Whenever I see videos showing how easy it always seems to be, when I see how invariably clean old cars always seem to be in these videos, I usually cringe, considering the tremendous amount of rust and how seriously seized the parts usually are for us in the Canadian Salt Belt, but your video, by showing clearly how to use the press, and the fact even you had to use an impact gun on it, showed me I was on the right path and gave me confidence to keep at it... But it did max out my big electric impact gun before it finally came loose, so much so that I was afraid the clamp might bend or break! Thank you for sharing these videos!
I replaced these hoping to fix a clunk I had when accelerating from a stop and when heavy braking. I started noticing the clunk after I had the subframe out of the car when changing the transmission input shaft bearing. A year later, and after replacing nearly everything in the front end with no success, I finally found the issue. Apparently the subframe should be tightened with weight on the tires, not when jacked up. I loosened the 4 -17mm bolts holding it, let the car off the jack stands, then tightened them back up. Clunking is finally gone! Another thing I did was make sure the sway bar was aligned correctly, equal distance from the control arm on both sides - loosen the 2 bushing brackets and use a pry bar to wiggle it left or right as needed. I even paid a mechanic to diagnose the noise, he had me replacing parts unnecessarily. Thanks for video, hopefully my comment will also help someone out there, cheers!
This is seriously so helpful! I hope you keep making videos for this generation civic. I'm buying new control arms from 1a auto soon. I wish nothing but the best for your business, greetings from East Boston!
+Sabroso Lopez Greetings from Westford! Cool that you're right here in our homestate! Thanks a lot for the kind words and positive feedback. If you have second, drop us a positive review on our Facebook page to let others know what you think :) facebook.com/1aauto Thanks again!
Just replaced the front control arms, studying this video for the ball joints tomorrow!! Thank you for all of the helpful videos, these have been life savers !
I havent heard of you guys until recently. I just bought an 02 civic 2 weeks ago and part of the suspension is broken. Overall I need ball joints, struts and sway bar links. I spent an hr trying to find a good brand, and finally settled on you guys due to the great instructional videos, good reviews, and easy customer support in the event the product needs to be returned. I was also looking for good quality parts at a reasonable price, and you fit that. Thank you!
I just removed both of mine yesterday and neither. Pressed in two new, albeit cheap ones from my local NAPA and paid the price for it - the second one I guess couldn’t even handle the stress of the C clamp pushing directly on its head while using my impact on the other side to drive it in. Got it pressed in and the damn stud just spins freely now, along with the top of the ball joint where the grease fitting goes 🙄. Was gonna try to replace my control arms bushings too but this is already more of a pain in the butt than I’ve wanted it to be, so I just ordered the control arm set with two ball joints from 1A this morning and am gonna be done with it. Thanks for this specific Civic generation’s videos, guys!
Great video! I'll be doing this on my civic very soon. I've been told that Hondas require a special ball joint tool but from your video I can see that a standard ball joint press will work. Thanks again. Your videos have helped me become more confident working on my cars!!
+KI MASTER You can find the selection of videos for this model year range of Civics here: www.1aauto.com/search/videos?year=2004&model=375&videoSearchType=ymm
Great video. I borrowed the ball joint press from the local part source (Canada). But the video showed nicely how to put it on the ball joint. Video shows nicely what it is like to work on a clean rust free car. For the rest of us... Keep at it, everything is stronger than you think. I was also not able to get the post out of the lower control arm. I ended up cutting it with a grinder, removing the hub, the placed a metal block under the nut and hammered down in the control arm.
+matthew stefels Thanks for the tips! Yes, rust is definitely a common issue as these videos are filmed in the northeast (guess we were lucky with this one). You definitely also want to invest in penetrating oil and give everything a good spray, letting it sit for a while, allowing it to get deep inside the rustiest of spots.
1A Auto I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart your videos helped me greatly. I replaced my control arm ball joint and stabilizer link with your help thank you
+Keith Gladden Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Nice work Man! When you torque the lug nuts- you should be pushing down on the torque wrench- not pulling up. This prevents you from pulling your back out. Use gravity to your advantage.
The only thing I'd add is that I usually spray some lubricating oil or put some grease on the jackscrew of the tool. This makes cranking the ball joint out and in a lot easier and it reduces the wear on the jackscrew.
