Building a Post Frame Home | ICF Frost Wall for Post Frame Home | Ep3
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- Опубликовано: 29 ноя 2021
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Thanks for stopping by our channel! We are self building our family of 5 a post frame barndominium in Iowa along with the life we’ve always dreamed of.
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Хобби
Anything constructed by this guy is perfect. He is really a perfectionist and a detailist, even when the work is not for himself.
Thank you, appreciate the comment.
As it Should Be!
People Want Quality, and
Quality, Will Sell Itself!
He Will Never Be Slow, and
Will Always Be In Demand,
Without Advertising!
Triple Checking Everything,
and Attention to Details, is
The Key to a Successful Build
on Any Scale! Especially in
The Footings! Excellent Work,
from a Very Impressed,
Binge Watching, 30 Year GC!
Amen...Paul is the best! 👍
Dude I can't get over how nice your footings came out. Especially in the cold. Love your videos, your skill and work ethic is truly inspiring.
Cheers
Thanks for the comment!
@@MrPostFrame Marshall, how much did you save using ICF compared to a standard 4 ft foundation wall? I am building a post frame building and I'm using 1/4 for living and 3/4th for a large shop/work area/garage. I was told it would cost me 50-60$ a foot for a four ft foundation wall to build on. I am not building it myself, I don't have the skill to do it correctly. Thx for any info on price savings between the two.
Don't kid yourself - the reason that wall is so nice is the amazing prep work and care you put in to what you do. Amazing work.
Thank you!
@@MrPostFramedo you need to put the membrane on for just a 6 inch above grade stemwall with a slab?
Building "more than strong" are words to live by and a hell of lot better than "not strong enough". Excellent work.
Thanks for watching!
I'm impressed with the ICF method of building stem walls. Not only does it add insulation that traditional methods didn't have it required a lot less bracing reducing the amount of time and equipment required. Thanks for sharing
We are happy with how easy things were to work with.
A couple years ago I did the math of icf stem wall vs forming traditional walls out of plywood. ICF was about 10% more. That was before the material shortages.
I built my log home on top of a basement using these. I sure used a ton of bracing to make sure I didn't get blow outs. Basement stays 69 degrees year round! Make sure you plan any thing that might need to go through the wall. Cutting a hole later is tough! Love this guys work.
Thanks for watching!
I would love to see pics of your work. Sounds awesome. How high are your basement ceilings? I'm thinking of building a post frame (Northern Michigan on 12 acres wooded) using these for 4 ft foundation walls but now that you mentioned it, I would love to build something with a basement. I need a 40by 50 or larger building I can use 1/4th living space and 3/4 garage /shop/work. Do you have any advice on what kind of building I should build? Post frame? Steel? Log home with basement with big garage? Is there anything you would change if you had to do it again? Any advice or info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ralph -
my grandpa did a ICF house (all the way to the roof) nearly 30 years ago now.. to this day its still the safest house in tornado alley i feel LOL
They have their advantages
Agreed, they are pretty awesome...I would likely do this if I could afford it...very DIY. Actually, I originally planned to... but petroleum products (blocks & cement along with steel are still out of sight...and wood has come down so much.
My brother built an ICF house 10 years ago on a high exposed hill in Canada. 50-70mph sustained wind are not uncommon with -40⁰. The monolithic nature of these structures are ideal for his scenario. With their radiant heat on both floors & well sealed Canadian windows, they are snug on the worst nights. But...
...it comes at a cost. ($) I believe that 6x8 Post frame with OSB & 3" closed cell spray foam on roof & walls will be very close in strength in a monolithic ways & far cheaper. Maybe better on many ways as his actually just had standard trusses (I think this is his weakest point) & blown in insulation.
You are very dedicated and enthusiastic. I wish you a lot of health.
Thanks for the detail of spray foam on the bottom, leaving gaps for water to escape during pour.
You're welcome.
Love watching your quality workmanship and attention to detail.
Thank you!
Really looking forward for the next video of this construction.
We are dead nuts-what a great feeling!
