Recently ordered the TS35-384 2-14x35mm. Looking forward to using it. I did NOT know that thermal scopes could be safely used in the day! That's a huge plus, that my misunderstanding of was holding me back from getting one.
Using an old USGI sleeping mat and cutting a small square out of it its great because its very insulating. I like it better than using a hot source because it doesn't matter if its hot or cold out - its insulating. If your target's been outside in freezing weather, the insulating square will be hot, if its scorching hot, it'll be dark. It also doesn't change the temperature around it so it won't heat up the box like a hot-hands, and unlike hot-hands its reusable
I wish you would have shown which buttons you were using so a person considering buying one would be more informed as to the process of bringing up the menu and the buttons used for zeroing !
@@workinonitsteve Nice to hear it! Can you tell me please... The specs say eye relief is 45mm or approx 1¾"... Do you need to stay within that eye relief to run this optic or can you float way out like a lot of NV and other thermals? Thank you so much. I'm trying to see if I can run this on a .458 without having to invest in eye patches. 🤣 if you know what I mean!
In the zeroing process, around the 12 min mark, the X axis coordinates seems to move opposite to what I'd expect. Bringing your reticle down makes the Y more positive, that makes sense, since you're moving your point of impact up. But the X axis goes more negative when you move it left, but in reality you're moving the point of impact to the right, I'd expect it to increase in the X direction.
Tried zeroing my Rattler today. When asked to save changes/parameters clicked yes, exited out then back to the reticle and the changes were never saved. It was back to the previous zero settings. Did several times but the scope would not retain the zeroed setting? What gives?
My rattler is WAY different. And my PIP adjusted thr window BUT NOT the scrosshairs, so its OFF!!! -- TOO damn complicated. And nobody has decent online instructions for this.
Hey boss, so you might be trying to sight it in like a traditional scope. If you’re aiming center mass and for example hit up right? You move the reticle up and right instead of low left to get to center like a regular hunting scope. Hope it helps. I did the same at first to figure out.
Yup. Just put the crosshairs where the bullet hit. So... Short version... • Aim • Shoot • Move crosshairs to POI Long version... • Aim at know point • Fire • Note point of impact • Aim at the same known point • Freeze image • Move crosshairs to point of impact • Accept changes • Confirm accuracy with fun shooting... I mean exploratory functionality testing
I started zeroing my Rattler. The x and y values are in the negative. I found that the adjustment values are opposite if I want to make further adjustments. i.e.: up is down and down is up, left is right and right is left. Is this the actual case?
He says with a traditional scope you move your impact to your crosshairs and with “thermal” it’s opposite, you move your crosshairs to the impact.. I had an old Athlon Ares that was designed wrong from the factory if I remember correctly that I had to site in and actually move the impact to my crosshairs.. nightmare.. the rest of scopes I run are ffp and all I do is walk my reticle in to my impact.. I’m not sure if what he said makes sense when it comes to thermal or not based upon agms internal coordinate system.. pos. y going down? But pos. x going to the right? Seems to me this confusion is real..
I just got mine, same question. I'm presuming for now you sight it in for different ranges/ammo grain and then set that combination to a profile. Then change profiles and store another range/ammo. Anyone else know for sure?
@@patrickbouldinkm5l143 You don't have to zero it for different ranges but you certainly could. Then yes, you would select a profile and use a single rifle and ammo combo, zero it to a yardage, cycle, zero to another yardage, etc etc. Then maybe mount it on another rifle and repeat. Good way to kill an afternoon.
OP... So you could sight it in for different yardages but you don't have to. Depending on what you're shooting, zeroing at 50 yards might not be the best thing to do if you're shooting out to 100. Check the trajectory of the caliber/load that you are using. Then zero according to what will be best for most of your shooting scenarios. Then, if you want, zero for different specific yardages.
I have been using a Rattler and just got an Adder. I love your products but can you guys do something about the manuals? They are full of errors, bad English and poor instructions that do not cover all the features.
