I am new to sprinkler repair as a homeowner. I am trying to watch as many videos I can before I could get the idea ( Am I capable? How hard is it? Special tools needed? etc) This is THE BEST VIDEO ON Sprinkler system (valve replacement) I have ever seen. Period. No shaking. No wind noise, No unnecessary fillers. Top notch (Part annotations were the best) You are a treasure for beginners like me.
Now that’s the kind of workmanship you don’t see often enough. Properly planned and well executed 👍 no messy glue lines, even though it’s all buried. Well done 👍
it helps when everything is horizontal. plus he didnt coat the pipe the full depth of the joints. should be okay bc at the pressures it will operate but that is not the suggested process by the manufacturer
I've always wanted to install a manifold.. I have a controller and have sought out instructions like this.. Fantastic information - clean - clear and concise. Bravo!!
Outstanding! I learned a lot here. I have a "new" 25 year-old house to landscape whose sprinkler system hasn't been run apparently in years. It's connected to the water main with no backflow adapter as required by code. It's going to be a tough project for a 76 year-old, but this garden is going to be spectacular and water is essential.
I remember finding your channel over 11 years ago when I was heavily interested in sprinkler and irrigation systems and I recently found your channel once again suddenly years later, it's really interesting after all of these years you are still making footage about them. :)
Thank you for your response. It just seemed under the radar to me in your video so that’s why I must have glazed over it. Unlike the more “modern” designs of inline valves whi have become the norm, my anti siphon valves are much easier to service when needed. My brother has inline heads and they are not easy to access and when there is a problem, they’re a royal headache and a half-day project. Appreciate your getting back to me.
Very good instructional video. Due to continued issues and failures, I had all of my RainBird valves and sprinkler heads replaced with Hunter and haven't had a single issue in nine years. But maybe RainBird has improved since then.
Yeah ive been installing, maintaining sprinkler systems for 12 years and I tend to have much more issues with rainbird valves and heads than hunter. I only use hunter products. I've seen the seals on the dv valves melt and warp causing them to stick on if a customer waits till the middle of a hot summer to activate the system. Also, to be honest, using pvc unions is a terrible idea, the seals in the union could easy seat wrong due to a sudden surge of water or air when winterizing, causing a leak. I've seen it many time when dummies use union slip fixes instead of the glue in ones. Good pvc work though.
The pro at the lawn irrigation store scoffed at me when I told him I was looking for an Action manifold to replace my glued up PVC manifold. He said always glue up and forget it. I have used Action manifolds and the rainbird valves before and I love the setup. No problems or leaks thus far. I think the lawn pro just does not like the idea of losing business!
Then he is an idiot I think. To glue this things in is absolutely not maintenance friendly. Here in Germany we are screwing everything, also the pipes (using flexible pipes on the role). Must not be the better technique but there is nothing leaking anyway. Otherwise change the o-ring of the manifold and it is easily fixed for years again.
@@Tomekk123 how many times are you guys changing valves?! A proper installation makes your valves last 20yrs plus! Those premade manifolds are straight trash.
@@noeeon9910 In Germany we are building for more than 20 years and don't want to dig up everything. Not in 20, 40 or 60 years. And when we have to fix something we want to do ist most easily.
@@Tomekk123 I understand. Its logical to think of future maintenance and your kinfolk have world renown for your engineering and mechanical aptitude. However this is not the best method, or cheapest method, or quickest method and for that I say its.... trash.
@@noeeon9910 But the cheapest or the quickest method is not always the better method. But if there is a better technical method I am of course always interested.
Great video- I learned a lot more than I was looking for- your masterful cutting, measuring, and gluing techniques are very valuable lessons for me. Thanks! 👍👍 ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
I just finished my 4 valve manifold. Two problems I ran into were: 3 of the 4 lateral lines were bundled together just above the main supply line. The 4th line was routed by itself above the bundle at a crazy angle. I used 45 degree elbows like you suggested to separate each line. Two of the lines would not line up easily so I used Lasko's flexible 1" pvc with push fittings to connect to the manifold valves. The other problem I had was that 3 of the 5 automatic drain valves leaked while under pressure. I used Teflon tape to stop the leaks on these and on the other 2 drains just to be sure. Everything worked great! Thanks for the help!
Why (at 12:00) do you use two 45º s (angling in the same direction with a short piece of pipe) instead of just using one 90º? I really appreciate the calmness and cadence of your voice in delivery. You make a great a teacher.
@@christopherwren6854 Pressure, flow, and velocity. Now we're getting into the weeds a bit. Velocity is how fast the water moves through the pipe. You want to try and keep that velocity around 5 fps (feet per second). My sprinkler system is fed from a 3/4" water meter. The available flow to keep the velocity around 5 fps is 9-14 gpm (gallons per minute). If I use 10 gpm on a sprinkler zone (when I add up the flow from the sprinkler nozzles), the pressure loss in 100' of pipe is 8.75 psi. I have high pressure where I live which is around 80 psi, so losing 8.75 psi is not a big deal. I would also need to account for pressure loss through fittings and tees. If I tried to use 14 gpm in the example I just gave the velocity goes to 8.75 fps and the psi loss would be 16.32 psi per 100' of pipe. So now you can see how quickly a sprinkler system with too many heads on a sprinkler zone can have performance issues even though the homeowner says they have a lot of pressure. A sprinkler system with low pressure to start with is even worse. This was the most common problem I encountered in my landscape business.
@@Iscaper Now that you've gone into the weeds, can you go further? I have a trouble zone on my system that I inherited from the previous homeowner. There are 6 heads on the zone, and it's the longest run of piping of all zones. I have 60psi at my spigot with a pressure gauge, but no way to test pressure at the sprinkler heads at this point. Sprinkler heads I'm using are rainbird 42sa rotary heads. I get coverage, but feel like I should have a longer throw based on this sprinkler heads rating. I'm not getting coverage from head to head. I ordered a couple of Hunter I20 heads to let me use the flow control and shut off a couple of sprinkler heads to see how it affects the others on the zone. What are other fixes aside from fewer sprinkler heads? Would replacing the nozzles with something allowing less flow be helpful? Would you mind explaining the relationship of PSI, GPM, and how to determine the number of heads to use based on these findings? Thanks for the great videos!
@@Iscaper Thank you so much for your time in taking to explain this. I went online today and purchased two Action Manifolds from their site. Yes, a bit costly, but as insurance for future repair costs, the piece-of-mind is something I like to have. And I told them to give you a nod. ;) Thanks again. ps - I'm incorporating two 45s when over one 90 when reasonable!
very nice install. my only suggestion would have been to place a small piece of landscape fabric under the vales and box and then before adding the outside dirt, tape it to the outside o the box below the top to keep dirt from entering.
i just redid a 7-valve manifold that was spread thru 3 boxes. who ever installed it used landscape fabiric but the boxes still had dirt in them above the fabric... maybe it helped but it did not solve the problem
Not sure Landscape fabric is correct, it stops weeds, but I'm not sure if it stops soil. I'd use Duraweb non-woven Geotextile Fabric, it stops the soil from getting through. Or some thing similar like the drain pipe sock that stops soil from clogging the pipe.
