Tip 4: don’t lift off for downshifting or up shifting when shifting manually. The computer got you. Don’t confuse it. What other tips do people have? P.S. check out my 10 tips for bulletproof engine: ruclips.net/video/cGTu1VkR60I/видео.html
I don't agree with two of your tips, the first one is not to change gears manually - if I let it change itself, then it shifts to a higher gear with which it cannot be accelerated, so you have to wait a few seconds to change the gear, and then it's too late, so do it manually I always keep it in a lower gear so that it spins, another tip is to relax the pressure on the gas pedal: then the gearbox has to slow down or speed up the rotating parts through friction, which wears out those friction surfaces and thus the entire gearbox, so when shifting from a lower to a higher gear, you need to ease off the gas ( don't take your foot off the gas) so that the difference in revolutions is as small as possible, when changing the gear to a lower one, increase the gas a little in order not to brake the engine and thus wear the gearbox.I have been doing this for years and when changing the oil in the gearbox, the oil is almost completely clean
On the 7-speed watch out carefully while test driving, if the up-shift jerks even a little bit, run away. This is a problem that will eventually get worse and be really annoying in start and stop traffic, essentially the 1st gear doesn't engage for 0,5 seconds (occasionally, not always) and then it will slam on with a big jerk. I had this issue in my C320 4-matic (2008) and the dealership was not able to fix it.
@@makantahi3731I have an amt honda civic i-shift and I drive in manual mode most of the time. When I change gear I take my foot of the accelerator so I don't interrupt the revs going down, once the revs have gone down I replace my foot on the accelerator. Previous owner wore the clutch at 75k kilometres and I replaced it at 85k and now is at 105k.Hope mine lasts a long time, I am thinking of selling this car as the gear change interval takes a long time. Also my wife has a Dacia Stepway amt, this car shudders like anything in 1st gear, Renault garage don't even know what the problem is, they are just giving us baloney.
That’s what the green up arrow is for when you’re in manual mode, it tells you when the car would shift for maximum fuel economy. In a non-AMG also “manual” shifting is really just a gear limiter, the car will not listen to your shift commands anyways if it doesn’t want to be in that gear.
I believe the 7G trannies were link connected to the transmission. I know my 2004 SL500 was. My 7G-plus that I now have is completely electronically controlled.
%100 agree!!! Do NOT keep you hand on the shifter!!! Auto or manual. These are NOT shift by wire as stated. There is a shift locator module in the floor shifter that will fail prematurely because of minor movements over time. You may physically be in drive, but as soon as that sensor looses position for a split second, limp home mode... 😭
In addition to the mileage requirements for changing tranny fluid, there are also time limits. Some cars have low mileage but are beyond the recommended time limit for changing. For example, my 2015 SL400 has 45,000 miles. The maintenance manual says to change the tranny fluid and filter every 77,500 miles or five years. Not realizing the time limit, I just recently changed the tranny fluid (dealer service) with the car being 9 years old.
You’re 💯 right! Thanks for adding that to the list of recommendations for others to follow. Don’t forget to hit the like button so that more Mercedes owners see the video 🤝
Good catch. I sounded confusing about dates in the video. I was talking about the dates when 5g and 7g made appearance in w211 chassis specifically. Otherwise, 722.6 was introduced in 1996, you’re right. Regarding shift by wire. My point about not resting your hands on the shifter is more true about transmissions with mechanical connections. My car is equipped with 7g and it is shift by wire, isn’t it?
Nice video,I never really felt the need to shift with the shifter as you point out the computer knows.722.6 electrical connecter plug can leak and oil travels up the connecter cable to the tcu and can flood unit in severe cases!
@@AccentOnCarsI normally keep my car in manual mode it is a Honda Civic i-shift.Would it be better to drive it mainly in automatic mode? My wife has a Dacia Stepway amt transmission and it shudders really badly in gear one, she always drives in automatic mode. Renault garage can't fix it and don't know what the problem is(even though they pretend to know)
The 7G is a workhorse. Just keep the maintenance schedules, repair small issues immediately, keep your hands off and let it do it's own thing and it will serve you well for a lifetime. These will never pperform like DCT's, so it's pointless to try and push them.
@@anona3918 No it's not. 5G is an old generation sequential box and is forced to use an intermediate gear when skipping gears.Huge difference. The 7G is also generally better performing with higher/more granulated resolution across the rev range (i.e better torque management) it weighs quite a bit less than the 5G and is more fuel efficient too. The 5G was fine for the years it belongs to but the 7G is the undisputed choice among the two. The 7G is probably one of best and most reliable boxes in the torque converter series from Merc. And the 9G takes things a big step up from 7G and is pretty much the best you get before going DCT.
