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cheap means local so I guess that depends where you live.... check on the Facebook group "Board & Hydrofoil Building", I'm sure someone will have the answer...

I didn't time that one exactly, but 20 to 25 hours I think ... and lot of waiting :)

Nice what Should I Pay to get a Workshop Form you

I don't make boards for others, but advices are free if you want to embark on the adventure :)

they are either corn mill or regular end mill, cheap ones from aliexpress , just longer (up to 100mm) and bigger diameter (10mm) to have enough reach and remove material quick.

From a company that do foam products mainly for building, they can cut any size you want, I used eps 17kg/m3, higher densities are easier to shape and get clean surface but end up a bit heavier. Xps is ever easier to shape and doesn’t absorb water, but harder to get a good bond with the resin …

power supply works great, can't remember where I bought it from, it's a 30v10A, and I never hit those limits so far. you just need to find the right current for each section of wire, and when you want to use a new length, just increase voltage until you get to the right current ... very versatile.

@@matshape Thanks!! I know it depends on the wire but do you recall how high the voltage gets for your long wire? It only looked like 2V for the small triangle hot wire.

@@powis-tv8ln 14v 6A for the long wire... well below the power supply limit (30v 10A)

thanks. I usually put the tape to get cleaner lines, purely esthetic... especially with hand cut biaxial that tends to fray more when laminating. With carbon tape, it will be easier to get clean lines ...

thanks!, it' a board i made, handle and boxes are glued in a 25mm thick PVC foam 75kg/m3. with the carbon vacuumed on top, it's bullet proof, i guess it may be too stiff, which concentrated the stress in the next weaker material: the EPS around...

not even that... rentals, no training, no instructions ...

I don't handle it great to be be fair... broom almost every day to remove most of it, vacuum from time to time and door close all the time. Very little escape though, I guess the AC keep a lower pressure in that room luckily.

yep, he was coming from downwind side, instead of risking a jibe and falling in front of him, i angled upwind as much as possible, he decided to accelerate and pass in front, failed, and crash into my board, luckily i jumped right before he hit... rental business, inexperienced people, playing in a no-jetski zone...

@@matshape Idiot; but the foil wasn't damaged?

Même sur la mer y’a des kassos !

I'm not sure if you mean the spindle or the bit. the spindle is a cheap 500W from amazon, for the bit, it's the longest I could find in 10mm diameter, from Ali express, name is "Foam Cutting High Speed Steel Extra Long Straight Shank End Mill Bits EVA Engraving Cutter" it worked great with EPS as long as you don't try to to engage the whole side at once (I tried and it didn't like it :))

@matshape great! You've answered my question. One more detail please: is it a spindle with ER11 or ER16? then which bit did you choose? I found the article on aliexpress; is it 'D6x100x150 4F' if ER11? (I'm guessing ER11 but would greatly appreciate clarification). I'm so happy (really 🙂 !) to have discovered your channel last year!

@@prigentjmbf Actually, I built a lowrider from V1 first, it had ER11, but that limits you to 6 or 7mm max, so when I made the MPCNC in this video, I picked an ER16 to be able to get to 10mm, it's stiffer and lets you eat foam faster :). that bit you found sounds like the one I used on the first machine.

@@matshape super nice !

it's a 20$ polisher from amazon. I find it works better than an orbital sander, speed adjusts with the trigger, with coarse sand paper, it eats through anything, but with fine paper, it gives lot of control. I'm on the second one after 5 years, so not durable, but very cheap :)

all are valid options, it's harder with XPS to have a good bond to the skin. PVC foam is stronger, but also much more dense so harder to shape. note that the EPS I used is not that weak as it's a higher density (30kg/m3).

@matshape I thought it was just delamination between slabs of XPS that was the problem. The outsides of the slabs are quite shiny. But a cut or sanded edge has loads of surface area for the resin to grab onto

@@paulgush I never tried, but from what I saw with just sanded, they bond is less strong than EPS... check on the Facebook group "Board & Hydrofoil Building" some of the guys did in depth testing to improve the bond.

easy composites in the UK for carbon, glass, HD foam, microballoons... but Epoxy locally as it costs too much to import.

you mean on the rails? I made sure fist layer was flat and adhered to the foam before doing the second one, to avoid creating bubbles (that's why it doesn't look very clean, I had to remove some parts that were not bonded well ) and then the other side overlaps on the first. Note that the overlap makes the rails stronger, covering the radius on both "top rail" and "bottom rail" would make them even more ding resistant but is a bit harder to glass.

the big patch was added at the same time as the main lamination, better bond. I added another one in the middle to flatten a bit the area between the tracks and add a bit of strength, not sure if the extra strength is needed. the peel ply is to get a smooth surface that requires less sanding.

it is just under 5kg. now it's my backup board, I much prefer riding my downwind style board, a bit more volume, longer and quite narrower... much better for the light wind we get here :)

exactly 2kg.