My anti-siphon valves are all above ground and very accessible if they need servicing. No mess like you had to deal with. I guess I’m old school and prefer it that way, I even use clock timers; I tried the digital but was more comfortable with the old clock method. I don’t need wifi to water my lawn.
Underground valves can be a problem, but in my installation if there is future valve trouble I simply have to undo the unions in the manifold to service the faulty valve. I shouldn't have to do any digging in the future. Above ground valves like you have are much easier to work on but for some homeowners there is an appearance issue, they don't want to see sprinkler valves poking out of the ground. There is also a bursting risk above ground from mowers and foot traffic.
for the past 20 years my dad has been adding more and more rocks to the yard. he will landscape with 1/2 inch to 1 inch rocks then when he gets bored and wants to redo the landscaping he will move the rocks to "low" spots in the yard then cover them with top soil. his yard looks like it has hundreds of mini burial mounds.
I had a good chuckle at the digging portion around 1:17. Had this been in my area of the world, the scene would be a little different. Great vid, as always, Mr Kerry.
Do automatic drain valves need a cavity left below them or does the water just drain out and soak directly into the ground? If an automatic drain valve is installed somewhere else in the yard (at the lowest point of a zone for example) should an access box be added or is the automatic drain valve intended to be "bury it and forget it"? Thank you for a slower paced video that takes time to explain the details with no distracting music. Thank you!
Automatic drains are pretty much install and forget them. I've never had trouble with the King auto drains. When the drain opens it seeps water into the soil. I would only install pea gravel under the drain if you have a heavy clay soil.
I love how at the end of the video, he sets the valve box gently on the pvc and it's completely flush with the sod. This rarely ever happens, you end up having to cut the valve box with a sawsall and moving a bunch of dirt around. It's a huge pain in the ass.
Thanks for the tip on scoring the pipe before cutting. I did not know that....I'm a female handy person so sometimes I don't know what should be obvious!
@@Iscaper Do you have advice/video on replacing a valve? I cut the old valve off, but I had a hard time getting it to fit! Should the ideal setting be that both ends be a male/female so that you can rotate the valve and screw it in? I ended up having to lift up the end of the 3/4 pvc to force it into the rest of the valve. I made a darn mess! It didn't go in straight! (I was working with an existing PVC pipe already in the ground).
@@roadrunner123 I'm assuming you have a manifold built with male adapters connecting to the sprinkler valves. Usually you make a cut down stream from the valve, then spin the old valve out of the male adapter in the manifold. Then you apply thread tape or use teflon paste to the male adapter in the manifold. Next thread a male adapter with thread tape or teflon paste into the outlet of the new valve. Then spin the inlet of the new valve onto the male adapter in the manifold. Buy a quick fix repair coupling to make the connection from the outlet male adapter to the sprinkler pipe. Here's a link on using a quick fix coupling: ruclips.net/video/eQ8uD1Bcny0/видео.html
@@Iscaper Oh wow! I get it. The quick fix allows you to slide it back and then forward to glue in. I made a big mistake. I cut the old valve off in two places which was unnecessary since I could have cut it further away and just twisted it off!!! 🤣 Like I said, I forced the 3/4 pipe into a coupler! Surprisingly, it worked, but I get now. Thank you!
Its for systems in areas where it can experience freezing temperatures, these drains are there to drain the water out of your pipes so they don't crack, just an ever so slight trickle.
When the stop & waste valve is shut off in the fall, the automatic drain opens to drain the supply lines. This helps prevent freeze damage in colder climates.
@@Iscaper I just now noticed that you just lay the box on top of the pipes and never make cuts to fit the around the pipes. you can imagine what I'm doing these days
We are presently installing a new sprinkler system which entails attaching the backflow prevention to a PEX feed line then into the manifold. How would you attach the PEX line to the galvanized backflow prevention system; then how to connect the galvanized section to the PVC valves? Btw, very well described installation video.
0:24 - You need to get yourself an Underhill Gulp Pro A-G12S-C. Not cheap but way better than a cup for removing water from a hole in the ground. Lots of other water removal uses as well.
Very well done video. I am having to replace my PVC manifold (which has no unions) because whoever installed my valve box had it sitting right on the PVC supply line coming into my manifold. I guess someone put some weight on the top of the valve box and and it cracked the PVC. I have a question regarding the replacement of valves in the future if a manifold with unions is used, as shown in your video. Wouldn't this only allow identical valves to be replaced? I would think different valves would be longer or shorter than your existing valves. So if your valve is old enough, you could have to cut out some PVC to repair, correct?
I put the valves on the side of the house- similar to gas meters or other utility and not anywhere near turf or shrubbery plantings-and out of view. No mud, or running wires to worry about with shovels. Almost simple to service. That’s how they did it in the 1950s.
Watching your video sir, helping me install my sprinkler in my backyard, to me feel so good after I install, first time in my life install sprinkler.?Auto drain valve it help for winters or every time you sprinkler turn off water drain out?
Automatic drains on supply lines only drain once a year when the stop and waste valve is shut off. Drains on zone lines drain every time the sprinkler valve shuts off.
There was excess dirt? Was the valve box bigger than the old one? I would have compacted around the box and pipes. The hole might settle over time and you would have a dip in your yard.
Valve box was the same size. On some manifolds I've done I had to find more dirt and on others there was extra dirt when backfilling. I haven't figured out the "why" on this yet. PVC pipe and fittings are brittle and if you're not careful you can snap a fitting compacting the soil.
Great video! I am a novice and am using your video to replace my old manifold. Question: why is there a 1”x3x4” bushing on the 2nd line but not the first line?
The sprinkler valves are one inch. One station pipe is 1" and the other station pipe is 3/4". A PVC slip bushing is needed to transition from the 1" valve size to the 3/4" pipe size.
Thank you very much, it's very instructional and very helpful. I have two questions. What is the funny line for? the drainage vales automatically drain the line after pressure is gone, how does it work or just a mechanism like check valve?
Funny pipe feeds the sprinkler head. The automatic drain has a rubber diaphragm that shuts off when the pressure hits and opens when the pressure is off.
These videos are fantastic. I just received a quote for $11k for a 1000sqft lawn. Going to learn to do it myself but the right way. I love your product recommendations. Do you have an overview of irrigation components or options that are beneficial?
$11K sounds steep for a 1000 square feet. I like Action manifolds, Rain Bird valves, heads, and controller. PVC Schedule 40 pipe, Christy's Red Hot Blue Glue, Purple Primer, and Wheeler 5290 pipe cutters. Shoot me an email if you have more questions.
