Troubleshooting Sprinkler Wiring In Your Yard
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- Опубликовано: 16 янв 2020
- Learn how to check sprinkler wiring in your yard for shorts, cut wires, or bad solenoids. How to identify which zone a valve in your yard is wired to in your controller. Sprinkler Repair DIY. Sprinkler Repair. Do it yourself sprinkler repair. Sprinkler Troubleshooting. How to check if a sprinkler solenoid is bad. How to know if a sprinkler wire has been cut. How to know if there is a short in the sprinkler wiring. How to know what valve belongs to a zone.
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This is an amazing video. Not sure how long it took to setup the whole thing. Truly appreciate your time and effort. You should be a professor at college🙂
My pleasure!
THANK YOU for the super helpful troubleshooting guide on valves and controllers. This was definitely the video that explained in layman's terms how to troubleshoot valve and wiring operations.
Much appreciated!!!
My pleasure!
Great job of explaining the basics and the step by steps. Saved me tons of time, trouble and money.
Thanks! My pleasure!
Great video- thank you for taking the time to set up the scenarios, film, and explain.
My pleasure!
Thank you! Your guidance helped me find an oxidized connection after going after it with my meter! Great detail!
So glad to hear!!
I just got into irrigation about a week and a half ago. Your video helped a lot thanks for your detailed layout.
Thanks, glad it helped...
Thanks so much for taking the time to record and post this. Helped me immensely - following your method I pinpoined corroded wiring (the system is old) within 10 minutes of getting my multimeter out. 50ft of new 18/5 cable, some water-resistant wire screw connectors from the local Do-It Center and an hour or so later everything is back working as it should be, better than ever. Thanks again!
So glad to hear!!!
Awesome explanation, I am able to fix my sprinkler, my sprinkle unable to start with Wi-Fi but work Manually.I changed solenoids but that was not fix it , finally after watching this video I found out the common wire was disconnected.Thank you for your video !!!
My pleasure!
Very great explanation. First video that understood all sprinkler system. Thank you so much
My pleasure!
Thank you for this excellent training video. You have covered multiple problems and explained trouble shooting steps. I loved the model you used as well to help explain your method.
My pleasure!
Very informative, great video, thanks!
Outstanding video and explanation. Very well planned, thought out and informative. Thank you
Thank you!
More content and your channel will blow up. I've watched all your videos and each of them are top notch.
Thank you koolguyinplano
! I appreciate the kind words!
thank you!! my system hasn't worked for years, ive found all the valves ( I think) and now can start to try to figure out where the breaks are in the wiring.
Thanks! I hope the best for you!
This was very helpful. I had an error code on my controller. I checked every solenoid and they all checked out. The problem was only the 9-volt battery used as a power backup. Problem solved in under 15 minutes.
Well done, thank you Sir.
Awesome teacher. Very well thought out and prepped.
Thank you! So glad it helped!
Great video! Such helpful information. New homeowners and discovered a very old, broken sprinkler system on our property. Quotes are INSANE to replace it (over $5k!) so we are learning about this. Thanks for making this so clear. We have a journey of learning in front of us and are going to check out all of your videos!
Thank you Sheila, I'm glad it's helpful!
Wonderful explanation
Great information and well explained
Thank you!
Best explanation ever ,Thank you!
My pleasure!
Thank you for explaining the wiring. I've looked, on and off, for something that explains it. You did a great job in doing that.
F Guerrero thank you!
Amazing demonstration
Thanks!
Thank you very easy explanation how to check for problems
My pleasure!
Amazing work-thank you so much
Our pleasure!
Great video!! Thanks for the help! Very informative and explanation of everything is very simple 👍🏽
Thanks!
I really appreciate the time you took to explain all of this. I'm currently having an issue that I'm fairly certain is a broken wire (which is odd since there's been no digging or manipulating of any kind). Luckily this is only a short run from the pro-c and the valve box, so I'm going to run a temporary above ground as a test. At the valve box I'm getting around 20 ohms (I'm assuming that's just coming from the solenoid). But at the controller I get nothing. At the controller I'm getting about 26VAC, but nothing at the valve box. Seems like a bogus wire to me. Thanks again!!!