I really love watching your videos! You do great work! I don't normally comment on things like this. I did notice something though that I'm going to talk about. Rule of thumb for most concrete guys is overlap for rebar splice should be at least 30 times the diameter of the rebar. For walls some guys will say 40D or even 50D. So if you are using #4 bar (1/2") you should have at least a 15" overlap at the splice. I just noticed the splice to the right of your corner. Thought maybe I'd throw it out there. That's how we all get better at what we do, I'm definitely not trying to critique your work. Keep the great videos coming, I've learned a lot from you!
Awesome work man! These never get old to watch!
Thank you!
Well done, love your detail in the job.
Thank you very much!
these blocks are really cool. I like how they stack lock together like lego. So you dont have to manually level each row of blocks like you do when manually mortaring CMU's. and installing the penetrations and sleeves is easier, cutting styrofoam is a lot easier than cutting concrete. not to mention the R value benefits.
Yeah, they were nice to work with.
Good one Paul. Keep up the great work
Thanks for watching!
Such good fun cutting ICF’s… bet you’re glad that’s over
Good luck 👍👍
Yep, excited to get this structure going
Looking good.Good work
Thank you!
At 6:40 I believe you said “ yep, full circle” when I said out loud to myself “yep, all square”. Somehow I felt wrong 😅
Nicely done!
Thanks for watching!
I use a sawzall with no blade against a 2x6 as a vibrator. It works great!
Good to know!
Excelente trabajo 👌👌🆗 saludos desde Chile 🇨🇱👌💯💯
Thanks for watching!
Nice job Paul my wife keeps asking me to ask you when do you what to build are shop/home back home in good old winnabgo County lol keep up the awsome work
That would be a lot of fun to come back there and build sometime!
My dad designed that block. I would recommend to use L metal on the bottom of the block and nail it into the concrete to keep the block from moving when poring concrete. I would have also removed that dirt in the center of your build for a crawl space with a raised foundation but there's several ways to do things and that's just the way I prefer to build. You can take metal track and screw it to the top level on each side and shave the foam down to flat. Plus that will allow you to get a smoother wall on top when trawling the mud. Dang, that was supper slick using that spray foam to hold the ICF to the concrete footer. I've never done that before but will for now on.
I'm far from any expert but I was wondering also why you left the dirt and didn't have a crawl space especially with the foundation that tall. But knowing how well you do things I'm sure you have a reason for it
I think he is pouring a concret slab inside the frost wall.
Crawl spaces don't work with post frame structures
@@jeffsloan6946 Not true. You can build post frames with basement.
Can you please tell me how much extra the cost is for doing that crawl space and also how tall will the crawl space be? I'm planning on building a fairly large building in Northern Michigan and we have a crawl space on our 50 year old 4 bedroom 2 bath house my Grandfather built on 12 acres in the woods. I need a building maybe 40 by 50 or larger so I can use 1/4 living space with 2 bedrooms and bathroom and 3/4 garage/shop/work. Do you have any advice for me? Steel building or post frame? Crawl space? How big should I go? What should I do for foundation walls? Any advice would be a great help. I am not building it myself because I don't have the knowledge or skill to do it right. Thanks again for any advice -
I built 6 1/2 years ago using LOGIX. I took they're class put on by a representative. They used 3' tywraps to pull the blocks together. I like the clips.
awesome thanks for sharing!
@@MrPostFrame Our house is essentially round. It's comprised of 17 8 foot wall sections. Consequently, I had to cut every single block for the house at a 22 degree miter. I wasn't as precise as you're being. I left a gap so I could adjust for plumb and filled with spray foam. By the time I finished the house, the garage was a piece of cake. Whipped it out in an afternoon.
Great job! As a double check, I would use a 3-4-5 triangle (multiplied to 30' - 40' - 50' to check how square your corners are as you build your forms. It may seem like this is anal, but you only get one chance to square your house.
A standard 2" x 6" wall system is superior to post frame because it is far stronger. This is especially true if you shear the exterior - which you should do. You can also shear the exterior with ZIP board and create your water barrier with the shear. This saves you a LOT of time.
