Sub-Zero 424 Wine Cooler Sealed System Repair
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- This video shows how to disassemble and a Sub-Zero 424 wine cooler and replace an evaporator coil and a switching valve, Procedures include recovering freon, pressurizing sealed system and checking for leaks and recharging.
15:46 - This video is so blurry, it makes it look like I need to change _my_ glasses! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and techniques!
Nice video. Thanks! About how much did this repair cost the owner?
$900
Nice job!!!! I do these under warranty for True Residential and evaps are the leakers there. Since they are warranty True pays to replace all tubing, both evaps, compressor and switching valve. I remove the middle control/shelf and that gives me a much easier time in both compartments. Just my opinion...I would have replaced the other cap as well and blown the other evap out with nitrogen since the unit was sucking in moisture, just to save you future aggravation.
I pulled a deep vacuum on both sides of the system to eliminate any moisture. The unit was delivered last week and has been working properly. Thanks for the comment. Let us know if there are any other videos that would help.
I worked on a True Residential wine cooler last year and was impressed with it, I think they will give Sub-Zero a run for their money.
@@SubZeroSpecialists I agree, it's very nice equipment. Other than the problems with some evap leaks and software upgrades they've been bullet proof. I am authorized with True and would like to become authorized with Sub Zero in the Philadelphia Pa market but it's easier to get struck by lightening than to get a response from Sub Zero.
@@stevengilber1153 How did you get authorized with True? Do you do commercial as well? I also would like to be authorized to do True Residential. As for sub-Zero the company has changed quite a bit since the grandson has taken over. As for becoming factory service, you have to know someone to get in, but once you're in you're in for good.
@@SubZeroSpecialists I would call their residential technical service dept at 1800-325-6152 a fellow named David Swift is who I originally dealt with....very easy to get along with. I do not do commercial and in my area True has a boat load of authorized commercial guys and only three residential...I think most commercial guys are to busy and not use to dealing with high end home owners.....who can be a pain in the A-- as i'm sure you know. I too remove all of the sealed system work and do it at my shop unless its in an outdoor pool house/kitchen setting which is seasonal.
Hi
I have a leak on a 424 wine fridge. Looks like it's coming from the 2 cap lines up front. Looks like they go up inside the front .how do you get to them
Can you take a pic of where it is leaking and send it to me at support@aaronsrefrigeration.com
Hi
The compressor is running so is that a good sign or bad?
so I would have to put a line tap on for me to add freon because these units are sealed?
Also I would have to add freon if it empty to search for a leak ? Thank you
You’ll need a line tap valve and a gauge to check the pressure. If you’re running in a vacuum you probably have a leak and you’ll need to find it to fix it properly, most likely it’s the evaporator coils, or you could have a bad switching valve. You didn’t mention what the initial problem was.
Yes, this makes me understand the $1800 repair bill now. That's a ton of work and I totally underestimated it. Definitely not an easy DIY job.
hola amigo , excelente video, tengo esa misma cava, con la siguiente falla, trabajo bien un par de días con buenas temperatura en los dos compartimientos, pero al tercer o cuarto día las temperaturas se suben a 81 en cada lado y me pide servicio, también se apaga, si la desconecto y vuelvo a conectar trabaja un par de días mas, me puedes orientar por donde va el error, muchas gracias.
Hello friend, excellent video, I have that same cellar, with the following failure, I work well for a couple of days with good temperatures in both compartments, but on the third or fourth day the temperatures rise to 81 on each side and he asks me for service, It also turns off, if I disconnect it and reconnect it works a couple of days more, you can guide me where the error goes, thank you very much.
It sounds like one of your evaporator coils is icing up due to a freon leak. If possible check the sealed system pressure, it may be low on refrigerant. It could be many other things but freon leaks are the most common.
First comment from India
Hey I'm having similar issues but on mine only one evap is soaking heat....qnd the low side qnd high side are completely separated.
I pulled a vacuum on low side only to find
Out thw high side was pressurized
I don’t understand the question you’re asking.
Hello I love your videos…. They are extremely well done. I see you use what you call a charging column in your repairs. I’ve seen other posts in which several will refer these as museum pieces vs using a digital scale. I’d be interested in your thoughts on digital scale approach?
I also have a digital scale but it’s big and bulky and I only use it in my shop. As for the charging column I’ve been using them for over 30 years and they’re compact and fit in my toolbox. The 16oz charging columns are still available but are on back order since last July from Thermal Engineering.
