Great video man. Really great craftsmanship. But goddamn. Put on a real respirator for this crap. That carbon fiber dust is the real deal. It’s gonna give you coal miners lung if you keep this up. 😂 you are a dedicated and excellent craftsman. Don’t want to loose you too early
Why did your missus leave you? “Argh I don’t know she said I am too messy or something about the lounge room not being a workshop…” love it man, great vid 😃
Thank you for documenting the build in such detail. I've just finalised the designs for a wing foil board I plan to make this summer. Videos like this one really help clarify the steps I need to take, and also the order they should be completed.
absolute nice! in my opinion its one of the best building videos for a wingfoilboard. i am on my way to build my own too. and the gold idea was for me as a stonemason soo cool. 👍
Great video Mat. I saw it on seabreeze and had to check in here to give you a like. You must be very organised to do all those layers and get in in the vac bag by yourself. I've done some bagging and always had a helper unless it was quite small.
just a bit of organization: prepare everything before and check twice, then I'm not in such a rush as it's ok if the resin starts to harden, the vacuum is more to make sure there's no gap, and no so much to extract the excess epoxy.
Exzellent Video, especially the self-made CNC milling machine is awesome, and that in the living area. you are a genius. I need such a CNC for 14.0 board. continue to have fun and success with the next projects. Anyone who builds like this already has some experience 👌👍🏽
@@sup-venture3653 yes I made a shorter one before ruclips.net/video/S7KUaXidEfY/видео.html but it should be no problem to go up to 14 ft long... it will just take quite a lot of time, but definitely doable :)
You are crazy, all that stuff for a board thats in the air most of the time. Imho the shape of Wingfoilboards is so unimportant, I fly an inflatable with no shape at all and its so much fun (when it comes to pumping, proning and so on it might be a different thing)..nevertheless most impressive DIY! Congrats and big respect!
Shape starts to matter a lot for very light wind with small high aspect foil that you can’t really pump up … then you need speed, so relatively narrow flat bottom and sharp edges works better.
Fantastic! More surfboard building experience than me by far! Only one little comment, I did a 3D printed handle inserts in my board and it's still going strong over a year later on a much heavier board (Glassed and modified at weight cost). There's no shock loading on a handle and for minimal thickness, the load distribution is great. However I just used a commercial expanded PU foam, maybe yours is a lot lower density.
my polystyrene is 17kg/m3 ... pretty light, easier to machine. That's why I added inserts everywhere. Doesn't the 3d print has issue to bond to the resin?
@@matg8875 Definitely lighter than mine! I used polyurethane glue with water mist for bonding after scuffing the contact surfaces. And the glass and epoxy seal on top edge too.
Amazing absolutely inspiring I question everything you do and you answer by your actions. I really like the fact you take time to read and comment on the comments. Top shelf for sure. If you don’t 0:44 mind me asking, where is your location?
Hei Mat, perfect video, many thanks for sharing and recording.We have built one board with my collegue as well last year. I'm considering to make an own CNC cut this time and I was looking already for the Lowrider -- I've seen you had also the Lowrider (the other video) -- Beside the space in your apartment and storage - how would you compare the two CNC's you used (Lowrider vs one of the MPCNCs) - I can assume the precision with the smaller one is better than with the Lowrider? But the Loweider would cut it in one go. Tnx
Well spotted: the lowrider was for a friend with more space. it's great machine too, and the choice between both is very much dependent on what else you'd like to do with it. if you want to be able to cut full sheets of plywood, lowrider is definitely better, but to do smaller things in more materials, the MPCNC is more rigid. Even for boards, after cutting 2 with the MPCNC, I prefer that solution. It's more work to prepare the files for the machine, but doing it in a lot of small sections allows you to take breaks (if the neighbors are not happy with the noise). You also loose less time if you have a bug with the machine (mine froze once, and my spindle randomly shut off. restarting a 15 minutes operation doesn't feel as bad as a 2 or 3 hours one :) Having the machining done in several sections allow you to use different parameters: on sections with little material to remove, I can take 8mm stepover with 10mm mill and for section with much more material to remove, 3or 4mm stepover and several step-down....
Exactly, gorilla glue, it fills gaps nicely, dries quickly, and if you need to shape it down, it’s softer, so less difficult to shape down than epoxy. And it also less stiff thank epoxy, so even if the box has to move slightly, it won’t détache from the polystyrene around it .
