'm sure you already know this but your version of the Vito is the W638, also known as the V class and the auto transmission is the ZF 4HP20. It does have a transmission oil cooler. See the following diagram. If you detached pipe 38 or 41, then will have lost transmission fluid. nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/3/fg/638014/50m/27/750/ There's a lot on the forums saying it is really important to use the right oil and the oil codes are: esso atf lt 71141 and mercedes benz a 001 989 2203. If you are topping up, you will probably want to use fluid from the main dealer but apparently Citroen run the same transmission and it is cheaper from them: Z000169756. Please double check the numbers above when you are purchasing, so make sure it is suitable for your transmission! From what I have read, the blue plastic plug you mentioned is where you fill the gearbox. Regarding filling & level check. The process is similar to in my video: With the level plug removed, fill through the top (the one with the blue plastic cap) until fluid starts to run out of the level plug. Put the plugs back in. Run the greabox up to temperature, step the gear selector through its various positions, then remove the level plug once again to drain off the excess. I found this guide which should hopefully help you, good luck with it! www.qclt.com/html/%E6%A0%87%E8%87%B4307_607%E7%BB%B4%E4%BF%AE%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8C/607/info/gb/b2ci08k3.htm
@@ReviveMyRide.. Hi buddy.. Thanks for your reply.. Brilliant.. It's basically what I needed to know.. I actually managed yesterday with a headtorch get under the van looking for a drain bolt.. Which I found then noticed up the side of the case another Allen key bolt.. Which I think is the one you take out and when you fill from the top it will overflow from that bolt.. And the blue plug yes for filling.. But today your information you have sent me.. Has confirmed this.. I can only say to many thanks for the time and help. Brilliant.... Many thanks Paul from Jersey Channel Islands uk.. But a Devon boy.. Stuck in a lock down transition... 😂 👍
@@pb6972 Great! glad the info helped to confirm what you had seen. :-) Good luck getting it sorted! Stay safe, hope you get home soon (and with a working van!) cheers...
@@ReviveMyRide... No honestly.. You don't realise how you're help.. And information.. Was very much appreciated..... And I can't get no help here.. It's hard work trying to explain to people who here are very unqualified.. But know everything no nothing type of people... 😂.... Anyway I will be following your site now for tips and things... I am also adopting you as my new brother.. Haha... No seriously.. Thank you.. wash your hands and keep your distance.. And most of all to everyone in such a hard time remember there's people worse off then your selfs.... Keep smiling and let not lose are sense of humour... Many thanks Paul a Devon boy stuck in the channel islands Jersey since last January.. 😉
Ex mechanic but still bamboozled how to do this job until I came across this vid. You will not find a more clearer or clever method than this from a DIY point of view - Excellent!
That's very high praise, thank you very much! 🙏
Amazing. I just change transmission fluid and filter myself after watching this video. Exactly how he instructed. So so easy with no problem at all. Big thank you as I saved £350 labour easily.
Thanks so much for the kind comment! Well done with the work, always really happy when one of my videos helps someone save some money 😁 cheers, Phil
Great video and detail. I hate it when people showing DIY skip crucial steps! Thanks for the step by step process
Hi, I really appreciate your comment! I try really hard to make my videos show every step so that you can do the job yourself by watching just the one video! 😊
UPDATE - Technically, you should carry out the final fluid check and drain off any excess fluid with the engine running (not stopped as shown in the video). Thanks to John Yun and others that raised this point! AMOUNT OF OIL THAT CAN BE DRAINED & REFILLED - The transmission that features in this video doesn't have a drain plug in the torque converter. Hence, the amount of fluid that can be replaced is less. If your car doesn't have a torque converter drain plug, it is possible to drain more fluid by disconnecting the fluid lines that run to the oil cooler but I don't do this, as it isn't the standard procedure and hence, it isn't in the video. The transmission in my car is at 105k miles, still runs as new and I have always serviced it as shown in this video. However, some other Mercedes cars do have the drain plug and if you have the option, you should drain it, as it allows you to replenish more of the fluid (more effective fluid change). You might have to turn the engine (in normal direction of rotation) by turning the crankshaft pulley with a large socket / bar (if unsure how, make sure you have read up on how to do this before attempting!). Hope this helps! Thanks, RMR
if for instance my gearbox do have a torque converter drain plug an i drain oil from it as well, should i just refill oil through main gearbox oil drain plug or fill some oil seperatelly in to the torque converter too?
@@1945Aleksandr Hi, Yes, you put the torque converter plug back in. Then fill the gearbox as normal through the drain plug. When you start the car and step the box through the various positions (as shown in the video - P, D, N etc), it will fill the torque converter. You will then be able to go back under the car and top up the fluid level. Hope that makes sense! Thanks, Phil
The engine might heat up faster if you rev it around 2-3k rpms like when you warm it up for the smog checks. (10 minutes for full heat of cats and engine)
@@eschrader That's a good point! I was lazy and went in the house for a coffee! lol! Cheers, Phil
@@eschrader WIS procedure recommends letting the engine run at idle speed.
By far the best video explaining this, because you're not just saying do this and do that, you're showing us novices what we need to look out for that experienced people just take for granted! Superb!!
Wow! Thanks very much for the great feedback Louis, I really appreciate it! 😀
Great video, I watched it just for entertaining purposes! The information offered is priceless and the fact that you explain it for the normal DYI’ers adds even more value to it. Keep up the great work!
Thanks! If you haven't seen it, you might find my "Black Death" video interesting, as it was made in a similar style... ruclips.net/video/HV0XCpN76cg/видео.html
Explanations are the clearest they can be, we see everything very well. Thanks a lot for your videos! :)
Thanks for your kind comments! :-)
Great video. Thank you. Doing my service this coming week.
Hope it goes well! Any Q’s just ask! 👍
You should put a tap or screwdriver up the drain plug to knock out the overflow “snorkel” to allow all the oi” to drain before removing the sump plate ....
@kfor6631 Thanks that's a good tip! In fact, I now do it that way. I have an updated video where I do a few things differently (now with more experience), It's here if you're interested: ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.html Thanks, Phil
🔥 I Just Brought Out an UPDATED Video! 👉 ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.html What's NEW about it? 🎥 NOW in 4k! 🔧 SHOWS How-To Drain the Torque Converter! 🔨 CLEARER instructions on How-To Top Up and Achieve the Correct Fluid Level! 🙌 EVEN MORE Hints and Tips That Will Help You! 😎
Thank you so much for this. I did my car yesterday following your instructions. I used a magnetic spirit level on the underside of the sump, was able to dislodge the pipe inside with a screwdriver to get most of the fluid out before removing the sump pan. I used a small oil pump I had bought from Lidl and the pipe fitting you recommended. A very satisfying experience, which I wouldn't have been able to do without your excellent video.
Wow, thank you so much for your feedback and for the extra info about the Lidl pump. I have heard about people using these, I think I might need to get one for next time I do the job! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide You are very welcome Phil and by pure coincide, the fatter of the two pipes on my pump was exactly the right size for the M12 x 1.5 fitting!