My pleasure! Agreed, sounds like u have a bad wire or connection.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's a wire problem. I don't have a tool to check for where it might be broke, but definitely not getting voltage (or any resistance) out to the box (on any conductor). It's a pretty straight shot, so I'm assuming maybe my garage or the ground settled? I don't know other than it's weird LOL.
Excellent video!
Thank you!
Very helpful, thanks!
My pleasure!
Thank you. Very good video.
Our pleasure!
Thank you so much for making these! Best irrigation repair videos on RUclips!
Thank you for the kind words Dabber!
well done - nice!
Thank you!
Sounds like a sprinkler controller should have some of those self checks. At least it could do om checks per zone to self diagnose issues.
Phenomenal video! I’ve tried changing the master solenoid but it didn’t fix it. This walked me through exactly what to do tomorrow.
Subscribed!
So glad it help!
I had a question about my system wiring. I feel like the install company did it backwards. The common runs all the way around the house hitting every solenoid before going to the master valve. So if I have any solenoid out, I have to find before the master will work again…..correct?
I’m in NTX too
@@ianmcalister8172 some times there are multiple commons. Sometimes you can see that in the controller box, but sometimes they are spliced in your yard. Bottom line is it all depends on how it was wired. Principles are the same but troubleshooting is more difficult.
@@sprinklerrepair4L every solenoid I’ve tested following your video has be 0.00 ohms (5/11). Replaced those 5 and just picked up more to finish testing other 6. I truly appreciate your video and responses!
Amazing video thank you
Thank you, my pleasure!
Thanks so much sir for helping me
My pleasure!
Thank you buddy!
My pleasure!
Thank you so much
My pleasure!
So i have three valves that i need to connect to the sprinkler programmer but one valve is in the front yard which is quite aways from the box. The other valves are behind the box but I'm confused on how to connect the common wire to all three valves. Would I have to cut it? Run two common wires?
Videos like these are the only reason I "like" and "subscribe"
What size wire do you recommend for an 8 zone Rachio gen2 of which 3 valves are 150 ft from the controller?
Also do you recommend the Fluke 323 clamp meter for irrigation troubleshooting, or does this just happen to be the one you default to? If the latter, do you suggest another meter for this type of job?
Thank you in advance!
I use 18g, I the fluke 323… the separate meter only if you have a specific need to know
Could the controller have more than one common wire?? My front yard zones are working but the backyard zones aren’t!
You the best my friend ((thank you))
My pleasure!
Lot of useful information and very well explained.
My home had 3 zone irrigation system and after I moved in, I installed 3 more zones. But the newly installed 3 zones (zone 4,5,6) don't work. They work fine manually and also work fine if I combine zone 1,2,3 with zone 4,5,6. I tried switching the wiring between 1 and 4, 2 and 5, 3 and 6, then the zones that were 4,5,6 earlier becomes zone 1,2,3 and new valves turn on. Not sure of this controller issue or bad wires. Please help.
I always start at the controller by checking the ohms. It should run between 20 and 60. If that is good my next check is the AC To check if the controller is giving AC when it should. Once you’ve done both of those you’ll have a better idea of what’s going on. I hope the very best for you.
Nice video
Thank you!
Cool video. Thanks
I was looking at my system and saw that my master value only has two wires. One black and one white wire. Could my master value be wired last in the chain (white common wire)?? The 7 other value boxes each have two white wires and two red wires connected.
The master valve is usually the first one wired and then each other valve has a common going into it and out of it including the last one that goes all the way to your controller.
Good video. I can appreciate the work it took to create this.
Check that y-strainer (;
Thank you!
Great video..I just subscribed. 2 of 4 zones come on same time and 2 trickle. All Hunter solenoids are good at controller. No master valve, but pump controller..any thought on what to check next. Thanks.