Awesome. What is the vacuum bag that you are using - a pre made bag? And how are you sealing it? I have been making my own bags, and sealing with the gum.. but it is a pain when you have to redo the seal with gum each time the board goes back into the bag.
it's a plastic PVC tablecloth folded in half with the edges glued with soft contact cement. I seal the open side by trapping it between to think pieces of wood and rolling it up with clamp, kind of how you close most waterproof bags ... it works great and doesn't puncture easily, I made 3 boards with it so far. I saw you can also use 2 plastic electric conduits with one that fits in the other one open on the side and clamp that way, but wood's working fine :)
My dad and I did build the lowrider2 too, but way bigger. It's 1 by 2 meters. This so we can do the blank in one go. Try XPS next time. I will not make such a mess 🙂 Verry nice build!! 🤙
I did a lowrider too before... but it was too big to keep it in my spare bedroom :) I couldn't find big XPS blocs and the mess is not so bad, and you can make bean bags with it !
thanks! 1: sandwich was mainly against ding when falling on the board and harness hook, and the bottom has a few extra patch to stiffen the tracks, so I took the shortcut :) 2: too lazy to model it, on the following board, I did it, but still had to do the vertical reinforcement by hand as they were too deep.
Rustoleum dead flat clear, for UV protection, waterproof and may be help a bit with light scratches. I tried some brushed on polyurethane but it peeled off after a while... that spray doesn't move.
Great build ! What was your carbon / glass schedule? I’m about to do my first carbon wing board with vac bagging , previously just done 2layers of 6oz glass top and bottom with patches.
thanks! bottom 300g biax on the box, 200g on back 2/3 of the length + 200g carbon and the top has 100g glass below the sandwich and 200g carbon on top + some black inegra (diolene) patches on the nose and the back for dings, small 200g carbon patch on the inserts. good luck !
either corn mill or regular end mill, cheap ones , just longer (up to 100mm) and bigger diameter (10mm) to have enough reach and remove material quick.
Great craftsmanship! I want to build a CNC at my shop for making Wing Foil boards. I have a few questions, I would appreciate if you have the time to respond: - Which one do you think is better if the space is not a problem? Lowrider or MPCNC? - Do you think these DIY models can carve a 14 foot board? (Race SUP) - How long did it take to carve your board? Thank you
Thanks! I personally like the MPCNC because it breaks down the machining in small steps( ~15 to 30 minutes each), so you can take breaks and if there's an issue, it's just a small step to start over. The lowrider I did was of the previous version and there was some rigidity issues, partly due to my built, partly to the design. The new version looks much better, so i can't say for sure. This is definitely not a professional machine, a few differences: - you have to start from a square blanks, doing the setup for a regular surfboard blank might be tricky. - as the blank is square, the depth of cut is pretty big sometime and that limits the bits you can use.The biggest i have is 1cm dia but 10cm length of the flutes. so that makes for slow cutting. - i'm using a 500W spindle (mainly for noise reason) so when trying to remove too much material at once, it has issues. using a more powerful one or a router would definitely help. So yes, you could carve a 14 ft race sup... but the blank would be huge and it would take a while. Another option to explore, depending on the shapes you want to achieve might be a CNC hotwire. For example for the size of mine, to make a 5ft board, it took around 2 hrs machining. That could be made faster (more than cut in half) with a different bit and more powerful spindle. I'm now working on a 6+ft pretty thick board that had to be made in 2 half (one for the top and one bottom) it took 15 different operations and close to 4 hours. But that's not a shape i could have done by hand.
What do you do for finishing the top of the board? Looks like a hot coat followed by rough sanding followed by a top coat? What was the spray you used? Great work!!
exactly, thin hot coat to fill some gaps left by the peel ply, sanding high spots and give some grip for the next coat and the spray is Rust-OlEUm Clear 302151. it's holding well so far :)
price would definitely be an issue, but weight would not be doable, PVC is 75 kg/m3 and polystyrene is only 17kg/m3. I'm also not sure it is possible to find blocs of PVC foam of that size... and it's much harder to machine.
:) the CNC is actually quite straightforward... V1 engineering kits help a lot! I'd say around 15hr, plus lot of 3dprinting. and less than 20hrs for the board... the microballoon filler instead of hot coat gloss coat saves a lot of sanding time !
to equalize the pressure inside, with those higher volume boards, especially with EPS foam, the pressure would get quite high when it's hot and it could delaminate...
It depends, on the deck, the carbon is on the PVC and the PVC doesn't soak up resin, and i had only 1 layer of 200g carbon, so the lamination was quite light in resin already, the vacuum was just to keep the carbon tight against the board so I added a layer of thin plastic on the peel ply to keep the resin in the carbon, plus breather on top to spread the vacuum. On the bottom, the carbon is on the polystyrene, that tends to absorb more resin and with the reinforcement patches i had up to 700g of carbon on top of the boxes (2x200g twill + 300g biaxial) so i laminated quite heavy in resin to make sure it was saturated. For that step i used a drain/ breather on top of the peel ply to absorb the excess.
The c&c build is creazy, great job! On the other hand using carbon fiber and epoxy on stirofoam...im not sure this is a good combination. I dont think stirofoam is a good foam to grip with the laminate. The best of the best for that is Airex or some alternatives. Also i think you use a lot of coating wich makes the thing heavy which is not so compatible with the very light carbon fiber. But all in all, it still is a very good job. Wish i had this kind of tools at home.