I will SWEAR that the adjustments on my Rattler TS25-384 (firmware is AT LEAST V5.5.21_211130) work as follows: Moving the x value positive moves the RETICLE in the positive direction, and thus the point of impact moves in the NEGATIVE direction (I.e., POI moves LEFT/NEGATIVE on the axis) Moving the y value positive moves the POI in the positive direction, and thus the reticle moves in the NEGATIVE direction (i.e., the POI moves UPWARD/POSITIVE on the axis) Took me a while to realize this, since my reticle settings have always remained so close to "0" (I've never had to go to a x,y value higher than 4) AM I CRAZY? : ) I've been wanting to contact AGM re: this apparent anomaly, but just haven't gotten around to it yet...
I just watched this too (got an email from AGM) and it's not like my rattler either. So I went to the AGM web sight and searched firmware updates for Rattler TS25-384. The most recent version is V5.5.53_230113 which lists changes like "The Trajectory function is deleted" and "Zeroing Profiles are added. Freeze/zoom/decimal points are added to the zero process.". Your version (and mine too!) is an earlier version and needs to be updated.
@@strangelove777 Oh, mine had the BASIC version originally, and the updates brought MAJOR improvements, even seemingly to the image quality. But I suspected I don't have the LATEST since it has been a while since I last updated... just wondering if my experience with the x vs. y movements behaving oppositely is my imagination, and/or whether any later firmware actually addresses it if it's NOT : ) From my "cheat sheet" (operating under the V5.5.21_211130 firmware; just confirmed that as my current version): x value = RETICLE movement y value = POI movement
@@kentuckybowl-o-sticks Yes, mine behaves the same as yours (never noticed it before, I just moved the reticle to the point of impact and didn't pay attention to actual X & Y values). I have the same version 5.5.21, and was just about to try the upgrade when I saw your message. So I went into the reticle adjustment screen, and sure enough, moving the reticle to the right (positive X axis) gives a positive X value. But moving the reticle up (positive Y axis) gave me a NEGATIVE Y value.
@@strangelove777 CRAZY! That's why I added that fact to my cheat sheet! I noticed because I've never been comfortable using the "one shot" method... I'd just fire, look at the POI, and try to change my value in the "right" direction (primarily because the rifle was not immobilized in a sled or something), but eventually went "WAIT A MINUTE!" : ) As I said, it took a while because the necessary adjustments were so minimal I first thought any discrepancy was MY fault.
Hey the Rattler is just like an Adder. Yeah right. And you drive an E-bike like a muscle car - its practically the same. Maybe next time, just mention what buttons you are pressing to navigate the menus.
The best way to do it a cheaper way to do it is with cigarettes put a paper target pocke a hole set up a cigarette inside light up and you will get a small target very easy to see .cost amost nothing
Thanks! The zero method starting at 10:30 was exactly what I needed.
Recently ordered the TS35-384 2-14x35mm. Looking forward to using it. I did NOT know that thermal scopes could be safely used in the day! That's a huge plus, that my misunderstanding of was holding me back from getting one.
The only big no is dont leave it pointed at a hot surface like a fire
Very well done. Thanks for making it understandable and easy to follow.
agreed, watched several before this and was frustrated, they left stuff out - this one was right on "target" :) Thanks.
Using an old USGI sleeping mat and cutting a small square out of it its great because its very insulating. I like it better than using a hot source because it doesn't matter if its hot or cold out - its insulating.
If your target's been outside in freezing weather, the insulating square will be hot, if its scorching hot, it'll be dark. It also doesn't change the temperature around it so it won't heat up the box like a hot-hands, and unlike hot-hands its reusable
Awesome, unless I missed it, my rattler’s manual didn’t explain what “freeze” was. Now I’m “forced” to go evaluate this system, it looks so easy !
Very informative video. I just ordered a new Rattler and watching zeroing tutorials now while waiting for it to arrive :-D
I need my rattler to view this video, it’s very dark in the beginning 😊
I wish you would have shown which buttons you were using so a person considering buying one would be more informed as to the process of bringing up the menu and the buttons used for zeroing !
Boomer is like 5 buttons chill homie
This is the best video for help on these getting perfect 0
Thank you
For explaining the freeze function
Absolutely great video!