Great video, well done in terms of detail and step, very clear and concise explanation. Glad to have found this video, I'll surely do my own trans after having to pay almost double than what it used to be. The fill kit setup you presented is well made and easy to acquire.
Thanks for your comment! 👍😎 Yes, it's a little time consuming but as you say, the service is becoming more expensive, so if you've got the time, worth giving it a go! Thanks, Phil
Enfin une superbe vidéo pour le particulier qui désir vidanger sa boite de mercedes sans utiliser toutes les machines de garage. Merci Merci à force de cherché j'ai trouvé cette vidéo génial et astucieuse !
Merci Philippe, content que la vidéo te plaise !
Great video. This whole "fill and check through the drain" had me wondering what the heck was going on. Your video makes it understandable and easy to do.
Changing the engine oil was already a huge mess. LOL
So I wanted to check on how to do the transmission properly.
About the ones without a torque converter drain plug, I'm sure you could do with this, what I do with GM cars, where you just fill it, run it a bit, then drain it again, then refill it, to replace more fluid. Definitely a little more costly, but you do get more old fluid out.
I watched another video before this one. It pointed out that when you drain the fluid, you can push that white plastic level piece up into the pan, to allow it to drain more, before dropping the pan.
After watching this, now I have a better idea of how to make a took for filling it. Thank you.
Hi, great that the video helped with your tranny fluid change! Good point about flushing out with some fresh oil and redraining. Definitely an option for those concerned about getting a full fluid change. Yep, you are right, it is possible to push up the fill tube and drain more fluid before dropping the pan, making it less messy! I think I would do it this way in the future... Thanks for your comments and sharing your experience! Cheers, Phil
De rien ! je viens de réaliser mon kit grâce à toi , il se visse en lieu et place du trou de vidange du carter de boite sur ma Mercedes classe E 280 CDI, un petit robinet, un tuyau, relié à une boite tube qui s'ouvre par le haut vissé avec joint (tube PVC 100) sur le couvercle également une valve de roue, un tuyau intérieur qui sort a l'extérieur vers le robinet et boite, pour faire monter l'huile installé dans le tube (1l ) je branche le compresseur sur la valve avec un manomètre et il me reste à appuyer sur le manomètre et l'air comprime la boite et fait sortir l'huile en pression et le robinet comme pour toi me permet de couper afin d'éviter que l'huile ressorte lors du remplissage de ma boite. Pour info utilise un tuyau PVC plomberie de 100 également pour boucher un raccord PVC avec couvercle et joint qui se dévisse, et à l'autre extrémité un bouchon aussi en PVC de 100. Encore merci pour ta vidéo, Amicalement Philippe
Salut @philippe4593, on dirait que tu as fait du bon travail dans la construction de ton kit ! Et cela vous sera de nouveau utile la prochaine fois que vous ferez le travail. Merci pour votre commentaire et ravie que la vidéo vous ait aidé ! Bravo, Phil
I found your video extremely helpful however instead of a hand pump I simply drilled a hole in the top of the new fluid container fitted it with a half inch poly tube drilled another smaller hole and use my air compressor to pressurize the container it worked great
Sounds like an interesting idea! I like a bit of improvisation :-)
THIS VID MAY INTEREST YOU! - How to replace rear shock absorbers /struts on a Mercedes Benz ruclips.net/video/wIHaPlfZI34/видео.html
@@bigbruno56 hi, I believe the part you are talking about is the overflow pipe that fits just inside the drain plug (I think I call it a snorkel in the video, didn’t know the correct term for it at the time!). Anyway, it is really important but if you are filling the transmission from the bottom and then doing the level check, it is the overflow pipe that allows you to set the level correctly. Effectively, you fill from the bottom, warm up the transmission, remove the drain plug and any fluid that is above the level of the overflow pipe will run back out. There’s a good write up about it here: www.youcanic.com/wiki/mercedes-7229-7-speed-transmission-check-fluid-level If you want to remove the overflow pipe, my understanding is that there is a special tool / drift that allows you to do so. I’ve never done it this way, but here’s a link to the info. mbworld.org/forums/attachments/e-class-w212/417964d1537904979-service-207-coupe-212-sedan-automatic-transmission-oil-pan.pdf Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@bigbruno56 Hi, to be honest I've never done it this way. My gut feel is that it isn't a good idea because the snorkel is a plastic piece and therefore, is quite light, so I imagine it would float around inside and maybe get caught up in something? I know it seems like a pain but if you buy the pan gasket and new bolts, you can go ahead and drop the pan and this would definitely be the safer option. Thanks, Phil
@@bigbruno56 No probs! Hope you get on ok with the job!
@@bigbruno56 Hi, if you were planning on doing a full transmission fluid change, the minimum amount you would normally change is 5L (for cars like mine that didn't have a torque converter drain plug). If you are able to completely change the fluid, then it can be up to around 7L. So, two comments really. 1) Hardly any fluid has been changed, so the work that you have had done isn't a full fluid change / service 2) I don't want to alarm you because I have zero experience of using slip stop in transmissions but I would never, ever use anything but the recommended fluid in my Mercedes transmission. They are pretty much bullet proof if serviced correctly with the right fluid and filters etc. You didn't mention in your previous messages that your transmission wasn't working properly? Were you having problems with it, hence the slip stop? BTW, Mercedes transmissions can give the feeling that they are slipping (engine revs and the drive doesn't engage fully) if the fluid is low. Hope this helps! Thanks, Phil
@@bigbruno56 okey dokey, sounds like you know what you’re doing! 👍 and sometimes it is a case of keeping these old cars running. RUclips is very international, nice to have a viewer from Scotland, I’m in Yorkshire but you may have gathered that from the accent! 😁 cheers, Phil
Very nice invention of the refill pump ! Thanks for sharing.
No probs, hope it helps! BTW, a few buyers have mentioned using an inexpensive electric pump that they bought from Aldi for this job (probably available elsewhere - Amazon, Ebay etc). Not sure of the details of it but might be a good alternative. Although, I must say, I find the hand suction pump really useful for all sorts of jobs since I got it, so it is a good addition to the garage. Also, you would probably still need an adaptor of some kind into the sump outlet. Thanks, Phil
shouldnt you drain the converter
If your car has a torque converter drain plug (not all of them do!) then yes! I did a vid on how to do that: ruclips.net/video/oLjx6kV8MEo/видео.html Also, an updated video on the full job that also includes the torque converter and lots of other things that I learned along the way... ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.html Thanks, Phil
Getting ready to do this job on my 722.9 on my slk 55. Thanks for your video.
Great stuff, hope it goes well! Give me a shout if you have any questions and I'll try to help if I can! Thanks, Phil
I stumbled upon your video today again and I forgot to mention you need to keep the engine running while fixing the oil level. The oil should start dripping then you can close the plug. Other than that it was cool.
Thanks for your comment! As it happens, I stopped the car, checked it immediately (as shown in the video) and haven't had any problems... so I don't think it amkes a huge difference. It's a while ago now and I "think" I stopped the engine so that people could hear what I'm saying in the video? 😂 BUT Yes, you are 100% correct that technically, you should level check and top up with the engine running. Thanks, Phil
I think a running engine would make a difference in the fluid quantity. How much oil did it take to fill?
