That’s the exact reason I decided to do it myself as well! I figured there were more people who might want to tackle this job themselves. Thanks for watching!
Very informative, good thorough breakdown and excellent views. Dealership quoted me at $570 for this job on my Ram 3500. But they won’t see a penny of that today 😁 Thank you sir. And I’m also gonna subscribe to show you some support.
I have since started using a cut off length of garden hose to slip over the factory drain tube on the front filter housing to prevent the fuel from splashing down on the front axle. Works really well!
Vaseline or other petroleum products should never be used on rubber or neoprene objects. It can deteriorate the rubber or neoprene very rapidly. The correct lube to use is a silicone based lubricant, which comes with or without Teflon
I can’t believe how easy this is. I feel so dumb cause I’ve always done the mechanic work on my vehicles but when I bought the truck they told me they needed to the services or else the warranty was going to be voided. Those MFS charge me $690 dollars for oil, oil filter and both fuel filters. The excuse always is that the fuel filters are really hard to reach and supposedly they need to drop the frame to reach it so they charge me five hours of labor at 100 dollars per hour. I feel so dumb right now thinking that I’ve been paying that amount for three years and the whole time my son could’ve got this done smfh. Thanks so much sir.
I do these filters all the time .And on the rear one I reuse thee Orange rubber o-ring usually 2 or 3 times. As long as I put the 15w 40 oil on it it's durable
i left the front valve open a few key cycles till i had good fuel flow, closed it, cycled key a few more times, started right away like first or second revolution. this was after changing both filters.
Very well done. You explained it well. I'll be doing this very soon. Doesnt look too difficult but, as you said, it does take some work and is messy. Thx
Great job on the install, i went to the bio to see your names, not there, we also have an rv channel, people like to look up your name when they want to get to know you better. Larry
You’re welcome! It’s absolutely doable yourself, just a little time and patience can save you a lot of money...not to mention, knowing it’s done right! Thanks for watching!
@@JouppiOutdoors I want to start doing maintenance my self. Let me ask you , have you done the bearings and joins, differentials , suspension yet on the ram 2500 ? Thank you in advance
Thanks! I'm curious, in my 2006 with only one filter on the engine, I only needed to drain just a little bit of fuel. I could then very slowly pull the filter out and let the fuel drain into the canister. Then very slowly put the new one in an let it soak the remaining fuel. No need to dump out a bunch of fuel. Maybe it's different for the '18?
Thanks for the video! Cant wait to try this on mine next time it’s dude. Spent wayyy too much at a diesel shop to have this done. What do you do to prime the fuel system before starting? Just turn the key a few times, or?
I typically cycle the key 6 or 7 times, and it usually does the trick. If not just cycle the key a few more times. Never an issue getting it started using this method.
Thanks, for you instructions, the dealer making this job very expensive, also never ever ,the customer can see the job , due , the dealer dont like, some time , robbed, your time ,and your money, i dont trust in dealer
No need to unhook the batteries. It will not throw a code since you will be plugging the sensor back in before you turn the key on. Thanks for watching!
Only part of the fuel drains out with the plug. When you remove the filter be prepared for a bunch more fuel to exit as soon as seal is broken. Can't find one video that covers all the details. Also a 6 sided 28mm socket is the best fit for the front plastic filter cap and not a 1 1/8th FYI.
I changed both my filters and primed the motor about 10 times but it turns on and shuts off about 5 secs later. Any idea why it's doin this, maybe something I missed?
I literally just did the front filter working on getting the rear filter off. The front filter cap has a 1-1/8” nut. 30.5 N on the torque wrench to tighten it down don’t overtighten I’ve been working on the rear for about two hours now trying to get it off.
Basically living in this video today. Thanks for all the good info!! Changed the CCV filter and changed the oil and front fuel filter. Can’t get the rear one to release and then accidentally left the drain open (appears closed is open and appears open is closed. Righty tighty, lefty loosey) when I went to cycle it through to try again on Wednesday, my next available day. Huge mess! F. Total Homer “DOH!” moment. Going to also get a filter wrench like yours in the video, the plyer style version because I bent the Napa one I bought. This is the second time doing this on the truck so I must have overtightened the one in the rear last year.