The coating is mainly microbaloons, it’s super light and easy to sand, I had to to it on the bottom as the vacuum messed up the surface a bit. Lightweight polystyrene is good as long as you add reinforcement especially for the foil and there is enough overlaps on the rails, bonding is great as the resin can flow between the “balls”. But it can be a bit heavy if you glass without vacuum as the polystyrene will drink more than more traditional polyurethane.
@@matg8875 I think it's a misconception to think that polystyrene 'drinks' more resin than urethane, having extensively worked with both. What might be a factor, though, with vacuming is the fact that it holdsthe cloth down as it will float on he resin if too much resin is used and something a novis glasser might do. Professional glassers using a proper developed technique are adept at applying the minimum resin for lightweight.
So sick bro! Hey actually I was going to buy a cnc, but building one looks like even more fun, Is there a tutorial out there for building that cnc?? I’d love to have a look. Haven’t gotten into winging yet, all my buddies are doing it tho, I just kitesurf
Check out V1 engineering website, very well documented, Forum full of information and they sell kits with all the electronics and even the 3d printed parts if you want. It's a great option as you can just design any size you want depending on your usage, and turn out cheaper than most maybe be even all other options. Be careful, if you start winging... you'll almost stop touching your kites :)
Bonjour, bravo d'abord pour la video trouvée sur Pimp. Plusieurs questions du coup avant d'envisager la mise en oeuvre d'une CNC: Tu utilises fusion 360, quelle version? La personnelle permet-elle de gérer l'export vers CNC? On ne voit jamais le retournement de la board, est-ce que le logiciel le gère ou c'est pour cela que tu gardes des parties non usinées pour garder la forme du bloc de départ et avoir toujours la référence du plan de départ? Peut est être pas très clairement dit? Merci
Merci, J'ai la version personnelle gratuite de fusion, pas de problèmes pour faire l'export, les fonctions payantes ne sont pas nécessaires. Par contre j'ai du installer un post-processeur dedie a ma CNC. Honnêtement je n'y connais presque rien, mais le forum de V1 engineering est genial et a toutes les infos. En fait l'usinage de cette planche a été fait en 8 operations, 4 de chaque cote. Avant de commencer, je n'assure que le bloc est bien rectangle/plat/parallèle... et je marque tous mes points des départ (sur la ligne centrale, aux distances prévues quand j'ai créé les fichier d'usinage), donc le retournement n'importe pas. Je garde les parties non usinées aussi pour supporter les 4 côtés quand une operations est en route, vu que j' usine "sous" la machine, le bloc de polystyrène est plaqué avec des serre joints aux 4 coins. Je pense que c'est aussi possible de ne supporter que sur les 2 côtés, mais gérer les point de départ est moins facile. C'est aussi possible de faire une machine plus grande qui usine un côté d'un coup, regarde le Low rider sur le site de V1engineering. J'en ai construit une comme ca avant, mais elle prenait trop de place pour que je puisse la garder. Il y a aussi le fait que faire une face d'un coup est une très longue opérations et si il y a le moindre problème tu recommences du début, alors que avec plein de petite operations de 15-20 minutes c'est moins risqué. Bon courage!
Merci, je pensais bien que les parties non usinées servaient pour l’appui de la machine et permet de garder la référence du bloc horizontal. C’est avec fusion que tu détermines plusieurs fichiers d’usinage?
@@Fus-1111 exactement: je définis 8 "blank" qui correspondent à chaque zone d'usinage (4 offsets différents depuis un des bouts de la planche et chacun dans 2 orientations ( dessus dessous) et ça permet de changer les paramètres en fonction de la profondeur d'usinage... si il n'y a pas bcp a couper je fais des passes plus larges, si c'est plus profond je prend un peu moins. Voir même, pour le dessous du nez de la planche, je fais une première passe am mi-profondeur et une deuxième jusqu'au fond, ca prend le double de temps, mais ca evite les problemes...
thanks. the cost of the board or the CNC, I didn't track either, but all hand made boards are in the 300-400$ range. I added a breakdown of the board cost on my latest video. this one is shorter, so less carbon, and the thin PVC for the sandwich is not very expensive. For the machine... no idea :)
Definitely very interesting to watch. Looks like you enjoyed the process. I particularly liked your graphics and little finishing touches. But dude, there is no way I would sand that shit only using a surgeon's mask. If you're going to do this for a hobby buy yourself a decent fitting respirator that you can clean and replace the filters. Epoxy dust and those micro-balloons are so bad for your lungs.
@@matg8875 They're so cheap compared to the benefits of using it. Once you have one you'll use it all the time. You won't regret it. Haha, yes your neighbours will love it!
Gorilla glue is a moisture activated polyurethane glue. Moisture is the air can activate it, but adding water speeds up the curing and I thin it makes it foam a bit more too.