Another test is put it in drive put your foot on the break and hit the selector for cruise and sports mode. It should not jerk at all if it does then you’ve got some issues coming up. That’s a real simple way.
I didn’t know about it. But I guess that’s a test for transmission mounts. When you switch from Comfort to Sport it basically shifts from second to first. Since you’re doing it in stationary it’s expected to get some sensation but should not be too bad. I am not sure what touching cruise control would do as it won’t even engage below 20 mph
I will do that next time I get a Mazda for review 🤝. So far, I have had one Mazda and I talk about engine there: ruclips.net/video/LoD-3xHOKRA/видео.html
@@AccentOnCars hey thanks for the link man yeah these are a lot of car for the money especially the way they were priced 3 years ago you used to be able to get that car with the turbo for 33K now the turbo starts at almost 39,000 however in my opinion all the reasons they call that vehicle old and outdated is exactly why it's good, The transmission is like a hybrid between a dual clutch and torque converter
I have a 996 Turbo with a 722.6 tiptronic. I drive it in manual mode all the time because the thing will shift into 5th gear when you're going 40 mph. If I reset the TCU, it will shift abit more firm and hold gears longer but once it relearns it goes back to granny shifting.
I had an 01 e320 until about a year ago. It shifted very smoothly, and you could never feel it. However, if you stepped on it, even just a little, it sounded like someone shifting a manual geatbox. Kind of a clutching gear change sound, but you didn't feel it. I thought it was the weirdest automatic gearbox I have ever had, but kinda cool. Is that normal for these?
In 6 (or more, presumably) cylinder models, the transmission is programmed to take off in 2nd gear, unless you hit the gas/accelerator beyond a threshold, which will initiate an immediate kickdown to 1st for takeoff. That might be what you've perceived... though you didn't specifically indicate takeoff as the event. Otherwise, you might just be describing a generic kickdown, from any speed where a lower gear is available and called for via the gas/accelerator.
You most likely had a worn transmission bushing which let the transmission move too much and cause a sound while accelerating harder. The gearbox itself makes practically zero sound.
What you forgot to mention is on the VAG systems data has to be copied and then put onto the new conductor plate. It’s an antitheft scenario. You can’t just change the conductor plate and get away with it. The car won’t start. On the VA plate set ups. Data must be retrieved and then inputted on the new conductor plate. That’s why it’s so expensive because only certain dealerships and garages can do that.
💯 correct. 5g transmissions didn’t require coding but 7g does. But I forgot if you still need reprogramming 7g if you change conductor plate together with the valve body.
true. just the one thng I do wrong is...I shift my gear my self...but I have always done that to all my cars...and never broken one, and I drove them a lot the last one I have even longer- . BUT...I do not to it up down up..but more as an lory driver style. to use the engine breake. and keep my engine in higer rpm. since I have a diesel. and I have an 7 speed transmission..
Great advice. The same can be said for manual transmission guys who rest their hand on the shifter. You are wearing out the throw-out bearing. What I really like about the AMG 7speed is the ability manually lockout higher gears. In sport mode I can use the paddles and limit the amount of gears. It seems to hold each gears longer before upshifting.
Noone asked nor mentioned is it recommended to change it to N when you are waiting, for example for a red light. I practice to change it to N when I know I will wait more than 10,20 seconds, because of heat generating in torque converter. Otherwise, when I am in dense traffic with short stops, I don't move it from D. Someone says this should be done, someone says not, but my logic is why to torture it when you know that you will be at standstill for half a minute or minute, change it to N to let it "relax"... I see you are well informed about those stuff, i will like to hear your opinion.
That’s a good question. I put it in neutral only if the stopping time is more than a minute. For example, if the traffic fully stopped or there is a train passing. I don’t shift into neutral on red lights and stuff. The computer does all necessary things for you. Actually, I read that you “hurt” more by frequent shifts from D-N-D as the converter and engines are out of sync when in N, and shifting into D causes a minor slippage until the clutch locks. In a nutshell, don’t overthink it. Enjoy it.
I also shift to N for longer stops (+ 1 minute) and when I’ve had to brake hard, to let the discs cool so they don’t get distorted. I’m always able to get maximum lifespan out of my discs without any vibrations.
