Irrigation Valve Installation from Mainline to Lateral Lines with Commentary
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- Опубликовано: 12 янв 2022
- Irrigation Valve Installation from Mainline to Lateral Lines with Commentary
This video shows a full irrigation valve manifold installation using Hunter 1 “ PGVs from mainline to lateral lines from beginning to end.
This installation uses a Hunter model PGV-100G irrigation control valve and PVC pipe. A valve manifold installation has many points of possible failure, so Gregg walks you through best practices for Teflon tape, for threaded pipe, cutting pipe, de-burring, cement fusion (commonly called gluing), wire connections, back fill, and designing for maintenance and repairs. A proper valve manifold installation is key to a proper running irrigation system. 
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Love this video. This was the most informative video that I have watched on this work. Now I feel comfortable doing it myself. Thank You
Glad it was helpful!
The installer speaks with clarity and he explains why he's doing each thing. I learned so much from this video. Thank you.
This is a well-made video. It's rare to find everything in good quality, consistent volume, low noise, clear vocals, good information, good pacing, clear video with action relevant to the voice over, and a complete body of information. And it's free? wow!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
This video turned out nice. I've been installing and repairing residential, commercial, industrial and municipal systems up to 12" in size for 38 years. I'm in Arizona, but I've worked in Florida, Texas and California. One point Justin H. made in a statement below that I agree with was his point of leaving more space between fittings. I don't do close fitted fittings, aside from a drip zone; here I thread the Wye strainer into the downstream side of the valve and thread my Senninger pressure regulator onto the strainer. To be clear here I'm referring to residential drip, specifically. I only mention it because other drip zones I've work on along, like those on I-10 or U.S. 60, are 2" drip valves with anywhere from 3 to 15 pressure regulators downstream of each valve, and when a program activates it turns on six - 2" valves simultaneously, each fed off of a 3" potable mainline equipped with a Gilbert pump on a relay that cycles on/off to maintain a mainline pressure between 55 psi and 80 psi; controlled by a Motorola MIR 5000F containing 52 station terminals. Stations 1-24 operate by a Worcester Controls actuated master valve on station 25 and station 26 is a fertilizer injector. This is for one of two mainlines that are each 1 mile long on opposite sides of the freeway. Stations 27-50 operate by a second Worcester actuated valve on station 51 and station 52 is the second fertilizer injector. Each of the two 3" mainlines have flow sensors connected to two Data Industrial digital flow monitors allowing the controller to set high and low flow limits with numerous shut-off and alarm capabilities. I began working on these systems in 1993, and they're still using the same systems today.
Every mile of freeway in the Metro Phoenix area is identical. Cumulative data for both mainlines for a 1 mile stretch of freeway for a 6 month period comes to 1.2 million gallons of water. Ironic.... And they want to know why lakes Mead and Powell are approaching dead pool status!!! While I'm on the topic, people should know, that in 1997 to 2001, when the State of Arizona was pleading with citizens for the funds they were short, but desperately needed to complete the Loop 202, SR 51 and Loop 101, now you know where it went. It's like we bought the killer entertainment system, but now we can't pay the rent this month because we over spent on that system. The issue here: "priorities."
Oh, and I might as well tell you.... Every controller communicates with the mainframe located in the A.D.O.T. operations yard in central Phoenix by way of a CB radio using the Max Track 100 frequency. Inside the controller cabinet (which is the size of a bedroom closet) you can hear the communications being relayed via Morris code at a high rate of speed. This system was sold to countries around the world. It was sort of the first version of the Maxxicom System by Rain Bird, which is another system I worked on that controls all of the streetscaping throughout downtown Phoenix, the Phoenix History Museum, The Science Museum, Hance Park that sits above the I-10 tunnel and the Phoenix Civic Plaza/Symphony Hall Terrace. I forgot to mention Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport operates on a similar system when I performed the Terminal 4 renovation in time for the Superbowl in 1996. Damn.........I feel old now!
Got off track there, but I felt it was important to put that residential drip system into perspective. Anyway.....to my point now --
I usually put my mainlines deeper so that I have 6" of pipe between the Tee off of the mainline and the elbow going into my valve. On systems I install I use one isolation valve per manifold of three to five valves. On small, drip only residential projects, having just two or three zones I use one ball valve to isolate the front and one for the rear.
