Wine Cooler Repair
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- This video shows how I repaired my wine cooler. It hasn't worked in years and I decided to try to find a replacement board for it but I couldn't find anything. I decided to do some more research and replace the board with different parts. Here are some other links that I used for research:
Getting a Koolatron Wine Cooler Working Again
• Getting a Koolatron Wi...
Homemade Peltier Cooler Mini Fridge DIY with Temperature Controller (TEC1-12706, W1209 Thermostat)
• Homemade Peltier Coole...
scienceimprove...
Power Supply
www.amazon.ca/...
Thermostat
www.amazon.ca/...
Crimp Connectors
www.amazon.ca/...
Very calm, very disciplined, as a logical thinking professional. Explains technical verbiage well as does its effect. The external power supply direct connection to the individual components is good troubleshooting. I/we all look forward in many more of your DIY instructional videos expertly crafted. Keep-up the great work !!
Thank you for your kind words!
I have the 8 bottle version of what you fixed. I tore it apart and determined that the thermoelectic plate was bad. Both fans worked. I ordered a pair of pates and a small tube of thermal paste but held off on the power supply and the temp sensor. Glad I did and VERY glad that I didn't cut the wires off of the connectors any shorter than I did. I soldered them back together before the plate arrived. When I got them, I wired everything up to the original circuit card and the plate got cold on one side and very hot on the other VERY quickly. I would not recommend leaving it plugged in without the heat sinks attached for very long.
Thank you very much for the video. It allowed me to fix my wine cooler for about $15.
You are very welcome! I'm happy it helped!
Excellent fix, I'm going to try this myself thanks to your video.
Thank you for your nice comment!
@@antoineb8254 I had great success by using your video. I just wanted to let anyone who sees this video that they should have no fear.
Thanks! Save my wine fridge for 18 in parts , good explanation
Great! Glad it helped!
My neighbour put out a wine cooler at the curb (almost identical to yours, except it's an SPT), and I brought it in hoping it worked. Plugged in, no power (the door has temp controls and light buttons). For about 50 dollars I may give this a go, thanks for the video! I have zero experience but lots of courage!
Good luck! Let me know how it goes and don't hesitate to ask me anything if you have any questions.
@@antoineb8254 thanks!
I just picked one up from the curb today with the exact same issue.
Hi I ordered power supply and stat, but fans don’t get enough power, I tried fan on a battery work fine
Any ideas
I replaced the C8 capacitor on my control board (Next to the green and red LEDs) and am back in business. The old one tested bad. It's a 47uf 25v capacitor. Had a spare one and got up and running in under 30 minutes.
Wow! Impressive! I had a friend swap a few components but it didn't work out for me.
Antoine, I followed your video and I got my wine cooler to work, I got the same PS and temperature controller. I tow zones so all the positives and negatives together. But I used the original thermostat so I didn't have to make a hole in the cooler, just replace the connector. I created a wiring diagram in case you want to added to this video. if someone wants it let me know. Thanks a bunch h for your video!
I'm happy to hear that this video helped! I'd love to get your wiring diagram but I'm not sure how to share it with everyone. Is it in a google doc that I can share the link?
@@antoineb8254 Hey Antoine, I could send you the diagram by email, I don't know how to do it with RUclips. I have it in PDF, regards.
Great video... I wanted to add that some coolers use low voltage fans. So, while the Peltier may be 12vdc the fans may be as little as 3.7vdc in which case a resistance must be added. This would be determined by whether you want to connect them in series or parallel to the second output on the power supply. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for your comment, good point! I didn't think of that.
The original power supply has thermal control and peltier element protection. There is one thermoresistor (NTC) located on the cold side of the peltier element heatsink (inside) and another NTC located in the chamber near the door. The first one turns off 10.5V power when the temerature reaches ~0C (icing point). The second one turns off power when the temperature in the chamber reaches set temperature - there is a knob near it. When the desired temperature is reached the 10.5V is turned off and the fans will slowly spin on trickle power. Using only one thermostat is OK but you may not have icing protection.
