Make your own light, cheap and easy downwind board!
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- Опубликовано: 3 апр 2024
- Material cast, by order of appearance:
- EPS, 16kg/m3, two 1300mmx550mmx200mm blocs, 25 $
- 2 fin boxes, 12$
- PVC foam, 75kg/m3, 10mm, 12$
- Diolen patch, 1m, 10$
- Peel ply, 1m, 2$
- 200g carbon twill, 6m, 100$
- 100g glass twill, 6m, 20$
- Epoxy, Sycomin surf clear 3kg, 50$
- 300g biaxial carbon, 1m, 8$
- microballoon, 200g, 10$
- silica, 1L, 5$
- pigment, 10$
- white primer, 1 can, 10$
- clear acrylic, 1 can, 10$
- Pad, 15$ (3 pads per 45$ sheet)
+ gloves, mixing sticks and glasses, plastic sheets...
~350$ total. 
Хобби
Wow what skills great content
Your v-cut hot wire + tape method is awesome. Also love your wetlay up transfer mechanism to the board - not seen you do that before. Absolute genius as always. One thing I do that could be of interest: I use this bit to open up the track boxes… super quick and neat.
thanks.
Depending on how deep the tracks are set and if they have flanges or not, using a router/bit might leave them proud. I like the flanged one, probably stronger, but I sand them down back to the level of the board.
great video! the NPX boardies at the end was a real surprise! -old school
🤣 they are indestructible ...
The V groove hot wire and tape is a great idea. Much thanks!
thanks, it's definitely worth getting a proper adjustable power supply, and a roll of nichrome wire, took 5 min to make the V groove one and start using it :)
@@matg8875 were did u get this supply?
Amazing skill and beautiful results!
❤
Absolutely brilliant. Impressive! Thanks for sharing. 😊
the tape trick is awesome
That is incredible. Well done Matthew! I admire your skill and patience 😍👌
Very professional looking result, kudos to you, Mat 🤙🏼
Great techniques. I learnt a lot.
Struggle though with you not wearing a respirator. That’s a lot of foam particles you are inhaling.
I came here to say the same thing!! 🤯. Great to see micro balloons used, been many years since I've used them.
Piece of art ❣️
awesome)
Respect - THAT was a fantastic video showcasing your passion and abilities!
Absolutely brilliant 👍!
Another great build! Totally love your content. So much details to learn. Thank you!
Congrat’s! A Masterpiece!!
love this, thanks for sharing
glad i am subscribed... that is so impressive!
love these builds! getting ready to build one myself. you are an inspiration.
Go for it! it's amazing to ride a board you made :)
Fantastic!
What you are doing is great. But for your own sake you should be wearing a mask. Dust not good for you
So good!
Awesome bro~
incredible craftsmanship!
The V-groove hotwire is a fantastic idea.
Thanks, main reason was that I didn’t want to bother my neighbors with the router early morning:)
👏👏👏👏👏👏 BRAVO!!!
Génial! Ajouté directement dans mes favoris, pour un jour fabriquer la mienne :)
prévoir quand même de faire un sandwich partiel de pont et un patch de strat au dessus du plug de leash
Love the way you did your board. The time frustrates me so much though. I was a little surprised at you doing laminations with time splits though, I try to to get that one-shot interlayer bonding. Certainly you have great cosmetic results and low weight though!
My own first wingsurfing board I designed really well, built maybe a bit fast but then I didn't learn how to yaw steer it, I was roll steering it and my big sunken deck was too narrow for how I preferred to place my front foot. A couple of years later and having swapped to a bought board mid way, I've realised this last week that I need to un-filll my sunken deck on my own board to bring the weight back down and recover my original design and give it another try. Part of this has been my technique evolution and centering my feet but also I've redesigned my wings to be very yaw responsive with thinner tips and switching from the Axis standard fuselage to the advance version which brings the wing back closer to the mast. Now I have wings with great performance, it's the mast to work on, I bend the Axis masts with my weight on and ground impact with our sand bar so I am just over 3 weeks into a mast moulding project including design, printing, sanding and filling cycles. reducing the lower mast thickness from the Axis 19mm alloy to a more standard carbon tapered profile should really improve glide and strength.
it's all trial and error! good luck with your mast project, I made a couple a long time ago... it's a lot of work :)
Amazing video!!! Congratulation!!