@@Iscaper I have a question about backflows. My town requires one and I understand the purpose. I've seen them above and at ground level. Any ideas? What's your email? I saw a form on your website, is that the best way?
@@NotNicoleSlayer You have to install what your town requires. I would check with them. It may need to be inspected also. Many cities are now requiring reduced pressure backflow preventers installed above ground. You can use the email form on my website.
one thing that just dawned on me is the valves were not anti-siphon valves. if there was not a master anti-siphon valve upstream somewhere in many municipalities that installation would be illegal. in CA even the anti-siphon valves need to be 12" above the highest sprinkler
iScaper1 so I noticed that The majority of the valves these days are threaded on both ends well today I installed the valve and guess what it started leaking on one side!!! Had to cut the pipe in the valve out I think I’m going to search for a valve that you can just glue like the one that I had previously. I’m calling it a day since I was at it for a couple of hours plus another few more hrs replacing 5 new sprinkler heads. will try to finish up tomorrow.
It's Rain Bird funny pipe (SPXFLEX100). It's flexible sprinkler tubing that makes it easier to install sprinkler heads. In the video I used a coupling to connect two pieces of funny pipe that feed a sprinkler head.
Nice video. Very helpful. Question, why did you do a drain valve on the two lines but outside the green box so you can't get to it to drain those lines?
Wonderful video!! Great explanation and formal, thank you! 8:54- Why do you glue a coupling onto the first zone valve then short piece of pipe then a T then another short piece of pipe? I understand you said to get it away from the box, but why and why do it twice basically?
Good points. I didn't want to do anymore digging, so I glued in the coupling and short piece of pipe to get the tee away from the sidewall of the trench.
Thank you for the very informative video. I'm using to replace my 6 valve manifold. The sprinkler lines were placed concrete and not spaced well for either the use of a straight or 45 connection to the sprinkler valve. Is there a flexible pipe that you would recommend that I could use instead?
@@Iscaper ii've seen it at home depot and actually used it for splicing in a line that was at a difficult angle. it flexible but not like a garden hose flexible... it's still rather stiff
this is one of the best training videos I have ever seen! Are you a Teacher by trade? Anyway, we have a 6 valve system and it is not in a box. It works but is too wide for our box and to get a box that fits, the cost is prohibitive. We would like to put it in a irrigation box but with the diagram we have now, 6 valves accross, it won't fit. can we put 3 valves on top and 3 on the bottom and attach them somehow to a DIY manifold with PVC? Or perhaps you have a better suggestion?
Thanks for the feedback. I wouldn't try putting 3 valves on top of the other 3 valves because if you have valve trouble the lower valves would be difficult to work on. You can buy a jumbo valve box for $70 that is 24"L x 18"W. If that is still too small could 2 standard valve boxes 19"L x 14"W work? Put 3 valves in one box and 3 in the 2nd box. You would need enough room between valves 3 & 4 for the ends of the two boxes to touch. I hope this helps.
if i can offer a suggestion to improve the assembly. after putting together EACH joint, wipe off the bead of cement that is at the end of the fitting. if not, that build up continues to attack the PVC and causes microcracks long past when the actual join is cured. these microcracks can propagate thru the PVC due to vibrations caused by flowing water. these cracks can encircle the entire pipe and the pipe will fail while actually looking like it was cut... then you have a failure with a fitting with a piece of pipe in it and a more difficult repair. if you read the instruction for the cement and it says to wipe it off... but most people don't read the instructions. i experienced the problem myself and was bewildered then discovered the reason when i was involved with a golf construction and a RainBird rep came out to "train" everyone on the proper process. I thought "who needs training. it's so simple." when he said that i thought "oh, that's what caused that failure at my home sprinkler system... the training was worth it for no other reason than that bit of information
The manifold connection system looks good. But I really don't like rainbird. The company make a new set of valves and doesn't care about any spare parts for previous products. When a solenoid fails, you need to replace the whole thing.
@@Iscaper Thank you! But mine are APAS100 type. Rainbird changed the size of solenoid a little bit and it cannot be used on the older valves so we need to replace the valves. I really hate it when a company does not care its customer. I used almost everything from Rainbird when I installed the system. Now I tried to avoid it whenever possible.
great instructional video but learned in comments you no longer prefer rainbird valves contrary to opening comments about best quality. May i ask why you dont use pte tape on coupling threaded nipples to valve? thanks
Yes, you can open the solenoid a 1/4 turn counter clockwise to turn the valve on manually. If you don't want to run timer wire to a timer you could install a battery powered timer in the valve box. The ESP-9V battery operated controller can run between 1-6 valves depending on your situation. Here's a link: www.rainbird.com/products/esp-9v-battery-operated-controller
because the drains are on the supply side... i think the only time they drain is when the the system shut off valve is closed and a valve is opened causing the auto-drain to drain. if it was AFTER the drain it would drain after each cycle of the valve... that could be a problem
How about the Orbit 3-Valve Inline Manifold Assembly available at homedepot and lowes? Is it of good quality? Also do I have to use an auto drain for Florida weather?
I have been criticized for installing Action manifolds rather than gluing up a PVC manifold. It is always from someone who does not have to deal with repairing the valves in the future!
A Slip manifold won’t need to be repaired... at least not for 30 years or freeze damage which shouldn’t happen if your using king drains.... which I don’t recommend using either. Brass cross top gate valves are the way to go... I live in Denver
question about the auto bleeder valves.. when the water is shut off and the zone drains out, dont you run into the problem with water hammer since the pipes are empty. I would leave the pipes full and if the system is in a freeze area, it should be blown out with air before freezing temperatures
In the video I opened a sprinkler valve to bleed the air from the supply line. There is no water hammer in the zone lines because the heads pop up to bleed off the air.
Water hammer isn't caused by air in the pipes, its caused by the velocity of water exceeding the designated rating for that size of pipe, I believe its 5ft per second for most.
Most residential sprinkler systems have 1" supply lines and 3/4" zone lines. The number of heads you can use on each zone depends on how many GPM (gallons per minute) each head uses.
An automatic drain opens when a sprinkler valve shuts off and drains the sprinkler line. The one I put in the manifold would open in the fall when the stop & waste valve is shut off to drain the manifold. Automatic drains keep components of a sprinkler system from freezing and breaking.
@@Iscaper They also fail over time. I dont recommend them. You also installed them on the laterals so close to that valve box that after a few water cycles, that valve box is eventually going to have water in the bottom.
@@1Builtcummins I've been using King auto drains for over 20+ years with no problems. When we bought this house the sprinkler system had no drains so whenever I make a repair I add them in.
How would you convert a PVC manifold to use unions? I have PVC on the supply side & poly on the output (downstream) side. I have 2 bad valves. What a pain to swap out.
