Trenching, Pipes, & Sprinklers
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2019
- This video recorded during an actual Sprinkler Warehouse customer's sprinkler system install walks you step-by-step through the process of renting, running your pipes, and installing the sprinkler spray bodies and spray nozzles in your sprinkler system.
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Хобби
Do not use a chainsaw on roots unless you enjoy buying new chains for chainsaws. Instead, use a recip (sawzall) with a long wood-tooth blade. You'll get way more uses out of the blade and they're way cheaper/easier to replace.
You don’t buy a new chain clown you sharpen it
@@jdewitt-pn9kr actualy there 15$ so its much easier to replace .
@@TrueDaturaMindNz you don’t know how, I get it
@@jdewitt-pn9kr use a sawzall and there's nothing to sharpen or replace
@@Jungla694 that doesn’t make any sense
I’ve been doing irrigation for 30 years now and one thing I can’t stand is fixing a leak and it’s the bottom pipe. When that happens you usually have to cut the top pipes to the bottom pipe and agter you fix that one you have to go back and fix the top ones. Lay the pipes side by side as it makes it much easier.
Stunning
Awesome informational video! I had called my city and representative treated me that is was absurd to ask city employee to mark of gas, plumbing or electric. You provided the 811 and representative there very helpful and grateful I called vs digging and hoping.
In Michigan we have a hotline MISS-DIG they plant flags and post a ticket on their website. Anytime you see flags you can look online by address and it explains what it's for, and the date range of the project.
Definitely better safe than sorry but generally the city's gas lines etc are way deeper than we're digging for irrigation. I couldn't imagine having to contact the city every time before digging outside someone's house..
Very nice! I'm thinking about trying this project myself but there is so much to know.
Great Video!
I enjoyed watching your installation this crew dug the trenches with only shovels 😎👍😮🤩
Great video. Thank you
Nice video. Try putting the spoils on tarps. It's a lot cleaner and easier than scratching the spoils out of the grass. I flush my lines out before I put the heads on. I put the nozzles in all the heads on my tailgate. It's a lot easier. And you only have to get on your knees once
Billy you know everyone has their own way of doing stuff? The company that installed this may not even read what you said.
My purpose was to help others go about things in a quicker more efficient manner. Something that I've learned over 40 years. I think people would appreciate that. Learning from someone who's been on that square hundreds of times. Thank you
@@billhoffman252 okay j do the sam thing you do as well. They’re doing this for the labor. Some people just don’t give a shit like you and I. I once worked with people who would put the heads half way in the ground and didn’t even like them up the right way and wouldn’t flush the heads or didn’t wire the zones up in a good order. They didn’t even tamp the grass down or anything.
All great advice. Flush is a must every time.
So you get all your heads on without getting any dirt in the lines ?
During the pandemic, I almost applied for a sprinkler company because they were hiring installers. I watched this video, wich was new back then, and of course I didn't apply. Brutal work.
Its not that bad
Nicely done great job bro 🎉 ive got the same rain barrel.. what's the fitting for the PVC extension arm? Thanks
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
This is very helpful I work for Rain Bird irrigation it is very helpful
WOW. This is how it was done 20+ years ago. Been using flex for a number of years now. Rent a small machine to push the flex tube in the ground. No need to dig, except for the heads and fittings.
Some areas use pvc and some areas use poly pipe. I use poly pipe. So much easier.
It's way too rocky where I live
It's even better to have a drip system set up for the flower bed, but things are Wet in Houston.
You guys have that skeeter gone system that is an add on to the irrigation system.. first time I saw that I thought it was pretty cool
@@noeeon9910 you
Ccdddxf
Good video but the trenching by hand cracks me up. Here in SW Colorado with hard, dry, sun baked clay soil, you need to rent a trencher to get anything done. For hand digging valve box locations, I use a 5 gal bucket with a spout to drip water onto the area constantly for a few days prior to digging. That softens it up enough for the shovel.
Just a suggestion, but wouldnt it be better to put the wiring next to or right on the main line for the sprinklers, that way if you run into any problems you can identify which is the mainline and which are zone lines? Also i wish i was in Texas that dirt looks nice to dig ! Im from NewJersey lots of mountains and very rough compacted dirt, sometimes we remove boulders out of the ground, hand-digging here is super rough! We also use poly pipe for zone lines and Pvc for main line only.