@@matg8875 I didn't know, thank you very much; then a light pass of water; I saw that you also use it to attach the box to the foam and the rails to the box, is there any risk of tearing it? I've seen that many use classic carbon sheet and expoy between box and eps foam
actually, I use epoxy + silica to bond box to HD foam and then gorilla glue to bond HD foam to EPS. the idea is to go by decreasing stiffness and avoid stress riser. that's why I don't think having carbon between HD foam and EPS is needed at all. Note that I don't jump with my boards, but I push hard on the, when pumping, hitting sand bottom or doing speed runs, and I never has any issues.
@@matg8875 ah perfect since I followed your videos carefully I saw different types of gluing; I have to assemble my box I think I'll do it like this gorilla for box and ribs and expoy and silicon for the tracks; thanks u soo much
not sure if I can post links, but they are cheap end mills from Ali express: the long one is D10x100x150 4F ( www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003459440322.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.4b001802srAsoS ) and the slightly shorter one is a CN, D10x55x100L (www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003231794136.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.4b001802srAsoS )
@@sebastiangeitner6955 description of the first one is : "Foam Cutting High Speed Steel Extra Long Straight Shank End Mill Bits EVA Engraving Cutter", it is indeed 4 flutes spiral (that's the only one i can find with 100mm cutting length, but they are square at the bottom. description of the second one is "XCAN PCB Corn End Mill 3.175mm-12mm Shank Milling Cutter Titanium Coated CNC Router Bits Milling Bit Carbide End Mill", i think corn teeth is the usual name. square at the bottom too. in the end it doesn't make much difference between ball end or square, you'll get ridges either way. and with square ones you can cut slots for your foil boxes cleaner in the corners.
Хобби
I would probably get a divorce if I ever tempted to do glass work in the kitchen. Great work and cool editing.
Unless it's a board for her :)
@@matg8875 Good point! ;)
Please use respirator mask with filters. Please, you don't wan't to inhale epoxy+carbon fiber!
Great job, love the graphics!
the CNC was not overkill, the gold was :D really good stuff, thanks for the inspiration
Great video man. Really great craftsmanship. But goddamn. Put on a real respirator for this crap. That carbon fiber dust is the real deal. It’s gonna give you coal miners lung if you keep this up. 😂 you are a dedicated and excellent craftsman. Don’t want to loose you too early
Why did your missus leave you? “Argh I don’t know she said I am too messy or something about the lounge room not being a workshop…” love it man, great vid 😃
Thank you for documenting the build in such detail. I've just finalised the designs for a wing foil board I plan to make this summer. Videos like this one really help clarify the steps I need to take, and also the order they should be completed.
Omg...I did not know it takes this much effort to make a wing board...!! wow !!!
The home made c&c machine was awesome. Never seen anyone make one of those board building.
Awesome!!! Wow!!!! Wonderful work!!
Greetings from North Coast D.R. Awesome build Mat ,also enjoyed the e-foil build video Happy Wing foiling!
amazing project, love your editing style. 👍
Awesome work and amazing design!
great build enjoy watching great footage of the build
absolute nice! in my opinion its one of the best building videos for a wingfoilboard. i am on my way to build my own too. and the gold idea was for me as a stonemason soo cool. 👍
Good luck! gold is fun and easy... I'd just avoid area to big, not sure how it would hold up...
Brilliant Work,great footage!!!!!
That's incredible. What a great job.
Very original approach, I loved watching this build video.
Impresionante! Enhorabuena 🎉 quedó de lujo!!❤
Absolutely beautiful.
This is total insanity, in a good way. 👏 Watched this 3x so far. Can’t wait to see what you do with the rest of the foam blank!
Thinking about how to use the leftovers for now … probably some kind of sculpture :)
Oh my good!!🤯
such great videos, well documented as well
Very nice, very cool!
Great video Mat. I saw it on seabreeze and had to check in here to give you a like. You must be very organised to do all those layers and get in in the vac bag by yourself. I've done some bagging and always had a helper unless it was quite small.
just a bit of organization: prepare everything before and check twice, then I'm not in such a rush as it's ok if the resin starts to harden, the vacuum is more to make sure there's no gap, and no so much to extract the excess epoxy.
Excellent job!
Exzellent Video, especially the self-made CNC milling machine is awesome, and that in the living area. you are a genius. I need such a CNC for 14.0 board. continue to have fun and success with the next projects. Anyone who builds like this already has some experience 👌👍🏽
thanks, have a look at the V1 engineering low rider, should work well for 14ft .. in one go! :)
Lowrider? Damit könnte ich 14,0 x 29 x 12 Einbaumbretter fräsen? echt jetzt ?