Hello! Thanks for the informative video! I have a cls 350 cdi 2012 with thr 722.9. When I am on Economy, in traffic situations, the shift from 2nd to 3d or 3d to 2nd feels like an earlier shift of a manual car. It's like you when you release the clutch a bit early on a manual car and you feel that the car "breaks" a short bit and you are pushed a little bit forward. I hope you understand what I mean. Its not a hit but I definitely feel the gear change and happens only when i move from still in traffic or when upshifts 2nd to 3d or downshifts 3d to 2nd. Based on your experience what could it be? Already did the reset and adaption from star, changed oil and did the manual reset with key and throttle pedal. Regards!
Sorry to hear about that. It’s really hard to say with 100% certainty without diagnosis, but some generic suggestions are: - service the transmission fluid and filter. Inspect the fluid for any metallic shavings - have latest transmission control unit software version installed and calibrated
My c450/c43 does the same thing, 4th to 5th in manual mode is hars but sometimes not, depends on gas pedal position 😅 mine is well maintained car and gearbox, i'dbsay its just 7G tronic feature, does the same in eco mode when going down in gears just like yours
Thanks for chiming in. That’s very strange about the fluid color though: my 2013 E550 had blue fluid. I saw it with my own eyes as the MB tech at the dealership emptied and filled it. The fluid in w211 E63 is red.
If a 722.9+ has not been serviced, say for 10 years or 125k+ miles, is it still advisable to change the fluid or should you leave it alone? There seems to be conflicting information in online communities. Some will say change the fluid ASAP, and others will talk of varnish buildup on the valve body being dislodged by the new detergent fluid and therefore causing issues.
I don’t have a definitive answer either. If we think logically, if the oil was dirty then the problems would reveal themselves or will likely start to happen soon anyway even if you don’t touch it. So it may be worth replacing fluid, filter and examining the condition at the same time. Maybe some cleaning of the components will be needed. On the other hand, if you’re not planning on keeping the car much longer then don’t bother.
Change the fluid, filter and gasket, do NOT do a flush. You will be fine. I changed my buddy’s fluid at 136K that was the first change, after the change, shifting improved dramatically, have done another fluid filter and gasket job on that at 150K and after that every 40K changes. He sold the car at 365K a year ago and it was still the original transmission. 2005 E320 4Matic with 722.6
AMG transmissions are snappier than non-AMG. If your transmission doesn’t feel like it’s slipping and operates well otherwise, then it’s probably just fine.
@@AccentOnCars Cold startup under 50 degrees F results in agressive Start Off Clutch to grab too much. Causes bucking...aggravating. Mercedes was aware 2009 SL63 AMG. I have to slowly engage the Slowly engage STO to avoid harsh engagement.
6:28 Can you please explain how did your speed sensor failure manifest itself? What were the symptoms? Sometimes I experience slippage from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd and rough downshifts uphill or downhill. Not all the time, sometimes it happens when cold, sometimes when hot... I have the 722.6 or 5G-Tronic. Thanks.
Mine would get stuck in gear. One time it got stuck in 5th gear as I was merging the highway at slow speeds. It took me ages to build speed. I was so embarrassed 😂 Your symptoms are definitely not good. Definitely could be the conductor plate. But slippage is unfortunately the sign of hardware failures. Get it scanned. Hopefully it doesn’t actually slip and just feels like that to you. I used to have e350 with 5g and ignored rough shifts until the transmission took a cr*p completely. It should shift smoothly.
@@AccentOnCars They can identify slipping by scannig? I thought they need to drive the car. I might take it to a well known local shop that specifies in repairing conductor plates and components. Thanks
@@AccentOnCars man mine shifts like that sometimes but Ive done the proper maintenance since new.. changing the conductor plate helped a lot though. So might be a solenoid.
i have the 2 - 1 downshift clunk, like a loud clunk sound when coming to a stop, i have been going crazy about to do a rebuild, have you heard of this?
I have a 9g and sometimes gears get stack on 2nd gear or 1st! Sometimes there is different symptoms like clutch slip feeling. I usually switch off and back on again and gets back to normal. Millage is 72k. I am suspicious about speed sensor but will risk a transmission oil and filter change and see what happens. Just waiting for better weather in uk lol😂 when I asked mercedes about conducting plate they said it needs to be programmed and they wouldn’t sell it to anyone but there authorised repairers. they sell reconditioned units so they want old one back.
Get it diagnosed for sure. Changing the fluids may help. Give it a shot it you are willing to try. And that’s right, I got mine done by an authorized independent shop too.
Sounds like transmission oil low. I once changed my transmission oil, and didn't put enough in, it slipped 1 to 2 gear. I topped up and issues went away.
7g-tronic jerky when i press the gas when the car it's down shifting automatically I fell a jerk like if I don't give the car enough time to down shift, and the car car has to down shift abruptly
I have a 2014 E350 V6 diesel with the 7g tronic. When it's cold, it shifts up gears fine. But when I slow down it harshly kicks down back to first. But only about 3 times until it has warmed up then it's smooth again. Why?