Great video, what is the size of steel pan bolts you used? Thanks
Hi, they were M6 x 40mm cap heads. TBH, for the job they are doing, they seem a bit long, you would get away with 30mm or 35mm long bolts. Just make sure you use Metric coarse (which are basic metric bolts) as the pitch of the thread is 1mm, which is what you need. Thanks, Phil
One of the best DIY vid; very very informative with details and cost saving techniques. I subscribed because I would like to see more of your vids on Mercedes 722.9 as well as on my corvette race car
Thank you very much for taking the time to comment and for your kind feedback! I still have my Mercedes that has the 722.9 transmission in it, so I'm sure more videos will follow! If your vehicle, happens to have a Mercedes diesel engine in it, then you will find quite a few videos on this on my homepage too. Corvette race car sounds fantastic, I take it you are into your motorsport? I don't have one of those yet but a Corvette is on my Car "Bucket List"! Thanks, Phil
Do I have to refill oil from the bottom. How about refilling from deep stick on top of angine ? Thanks for tutorial
Hi, glad you liked the video and thanks for your comment! A lot of these cars don’t have a dipstick for checking the gearbox oil level and the only access point for draining and refilling is the drain plug. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Perfect tutoring , explained very clearly and concisely , I know understand what is involved , as I was quoted £450.00 for the gearbox service. I will buy the parts And ask my mechanic to replace them. Look forward to your next videos.
Thanks for the kind comment and for taking the time to post it! Glad the video helped you :-)
Very good video on the procedure but most helpful was the re-fill apparatus and your description on how to make it. Question is what did Andy Horsfal make and do we need to get one make also OR is everything in your diagram all we need to buy and assemble to re-fill the transmission? Thanks again for a great video.
Hi, thanks for your message & sorry for any confusion. If you buy all of the things that I described in the kit, then that should allow you to refill the gearbox. Andy made me an adaptor on the lathe that screws into the gearbox pan (sump plug hole) but you can buy them and it appears in the kit (similar to item no. 1). He just wanted to practice his machining skills and I promised him a mention if he made the part for me!
@@ReviveMyRide I thought that might be the case but just wanted to be sure. Thanks again.
Have you included a note that I’ve missed re; stepping through the transmission P-D-R to circulate the fresh fluid?
I saw a reference to it as being in the video but didn’t see.
My model is 2014 W212/3 E300 Hybrid
Hi, I have limited connection at the mo, so can’t easily go back and watch the vid but you are correct, after changing the fluid, it is a good idea to start the car, keep your foot on the brake and then step it though the various gears circa 10 secs in each one. Your car may have the 9G-tronic at that age? If so, the service is likely to be slightly different to what I showed. I have a 9G now but haven’t had to service it yet…. Thanks, Phil
Thanks Phil, for interest my car was assembled here in Thailand so is somewhat out of step with European/US models and has 7G transmission. Designated E300 blutec hybrid AMG Dynamic however it doesn’t use Blue 🤔
Enough of my ramblings, many thanks for your down to earth approach to vehicle maintenance and improvisation of easily obtainable items to save buying service tools that usually cost the earth.
@@barnstormin That’s really interesting about your car, I had no idea you could get a “hybrid” spec like that in other countries! Thanks very much, always trying to find ways for home diy’ers to get the job done to a good standard in a budget! 👍
Hi Phil,
Just out of interest, when I finally got around opening my MB EPC WIS/ASRA (which I should have done earlier) and started reviewing all the stuff I have clearly forgotten I note that the 7 G-Tronic on my car is actually 724.208 unique to Hybrids I'm assuming and the EPC makes ordering spares easier. There doesn't appear to be any difference in the hybrid ATF & Filter method and the only references to Hybrid is basically, 'Don't mess with any orange bits! Which I steer well clear of anyhow but if you or readers have any specific comments on Hybrid transmissions I'd like to hear them in particular references the torque converter drain which, until I get under and see if there's anything in the configuration that prevents draining as in non Hybrids, I need to research further.
What about removing the return line to the transmission pan so that you can flush out any transmission fluid left over in any trans coolers. Also what about the torque converter Is it possible to drain that as well? They usually have a cover which can be removed to reveal a drain bolt.
Hi, thanks for your comments! I didn't disconnect the return lines because that wasn't part of the procedure that I decided to follow. I suppose I was trying to keep it simple. I have heard of it being done, it just comes down to personal preference. Yes, you are correct, if your torque converter has a drain plug, then you should drain it as well. Please see a comment that I pinned to the top of the video comments board for more info! Thanks, Phil
What a wicked video, so much detailed information, well done‼️
Thanks so much!! 😁😁
Great information, i am planning to do the same for my c200 w205 2015 and only owning it for 2 months (so don't know much about Merc). this will be my first time doing this, so i am a bit nervous, but i am a DIY person, so i am planning to go ahead. Can i check with you what socket/size do you use for the 6 pan bolts please? Thanks very much
Hi, I'm pretty sure that it was an E11 torx socket. I'll link to a set here, so that you can see what I mean. amzn.to/3nPHauC BTW, I have done an updated video, which from comments etc, vieweres are saying is better, more information and clearer. It's here if you're interested: ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.html
Great Video! by the way, how did you make the valve? thx
Hi, in the diagram at 14:12 in the video, you can see all of the equipment that you need for a filler set up, including a valve (Item no. 4 on diagram). They are all listed in the description. I used a different valve in my video because I just had it lying around but if you need to buy one, the one listed in the description will be cheaper for you. I had a friend make an adaptor that goes into the sump for me on a lathe at work but then later realised you can buy them really cheap (item no.1 on diagram). Hope that helps! If you have any other questions, just let me know! 👍
I have a 2007 E350 Sport W211 with a 722.9 7 speed transmission. I've serviced everything on the car myself except the transmission which I had the Mercedes Dealership do a year ago. I can't seem to find the dealer port for the trans in the engine bay so i can check the level or the color. Please Help!
Hi, one of the limitations of this transmission design is that most of the versions (if not all, I haven't checked every version) don't have a dipstick or any other means of checking the fluid level and colour from the engine bay. Mine certainly doesn't. You set the level when refilling it (from underneath) after a service and then don't check again until the next service. I'm not entirely comfortable with this either but it seems that is the modern way! Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thanks!
Superb Video. Thank you for listing and the hyperlinks all the tools used creating this video. Absolutely brillant
Thanks for your comment! Glad the links helped yous ee exactly what tools are required. If you are tackling itself, good luck with the work!
Thanks
Great job
Sir How much put oil in side 5 le...
Hi, Thanks for your comment! I'm not 100% sure what you are asking but I think you are asking how much fluid goes back into the gearbox? If so, I put 5L in initially, then I went through the warm up / priming sequence and then added more. The exact amount that you put back in will depend on the version of the gearbox that you have. for example if you are able to drain the torque converter. I hope this helps! Cheers, Phil
I saw another video where someone filled through the trans dip stick hole then cycled through the gears when idling. Do you only need to do some of that if you drain the torque converter?
