Wow, love the high tech video. Best one online...lot of terminology and explanation. Still don't quite get the pressure gradient and channels sequence...more arrows please...
Ugh somebody help me out. One of my two PGV valves developed a slow leak; I replaced the top bonnet with a new one from Home Depot. That fixed the slow leak. But now, when the valve is opened, it shoots a jet of water out the side. Based on the video, the water jet is coming out where the bonnet exhaust port is; and it happens as soon as the downstream pipe is full (i.e. exactly at the 3:00 mark in the video). I have unbolted and reseated the bonnet multiple times, and the diaphragm is new and no sign of debris around the edge of it. But I'm always getting a water spray out of that same spot. Do I need to replace the entire valve?
You likely have two different versions of a valve installed. When replacing just the valve bonnet (top), it's critical that they match 100%. It sounds like you'll want to replace the entire valve at this point.
Does solenoid need to be energized all the time we want water to flow or is it enough to energize it for a few seconds until the chamber changes pressures?
It has to be active all the time for the valve to open. The solenoid activates a tiny electromagnet and if the current is off, the metal plunger will drop, causing the valve to close.
I took apart mine, cleaned every part (had nothing to clean though), played with the exhaust valve and tried to manually turn it, but mine won't work. If the main flow is on, it won't open. If I open it and then close the main flow, the valve will open. I can then open the main flow and water will flow. Turning it off also works.
Winterization and blowout steps vary by contractor and by region. Generally, you want o remove water from the valve and any other device that would be damaged by freezing. ruclips.net/video/qo5PHp-6C10/видео.htmlsi=8PZ18C5ohmM-uxI9
Thank you. Question, my valve only works with bleeding screw. I could confirm the solenoid is working. I cleaned up the tiny hole where solenoid fits…but still it didn’t work. Can I simply get a new valve and replace the whole plunge/solenoid/bleed screw mechanism, and avoid a complete cut pipe and replace the whole valve kind of effort?
It's common for irrigation technicians to replace the entire top assembly, leaving the valve body in place. It's critical that you have the same model valve and that the remaining valve body is not damaged though.
@@Hunter_Landscape_Irrigation, I replaced it. But sadly it’s leaking from where it’s attached. Do I have to tighten screw much stronger? They looked a like. How can I know the model number?
@@Hunter_Landscape_Irrigation, Thanks for responding back. Your answer confirmed that I was on right track. I retried and ensure the tight fitting between gasket and hole. It fixed the issue❤
What’s the difference between using flow control and using your Accu-Sync valve pressure regulator? I’m trying to adjust 1 of my 16 zones (coming from a 2HP sprinkler pump at an always consistent but pretty high psi) down to use 5 bubblers for this one zone along the fence. Ideally, I was thinking I could use the flow control for this and regulate all 16 zones to the appropriate psi. But it confuses me that there is a $65 pressure regulator accessory that is sold as well. I’m not understanding how they differ from the flow control that is already built in.
Flow and pressure aren't the same thing. The accusync lowers pressure with less flow loss. Pressure reducers don't reduce pressure by restricting flow. Rather they use a plunger that pulls back and creates a suction force that tries to pull the water backwards, thereby reducing its velocity and psi. Basically, it takes advantage of the principles that cause backflow. The practical benefit is that you can run more emitters on one drip zone than you could by restricting the flow rate.
It's correct that flow and pressure aren't the same thing. Using a pressure regulation device on an irrigation station is more reliable and more accurate than adjusting the flow control knob.
So I have been using my valves manually by turning the bleed screw, somehow another screw was turned and the valve would not work anymore, how do you fix that?
Take a look at the flow control handle. If it's turned down to low, water will not flow through the valve. ruclips.net/video/dBajCvLNem8/видео.htmlsi=WERN_7pFXqi_wmlB
I maintain a 4 house estate and pull water from a river behind the property and there’s a little over a 100 PVG valves and on occasion I will have a valve just stay stuck on. Sometimes I will find a pebble inside from a break in a supply line but most times I find nothing. Sometimes just flushing the valve out while open does it but sometimes it still stays stuck open or will do it the following week. If this happens I will just replace the top 1/2 with a new one and most of the time that works but not always. I wish I could know why they stay stuck open. The weird thing is it’s usually the same 2-3 zones that malfunction even after replacing the entire valve. Can you tell me why a valve would do this?
Debris in your water supply can cause a valve to stick open or stick open part way.A pebble would likely prevent the diaphragm from fully seating. You may need to contact and irrigation professional to install a system wide filter or screen.
It's 3:30am and I couldn't quite fall asleep until I knew exactly how the valve worked. Excellent video!
😂
I know very little about sprinkler systems. One of our valves was leaking and doing the flush in this video fixed my problem. Thank you!
Perfect!
starting an apartment maintenance job in 8 hours. I told them I have extensive irrigation experience. Now I know everything lol.
Sounds like a gamble but we're glad that you learned something from the video.
How is the job going? Did it work out and your extensive irrigation knowledge has come in handy
Thanks guys! You helped me troubleshoot my system. $9 part and it works perfect!
Glad it helped.
Awesome now I know what's wrong with my valve. I got water at the bleeder but no water to the heads. All other zones work fine. Huge thanks
Very clear explanation, thanks so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Great explanation of how these values work. Thanks
Wow, love the high tech video. Best one online...lot of terminology and explanation. Still don't quite get the pressure gradient and channels sequence...more arrows please...
Thank you
Fantastic video my next valve purchase will be a hunter!
Glad it helped
Thank you for the help greatly appreciate it!