At 7:42 it looks like the top of the boot was damaged as it was pushed through th spindle. I noticed because I just did the same thing and it was damaged too much to use. your next scene doesn't seem to show the same damage. Please tell me what you did to use it or was the damage just not that bad. Thanks for the video, great detail and great info.
We're doing this on my son's Honda - our old ball joint doesn't have a clip. Confusing. We spent a lot of time trying to figure out why we couldn't find the old clip.
This was helpful, but mine required an extra tool due to it being seized to the control arm. So after installing the castle nut and lining it up the hole for the pin, shouldn't the nut be tight to the arm? Mine was not. I compared the new to the old and they were the same lenght but appeared slightly different due the new being aftermarket.
I have a question, In this video you state that you're supposed to use a 22mm socket to remove the spindle from the Strut, but in a different video of the same exact car about strut replacement, you state that you're supposed to use a 21mm socket. That's kinda confusing as I'm about to do both jobs on Friday. Can you please be specific on the EXACT size socket to use please?? Thank you very much, Ronnie Charfauros
Ball joint can be removed from hub with a 4 or 5 pound sledge.. Will save time instead of setting up the ball joint press and having to torque the screw over if you dont have air tools.
Replacing it for some old Ford was a breeze, just drill out the rivets from control arm and undo the nut from the hub (plenty of room for tool btw.). Install new balljoint using bolts and nuts for rivet holes. Why can't it be as simple for all cars, engineers don't seem to think about making maintenance easy anymore.
Remove the axle nut holding the hub with a pry bar through the studs. Not in Michigan. Took putting the car back on the ground with a 4 foot pipe on the end of a big breaker bar.
11:00 my ball joint is spinning when im trying to reinstall the castle nut, is there something i can do to secure it while i install the castle nut? or is the ball joint shot because it spins freely?
This is not uncommon. Use a big c-clamp to force the ball joint in the strut or jack the car under the lower control arm, which put enough force on the ball joint to keep it fro spinning while you tighten it.
I'd suggest putting lug nuts on the studs to protect the threading and to wire brush the surfaces and wipe them clean. I wire brush all my bolts so they don't fight being taken out next time.
Great video. I'm replacing the lower control arms on my son's 04 Civic w/ 194k miles. I'm assuming the ball joints need replacement as well (haven't looked closely at them). I've already completely removed the LCAs. Can I just sledge the BJs out of the hub (removing the snap rings 1st)? Or is there not enough room to maneuver the BJs w/ the hub still attached to everything?
I'm cross-referencing this video with a service manual I found. At 9:32, the video says the torque for the strut bolts is 116 lb-ft. The service manual I have says 76 lb-ft. Can you confirm the torque spec for these bolts? 01 Civic LX sedan. Great video, thanks!
Great video except one detail that people should realize, I noticed a grease fitting on this ball joint and that the fitting should have had a ninety degree fitting cause you will not be able to grease that joint cause of the cv axle being in the way but the ninety degree would allow you to grease that joint during maintenance.
*Pro tip:* grease your new ball joint, then throw it in the freezer overnight or for a few hours. It will shrink and go in much easier with less chance of pressin in crooked. Works with u joints too.
Ardent Fan Have you purchase any products from 1a auto and would you recommended from this company.
7 лет назад
Not all components come pre greased. There may be grease inside but often this is just packing and storage grease not intended for use on roads. Its advisable to grease them if it does not specify if they have be pre greased.
i highly advise against removing the knuckle for these two reasons, 1. The ball joint can be removed without removing the knuckle/wheel hub assembly from the car. 2. Removing the knuckle is going to mess up your alignment settings. You're going to cause uneven tire wear unless you want to go pay to have your car realigned.
So how would you remove the old ball joint or fit the new one without removing the hub from the car? The ball joint press they use in the video would certainly not fit if the axle was still there.
Curious - The video shows the brake rotor still on when replacing the ball joint. Later, when you install the final product, you have to put on the brake rotor. At what point did you remove the rotor and why - unless this is part of 2 different videos?
1A Auto Parts OK he is on the driver's side unscrewing the caliper bolts towards the inside. since I'm on the passenger side, is the way to unscrew it reversed?
+Brian Bejado Thanks for watching! The ball joint in this video comes with a zerk fitting that is screwed onto the backside of the ball joint. You simply grease it up prior to installing using a grease gun. If your ball joint does not have a hole for the zerk fitting they it should be sealed and pre-greased, ready to go! 1aauto.com
hey guys. I'm currently working on an 02 civic si and I'm not seeing a video on removal of inner tie rod ends. Also, how do you unstuck a lock nut from the inner?