Hi, my understanding is that the 7G-tronic transmission doesn't have a transmission level dipstick. Hence, the unusual filling and level checking process. The earlier 5G-tronic did have the facility to add a dipstick, so maybe in the video you mentioned, it was one of those? Regarding the torque converter, it fills automatically from the tranny sump when you start the car, then you just top up the level (through the drain plug). Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
I think you need to get out the oil from the torque converter as well.
Hi, thank you for your comment but please see the comment that I pinned to the top of this "comments" section, where I address this point. Some of the early 722.9 7G-tronic transmissions didn't have a drain plug on the torque converter. Cheers, RMR
Recently I've been considering an SLK with a 7 speed auto box, I'm guessing this guide may be useful. Thanks Phil
Yes, I think so. Depending on which model year you buy, the gearbox will be the same or very similar!
On my GMC Sierra, the procedure is the same except the final level is established with the engine running,
Including filling the transmission through the drain plug? I thought this was really weird but maybe not if other manufacturers do the same... Yeah, technically, I should have left the car running. I stopped the engine and checked the fluid level straight away but as you say, ideally, should have eft it running (I shut it off so that people could hear me speak but should have done a voice over during editing instead!).
great video; thanks. Did you also replace the plastic pipe (that connects to the drain hole) in the pan as well?
Hi, thanks for your comment, glad you liked the video! 👍 No, I didn't replace the plastic fill pipe. I have read a lot of write ups and I haven't come across anyone replacing theirs but some people probably do! Apparently, if you are just doing a fluid change (not dropping the pan and changing the internal filter), you can "pop it up", which allows more of the fluid to drain and then put it back to its original position again but I've never done this myself. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Very helpful, great to get the correct thread size for the filler
Great, glad the info helped! I’m always measuring car threads with vernier callipers, thread gauges and looking them up in a Zeus book. Maybe I should do a vid on it! 🤔
What is your opinion on the FEBI parts and the FUCHS fluid? Is it good quality and sufficient enough?
Hi, Febi Bilstein is my favourite after market brand and I look for their products first when I’m searching. I’ve used them lots and always been happy with the quality. Fuchs Titan is my fluid of choice and I’ll always buy in preference if I can get it! I’ve used it in my Merc gearbox for the last couple of fluid changes and it’s worked flawlessly. So, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with either of those brands. 👍 cheers, Phil
I like this video of yours very much, it explains the technique of how to change the gearbox oil and filter very well.
However i think you should also mention to people that unless you also drain the oil in the torque converter as well, you are only
really doing half of an oil change as the torque converter holds about 4 litres on its own, so you are only mixing old oil with new oil ?
Hi Alan, glad you liked the video and thanks for the comment! You are correct about the torque converter. Early cars like mine don't have a drain plug but a lot of the later models did. I provided an update to cover this in a comment that I have pinned and in the description. Unfortunately, I can't easily add anything new to the video... Cheers, Phil
Hi great video thank you! You put in 5 litres of ATF, but everywhere I’ve read about this states its 9 litres? Can you please explain this as I have a 7 speed as well?
Hi Graham, the most I have seen stated as a total refill volume is just over 7L, never as high as 9L, so I would say that 9L is definitely incorrect. The reason you see variation on the 722.9 transmission from around 5L refill to as high as 7.5L is because the transmission design evolved over time. It always had the same max fluid capacity but Mercedes improved the ability to drain it down over time. On later versions a plug was added to the torque converter, so you could drain it as well. Some owners also detach the pipes that go to the transmission oil cooler, so that they can change more of the fluid. If you check out this link, some members of the Merc forum have attached links to various documents (including how to drain the torque converter if the transmission in your car has a drain plug on it). mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w209/471925-wis-doc-722-9-torque-converter-transmission-drain.html Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thanks heaps Phil for the info, my Merc is a 2013 E400 sedan can I assume it has the 722.9 trans in it?
@@grahamsmith7407 no probs! yep, my understanding is the the 7 speed (7G tronic) is the 722.9. Then it moved to a 9 speed (725.0) and the predecessor was the 5 speed (722.6) Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide cool thanks again Phil!👍
I also had another question you said you put 5 into the sump but the transmission calls for 9 and 1/2 quartz. I did drain the torque converter as well. should I put some fluid in the sump and run it for a brief period of time to fill the torque converter??? And then top off?
Hi, my model of the transmission doesn't have the torque converter drain plug and so I wasn't able to change as much of the fluid as you will. Yep, that is exactly what I would recommend: fill the sump to the level (when it starts to run back out of the level tube), run the transmission and step it through each of the gear positions, stopping for 5-10secs at each position (Park, drive, reverse etc), you will probably feel the drive engage, with your foot on the brake. Then check the level and do a top up. Of course, you will also have the running up to temperature and final level check to do too. Hope that helps, thanks!
Is it possible to fill via the ATF dipstick rather than mess with that whole plumbing store set up? I have the dipstick from MB to measure the fluid level and a new filler cap w/red locking tab once I’ve finished. This would be less expensive and much easier although maybe a bit more time-consuming introducing the new fluid. Never seen it done this way though so wanted to ask first. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Hi, I was aware of the dipstick that you can buy but I'm pretty sure it isn't available as an option on all of the 722.9 transmission iterations. To answer your question: It should be possible to fill through the dipstick but you may be breaking new ground as I couldn't find any hits when I searched for it. I don't think it would be my preferred option as it presents a couple of problems: 1) As you say, filling would be slow. 2) You would fill down the tube and then need to use the same tube to do the level check, so fluid still in the tube may foul the dipstick. Since I was underneath the car anyway (to drop the pan and change the internal filter etc), I found it easy to fill through the bottom. If you do decide give it a try, please let me know how you get on! Thanks, RMR
Good detail on filling method. BUT!!
You switched off the engine and allowed more fluid to drain out. I am sure Mercedes state the engine must be running, with oil at 45 deg. ... then you re-fit sump plug ... THEN switch engine off. Your method would not fill gearbox to correct level.
You are correct, when i changed the oil on my ML280 i did exactly that, any excess oil will overflow via the overflow pipe when up to temperature, then you replace the sump plug when the system level is full.
Incidentally you also need to drain the torque converter and also the oil cooler and associated pipe work, you will be surprised how much additional oil lies in this area or you will find that you are actually only renewing 70% of the oil.
Hi there, if the oil drains out as soon as you take the sump plug off, does that mean it was overfilled in the first place as the level is above the snorkel/overflow pipe?
Hi, no, not necessarily. The final fluid check and level adjustment on the transmission is often done with it running, meaning some of the fluid will be in circulation. When draining the transmission, it is usually switched off and been sitting for a while. Just an estimate but I would expect up to 200 - 300ml to come out of the drain plug when you take the sump plug out. Hope that helps! Happy to answer any question you have if I can! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thanks!
