Hands down, the best videos I've seen!! You can really see what you need to do and access. Even including the rear spill was helpful to know what to anticipate. I felt bad when I saw all that diesel pour. I've been covered in bio-diesel at work plenty of times, and the smell came back to me when I saw that.
You want to drain the rear filter housing, unscrew it a bit until you get close to breaking the o-ring seal, then drain some more as the rest will come out when air can start to enter the housing
Korban Steel thanks for the tip. I was going to try that first then try leaving the front shut off valve open to allow it to drain. I’ll post which way works best. Again thanks for the tip.
Dustin Faddis I just changed my filters today, left the front open while draining the rear, didn’t really help. The rear cap will still want to piss diesel from around the cap, but the majority will flow out of the drain port
you did a great job on the video you could actually see what's being done most of these people that makes these videos you can't see what they're doing it's too dark thanks for a good video
Donald May .. Thanks for the feedback. That’s what I was shooting for. It took twice the amount of time to figure out where to place the cameras and how to light it than it did to do the actual filter change. Haha
There is a vacuum that did not allow the fuel to drain completely. You need to replace the top filter first but don’t close it up. When you drain the bottom filter it should drain completely, I hope. LOL.
I’ve replaced the fuel filters again and now I’ve got a good method. At least I think so anyway. I do just like you said and replace the front first leaving the valve open. Then I use a small plastic bag and put it around the rear housing while unscrewing it. You still get about 2 cups of fuel but it doesn’t make a mess lol. Thanks for commenting. It always helps to get new ideas.
Great video! The front filter has a drain with a tube in place already. I put another hose over it do direct the fuel straight to the drain pan. I removed the front filter and left it open while doing the back, hoping the air venting would get more fuel to drain from the rear. Worked for the most part but there was still some left. I used the ziplock bag Allen suggested and it caught all the remaining fuel. Then went and finished the front. Overall no mess at all to clean up. I enjoyed saving the $200 -$300 dollars labor for a 30 minute job. Thanks everyone!
Thanks Steven. That’s great news. The only additional thing I’m going to add is breaking the rear housing loose while leaving the tube connected and open. This will allow most of the fuel in the rear to come out. I’m planning to make a follow up video to show what I’m talking about.
IN REALITY--If you haven't done this before, it is an extreme pain in the ass to unscrew the lids. They are TIGHT!!! Especially the front where a 1/2' ratchet barely fits, and doesn't have the handle length to twist the lid (and of course absolutely no room for your hands!). I found that a 9"-10" piece of tubing, slipped over the ratchet handle, works. Just slip the tube over the handle, fit the socket on the cap, then once in place, slide the tube outward to make a cheater bar type extension. Also, after "draining" the rear canister, DO NOT leave your face under it while unscrewing the lid!! And when the diesel is in your eyes, DO NOT accidentally knock over the jug with the "drained" diesel. ESPECIALLY not TOWARDS your face!! I got TWO faces full of diesel!!!
I agree with what many are saying here on this professionally recorded video with the sight and information with the socket and such. The one thing I'm concerned about the truck and you may want to get it looked at immediately... When you opened the hood and there were two cans of some horrible stuff sitting. there.... Nothing like someone on your page who's gonna have his bud light under his hood.
Open the drain valve until you hear air on the rear filter. The drain valve will actually screw all the way out. Almost 95% of the diesel drained and then used a zip lock around the cap once broken loose. Not a drop spilled.
@@timnolder5153 that makes sense. I can see how it would work since you would be breaking that seal. Thanks for watching. I really appreciate it. Hopefully I’ll have a few more Ram videos coming out pretty soon.
@@trolled_you_so1516 it helps but it doesn’t get it all. The best thing is to break the seal and get some airflow and just put a small trash bag around it as you loosen it. I’ll post another video showing in detail next time
I’m not aware of any maintenance required for the def or a replaceable filter. I know there is a dpf filter but doesn’t require replacement unless there’s an issue
I’m curious how often (miles) do you change out these filters? Your standard time frame or? Appreciate it. Also I’m curious about your thoughts on what to bring as far as extras on a trip to Alaska via Washington State & Canada. My wife and I have been wanting to take a trip up through there in our Ram 3500 Diesel Dually pulling our toy hauler and being the preparer I am I was curious about what time of year to travel to road conditions to fuel stops. I’ve been told once to bring an extra spare for the truck and Rv as well as extra fuel (diesel) as well. Thanks!
