Umarex T4e Hdp 50 co2 and valve block restrictor delete. 17-18 joule. Follower fix for steel balls.
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Sorry guys forgot to mention the addition of the 4/40 screw allowed me to shoot the steel bearings without issue. I attribute this to the follower stops prematurely and prevents them from binding in breech.
12.7mm 8.35g steel ball bearings
4/40 x 1/2 socket head capscrew
Not keen on the HDP. Much prefer the HDR50 & 68. You have more projectile options and less problems with the HDR's. Just waiting for the 18 round HDB68 to come back in stock. That thing is a beast!
yeah! me too. Henry of PSI Whatever is selling some for $800😅i'll wait. I heard by Dec. they be back.
@@homeagent 800??? Wtf? That's rediculous. I think he used to be in the FB groups, but many people aren't keen on him so he's probably been banned
Hdb may become part of my collection if my barrel swap is successful. I prefer to screw up on the less expensive markers. 😁
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with us! Excellent video
You are welcome.
@@lesslethalfordummies I have a question. It's possible to find some instructions how to remove valve block restrictor in HEDP50 gen ver 11j. ?
@AdamBienOfficial all the generations are the same for the valve block removal.
I would check out Alternate Arms Self Defence RUclips channel. He has some really detailed videos.
Nice test 😃
Thank you.
hmm.. ive got the hdp50 11j, looking in the pressure chamber and i see no "horse shoe" shaped cylinder/valve restrictor, all i see is diameter is shrinking abit way down in there like 1mm but cant tell if its something i can take out to open it more, should i disassemble it completely or is this one that ship without restrictor from factory? In that case, all i need to do is remove the thing with a hole in it between the grip and pressure chamber?
If your hdp50 came with a silver button co2 restrictor in the grip it is likely an 11j version which i think has no valve restrictor. In Northern American we only get the 7.5j version so it ships differently.
@@lesslethalfordummies Youre correct! Thanks!!!
appreciate the info!
🤘🏼
I've been looking for the right word... you found it; 'convenient' ;-] i did the shim thing on my 1st one (that i broke) it seemed to help push those balls up to get stuck and ruin the detents. i didnt know i had under-filled co2, i dont think that helped. But anyway i got another, they are the lowest priced of the UXs here in the states on ebay.
Oddly enough the hdr50 is lowest priced here in Canada but i am determined to boost this little guy.
Thank you
Nice video! How many strong/total shots do you get, my friend?
How it is currently setup using these heavy balls 2 shots. For the hdp50 to be effective on co2 the projectiles need to be about 4g i believe.
I have homedefense-24 newest kit i will be testing shortly. Stat tuned!
So I tested umarex rubber it was 670 avg 1.15grams uxcell nylon 1.20 grams is 650 avg and umarex 1/2 glass slingshot ammo is 2.5 grams at 430 avg on all 6-7 shots at least in mine, I took your advice and didn't bother with steel, I think the sweet spot with ammo in the umarex products with just removing the restrictions is about double so 3-4 grams max in .50 cal and 5-6 grams in .68 cal. Obviously if you run longer barrel and hpa and short valve pin you'd get more. But for free mods you can't beat them.
I am of the opinion 4g is perfect for 50cal. I am trying to make the heavy steel balls more useful on anything but hpa. If i fail I will be picking up some lighter ammo.
@@lesslethalfordummies if you find a ammo that fits in the hdp that 3-4 grams let me know cuz I'm running the 1/2 inch glass in my edc it's decent but something harder or shatter proof would be nicer, however they are like dead accurate like 1-2 inch groups at 7 yards
10-4!
@@lesslethalfordummies hey are you experiencing like a good drop off in velocity after first two shots with the valve block out
@@markharlacher6183 this is typical behaviour after removing the block unfortunately. By dseign with the blocks removed Umarex markers charge the entire air chamber and co2 chamber which is alot of space for just a 12g co2. Ideally you need more co2 or hpa. I found reinstalling the co2 disk while lowered the initial fps it allowed greater consistency.
88 gram C02 with an angled ASA would work well with these firing a 3.9 gram ball
I have some bits ordered to experiment with.
yes florians plug will fit this perfectly
i have a hdp 50 with the f stamp on it , it came with no restrictor in it , i removed the valve block so its fully open , it smacks hard , would you happen to know how many joules it would be at now fully open? great videos by the way .thanks 👍🏽
Approximately 18j temperature and projectile dependant of course.
and yes the 8.4 steel balls are only good with hpa, co2 they are to heavy
I am hoping to change that 😉
would you recommend the 4 gram pvc coated steel balls for a co2 set up?
@@OE30 i dont know which ones specifically you are referring to but i am currently using 3.5g pvc coated riot balls. They cycle really well but i feel they are a little undersized for maximum fps in the factory barrel. The riot balls measure in at 12.4mm diameter.
@@lesslethalfordummies Thanks for the info!
I found some on eBay advertised as:
"100 X Less Lethal .50 Cal Paintballs 4 Grams Solid PVC Steel"
for about $71.00
I would have to contact the seller to see if they're at least 12.7 mm.
I'm currently using 12.7 mm 1.5 gram nylon balls and they cycle like a dream with a tight seal.
@@OE30 strangely enough Riot Balls advertise them as 4g but really they are 3.5g.
I had a question why does the double delete not work on the hdr.50 like it does on the hdp.50? Would a stronger bolt spring work for a double delete valve block and restrictor on the HDR.50?