The Engine must run if you drain the overflow
Thank you, you're absolutely right. I used to stop the engine and then quickly do the level check and this always worked well for me. but now I have an updated video where I do quite a few things slightly differently... just with experience . ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.htmlsi=uq75v1R-AOjeduhy Thanks, Phil
Hi m8 top video I have a 12v oil pump I got from lidl used it before down dip sticks on auto box's and engine oil do you think it would work on the merc box instead of the hand pump ps my ml320 has no dip so I would be doing same as you Alan
Hi Alan, Sorry for the slow reply. Yep, I have had a lot of comments in the past from people who prefer to fill through the sump plug using a small pump. So it should work! Might be easier / less messy if you have a small valve screwed into the sump outlet but not essential. Hope that helps! Cheers, RMR
I don't have the service information on my 2009 Mercedes-Benz S550 4matic. My oil pan has a leak. If I do a Transmission pan service will it damage my Transmission? I'm very worried about that......
Hi, if your pan is leaking, it is almost certainly the rubber pan / gasket seal. These transmissions are sensitive to fluid level, so if you are losing fluid, it needs to be sorted or you will start to get problems. If you have a little too much or too little fluid, it won’t damage your transmission but it will start affecting how it operates. I’ve actually created a much more detailed video now, give it a watch and you should hopefully gauge how confident you feel about doing the work diy. ruclips.net/video/tda4zokL4Os/видео.html Maybe get some quotes from local Mercedes Benz specialists and then you can make a decision on it. Hope that helps, thanks, Phil
Thanks. Helped me to change the transmission oil on my C350. Much appreciated and very well explained.
Thanks for taking the time to comment! Really happy the vid helped you DIY the job and save some money!
Great video, well done and thanks.
Glad you liked the video and thanks for your comment! 👍
for yournoil pan shape up to 18.6.2010 white overflow pipe should be used.
Thanks! The overflow pipe in my oil pan is white, it has just become a little discoloured over time and maybe looked a little yellowy in the video. Usually, if you just leave in place whatever overflow pipe is already there, then you won't go far wrong (although I hear Mercedes do update them sometimes).
@@ReviveMyRide what wis says is it should be replaced with white. That means whatever color it was up to 18.6.2010 it should now be white.
Very well explained. Thank you.
Thanks for your comment and glad you found the video helpful! 😊
Hi.I ve got transmission oil cleaner (Liqui Moly).Shall I use it or it may make gear shift worse ? OM642 with 190 k miles and probably oil replaced about 70 k miles ago in MB Salisbury .Shall i replace oil from torque converter too ? Thanks.
Hi, I've never used a transmission cleaner. My concern would be getting it all out again so that it doesn't interfere with and degrade the new transmission oil. These tranny's are difficult to drain without a certain amount of extra disassembly. Personally, I would try a transmission fluid and internal filter change before resorting to a cleaning fluid. Yes, if it is possible to drain the torque converter, I would do it. Here is a video that shows how to do it. ruclips.net/video/oLjx6kV8MEo/видео.html Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Is there a reason that you didnt drain oil from torque converter? It should be done in oil change? I think you leave at least 2l old dirty oil in if you dont drain torque converter.
Thanks for your comment! Yes there is, early 722.9 7G's didn't have torque converter drain plugs. I have tried to address this point on the comment board for this video by creating a "sticky / pinned" comment at the top and adding some info in the description. If you want to read more about it, here is a link to a discussion on a Benz forum: www.benzworld.org/threads/cant-find-722-9-torque-converter-drain-plug.2118665/ Cheers, Phil
Do you put any cain of glue to the pan gasket , because when I change my transmission oil I have a lot licking oil and I look you video and I don't see any glue putting on you pan gasket o what exactly I doing wrong?
Hi, No, you don't use any glue. If you did, then it might lead to the gasket leaking. So, you need to do the opposite, make sure the edge of the pan is really clean, with no oil residue, as this will help the gasket stay in place. Also, if the new gasket was folded up in a packet, then it sometimes takes a bit of work to straighten it out etc. The new gasket should have some rubber location lugs on it that fit into holes on the pan. These also help keep it in place, I mention / show them at 7:34 in the video. Hope that helps and good luck with it! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide sadly I did it and when I was trying to put the last bolt it broke out on my and a lot of oil came out , and now I ordered new bolts , and a new pan gasket again and a they sooner I get those parts , I gonna fix it but now a don't now how to take off that glue whitout harmed the trasmission , I used the optimum black high flex gasket maker, and I'm very thankful for you help, I really. really appreciate it!!!
@@saulpaz8857 Happy to help! You can remove the old sealant from both surfaces using a green scouring pad amzn.to/3bxDyJm and some brake cleaner. It is time consuming but this wont damage the surface of the bottom of the gearbox or the pan. Take your time and take care to make sure old sealant etc doesn't get into the gearbox. You can also use a plastic implement of some kind (like plastic trim removal tools) to scrape the surface. Don't use metal tools because if you damage the surface, the new gasket won't seal properly. Were you using a torque wrench to put in the pan bolts? If not, then you really should, helps to prevent bolt breakage. Hope this helps and please let me know how you get on! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide i very thankful for you knowledge ,as soonest I get everything put together , the right way , thanks to you im gonna get my car back , and a really, really appreciate everything to you thank you very much!!!
you forgot to drain the torq converter. You should always drain it on 7g transmissions. you have to take down the extra oil pump and turn the engine until you find the drain plug on the torq converter. 10nm is the torq on the bolts :) Engine should be at running temp befor draining it :)
Hi, thank you for your comment, just to reply to your points: Early 722.9 7g's didn't have torque converter drain plugs. I previously added a comment on this video and made it a "sticky" where I clarified this point. Also, you can read about it here on the Benz forum, you will get lots of hits if you search for it: www.benzworld.org/threads/cant-find-722-9-torque-converter-drain-plug.2118665/ Some owners detach the pipes to the oil cooler to drain more fluid but I couldn't find an official procedure for this, so I stuck to the standard fluid change process. I used 8Nm for my pan bolts as this is the number I found in my documentation. It could be that it has been updated (procedures, fill levels etc do get updated from time to time by MB) but rest assured that 8Nm worked for me with no leaks. I think running up to temperature before draining may be a personal choice, there are plenty of other people who advocate leaving the car to sit overnight and then draining it when it is flat cold. I don't think there is a right or wrong way, or if there is it will probably make minimal difference, as the fluid is pretty thin and drains very readily. Thanks, Phil
I finally did it. New bolts snap off, not even close to the torque spec. Huge mess in the driveway. I guess I will have to use the old bolts.
I'm with you on this one! I don't know why they use such weak bolts and the torque spec is really low. I'm sure I had at least one of the new ones break but thought maybe I had a bad bolt or two, otherwise I would have mentioned it in the video!
How many miles before you change gearbox oil cheers.
Hi Steven, the service interval is 40,000 miles for the 7-Gtronic gearbox. From 2010 onwards (some people call this the 7G+), it moved up to every 70,000 miles. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Can you please share where did you order the drain plug crush washer, is there a parts # from MB?