​​@@matshape Cool! So I guess a 137cm board will weigh +40% = 2.8kg ? What are the dimensions of your board?

​@@vim55k it's 90cm long, and a bit less than 40cm wide. so 137 cm would be +50% length, but as the boxes and reinforcement patches are heavier , your math is correct.

Check out my latest video, that's exactly what you need :)

@@matshape yes. I watched that video and forgot . I will go in comments there and ask about the weight

thanks, added.

​@@matshapeawesome! Thank you!

clear after the filler, but before reinforcing the parts that needed it to see better if clear was enough or more reinforcements was needed: sanded is hard to see if the shape is blended well, with clear, the shine is the same as the board. like this I can mix single batch of resin when reinforcing and add thickness to other spots if needed (after sanding off the clear of course)

hard to say, but the polystyrene shaped would be ~800g, the fiber would be ~3/4 of mine on that board considering the shorter length, so if you try to keep it very light, 3.5 / 4 kg should be doable ...

sure, Drop me a mail (see contact section on my profile) I can send the fusion360 archive.

congrats... but you could have told the rest of us about wing foil and downwind boards :)

lot of things you learn as you go... but main one i often forget and regret after is thinking i'll fix a small defect at a later step... this never works. If your rail is not fair, you'll sand through the lamination when trying to fix it. result of each step should be as good as you can make it before moving to the next.... Good luck!

@@matshape Hi Mat. Instead of the 300g bi-axial carbon fiber, do you think other weaves will do the job? Thanks!

weave type doesn't really matter for what we are doing... our designs are not optimized enough and the load we apply varies too much for weave choice to bring the board from "strong enough" to "too weak" it's more about having a sound structure inside the board to transfer the load between feet and foil. I'm convinced i could get away without the 300g reinforcement... until something else goes wrong. Recently a jetski hit my board at full speed on the water and broke the bond between the HD foam and polystyrene, so my boxes were moving, but thanks to the thick re-inforcement on the box, the board stayed waterproof and in one piece, not rideable, but fixable.

So far so good, but it was summer time (40+ Celsius everyday and crazy humidity) so not great to practice foil paddle up... I'll use it much more soon. I expect to ding it at some point, but easy to repair. I guess with slightly thicker hotcoat it would be a bit more ding resistant. Also, I confirmed it's not ideal for winging. I don't need the extra volume compare to my previous board to take of in very light wing, but the extra length interfere with the wing during some gybes.

@@matshape i was inspired by your build to make myself my first board. i will use 450g carbon for the standing areas. overall 200g carbon and some 100g fiberglass on top overall. i hope this will get light but stiff enough for the lengt of 188cm and with of 50cm. a flat carbon stringer over the middle under and topside. do you recomend something on it?? tipps thoughts? (sry for my bad english ;) )

@@gamma8283 no need for carbon stringer on thick boards like this Good overlap on the rails is enough. your plan sounds good, but don't forget to also heavily reinforce the boxes.

@@matshape my Plan is to integrate some standing airex plates between the box and the deck inserted with fiberglas and overlap it to the deckside for more strenght.

Gorilla glue, but be careful to avoid where the hotwire will go, it can't cut through dried gorilla glue.

thanks, 4.6 kg before adding the pads...

thanks, yes, i can send the templates i used. drop me a mail (see contact section)

@@matshape i send the mail!!!!thak so muchhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!! <3

I designed that one using a few commercial models outlines as inspiration. drop me a mail (see contact info) and I can send you the dimensions I used to make my templates.

now it's new, it's back to be worth something :)

You're not worth anything

yes, that's enough overall, just the tracks and standing areas needs more reinforcement. Note that this is quite light, so it will ding more easily... but if you make boards, a quick repair from time to time is not very hard :)

That’s why I do alcohol wipe before epoxy or clear coat … but I discovered that alcohol dissolves scratch repairs done with paint pens… lesson learnt :)