Ha! I wish I understood all this at the time! I'm happy to say that I haven't gotten any ice but it's probably because of the range of temperatures I'm holding at. Lucky I guess. Thanks for letting me know!
Yes very calm and also easy to understand. I currently have an Avanti ewc18n2pd, on front screen shows code 88. The two fans look like they want to start. They give one spin then stop. When I disconnect one fan (doesn't matter top or bottom) the other starts. But then on front screen it shows EE (error) for the fan that it's disconnected. Like you mentioned in the beginning of the video. Something on that board is bad.
Thank you for your kind words!
Good idea. Very well explained. Thanks !!
Thank you!
Thank you! Will try this myself. My fridge is dual zone, my guess is buy two thermostats and attach the wires of each zone to a different thermostat and end up with the same outcome
Hello! Yes, I have another one that is dual zone and that is exactly what I will be doing.
@@antoineb8254 I know you’re just learning yourself, but I get power to the two fans of the zone that isn’t cooling, and I get power to the cooling node as well. I’m beginning to think I may not need to replace the power supply. I replaced the cooling node but still doesn’t work.
@@MiguelRamirez-nc3if did you hook up the peltier device correctly? I ask because if the wires are reversed you will be heating rather than cooling.
@@antoineb8254 that happened to me with one of the Peltiers, I just reversed the polarity.
Great video!
Thank you!
Can you use the the orginal temperature probe and plug it into the new thermostat, instead of drilling and taping the new one? They should both have the same plug and they should both be 10K NTC.
That's a good question. I honestly didn't try to figure that out but if you are able to, please let me know. It would be preferable if it was possible.
Hi there, I didn't replaced the thermostat, my was dual zone and reused only one and removed the zone divider to make one zone.
Hello, I have a questions and I wasn't able to find any info on that... I replaced my unit boards and cooling units. The unit cools fine and reaches the desire temperature successfully. Only red light stays on as the green light goes out. However, both fans - internal and external - keep spinning non-stop instead of shutting off while unit is holding the set temperature. Would you know by any chance why? Thank you
Hello! The thermostat has a setting that can be set to cooling or to heating. The purpose of this setting is: when on cooling, the circuit will be open (cut) when the temperature is lower than the target temperature and will close (connect) when the temperature is higher than the target temperature. In heating mode, it is the opposite. The circuit will open if the temperature is higher than the target temperature and close when it is lower. Is it possible that your thermostat is set to heating mode?
Hello my friend and thank you for this! Just want to be sure of my wiring. The fans and cooling (Peliter device) are all tied together and are connected to the thermostat switch? The inside light is connected on its own to the power supply?
Hello! Yes that is exactly right.
@@antoineb8254 Thanks for getting back to me A B! Really appreciate it!
I purchased the power supply but won’t power anything, tried 12V and dans operate, any suggestions
Is it possible that the problem is with the power supply? Did you measure the voltage with a voltmeter?
Dose this type contain compressor ? if not how does it cool? I have Cuisinart MODEL CWC-600 SERVICE
Hello! No it doesn't. It has a thermoelectric cooler called a peltier device. When you add power, one side of the device gets cold and the other side gets hot.
@@antoineb8254 Thanks
tie wine cooler which I have does not cool ,what do you think the Reason ? the fans are working .@@antoineb8254
Hey I have a wine cooler simular to that was wonder if the thermal block is a 12 volts and does that create the coldness in the unit thank
Yes it becomes very cool inside.
Can you explain yhe wiring diagram for the thermostat or send link please?
Check out this link and go towards the bottom and you should see it scienceimproved.com/homemade-pelter-cooler-temperature-controller-diy/ . If it isn't clear let me know and I'll try to explain.
Can you put the link for that part? I have the same issue and wanting to replace it.
Which part specifically?
@@antoineb8254 the motherboard and the thermostat. Now on mine it has a built in thermostat but a dialed one so I’ll be replacing that to the digital like yours.