Hi, the part number is: N 007603 012102. I usually buy from Autodoc, but they have had some problems delivering to the UK since Brexit (might be resolved now?). If you do go on Autodoc using the part number, you can then click on the details of the item and it will confirm which vehicles it fits (this is a really useful feature even if you don't end up buying from them). Also, using the part number, I found some on ebay for a couple of £. I have bought Vaico in the past and found them to be good. Hope this helps! Any further Q's please just ask! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thank you! I got the correct number and pick up one at local dealership.
@@ReviveMyRide BTW, do you also have a video for drain the torque converter? Mine has a drain plug but the position is at an odd angle and hard to reach with ratchet wrench
@@4hikers629 Hi, sorry I don’t have a video on that as my car doesn’t have the torque converter drain :-( However I have read that you need to turn the engine at the crank to bring the torque converter plug to the bottom. See this link: www.benzworld.org/threads/how-do-you-rotate-the-torque-converter-to-get-to-the-drain-plug.1642176/ Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thank you. I did see the drain plug, it's just difficult to work on because of the odd angle
I cannot do the level, all the fluid is coming out . Can I cask you why? Thank you
Hi, I assume you are filling the transmission from the bottom using an attachment and a pump? The main reason I can think of that fluid would run straight back out is if the overflow pipe isn't fitted correctly. It fits directly above the drain plug and is like a little tube. As it is a few inches long, fluid should not flow back out of the transmission pan until the level is high enough to go above the top of the over flow pipe. Just for clarity, here is the piece I am talking about www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173929467890 and you can see it fitted on the inside of the transmission at 05:55 in the video. Hope that helps! If you have more questions, just let me know and I'll help if I can! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thank you, I gonna have to drain the fluid and put it back in . Can I also ask you one last question please, Why does the car goes in limp mode when I reach around 100mph and until I stop the engine and start it again, It has no power and the engine doesn't go about 3000rpm even if I drive with 30mph.(I have an S320 2006) Also I want to mention that when is hot it starts then dies right away, always starts from the second try. Thank you ! Have a nice day!
Very helpful!! I will do my as instructed.
Great content, thanks!
I have 2011 w212 E200 CGI with 5G-Tronic. You know if they have same Refilling adapter
M12x1.5 (male thread) and my transmission is also call 722.9?
Hi, Good question that got me checking around a bit! Looks like they offered two auto transmissions on your model of car. The 5 speed, known as the 722.6 and the 7 speed, known as the 722.9.
If your transmission is a 5-speed, then it is a 722.6 gearbox and the thread size for the adaptor is different, it is a M10x1.0 (male thread). Check out this website which may be useful to you. nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/ga/722646/21s/27/115/?chasis=212003D01 Also, maybe do some searches for a 722.6 transmission fluid change video as the procedure is likely to be slightly different. Sorry, I haven't worked on one of the 5 speeds before. Hope this helps! Cheers,
Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thank you for your reply! Is helping alot. Keep up the good content sir. :)
does the transmission have to hot or cold when draining?
I always do it cold because that way, all of the fluid is in the pan, if it has been running recently, you have to wait for it to drain down out of the tranny. Cheers, Phil
thanks cheers@@ReviveMyRide
Thanks for the information on the adapter
Thanks! :-)
Hi what’s different between 236.14 136.15 fluid?
Hi, I never looked into it in too much detail. I knew my car needed the 236.14 and left it at that. Apparently from 2010, when Merc introduced the Stop / Start technology, they moved to the lower viscosity 236.15. If your car is in the 2010/2011 age range and you're not sure what fluid to use, you are best to call Merc with your VIN and query it. Hope that helps some... Thanks, Phil
Revive My Ride thank you Phil I think exactly is what you said
Brilliant.. so happy i found this .....
Great! Glad you liked the vid 👍😎
Great video but I am totally confused by your comment "From mid-2010 onwards a 7G Tronic plus auto transmission was fitted and this one used blue transmission fluid. NOT FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO."
I cant find anything on this type fluid can you please advise!
Hi Joe, Mercedes continued to develop the 7g-Tronic (722.9) transmission throughout its service life. From 2011 onwards with the introduction for Stop / Start technology, they changed the fluid type. If your car is pre 2011 / non start stop then there is some guidance on fluid in my video description. Post 2011 car or just interested, here's a link to a discussion on a forum: forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/722-9-transmission-fluid-change-questions.183783/page-2 Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
The job is well and clearly done. Thank you
Thanks very much! 🙏 👍
Hi ,I have a e220 ,5years old,with 28000 on the clock.Do I need a auto transmission service.it seems a little early for that. Thank You
Hi, it seems that Mercedes have changed the recommendation a few times for this gearbox, so there are lots of answers out there including a service at 40k, 50k and even 75k miles. However, they all say "or at 5 years". So, strictly speaking the transmission service is due according to age, if not yet due to mileage. Personally, I would be tempted to wait another year but that is down to personal choice. There is a good resource here that might help you decide lite.servicemercedes.co.uk/ess/pc/ Hope that helps!
You may need to drain torque convertor too ?
Hi, thanks for raising this point because it is a good one! I did lots of research and it seems that on this car (with this gearbox), there isn't a way to drain the torque converter. Certainly I couldn't see a drain plug on it and that was backed up by research I did on the forums. However, other Merc gearboxes and many other manufacturers do provide a means of draining the torque converter. Basically, you are right, if it is possible to drain the torque converter, then you should as it will refresh more of the fluid during the oil change. The rest of the procedure as per the video stays the same. Thanks!
@@ReviveMyRide The correct method of changing the oil on any late clutched torque converter involves 'wasting' a complete oil change. it's impossible to effectively drain the oil out of the torque converter whilst it's still in the car, aswell as the heat exchanger etc... You should carry out a complete oil change as you have, run the car for a period of time or take it for a short drive when up to normal temperature, then drain all the oil and refill with new. This dilutes the old oil left in the torque converter mixing it with fresh stuff, if you are unable to extract all the oil out of the sump, you should remove the sump, in this case only replace the oil filter and gasket on the final fluid change. The torque converter can hold around 2ltrs of old oil, the most important part of automatic transmission oil are the friction modifiers, these control the slip properties of the clutches, if your oil is burnt (smells like burnt toast) that's another story. The Torsen diff in most VW Audi 4 wheel drives are notorious for tire scrub due to the friction modifiers failing in the oil of the diff, oil plays an ever increasing important roll in transmission, the additives are part of the transmissions' design, cheap oils can't be guaranteed to have the correct quantity of additives, this will shorten the life of the gearbox, I would ever only recommend OEM oils or their actual supplier. Now you can understand why transmission oil changes are so expensive!
You should drain it yes. Detach the oil pump by 3 bolts (8Nm), under the oil pump there is a d=3cm black cover, remove it, then rotate the engine in N until the M8 drain screw (10Nm, replace) of the converter appears. I had 3.8l in the Torque converter!!
nice sharing my friend.. watching from Malaysia
Thank you! Nice to have a viewer from Malaysia! 😀👍
Did you put new bolts ?