Usually 1 of the zones has failed mechanically and needs the guts replaced. Evert once in a while the controller is giving ac to both at the same time.
@@sprinklerrepair4L thanks for reaching out. I opened all bleeder ports and unscrew the valves all the way.and it appears to have solved the problem...I noticed one valve had a loud buzz sound when the pump began to cavitate, but went away after I primed it once water started moving through and I backed out the valve stem a little
Thank you so much for explaining so nicely , i am going to do a small project to add a zone/valve for my foundation drip line and yes i am nervous but i know i can do it . i am a DIY guy .
Yes, you can do it!
@@sprinklerrepair4L Any tips you want to share with us :)
@@RajRaj-ib2pz The first thing I advise homeowners when considering drip irrigation for their foundation is to speak with a professional about proper watering for your home based on drainage, water flow, sun vs shade, or any other specific concerns on your property. By professional I mean a structural engineer or other foundation experts. It may be that your property requires different amounts of water around your house. If that’s the case you will need more than one valve installed. Secondly, I would suggest that you find where your mainline and wiring runs so you can put your new valves in the most efficient place to save on time/money/labor. Finally, I’d suggest using the proper valves (with pressure regulator & filter), drip line to include not exceeding manufacturing specs on how long to run the drip line without an additional header or feeder line, and install flush valves. Hope this helps!
@@sprinklerrepair4L - Thanks a lot
Hi there, can you please advise - I want to combine my zone 1 with my zone 2 so that when my timer turns on zone 1, all of zone 1 plus zone 2 sprinklers turn on at the same time. Reason is I only have 2 sprinklers left in my zone 2 due to some recent landscape changes and simply want to connect zone 1 wiring to include zone 2. I dont think there is any issue doing so- just looking for some peace of mind. I am willing to accept a bit of lost pressure if that is of any concern. thank you!
Just unhook your zone 2 wire and put it in your zone one slot with zone ones wire. Make sure to turn zone one on to make sure you have the pressure to water effectively.
Many thanks, great video as I know nothing about sprinkler wiring. One of the reasons to check this video is because I have my zone 5 working fine, but it then also starts up and works with zone 7.
What should I check in this instance, do I check the ohms for each zone as they are obviously working, do I look for wires to the valves that are touching?? Would appreciate your thoughts.
You can check and see if the controller is giving both zones AC. If not it is probably a mechanical failure of the zone not getting AC. If the controller is giving AC to both zones then it’s a Controller issue. I hope the very best for you.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Thanks for such a quick response, could be as I am also living in Keller 😀. I have a multimeter so will start checking the controller and zones first, but seriously, if it outside my very limited knowledge I will call you.
Thanks again
Such a great 101 tutorial!
I'm at a golf course where we have larger controllers that send the same voltage to each large golf sprinkler not any different than the setup you just showed with common electric valves in a home lawn. I believe I have a situation where past staff members accidentally linked common wires directly to some station wires aka power wires randomly in the field. For example if you turn on station #2 you get two sprinklers to come on. I turn that station off and as I cycle through individual stations one at a time and reach station #8 one of those two sprinklers from station #2 comes back on again! Any advice on how to use a multimeter, wire tracing equipment etc to quickly pin pin point which sprinkler the "mis" wiring took place so I don't have to dig up several sprinkler heads searching? Thank you!
Ben W.
If you know where the valves are, you should be getting pretty close to the same ohms in the field as you do at the controller. When 2 valves are wired together you will get ~1/2 the ohms at the controller, but not in the field as you are measuring the solenoid directly. This will help you determine if you have 2 valves wired together. Just the one head popping doesn't make much sense to me though. If they were plumber together some how, I would thing both would pop up and the same with wiring. I hope the best for you!
What would be the result if someone spliced a common wire to a station wire?
@@benwilmarth5473 not sure I understand. In most cases the common is spliced to every valve unless it’s the first or last in a series.