The Action manifold can be glued to a 3/4", 1", or 1-1/4" PVC supply line. You just need to buy the correct buttress adapter to fit the supply line you have. You can also buy poly adapters for the downstream side.
why are some valves installed above ground (from my experience) and then I see your valves are a or below ground level. Ground level looks like the best way to cover them using the green box. My valves are installed above ground and about a foot above ground level. Can I replumb mine so they are ground level?? any consequences??
Some local water districts require anti-siphon valves and/or backflow preventers to be installed above ground. I would check with yours. If they don't have these requirements you could retro-fit the manifold to be at ground level.
Do you know if those PVC “in-line” backflow preventer they sell at HD for about $12 would work on the outflow side of the irrigation valve. Pretty low pressure there.
Thanks for the video. I have a stupid question. Is there a system for the installation of a watering system that does not require wire? (The system would be wireless and can communicate with the main part via electronic means.) thanks
You can buy a battery operated controller that fits in the valve box. Depending on your needs you can run 1-6 valves. This controller can't communicate with a smartphone like the Wifi controllers can. Here's a link: www.rainbird.com/products/esp-9v-battery-operated-controller?gclid=Cj0KCQiA7qP9BRCLARIsABDaZzhz9rtzrlj15dRA2pDqGNRyncMj5Zm3HGAhkmoHmb7NV5ouSGb59rcaAiKUEALw_wcB
Yes there is a system like that its developed by hunter, I was able to get familiar with it when I worked at the Dallas Zoo. It is very expensive but worth it if you have alot of land.
I was a little surprised that you didn’t check for any leaks before replacing dirt and sod. Also I do not trust drainage check valves for malfunctioning in the future-been there done that-. I would never use them or trust them. Blowing out the lines for winterization works best for me. I have usually used anti siphon valves because of the mess and complications associated with inline valves and boxes with exactly your problem here. Enjoyed your video, however.
I did pressure the manifold before backfilling at 14:50 in the video. I've been using the King auto drains for 20+ years with no problems, but as you say blowing out sprinkler lines is another good option for winterizing. Good comments, thanks for posting.
My sprinkle system is not working with the program. It works manually when I turn the valve on. Can you please tell me whether the problem is with sprinkle valve or solenoid? The programmer seems working. Thank you!
The most common problem with sprinkler valve is the solenoid, but it could also be the timer wire between the controller and valve. Here's a link to a video that might help: ruclips.net/video/dSSyMnLA4Yw/видео.html
I am new to sprinkler repair as a homeowner. I am trying to watch as many videos I can before I could get the idea ( Am I capable? How hard is it? Special tools needed? etc)
This is THE BEST VIDEO ON Sprinkler system (valve replacement) I have ever seen. Period.
No shaking. No wind noise, No unnecessary fillers. Top notch (Part annotations were the best) You are a treasure for beginners like me.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Now that’s the kind of workmanship you don’t see often enough. Properly planned and well executed 👍 no messy glue lines, even though it’s all buried. Well done 👍
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
it helps when everything is horizontal. plus he didnt coat the pipe the full depth of the joints. should be okay bc at the pressures it will operate but that is not the suggested process by the manufacturer
I've always wanted to install a manifold.. I have a controller and have sought out instructions like this.. Fantastic information - clean - clear and concise. Bravo!!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Outstanding! I learned a lot here. I have a "new" 25 year-old house to landscape whose sprinkler system hasn't been run apparently in years. It's connected to the water main with no backflow adapter as required by code. It's going to be a tough project for a 76 year-old, but this garden is going to be spectacular and water is essential.
Thanks Monty, I appreciate the feedback and good luck on getting your sprinkler system up and running.
I remember finding your channel over 11 years ago when I was heavily interested in sprinkler and irrigation systems and I recently found your channel once again suddenly years later, it's really interesting after all of these years you are still making footage about them. :)
Thanks for watching and welcome back 🙂
what a clean presentation! your editing and narration is fantastic. No fluff. Just a straight forward educational video.
Thanks Tony, I appreciate the feedback on how the video was made.
I am impressed the fact you did put the dirt on a tarp and didn't massacrated that lawn digging small cuts.
Thank you for your response. It just seemed under the radar to me in your video so that’s why I must have glazed over it. Unlike the more “modern” designs of inline valves whi have become the norm, my anti siphon valves are much easier to service when needed. My brother has inline heads and they are not easy to access and when there is a problem, they’re a royal headache and a half-day project. Appreciate your getting back to me.
Are your anti-siphon valves above ground?
Very good instructional video. Due to continued issues and failures, I had all of my RainBird valves and sprinkler heads replaced with Hunter and haven't had a single issue in nine years. But maybe RainBird has improved since then.
I've been using the Rain Bird 100DVF valve for years with no problems.
Yeah ive been installing, maintaining sprinkler systems for 12 years and I tend to have much more issues with rainbird valves and heads than hunter. I only use hunter products. I've seen the seals on the dv valves melt and warp causing them to stick on if a customer waits till the middle of a hot summer to activate the system. Also, to be honest, using pvc unions is a terrible idea, the seals in the union could easy seat wrong due to a sudden surge of water or air when winterizing, causing a leak. I've seen it many time when dummies use union slip fixes instead of the glue in ones. Good pvc work though.
In my personal experience with owning a residential/commercial irrigation company. Hunter pgv valves are so far the best
I like Rain Bird DVF valves, but Hunter makes good valves also.
Just replaced my manifold with 2 valves using Action Machine manifold and watching your video. Thanks!
Do you like the Action Manifold?
@@Iscaper Yes, very happy how it turned out. I live in Utah, but from Louisiana where we don't have sprinkler systems. This is all new to me.
Great Job.... Well-conceived... a pleasure to watch you work...Thank you for sharing your installation!
Thanks for watching!
The pro at the lawn irrigation store scoffed at me when I told him I was looking for an Action manifold to replace my glued up PVC manifold. He said always glue up and forget it. I have used Action manifolds and the rainbird valves before and I love the setup. No problems or leaks thus far. I think the lawn pro just does not like the idea of losing business!
Then he is an idiot I think. To glue this things in is absolutely not maintenance friendly. Here in Germany we are screwing everything, also the pipes (using flexible pipes on the role). Must not be the better technique but there is nothing leaking anyway. Otherwise change the o-ring of the manifold and it is easily fixed for years again.
@@Tomekk123 how many times are you guys changing valves?! A proper installation makes your valves last 20yrs plus! Those premade manifolds are straight trash.
@@noeeon9910 In Germany we are building for more than 20 years and don't want to dig up everything. Not in 20, 40 or 60 years. And when we have to fix something we want to do ist most easily.
@@Tomekk123 I understand. Its logical to think of future maintenance and your kinfolk have world renown for your engineering and mechanical aptitude. However this is not the best method, or cheapest method, or quickest method and for that I say its.... trash.