@@sup-venture3653 yes I made a shorter one before ruclips.net/video/S7KUaXidEfY/видео.html
but it should be no problem to go up to 14 ft long... it will just take quite a lot of time, but definitely doable :)
Great video! Very inspiring! What size did you make your MPCNC build area? X, y, z?
I'd like to make an efoil board
Good job man, best video
Incredible!!
Had to subscribe. Mate you get away with that in the house lol😮
You are crazy, all that stuff for a board thats in the air most of the time. Imho the shape of Wingfoilboards is so unimportant, I fly an inflatable with no shape at all and its so much fun (when it comes to pumping, proning and so on it might be a different thing)..nevertheless most impressive DIY! Congrats and big respect!
Foil Board shape matters a lit IMO. Beautiful work.
Shape starts to matter a lot for very light wind with small high aspect foil that you can’t really pump up … then you need speed, so relatively narrow flat bottom and sharp edges works better.
Top content 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Amazing!! Did you do this an Apt!
ART!!!!
Fantastic! More surfboard building experience than me by far! Only one little comment, I did a 3D printed handle inserts in my board and it's still going strong over a year later on a much heavier board (Glassed and modified at weight cost). There's no shock loading on a handle and for minimal thickness, the load distribution is great. However I just used a commercial expanded PU foam, maybe yours is a lot lower density.
my polystyrene is 17kg/m3 ... pretty light, easier to machine. That's why I added inserts everywhere. Doesn't the 3d print has issue to bond to the resin?
@@matg8875 Definitely lighter than mine! I used polyurethane glue with water mist for bonding after scuffing the contact surfaces. And the glass and epoxy seal on top edge too.
Amazing absolutely inspiring I question everything you do and you answer by your actions. I really like the fact you take time to read and comment on the comments. Top shelf for sure.
If you don’t
0:44 mind me asking, where is your location?
thanks! i'm in UAE.
wow !!!!!! 👍👍👍👍👍
Hei Mat, perfect video, many thanks for sharing and recording.We have built one board with my collegue as well last year. I'm considering to make an own CNC cut this time and I was looking already for the Lowrider -- I've seen you had also the Lowrider (the other video) -- Beside the space in your apartment and storage - how would you compare the two CNC's you used (Lowrider vs one of the MPCNCs) - I can assume the precision with the smaller one is better than with the Lowrider? But the Loweider would cut it in one go. Tnx
Well spotted: the lowrider was for a friend with more space.
it's great machine too, and the choice between both is very much dependent on what else you'd like to do with it.
if you want to be able to cut full sheets of plywood, lowrider is definitely better, but to do smaller things in more materials, the MPCNC is more rigid.
Even for boards, after cutting 2 with the MPCNC, I prefer that solution. It's more work to prepare the files for the machine, but doing it in a lot of small sections allows you to take breaks (if the neighbors are not happy with the noise). You also loose less time if you have a bug with the machine (mine froze once, and my spindle randomly shut off. restarting a 15 minutes operation doesn't feel as bad as a 2 or 3 hours one :)
Having the machining done in several sections allow you to use different parameters: on sections with little material to remove, I can take 8mm stepover with 10mm mill and for section with much more material to remove, 3or 4mm stepover and several step-down....
Hey
Congratulations ! You're inspiring !!! What do you use as "top coat magic" ?
thanks, i use acrylic based varnish, rustoleum and more recently the montana gold one, i like the spray pattern better.
Very nice!
What kind of glue was used to adhere the green foam inserts to the eps core? Gorilla perhaps?
Exactly, gorilla glue, it fills gaps nicely, dries quickly, and if you need to shape it down, it’s softer, so less difficult to shape down than epoxy. And it also less stiff thank epoxy, so even if the box has to move slightly, it won’t détache from the polystyrene around it .
Awesome. What is the vacuum bag that you are using - a pre made bag? And how are you sealing it? I have been making my own bags, and sealing with the gum.. but it is a pain when you have to redo the seal with gum each time the board goes back into the bag.
it's a plastic PVC tablecloth folded in half with the edges glued with soft contact cement. I seal the open side by trapping it between to think pieces of wood and rolling it up with clamp, kind of how you close most waterproof bags ... it works great and doesn't puncture easily, I made 3 boards with it so far. I saw you can also use 2 plastic electric conduits with one that fits in the other one open on the side and clamp that way, but wood's working fine :)
hi well done . what the black glue you use for the insert and what pvc for the decking, where do you get it ? thanks for your time
the glue is a mix of epoxy, silica and black pigment, and the PVC is 3mm EasyCell75 Closed Cell PVC Foam from easy composites.
Mat, great build. What's the black goo you use in the track slot before you put the plastic tracks in?
thanks, it's epoxy with cabosil and black pigment.
My dad and I did build the lowrider2 too, but way bigger. It's 1 by 2 meters. This so we can do the blank in one go.