Dealer in my area wanted $2,000 for this service that I’m doing now. CCV, oil change, fuel filters , air filters… Only thing left is to lube up the rest and wash it. Indiana, 2018 3500 with the 6.7. 🤘🏼
The strap type filter wrench works great…I over tightened mine the first time and payed for it big time when I tried to take it off on the next service! Real pain but lesson learned, no issues since.
Last mechanic over torqued my rear filter. Two men cranked on it for over 30 mins. Will need another extension to maximize range of motion with a ratchet and strap wrench unless you have a better method.
@@JouppiOutdoors *ya so after you remove the cap off with the right socket, the fuel filter from undernesth the hood has another black thing... it has like a handle. If you want me to send you pictures of it thru phone number or social media i could*
It just pulls out. It’s a snug fit but you can wiggle it while pulling and it will come out. You can’t twist it because the hole in the bottom of the filter is oval shaped.
@@JouppiOutdoors *i wanted to make sure because i have an audi and it had a similar mechanism and i pulled it out and broke it. Didn't want it to happen on this one. I tried looking it up online on how to remove it for this ram i have but i can't seem to find anyone who has the same issue.*
Mine is a 2018, but as far as I know they all are removed the same way. It definitely doesn’t just slide right out, the O-ring at the bottom is a very snug fit.
Thank you for your clear instructions. The dealer charged me $400 last year. this year, I only paid for the filters and saved $300.
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video ! Quoted 610 dollars for oil change and filters, did it myself and saved hundreds.
That’s the exact reason I decided to do it myself as well! I figured there were more people who might want to tackle this job themselves. Thanks for watching!
Very informative, good thorough breakdown and excellent views. Dealership quoted me at $570 for this job on my Ram 3500. But they won’t see a penny of that today 😁 Thank you sir. And I’m also gonna subscribe to show you some support.
Thank you! Glad the video was helpful and thank you for watching!
Really appreciate this. This video makes me want to hunt down some tubing before cracking stuff loose
I have since started using a cut off length of garden hose to slip over the factory drain tube on the front filter housing to prevent the fuel from splashing down on the front axle. Works really well!
It's 693.00 now in AZ for the dealer to swap these. Hence, I'm here. Best video on how to do it hands down. Thanks!
Thank you and thanks so much for watching!
Did an incredible job explaining. Good camera placements too. Thank you for this video, it helped me a lot!
Thank you! Glad the video was helpful!
I'm about to replace my filters and this video is exactly what I was looking for thank you
You’re welcome, thanks for watching!
Vaseline or other petroleum products should never be used on rubber or neoprene objects. It can deteriorate the rubber or neoprene very rapidly. The correct lube to use is a silicone based lubricant, which comes with or without Teflon
Thanks for the info!
I can’t believe how easy this is. I feel so dumb cause I’ve always done the mechanic work on my vehicles but when I bought the truck they told me they needed to the services or else the warranty was going to be voided. Those MFS charge me $690 dollars for oil, oil filter and both fuel filters. The excuse always is that the fuel filters are really hard to reach and supposedly they need to drop the frame to reach it so they charge me five hours of labor at 100 dollars per hour. I feel so dumb right now thinking that I’ve been paying that amount for three years and the whole time my son could’ve got this done smfh. Thanks so much sir.
It’s a bit messy but definitely not hard at all. Glad the video was helpful!
Great job !!! Extremely informative and instructive ....
Thank you!
Great explanation. About to do mine for the first time.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Very informative, great video. Straight to the point. Thank you.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I do these filters all the time .And on the rear one I reuse thee Orange rubber o-ring usually 2 or 3 times. As long as I put the 15w 40 oil on it it's durable
Good to know, thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much for your kindness showing how to change these filters.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
i left the front valve open a few key cycles till i had good fuel flow, closed it, cycled key a few more times, started right away like first or second revolution.
this was after changing both filters.
Great idea! I’m getting ready to do mine again, I’ll give this a try. Thanks for sharing!
Very well done. You explained it well. I'll be doing this very soon. Doesnt look too difficult but, as you said, it does take some work and is messy. Thx
Thank you, glad the video was helpful! It’s definitely a bit of a mess, but absolutely doable. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the clear explanation didn’t have to think just copied and pasted did it quick
You’re welcome!
Great job I do the same on my Cummins 15 oil changes too non of that stealer ship .
Thanks, only been to the dealership twice in 160k for the ABS module warranty and drag link recall. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting, you saved me time and money! Much appreciated
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great job on the install, i went to the bio to see your names, not there, we also have an rv channel, people like to look up your name when they want to get to know you better. Larry
I’ll have to add that info, thanks for the suggestion!