Careful with super cheap filters. Aside from that I just picked up filters from my dealers for $220… it was completely my fault because I waited until the last minute to get them. I can get them online for around $100. Once I ordered them on Amazon and they were Around $60. Unfortunately they were the wrong filters. So a tip for the fuel filters…. Do the front filter first, leave it open then drain the rear, when the rear stops draining out of the tube… keep the drain tube connected and loosen the housing. This lets the rest of the lines drain without causing the mess 😆 hope it helps
Haven’t changed mine yet, but saw a comment that said “ leave the drain tube on, loosen the fuel filter and when the “airlock” releases the rest of the fuel should drain.”
That’s right. I’ve found that it’s better to remove the front then do the rear. Loosen the rear housing with the hose connected and the remaining fuel will drain out. Thanks for watching Lorenzo. Hopefully I’ll have a few new ram videos coming out soon.
Well I changed them... not too bad but I busted the drain tabs off the drain (plastic) screw on the fuel water separator (the rear chassis mounted filter) trying to tighten it back to where is was tightened at the factory. Warning: If it feels tight about a half turn less than where it was at from the factory don’t tighten it further! Run the vehicle and check that it’s not leaking and if that’s the case call it good! Luckily mine broke closed after I changed it.... so I’m going to have to open it and let fuel drain out “freestyle”, or I’m thinking I might be able to heat up the end of a flat tip screwdriver and melt a notch into the valve screw so I can open it with a screw driver; similar to the drain valve under the hood, or if I can find the plastic piece that broke off, plastic weld it back on to the drain valve. Or buy a new fuel water separator cap... I don’t know. Dammit Ram/Mopar! Why did you make something so freakin chincy that it bust the first time you touch it?! For something that is utilized every 15k miles the least you could do is make it a little stronger than the piece of $hit that it comes with! Totally frustrating and annoying Ram!😬😬😬
@@lorenzovillegas2457 wow, sorry to hear that. What a bad experience. I’m glad to hear it broke after you closed it so that it’s not leaking all over. Hopefully you can find a cap for cheap.
I always leave the drain hose on until I loosen the cap so that doesn't happen.i use simple green for cleaner it works great an it wont discolor an it smell pretty...
Great video, I'm getting ready to do this for the first time. Was able to get both filters on Amazon for $122 with next day delivery. Dealer wanted $278 just for the parts. Question- what's the ID of the drain tube for the rear filter?? Thanks much.
According to the Owners Manuel (that Real-Men never read), that valve is only for draining excess separated water. Since H2O is heavier than diesel, that makes sense. Real-Men like learning the hard way thru trial and error. Just don’t have a lite cigarette under there.
That’s a good idea. Now I leave the tube connected on the rear filter while I start to loosen the housing once the seal breaks it let’s all the fuel drain out of the tube. No more mess 😆
Late response and unknown if somebody already gave you this tip. Use a large ziploc bag over the fuel filter housing and with it in place unscrew the filter. Let it drop into bag. Do the same with the oils filter. Bag and drop after you’ve drained all oil first.
Thanks for the advice. I’ve since found that draining the front first and leave it open then crack the back one loose and everything drains out. A bag would definitely help with extra drips. Thanks again
@@DustinFaddis you’re welcome. I would advise not cracking air to the front filter. I’ve done all that too and learned over decades of experience that it just waists the fuel in the lines. You might get a few drips at the back but just have everything ready. In addition… the filter caps are phenolic resin. It will crack that top or bottom cap if you slip or not seated properly with the socket and it’s an expensive piece to replace. Good luck
Just going to yes on the reset on mine doesn't reset it. I don't know if I kept tapping the right arrow or what but after 15 mins of ticking me off it finally reset. Maybe cuz that's a Laramie in the video. Mine is a Tradesman
Leave valve open on front filter so when you get filter out you flush it out with a little fuel it helps from dirt falling in when you take filter out.
Hi, remove the cap in the engine compartment to provide a vent path. I place a towel and pan to catch drips. Nice truck by the way. You'll love it. Be sure to add Hotshot Secret EDT and LX4 fuel additives.