Thia video is fantastic for build board with less dust.
I have a question for you: when cut eps with the hot wire, how is the current and the tension? The same of the v cut? Thanks a lot!!
thanks! less dust and no epoxy on the floor... good criteria when working in an apartment. For the hotwire, the current is what matters to get the right temperature and depending on the length, the tension will be different. A given wire gage needs a certain current to get the temperature you want. So depending on your power supply max voltage, there's a max length you can make your hotwire.
Love it !
What's your thoughts on making one floater in an appartement ? I have a 2nd room that I can isolate and ventilate
I'm in an apartment, so it's definitely doable. There will be dust everywhere, but if you clean as you go you can reduce what goes in the rest of the apartment. Use epoxy (smells much less than polyester). Last thing is to be careful with noise... reduce use of noisy tools (router, orbital sander...) check best times with your neighbors :)
Great build and really quick too! After your filler coat are you just doing a spray clear coat (upol or similar) and not doing a clear gloss coat ?
thanks. Exactly, no gloss coat to save weight, it'll be a bit less ding resistant, but gloss coat on a board that size will be at least 600g.
Very inspiring, love the build. What density foam did you use?
thanks, the vendor sells it as 16 to 18 kg/m3, turned out it was 16kg/m3.
Good job, nice board. I have a question, with a wind surf board, do you think I can converted it as a downwind foil?
That's not impossible, but quite a challenge, and not sure the result would be worth it.
If it is a regular windsurf, adding foil box is tricky as you'd have to tie in the existing structure of the board, the width might also be an issue, if it's too wide, you can cut down the outline, but it will be close to impossible to get smooth rails after you're done shaping/glassing new one. Finally, most windsurf boards are build much stronger than a downwind foil needs to be, so probably too heavy. I really think your time will be better invested making a board from scratch, and not end up much more expensive...
Please get a health checkup. I'd like to see your work for a long time.
Thanks for this vid man love it. what kind of glue you use for fixing the two bloks of foam? can you still hotwire them after its glued? greez from switzerland
I used gorilla glue because it cures quickly and expands so it fill gaps nicely. Hotwire doesn't like it though, that's why before gluing, i mark the areas where the wire will cut to avoid them.
I also make sure there is no glue where i will sand to get the final shape. Even if you can sand the glue, it tends to create a ridge at the glue line because the EPS is softer.
@@matg8875 hey thanks for the infos... This was ecatly my proplem... So avoiding glue in the cutting areas... thx. Love your vids they are awsome thx
"easy" is a relative term. easy for you as you have excellent skills, experience and knowledge. any reason you did not use a vaccum bag? great job. i used to repair wave board dings
“Easier” is may be more accurate yes… that’s why I didn’t use vacuum, much simpler for new builders and not much weight penalty…
The V hot wire cutter is nice. Please whiche wire do you exactly use for this ? Which heating wire are you using exactly, what diameter, what electrical resistance in ohms?
thanks, it's 20AWG nichrome wire, i can't remember where i got it, but that should be pretty standard.
@@matg8875 thxs
Great build! Way less hours than i used to have for my smaller builds😅. why did you choose to not use a vacuum pump?
thanks, it's because I'm lazy :) but also, less waste , less risk to mess it up (bags for 8ft boards are huge) , and when I vacuum, the surface finish is less good and requires more filler.
Master craftsman better than I could ever imagine doing a joy to watch
I would of qcelled the shaped foam blank then vacuum bagged everything and I would have put Devine cell where you stand
Probably a little heavier but a bit stronger
Yer it’s a fine line nothing more disappointing than breaking something that took 50 hours to make and thinking 1 more layer of carbon
thanks. I went for light and simple on that one. the foil attachment is plenty strong, but yes, the skin will ding more easily... a small fix from time to time is worth it for the weight ... definitely not client ready :)
Superbe ! Comme les autres 😉
Quel sctoch utilises tu ? Il m l air vraiment top...
Merci. c'est du scotch de peintre 3M ScotchBlue, jai pas trouve mieux. le normal, pas celui plastifie.