Try XPS next time. I will not make such a mess 🙂
Verry nice build!! 🤙
I did a lowrider too before... but it was too big to keep it in my spare bedroom :) I couldn't find big XPS blocs and the mess is not so bad, and you can make bean bags with it !
@@matg8875 I'm using XPS for my ineer core, you can either glue 2 XPS foams with epoxy or glue them with a central stringer plywood.
Great video !
Great job!
some questions:
1 - why no sandwich on bottom?
2 - why did you not use CNC for the track box cut out?
thanks!
1: sandwich was mainly against ding when falling on the board and harness hook, and the bottom has a few extra patch to stiffen the tracks, so I took the shortcut :)
2: too lazy to model it, on the following board, I did it, but still had to do the vertical reinforcement by hand as they were too deep.
Very nice build! Super strong, but how much does it weigh? Volume?
just below 5kg with pad and straps for 77L roughly :)
Great build , tons of work. Question what is the top coat magic?
Rustoleum dead flat clear, for UV protection, waterproof and may be help a bit with light scratches. I tried some brushed on polyurethane but it peeled off after a while... that spray doesn't move.
@@matg8875 Thanks I'll try it.
Great build ! What was your carbon / glass schedule? I’m about to do my first carbon wing board with vac bagging , previously just done 2layers of 6oz glass top and bottom with patches.
thanks! bottom 300g biax on the box, 200g on back 2/3 of the length + 200g carbon and the top has 100g glass below the sandwich and 200g carbon on top + some black inegra (diolene) patches on the nose and the back for dings, small 200g carbon patch on the inserts. good luck !
Great video and awesome work. What cutting tool are you using for your CNC?
either corn mill or regular end mill, cheap ones , just longer (up to 100mm) and bigger diameter (10mm) to have enough reach and remove material quick.
@@matg8875 Thanks!
Great Job. Where did you get the plans for the CNC?
Congratulations 👏
V1 engineering , they make kits for the electronics and designed all the parts .
Great craftsmanship! I want to build a CNC at my shop for making Wing Foil boards. I have a few questions, I would appreciate if you have the time to respond:
- Which one do you think is better if the space is not a problem? Lowrider or MPCNC?
- Do you think these DIY models can carve a 14 foot board? (Race SUP)
- How long did it take to carve your board?
Thank you
Thanks!
I personally like the MPCNC because it breaks down the machining in small steps( ~15 to 30 minutes each), so you can take breaks and if there's an issue, it's just a small step to start over. The lowrider I did was of the previous version and there was some rigidity issues, partly due to my built, partly to the design. The new version looks much better, so i can't say for sure.
This is definitely not a professional machine, a few differences:
- you have to start from a square blanks, doing the setup for a regular surfboard blank might be tricky.
- as the blank is square, the depth of cut is pretty big sometime and that limits the bits you can use.The biggest i have is 1cm dia but 10cm length of the flutes. so that makes for slow cutting.
- i'm using a 500W spindle (mainly for noise reason) so when trying to remove too much material at once, it has issues. using a more powerful one or a router would definitely help.
So yes, you could carve a 14 ft race sup... but the blank would be huge and it would take a while.
Another option to explore, depending on the shapes you want to achieve might be a CNC hotwire.
For example for the size of mine, to make a 5ft board, it took around 2 hrs machining. That could be made faster (more than cut in half) with a different bit and more powerful spindle.
I'm now working on a 6+ft pretty thick board that had to be made in 2 half (one for the top and one bottom) it took 15 different operations and close to 4 hours. But that's not a shape i could have done by hand.
@@matg8875 thank you for the valuable feedback.🙏
Sick
What do you do for finishing the top of the board? Looks like a hot coat followed by rough sanding followed by a top coat? What was the spray you used?
Great work!!
exactly, thin hot coat to fill some gaps left by the peel ply, sanding high spots and give some grip for the next coat and the spray is Rust-OlEUm Clear 302151. it's holding well so far :)
Sweet, I’ll be giving it a try on my next board!
How has the clear coat held up for the past few months?
What's the density difference between the PVC foam and styrofoam? Would it be just as easy to shape out of PVC? Somewhat more expensive I guess
price would definitely be an issue, but weight would not be doable, PVC is 75 kg/m3 and polystyrene is only 17kg/m3. I'm also not sure it is possible to find blocs of PVC foam of that size... and it's much harder to machine.
Amazing DUde! ho many thousands of hours did you spend?? Mach 3?
:) the CNC is actually quite straightforward... V1 engineering kits help a lot! I'd say around 15hr, plus lot of 3dprinting. and less than 20hrs for the board... the microballoon filler instead of hot coat gloss coat saves a lot of sanding time !
Hey Mat! I love your portable CNC!! do you share the files to 3d print it??? great video!!
check V1engineering website, 3d files are free and you can pick the right version for your tube size. good luck!
great,what are the vent plugs for?
to equalize the pressure inside, with those higher volume boards, especially with EPS foam, the pressure would get quite high when it's hot and it could delaminate...