@@garrick102able Henxlco AC 110V - 220V TO DC 12V Universal Regulated Transformer Switch Power Supply Driver Adapter For LED Strip Light (10A) a.co/d/b9EGXBj
DC 12V Digital Display Adjustable Microcomputer Electronic Thermostat Intelligent Temperature Controller Switch with NTC Waterproof Sensor Probe a.co/d/dbfMC36
How much to replace a new one sir?
A new win cooler? About $300 usd.
So that’s a thermoelectric wine cooler?
Don’t you have to have it in a room that’s ambient temperature Is very cool as welll. ? Like if the temperature is 80 outside in room temperature wouldn’t the coldest the the cooler get 80 as well.
Hi! Yes this is a thermoelectric wine cooler. No, it does not need to be in a cool room. The way it works is that when current runs through the peltier device, one side gets cold and the other side gets hot. If you manage to get the heat away from the hot side (by using a heat sink and fan), the cool side will get cooler. If your room is cool, this will help the process and make it more efficient but it will not limit how cold it can get inside the cooler. If your cooler is well insulated, it can get quite cold in there to the point where you can even freeze water. Let me know if I wasn't clear and I can try to go into more detail.
@@antoineb8254 nope that was pretty clear. I must’ve just had some crappy units . It gets hot here and I don’t cool the entire house. I use Mini splits for the bulk of the house I spend the most time in. But had 3 of these over the years and couldn’t keep the temperature much lower then room temperature and thdy sucked the juice too compared to the one I got that uses a compressor. It stays about 75 to 80 in the kitchen. I went with the thermoelectric options at 1st cuz they were so much cheaper upfront then the compressor unit. But by the time I spent the 150 , 200 and 250 on the 3 different thermo units I could’ve just got the size unit I needed in a compressor unit . Anyway thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. You got any recommendations on a 32 bottle thermo unit that actually keeps things cold. I got a 12 bottle compressor but need something bigger. Now.
I’ve tried Black n decker, Koolatron and Avincia thermos.,won’t be tryin any of those brands again.
@@timpage5021 I'm sorry I can't really recommend any brand since I'm not that familiar with a any of them. All I can say is make sure that you have good airflow where the heat sink is in the back. Make sure that fan is spinning. Are you embedding the unit under a counter? Some units specify that you shouldn't do that since it traps heat and prevents airflow to the heat sink. Also, I have noticed that it takes a while to get cold in there, especially when it is full. Also make sure the seal is air tight.
@@antoineb8254 thank you all solid advice.
After putting my cooler back together I left it in my 85 degree shop to do an initial test. The cooler got down to 65. The peltier will basically give you a delta T of a certain temp. Once it can no longer pass heat to the outside, the process backs up and only maintains the inner temp.
I seen u got lights in your cooler l got as well but they don't work at some point
Yes I had to plug the wires of the light directly into the power supply.
U mean to L/n l got two yellow wires from thermostat was in little white plastic brick together and two black same in little white brick and two red and black in plastic white brick. I just tooked switch off and l seen red and black is a power but what about this two black? Thermostat is all yellow any idea where l should plug all this for make it work?
I would be happy if l could text u and send u photos of this wires as l can't do here sadly. I get it going cooler and works brilliant. Thanks for this video only lights left over to do. If u got a Facebook please send me message Alex di Wayne. Thank u so much
@@alexdiwayne3362 I connected the wire for the light in V+ and V-, not L/n as that is 120V, you need 12V for the light.
I did that don't work not matter what + or - was didn't work. I changed led light as well don't work ether any idea?. Maybe l could put to L /N transformer for lights and put wires from led light maybe then will work.
I can only imagine how tedious your experience was bc oof this was like grueling -.-
This was more of an experiment and a challenge to myself more than anything else.
@@antoineb8254 I was like this guy really talking trash about another guys video? Like we’re all just trynna fix it 😅
@@Angrybahllz oh that is unfortunate, that wasn't my intention at all!!