I’m drumming up the scenario that someone who didn’t understand how power & commons are spliced together throughout the network mis wired and how that would affect & we would go about Troubleshooting a scenario like that. It would be cool to show it on that same video
I found that my common wire appears to be coated with paint or some material unlike normal insulation but there is a break, the common wire doesn't need to ne insulated as long as the connections are good right?
It does need insulation on it to keep the wire from corroding. I would replace any bare wire with new wire.
I have both wires at zone 5 look burned for some reason. Should I replace all of it? Can I just cut it? Solenoid works but no voltage at end of wire from controller. Controller puts out 29 volts.
It sounds like you have a bad wire. If you measure ohms at the controller you should get between 20-60. If it's open (reads 0) then it's either a bad solenoid, bad connection or broken wire somewhere between that zone and the controller. It's pretty common to see "burned" looking wires but doesn't necessarily mean the wire is bad. You'll have to take ohm measurements at the controller and then the solenoid to determine what is happening.
Question, I have a controller that is not activating any of the valves (8 zones, no master). When I test voltage, on one running zone, it is showing +/- 28v on each zone. I have an old controller that was good when I switch to a smart controller (B-Hyve 12 Station) and when I run the same test on the old controller, only the active zone shows +/- 28v, which I would expect, but it still is not activating the valve for that zone, any thoughts on the issue to check?
Sounds like the controller is doing it's job, but that's not the issue. If the controller is doing it's job, then it's probably the solenoid, bad wire or connection, water supply issue,
or a mechanical failure of the valve. Since none of them are working, I'd guess it's bad wire or water supply. Next step is to take ohms on each zone (which should be 20-60). That will tell you if you have a wiring issue.
Some manufaturers use the name “zone” to designate areas like “front lawn”, “side alley”, etc. then they use “station” to refer to a specific valve or irrigation point….
All my zones valves are turning on but there is not enough pressure for heads to come out. But if I turn on the valves manually there is a lot of pressure at the sprinkler head. Same is happening with not one but all 7 zones. Any suggestion?
Sounds like a valve issue. I'd try replacing it or replacing the guts to see if that resolves the issue.
Hi good evening I have a ploblem whit my sprinkler wire i find the rain sensor cut i check the control whit the milimiter and have 24v but the valves don't turn on
If I am understanding correctly, you just need to disconnect the rain sensor from the controller and make sure you have a jumper in there. Put the common from the field back into the common designation and make sure the sensor wire is out and you should be good until you repair the rain sensor. Most all of them are wireless now so you won’t need the wire. Hope the best for you!
Is it master valve wires connect same other valves?
Yes one goes to the common, and the other goes directly back to the controller in the space noted as MV, pump or P
excellent video, makes it a lot easier to troubleshoot these problems. If you decide to update it at some point, would you include how a rain sensor fits into the overall picture. Mine is spliced into the "common" line near where the valve bodies are at the back of the house (75 feet from the controller in the garage), so it doesn't use the two "sensor" connectors at the controller and it doesn't connect inline to the "common" wire at the controller either.
You bet!
I have a valve in my main box (front yard) that’s feeding a sub-box with another 3 valves in the backyard. The way i have it wired, (with all backyard zone splices under the same wirenut coming off that feeder valve in the front yard manifold), once I change from one zone to another in the clock, the previous zones will not shut off. I know this is not correct wiring i was troubleshooting & im missing something here.
Essentially I need the feeder valve to always be open so that needs power. But i also need power to all the valves in the backyard so they are controllable but only having one run at a time.
It sounds like you’re talking about a Master Valve. If so, you’ll have a wire in your controller named MV or P (for pump)
sir:
I like your video. While it does help my understanding as a whole, I have a problem you may be able to solve quickly.
I recently bought a new (older) home and trying to fix 2 adjacent zones (e.g. 5 and 6), where the valves are right next to each other. The problem is that the individual zone wires are the SAME color, and they all have been cut. So I can't distinguish between the zone 5 wire, zone 6 wire, or common. [ If they were color coded to match the controller side, it would be simple to wire it] I could "wing it" and try all combinations, but there has to be a way to determine which wire belongs to which zone. Suggestions?