You're welcome!
Ugh somebody help me out. One of my two PGV valves developed a slow leak; I replaced the top bonnet with a new one from Home Depot. That fixed the slow leak. But now, when the valve is opened, it shoots a jet of water out the side. Based on the video, the water jet is coming out where the bonnet exhaust port is; and it happens as soon as the downstream pipe is full (i.e. exactly at the 3:00 mark in the video). I have unbolted and reseated the bonnet multiple times, and the diaphragm is new and no sign of debris around the edge of it. But I'm always getting a water spray out of that same spot. Do I need to replace the entire valve?
You likely have two different versions of a valve installed. When replacing just the valve bonnet (top), it's critical that they match 100%. It sounds like you'll want to replace the entire valve at this point.
Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
My IQ just increased by a couple of points. Thank you.
Thank you
What's a good setting for the diaphragm, the screw in the middle of the bottom?
close it all the way, turn on the water, open the flow control valve until you get the desired spray pattern from your heads.
Exactly!
I used Rainbird’s DV100 for many years but switched to Hunter in 2021, so far Hunter has been very reliable.
Thank you
Would low water pressure situations affect the PGV? Would it remain closed?
Does solenoid need to be energized all the time we want water to flow or is it enough to energize it for a few seconds until the chamber changes pressures?
It has to be active all the time for the valve to open. The solenoid activates a tiny electromagnet and if the current is off, the metal plunger will drop, causing the valve to close.
Nice, you have it down!
@@Hunter_Landscape_Irrigation What do you mean?
I took apart mine, cleaned every part (had nothing to clean though), played with the exhaust valve and tried to manually turn it, but mine won't work. If the main flow is on, it won't open. If I open it and then close the main flow, the valve will open. I can then open the main flow and water will flow. Turning it off also works.
Please contact our customer support department here: www.hunterindustries.com/hunter-technical-support-email-request
During the winterization of the system, the blow-out port should be on inlet side or outlet side?
Winterization and blowout steps vary by contractor and by region. Generally, you want o remove water from the valve and any other device that would be damaged by freezing. ruclips.net/video/qo5PHp-6C10/видео.htmlsi=8PZ18C5ohmM-uxI9
Interesting fact and very informative, thank you sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you. Question, my valve only works with bleeding screw. I could confirm the solenoid is working. I cleaned up the tiny hole where solenoid fits…but still it didn’t work.
Can I simply get a new valve and replace the whole plunge/solenoid/bleed screw mechanism, and avoid a complete cut pipe and replace the whole valve kind of effort?
It's common for irrigation technicians to replace the entire top assembly, leaving the valve body in place. It's critical that you have the same model valve and that the remaining valve body is not damaged though.
@@Hunter_Landscape_Irrigation, I replaced it. But sadly it’s leaking from where it’s attached. Do I have to tighten screw much stronger?
They looked a like. How can I know the model number?
@@Hunter_Landscape_Irrigation, Thanks for responding back. Your answer confirmed that I was on right track. I retried and ensure the tight fitting between gasket and hole. It fixed the issue❤
If i turn open the cylinoid and open the bleeder at the same time, what will happen?
Either action will manually open the valve and there's no issue should you do both at the same time.
What’s the difference between using flow control and using your Accu-Sync valve pressure regulator? I’m trying to adjust 1 of my 16 zones (coming from a 2HP sprinkler pump at an always consistent but pretty high psi) down to use 5 bubblers for this one zone along the fence. Ideally, I was thinking I could use the flow control for this and regulate all 16 zones to the appropriate psi. But it confuses me that there is a $65 pressure regulator accessory that is sold as well. I’m not understanding how they differ from the flow control that is already built in.
I'm confused as well. Hopefully Hunter can explain.
I think it's better just get an water pressure regulator or a valve with pressure regulator
Flow and pressure aren't the same thing. The accusync lowers pressure with less flow loss. Pressure reducers don't reduce pressure by restricting flow. Rather they use a plunger that pulls back and creates a suction force that tries to pull the water backwards, thereby reducing its velocity and psi. Basically, it takes advantage of the principles that cause backflow. The practical benefit is that you can run more emitters on one drip zone than you could by restricting the flow rate.
It's correct that flow and pressure aren't the same thing. Using a pressure regulation device on an irrigation station is more reliable and more accurate than adjusting the flow control knob.
Would a larger metering port break the system?
Changes to the metering port will impact if or how the irrigation valve opens and closes.
Thank you.
So I have been using my valves manually by turning the bleed screw, somehow another screw was turned and the valve would not work anymore, how do you fix that?
Take a look at the flow control handle. If it's turned down to low, water will not flow through the valve. ruclips.net/video/dBajCvLNem8/видео.htmlsi=WERN_7pFXqi_wmlB
I maintain a 4 house estate and pull water from a river behind the property and there’s a little over a 100 PVG valves and on occasion I will have a valve just stay stuck on. Sometimes I will find a pebble inside from a break in a supply line but most times I find nothing. Sometimes just flushing the valve out while open does it but sometimes it still stays stuck open or will do it the following week. If this happens I will just replace the top 1/2 with a new one and most of the time that works but not always. I wish I could know why they stay stuck open. The weird thing is it’s usually the same 2-3 zones that malfunction even after replacing the entire valve. Can you tell me why a valve would do this?
Debris in your water supply can cause a valve to stick open or stick open part way.A pebble would likely prevent the diaphragm from fully seating. You may need to contact and irrigation professional to install a system wide filter or screen.
❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you
👍
Thank you