Awesome! Thanks for posting. Love knowing I can do these things myself.
You’re welcome! It’s absolutely doable yourself, just a little time and patience can save you a lot of money...not to mention, knowing it’s done right! Thanks for watching!
Thanks…easy,fast and cheap..thanks a lot…
You’re welcome, thanks for watching!
I had a FASS put on my 2018 Ram 2500. Also had the filter at the engine deleted. Sure does make changing the filters easy.
Hard Truth When you deleted the filter, did they remove the canister or just remove the filter from the canister?
They removed the canister and installed a delete block in its place.
Hi can you show how to reset to 100% the life of the filters in the truck
Thx for sharing it will be my first time changing them lets see how it goes
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Best video out there!!
Thanks!
Excellent brother, I did learned a lot. Thank you
You’re welcome! Glad the video was helpful!
@@JouppiOutdoors I want to start doing maintenance my self. Let me ask you , have you done the bearings and joins, differentials , suspension yet on the ram 2500 ?
Thank you in advance
Awesome work! Thank you so much!
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video it was very helpful!
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!
Thanks for making this video!
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video
Thanks! I'm curious, in my 2006 with only one filter on the engine, I only needed to drain just a little bit of fuel. I could then very slowly pull the filter out and let the fuel drain into the canister. Then very slowly put the new one in an let it soak the remaining fuel. No need to dump out a bunch of fuel. Maybe it's different for the '18?
I might give that a shot next time to avoid having to drain the entire housing. Thanks for sharing!
great video
Thank you!
What size socket you use to open the top fuel filter
Can’t believe I never mentioned that! It’s a 1 1/8” socket. I’ll add that in the description, thanks!
Oreillys sells Mopar filters cheaper than dealer as well.
Good to know! Thanks for watching!
That filter link pops up for only 2016 as the latest year
It’s the same filter through at least 2018
good video thanks
You’re welcome and thank you for watching!
Thank you
You’re welcome!
Dealership just quoted me 600$ will be doing myself just wondering if the tank needs to be empty
No, the tank doesn’t need to be empty. Thanks for watching!
Is it better to change the fuel filters when tank is empty?
The tank doesn’t have to be empty, it won’t make any difference.
Do you not need to put diesel in the filter on the motor?
No, it will self prime. I haven’t had any issues doing it this way. Thanks for watching!
What size socket is connected to the wobbly
I included it in the description of the video, it is 1 1/8”. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video! Cant wait to try this on mine next time it’s dude. Spent wayyy too much at a diesel shop to have this done.
What do you do to prime the fuel system before starting? Just turn the key a few times, or?
You’re welcome. I just cycle the key 10-15 times. Still takes a second to get going but no issues. Thanks for watching!
Is that 2nd filter from lift pump?
The spin on chassis mounted filter is the primary fuel/water separator and the engine mounted canister filter is a secondary filter.
Is there any trouble starting after losing all the fuel from the filters
I typically cycle the key 6 or 7 times, and it usually does the trick. If not just cycle the key a few more times. Never an issue getting it started using this method.
@@JouppiOutdoors thanks for the help
Thanks, for you instructions, the dealer making this job very expensive, also never ever ,the customer can see the job , due , the dealer dont like, some time , robbed, your time ,and your money, i dont trust in dealer
You’re welcome!
Do you unplug your batteries when taking off the sensor so it doesn’t throw it code
No need to unhook the batteries. It will not throw a code since you will be plugging the sensor back in before you turn the key on. Thanks for watching!
when you remove the plug does all of the fuel in your tank spill out or just whats nearby the filter?
Just the fuel in the filter drains out.
Only part of the fuel drains out with the plug. When you remove the filter be prepared for a bunch more fuel to exit as soon as seal is broken. Can't find one video that covers all the details. Also a 6 sided 28mm socket is the best fit for the front plastic filter cap and not a 1 1/8th FYI.
I changed both my filters and primed the motor about 10 times but it turns on and shuts off about 5 secs later. Any idea why it's doin this, maybe something I missed?
It takes a minute for the system to prime. As long as you’re not seeing fuel in the ground, I’d say keep cranking it to get the air out of the lines.
No leaks everything is dry underneath. Cranking it will bleed the air on its own?