If you have a multimeter, and you are measuring ohms, when you cut a wire, you will know which one it is.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Thanks for the reply. When I dug up the in ground valves, the wires were already cut and mixed up. How can multimeter tell which is which?
@@silk8188 if they were still hooked up, you would measure ohms and then, when you cut the wire, the ohms would go to zero. You can use a stationmaster to send a signal down the wires to determine which ones they are as well.
Having a problem whit one my pump is not turning on changed the relays but still not working had a mv short high voltage light but all i hear is mv humming?
Sorry I’m not a pump guy.
Is 16 AWG "marine wire" good for sprinklers? Wasn't sure if all 16 AWG wire are created equal. Thank you!
As long as UL rated for burial…
Please Help....Hi, Thank you so much for the few videos you have put together they help me a lot. But I have an issue I am not able to figure out. I checked all my solenoid for vol and ohms and all is well (from the outside units, I have 4 zones) from the panel I am good with the voltage but I am not getting any ohms reading from any zones and I do not have a master valve. From 3 zones I see one red wired going into one of the wires from the solenoid and two white wires connected to the other wire from the solenoid. on the other zone outside connection (not sure which zone this is) I have two white wires connected together, one read connected to solenoid and one white connected to the other solenoid. I already clean up all the connection and make new ones. Hope you have the time to reply and thank you.
If you have good ohms at the valve boxes in the ground, but do not at the controller, it means that you have a cut wire or wires (or bad splice but you redid those) somewhere between the controller and the valve boxes. The best thing to find this is a Valve finder. Not sure where you’re located, but here in North Texas we can rent them at different irrigation supply stores. I use longhorn irrigation in Grapevine and I know they rent Valve finders. I hope the very best for you!
@@sprinklerrepair4L Not sure if this make sense but I decided to reset the controller then I check back for ohms reading and I was able to get them on all of the zones connections, but still sprinkler didn't come on, that was after a few hours later when my wife told me they were on. I was able to change zones but noticed that some of them were not stopping. I am going to change all the solenoids and try it again. Thank you for getting back to me so quickly and thanks again for your videos. I just moved to Georgia and reason for my troubleshooting.
well the reason for not stopping was because I program the zones to run multiple times, I have a Hunter Pro-C unit. Thanks again
You’re explanations are clear and load, but I feel that your visual display of the procedure must be improved, showing us the cables your touching when doing the oms measurements please. I can’t determine which cables I should touch with my measurement equipment, as on controller, as on valves as well.
Thank you for your work!
Jorge Salazar it’s one the common and 1 on the zone you are testing at the controller. When testing a valve solenoid it’s none on each wire and it doesn’t matter which one.
So grateful that you answered this in the comments. I had the same question about which wires I'm supposed to touch when probing. Thank you!
Does your controller need to be OFF when you do these tests?
Yes for the ohms test, but you have to turn the zone on to check AC.
What if tech told me it’s the solenoid without testing resistance. So by recommendations, I replaced the solenoid. With new one on, same issue. No sprinklers on zone 4. Resistance all 4 areas perfect, voltage perfect. No water on zone 4 yet% Any Idea?
If you have ohms & ac, then change the guts out. Probably a bad diaphragm
Hi why have you installed a pressure regulator valve in main fold and not after zone valve where you want to controller water pressure for example drip line pls explain
That is a Rainbird set up for drip that comes with a pressure regulator and filter. While the other zones may have been designed for higher pressure, the drip must be regulated. Did that answer your question?
@@sprinklerrepair4L but can i put pressure regulator after zone valve and not in main fold line
@@sprinklerrepair4L i also have same rain bird pressure valve/filter 40 psi but i have installed after zone valve which then connect to drip line for foundation
@@RajRaj-ib2pz agreed, I put it on the outlet side when I'm installing. This one video was just focused on the wiring aspect, but I should have it the other way.