Thank you for watching. Unfortunately we do not have a video for your application. We will keep this in mind for future repairs. As for the lock nut, you should soak it in penetrating oil and actually turn clockwise as if you were tightening. It will continue to try to thread down the tie rod and should break free. www.1AAuto.com?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony 866-403-3393
My Honda Civic ex coupe 2003 recently started shaking with accelerating can’t go over 60 without a it bucking crazy and breaking it shakes the whole car have the abs light on and battery light also in low rpm is struggling when in idle what can it be too busy to go to mechanic any suggestions
+8000RPM Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/honda-civic-civic-hybrid-ball-joint-front-driver-or-passenger-side/i/1asbj00120?RUclips&CTA+Comment&LHGFEIq0aE
+paul jerv You could buy one online, from Craftsman, Snap-On, or most other major tool distributors. You may even be able to rent one from your local auto-parts store depending on their policy -- you know, just so long as you're still buying your parts from 1AAuto.com ;) Thanks for commenting! Hope this helps. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
In the real world the ABS sensor would never come free so be prepared to remove the hub with the sensor still attached by disconnecting the sensor cable.
at the 7 min mark where you press the ball joint in, is where I'm stuck. I'm using the exact same press and adapters and 2 expensive Moog BJ's have gotten crushed at the thread ends now by following this method. I'm not sure what I do wrong. the BJ is perfectly centered and I'm doing this by hand no air tools. do I need to use the longer BJ adapter?
+Not Jonas The basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. The part shown is listed to fit 2002-2005 Sedan models. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
It's a good directional video but VERY unreal...these are 15 year old cars, rust and corrosion will make this much harder than displayed... all the parts in this video are new and come apart easily.... In real life the sensor will Snap off... and bolts will be siezed...and don't hit the axle with a steel mallet... in real life it will se stuck to a certain degree and a steel mallet will damage threads and make it impossible to thread the axle nut with out thread repair
how u gonna start w a decent comment and then proceed to criticize it in everyway possible? maybe you should make your own video since you know so much.
DO NOT try to pull out the speed sensor! Take the two 10mm bolts out that hold the wires to the frame and strut and unplug the sensor. Unless you want to replace the sensor after you break it. Trust me, I broke mine.
The Tie Rod Ends are part of the Rack & Pinion Steering. It is on our 2004 Honda Civic. They attach to the Struts- one on the left side- and one on the right side.
The only thing I would add is to crack the hub nut while the tyre is on and the wheel is on the ground. They're usually very tight. Also when hammering the driveshaft to release it from the hub stick the hub nut back on in case you cause the end to mushroom.
Oh god.. 1 more tip. Put the lug nuts on to protect the treads from the pry bar!!! You dont want to mash the threads and get your lug nuts stuck on!!! Thats a goofy mistake.
Strut mounting bolts (Damper pinch bolts) are 75.9 ft-lbf torque spec. Your spec is way off. If you want to show people how to do this stuff you should not lead them into a new repair.
@1:30 DO NOT do this. Put the wheel back on, lower the car and set the parking brake. The way he’s doing it will damage the threads of the wheel studs. The 01-05 civic is known to have weak studs to begin with.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Whenever I see videos showing how easy it always seems to be, when I see how invariably clean old cars always seem to be in these videos, I usually cringe, considering the tremendous amount of rust and how seriously seized the parts usually are for us in the Canadian Salt Belt, but your video, by showing clearly how to use the press, and the fact even you had to use an impact gun on it, showed me I was on the right path and gave me confidence to keep at it... But it did max out my big electric impact gun before it finally came loose, so much so that I was afraid the clamp might bend or break!
Thank you for sharing these videos!
I replaced these hoping to fix a clunk I had when accelerating from a stop and when heavy braking.
I started noticing the clunk after I had the subframe out of the car when changing the transmission input shaft bearing. A year later, and after replacing nearly everything in the front end with no success, I finally found the issue. Apparently the subframe should be tightened with weight on the tires, not when jacked up. I loosened the 4 -17mm bolts holding it, let the car off the jack stands, then tightened them back up. Clunking is finally gone! Another thing I did was make sure the sway bar was aligned correctly, equal distance from the control arm on both sides - loosen the 2 bushing brackets and use a pry bar to wiggle it left or right as needed. I even paid a mechanic to diagnose the noise, he had me replacing parts unnecessarily. Thanks for video, hopefully my comment will also help someone out there, cheers!