These tend to act up when cold. If the issue persists regardless of the temp, it’s time to look further. Also, make sure you service it on time and software updates are installed.
🇵🇹My Mercedes A180 D, automatic transmission, has an extremely uncomfortable symptom. After the start/stop acts, when starting off there is a “jolt” or sudden movement that, in addition to being uncomfortable for the driver's neck, makes parking maneuvers extremely difficult and dangerous! I delivered the car to Mercedes with the aforementioned complaint and saying that this problem had not occurred before. It came into existence after a review with a gearbox oil change at Mercedes. At Mercedes they told me that there is no defect in the gearbox or clutch. And this feeling is normal! My advice is, don't buy the Mercedes A 180D and if you already have one, wait because one of these days you will suffer from this sudden crash not recognized by Mercedes🤨!!!
@@Munakas-wq3gp 🇵🇹Dear friend, I can say that in Portugal I finally found a workshop outside of Mercedes dealerships that solved my problem. What he did was program the clutch and gearbox, both with the car stationary and in motion, always controlling the engine temperature, in addition to controlling the temperature of the gearbox oil. I can't say anything more, simply that the car was impeccable!!!⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐!
@@franciscocaetano2908 Nice to hear it worked for you. I ended up trading my car for a CLK500 with the old bulletproof 722.6. During the first winter I realized I made a horrible mistake to go back to rear wheel drive 😂 Kept that car for only 2 years and then went back to 4-matics.
I have this issue too in my '12 C300. I tried to search about it and found a lot of people have it too but they brush it off and learn to live with it. Happens to so many of cars so that most people find it to be the gear box characteristic. I, too, have learned to press the brake more firmly doing parallel parking.
@@haiducchu ruclips.net/video/xHjP3XhZRZU/видео.htmlsi=GuIJTXPNucxBJx0R The workshop that solve the problem of my A 180 d, post RUclips videos about problems at gear box. He has post many, the link is about one of them!
Tip 4: don’t lift off for downshifting or up shifting when shifting manually. The computer got you. Don’t confuse it. What other tips do people have?
P.S. check out my 10 tips for bulletproof engine: ruclips.net/video/cGTu1VkR60I/видео.html
I don't agree with two of your tips, the first one is not to change gears manually - if I let it change itself, then it shifts to a higher gear with which it cannot be accelerated, so you have to wait a few seconds to change the gear, and then it's too late, so do it manually I always keep it in a lower gear so that it spins, another tip is to relax the pressure on the gas pedal: then the gearbox has to slow down or speed up the rotating parts through friction, which wears out those friction surfaces and thus the entire gearbox, so when shifting from a lower to a higher gear, you need to ease off the gas ( don't take your foot off the gas) so that the difference in revolutions is as small as possible, when changing the gear to a lower one, increase the gas a little in order not to brake the engine and thus wear the gearbox.I have been doing this for years and when changing the oil in the gearbox, the oil is almost completely clean
On the 7-speed watch out carefully while test driving, if the up-shift jerks even a little bit, run away. This is a problem that will eventually get worse and be really annoying in start and stop traffic, essentially the 1st gear doesn't engage for 0,5 seconds (occasionally, not always) and then it will slam on with a big jerk. I had this issue in my C320 4-matic (2008) and the dealership was not able to fix it.
@@makantahi3731I have an amt honda civic i-shift and I drive in manual mode most of the time. When I change gear I take my foot of the accelerator so I don't interrupt the revs going down, once the revs have gone down I replace my foot on the accelerator. Previous owner wore the clutch at 75k kilometres and I replaced it at 85k and now is at 105k.Hope mine lasts a long time, I am thinking of selling this car as the gear change interval takes a long time. Also my wife has a Dacia Stepway amt, this car shudders like anything in 1st gear, Renault garage don't even know what the problem is, they are just giving us baloney.
That’s what the green up arrow is for when you’re in manual mode, it tells you when the car would shift for maximum fuel economy. In a non-AMG also “manual” shifting is really just a gear limiter, the car will not listen to your shift commands anyways if it doesn’t want to be in that gear.
I believe the 7G trannies were link connected to the transmission. I know my 2004 SL500 was. My 7G-plus that I now have is completely electronically controlled.
You could see the linkage at the bottom in the video he linked lol.