Awsome work!!!
Which kind of glue is the brown one used to attach the inserts?
epoxy + silica between the plastic insert and the green PVC foam, and gorilla glue between PVC foam and polystyrene.
@@matg8875 Thank very much
@@matg8875 Another question, which thickness is the top PVC?
Thanks
@@fedemon76 3mm, it's just thin enough to wrap around the rail with the heat gun...
Hello, I don't understand the vacuum process. You don't use a drain tissue over your peeltex ? I see a plastic tissue in between ?
Thanks
It depends, on the deck, the carbon is on the PVC and the PVC doesn't soak up resin, and i had only 1 layer of 200g carbon, so the lamination was quite light in resin already, the vacuum was just to keep the carbon tight against the board so I added a layer of thin plastic on the peel ply to keep the resin in the carbon, plus breather on top to spread the vacuum. On the bottom, the carbon is on the polystyrene, that tends to absorb more resin and with the reinforcement patches i had up to 700g of carbon on top of the boxes (2x200g twill + 300g biaxial) so i laminated quite heavy in resin to make sure it was saturated. For that step i used a drain/ breather on top of the peel ply to absorb the excess.
The c&c build is creazy, great job! On the other hand using carbon fiber and epoxy on stirofoam...im not sure this is a good combination. I dont think stirofoam is a good foam to grip with the laminate. The best of the best for that is Airex or some alternatives. Also i think you use a lot of coating wich makes the thing heavy which is not so compatible with the very light carbon fiber. But all in all, it still is a very good job. Wish i had this kind of tools at home.
The coating is mainly microbaloons, it’s super light and easy to sand, I had to to it on the bottom as the vacuum messed up the surface a bit. Lightweight polystyrene is good as long as you add reinforcement especially for the foil and there is enough overlaps on the rails, bonding is great as the resin can flow between the “balls”. But it can be a bit heavy if you glass without vacuum as the polystyrene will drink more than more traditional polyurethane.
@@matg8875 , i read you. Im rebuilding the cockpit of a 1980 raceboat (9m) with fiberglas and foam core.
@@matg8875 I think it's a misconception to think that polystyrene 'drinks' more resin than urethane, having extensively worked with both. What might be a factor, though, with vacuming is the fact that it holdsthe cloth down as it will float on he resin if too much resin is used and something a novis glasser might do. Professional glassers using a proper developed technique are adept at applying the minimum resin for lightweight.
So sick bro! Hey actually I was going to buy a cnc, but building one looks like even more fun, Is there a tutorial out there for building that cnc?? I’d love to have a look. Haven’t gotten into winging yet, all my buddies are doing it tho, I just kitesurf
Check out V1 engineering website, very well documented, Forum full of information and they sell kits with all the electronics and even the 3d printed parts if you want. It's a great option as you can just design any size you want depending on your usage, and turn out cheaper than most maybe be even all other options.
Be careful, if you start winging... you'll almost stop touching your kites :)
@@matg8875 Come ride with us at 16th street Pompano Beach, FL anytime Bro! Thanks for the info!
@@matg8875 Cool project! Thanks for making the video for us all. Did you use the v1 engineering MPCNC?
@@sjcwindsurf yes it is, fun little tool :)
Bonjour, bravo d'abord pour la video trouvée sur Pimp. Plusieurs questions du coup avant d'envisager la mise en oeuvre d'une CNC:
Tu utilises fusion 360, quelle version? La personnelle permet-elle de gérer l'export vers CNC?
On ne voit jamais le retournement de la board, est-ce que le logiciel le gère ou c'est pour cela que tu gardes des parties non usinées pour garder la forme du bloc de départ et avoir toujours la référence du plan de départ? Peut est être pas très clairement dit? Merci
Merci, J'ai la version personnelle gratuite de fusion, pas de problèmes pour faire l'export, les fonctions payantes ne sont pas nécessaires. Par contre j'ai du installer un post-processeur dedie a ma CNC. Honnêtement je n'y connais presque rien, mais le forum de V1 engineering est genial et a toutes les infos. En fait l'usinage de cette planche a été fait en 8 operations, 4 de chaque cote. Avant de commencer, je n'assure que le bloc est bien rectangle/plat/parallèle... et je marque tous mes points des départ (sur la ligne centrale, aux distances prévues quand j'ai créé les fichier d'usinage), donc le retournement n'importe pas. Je garde les parties non usinées aussi pour supporter les 4 côtés quand une operations est en route, vu que j' usine "sous" la machine, le bloc de polystyrène est plaqué avec des serre joints aux 4 coins. Je pense que c'est aussi possible de ne supporter que sur les 2 côtés, mais gérer les point de départ est moins facile.