@@noeeon9910 But the cheapest or the quickest method is not always the better method. But if there is a better technical method I am of course always interested.
I don't think you'll find a better video than this...
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Great video- I learned a lot more than I was looking for- your masterful cutting, measuring, and gluing techniques are very valuable lessons for me. Thanks! 👍👍 ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Awesome, thank you!
Excellent video. I am about to replace my antiquated manual valves for this setup. Thanks!
Good luck!
I just finished my 4 valve manifold. Two problems I ran into were: 3 of the 4 lateral lines were bundled together just above the main supply line. The 4th line was routed by itself above the bundle at a crazy angle. I used 45 degree elbows like you suggested to separate each line. Two of the lines would not line up easily so I used Lasko's flexible 1" pvc with push fittings to connect to the manifold valves. The other problem I had was that 3 of the 5 automatic drain valves leaked while under pressure. I used Teflon tape to stop the leaks on these and on the other 2 drains just to be sure. Everything worked great! Thanks for the help!
Why (at 12:00) do you use two 45º s (angling in the same direction with a short piece of pipe) instead of just using one 90º?
I really appreciate the calmness and cadence of your voice in delivery. You make a great a teacher.
Less friction loss with two 45° elbows than one 90° elbow.
@@Iscaper does that translate as water pressure, ultimately?
@@christopherwren6854 Pressure, flow, and velocity. Now we're getting into the weeds a bit. Velocity is how fast the water moves through the pipe. You want to try and keep that velocity around 5 fps (feet per second). My sprinkler system is fed from a 3/4" water meter. The available flow to keep the velocity around 5 fps is 9-14 gpm (gallons per minute). If I use 10 gpm on a sprinkler zone (when I add up the flow from the sprinkler nozzles), the pressure loss in 100' of pipe is 8.75 psi. I have high pressure where I live which is around 80 psi, so losing 8.75 psi is not a big deal. I would also need to account for pressure loss through fittings and tees. If I tried to use 14 gpm in the example I just gave the velocity goes to 8.75 fps and the psi loss would be 16.32 psi per 100' of pipe. So now you can see how quickly a sprinkler system with too many heads on a sprinkler zone can have performance issues even though the homeowner says they have a lot of pressure. A sprinkler system with low pressure to start with is even worse. This was the most common problem I encountered in my landscape business.
@@Iscaper Now that you've gone into the weeds, can you go further? I have a trouble zone on my system that I inherited from the previous homeowner. There are 6 heads on the zone, and it's the longest run of piping of all zones. I have 60psi at my spigot with a pressure gauge, but no way to test pressure at the sprinkler heads at this point. Sprinkler heads I'm using are rainbird 42sa rotary heads. I get coverage, but feel like I should have a longer throw based on this sprinkler heads rating. I'm not getting coverage from head to head.
I ordered a couple of Hunter I20 heads to let me use the flow control and shut off a couple of sprinkler heads to see how it affects the others on the zone. What are other fixes aside from fewer sprinkler heads? Would replacing the nozzles with something allowing less flow be helpful?
Would you mind explaining the relationship of PSI, GPM, and how to determine the number of heads to use based on these findings?
Thanks for the great videos!
@@Iscaper Thank you so much for your time in taking to explain this. I went online today and purchased two Action Manifolds from their site. Yes, a bit costly, but as insurance for future repair costs, the piece-of-mind is something I like to have. And I told them to give you a nod. ;) Thanks again. ps - I'm incorporating two 45s when over one 90 when reasonable!
very nice install. my only suggestion would have been to place a small piece of landscape fabric under the vales and box and then before adding the outside dirt, tape it to the outside o the box below the top to keep dirt from entering.
Good tip, thanks for posting.
Great suggestion, I usually place crushed rock.
i just redid a 7-valve manifold that was spread thru 3 boxes. who ever installed it used landscape fabiric but the boxes still had dirt in them above the fabric... maybe it helped but it did not solve the problem
Not sure Landscape fabric is correct, it stops weeds, but I'm not sure if it stops soil. I'd use Duraweb non-woven Geotextile Fabric, it stops the soil from getting through. Or some thing similar like the drain pipe sock that stops soil from clogging the pipe.
My anti-siphon valves are all above ground and very accessible if they need servicing. No mess like you had to deal with. I guess I’m old school and prefer it that way, I even use clock timers; I tried the digital but was more comfortable with the old clock method. I don’t need wifi to water my lawn.
Underground valves can be a problem, but in my installation if there is future valve trouble I simply have to undo the unions in the manifold to service the faulty valve. I shouldn't have to do any digging in the future.
Above ground valves like you have are much easier to work on but for some homeowners there is an appearance issue, they don't want to see sprinkler valves poking out of the ground. There is also a bursting risk above ground from mowers and foot traffic.
Thank you for making this Detailed Video..
Glad it was helpful!
That’s a nice soft dirt. When I dig a hole, it is 50% rocks, 48% roots and 2% hard dirt.
That sounds difficult 😕
for the past 20 years my dad has been adding more and more rocks to the yard. he will landscape with 1/2 inch to 1 inch rocks then when he gets bored and wants to redo the landscaping he will move the rocks to "low" spots in the yard then cover them with top soil. his yard looks like it has hundreds of mini burial mounds.
I had a good chuckle at the digging portion around 1:17. Had this been in my area of the world, the scene would be a little different. Great vid, as always, Mr Kerry.
What's the scene like where you live?
Fantastic, in-depth video......thanks for all the work you put into it.
I guess I've been doing everything sprinkler and valve related wrong for 30 years. Wow.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Do automatic drain valves need a cavity left below them or does the water just drain out and soak directly into the ground?
If an automatic drain valve is installed somewhere else in the yard (at the lowest point of a zone for example) should an access box be added or is the automatic drain valve intended to be "bury it and forget it"?
Thank you for a slower paced video that takes time to explain the details with no distracting music. Thank you!
Automatic drains are pretty much install and forget them. I've never had trouble with the King auto drains. When the drain opens it seeps water into the soil. I would only install pea gravel under the drain if you have a heavy clay soil.
great video very clean and informative !!! thanks for creating this for us.
Thanks Tim!
I love how at the end of the video, he sets the valve box gently on the pvc and it's completely flush with the sod. This rarely ever happens, you end up having to cut the valve box with a sawsall and moving a bunch of dirt around. It's a huge pain in the ass.
yep, not sure why he put the box right on top of the pvc, seems like any easy failure point if someone steps on the box. crack.
Thanks for the tip on scoring the pipe before cutting. I did not know that....I'm a female handy person so sometimes I don't know what should be obvious!
Glad to help, I learned this trick the hard way working on old brittle PVC Class 200 pipe.