I ROFL at tip number 3 🤣 Quote of the day, “It’s not your gf leg” - accentoncars 😂
you have good sense of humor my man! keep it sprinkled in your videos, very good information! thanks
Thank you for the comment! Comments like this really make me happy and inspire to create more videos 🤝👍
%100 agree!!! Do NOT keep you hand on the shifter!!! Auto or manual. These are NOT shift by wire as stated. There is a shift locator module in the floor shifter that will fail prematurely because of minor movements over time.
You may physically be in drive, but as soon as that sensor looses position for a split second, limp home mode... 😭
In addition to the mileage requirements for changing tranny fluid, there are also time limits. Some cars have low mileage but are beyond the recommended time limit for changing. For example, my 2015 SL400 has 45,000 miles. The maintenance manual says to change the tranny fluid and filter every 77,500 miles or five years. Not realizing the time limit, I just recently changed the tranny fluid (dealer service) with the car being 9 years old.
You’re 💯 right! Thanks for adding that to the list of recommendations for others to follow. Don’t forget to hit the like button so that more Mercedes owners see the video 🤝
it is NOT shift by wire! as your video shows, there's a mechanical link to the transmission. also, 5G tronic was introduced way back in 96 in the W140
Good catch. I sounded confusing about dates in the video. I was talking about the dates when 5g and 7g made appearance in w211 chassis specifically. Otherwise, 722.6 was introduced in 1996, you’re right.
Regarding shift by wire. My point about not resting your hands on the shifter is more true about transmissions with mechanical connections. My car is equipped with 7g and it is shift by wire, isn’t it?
The 7g cars with the shifter on the steering has no physical connection to the gearbox. It has an icm module that shifts between D N R P
Nice video,I never really felt the need to shift with the shifter as you point out the computer knows.722.6 electrical connecter plug can leak and oil travels up the connecter cable to the tcu and can flood unit in severe cases!
Thanks 🙏 And yes, that’s another potential issue 👍
@@AccentOnCarsI normally keep my car in manual mode it is a Honda Civic i-shift.Would it be better to drive it mainly in automatic mode? My wife has a Dacia Stepway amt transmission and it shudders really badly in gear one, she always drives in automatic mode. Renault garage can't fix it and don't know what the problem is(even though they pretend to know)
The 7G is a workhorse. Just keep the maintenance schedules, repair small issues immediately, keep your hands off and let it do it's own thing and it will serve you well for a lifetime. These will never pperform like DCT's, so it's pointless to try and push them.
7g is garbage compared to the 5g 722.6
Why want your car to shift a thousand times to catch up speed rather than have a few long and powerful gears.
@@anona3918 No it's not. 5G is an old generation sequential box and is forced to use an intermediate gear when skipping gears.Huge difference. The 7G is also generally better performing with higher/more granulated resolution across the rev range (i.e better torque management) it weighs quite a bit less than the 5G and is more fuel efficient too. The 5G was fine for the years it belongs to but the 7G is the undisputed choice among the two. The 7G is probably one of best and most reliable boxes in the torque converter series from Merc. And the 9G takes things a big step up from 7G and is pretty much the best you get before going DCT.
I’ve seen issues with the orings on the solenoids going bad as well.
You can drain the torque converter also when doing the service
Another test is put it in drive put your foot on the break and hit the selector for cruise and sports mode. It should not jerk at all if it does then you’ve got some issues coming up. That’s a real simple way.
I didn’t know about it. But I guess that’s a test for transmission mounts. When you switch from Comfort to Sport it basically shifts from second to first. Since you’re doing it in stationary it’s expected to get some sensation but should not be too bad. I am not sure what touching cruise control would do as it won’t even engage below 20 mph
Great technical video. I wish you would do a video on mazda transmissions. There us so little youtube videos out there.
I will do that next time I get a Mazda for review 🤝. So far, I have had one Mazda and I talk about engine there: ruclips.net/video/LoD-3xHOKRA/видео.html
@@AccentOnCars hey thanks for the link man yeah these are a lot of car for the money especially the way they were priced 3 years ago you used to be able to get that car with the turbo for 33K now the turbo starts at almost 39,000 however in my opinion all the reasons they call that vehicle old and outdated is exactly why it's good, The transmission is like a hybrid between a dual clutch and torque converter
I agree 👍 I think Mazda makes cars that are fun to drive and look great compared to the same class models from Toyota and Honda.
I have a 996 Turbo with a 722.6 tiptronic. I drive it in manual mode all the time because the thing will shift into 5th gear when you're going 40 mph. If I reset the TCU, it will shift abit more firm and hold gears longer but once it relearns it goes back to granny shifting.
The 7 speed behaves the same for emissions reason. When I want to enjoy it, Manual is the way to go.
P.S. I didn't know Porsche used MB transmissions.