Thanks for the info Benton. I’ll have to try that for sure. I love the truck so far. I’ll look into those additives. Thanks for the tip. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
@@DustinFaddis Hi, you're welcome. I have one more secret ingredient. Formula 3 extreme pressure friction modifier by Lubrication Specialist in San Diego, Ca. $160.00 / gal. Made my diesel almost sound like a gas motor. The clacklng disappeared. Engine torquing during start up and shut down dramatically reduced. What happened? Friction reduced. This will reduce wear and increase engine life. It's that simple. 1st dose. 24 oz Formula 3 during engine oil change. 12 oz thereafter. Fuel. Add 2 oz to Hotshot Secret LX4. Lubricate that problematic cp4.2 fuel injection pump. Fueling. Based on 30 gal. 2 oz Hotshot Secret EDT. 3 oz LX4. Formula 3 is the secret. It chemically bonds with the bearing surfaces. More importantly, the cam in the cp4.2 pump & pistions with rollers. Lubricates the internals completely. Ram for 2021 has gone back to the cp3. Lack of lubricity of us diesel fuel is the problem. Less than 1 percent failure in eu models. Greater than 10 percent failure in us models. The gentleman I get Formula 3 from has 1.2 million miles on a 1983 Mercedes 300D turbo diesel; no rebuilds. You want more info. Call me. 619 882 1405. Or reply. I find people wanting information but aren't willing to solve a problem. Seems they want to talk about a problem and complain. I say solve the problem and enjoy your nice truck.
Forgot to add. Hotshot Secret TSE transmission additive. Made my Aisin trans shift smoothly. Remarkable difference. I use this truck as a daily driver. Note: doesn't affect the clutch plates. Verified by a Hotshot engineer.
Jesse Clayton I think they stopped making them again. We didn’t do a good enough job bringing them back. Even though we bought HEB out all summer... lol
Which models are you referring? I’m not sure about the eco diesel trucks, but all of the hd trucks are the same. Early 2019 and earlier had them in the same location but the frame mount filter was different. The housing was a little different to be more specific. I hope that answers your question. If not explain it a little more and I’d be happy to help. Thanks for watching Mary
@@DustinFaddis I was asking bc my boyfriend went on a trip and left me his truck to drive. It's not a diesel at all. 2019 dodge ram 4x4 big horn. I wanted to return it in better condition than I got it. So I cleaned it out and got an oil change but I feel like it needs new fuel filters and I grew up with a grandfather who was a mechanic, other grandfather worked for general motors as well as being a farmer and helped my dad build hot rods growing up. So I thought I might be able to do it and he's not so mechanically inclined.
@@maryscheitler2488 that’s awesome of you. Not many people have that mentality anymore… to return something in better condition than they received it. So knowing now that you have a gas motor, that changes things. I believe that the gas engines only have a fuel filter attached to the fuel pump. It’s inside the tank so it only gets replaced when the fuel pump goes out. What they do recommend it a fuel system cleaning which they do it yourself one is a two part cleaning. The first part is very simple. You just buy something like Lucas gas treatment and pour it in the tank. This stuff will bond with any water or moisture in the tanks and basically spread it out so that it will burn out of the tank. That’s the simplest way I can describe it. Plus it has cleaning properties that will clean and lube the injectors as it burns the gas. The next part is a throttle body cleaner. Just pull off the intake tube and spray into the throttle body. Open the flap manually and scrub it with something like a toothbrush. Don’t spray or scrub any sensors directly. Then wipe clean with a rag. Put the intake tube back on and start the truck. It will be a little more difficult to start the first time then will run and start great after that. This should be done about every 30,000 miles. This doesn’t come in a kit you need to buy each part separate. Just make sure you get a GAS treatment not a diesel treatment. Hope this helps Mary. You’re awesome.
@@DustinFaddis thank you! It only has 18k miles but this is good to know for the future. I try to be awesome but fall short sometimes. To be fair, he's pretty awesome himself. And so are you, being so selflessly helpful! These days you just don't see that much. I don't like saying things like "there aren't many good guys left" because I feel that's true for men AND women. The selfish mentality of the masses these days is heartbreaking to see. In terms of finding good partners or even friends, I feel like you have to be a good partner to have a good partner or friend. So I try to be good to everyone until they give me a reason not to be. He has given me so many reasons to be good to him and I really cherish him. I'm a little old fashioned as well so I like to cater to him as well. I prefer traditional roles but don't judge those who don't. He's very hardworking so anything I can do to make his life easier, I will. He does the same for me. Sorry for the novel but I could talk about him all day. I feel extremely blessed to have such a great person love me and trust me. I've gotten compliments on the truck and I always tell people it's not mine because I'd rather brag about being loved than having material things. Thanks again for the info! It is greatly appreciated!