@@Iscaper Do you have advice/video on replacing a valve? I cut the old valve off, but I had a hard time getting it to fit! Should the ideal setting be that both ends be a male/female so that you can rotate the valve and screw it in? I ended up having to lift up the end of the 3/4 pvc to force it into the rest of the valve. I made a darn mess! It didn't go in straight! (I was working with an existing PVC pipe already in the ground).
@@roadrunner123 I'm assuming you have a manifold built with male adapters connecting to the sprinkler valves. Usually you make a cut down stream from the valve, then spin the old valve out of the male adapter in the manifold. Then you apply thread tape or use teflon paste to the male adapter in the manifold. Next thread a male adapter with thread tape or teflon paste into the outlet of the new valve. Then spin the inlet of the new valve onto the male adapter in the manifold. Buy a quick fix repair coupling to make the connection from the outlet male adapter to the sprinkler pipe. Here's a link on using a quick fix coupling: ruclips.net/video/eQ8uD1Bcny0/видео.html
@@Iscaper Oh wow! I get it. The quick fix allows you to slide it back and then forward to glue in. I made a big mistake. I cut the old valve off in two places which was unnecessary since I could have cut it further away and just twisted it off!!! 🤣 Like I said, I forced the 3/4 pipe into a coupler! Surprisingly, it worked, but I get now. Thank you!
@@roadrunner123 Your welcome, hopefully it will be easier the next time you do this.
Thank you for sharing, great video precise to the point didn’t lag heard everything you had to say clearly very impressed with your video. Great job.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
This is an awesome build!!!! Thanks for the lessons!!
Thanks Bryan for watching.
One of the best DIY videos I have seen. Love the fast motion and list of items used.
Thanks, I appreciate feedback on how the video was made.
Wow! This is an awesome and fantastically done video. Thank you!!!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you so much for this video! Incredibly helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video and excellent work. One question I’m not familiar with the automatic drain. Can you explain why that’s needed
Its for systems in areas where it can experience freezing temperatures, these drains are there to drain the water out of your pipes so they don't crack, just an ever so slight trickle.
When the stop & waste valve is shut off in the fall, the automatic drain opens to drain the supply lines. This helps prevent freeze damage in colder climates.
Excellent, high quality and informative video.
Much appreciated!
Thank you for the detail and precise information, Very Good Video!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
@@Iscaper I just now noticed that you just lay the box on top of the pipes and never make cuts to fit the around the pipes. you can imagine what I'm doing these days
@@4430saltonI did that so the top of the box would fit flush with the grass.
Thanks for the Info !it really helps!@@Iscaper
@@4430salton You're welcome!!
What brand and model are those red pipe cutters. I can’t find a good pair to save my life. Thanks! Great content.
Wheeler Rex models 5290 or 5291.
We are presently installing a new sprinkler system which entails attaching the backflow prevention to a PEX feed line then into the manifold. How would you attach the PEX line to the galvanized backflow prevention system; then how to connect the galvanized section to the PVC valves? Btw, very well described installation video.
I would probably use PEX brass male and female adapters to make the connections.
0:24 - You need to get yourself an Underhill Gulp Pro A-G12S-C. Not cheap but way better than a cup for removing water from a hole in the ground. Lots of other water removal uses as well.
Thanks for the info!
Very well done video. I am having to replace my PVC manifold (which has no unions) because whoever installed my valve box had it sitting right on the PVC supply line coming into my manifold. I guess someone put some weight on the top of the valve box and and it cracked the PVC. I have a question regarding the replacement of valves in the future if a manifold with unions is used, as shown in your video. Wouldn't this only allow identical valves to be replaced? I would think different valves would be longer or shorter than your existing valves. So if your valve is old enough, you could have to cut out some PVC to repair, correct?
Good point. I've been using Rain Bird 100DVF valves for years so obtaining a new valve for replacement of an old faulty valve hasn't been a problem.
I put the valves on the side of the house- similar to gas meters or other utility and not anywhere near turf or shrubbery plantings-and out of view. No mud, or running wires to worry about with shovels. Almost simple to service. That’s how they did it in the 1950s.
Sounds like a nice setup.
Watching your video sir, helping me install my sprinkler in my backyard, to me feel so good after I install, first time in my life install sprinkler.?Auto drain valve it help for winters or every time you sprinkler turn off water drain out?
Automatic drains on supply lines only drain once a year when the stop and waste valve is shut off. Drains on zone lines drain every time the sprinkler valve shuts off.
Nicely explained.
Thanks for watching.
There was excess dirt? Was the valve box bigger than the old one? I would have compacted around the box and pipes. The hole might settle over time and you would have a dip in your yard.
Valve box was the same size. On some manifolds I've done I had to find more dirt and on others there was extra dirt when backfilling. I haven't figured out the "why" on this yet. PVC pipe and fittings are brittle and if you're not careful you can snap a fitting compacting the soil.
Always enjoy your videos, looks like maybe you have done this a time or two. thank you
A few times. I'm often amazed how much shoddy work is done out there by landscape and sprinkler contractors.
Great job and great presentation.
Thanks Tomas, I appreciate feedback on how the video was made.
Great video! I am a novice and am using your video to replace my old manifold. Question: why is there a 1”x3x4” bushing on the 2nd line but not the first line?
The sprinkler valves are one inch. One station pipe is 1" and the other station pipe is 3/4". A PVC slip bushing is needed to transition from the 1" valve size to the 3/4" pipe size.
@@Iscaper Makes sense, thank you!
VERY instructive, thank you.
Thanks Peter, I appreciate the feedback.
Great explanation
Glad it was helpful!
If the action manifold is designed for a 1" pipe, is it ok if I have a 1.25" main line? Can I just use an adaptor to go from 1" to 1.25"?
Yes, just use a 1-1/4" x 1" slip bushing. You'll probably need an 1-1/4" coupling also.
@@Iscaper Excellent videos by the way! You have a way of making things very clear and straight forward!
Nice job, man! I was yhinking about doing the same dang thing!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much, it's very instructional and very helpful. I have two questions. What is the funny line for? the drainage vales automatically drain the line after pressure is gone, how does it work or just a mechanism like check valve?
Funny pipe feeds the sprinkler head. The automatic drain has a rubber diaphragm that shuts off when the pressure hits and opens when the pressure is off.
@@Iscaper So what purpose does the auto drain valve serve? I can only assume it is a northern thing for furoxan pipes... I am in Florida!
Couple of questions: manufacture/ part# for your barbed fittings you used and the drain valve thank
Manifold parts are listed at 5:23 in the video and barb fittings are listed at 14:12 in the video.
These videos are fantastic. I just received a quote for $11k for a 1000sqft lawn. Going to learn to do it myself but the right way. I love your product recommendations. Do you have an overview of irrigation components or options that are beneficial?
$11K sounds steep for a 1000 square feet. I like Action manifolds, Rain Bird valves, heads, and controller. PVC Schedule 40 pipe, Christy's Red Hot Blue Glue, Purple Primer, and Wheeler 5290 pipe cutters. Shoot me an email if you have more questions.