@@AccentOnCars the 993, 996 and 997.1 used them and i believe some of the boxsters do as well.
👍
“Looking at the peasants, looking for the BMW M owners so we can humiliate them” Greatest saying ever. You got my like. 🤣
😂🤝
I had an 01 e320 until about a year ago. It shifted very smoothly, and you could never feel it.
However, if you stepped on it, even just a little, it sounded like someone shifting a manual geatbox. Kind of a clutching gear change sound, but you didn't feel it.
I thought it was the weirdest automatic gearbox I have ever had, but kinda cool.
Is that normal for these?
In 6 (or more, presumably) cylinder models, the transmission is programmed to take off in 2nd gear, unless you hit the gas/accelerator beyond a threshold, which will initiate an immediate kickdown to 1st for takeoff. That might be what you've perceived... though you didn't specifically indicate takeoff as the event. Otherwise, you might just be describing a generic kickdown, from any speed where a lower gear is available and called for via the gas/accelerator.
You most likely had a worn transmission bushing which let the transmission move too much and cause a sound while accelerating harder. The gearbox itself makes practically zero sound.
What you forgot to mention is on the VAG systems data has to be copied and then put onto the new conductor plate. It’s an antitheft scenario. You can’t just change the conductor plate and get away with it. The car won’t start. On the VA plate set ups. Data must be retrieved and then inputted on the new conductor plate. That’s why it’s so expensive because only certain dealerships and garages can do that.
💯 correct. 5g transmissions didn’t require coding but 7g does. But I forgot if you still need reprogramming 7g if you change conductor plate together with the valve body.
true. just the one thng I do wrong is...I shift my gear my self...but I have always done that to all my cars...and never broken one, and I drove them a lot the last one I have even longer- . BUT...I do not to it up down up..but more as an lory driver style. to use the engine breake. and keep my engine in higer rpm. since I have a diesel. and I have an 7 speed transmission..
🤝
Great advice. The same can be said for manual transmission guys who rest their hand on the shifter. You are wearing out the throw-out bearing.
What I really like about the AMG 7speed is the ability manually lockout higher gears. In sport mode I can use the paddles and limit the amount of gears. It seems to hold each gears longer before upshifting.
🤝
Not true. The throw out bearing is not linked to the gear shifter in any way.
@@energymc22 my mistake. It’s the shift fork and collar that will be damaged.
The throw out bearing is part of the clutch linkage.
Noone asked nor mentioned is it recommended to change it to N when you are waiting, for example for a red light. I practice to change it to N when I know I will wait more than 10,20 seconds, because of heat generating in torque converter. Otherwise, when I am in dense traffic with short stops, I don't move it from D. Someone says this should be done, someone says not, but my logic is why to torture it when you know that you will be at standstill for half a minute or minute, change it to N to let it "relax"... I see you are well informed about those stuff, i will like to hear your opinion.
That’s a good question. I put it in neutral only if the stopping time is more than a minute. For example, if the traffic fully stopped or there is a train passing. I don’t shift into neutral on red lights and stuff. The computer does all necessary things for you. Actually, I read that you “hurt” more by frequent shifts from D-N-D as the converter and engines are out of sync when in N, and shifting into D causes a minor slippage until the clutch locks. In a nutshell, don’t overthink it. Enjoy it.
@@AccentOnCars Thank you, брате😁 That is how I actually do, but just needed a confirmation from you.
🤝🤝🤝
I also shift to N for longer stops (+ 1 minute) and when I’ve had to brake hard, to let the discs cool so they don’t get distorted. I’m always able to get maximum lifespan out of my discs without any vibrations.
Hello!
Thanks for the informative video! I have a cls 350 cdi 2012 with thr 722.9. When I am on Economy, in traffic situations, the shift from 2nd to 3d or 3d to 2nd feels like an earlier shift of a manual car. It's like you when you release the clutch a bit early on a manual car and you feel that the car "breaks" a short bit and you are pushed a little bit forward. I hope you understand what I mean. Its not a hit but I definitely feel the gear change and happens only when i move from still in traffic or when upshifts 2nd to 3d or downshifts 3d to 2nd. Based on your experience what could it be? Already did the reset and adaption from star, changed oil and did the manual reset with key and throttle pedal.
Regards!
Sorry to hear about that. It’s really hard to say with 100% certainty without diagnosis, but some generic suggestions are:
- service the transmission fluid and filter. Inspect the fluid for any metallic shavings
- have latest transmission control unit software version installed and calibrated
My c450/c43 does the same thing, 4th to 5th in manual mode is hars but sometimes not, depends on gas pedal position 😅
mine is well maintained car and gearbox, i'dbsay its just 7G tronic feature, does the same in eco mode when going down in gears just like yours
The 7G tronik uses only green fluid!.236.15 The video was very good!!!