Put your wires under pipe. So that someone cuts a pipe before they cut a wire in the future. Cut just a wire and you probably wont know it then will be hard to find.
My phone thought I was talking about myself, but it’s my neighbor that’s looking into doing this.
I have old copper piping ran for my wiring encase. Is it possible to run the wire through the soldered pipes. I'm thinking the issue would be the 90 degree turns. Any suggestions or should I just bury it? How deep?
This is a good video, if h/o tries to use this advise I can see future repair work for service techs. That's why I love videos like this, it creates a lot of work :)
I agree did you see them install that fitting pointing straight up! Haha no mention of gallons per minute to calculate how many heads to use on one zone either!!!
This install was one of the worst ones I've seen on youtube. There is a guy above in the comments who actually tried telling me this was a fine install and this is exactly how to do it.
Pipes seemed to be installed too shallow and therefore subject to certain damage from future digging, aerator tines, etc.
@@alvinlowe843 they're not, you should try installing a system in an existing landscape. You would be surprised the level of difficulty
@@michaeldavis3188 I have installed irrigation lines and heads before. And it isn't always a piece of cake, especially when done near tree roots, extremely hard/ bad soil, etc. But just because an installation is "difficult" doesn't erase the fact that several (not all) of the pipes in this video definitely seemed too shallow and more susceptible to damage (shovels, aerators, etc). Lateral pipes (from valves to sprinkler heads) s/b a minimum of 8"-10" deep. Mainlines (from pressured water source to the valves) s/b deeper.
We don’t use trenches or pvc, we use pipe pullers and poly pipe in my part of the country
Should the tech test run the system before covering it up with dirt and sod? Make sure there is no leaks
I've been installing sprinklers sine 1994. After we connect all our zones, we start filling up trenches before we test the system. If you have a leak, it can be easily fixed. I've only had one leak in all those years. If you properly join the pipes, fittings and heads you should have no problems.
Expected solvent welded plumbing to be 1/4 turned and held together for 30 secs before proceeding to next task. Expected pressure/leak test before covering with dirt.
you must not do many irrigation repairs if you wait 30 seconds after using primer and glue. You really don't need to wait that long budd
@@michaeldavis3188 yep, just 5-15 secs is fine from my experience
I am replacing all my old Rain Bird sprinklers with the newer Rain Bird Rotary sprinklers, Much more efficient, and look sharp. Important to note the length of water throw. Looking forward to seeing the final results.
Hunter pro spays are a lot better
@@AD-vf3ek Ford vs. Chevy, Coke vs. Pepsi. The only thing that matters is don't buy Orbit. Everything else is quality.
@CSN I really don’t like orbit. Such a bad brand. Orbit, Toro, and Nelson are bad brands. I don’t like the weathermatic turbo 3 heads either.
Rule of thumb: never use rvan nozzles
I have almost 2 ac of land and in desperate need of a sprinkler system but i have no idea where to start. This gave me some useful information.. thanks
Rain Bird will design a sprinkler system for you for free. All you need to do is provide them with the dimensions of the yard(s) that you want to irrigate. Go to their website for more information.
How much did this all cost, if you hired a sprinkler company.
Would I be ok digging about 4 to 5 inches in the ground for a firepit if my irrigation line runs under where i want to put firepit?
If you are saying that pvc will be 4 or 5" under a fire pit, I'm not sure i understand you correctly but if that is the case I would not recommend you try that. the pipe could get hot and melt.
5 or 7 inches of dirt between a fire and pvc isn't a good mix you. Unless you are burning little tiny fires for very short amounts of time then you might would be ok but I wouldn't try it. :)
Yes, in fact I would recommend placing your lines 1 inch below the fire pit. The heat from the fire will warm the water and provide nice, geothermal heated water. In fact, you could even run the lines right through the flames.
Not with flex but you can run it off the same lateral
Can I put 3 sprinkler heads branching off the same flex pipe? The flex pipe run will be approximately 50 ft and there will only be 4 total heads in that zone.