Do you 3D model this in a software first to determine the dimensions? If so which one
Yes, I use fusion 360 , it's mainly to make sure I can get the volume I want in the dimensions i have in mind. Also allows me to see how the board look and feel. And then I just put dimension on the profiles to draw my templates.
Great job! Can you share the plan?
thanks, outline and rocker are on images, I can send those, my mail and instagram should be in my channel details.
🔝
Hello, where did you get the PAD, it s the only thing is missing to finish my board , how much resin did you used, it s soo expensive in Canada
For pad I got it from AliExpress,
Hi Mat, I see this is your second attempt on the down winder board. Is it possible to tell us the difference and your findings please. Like what worked and what didn’t. Thanks
The first one was only for light wind wingfoil, volume is too small to stand on it without the wing (~85L), so I sink the tail a lot (I'm ~73kg). The news one is much bigger with 115L, quite longer and even if narrower it's pretty stable to stand on it with a paddle.
Hello what is your recommendation for the foil box placement ? What is the distance to the center of gravity and why ?
Thx
It depends on the foil you're using, your preferred stance and the volume of the board.
If the volume is close to your weight, you want to be standing on top of the center of buoyancy, with more volume, you can stand a few inch behind to let the nose float better without sinking the tail too much.
Now that you have your back foot position, you get your mast position, center the box there and you'll have the most adjustment possible.
for reference,'m ~73kg, that board is 115l, I set the center of the box 16in behind the center. On my previous ~85l, it was 11in behind center.
Merci 🙏
No words to describe! Awesome work! Waiting for a transparant surf board for me
What’s the long router bit you use to cut the slots called?
it's from aliexpress : Flat Head EVA Engraving Cutting Tool CNC Router Bits End Mill 6x100x150x4T - 32x450mm Milling Cutter For EPS Foam Engravin. it's dangerous but efficient :)
Can you explain your track placement some please? I see you find the CG, but how do you offset tracks from that?
It depends on the foil you're using, your preferred stance and the volume of the board.
If the volume is close to your weight, you want to be standing on top of the CG = center of buoyancy, with more volume, you can stand a few inch behind to let the nose float better without sinking the tail too much.
Now that you have your back foot position, you get your mast position, center the box there and you'll have the most adjustment possible.
for reference, I'm ~73kg, that board is 115l, I set the center of the box 16in behind the center. On my previous ~85l, it was 11in behind center.
Please make a easy and cheap front wing for a hydrofoil that is between the aspect ratio of 11 or 20 aspect, the higher the better, and with a span between of 130cm or 249cm. The thinner the better. Will you?
I wish, almost started a few times, but I made a couple foils back when you couldn't buy them, they were "not great"... manufacturers are doing magic wings now, so I'll leave that to them. But there's a guy who made a pretty sweet one (see board &hydrofoil building group on Facebook) smaller, but quality seems great.
That's great! Do you have autoCad blueprints of this table?
thanks, no auto cad sorry, but I have screenshots of the dimensions used for the templates, or the fusion360 file if you want...
@@matg8875 could you send me these screenshots, please?
@@matg8875 Yes I want them, could you send me them, please?
@@matg8875 I´d like to get the fusion360 file, thanks
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice work, what is the cost off all materials ?
around 350$... details are in the video description.
So you just overlap top and bottom skin on the rail? Don't do a full wrap where top skin goes to bottom and bottom skin to the deck? Is it because board is so thick? Wouldn't full wrap be stronger? Thanks
yes, having both skins going over top and bottom rails would be stronger... but also heavier, and it wouldn't fit on my wet out table :) as the rails only have 1 double layer, I was careful not to sand into them.
Can you share how you made the v groove cutter?
it's is quite simple, just a small piece of 20 awg nichrome wire, bent to get the right groove depth with round loops at each side. Then the 2 screws sandwich the loops at the end of the wire the long wires to the power supply. finally I adjust the power supply voltage/ amps to get 6 to 7 A (the wire length will dictate the voltage).
That nichrome wire is not very rigid, so it's important to get it hot and let it melt the polystyrene ahead when you move or it will bend back.