@@maryscheitler2488 thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. About being awesome… at least you’re trying. Sounds like you have a great thing going. Again thanks for the support. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. You can also find is on Instagram at faddislivin if you’re on Instagram.
George C the front was a 1/2 inch... the rear I used a 3/8 tube. I recently spoke with a lead mopar tech and he let me know that you should have less fuel spill out of the rear filter if you open the valve then turn the ignition on without starting the truck. Once the fuel stops.... turn the ignition off and close the valve then loosen the filter.... let me know if that works out better.
@@DustinFaddis Thanks! My 15K miles 3500 alert for Fuel filter change, your info is great! I think the last step with a Gallon Zip bag will hold all the diesel :)
@@DustinFaddis Oh, did not notice this comment! I loose the release valve, catch the fuel in a bottle, then close valve, loose the cap then open the valve again, catch almost all the fuel inside; last step is to use a zip gallon bag cove the whole filter housing and take the filter cap and filter out! Just a littler fuel out, very successful! The front is a headache, the narrow space! But I found a deleted will be easy since most stuff are removed. :)
Ryan Helms it’s just a filter that came with my portable fuel tank. It’s a fine mesh... it looks like the material that those clear inline filters are made out of. It’s just to catch any gelled fuel, (it gets cold up here in Alaska) or debris that might have gotten into the tank. It actually catches junk every time so I wouldn’t want to “recycle” without using one.
Hands down, the best videos I've seen!! You can really see what you need to do and access. Even including the rear spill was helpful to know what to anticipate. I felt bad when I saw all that diesel pour. I've been covered in bio-diesel at work plenty of times, and the smell came back to me when I saw that.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I’ll be making some more videos as maintenance intervals pop up. I had fun doing it.
Thank you for doing the video. It was nicely done. I can't wait to see the oil change one when you do it.
Thanks for the video. The dealerships around me is charging 420.00 for the 2 filters to be changed. Would you happen to have the filter part numbers
You want to drain the rear filter housing, unscrew it a bit until you get close to breaking the o-ring seal, then drain some more as the rest will come out when air can start to enter the housing
Korban Steel thanks for the tip. I was going to try that first then try leaving the front shut off valve open to allow it to drain. I’ll post which way works best. Again thanks for the tip.
Dustin Faddis I just changed my filters today, left the front open while draining the rear, didn’t really help. The rear cap will still want to piss diesel from around the cap, but the majority will flow out of the drain port
Korban Steel awesome... thanks for the update
@@DustinFaddis What he say I said the same thing up a few at least I will try to give that a shot before taking off the rear FF cover.
@@trolled_you_so1516 that’s definitely a good idea
you did a great job on the video you could actually see what's being done most of these people that makes these videos you can't see what they're doing it's too dark thanks for a good video
Donald May .. Thanks for the feedback. That’s what I was shooting for. It took twice the amount of time to figure out where to place the cameras and how to light it than it did to do the actual filter change. Haha
There is a vacuum that did not allow the fuel to drain completely. You need to replace the top filter first but don’t close it up. When you drain the bottom filter it should drain completely, I hope. LOL.
I’ve replaced the fuel filters again and now I’ve got a good method. At least I think so anyway. I do just like you said and replace the front first leaving the valve open. Then I use a small plastic bag and put it around the rear housing while unscrewing it. You still get about 2 cups of fuel but it doesn’t make a mess lol. Thanks for commenting. It always helps to get new ideas.
Great video! The front filter has a drain with a tube in place already. I put another hose over it do direct the fuel straight to the drain pan. I removed the front filter and left it open while doing the back, hoping the air venting would get more fuel to drain from the rear. Worked for the most part but there was still some left. I used the ziplock bag Allen suggested and it caught all the remaining fuel. Then went and finished the front. Overall no mess at all to clean up. I enjoyed saving the $200 -$300 dollars labor for a 30 minute job. Thanks everyone!
Thanks Steven. That’s great news. The only additional thing I’m going to add is breaking the rear housing loose while leaving the tube connected and open. This will allow most of the fuel in the rear to come out. I’m planning to make a follow up video to show what I’m talking about.
Put a 1 gallon zip lock bag over the rear filter b4 leaking and it will catch all fuel...not a single drop to clean up.
Thank you for your informative video. It was very detailed and showed me everything to expect when changing the filters on my 3500.