I want to mention that I noticed you remove the cement dauber from the can and you applied it first to the female side followed by the male side. On the Texas irrigation certification they apply it to the male side first, and they don't apply it to the female side on pipe 1" and smaller. Myself, I apply primer to both halves regardless of size, but I only apply cement to the male side on sizes through 1". I apply cement to both halves on 1-1/2" on up, applying it first to the male side to take off the excess and to avoid getting a build up where the pipe bottoms out in the fitting. I only use Weld-On 721 Blue Glue. Christy's Blue Glue is garbage. These two blue glues are not at all the same. And 725 Wet-Dry I won't allow on any of my trucks nor on any of my jobs. I can't tell you how many thousands of repairs I've made where someone use that aqua green crap and it came apart. Here's some wisdom for those just starting out in this business, Wet-Dry cement SUCKS. Don't use it.... I'm just suggesting... That's why they make moby-dikes, blow up bladders and loaves of bread -- just don't use the heel. At 22 years old I learned the hard way when I had to travel 60 miles back out to the job because a resident's toilet wouldn't fill up. I had repaired a 2" domestic potable water line feeding a two story apartment building. I couldn't get the water to stop long enough to get primer on it, let alone glue. Oh, here's another pointer, any time water comes into contact with your cement dauber, throw it away. I mean it -- don't use it.
In case you're wondering, NO, I'm not a plumber. It's just that I have one property management company who calls me out to perform plumbing repairs for them, but only after they've hired three of the biggest names in the plumbing business and are all found wanting..... Roto Rooter, Century 2000 and Roadrunner, each repair the same leak just one week apart, and all failed. This isn't a fluke either. This has happened six times within a three year period. They called me to do it. I told the management company that it wasn't irrigation, to go call a plumber. "We did," they said. "Then call them back, again," I said in rapid response. They insisted that I fix it. "Look," I said, "I don't get paid a plumber's wage. Besides, I'm not a licensed plumber." Guess who ended up repairing it??? Yeah, me. They knew I would fix it correctly because I guarantee everything I touch for 10 years. I've only had to go back and fix a prior repair four times, and three of those four times it wasn't the repair I did previously. Two of those times it was a fun house repair just two feet away that the person used enough fittings to pipe four of the manifolds you built in this video. Ridiculous isn't the word for it. I kept all of the fittings contained in a repair on two different occasions. I turned them into yard art. They drew more laughs from guests to my house, some of which had no experience or knowledge of irrigation or plumbing work.
One last thing I've got on my mind..... Your splices... I've used these splices on installing and repairing two wire systems with the decoders. That lasted all of about one week before I threw them all out and went back to my comfort zone. The best splice in the world, hands down, the DS-100 Dri-Splice. The 100's the one's you have to fill the cap with the blue paste. I fill mine so that the paste is a rounded dome above the cap. Then when you shove the cap inside the barrel a small amount of the paste squishes out through the three sphincters that the wires go through. The only way these splices are coming opart or off is by cutting them off.
Does anyone remember the King brand splice??? They were a tan long wire nut with a dark brownish colored grease inside them. Does anyone remember??? Well you can thank me and my boss at that time, Lance Billings (the best irrigation tech around. How do I know this? Because I'm number 2.) for having all of their splices recalled back in 1997-1998. Whatever they used inside of the splice caused the insulator of the wire to turn to mushy rubber like a booger. No shit. The insulator of 14 AWG solid core wire would melt and turn to the texture of a booger. Not only that.... Here's the best part of all. Are you ready??? It caused the wire to lose its conductive property. While troubleshooting a non-op valve it stumped me the first time I discovered it. The valve had water to it. It bled on manually. I tested the solenoid and it didn't work. I replaced the solenoid, testing it before I installed it. Once installed it still wouldn't activate from the controller. I check the wire from the clock, and I have no continuity. I trace the wire and could find no break or ground fault. Frustrated as Hell, I stripped the station wire back four inches and "bang", I had continuity. I then stripped the old solenoid wire back three inches and hooked it up to my 24 Volt Station Master and Voile -- it worked. Irregardless of the composition of the wire, copper, aluminum -- it would lose its conductive properties. It was only when you cut back three to four inches that you could find a functional conductor.
As a result, King reimbursed my boss by purchasing over 1,800 Dri-Splices to replace all of the splices he purchased from them and installed. It took a little more than one year for my boss and I to replace all of those splices at no cost to the customer. King didn't pay the labor to replace them. They just replaced the splices with the brand my boss insisted on having.
Great video though. Good work...
This is a super high-quality, informative video. There is lots of bad info out there - especially on youtube - but this video is awesome and I took lots of notes for my sprinkler installation!