C'est aussi possible de faire une machine plus grande qui usine un côté d'un coup, regarde le Low rider sur le site de V1engineering. J'en ai construit une comme ca avant, mais elle prenait trop de place pour que je puisse la garder. Il y a aussi le fait que faire une face d'un coup est une très longue opérations et si il y a le moindre problème tu recommences du début, alors que avec plein de petite operations de 15-20 minutes c'est moins risqué.
Bon courage!
Merci, je pensais bien que les parties non usinées servaient pour l’appui de la machine et permet de garder la référence du bloc horizontal. C’est avec fusion que tu détermines plusieurs fichiers d’usinage?
@@Fus-1111 exactement: je définis 8 "blank" qui correspondent à chaque zone d'usinage (4 offsets différents depuis un des bouts de la planche et chacun dans 2 orientations ( dessus dessous) et ça permet de changer les paramètres en fonction de la profondeur d'usinage... si il n'y a pas bcp a couper je fais des passes plus larges, si c'est plus profond je prend un peu moins. Voir même, pour le dessous du nez de la planche, je fais une première passe am mi-profondeur et une deuxième jusqu'au fond, ca prend le double de temps, mais ca evite les problemes...
@@matg8875 Merci, je vais installer Fusion 360 et voir comment dessiner avec....
Nice. How much does it weigh?
4.6kg without pads and straps, and it feels bombproof :)
Amazing job, nothing seems improvised. Would it possible to know the costs of this build ?
thanks. the cost of the board or the CNC, I didn't track either, but all hand made boards are in the 300-400$ range. I added a breakdown of the board cost on my latest video. this one is shorter, so less carbon, and the thin PVC for the sandwich is not very expensive. For the machine... no idea :)
@@matg8875 very much appreciated .. I will check the latest video right now
The green stuff... Is it gerflex?
it is 3mm EasyCell75 Closed Cell PVC Foam.
Definitely very interesting to watch. Looks like you enjoyed the process. I particularly liked your graphics and little finishing touches. But dude, there is no way I would sand that shit only using a surgeon's mask. If you're going to do this for a hobby buy yourself a decent fitting respirator that you can clean and replace the filters. Epoxy dust and those micro-balloons are so bad for your lungs.
I'll definitely add a proper mask to my shopping list... side advantage, it'll scare my neighbors if they come complain for the noise.. :)
@@matg8875 They're so cheap compared to the benefits of using it. Once you have one you'll use it all the time. You won't regret it.
Haha, yes your neighbours will love it!
a question why did you wet the surface before applying gorilla glue?
Gorilla glue is a moisture activated polyurethane glue. Moisture is the air can activate it, but adding water speeds up the curing and I thin it makes it foam a bit more too.
@@matg8875 I didn't know, thank you very much; then a light pass of water; I saw that you also use it to attach the box to the foam and the rails to the box, is there any risk of tearing it? I've seen that many use classic carbon sheet and expoy between box and eps foam
actually, I use epoxy + silica to bond box to HD foam and then gorilla glue to bond HD foam to EPS. the idea is to go by decreasing stiffness and avoid stress riser. that's why I don't think having carbon between HD foam and EPS is needed at all. Note that I don't jump with my boards, but I push hard on the, when pumping, hitting sand bottom or doing speed runs, and I never has any issues.
@@matg8875 ah perfect since I followed your videos carefully I saw different types of gluing; I have to assemble my box I think I'll do it like this gorilla for box and ribs and expoy and silicon for the tracks; thanks u soo much
How much does it weigh?
4.6 kg before adding the pads...
The same I have started to build but not to finished :)
Can u pls poste the used endmill?
not sure if I can post links, but they are cheap end mills from Ali express:
the long one is D10x100x150 4F ( www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003459440322.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.4b001802srAsoS )
and the slightly shorter one is a CN, D10x55x100L (www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003231794136.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.4b001802srAsoS )
@@matg8875 tks alot. First Link doesnt Work in my country. But it is a roundnose 4 flute Spiral Cutter? Or Like the Second, also Like a diamant grate?
@@sebastiangeitner6955
description of the first one is : "Foam Cutting High Speed Steel Extra Long Straight Shank End Mill Bits EVA Engraving Cutter", it is indeed 4 flutes spiral (that's the only one i can find with 100mm cutting length, but they are square at the bottom.
description of the second one is "XCAN PCB Corn End Mill 3.175mm-12mm Shank Milling Cutter Titanium Coated CNC Router Bits Milling Bit Carbide End Mill", i think corn teeth is the usual name. square at the bottom too.
in the end it doesn't make much difference between ball end or square, you'll get ridges either way. and with square ones you can cut slots for your foil boxes cleaner in the corners.
Perfekt tks
Why not XPS?
my supplier of foam doesn't do XPS block, only EPS, the XPS they have comes in plates , and is much denser.
Great work. But there is really no benefit in breathing all that dust and volatiles.
Seriously calling this a DIY!? Ha.
GENIO!!!!!!!