@@jarvisbrown1071 yes, mine takes a few minutes to get primed also.
I’ve had great luck with Fleetguard filters also. Usually get them on Amazon
@@JouppiOutdoors thanks again. I followed the video to the T.
Why size is the socket
The socket is a 1 1/8”. Thanks for watching!
That would be a 28mm or 29mm. 1.125" = 28.575mm
What size socket do you use for the filter cap?
I literally just did the front filter working on getting the rear filter off. The front filter cap has a 1-1/8” nut. 30.5 N on the torque wrench to tighten it down don’t overtighten I’ve been working on the rear for about two hours now trying to get it off.
It’s listed in the description, but it is indeed 1 1/8”
Do you have the Mopar Part Numbers for both filters?
I do not, but there is a link to them in the description where you may find the actual part numbers.
Is there any chance anyone has measured the nipple size on the rear filter to see what size hose it takes to make a drain?
I now use a 3/8 clear hose to drain the rear filter before removing it. Thanks for Watching!
@@JouppiOutdoors Thanks. I have some of that laying around in the garage somewhere.
How do you reset the change fuel filter warning?
Never mind found it. Thanks!
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
How do you reset it?
$300? Here in Jersey the dealer charges $900 for the job!
I believe it! Definitely a huge money saver if you can do most of your own maintenance!
Your supposed to turn the key on for 5 seconds without starting ten times to properly and safely prime the system before firing it up.
Good tip! Thank you for sharing
Only bad thing is you didn’t say the socket sizes 😂
It’s a 1-1/8
I did not, I did however list it in the description. Thank you for watching!
great video but all you can see if you working on a truck.. no help to hold the camera for you.. :)
It’s tough to get good footage with diesel fuel on your hands and no cameraman lol. I think the important info got across though! Thanks for watching!
NO VASELINE !!!!!!
Silicone based lube ONLY on rubber gaskets.
Basically living in this video today. Thanks for all the good info!!
Changed the CCV filter and changed the oil and front fuel filter.
Can’t get the rear one to release and then accidentally left the drain open (appears closed is open and appears open is closed. Righty tighty, lefty loosey) when I went to cycle it through to try again on Wednesday, my next available day. Huge mess! F.
Total Homer “DOH!” moment.
Going to also get a filter wrench like yours in the video, the plyer style version because I bent the Napa one I bought.
This is the second time doing this on the truck so I must have overtightened the one in the rear last year.
Dealer in my area wanted $2,000 for this service that I’m doing now. CCV, oil change, fuel filters , air filters…
Only thing left is to lube up the rest and wash it.
Indiana, 2018 3500 with the 6.7. 🤘🏼
Whoa! That’s insane!!
The strap type filter wrench works great…I over tightened mine the first time and payed for it big time when I tried to take it off on the next service! Real pain but lesson learned, no issues since.
There is a 1/2” hosing you can buy to run from the bottom of the rear filter to avoid the mess. It’s like 13 bucks at oreilys
If you don’t want to attach and detach the hosing you can roll it up and zip tie it to that bracket next to the filter.
I have since picked up a hose to drain the rear and front filter. Much less messy now!
Last mechanic over torqued my rear filter. Two men cranked on it for over 30 mins. Will need another extension to maximize range of motion with a ratchet and strap wrench unless you have a better method.
Thanks for the vid! Very helpful
Nice video. Thanks
You’re welcome, thanks for watching!
Awesome video brother
Thank you and thanks for watching!
*mine has a black cap with a handle once i remove the cap... how do i remove it?*
Are you referring to the filter up under the hood or the frame mounted filter underneath?
@@JouppiOutdoors *ya so after you remove the cap off with the right socket, the fuel filter from undernesth the hood has another black thing... it has like a handle. If you want me to send you pictures of it thru phone number or social media i could*
It just pulls out. It’s a snug fit but you can wiggle it while pulling and it will come out. You can’t twist it because the hole in the bottom of the filter is oval shaped.
@@JouppiOutdoors *i wanted to make sure because i have an audi and it had a similar mechanism and i pulled it out and broke it. Didn't want it to happen on this one. I tried looking it up online on how to remove it for this ram i have but i can't seem to find anyone who has the same issue.*
Mine is a 2018, but as far as I know they all are removed the same way. It definitely doesn’t just slide right out, the O-ring at the bottom is a very snug fit.