Yes I did! Sorry if I didn't mention it in the video! Highly recommended to replace the bolts. They are made of aluminium alloy, not steel and they don't take very kindly to being reused, very prone to snapping during retorqueing (even though the torque is really low). Speaking of torque, a mini torque wrench really does come in handy to get the torque correct on tis job! Hope this helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide , I am getting ready to do this to my 2004 E500. I see some people and literature say to torque the new transmission pan bolts to 4 NM. Some other sources say to torque to 4 NM and then turn the bolt an additional 180 degrees. I really do not know which is correct for my car. Can you advise? Thank you. Tom
Why can 't you put transmission fluid down to the dipstick?
Hi @caesar2064 Most (if not all) 7G Tronic (722.9) transmissions don't have a dipstick! Thanks, Phil
Love your videos keep them coming. Have you ever heard of a message error Pre safe functions limited. I got this message today on my 2014 E300 diesel hybrid ???? Please help. Thanks 👍👍
Hi, glad you like the vids and thanks for your comments! Regarding your query, this is the first time that I heard about this warning. I did some reading (imagine you have been doing some too!). Seems that the newer Mercedes car can "prepare for an accident" if you brake heavily or if certain sensors give feedback (or fail to). Found this interesting discussion on a well known forum, hope it helps! www.benzworld.org/threads/pre-safe-functions-currently-limited.2094274/
Thanks for taking the time to do these. I'm looking into a Metris van which uses the 7Gtronic plus. Did you not need to drain the torque converter? It has a drain plug as well. Probably only a few ounces so not that big a deal.
Hi Stuart, thanks for your post! Just had a look at Metris vans on google as I hadn't looked at them before, looks really nice! All of the variants of the 7G-tronic gearboxes are really good, so I'm sure you will like it! Yes, you are right, if your torque converter has a drain plug then you should use it, as you will get a better fluid change. Mine didn't have one, as it is an early model and the torque converter drain plug was added later. You may already be aware of this but just in case: The fluid type changed for the 7G-tronic plus (to 236.15 "blue" fluid) and the service intervals got longer. Thanks, Phil
What you think about mercedes saying no need to change the transmission oil it's last life of the vehicle. Good video
Hi, As far as I know, they all need to be serviced! The gearbox that features in this video is the 7G-tronic (722.9) and should be serviced every 40,000 miles. Later gearboxes referred to as the 7G+ from circa 2011 onwards have a longer service interval of 70,000 miles. Hope this helps, you can find lots of info on the forums of mbclub.co.uk or mercedesclub.org.uk
Nicely done, thanks
Thanks for the feedback! :-)
Great info!! Thanks for posting!!
Glad you found it helpful!
Do you know how to replace the hydraulic pump on the same gearbox.
Sorry, I haven't needed to do that before, so don't have any experience to share. I did find this video. It's a very LONG video but may help you! Thanks, Phil
Really useful video, procedure well explained in a calm logical manner, now confident to tackle this job on my e320 cdi w211. Looking forward to other vids
Thanks for posting! Great that you are planning to DIY the job :-) Exactly the reason why I do my videos! Good luck with it and if you have any questions, please just ask!
Nice work very useful but why don't think to use cooler hoses from the radiator? I think we can refilling the oil from it easily!
Hi, thanks for your comment. However, not 100% sure what you are recommending, can you please give a little bit more information? cheers!
That oil cooler hose is actually supposed to be the point where a flush takes place. The cooler and Torque converter are holding the remaining 5 or so qts of fluid (as the pan only has about half of total fluid). Getting ready to do this job myself & have confirmed with updated MB service instructions and techs at 2 local dealerships that they do a complete flush on the 722.9 now. I do wonder if doing a fluid change like this every 20k mi would be comparable to doing the full flush every 40k mi (which is their service interval)
@@RothBeyondTheGrave Thanks for the additional info! I have done a couple of fluid changes like from the video and the gearbox always runs better for it but do like the idea of changing more / all of the fluid!
very nice video. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for taking the time to comment Jimmy, glad you liked the video! 👍 cheers, Phil
Daft question, is there no filler plug or is it just in a hard to reach place?
There isn't a filler plug. I know it seems a bit weird but I have come across this before on a VW Golf DSG autobox too, so I think it must be fairly common.,
U got it wrong at the end; u have to check the oil level with the engine running. It's on merc service manual.
Thanks John! You are right, I have updated a comment pinned to the top of the comment board with this additional info. My car / transmission runs fine but technically, it might be short a little bit of fluid. Cheers, RMR
Excellent job.
Thank you, Cheers!
small comment it is 4 nm + 180* dergees, for oil pan holder screws.
correction: main plug is 22 nm
What year and model car is that?
Hi, thanks for your comment! I have seen that 4nm + 180deg is the recommendation but many people don't have a torque wrench that does that low and / or an angle gauge for the 180deg turn. 8Nm worked well for me, no leaks and no snapped bolts. Agree, the main plug is 22Nm, it does come up on the screen in the video in yellow letter when I am tightening it up. Thanks!
@@ReviveMyRide the issue is not the bolts but the gasket used for it. 4nm+180 is just right not to appy to much pressure on it and overtime causing leaks. As per the bolts holding the pan those are alu and need to ve replaced. This is for those people doing this, so they have the info.
for low torque yoy can use a bicycle torque wrench or a digital torque adapter.
@@FinTra_ yep, exactly!!!
The fancy pan bolts are designed to be one time use only just like the gasket else they'll brake off like in a video from FCP Euro.
I think its worth dislodging the “snorkel” with a screwdriver to release more oil before dropping the sump
Thanks for your comment! Yep, agree, next time I do the job, I will do this as it makes the sump easier to lower without spilling oil. cheers!
Thank you so much Phill.
Glad you found the video helpful and thanks for taking the time to comment! Cheers, Phil
Finally a good video!!! Thank you!!
Thanks for taking the time to comment, really appreciate the positive energy! ⚡️ Thanks, Phil
How many miles or time between filter and change
Hi, this has been updated a few times by Mercedes and so, as you can imagine, people have slightly different opinions! My view: If your car is manufactured up to 2010, it has the "red fluid" 7G-tronic (as featured in this video), the service schedule is 38,000 miles or 5 years. If you have the later 7G-tronic made from 2010 onwards "Blue fluid", it is every 70,000 miles or 5 years. Hope that helps! Cheers, RMR
No torque converter fluid change?