Axel nut - 32mm
Caliper bracket - 17mm
Ball joint - 17mm
Strut bolt - 22mm
This is seriously so helpful! I hope you keep making videos for this generation civic. I'm buying new control arms from 1a auto soon. I wish nothing but the best for your business, greetings from East Boston!
+Sabroso Lopez Greetings from Westford! Cool that you're right here in our homestate! Thanks a lot for the kind words and positive feedback. If you have second, drop us a positive review on our Facebook page to let others know what you think :) facebook.com/1aauto Thanks again!
Goog
Just replaced the front control arms, studying this video for the ball joints tomorrow!! Thank you for all of the helpful videos, these have been life savers !
I havent heard of you guys until recently. I just bought an 02 civic 2 weeks ago and part of the suspension is broken. Overall I need ball joints, struts and sway bar links. I spent an hr trying to find a good brand, and finally settled on you guys due to the great instructional videos, good reviews, and easy customer support in the event the product needs to be returned. I was also looking for good quality parts at a reasonable price, and you fit that. Thank you!
I just removed both of mine yesterday and neither. Pressed in two new, albeit cheap ones from my local NAPA and paid the price for it - the second one I guess couldn’t even handle the stress of the C clamp pushing directly on its head while using my impact on the other side to drive it in. Got it pressed in and the damn stud just spins freely now, along with the top of the ball joint where the grease fitting goes 🙄. Was gonna try to replace my control arms bushings too but this is already more of a pain in the butt than I’ve wanted it to be, so I just ordered the control arm set with two ball joints from 1A this morning and am gonna be done with it. Thanks for this specific Civic generation’s videos, guys!
+Drew Duncan Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I’m thinking of doing the same thing and a new hub
Great video! I'll be doing this on my civic very soon. I've been told that Hondas require a special ball joint tool but from your video I can see that a standard ball joint press will work. Thanks again. Your videos have helped me become more confident working on my cars!!
I think those who say you need a special adapter for this car don’t know how to use the tool.
Replacing my Lower ball joints tomorrow on my civic. This video definitely helps out alot
+KI MASTER Thanks for checking us out!
@@1AAuto thx for posting this very helpful content. You got more videos on this specific Civic?
+KI MASTER You can find the selection of videos for this model year range of Civics here: www.1aauto.com/search/videos?year=2004&model=375&videoSearchType=ymm
@@1AAuto Thank you very much
Great video. I borrowed the ball joint press from the local part source (Canada). But the video showed nicely how to put it on the ball joint. Video shows nicely what it is like to work on a clean rust free car. For the rest of us... Keep at it, everything is stronger than you think.
I was also not able to get the post out of the lower control arm. I ended up cutting it with a grinder, removing the hub, the placed a metal block under the nut and hammered down in the control arm.
+matthew stefels Thanks for the tips! Yes, rust is definitely a common issue as these videos are filmed in the northeast (guess we were lucky with this one). You definitely also want to invest in penetrating oil and give everything a good spray, letting it sit for a while, allowing it to get deep inside the rustiest of spots.
I’m in the same boat.
1A Auto I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart your videos helped me greatly. I replaced my control arm ball joint and stabilizer link with your help thank you
+Keith Gladden Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
This is good for replacing the knuckle assembly
Excellent video, bro'. Very clear through every step of the job.
Nice work Man! When you torque the lug nuts- you should be pushing down on the torque wrench- not pulling up. This prevents you from pulling your back out. Use gravity to your advantage.
HA,HA,HA .... EASY BRO !
I always pull up. Much more control.
The only thing I'd add is that I usually spray some lubricating oil or put some grease on the jackscrew of the tool. This makes cranking the ball joint out and in a lot easier and it reduces the wear on the jackscrew.
Thank you, there are so many crap quality videos for this. It helped show us how to use the ball press. Thank you and take my sub
+xXEdenRossXx Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
At 7:42 it looks like the top of the boot was damaged as it was pushed through th spindle. I noticed because I just did the same thing and it was damaged too much to use. your next scene doesn't seem to show the same damage. Please tell me what you did to use it or was the damage just not that bad. Thanks for the video, great detail and great info.
that was awsome . the quietest air impact in the world.