@@sprinklerrepair4L thank you , i have learned a lot from video and i was just making sure i am not doung anything wrong, pls keep posting these videos , you are a great help for people like me who do DIY. Thank you and god bless you
When turning my Hunter SRC from manual station to 'run', it doesnt activate the zone run timer as usual and defaults back to the date display. I cant get it to run, it keeps resetting back to date display. No error code or anything. Ive used multimeter on the AC power, checked the fuse, unplugged it for a while, changed the battery, reset the unit, re-programmed the timers and zones, checked the ohms from the controller to the solenoid, manually activated the valves at the box and they worked, everything checks out. Bad controller?
Is your drip valve backwards?
Yes, it’s normally installed on the outlet side
Isn't your zone #1 valve in backwards? The drip zone valve?
Yes it is
I ACCIDENTALLY CUT MY WIRES RIGHT AT THE CONTROLLER (ALL BUT ONE ZONE). I SPLICED THEM BACK TOGETHER BUT THE ONLY ZONE THAT WORKS IS ZONE ONE (THE ONE I DIDN'T CUT). ANY IDEAS ABOUT WHAT I SHOULD DO?
If you have a master valve, Many times it is a different color like black or blue, it Hass to go to the right one. The other one that Hass to be in the right place is the Common. My guess is the Carmen, which is usually white, but you can look in your controller and see what color it is, is the issue. But that’s just a guess…
I've been working as a sprinkler tech for a while now and there's an issue that I had only twice that I just can't figure out.
Example: turn on zone#1 (at the controller) and 1 or more other valves also turn on.
Keep in mind, the valves are wired properly, there's no visible breaks in the wires where bare copper will be touching and the system had been working properly prior.
Any suggestions?
Does it have a master valve? If so you may have bad valves and they come on automatically turn in the other zone on.
@@sprinklerrepair4L no master valve.
There's water in the manifold at all times.
In this particular case, the customer states the system was installed 2 years ago.
If either stations 1, 5 or 6 are turned on at the controller, all three valves open.
Did you check to see if the controller visit AC to all of those at the same time?
@@sprinklerrepair4L controller working properly (Rachio)
Have you tried removing the wires from the controller to see if they come on? If so then there is no electrical component and maybe they have been plumbed together…
Please show the wiring junction near the controller
Sorry I don’t have that set up any longer.
what is the difference between water-resistant and waterproof wire connectors? Where can I buy waterproof connectors?
You can buy them on Amazon. Just make sure you search for proof versus resistant.
USA Made - (2-Pack) Waterproof Direct Bury Wire Cable Splice Kit (3M), 18-10 AWG, Low & High Voltage - 600V Max (UL Approved) (2) a.co/d/651GcL4
@@sprinklerrepair4L Thank you so much!
What if my meter doesn't make the beep on #4 at the panel but it reads at 60 watts. M,1,2,3 all beep and read 24 watts
It means continuity isn’t good…maybe a bad connection if that zone isn’t working.
@@sprinklerrepair4L I got the zone working at the panel. It doesn't say short anymore. I honestly can only locate one valve box
Beep usually means continuity. This means either a bad connection in the valve box, a bad solenoid, or bad wiring somewhere between the controller and the valve in the yard.
Do you repairs for hire? I am in NTX & need help with repair. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Yes, I’m in Keller Tx. We are currently booked out until 7/31/23 though…
maybe someone can help me. I dont know much about wiring. I suspect my issue is with the common wire. When i connect the common wire while the sprinklers are on from the controller it will work. but when i turn off the sprinklers system and turn it back on it wont work. I am dealing with this issue over and over again.any idea what it could be
When it's not working, I would check to see if the controller is giving AC. If not, it's a controller problem. If you have good ohms at the controller and the controller is giving AC, then it's probably the valve and needs to be replaced or replace the guts if possible.
@@sprinklerrepair4L thanks a lot!
It looks like your drip system valve and filter are in backwards
Agreed
low volume; hard to hear
Do you have a number I can call for tech support? I will immediately Venmo you before you help me!
Difficult to hear audio. Microphone would be very helpful.