Thanks for chiming in. That’s very strange about the fluid color though: my 2013 E550 had blue fluid. I saw it with my own eyes as the MB tech at the dealership emptied and filled it. The fluid in w211 E63 is red.
mine is red
@munashe89 it should be red in earlier 7g and blue in later years 7g plus.
If a 722.9+ has not been serviced, say for 10 years or 125k+ miles, is it still advisable to change the fluid or should you leave it alone?
There seems to be conflicting information in online communities. Some will say change the fluid ASAP, and others will talk of varnish buildup on the valve body being dislodged by the new detergent fluid and therefore causing issues.
I don’t have a definitive answer either. If we think logically, if the oil was dirty then the problems would reveal themselves or will likely start to happen soon anyway even if you don’t touch it. So it may be worth replacing fluid, filter and examining the condition at the same time. Maybe some cleaning of the components will be needed. On the other hand, if you’re not planning on keeping the car much longer then don’t bother.
I was exactly in the same situation.
I did a fluid and filter change
Everything was ok, no problem at all
@@totome2206 Thank you for your response!
Change the fluid, filter and gasket, do NOT do a flush. You will be fine.
I changed my buddy’s fluid at 136K that was the first change, after the change, shifting improved dramatically, have done another fluid filter and gasket job on that at 150K and after that every 40K changes. He sold the car at 365K a year ago and it was still the original transmission. 2005 E320 4Matic with 722.6
@@commodoreras Again, very much appreciate the feedback. 🙏
What about long shifts? I dont feel like my transmission is as snappy as the clip you showed on this video
AMG transmissions are snappier than non-AMG. If your transmission doesn’t feel like it’s slipping and operates well otherwise, then it’s probably just fine.
At high mileage toque converter lock solenoid will fix the problem.
👍
MCT AMG 7G’s can feel jerky on down shift as a general characteristic.
Haven’t had MCT equipped car, I have heard later year ones are smoother. Is that true?
@@AccentOnCars Cold startup under 50 degrees F results in agressive Start Off Clutch to grab too much. Causes bucking...aggravating. Mercedes was aware 2009 SL63 AMG. I have to slowly engage the Slowly engage STO to avoid harsh engagement.
Be Specific
Benz with 4 speed Automatic are unbreakable
W124
W201
W126
W140
After that the 5 speed boxes onwards. were troublesome ✅
Does the w204 c63 have the 7g tronic plus transmission for all years?
No, MCT was installed in later year cars!
6:28 Can you please explain how did your speed sensor failure manifest itself? What were the symptoms? Sometimes I experience slippage from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd and rough downshifts uphill or downhill. Not all the time, sometimes it happens when cold, sometimes when hot... I have the 722.6 or 5G-Tronic. Thanks.
Mine would get stuck in gear. One time it got stuck in 5th gear as I was merging the highway at slow speeds. It took me ages to build speed. I was so embarrassed 😂 Your symptoms are definitely not good. Definitely could be the conductor plate. But slippage is unfortunately the sign of hardware failures. Get it scanned. Hopefully it doesn’t actually slip and just feels like that to you.
I used to have e350 with 5g and ignored rough shifts until the transmission took a cr*p completely. It should shift smoothly.
@@AccentOnCars They can identify slipping by scannig? I thought they need to drive the car. I might take it to a well known local shop that specifies in repairing conductor plates and components. Thanks
@@AccentOnCarswhat were rough shifts like?
Down and up shifts are roughly. Almost feels like clunking noise from under you. Happens when slowing down usually.
@@AccentOnCars man mine shifts like that sometimes but Ive done the proper maintenance since new.. changing the conductor plate helped a lot though. So might be a solenoid.
Great video
Thanks for watching! 😎
i have the 2 - 1 downshift clunk, like a loud clunk sound when coming to a stop, i have been going crazy about to do a rebuild, have you heard of this?
Most likely it’s one of the issues I talked about in the video. 2-1 can be a bit rough at times but clunking is not a good sign.
I have a 9g and sometimes gears get stack on 2nd gear or 1st! Sometimes there is different symptoms like clutch slip feeling. I usually switch off and back on again and gets back to normal. Millage is 72k. I am suspicious about speed sensor but will risk a transmission oil and filter change and see what happens. Just waiting for better weather in uk lol😂 when I asked mercedes about conducting plate they said it needs to be programmed and they wouldn’t sell it to anyone but there authorised repairers. they sell reconditioned units so they want old one back.