I watch a lot of instructional RUclips videos. This is in the top 1% of any subject I follow. Detailed, yet simple. Well-spoken. Logical progression. I've done a lot of irrigation design and installation in my past life and needed a refresher and I wanted to learn new things. This met all of my expectation. Thank you and congratulations.
I have watched hundreds of videos on manifold building and assembly. This is the best video I have watched! It was so good that I have subscribed to your channel. I want to rebuild my inline manifold system, and I want to do it right. I'm so glad I found your video. You describe every single step very well not rushing or editing . A++
That final product is amazing. It's so neat. Great job.
This video is just super! As everyone says, it is probably the best one out there. You could point out that the nipples that were cut in half, were schedule 80 (gray) not because they had to be schedule 80, but because that is all that you will find in home centers. You could point out that the union joint you used is schedule 80 not because it had to be schedule 80, it is on the low pressure side of the valve, but because they are higher quality than the white schedule 40 PVC unions that are usually found in home centers. For reasons that I don't understand, the schedule 80 unions are usually cheaper if you can find them.
always dry fit your connections and always put marks on the orientation of your fittings prior to gluing . this way you know that everything will line up and level up perfectly, if you don't then you will have to cut everything and start over.
Nice job explaining this. Really clear. Thanks.
Thank you
Nice video! After doing years of service repair work, I have never understood why installers don't just use 2 unions. With 2 it is quicker to replace the valve and has less stress on the fittings during replacement. With only one union the service tech is forced to lift and bend the fittings on the mainline side. Also, I always leave space between fittings to allow for future repairs, like if the plastic ball valve leaks 10 years down the road the repair will require digging up the valve box to properly complete the repair. How many wraps of Teflon tape do you use? I was taught to do 5-6. The good news with all this is that the valve you installed will likely never have an issue that will require complete valve replacement. Very reliable valve! I understand that Hunter is the only valve manufacture that still water pressure tests every valve. This is my favorite valve to use! Please keep up the good work!
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Very good information and very thorough.
Excellent informative video, thank you!!!
Glad it was helpful!
thank you brother! highly appreciate your effort and hard work..
You're welcome
Great video, very informative! Thank you!
You're welcome.
Indeed great video. Thank you!
You're welcome
Fantastic video. Thanks
Thank you
Great work
Thank you! Cheers!
What's that best pipe for the supply line? I have a copper 1 1/2" supply line. Is sch. 40 PVC ok for me? I have to install a PVB outside in Michigan?
does a new wiring line need to be ran off of each manifold or do you just run one line to all of them? When connecting multiple manifolds.
for maintenance purposes, why not add unions on both sides of the valve?
Why did you do a 90 degree angle up when you branched off the main line? would't it have been easier just to do two T-joints straight out horizontally?
What postion are the valve in, open or close when connecting?
Great video, really helpful! What type/brand of pvc primer and cement are you using?
Hunter Industries is a manufacturer of irrigation and lighting products. We do not manufacture glue products. The irrigation suppliers or local distributors typically sell Weld-On or Christy's RedHot as the glue products of choice.
Thank you again for contacting Hunter Technical Support. Please let us know if we can offer any other assistance.
Professional done
Thanks for watching!
Nice!
Thanks for watching!
@@Hunter_Industries 7 months later and I'm still referencing this video, its that good 😁
If I’m deleting two zones and want to turn an existing zone into two zones what’s the step by step process for that?
How much Teflon tape do you recommend? I never use more than 5 wraps. My brother just had to fix a whole valve bank from this
Thank you for contacting Hunter Technical Support.
You must apply thread tape by turning it clockwise around the thread. When the fitting is connected, the fitting is installed in the same clockwise direction, sealing the fitting & not pealing back.
3 wraps
But I have some questions. Which number should I call?
Where do you get the threaded pipe that you glue the PVC to?
These are schedule 80 nipples. They are also called risers. They come in various lengths. They come with threads on both ends. You cut them in half or to the length that you need. The two pieces you end up with will have threads on one end and a blunt end that you solvent weld into a PVC joint. I have never seen them in schedule 40 PVC (white), but that does not mean they don't exist.
Where can I get a deburring tool like that?
Thank you for contacting Hunter Technical Support.
This is a generic tool used for deburring and the local irrigation dealers should have these in stock.
Please click on the link to find an Authorized Hunter Distributor in your area.
Thank you again for contacting Hunter Technical Support. Please let us know if we can offer any other assistance.
Well. Whoever put my system in, definitely never saw this. Its a mess
Hope this video helps so you can correct the system.
@@Hunter_Industries
Ive watched it several times, gonna start getting the pieces and try my luck around the end of the month.