Underrated comment
Very helpful video, I particuarly needed to proper positioning of the press cups. Thank you!
+Durwood Robison Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
At 5min mark. To remove the ball joint remove the clip. Maybe the one on there didn't have one. Toward end he puts on a new clip.
We're doing this on my son's Honda - our old ball joint doesn't have a clip. Confusing. We spent a lot of time trying to figure out why we couldn't find the old clip.
This was helpful, but mine required an extra tool due to it being seized to the control arm.
So after installing the castle nut and lining it up the hole for the pin, shouldn't the nut be tight to the arm? Mine was not. I compared the new to the old and they were the same lenght but appeared slightly different due the new being aftermarket.
I have a question, In this video you state that you're supposed to use a 22mm socket to remove the spindle from the Strut, but in a different video of the same exact car about strut replacement, you state that you're supposed to use a 21mm socket. That's kinda confusing as I'm about to do both jobs on Friday. Can you please be specific on the EXACT size socket to use please?? Thank you very much,
Ronnie Charfauros
Do you have to remove the security ring when removing the old ball joint?
TheWorldWatches Yes
How do you get any grease in that fitting, on top of your new lower ball joint.
Ball joint can be removed from hub with a 4 or 5 pound sledge.. Will save time instead of setting up the ball joint press and having to torque the screw over if you dont have air tools.
YOU'RE RIGHT ! YOU KNOW LATINOS WAY , WE DON'T PLAY MUCH ..... AND NOTHING WRONG WITH THAT ! IT WORKS .
Thats the way i got mine out as i didnt have the remover tool. And hammered the new one in.
Replacing it for some old Ford was a breeze, just drill out the rivets from control arm and undo the nut from the hub (plenty of room for tool btw.). Install new balljoint using bolts and nuts for rivet holes. Why can't it be as simple for all cars, engineers don't seem to think about making maintenance easy anymore.
Remove the axle nut holding the hub with a pry bar through the studs. Not in Michigan. Took putting the car back on the ground with a 4 foot pipe on the end of a big breaker bar.
charlie dee I always loosen the Spindle Nut on the ground using a Cheater Bar. Its the only way sometimes.
My plug in impact took care of it after the car living in Minnesota it's whole life.
charlie dee that’ll damage the threads on the wheel studs doing it that way. These guys kinda seem like rookies lol
11:00
my ball joint is spinning when im trying to reinstall the castle nut, is there something i can do to secure it while i install the castle nut? or is the ball joint shot because it spins freely?
This is not uncommon. Use a big c-clamp to force the ball joint in the strut or jack the car under the lower control arm, which put enough force on the ball joint to keep it fro spinning while you tighten it.
@@8000RPM. is this provided that the nut went on enough to leave the end of the stud exposed? would this work if stud not exposed?
Also try clamping a set of vise grips on and off the tapered stud,..the slight indent will burr and help it stop
Tools used:
19mm socket
17mm socket
Ball joint separator fork
22mm socket
10mm socket
I'd suggest putting lug nuts on the studs to protect the threading and to wire brush the surfaces and wipe them clean. I wire brush all my bolts so they don't fight being taken out next time.
fudge this it is hell taking the ball joint off the lower control arm theres to much gap at the forks
Excellent video, thank you!
Strut to knuckle bolts for 01 civic is 76 ft lbs according to Haynes manual.
Great video. I'm replacing the lower control arms on my son's 04 Civic w/ 194k miles. I'm assuming the ball joints need replacement as well (haven't looked closely at them). I've already completely removed the LCAs. Can I just sledge the BJs out of the hub (removing the snap rings 1st)? Or is there not enough room to maneuver the BJs w/ the hub still attached to everything?
I'm cross-referencing this video with a service manual I found. At 9:32, the video says the torque for the strut bolts is 116 lb-ft. The service manual I have says 76 lb-ft. Can you confirm the torque spec for these bolts? 01 Civic LX sedan. Great video, thanks!
In his video on how to replace struts he specifies that the pinch bolts for 01 and 02's are torqued at 76ibs so I think your service manual is right.
Very helpful and nicely work done,👍
Great video except one detail that people should realize, I noticed a grease fitting on this ball joint and that the fitting should have had a ninety degree fitting cause you will not be able to grease that joint cause of the cv axle being in the way but the ninety degree would allow you to grease that joint during maintenance.