@@SubZeroSpecialists makes sense to me and the charging column seems so easy I just don’t quite understand why I see some that act like it should never be used. I do have another question for you if you don’t mind. I have a Viking fridge that is basically the same issue as this video. I have traced the leak to be a pin hole that is in the copper line in the refrigerator before it gets to the evaporator. I would like to make sure the refrigerant is empty and just braze over the pin hole. My father was a plumber and so I grew up helping him and have probably soldered a thousand fittings in my life…. But I have never brazed before. I expect I can just use my acetylene torch and heat the brazing rod / pipe and drag across the pin hole but not sure how much I should put heat in the pipe if just covering a pin hole? Also I’m not sure if I need to put nitrogen into the line prior to brazing? It’s a sealed system that I will use piercing valve so I can charge…. But I don’t know how I would flow the nitrogen with only a single valve and I’m not sure if it’s fine to braze with the line charged with nitrogen? Appreciate your thoughts.
@@2050dm As for soldering the pin hole you can use silver solder which flows better and requires less heat, Harris Stay-Silv 45 or 56 works for me, but a brazing rod will work also. I don't know how you would be able to evacuate the sealed system properly unless from both the high-side and low-side. Whenever you enter a sealed system always replace the filter drier, you can get one with a process port on it and then run the compressor after you fix the leak to draw out all the nitrogen out of the filter port until you're pulling at least a deep vacuum on the low side. There should be no pressure in the system when you solder the leak otherwise it won't seal. If you don't have the right tools you may be able to rent them, if you do the job right the first time you'll avoid problems in the future. You may want to peruse some of my other sealed system videos to get a better understanding of the process. Feel free to reach out to me if you have a problem.
@@SubZeroSpecialists thank you. This is very helpful. I feel I do have many of the tools I need as I have been acquiring them for exactly this repair. The last item I still need to get before i start is just a recovery tank. I already have torch, gauges, vacuum recovery pump, leak detector, acetylene tank, nitrogen tank, etc …. I have already identified the pin hole leak…. I just didn’t want to enter the system until I feel comfortable about the steps to then fix the hole. I was thinking I would need to braze but if 56% silver solder is fine I will use that instead with also the stay silv flux. Regarding the filter dryer with port. Can I just use any particular one? I see there are many available and pricing ranges from $9 to over $100. I see this Supco D111 Copper Drier 1.5 x 2.5 x 3.5 Inch that is only $10 and I wonder if it should work fine or do I really need to attempt to get the exact dryer listed for the fridge? Thx again. I’m excited to attempt this fix but want to ensure I’m doing correctly so I really value your guidance?!
@@2050dm Yes you can use the D111 from Supco, we bought 1K of them for a dollar each from an offshore supplier and I can't wait until they're all gone, the copper is so thin you can bight into plus they're very hard to bend, they usually kink. That being said Parker makes a better on for a few dollars more. As for the recover tank, someone makes a recovery bag but not sure where you can get it. Good luck.
Can you tell what is wrong if the top of the 424 wine cooler gets cold and the bottom does not cool?
Most likely it’s the switching valve
Thanks! I will try to change that out. Do you have a video on where it is located?
@@deejayhall1 yes there is a video on how to replace the evaporators and includes the switching valve.
How do you remove the computer and the motherboard from this unit? Seems to be glued to the walls of the cooler.
Thanks!
Go to our website and look under Tech-Help for your model.
Our website is aaronsrefrigeration.com
I am in search of a sub 424 board if you have one to sell. Thanks : )
Call parts department: 800-542-2313
what is the normal amperage rating?
Start amps or run amps?
@@SubZeroSpecialists start and run please.. ty
You can find that info on our website www.Aarons Refrigerstion.com under Tech Help. Look under Technical info. The start amps are 6 x the run amps. It’s also listed on the compressor
"wtf? that much?" when the customer sees the bill..
"ok that makes sense, good job!" when the customer watches the video lol
# just like in math class, always show your work ;)
You knew it had a leak why would you try and repair it when it could just form another leak in the future instead of wasting all that time you should have just replaced it all and had a new sealed system.
It’s not a waste of time if you’re saving money. On this model you have to replace the heat exchanger with it which means separating the upper cabinet from lower base-very time consuming.
@@SubZeroSpecialists honestly it's not very time consuming and it's the proper way to do it... It's the best thing for the customer and is the best way to insure that it will run properly for years to come.