Hi, early cars didn't have the access port to allow the torque converter to be drained. But if you are interested, I recently released a video showing how to drain the torque converter (on cars that do have the access port) 👉 ruclips.net/video/oLjx6kV8MEo/видео.html Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide yes I did see that thanks 😉
@@MrBlompod cool! 😎 obvs a full new 7G video out too where I give lots of extra tips and explain more. I suspect you know quite a lot about these trannys already. Comments and discussion is always welcome! 🙏 cheers, Phil
@@AroundTuit Thanx Phil I bought a beautiful 2014 W204 CDI 250 coupe only 45 thousand kilometres on it, it’s as new. Got a quote for a tranny service fuel filter and front brakes over 2500 dollars 🙄 I’m sure I can do it all myself with the help of your content. Thanks mate 😉
@@MrBlompod Sorry, replied with the wrong account above! Yeah, sounds like you have a really nice car there! $2500 is crazy money! In the UK, you can get it done by Mercedes Benz for £400 (about $500). Get a few quotes if you don't want to DIY it, I'm sure you can do a lot better. Maybe ask for a recommendation for a shop near where you live from www.benzworld.org/forums/ And actually, the DIY isn't too difficult but can be time consuming, make sure you have all of the tools, parts, materials before you start and allow the full weekend to do it, if you are a first timer. Thanks, Phil
Phil, quick question immediately after doing the transmission service the engine light came on. I used my OBDII reader, it says the oil temperature sensor is out, I have no idea where that is. Can you give me a little Direction?
Hi Tom, I haven't come across this problem before but have done a little bit of reading. Seems that there is a temperature sensor inside the gearbox. Also, there is a controller that communicates with it (and presumably does other functions too). I am happy to help you search for the answer though! Could you please tell me what fault code you are getting? Here is a link to a MB forum that touches on the issue: forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/auto-box-temperature-sensor-fault.60861/
@@ReviveMyRide thank you Phil. The code is "P0195 Powertrain oil temperature sensor"
@@tom1031000 I checked on the Mercedes forums, and they are saying the P0195 fault is: Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Malfunction (not powertrain). If so, this is good news because it is easy to get to and inexpensive to replace. Assuming you have got the same engine as featured in the video 3.0 vg diesel (OM642 engine), then the following diagram (item number 40 is the sensor) should help you locate and get a part number for the sensor. I would start by disconnecting the electrical connection from the sensor, cleaning it with electrical cleaner, checking the wire for obvious damage. If that all looks ok, replace the sensor. This is the sensor: tidd.ly/2Lr3JIg (but best to double check that it fits your car) This is the parts diagram: nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/m/642910/63h/15/105/?chasis=20932069M Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Your video is very well made including real good audio. It is very different from other DIY video. Thank you. Just wandering if it work for B200 CDI 2012, Model W246?
Hi, thanks, really appreciate your comment! :-) I did a bit of research and it looks like your car has a very different gearbox fitted to the one that features in this video. You will want to double check but it looks like your gearbox is the CVT 722.8 gearbox. I think my video will be good for "principles" of a gearbox fluid change but there will be a lot of details that are different. For example, it looks like you can fill your gearbox from the top, you can get a dipstick for your gearbox so that you can do the level check, of course it uses a different fluid etc. There will be other variables too. I did find some videos on RUclips for your gearbox, so if you search specifically for your gearbox type, you will hopefully find some more information specifically for your transmission. Hope this helps!
Thank you, I suspect W246 automatic transmission is different from
w245 (which is the CVT 722.8 you mentioned). I am not sure. If you have infor, please help us owners of Diesel W246 (not W245) make a video. Cheers
Will try mine
Sounds good! thanks for your comment! Good to hear when someone decides to give it a go. I found it a little time consuming but not that difficult... 👍
This is excellent :)
Thanks so much! 😃
Pretty sure the transmission holds 9L of transmission fluid?
Yes, it is 9L in total but very difficult to drain all of it. If you do the pan and the torque converter that would be about 7L. The standard Mercedes procedure would never drain all of it. Thanks, Phil
Hi my friend.. Im really struggling to find out information on my vito.. Would you know.. How I can change my transmission fluid.. I have a 2001 meacades vito petrol automatic year 2001 model 113..2ltr... I took the radiator off to repair and on the right side it has to cooler pipes which I assume are transmission fluid pipes with taking them off I lost fluid.. Now I assume this is transmission meaning gear fluid I'm not sure.. But I can't find anyone or anything that can explain where I refill or check fluid... All I can see on top is a blue plastic screw with a tiny hole.. Theres no dipstic.. I just want to know when I took off the radiator was these two pipes transmission fluid or something else and if so how do I refill.. I'm actually doing the van up and for over 40years of fixing and rebuilding had such a brain ache on a van.. The meacades manual is pretty useless... I've put a new water pump on.. And never want to do one ever again. It was very hard but done it... With no room to hardly get the serpinebelt on but did it in the end.. Anyway I would really appreciate it if someone anyone can explain to me what the two pipes I took off the radiator and if its transmission how the hell do I refill... Many thanks Paul
Hi Paul, sounds like you have been keeping busy! I haven't worked on one of these before but have done a bit of research to see if I can help. I'm sure you already know this but your version of the Vito is the W638, also known as the V class and the auto transmission is the ZF 4HP20. It does have a transmission oil cooler. See the following diagram. If you detached pipe 38 or 41, then will have lost transmission fluid. nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/3/fg/638014/50m/27/750/ There's a lot on the forums saying it is really important to use the right oil and the oil codes are: esso atf lt 71141
and mercedes benz a 001 989 2203. If you are topping up, you will probably want to use fluid from the main dealer but apparently Citroen run the same transmission and it is cheaper from them: Z000169756. Please double check the numbers above when you are purchasing, so make sure it is suitable for your transmission! From what I have read, the blue plastic plug you mentioned is where you fill the gearbox. Regarding filling & level check. The process is similar to in my video: With the level plug removed, fill through the top (the one with the blue plastic cap) until fluid starts to run out of the level plug. Put the plugs back in. Run the greabox up to temperature, step the gear selector through its various positions, then remove the level plug once again to drain off the excess. I found this guide which should hopefully help you, good luck with it! www.qclt.com/html/%E6%A0%87%E8%87%B4307_607%E7%BB%B4%E4%BF%AE%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8C/607/info/gb/b2ci08k3.htm
@@ReviveMyRide.. Hi buddy.. Thanks for your reply.. Brilliant.. It's basically what I needed to know.. I actually managed yesterday with a headtorch get under the van looking for a drain bolt.. Which I found then noticed up the side of the case another Allen key bolt.. Which I think is the one you take out and when you fill from the top it will overflow from that bolt.. And the blue plug yes for filling.. But today your information you have sent me.. Has confirmed this.. I can only say to many thanks for the time and help. Brilliant.... Many thanks Paul from Jersey Channel Islands uk.. But a Devon boy.. Stuck in a lock down transition... 😂 👍
@@pb6972 Great! glad the info helped to confirm what you had seen. :-) Good luck getting it sorted! Stay safe, hope you get home soon (and with a working van!) cheers...
@@ReviveMyRide... No honestly.. You don't realise how you're help.. And information.. Was very much appreciated..... And I can't get no help here.. It's hard work trying to explain to people who here are very unqualified.. But know everything no nothing type of people... 😂.... Anyway I will be following your site now for tips and things... I am also adopting you as my new brother.. Haha... No seriously.. Thank you.. wash your hands and keep your distance.. And most of all to everyone in such a hard time remember there's people worse off then your selfs.... Keep smiling and let not lose are sense of humour... Many thanks Paul a Devon boy stuck in the channel islands Jersey since last January..
😉
Happy to help and great to have you as a subscriber! :-)