Take into account the amount of water pressure you have. If it’s high enough, usually around 60-80psi you should be ok. Also take into account what size nozzle you will be using to maximize coverage.
Flex pipe is used for a maximum run of 24 inches. Although running it longer is possible you don’t want to do it. If you need to add more heads at a future time you want the flow of the larger pipe. Running a long distance of flex pipe also increases the friction loss significantly.
You can say the math works but professionals don’t do it because it causes maintenance issues in the future and it’s just wrong.
Dont run flex pipe 50 feet. You will choke the pressure. Not meant to be run that far.
@@kylebrost2435 no. The math does NOT work. It's in friction loss charts.
Before the hordes flooded in, most systems were properly designed and installed. By Americans. Now most systems are crap. Especially the slave wage companies installing for builders. The people have no pride in this country and therefore no pride in their work.
2:19 good way to dull the chain! Better to use a sawzall.
Some tips:
Place threaded fittings sideways, not upright. This makes maintenance easier in the future, and lessens the likelihood of breaks.
Do not use side inlets. If you ever need to replace the actual pop up bodies, repairs are going to take a lot of digging, and a lot of unnecessary work
...and twist the cemented joint 45-90 degrees to its final position after insertion to ensure even distribution of the glue. Some plumbing inspectors will look for how the glue follows the edge of the fitting on potable water piping as an indicator of a properly assembled joint..
@@cdel46 no one inspects irrigation pipe like that.. especially a plumber... The real problem here is sch40 with Cristy's hot blue. Could've saved money and had an even more efficient system as far as pressure losses and a quicker install had they went with CL200 and regular clear solvent.
@@noeeon9910 I agree with the CL200 for all around install. Sch 40 has over 800 PSI, most homes have less than 80 psi. I never use pipe cleaner, I just apply Cristy's PVC cement, it seals faster and even with water on pipes.
@@diyhomeprojects7317 yeah it does seal faster and is made for repairs where residual water may be an issue. But be careful using the Christy's with cl200 that solvent weld is strong and will eat through the pipe at the joint if you use it in excess.
How many sprinklers for line connecting to valve
1:17 Wrong, most of Texas just had a hard freeze this year :)
And as a tech I could tell you all systems installed at 6-8" in the ground where safe. The freeze did nothing to irrigation... Pools on the other hand....
@4:40 vertical tee?
Yeah I noticed that too. You should lay the tea on its side
What dou you think the trees thought when you cut their10 cm roots???
I dunno, Karen 😝
Lot of people to make suggestions.
Just few goes on shovel.
I would have rented a chain drag trencher for the day. Much less mess, no manual trenching required and much faster.
It’s not worth it, the trenches don’t have to be that big
I agree; my wife and I installed a 5 station system in our 2nd home in S. Texas. We rented a trencher from Home Depot and finished the 50 x 90 lot in 4 hours. Day 2, we cleared the trenches, dug trenches where machine could not trench and laid out the pipes, fittings, and heads for each zone. Day 3; installed the backflow prevention device at the cross connect to the main line and started fitting all the stations. Also installed the electrical wire Day 4. Finished the last zone and heads; started back filling trenches Day 5; installed Rachio Controller and considered the job complete. Total cost with rental and materials including controller was $1,500. Saved about $2,000 on labor.
@@cyantadeo975 Disagree; the trench has to be at least 9 inches where pipes overlap.
Here in washington we use 4 inch or 6 inch pop up heads for lawn and glue 721 its got primer in it so you save time
Well. Here in tx we dont. Inspectors want to see the purple primer for one thing. Is 721 for poly pipe ?
Shouldn’t you test the lines before filling the trenches?
Yupp it would’ve been a shame that after the pipes were covered there would be water gushing out... better safe than sorry
Lol ... only if you are a noobie who doesnt trust your own work do you test the lines before you backfill LOLOL.
Regardless of a noob installing the irrigation, maybe there’s a product defect. Always check to make sure everything holds. Not sure how burying your pipe immediately is efficient or cost effective. Either way you will have to fill the trench. Why not just wait to fill the trench after you check to make sure theirs no leaks? 🤷🏽♂️
Been doing it a long time ... if it happens you re dig that area... its never very hard unless you dont know what you are doing and mess up big time..