Made everything even easier to understand!
Najlepsza recenzja ustawiania celności no super
Great method for signing in your thermal!
That's an amazing video! Congratulations!
Great video, waiting for ups to deliver my rattler as I type this. Can’t wait to try it out.
How'd it go?!?!?!?
@@goodcitizen3780 it’s been pretty bad for the coyotes but I’m impressed so far.
@@workinonitsteve
Nice to hear it!
Can you tell me please...
The specs say eye relief is 45mm or approx 1¾"...
Do you need to stay within that eye relief to run this optic or can you float way out like a lot of NV and other thermals?
Thank you so much. I'm trying to see if I can run this on a .458 without having to invest in eye patches. 🤣 if you know what I mean!
Very detail and clear instructions. Will I zero it the same way in the heat of summer, in Arizona?
In the zeroing process, around the 12 min mark, the X axis coordinates seems to move opposite to what I'd expect.
Bringing your reticle down makes the Y more positive, that makes sense, since you're moving your point of impact up.
But the X axis goes more negative when you move it left, but in reality you're moving the point of impact to the right, I'd expect it to increase in the X direction.
Didn't receive those targets when I order a few weeks ago 😂
Same 🙄
Nice! now I want one.
Love it !!! Just have subscribed to your channel
That made it relatively simple! I would’ve never got that from the directions. Lol
Tried zeroing my Rattler today. When asked to save changes/parameters clicked yes, exited out then back to the reticle and the changes were never saved. It was back to the previous zero settings. Did several times but the scope would not retain the zeroed setting? What gives?
Contact support@agmglobalvision.com
My rattler doesn’t have a menu like that to zero is that an update or only for that model you’re using?
I just got mine and the zeroing profiles isn't in the menu either.
@@branonjohnson4174 i updated and got all the features
My rattler is WAY different. And my PIP adjusted thr window BUT NOT the scrosshairs, so its OFF!!! -- TOO damn complicated. And nobody has decent online instructions for this.
Please create a step by step zeroing video specifically for the Neith, it would be helpful. Yes, I’m stupid.
Please get dome lights forvyour studio
None of my thermals had a target in it that I seen.
Mine didn't come with one either
Same here also
How do I know if I need a software update ?
I went through 30 rounds and never got it zeroed, but I was also zooming in while doing it and not sure if that could have been messing me up or what
Hey boss, so you might be trying to sight it in like a traditional scope. If you’re aiming center mass and for example hit up right? You move the reticle up and right instead of low left to get to center like a regular hunting scope. Hope it helps. I did the same at first to figure out.
Yup. Just put the crosshairs where the bullet hit. So...
Short version...
• Aim
• Shoot
• Move crosshairs to POI
Long version...
• Aim at know point
• Fire
• Note point of impact
• Aim at the same known point
• Freeze image
• Move crosshairs to point of impact
• Accept changes
• Confirm accuracy with fun shooting... I mean exploratory functionality testing
I started zeroing my Rattler. The x and y values are in the negative. I found that the adjustment values are opposite if I want to make further adjustments. i.e.: up is down and down is up, left is right and right is left. Is this the actual case?
I believe my rattler is the same
He says with a traditional scope you move your impact to your crosshairs and with “thermal” it’s opposite, you move your crosshairs to the impact.. I had an old Athlon Ares that was designed wrong from the factory if I remember correctly that I had to site in and actually move the impact to my crosshairs.. nightmare.. the rest of scopes I run are ffp and all I do is walk my reticle in to my impact.. I’m not sure if what he said makes sense when it comes to thermal or not based upon agms internal coordinate system.. pos. y going down? But pos. x going to the right? Seems to me this confusion is real..
How do you “zero” the TS19-256 to an optic? Is there a video?
So you have to toggle different reticle's for different yardages ? I sighted my rattler at 50 yards and was 6" off at 100 yards.
I just got mine, same question. I'm presuming for now you sight it in for different ranges/ammo grain and then set that combination to a profile. Then change profiles and store another range/ammo. Anyone else know for sure?