I’m glad you enjoyed it Bryan. Thanks for watching. I plan to have a few more 3500 hd videos coming out soon.
Drain upper fuel filter first then Drain the lower filter
What size tube did you use? Thank you.
I think the rear was a 5/16 and the front was a 1/2”
Why can't Ram put the filters easily accessible like Ford I just switch and was doing some research on this filter change for sure not as easy
I haven’t worked on Ford but that would be nice
Una hora y media en limpiarte. Jajaja. El lunes tengo que realozar un servicio completo de una de estas... 🙃
Very Well explained , and great video footage of the process. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback Nick. It really helps out.
IN REALITY--If you haven't done this before, it is an extreme pain in the ass to unscrew the lids. They are TIGHT!!! Especially the front where a 1/2' ratchet barely fits, and doesn't have the handle length to twist the lid (and of course absolutely no room for your hands!). I found that a 9"-10" piece of tubing, slipped over the ratchet handle, works. Just slip the tube over the handle, fit the socket on the cap, then once in place, slide the tube outward to make a cheater bar type extension.
Also, after "draining" the rear canister, DO NOT leave your face under it while unscrewing the lid!! And when the diesel is in your eyes, DO NOT accidentally knock over the jug with the "drained" diesel. ESPECIALLY not TOWARDS your face!! I got TWO faces full of diesel!!!
I agree with what many are saying here on this professionally recorded video with the sight and information with the socket and such.
The one thing I'm concerned about the truck and you may want to get it looked at immediately...
When you opened the hood and there were two cans of some horrible stuff sitting. there.... Nothing like someone on your page who's gonna have his bud light under his hood.
Hahaha 🤣. True, true…. I like to change it up for that watery stuff so I can hydrate sometimes lol. Thanks for watching
Must hydrate
Always haha
I changed my filters did what the video said, but my truck won’t turn over/ start?? Any reason or solution?
And thank you for the video help me extremely best one I found!! 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
Are you going to make more Ram videos? I’ve watched some of your other videos and they keep getting better
I just asked the same question
What the ... lol 😭😭
Lol... I had to censor it.
Saved me a good 300 bucks
glad to hear you saved a few bucks
Open the drain valve until you hear air on the rear filter. The drain valve will actually screw all the way out. Almost 95% of the diesel drained and then used a zip lock around the cap once broken loose. Not a drop spilled.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll try that next time for sure.
@@DustinFaddis rear filter, open valve, let drain, when it stops, close valve and unscrew cap a little, then open valve to drain the rest,
@@timnolder5153 that makes sense. I can see how it would work since you would be breaking that seal. Thanks for watching. I really appreciate it. Hopefully I’ll have a few more Ram videos coming out pretty soon.
Having watched other vids I knew the back filter does not drain all the way so it was a good laugh to see the outcome!
Thanks, I thought some of you would get a kick out of that. Haha thanks for watching.
@@DustinFaddis I wonder if you break the seal a bit and leave the drain hose in once it gets some more air if it would drain the rest of the fuel.
@@trolled_you_so1516 it helps but it doesn’t get it all. The best thing is to break the seal and get some airflow and just put a small trash bag around it as you loosen it. I’ll post another video showing in detail next time
How to the DEF filter to change to do you know worries
I’m not aware of any maintenance required for the def or a replaceable filter. I know there is a dpf filter but doesn’t require replacement unless there’s an issue
I’m curious how often (miles) do you change out these filters? Your standard time frame or?
Appreciate it.
Also I’m curious about your thoughts on what to bring as far as extras on a trip to Alaska via Washington State & Canada.
My wife and I have been wanting to take a trip up through there in our Ram 3500 Diesel Dually pulling our toy hauler and being the preparer I am I was curious about what time of year to travel to road conditions to fuel stops. I’ve been told once to bring an extra spare for the truck and Rv as well as extra fuel (diesel) as well.
Thanks!
Is it possible to change these filters and not smell diesel for awhile?
Just called, my dealership wants $390 and got the filters for 40 on Amazon. Hopefully I won't need the clean up time 😆 thanks for the insight.
Careful with super cheap filters. Aside from that I just picked up filters from my dealers for $220… it was completely my fault because I waited until the last minute to get them. I can get them online for around $100. Once I ordered them on Amazon and they were Around $60. Unfortunately they were the wrong filters. So a tip for the fuel filters…. Do the front filter first, leave it open then drain the rear, when the rear stops draining out of the tube… keep the drain tube connected and loosen the housing. This lets the rest of the lines drain without causing the mess 😆 hope it helps
Haven’t changed mine yet, but saw a comment that said “ leave the drain tube on, loosen the fuel filter and when the “airlock” releases the rest of the fuel should drain.”