And if its a brake or a "defective"part .. which again ivenever had happen ... you dig up ... a foot section and fix the brake? Just like a service call ... itsa lot easier to back fill as you go.. if you arent a tech i understand why you dont understand LOL
Most companies cover first. Go turning water on all that uncovered dirt will make covering up 5 times as hard. Dry soil MUCH easier to move.
Hi I am your house and for the fixing the sprinkler
The Technician in the video was marking running lines with green paint. Green paint is 811 color code for sewer. They need to stick with pink paint or white paint. Be sure to verify with your local 811 laws.
How much was that install?
Free, is was a shit install.
Cummins is such a downer.
0:02 "Laying pipe"
I've used flexible swing on my yard and don't like the flex. I prefer rigid pvc because the head stays aligned even when soil shifts or settles.
I'm over 40 years in the business. Flex pipe is a fantastic thing to use for many reasons.
@Bill Hoffman you clearly know everything. The worst part about that industry is egotistical know it alls.
easy to do in a yard that does not have an ant infestation
Noway your tearing up my yard and not paying for it ill be back with a solution!
You have to show the planning ferst.
First of all, before you start a sprinkler system you must have knowledge of some basic things. 1. Determine what your water pressure is (take a measurement at a spigot, different times of the day) 2. You need to know the meter size; 5/8 will flow 15 gallons per minute, 3/4 inch will safely flow 22 GPM 3. Make sure you have an independent electric outlet for your controller; if you have a controller on a GFCI, it when the circuit trips your program is saved on battery until the battery runs out but your system shuts off due to no power 4. Also, this video makes no mention of a cross connect to your main water line, you will need a backflow prevention device; in Texas we use a double check valve. I like to use the 1 inch double check valve. 5. Zone your stations according to pressure, meter size and distance from water meter for best results.
I was looking to see what size pipe he used for that reason, thank you
what is the point of the wiring?
The valves are solenoids and solenoids require power to run. The wires are from the controller to the valve box
How many heads we can add on one zone ?
Depending on water pressure, usually 7-8 heads max. Unless you use MP rotors
@@treyvorcamara9530 you dont go by number of heads. You go by gallons per minute. You need to be able to use pressure loss charts to design the system. While keeping velocity about 5 feet per second through pipes. Look up pressure loss through city service line for particular gpm, and loss through water meter, and valves (which is roughly 5psi or less)and length of pipe at said gpm and fittings and pressure to push up the " last head" which is usually about 20 psi. And backflow device. Add all this up and should be at least 10 percent below available static pressure . If you shouldn't push more than 12 psi per zone then that's 3 -15 foot full circles (if not low volume nozzles) or 6 half circle heads etc. Not the number of heads.
@@treyvorcamara9530 Where did you get that ? Depends on static water pressure and size of meter. Dont go by number of heads. Figure out available pressure. Or......go trial and error if you want like so many do....uuugh
If you have a water meter that measures 3/4 inch you can safe flow 22 gallons per minute. Do the math depending on head arc. Full circle is 3 GPM, half circle is 1.5 gpm and Quarter circle is .75 pgm. Place flags 12 feet apart and do a layout and the math on total GPM. Do not exceed 22 gallons with 3/4 meter (call you city to find out). Use 1 inch pipe out of the valves since gpm flow allow 22 gpm, then reduce to 3/4 once you determine flow to be under 15 gpm. NEVER use 1/2 pipe, not worth buying fittings and pipe for 3 sizes. Stick to 1 inch and 3/4 for pipes and fittings. Saves a ton of time.
Cuanto cobro por cambiar e instalar cuatro sprinkler
¿Que guey?
Southeastern Plumbing code, requires Pressurized pipe depth to be 12" minimum, depressurized pipe can be as little as 6"
Constant pressure vs sprinkler lines makes the difference.
Texas code requires 6 inches of cover.(on top of pipe ) Though, I'd recommend a little more.