A stronger spring should alleviate the problem. My belief why the Hdr does this and not the Hdp is pressure loss through the drum creating a free air situation.
@@lesslethalfordummies yeah I can see how it would lose some air through the drum awesome perspective. What size spring and tension would you recommend?
I started testing springs but never followed it through. Its probably something i should revisit.
@@lesslethalfordummies yeah that would be some awesome experiments for the hdr.50. Awesome thank you for your help. And again I definitely appreciate your videos
Thanks for the support. Honest to goodness reason i didnt follow through is a get tired of all the tinnie tiny little screws 😂
If you can buy two... mod one for self defense and leave one stock...for practice - because it uses less gas.
I'll wait to mod until I've practiced a lot.. to save CO2.
I bought two and broke one 😂
I feel like it’s better to practice with how you intent to use it. Personal preference really.
@@lesslethalfordummies Thanks for the good advice.
How can you tell of you have a 7 vs 11 joule valve on the hdp 50?
11j valves will have the shiny co2 restrictor if you look up the co2 grip.
The marker would also have the “f” stamp integrated on the side.
I dont believe mine came with a co2 restrictor but it does have the "f" stamp so it's appears I have the 11j version? It also doesnt appear to have "threads" for the restrictor. I plan on keeping it double deleted adding the tuning barrel and a power pin.
@lylemcdowell7600 what you have is a 7.5j version. No restrictor, no threads, “f” stamp = 7.5j
What your does have is the larger valve block i side the air valve itself.
Where'd ya get the steel balls and what are the brand name??
Which balls the 12.7mm?
How do you take the valve block off?
Unfortunately during the filming of that particular video my camera crapped out and missed everything. It is really simple to knock it out with a long thin oject down the barrel once your marker has been opened up and the brass cap removed. A quick search of RUclips should get you some great videos demonstrating this process.
Where do I get the magnetic insert to replace the rubber breach insert?
The magnet is not a replacement for the detent. It is used in conjunction with the detent to alleviate jams when using steel balls.
@@lesslethalfordummies where can I get the magnet?
@@-FPIRP.ORG- They are dirt cheap on Amazon you want 3mm x 10mm Neo magnet.
@@lesslethalfordummies thank you!
@@-FPIRP.ORG- you only need one but you usually get 10 or so. They make great no scratch fridge magnets to boot.
i got the full mod ,with also 2 piece tuning barrel , you will get not 25 but 30 joules. i got in the .495 barrel not the .505 ,,in , and this one shoots everything but steel balls ,if it does go into barrel easily i wont shoot it ,i wont mess up the barrel tht way , i have others for steel balls . have you tried the 177 grain lead .50 cal balls yet ?
I have been wanting to try some lead balls thinking they might make for a better fit in the barrel. I just havent had the time with everything else that i have been up too.
@@lesslethalfordummies i got some ,thy are 177 grains , they arent as good as the steel balls because they will eventually deform lol .
@@rick31869 yowza those are heavy!
@@lesslethalfordummies i know need 50 or more joules for that lol
@@lesslethalfordummies they are closer to .495 range , they roll into tuning barrel no probz. i havent used them yet for 2 reasons . lead does deform , and i want a little more than 25 to 30 joules to test them lol . dam it ,now im curious ,i will probz put my tuning barrel back in and shoot em at 30 joules ,when i do , ill give results ! .
Hello, what is the name of the device we use to measure speed and what is the name of the FB group. my son lives in vancouver which place can buy hdr50. greetings from Queretaro Mexico
The device used to measure speed or fps (feet per second) is called a chronograph. The handheld chronograph i use is called X-Radar.
There is a paintball store in Alberta named Paintballgear.ca that is carries many Umarex markers and chronographs. Thanks for watching.
@@lesslethalfordummies Thanks for your answer friend
Why did you shoot it after watching this for 12 minutes! LOL
I talk a lot sorry.
Was that the 7.5j model?
It started as 7.5j model yes.
@@lesslethalfordummies cool cheers. I've just recently got one and the 20/30j upgrade kit but ive seen people say its better just removing the restriction. Just wondering if its worth it
@@chrisg4rr377 remove the valve block first and test it out. Then you can move on to drilling the restrictor or deleting it completely. Dont bother wasting time changing to the shorter pin it hasn’t proven to be worth the effort.
Properly bore sized ammo will have a much greater benefit after removing the block.
@@lesslethalfordummies cool cheers bro
DO THE DELETE AND PUT IN THE STAINLESS STEEL VERSION OF THE POWER KIT AND 25 JOULES YOUR FIRST SHOT !!!
I have to order a longer barrel so i will see what else i can at least try. I did lots of testing with shorter pins in my Fsc and Vks and it just didnt produce any gains.
@@lesslethalfordummies i am breaking the 25 joules mark with power valve pin 2mm shorter , valve block delete , restrictor out , when in i loose a joule or two , but my shots drop off very slowly , more consistent ,, im about to order a big order of power kits, barrels ,sniper barrels , a couple of small hpa tanks , etc. from home defense 24 ,he really has some very cool stuff !!!
@@rick31869 yeah i definitely need to try out a sniper barrel and maybe the new hpa adapter. Just waiting for it to pop up on the site.
Aluminium balls are awesome
@@lesslethalfordummies wow ,but you are right ,to an extent ,longer barrels do build up way more pressure and increase fps and joules tremendously !!!!
Who can do this to my gun?
If you are in the US….Less Lethal Home Defence or Mercy Less Lethal have great customer service.