That’s right. I’ve found that it’s better to remove the front then do the rear. Loosen the rear housing with the hose connected and the remaining fuel will drain out. Thanks for watching Lorenzo. Hopefully I’ll have a few new ram videos coming out soon.
Well I changed them... not too bad but I busted the drain tabs off the drain (plastic) screw on the fuel water separator (the rear chassis mounted filter) trying to tighten it back to where is was tightened at the factory. Warning: If it feels tight about a half turn less than where it was at from the factory don’t tighten it further! Run the vehicle and check that it’s not leaking and if that’s the case call it good!
Luckily mine broke closed after I changed it.... so I’m going to have to open it and let fuel drain out “freestyle”, or I’m thinking I might be able to heat up the end of a flat tip screwdriver and melt a notch into the valve screw so I can open it with a screw driver; similar to the drain valve under the hood, or if I can find the plastic piece that broke off, plastic weld it back on to the drain valve. Or buy a new fuel water separator cap... I don’t know. Dammit Ram/Mopar! Why did you make something so freakin chincy that it bust the first time you touch it?! For something that is utilized every 15k miles the least you could do is make it a little stronger than the piece of $hit that it comes with! Totally frustrating and annoying Ram!😬😬😬
@@lorenzovillegas2457 wow, sorry to hear that. What a bad experience. I’m glad to hear it broke after you closed it so that it’s not leaking all over. Hopefully you can find a cap for cheap.
@@DustinFaddis not too bad... just disappointing that the drain plug is so fragile; but thanks anyways!
I always leave the drain hose on until I loosen the cap so that doesn't happen.i use simple green for cleaner it works great an it wont discolor an it smell pretty...
I appreciate the feedback Michael. I’ve been doing it that way since then. It was a messy lesson to learn. 😆 thanks for watching
Keep em coming bro!
Kevin Crouch thanks brother
I just felt your pain on draining the rear filter. Had I read the comments BEFORE I started, I may not smell like I went swimming in diesel!
my hero this will save a tune on maintenance cost. thanks for the video very helpful
Glad to help my friend.
What size tube for rear fuel filter nipple?
Great video, I'm getting ready to do this for the first time. Was able to get both filters on Amazon for $122 with next day delivery. Dealer wanted $278 just for the parts. Question- what's the ID of the drain tube for the rear filter?? Thanks much.
I believe I just picked up some cheap 3/8 tubing for the rear
Actually, I’m thinking it might have been 5/16. I’d grab both but I’m pretty sure rear was 5/16 and front was 1/2”
And just like that ram charged me 360 bucks
I actually just finished doing mine again. It took me about 20 minutes.
Crack cover so you can get air inside to drain the rest of the fuel
That definitely works. I’ve done that the past few times. Thanks for the recommendation 😆
Sounds like it was air locked?
According to the Owners Manuel (that Real-Men never read), that valve is only for draining excess separated water. Since H2O is heavier than diesel, that makes sense. Real-Men like learning the hard way thru trial and error. Just don’t have a lite cigarette under there.
Love the video, do you have any more ram videos coming out?
I was wondering the same thing
@@drinkswithdnr2970 I think he said there’s another coming out soon.
@@kidscookingblakestake3977 awesome
I use a funel with a hose to catch all the fuel start to finish
That’s a good idea. Now I leave the tube connected on the rear filter while I start to loosen the housing once the seal breaks it let’s all the fuel drain out of the tube. No more mess 😆
Late response and unknown if somebody already gave you this tip. Use a large ziploc bag over the fuel filter housing and with it in place unscrew the filter. Let it drop into bag. Do the same with the oils filter. Bag and drop after you’ve drained all oil first.
Thanks for the advice. I’ve since found that draining the front first and leave it open then crack the back one loose and everything drains out. A bag would definitely help with extra drips. Thanks again
@@DustinFaddis you’re welcome. I would advise not cracking air to the front filter. I’ve done all that too and learned over decades of experience that it just waists the fuel in the lines. You might get a few drips at the back but just have everything ready. In addition… the filter caps are phenolic resin. It will crack that top or bottom cap if you slip or not seated properly with the socket and it’s an expensive piece to replace. Good luck
@@stewartperry7797 thanks for all of the info
Just going to yes on the reset on mine doesn't reset it. I don't know if I kept tapping the right arrow or what but after 15 mins of ticking me off it finally reset. Maybe cuz that's a Laramie in the video. Mine is a Tradesman
That’s weird that yours didn’t reset. I’m guessing that you held it down long enough? I haven’t heard of that issue.