Get it diagnosed for sure. Changing the fluids may help. Give it a shot it you are willing to try. And that’s right, I got mine done by an authorized independent shop too.
I can’t believe you done the head bolts and all the other work but didn’t attempt gearbox. Makes me think shell I just get it done 🤔
I don’t have a lift and don’t like being under the car on jack stands for too long.
😂 I feel the same about jacks and stands. I was going to use railway wood ( thick) and raise the suspension as i have the raising option 😂
Sounds like transmission oil low. I once changed my transmission oil, and didn't put enough in, it slipped 1 to 2 gear. I topped up and issues went away.
7g-tronic jerky when i press the gas when the car it's down shifting automatically I fell a jerk like if I don't give the car enough time to down shift, and the car car has to down shift abruptly
Very likely it’s the conductor plate like I discussed in the video .
I have a 2014 E350 V6 diesel with the 7g tronic. When it's cold, it shifts up gears fine. But when I slow down it harshly kicks down back to first. But only about 3 times until it has warmed up then it's smooth again. Why?
These tend to act up when cold. If the issue persists regardless of the temp, it’s time to look further. Also, make sure you service it on time and software updates are installed.
change oil
I've read that jerkiness when cold was relatively common on the 7g
It can act up when cold. But shouldn’t when warm. 👍
@@AccentOnCars that's mine. Some 3rd gear unhappiness when cold. An animal warmed up
Reset adaptation through Star and see if that helps at all. Just be gentle while it’s warming up, bro.
@@AccentOnCars thanks will do
@@OGYELLOW i have a 43000 miles w204 c63 and it is silk smooth cold and warm
Mine 7G tronic plus, electric plate replaced on 80km😢
Sorry to hear that. Mine was replaced too. It happens sometimes. 😉
722.6 was used produced in 1997
I
LOVE
DRIVING
IN
MANUAL
MODE
AND
CHANGING
GEARS
BY
MY
SELF
good
So if I have paddle shifters I shouldn’t shift it?
I explained what I mean, when to shift and not shift manually, what’s good and not good for the transmission in the video 👋
🇵🇹My Mercedes A180 D, automatic transmission, has an extremely uncomfortable symptom. After the start/stop acts, when starting off there is a “jolt” or sudden movement that, in addition to being uncomfortable for the driver's neck, makes parking maneuvers extremely difficult and dangerous!
I delivered the car to Mercedes with the aforementioned complaint and saying that this problem had not occurred before. It came into existence after a review with a gearbox oil change at Mercedes.
At Mercedes they told me that there is no defect in the gearbox or clutch. And this feeling is normal!
My advice is, don't buy the Mercedes A 180D and if you already have one, wait because one of these days you will suffer from this sudden crash not recognized by Mercedes🤨!!!
I had this issue in my '08 C320 4-matic. The dealership tried reprogramming and oil change, didn't fix the issue.
@@Munakas-wq3gp 🇵🇹Dear friend, I can say that in Portugal I finally found a workshop outside of Mercedes dealerships that solved my problem. What he did was program the clutch and gearbox, both with the car stationary and in motion, always controlling the engine temperature, in addition to controlling the temperature of the gearbox oil.
I can't say anything more, simply that the car was impeccable!!!⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐!
@@franciscocaetano2908 Nice to hear it worked for you. I ended up trading my car for a CLK500 with the old bulletproof 722.6. During the first winter I realized I made a horrible mistake to go back to rear wheel drive 😂 Kept that car for only 2 years and then went back to 4-matics.
I have this issue too in my '12 C300. I tried to search about it and found a lot of people have it too but they brush it off and learn to live with it. Happens to so many of cars so that most people find it to be the gear box characteristic. I, too, have learned to press the brake more firmly doing parallel parking.
@@haiducchu ruclips.net/video/xHjP3XhZRZU/видео.htmlsi=GuIJTXPNucxBJx0R
The workshop that solve the problem of my A 180 d, post RUclips videos about problems at gear box. He has post many, the link is about one of them!
What's with the stupid notification crap?
On that reason alone, I'm not subscribing.
It's annoying..
Chill, bro.
Great thanks
You're welcome!
Great tip keeping a beautiful girl in the car to prolong the life of the transmission shifter. Sheer genius!🤣🤣
🤣👍
good tips.
If you have to "baby" it, then its not "bulletproof"
Staying on top of maintenance isn’t the same as babying. Mercedes transmissions are usually solid
Girlfriends Leg or a little higher😂
😂🤝
Full of it ,
so fucking complicated
“Looking at the peasants or a BMW Driver” 😂😂