@@Iscaper I have a question about backflows. My town requires one and I understand the purpose. I've seen them above and at ground level. Any ideas? What's your email? I saw a form on your website, is that the best way?
@@NotNicoleSlayer You have to install what your town requires. I would check with them. It may need to be inspected also. Many cities are now requiring reduced pressure backflow preventers installed above ground. You can use the email form on my website.
Beautiful job!
Thank you!
Very helpful thanks 🙏
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Which manifold would you use for a drip system? Great video well done learned a lot thank you
I would use Action manifolds. For a drip system you need a pressure reducer down stream from the valve and a filter.
What about an orbit dripmaster 67790? It comes pre-assembled as a valve with a pressure reducer and filter on the down stream side.
@@jlgano I'm not a big Orbit fan but let me know how the dripmaster 67790 works for you.
one thing that just dawned on me is the valves were not anti-siphon valves. if there was not a master anti-siphon valve upstream somewhere in many municipalities that installation would be illegal. in CA even the anti-siphon valves need to be 12" above the highest sprinkler
Great video 👍🏻
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Great detail👍👍👍
Thanks Herbert for watching.
Very nice video sprinklers
Thanks.
Action Machine manifolds is the way to go!! Fixing to replace my old Valve!! Thank you Carey!
Btw.... what source did you use to buy the unions?
I bought mine at a plumbing supply here in SLC. You can buy them online, here's a link: buyactionproducts.com/
iScaper1 thank you very much sir. Appreciate it! Stay safe out there
iScaper1 so I noticed that The majority of the valves these days are threaded on both ends well today I installed the valve and guess what it started leaking on one side!!! Had to cut the pipe in the valve out I think I’m going to search for a valve that you can just glue like the one that I had previously. I’m calling it a day since I was at it for a couple of hours plus another few more hrs replacing 5 new sprinkler heads. will try to finish up tomorrow.
excellent video
Thanks!
what is the flex rubber hose are for? thank you for great video.
It's Rain Bird funny pipe (SPXFLEX100). It's flexible sprinkler tubing that makes it easier to install sprinkler heads. In the video I used a coupling to connect two pieces of funny pipe that feed a sprinkler head.
Nice video. Very helpful. Question, why did you do a drain valve on the two lines but outside the green box so you can't get to it to drain those lines?
They are automatic drains so I don't need to "get" to them. They open when the pressure is off.
@@Iscaper got it. Thanks
Wonderful video!! Great explanation and formal, thank you! 8:54- Why do you glue a coupling onto the first zone valve then short piece of pipe then a T then another short piece of pipe? I understand you said to get it away from the box, but why and why do it twice basically?
Good points. I didn't want to do anymore digging, so I glued in the coupling and short piece of pipe to get the tee away from the sidewall of the trench.
@@Iscaper what value does that give you later?
@@Iscaper Could've put the tee with auto drain first, then position tee with vertical in line with zone pipe for a straight shot, no?
@@rlhearn Yes that's an option also, but I did the angles so I wouldn't have to cut slots in the valve box later.
Thank you for the very informative video. I'm using to replace my 6 valve manifold. The sprinkler lines were placed concrete and not spaced well for either the use of a straight or 45 connection to the sprinkler valve. Is there a flexible pipe that you would recommend that I could use instead?
I know there is a flexible PVC that is used for swimming pools but I've never tried it on a sprinkler system.
@@Iscaper ii've seen it at home depot and actually used it for splicing in a line that was at a difficult angle. it flexible but not like a garden hose flexible... it's still rather stiff
this is one of the best training videos I have ever seen! Are you a Teacher by trade? Anyway, we have a 6 valve system and it is not in a box. It works but is too wide for our box and to get a box that fits, the cost is prohibitive. We would like to put it in a irrigation box but with the diagram we have now, 6 valves accross, it won't fit. can we put 3 valves on top and 3 on the bottom and attach them somehow to a DIY manifold with PVC? Or perhaps you have a better suggestion?
Thanks for the feedback. I wouldn't try putting 3 valves on top of the other 3 valves because if you have valve trouble the lower valves would be difficult to work on. You can buy a jumbo valve box for $70 that is 24"L x 18"W. If that is still too small could 2 standard valve boxes 19"L x 14"W work? Put 3 valves in one box and 3 in the 2nd box. You would need enough room between valves 3 & 4 for the ends of the two boxes to touch. I hope this helps.
I LEARN HOW TO CONNECT THE PIPE FROM YOU
Thanks for watching.
if i can offer a suggestion to improve the assembly. after putting together EACH joint, wipe off the bead of cement that is at the end of the fitting. if not, that build up continues to attack the PVC and causes microcracks long past when the actual join is cured. these microcracks can propagate thru the PVC due to vibrations caused by flowing water. these cracks can encircle the entire pipe and the pipe will fail while actually looking like it was cut... then you have a failure with a fitting with a piece of pipe in it and a more difficult repair.
if you read the instruction for the cement and it says to wipe it off... but most people don't read the instructions. i experienced the problem myself and was bewildered then discovered the reason when i was involved with a golf construction and a RainBird rep came out to "train" everyone on the proper process. I thought "who needs training. it's so simple." when he said that i thought "oh, that's what caused that failure at my home sprinkler system... the training was worth it for no other reason than that bit of information
Great video!
Thanks!
Should I use automatic drain on a project in Texas where its usually cool in the winter and hot in the summer
If you don't run the risk of freezing temperatures, you don't need automatic drains.
You are a pro !
Thanks!
The manifold connection system looks good. But I really don't like rainbird. The company make a new set of valves and doesn't care about any spare parts for previous products. When a solenoid fails, you need to replace the whole thing.
You can buy a replacement solenoid for the valves (100DVF) used in this video.
@@Iscaper Thank you! But mine are APAS100 type. Rainbird changed the size of solenoid a little bit and it cannot be used on the older valves so we need to replace the valves. I really hate it when a company does not care its customer. I used almost everything from Rainbird when I installed the system. Now I tried to avoid it whenever possible.
Good information thanks Bhai
Thanks!
We do a lot of work with PE connectors with felx tubes
great instructional video but learned in comments you no longer prefer rainbird valves contrary to opening comments about best quality. May i ask why you dont use pte tape on coupling threaded nipples to valve? thanks
I do prefer Rain Bird valves. Valves in video are Rain Bird 100DVF.
@@Iscaper what about the teflon tape question
@@markbrown2781 Action manifold fittings have o-rings so thread tape isn't needed.
Can we turn manually the valves without turning the Manual in the timer? Thank you.