It finally did but mine doesn't reset by just tapping yes.
@@gbrjoker well at least you finally got it to work
Outstanding video. Put a plastic coffee can on the drive shaft, held in place with duct tape. Solves the mess issue when you remove the cap.
Great idea. I’ll have to try that out soon. Thanks for watching.
A gallon ziplock bag over the housing as you’re unscrewing it catches every single drop
Great job and video! Thanks!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment
I never changed my fuel filter . My truck has 70 k miles . Running strong 💪
You have a diesel? What kind of truck are you driving?
I have read that you can do damage to the fuel system and injection system if your filters get too plugged. Ya just MIGHT want to change them!
Leave valve open on front filter so when you get filter out you flush it out with a little fuel it helps from dirt falling in when you take filter out.
Hi, remove the cap in the engine compartment to provide a vent path. I place a towel and pan to catch drips. Nice truck by the way. You'll love it. Be sure to add Hotshot Secret EDT and LX4 fuel additives.
Thanks for the info Benton. I’ll have to try that for sure. I love the truck so far. I’ll look into those additives. Thanks for the tip. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
@@DustinFaddis Hi, you're welcome. I have one more secret ingredient. Formula 3 extreme pressure friction modifier by Lubrication Specialist in San Diego, Ca. $160.00 / gal. Made my diesel almost sound like a gas motor. The clacklng disappeared. Engine torquing during start up and shut down dramatically reduced. What happened? Friction reduced. This will reduce wear and increase engine life. It's that simple.
1st dose. 24 oz Formula 3 during engine oil change. 12 oz thereafter.
Fuel. Add 2 oz to Hotshot Secret LX4. Lubricate that problematic cp4.2 fuel injection pump.
Fueling. Based on 30 gal. 2 oz Hotshot Secret EDT. 3 oz LX4.
Formula 3 is the secret. It chemically bonds with the bearing surfaces. More importantly, the cam in the cp4.2 pump & pistions with rollers. Lubricates the internals completely. Ram for 2021 has gone back to the cp3. Lack of lubricity of us diesel fuel is the problem. Less than 1 percent failure in eu models. Greater than 10 percent failure in us models.
The gentleman I get Formula 3 from has 1.2 million miles on a 1983 Mercedes 300D turbo diesel; no rebuilds.
You want more info. Call me. 619 882 1405. Or reply.
I find people wanting information but aren't willing to solve a problem. Seems they want to talk about a problem and complain. I say solve the problem and enjoy your nice truck.
@@DustinFaddis Hi, just to add. Geno's Garage for your filters. Half the cost from the dealership or elsewhere.
Forgot to add. Hotshot Secret TSE transmission additive. Made my Aisin trans shift smoothly. Remarkable difference. I use this truck as a daily driver. Note: doesn't affect the clutch plates. Verified by a Hotshot engineer.
@@bentonheath6843 awesome information Benton. I’ll start looking into this stuff. You’ve got to protect your investment
This was a great step by step video thank you so much
great vid.
Thanks for the feedback. We really appreciate it
1000 subscriber 🔥
😆 thanks 🙏 it seems like that took forever haha. We appreciate the support.
Put white grease on you threads it will help to turn easier
Excellent video!
Thank you, we appreciate you watching.
Next time, bring a Zima! 😂😂😂
Jesse Clayton I think they stopped making them again. We didn’t do a good enough job bringing them back. Even though we bought HEB out all summer... lol
right to the point
Awesome video and great narration lol
Thank you!!!
You’re welcome
Are the diesel models different as far as placement?
Which models are you referring? I’m not sure about the eco diesel trucks, but all of the hd trucks are the same. Early 2019 and earlier had them in the same location but the frame mount filter was different. The housing was a little different to be more specific. I hope that answers your question. If not explain it a little more and I’d be happy to help. Thanks for watching Mary
@@DustinFaddis I was asking bc my boyfriend went on a trip and left me his truck to drive. It's not a diesel at all. 2019 dodge ram 4x4 big horn. I wanted to return it in better condition than I got it. So I cleaned it out and got an oil change but I feel like it needs new fuel filters and I grew up with a grandfather who was a mechanic, other grandfather worked for general motors as well as being a farmer and helped my dad build hot rods growing up. So I thought I might be able to do it and he's not so mechanically inclined.