+william morris Thanks for the reply! 1aauto.com
Your video is very helpful, thank you very much.
*Pro tip:* grease your new ball joint, then throw it in the freezer overnight or for a few hours. It will shrink and go in much easier with less chance of pressin in crooked. Works with u joints too.
Is there a way to take out the front lower ball joint with out taking out the knucle for 2002 honda civic ex?
+Jay Hernandez You wouldn't be able to.
you should oil up every nut and bolt for future service ability
No
This ball joint is the same for civic 96 to 00?
So nice when car parts are brand new😅, but thanks for this anyway
Would a 4pce eBay press on a 2002 civic do?
I don’t see any snap ring on my 04 civic ex, does the replacement has one?
+Jaime Genova jr Yes, the snap ring is included. Thanks for checking us out!
I don’t see one on mine either.
Do we have to put grease on to the ball joint. I don't see you put nothing on it. Thank you
Ardent Fan
Have you purchase any products from 1a auto and would you recommended from this company.
Not all components come pre greased. There may be grease inside but often this is just packing and storage grease not intended for use on roads. Its advisable to grease them if it does not specify if they have be pre greased.
The newer Ball Joints are permanently lubricated. No Zerk/Grease fitting on them.
i highly advise against removing the knuckle for these two reasons, 1. The ball joint can be removed without removing the knuckle/wheel hub assembly from the car. 2. Removing the knuckle is going to mess up your alignment settings. You're going to cause uneven tire wear unless you want to go pay to have your car realigned.
+wildman775 Thanks for the feedback!
So how would you remove the old ball joint or fit the new one without removing the hub from the car? The ball joint press they use in the video would certainly not fit if the axle was still there.
@@tsb3093 the CV shaft slides out of the way pretty easily and the control arm comes off the ball joint pretty easily too.
Curious - The video shows the brake rotor still on when replacing the ball joint. Later, when you install the final product, you have to put on the brake rotor. At what point did you remove the rotor and why - unless this is part of 2 different videos?
+Garner/White It is not necessary to remove the brake rotor for this fix, but it makes it easier when installing/removing the steering knuckle.
1A Auto Parts OK he is on the driver's side unscrewing the caliper bolts towards the inside. since I'm on the passenger side, is the way to unscrew it reversed?
how did you pack or regrease the ball joint?
+Brian Bejado Thanks for watching! The ball joint in this video comes with a zerk fitting that is screwed onto the backside of the ball joint. You simply grease it up prior to installing using a grease gun. If your ball joint does not have a hole for the zerk fitting they it should be sealed and pre-greased, ready to go! 1aauto.com
One question if i do not have a tool to remove the balljoint is there an other way to do it
You can take it to a shop and pay them to remove and press a new one in. But most auto parts stores rent ball joint tools.
Don't you need to grease the ball joint prior to insert it?
hey guys. I'm currently working on an 02 civic si and I'm not seeing a video on removal of inner tie rod ends. Also, how do you unstuck a lock nut from the inner?
Thank you for watching. Unfortunately we do not have a video for your application. We will keep this in mind for future repairs. As for the lock nut, you should soak it in penetrating oil and actually turn clockwise as if you were tightening. It will continue to try to thread down the tie rod and should break free. www.1AAuto.com?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony 866-403-3393
Excellent video.
Didn't the tie rod ends need to be taken off?
My Honda Civic ex coupe 2003 recently started shaking with accelerating can’t go over 60 without a it bucking crazy and breaking it shakes the whole car have the abs light on and battery light also in low rpm is struggling when in idle what can it be too busy to go to mechanic any suggestions
Side note my car is Manual 5speed wondering if it my axle, drive shaft ? Need New tires?
Sounds like a misfire
would any one here recomend a penetrant of ANY kind to help loosen ball joint?
LotWizzard PB Blaster works wonders.
excellent video guys, very clear and easy to follow. Cheers!
why do Japanese cars have to be so complicated lol
Dan Jones Japanese Cars are a piece of cake compared to German Cars.
Hmmmmmm, You need a 90 degree grease fitting...... There is no way to grease a straight grease fitting. Otherwise, this is a superb video!
+8000RPM Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/honda-civic-civic-hybrid-ball-joint-front-driver-or-passenger-side/i/1asbj00120?RUclips&CTA+Comment&LHGFEIq0aE
The 90° fitting will not work because there is not enough space when reinstalling the half shaft. Not a smart Honda design.