I am Brazilian and I work with this system here, I want to go to the USA, the violence in my country is scary, I would like to live in a safe country. Can I work when I get there?
The Biden administration seems to be letting anyone, and everyone enter the U.S. through the southern border right now. And when you get here, you can live in California or New York and buy/sell drugs for a living.
Wire should be in a conduit
Sprinkler Warehouse sells 16 and 18 gauge direct-burial wire that is designed to be buried in a trench underground without the need for conduit. The individual electrical conducting wires are encased in a solid thermoplastic sheath that seals out moisture and protects the conductors within.
No; irrigation wire is suited for burial. It only carries 24 VAC to operate the valves. Conduit is cost prohibited.
4 pipes in one trench? Sheesh, what a pain for repairs. I didn’t realize they still used such archaic installation methods these days! How about a vibratory plow?
Vibratory plows are for simple folk with simple systems.. when the city wants 12 zones in an area less than 100 ft that's what you end up with.
@@noeeon9910 Vibratory plows are for 90% of all jobs. Using a pro sneak 360 is so much easier than digging trenches. Also PVC doesn't need to be used unless the project is massive. Even using PVC, you can pull it with the pro sneak 360.
@@pixel5341 I install a 10 zone system in 2 hours in an area no greater than 2,600 sqft with a ditch witch. It's the most efficient way in new construction. Vibratory plows are not an option.
Nothing like watching hardworking Mexicans getting it done
Ya. Usually the wrong way when nobody's looking
Okay good tips here, and a very good install. But theres a few things I'd advise not to do...
1) dont use blue glue on installs, use clear.
2) dont use swing joints they come in predetermined sizes. Use swing riser pipe and barbed els makes install fast and repairs easy.
3) dont kill your employees by making them hand dig a whole install.
Hand digging ain’t that bad especially considering the fact they only installed the system in the front yard, however using a shovel to make trenches is not a good idea it’s better to use a talacho
What do you mean "swing riser pipe"? I've used flexible swing on my yard and don't like the flex. I prefer rigid pvc because the head stays aligned even when soil shifts or settles.
@@josiahutah3712 swing riser pipe is the actually pipe used in swing joints. They come in 100' rolls and are reasonably priced. You connect them to barbed els. Now, in my experience if the ground settles or shifts I'd prefer to dig up a head a little and just adjust and tighten the dirt around it rather than to dig the head up to repair a broken nipple or T.
Why do you say not to use blue glue?
@@isaiahvaldez9147 blue glue is STRONG and great for Large PVC Repairs because it settles quickly and will still adhere if the pipe or fitting isn't completely dry. When repairing with Blue Glue make sure you wipe all the excess off the fittings or pipe, over time the excess blue glue will compromise the PVC and make it brittle causing it to leak. One of the most common reasons for leaks is excess blue glue at the fitting. Imagine a whole install like that....... Use clear, the pipe is clean and it's easy to work with. Doesn't settle as quickly so you can swiftly correct a mistake.
1:15 you re wrong buddy 😒
Such a dirty job on the gluing
Yeah looks like they use the big paintbrush instead of the small size daubers
Lateral lines laying in the same trench on top of each other is never a good idea. Any break in a line, the repair work will be ten times as hard. The pipes are also not deep enough. Good luck if you ever want to aerate this lawn. This install is a shit show.
ive ran my main line underground alongside the side fence and the control cables in a conduit saddled about 4 inches above the ground and above the main line . each station's solenoid is in a box near the fence with a tee from the wiring conduit going down into the ground box one main line 40mm with all tee offs 25mm .this saves a lot of time for maintenance and locating solenoids is a breeze
You must be a pipe puller... Laying lateral line with main and others is EXACTLY how you do it... If your worth your salt as a repair man the shit ain't hard to repair.
ROSS private I’m with you on that
A perfect example of what crew NOT to hire. Really poor design and workmanship.
If you use pvc over poly for branch lines its guaranteed service calls for years to come, kind of shitty for your customers really. SCH 200 pvc as well, at least use the sch 40. Also the use of the fucking same color coded wire for the wiring outside of the common is dogshit. I hate going to service systems that were installed poorly like this, makes things that would normally be a simple quick fix take longer.