@@patrickbouldinkm5l143
You don't have to zero it for different ranges but you certainly could.
Then yes, you would select a profile and use a single rifle and ammo combo, zero it to a yardage, cycle, zero to another yardage, etc etc.
Then maybe mount it on another rifle and repeat. Good way to kill an afternoon.
OP...
So you could sight it in for different yardages but you don't have to.
Depending on what you're shooting, zeroing at 50 yards might not be the best thing to do if you're shooting out to 100.
Check the trajectory of the caliber/load that you are using. Then zero according to what will be best for most of your shooting scenarios.
Then, if you want, zero for different specific yardages.
Nothing called zeroing profiles in my Rattler menu.
What about ZOOM if you using it during Zeroing?
Zoom doesn't make a difference
Are those targets going to be available for sale separately?
Each scope comes with one target. But you can also buy more on the website.
My agm didn’t come with targets. It also wont hold zero.
send an email to support@agmglobalvision.com and we will get you taken care of.
I have been using a Rattler and just got an Adder. I love your products but can you guys do something about the manuals? They are full of errors, bad English and poor instructions that do not cover all the features.
I will SWEAR that the adjustments on my Rattler TS25-384 (firmware is AT LEAST V5.5.21_211130) work as follows:
Moving the x value positive moves the RETICLE in the positive direction, and thus the point of impact moves in the NEGATIVE direction (I.e., POI moves LEFT/NEGATIVE on the axis)
Moving the y value positive moves the POI in the positive direction, and thus the reticle moves in the NEGATIVE direction (i.e., the POI moves UPWARD/POSITIVE on the axis)
Took me a while to realize this, since my reticle settings have always remained so close to "0" (I've never had to go to a x,y value higher than 4)
AM I CRAZY? : )
I've been wanting to contact AGM re: this apparent anomaly, but just haven't gotten around to it yet...
I just watched this too (got an email from AGM) and it's not like my rattler either. So I went to the AGM web sight and searched firmware updates for Rattler TS25-384. The most recent version is V5.5.53_230113 which lists changes like "The Trajectory function is deleted" and "Zeroing Profiles are added. Freeze/zoom/decimal points are added to the zero process.". Your version (and mine too!) is an earlier version and needs to be updated.
@@strangelove777 Oh, mine had the BASIC version originally, and the updates brought MAJOR improvements, even seemingly to the image quality. But I suspected I don't have the LATEST since it has been a while since I last updated... just wondering if my experience with the x vs. y movements behaving oppositely is my imagination, and/or whether any later firmware actually addresses it if it's NOT : )
From my "cheat sheet" (operating under the V5.5.21_211130 firmware; just confirmed that as my current version):
x value = RETICLE movement
y value = POI movement
@@kentuckybowl-o-sticks Yes, mine behaves the same as yours (never noticed it before, I just moved the reticle to the point of impact and didn't pay attention to actual X & Y values). I have the same version 5.5.21, and was just about to try the upgrade when I saw your message. So I went into the reticle adjustment screen, and sure enough, moving the reticle to the right (positive X axis) gives a positive X value. But moving the reticle up (positive Y axis) gave me a NEGATIVE Y value.
@@strangelove777 CRAZY!
That's why I added that fact to my cheat sheet! I noticed because I've never been comfortable using the "one shot" method... I'd just fire, look at the POI, and try to change my value in the "right" direction (primarily because the rifle was not immobilized in a sled or something), but eventually went "WAIT A MINUTE!" : )
As I said, it took a while because the necessary adjustments were so minimal I first thought any discrepancy was MY fault.
What tripod are you using in this video?
Hey the Rattler is just like an Adder. Yeah right. And you drive an E-bike like a muscle car - its practically the same. Maybe next time, just mention what buttons you are pressing to navigate the menus.
The best way to do it a cheaper way to do it is with cigarettes put a paper target pocke a hole set up a cigarette inside light up and you will get a small target very easy to see .cost amost nothing
Круто , Слава Україні , Героям Слава! Дякую!!!!!)
Let’s help Ukrainians 🇺🇦 to get those to free their country
Really? Did you forget 2014? Lol