Anybody doing this at home if you put your ball joints in the freezer for a couple days before you attempt this they will go in a whole lot easier.
Wear can i get one of them ball joint removers?
+paul jerv You could buy one online, from Craftsman, Snap-On, or most other major tool distributors. You may even be able to rent one from your local auto-parts store depending on their policy -- you know, just so long as you're still buying your parts from 1AAuto.com ;) Thanks for commenting! Hope this helps. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
Harbor freight.
In the real world the ABS sensor would never come free so be prepared to remove the hub with the sensor still attached by disconnecting the sensor cable.
at the 7 min mark where you press the ball joint in, is where I'm stuck. I'm using the exact same press and adapters and 2 expensive Moog BJ's have gotten crushed at the thread ends now by following this method. I'm not sure what I do wrong. the BJ is perfectly centered and I'm doing this by hand no air tools. do I need to use the longer BJ adapter?
fabian gomez yes
Except the strut to knuckle bolts on my 2001 civic lx are 19mm not 22
Is it the same for sedan?
+Not Jonas The basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. The part shown is listed to fit 2002-2005 Sedan models. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
what about the tab u punched out of the axle nut, is it a tab on the nut itself or a piece i have to replace ? good vid tho...
It's part of the nut, torque to spec and use a hammer and chisel/punch and tap edge og nit into slot...it's to help nut from backing offf
My issue is that the joint won't free up from the lower control arm.
Pickle fork
Do you have to get an alignment after this service?
+chip johnson No, you certainly don't need alignment after ball joints, unless your previous alignment was done when ball joints were bad and loose.
Great tutorial but my 03 civic is not the same
It's a good directional video but VERY unreal...these are 15 year old cars, rust and corrosion will make this much harder than displayed... all the parts in this video are new and come apart easily.... In real life the sensor will Snap off... and bolts will be siezed...and don't hit the axle with a steel mallet... in real life it will se stuck to a certain degree and a steel mallet will damage threads and make it impossible to thread the axle nut with out thread repair
If you paid attention they mention this aswell as they have other videos showing replacement of the control arm, sensor, AND axel.
how u gonna start w a decent comment and then proceed to criticize it in everyway possible? maybe you should make your own video since you know so much.
You don't have to hit the suspension arm much less nap new you have to use the right tool they are supposed to be professionals
DO NOT try to pull out the speed sensor! Take the two 10mm bolts out that hold the wires to the frame and strut and unplug the sensor. Unless you want to replace the sensor after you break it. Trust me, I broke mine.
+my5092nv Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the tip! I think it saved me some headaches and some cash!
Honda Civic doesn't have tie rod ends?
it does. +I_need_donuts
@@1AAuto It don't look like it's got
The Tie Rod Ends are part of the Rack & Pinion Steering. It is on our 2004 Honda Civic. They attach to the Struts- one on the left side- and one on the right side.
The tie rods are at the top as opposed to the bottom on most vehicles
nice
not sure i like the bar against the threads of the lug studs
At 13:52
The only thing I would add is to crack the hub nut while the tyre is on and the wheel is on the ground. They're usually very tight. Also when hammering the driveshaft to release it from the hub stick the hub nut back on in case you cause the end to mushroom.
Oh god.. 1 more tip. Put the lug nuts on to protect the treads from the pry bar!!! You dont want to mash the threads and get your lug nuts stuck on!!! Thats a goofy mistake.
i guess the old balljoint didn't have a snap ring
5:04
1:20
Strut mounting bolts (Damper pinch bolts) are 75.9 ft-lbf torque spec. Your spec is way off.
If you want to show people how to do this stuff you should not lead them into a new repair.
Those retainer clips are never that easy to get on.
+Clint Stathis Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
@1:30
DO NOT do this. Put the wheel back on, lower the car and set the parking brake. The way he’s doing it will damage the threads of the wheel studs. The 01-05 civic is known to have weak studs to begin with.
How do u remove it if you’re putting the wheel back on?
now do it on a original 2001 honda civic 32mm axle nut
😂2002 here and it was a bxtch doing it.
Ended up getting an impact torque wrench to break the hold.
Do you need to get a wheel alignment after this procedure?
+Pleb Yes, you will need to get an alignment after changing any steering and suspension part.