@@matg8875 thanks for sharing
Could you please explain the math behind how you determine the volume of the board by weighing the foam. Much thanks!
it's not difficult: I buy 17kg/m3 EPS. but I check it, measure the volume of the blocs and the weight, divide the weight by the volume. in this case, they are 16kg/m3. Then , when shaping take the weight divided by 16 and you get the volume in m3, multiply by 1000 and you get the Liters. last check I did was 1.850kg / 16 = 0.1156m3 = 115.6 liters. Caution, this only work when there's only EPS (and assuming its homogeneous) , as soon as you start adding the boxes, it stops working.
Thanks! Now I understand
Can you change the the text to black as some are hard to read against a white background i.e. the foam or your white walls
Sorry for that... within a few hours, HDR version should be visible, and the text will have much more contrast. I tried the blacks and they are even harder to place...
Thanks Mat I really like your content greetings from north coast of dominican republic
What weight/density eps are you using?
It’s advertised as 15-18 kg/m3, I measured it at 16kg/m3.
where do you buy your supplies?
it's kind of a treasure hunt where I live... polystyrene and epoxy are found locally as importing them is way too expensive. For the fibers, HD foam, microballoons and silica : I get them from easy composites. And finally, for boxes, the leash and vent plugs, pad: aliexpress.
Nice job. 🔥 So, I have to ask. Is this just a labor of love for the satisfaction of making your own board, or do you enjoy it enough to sell them. And if you sold one, what price would you have to sell it for to make it worth your time? 😎🤙
The problem is more time... combined with my hourly rate, it wouldn't work to sell them :)
@@matg8875 Hahaha. Yea. I agree 100%. Everyone sees these how to videos and thinks ah that doesn't look so hard why are boards so expensive! But as someone who's made some boards and repaired a lot of boards I watch that video and think to myself....sh!t, I'd rather pay someone $2k-$3k for a board.
@@flightjunkie808 it's definitely not rocket science... just a bit time consuming, especially when you start :)
How did you design the template?
I designed the board in fusion360 (it's free for hobbyist)
when I was happy with the shape, I did 2 sections, drew the profile and added dimensions every 10 to 20 cm.
That's really cool but all that effort + all those tools makes the 1500-2000$ seem like a better deal.
the first board pays for the tools... and the following are much cheaper :)
Nice, but why not use XPS? Way less messy, and more waterproof!
thanks. not sure XPS exists in such low density, and I don't have access to big blocks here ... only sheets like I used for my wet out table. EPS is not that messy if you clean as you go, but yes, definitely not waterproof, so fix my boards as soon as they ding and I'm weighting them from time to time to make sure they don't take on water... so far so good :)
@matg8875 We use XPS all the time for our eFoil builds. Believe me. When you change over to XPS, you will never touch EPS again
Anyway. Nice job! 🤙
Without vacuum?
nope, it's simpler and there's not much of a weight penalty.
Thank you👍
I get now why those boards cost $2,000+
crack!!
Your board only needs a step, look up sea plane float design
I thought about it, but it's harder to glass, and I'm not convinced yet that this applies to wingfoil board (Seaplanes don't pump and need more speed to take off). nice try on the never wet mast... reminds me to sand the new one I got :)
PVC foam, 75kg/m3, 10mm, 12$ were ????? In italy 2000 x 1000 Pvc 75Kg/m3 3 mm for sandwich about 35 Euro
Easy composite, you don't need a 2000x1000 sheet for just one board, a ~500x500 is enough.
get.a mask on mate!
I do.... sometimes :)
You are very talented but i need to make the most minimal possible board, with the most minimal number of materials and the minimal effective dose to follow along and make the cheapest, fastest to make, and just strong enough to be stiff under my feet, from uv curing resin and stuff at lowes. You can even use cardboard left overs from commercial dupsters. The poor mans and inexperienced mans version of a front foil, or a rear foil, dockstart board, or downwind. board.
Great video! So many good techniques!
Wish I would have seen this before I built my last board! Was this 1 lb density EPS Foam?
thanks, yes almost exactly, 16kg/m3 0.99lb/ft3
@@matg8875 what rocker height did you use?
it's hard to say, tail is 120mm thick, nose is 27mm and thickest point is 169mm 1.6m from the tail (2/3 of the board). but the rocker is heavily modified by the rounded nose...