@@maryscheitler2488 that’s awesome of you. Not many people have that mentality anymore… to return something in better condition than they received it. So knowing now that you have a gas motor, that changes things. I believe that the gas engines only have a fuel filter attached to the fuel pump. It’s inside the tank so it only gets replaced when the fuel pump goes out. What they do recommend it a fuel system cleaning which they do it yourself one is a two part cleaning. The first part is very simple. You just buy something like Lucas gas treatment and pour it in the tank. This stuff will bond with any water or moisture in the tanks and basically spread it out so that it will burn out of the tank. That’s the simplest way I can describe it. Plus it has cleaning properties that will clean and lube the injectors as it burns the gas. The next part is a throttle body cleaner. Just pull off the intake tube and spray into the throttle body. Open the flap manually and scrub it with something like a toothbrush. Don’t spray or scrub any sensors directly. Then wipe clean with a rag. Put the intake tube back on and start the truck. It will be a little more difficult to start the first time then will run and start great after that. This should be done about every 30,000 miles. This doesn’t come in a kit you need to buy each part separate. Just make sure you get a GAS treatment not a diesel treatment. Hope this helps Mary. You’re awesome.
@@DustinFaddis thank you! It only has 18k miles but this is good to know for the future. I try to be awesome but fall short sometimes. To be fair, he's pretty awesome himself. And so are you, being so selflessly helpful! These days you just don't see that much. I don't like saying things like "there aren't many good guys left" because I feel that's true for men AND women. The selfish mentality of the masses these days is heartbreaking to see. In terms of finding good partners or even friends, I feel like you have to be a good partner to have a good partner or friend. So I try to be good to everyone until they give me a reason not to be. He has given me so many reasons to be good to him and I really cherish him. I'm a little old fashioned as well so I like to cater to him as well. I prefer traditional roles but don't judge those who don't. He's very hardworking so anything I can do to make his life easier, I will. He does the same for me. Sorry for the novel but I could talk about him all day. I feel extremely blessed to have such a great person love me and trust me. I've gotten compliments on the truck and I always tell people it's not mine because I'd rather brag about being loved than having material things. Thanks again for the info! It is greatly appreciated!
@@maryscheitler2488 thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. About being awesome… at least you’re trying. Sounds like you have a great thing going. Again thanks for the support. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. You can also find is on Instagram at faddislivin if you’re on Instagram.
I think the valve on rear filter is just to remove water if you get some in fuel
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thanks for watching george
So understandable video
Thanks for watching 😃
So nice unlike the guys that talk too much
@@whoerman8596 😆 thanks… sometimes I talk too much lol
What's the size of tube ? thx
George C the front was a 1/2 inch... the rear I used a 3/8 tube. I recently spoke with a lead mopar tech and he let me know that you should have less fuel spill out of the rear filter if you open the valve then turn the ignition on without starting the truck. Once the fuel stops.... turn the ignition off and close the valve then loosen the filter.... let me know if that works out better.
@@DustinFaddis Thanks! My 15K miles 3500 alert for Fuel filter change, your info is great! I think the last step with a Gallon Zip bag will hold all the diesel :)
@@DustinFaddis Oh, did not notice this comment! I loose the release valve, catch the fuel in a bottle, then close valve, loose the cap then open the valve again, catch almost all the fuel inside; last step is to use a zip gallon bag cove the whole filter housing and take the filter cap and filter out! Just a littler fuel out, very successful! The front is a headache, the narrow space! But I found a deleted will be easy since most stuff are removed. :)
Great vid, thanks! What do you do with the diesel that is drained in the container?
Thanks, I just run it through a filter and pour it back in. I drain it directly into a fuel container. I wouldn't use an oil drain pan and do that.
Again thanks for the feedback
What kind of filter do you run it through?
Ryan Helms it’s just a filter that came with my portable fuel tank. It’s a fine mesh... it looks like the material that those clear inline filters are made out of. It’s just to catch any gelled fuel, (it gets cold up here in Alaska) or debris that might have gotten into the tank. It actually catches junk every time so I wouldn’t want to “recycle” without using one.
Thanks!! Really helpful video!