Yes, you can open the solenoid a 1/4 turn counter clockwise to turn the valve on manually. If you don't want to run timer wire to a timer you could install a battery powered timer in the valve box. The ESP-9V battery operated controller can run between 1-6 valves depending on your situation. Here's a link: www.rainbird.com/products/esp-9v-battery-operated-controller
Could you have used some sort of flex tubing instead of bunch of different elbows to the pipe with funny pipe?
Flexible PVC might work but I would still need one 90 degree angle.
You didn't think to mark the timer wires? Which one gos to which device?
In my case the white wire is the common and colored wires are the station wires.
I hope there is a drain pipe in the area of those king drains. It may be a sloppy lawn area
because the drains are on the supply side... i think the only time they drain is when the the system shut off valve is closed and a valve is opened causing the auto-drain to drain. if it was AFTER the drain it would drain after each cycle of the valve... that could be a problem
How about the Orbit 3-Valve Inline Manifold Assembly available at homedepot and lowes? Is it of good quality?
Also do I have to use an auto drain for Florida weather?
No, I'm not a big fan of Orbit products. I would go with the Action manifold.
I have been criticized for installing Action manifolds rather than gluing up a PVC manifold. It is always from someone who does not have to deal with repairing the valves in the future!
Excellent point, thanks for posting.
A Slip manifold won’t need to be repaired... at least not for 30 years or freeze damage which shouldn’t happen if your using king drains.... which I don’t recommend using either. Brass cross top gate valves are the way to go... I live in Denver
Excellent VIdeo
Thanks Dennis, I appreciate the feedback.
Great video.
Thanks!
Great video.
question about the auto bleeder valves.. when the water is shut off and the zone drains out, dont you run into the problem with water hammer since the pipes are empty. I would leave the pipes full and if the system is in a freeze area, it should be blown out with air before freezing temperatures
In the video I opened a sprinkler valve to bleed the air from the supply line. There is no water hammer in the zone lines because the heads pop up to bleed off the air.
Water hammer isn't caused by air in the pipes, its caused by the velocity of water exceeding the designated rating for that size of pipe, I believe its 5ft per second for most.
Can I use your steps to build a manifold for my irrigation lines made with 1/2 inch poly tube? If yes, what parts should I use?
Yes. You could glue a 1" x 1/2" bushing into the buttress x spigot adapter then thread a 1/2" male adapter from the poly pipe into the bushing.
The question shouldn't be can you... it should be should you...
Can I put all the valves together at one spot and not all over the property ?
what is the right side of tubing for the system and the amount of sprinkler that I can have by zone ?
Most residential sprinkler systems have 1" supply lines and 3/4" zone lines. The number of heads you can use on each zone depends on how many GPM (gallons per minute) each head uses.
What is an automatic drain and why do I need one?
An automatic drain opens when a sprinkler valve shuts off and drains the sprinkler line. The one I put in the manifold would open in the fall when the stop & waste valve is shut off to drain the manifold. Automatic drains keep components of a sprinkler system from freezing and breaking.
@@Iscaper They also fail over time. I dont recommend them. You also installed them on the laterals so close to that valve box that after a few water cycles, that valve box is eventually going to have water in the bottom.
@@1Builtcummins I've been using King auto drains for over 20+ years with no problems. When we bought this house the sprinkler system had no drains so whenever I make a repair I add them in.
Wow someone put slip fixes before , must have been a diy guy.
How would you convert a PVC manifold to use unions? I have PVC on the supply side & poly on the output (downstream) side. I have 2 bad valves. What a pain to swap out.
The Action manifold can be glued to a 3/4", 1", or 1-1/4" PVC supply line. You just need to buy the correct buttress adapter to fit the supply line you have. You can also buy poly adapters for the downstream side.
We careful when you buy unions. Make sure they are standard threads that you can buy locally. Otherwise it's a huge waste of time.
Very nice
Thanks for watching.
why are some valves installed above ground (from my experience) and then I see your valves are a or below ground level. Ground level looks like the best way to cover them using the green box. My valves are installed above ground and about a foot above ground level. Can I replumb mine so they are ground level?? any consequences??
Some local water districts require anti-siphon valves and/or backflow preventers to be installed above ground. I would check with yours. If they don't have these requirements you could retro-fit the manifold to be at ground level.
Do you know if those PVC “in-line” backflow preventer they sell at HD for about $12 would work on the outflow side of the irrigation valve. Pretty low pressure there.
@@larryconover3925 You probably mean check valve instead of backflow preventer, but yes an inline check valve would work.
@@Iscaper just wanted to thank you for taking the time to respond. much appreciated.
@@larryconover3925 You're welcome 🙂
Thanks for the video. I have a stupid question. Is there a system for the installation of a watering system that does not require wire? (The system would be wireless and can communicate with the main part via electronic means.) thanks
You can buy a battery operated controller that fits in the valve box. Depending on your needs you can run 1-6 valves. This controller can't communicate with a smartphone like the Wifi controllers can. Here's a link:
www.rainbird.com/products/esp-9v-battery-operated-controller?gclid=Cj0KCQiA7qP9BRCLARIsABDaZzhz9rtzrlj15dRA2pDqGNRyncMj5Zm3HGAhkmoHmb7NV5ouSGb59rcaAiKUEALw_wcB
@@Iscaper thanks so much without the video reference I would have been lost.
Yes there is a system like that its developed by hunter, I was able to get familiar with it when I worked at the Dallas Zoo. It is very expensive but worth it if you have alot of land.
Thanks for teaching us your knowledge, God bless you! I'm learning, would you like to be my tutor? Looks like you're very patient.
Patience is a requirement when working on sprinkler systems 🙂
@@Iscaper do you have Facebook or email to contact you?
@@Iscaper l
I was a little surprised that you didn’t check for any leaks before replacing dirt and sod. Also I do not trust drainage check valves for malfunctioning in the future-been there done that-. I would never use them or trust them. Blowing out the lines for winterization works best for me. I have usually used anti siphon valves because of the mess and complications associated with inline valves and boxes with exactly your problem here. Enjoyed your video, however.
I did pressure the manifold before backfilling at 14:50 in the video. I've been using the King auto drains for 20+ years with no problems, but as you say blowing out sprinkler lines is another good option for winterizing. Good comments, thanks for posting.
Where did you purchase the manifold and automatic drains. I need to replace mine
I bought mine at a plumbing supply here in Salt Lake City. Here's a link for buying online: www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/brands/action-machine
Wow you have nice dirt. I see no roots, rocks or anything.
There was a big piece of concrete near the end of the manifold but luckily I was able to make it fit without having to bust out the concrete.
My sprinkle system is not working with the program. It works manually when I turn the valve on. Can you please tell me whether the problem is with sprinkle valve or solenoid? The programmer seems working. Thank you!
The most common problem with sprinkler valve is the solenoid, but it could also be the timer wire between the controller and valve. Here's a link to a video that might help: ruclips.net/video/dSSyMnLA4Yw/видео.html