Now would be a VERY good time to treat your whole foundation for termites. You can do it yourself. You can buy Termidor online and treat the outside of the foam blocks, the concrete and the ground by the footer. When you backfill, some of the barrier will be disturbed but most of it will remain intact. Pests and rodents like to burrow into the foam. The foam SHOULD come with an anti-pest treatment, but spraying everything that will be underground with Termidor (or equal) will protect the foundation for years. Soaking the ground around the outside of your footer will provide additional protection. All of this would cost about $250.00 for the chemical (Termidor), and a couple of hours to apply it. So it is well worth it.
Frank, I'm building(or planning on having it built because I don't have the skill to build it correctly) a 40 by 50 or maybe larger post frame building in Northern Michigan on our 12 acre wooded lot. We have a house on it but I need a building. I'm going to use roughly 1/4 living and 3/4 garage and shop. I was told building it on a 4ft foundation wall is far better than post in the ground but it will cost around 50-60$ a ft for the foundation but if I did ICF myself I could save a lot of money. Do you have any advice for me? I would love to hear your thoughts on it because to be honest, I don't have the knowledge or skill to build it myself. I heard the building itself might only be 50-60k but the finishing work is where the money goes. Is 100k enough or am I not even close? Also, what size would you recommend? Thanks for any held you can offer. -
@@MaximusMerideus There are several factors involved that affect cost. Make sure if you are going to build a building, not to undersize it. It won't cost you a lot more to build a 3000 SF building as opposed to the 2000 SF building you propose. However, it will cost more to heat and cool a 3000 SF building.
I would strongly suggest that you review the "Mad County" building series for post frame buildings on RUclips. He does a superb job of showing the steps about how to build a post and frame building.
The Mad County series shows:
1. Foundation preparation
2. Installing radiant heat in flooring.
3. Installing a septic system
4. Framing the home
5. installing a metal roof system
Reviewing the Mad County RUclips videos will help you a lot because he is building in a cold climate like you.
Having recommended the Mad County series, I would recommend these changes to his post and frame buildings:
1. Don't use a post and frame system. It is weaker than a western framing system if your building is subjected to tornadoes or high winds. Instead use a 2"x 6" wall system that is framed 16" on center. It is far stronger than post and frame.
2. Make sure to use the Zip waterproofing system for your building. The Mad County builder did not use this system and he had problems with water infiltrating his walls. Use the Zip OSB (plywood) sheets with the vapor barrier fused into the plywood on the outside of your building as shear panel. Nail it 4" on center (OC) with #6 galvanized nails ( you can use a nail gun for this).
Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions for the Zip system assiduously. This will ensure that you will never have water leaks into your house.
3. Make sure that your roof system is steep enough allow snow the slide off of it. Install OSB on your wood trusses as the base for your roof. I don't like the roof structure shown in the Mad County videos.
Installing 1/2" OSB on your roof trusses GREATLY improves the strength of the building.
Install Grace Water and Ice Shield on the first 8' of your roof (measured from the perimeter) to protect from roof rot. If you can afford it, install it on your entire roof over the OSB. It is the best underlayment for roofs..
4. Minimize the size of your overhang on your roof (the eave). An 18" overhang should be sufficient. It is best to seal the underside of the eave with fiber cement or metal paneling.
Try to use composite fascia for your eaves. If it is not available, cover your wood facia with metal to protect it from the elements. The metal manufactures have pre-fab fascia covers that have 20 - year paint warranties.
5. Typically there are draftsman that will provide a complete set of plans for your house for $3000.00 or so. I strongly recommend that you find a good draftsman to do your plans. I also strongly recommend that you spend another $2000 - $3000 for a structural engineer.
6. Hire a geo-tech engineer to do a soils test where you are going to put your building. You need to know BEFORE you build your structure about any settlement issues. You also need to know the soil bearing strength. Typically this costs around $1500.00. Make sure to get a soil drainage test if you are going to install a septic system.
7. Make sure you oversize your footer. Your structural engineer will provide the size based on the soil bearing strength. I would suggest a minimum size of 16" deep x 24" wide. Your footer MUST be installed BELOW the ground freeze line for your area. Don't skimp on your footer, your entire building structure depends on it.
8. As mentioned use a 2" x 6" western framing system. It is cost competitive, proven and very strong.
9. Permit your project if at all possible. It will ensure that it will maintain its values and it will save you from a world of potential legal problems. Some cities and counties will make you tear down your building if it is not permitted.
A rough guess of your costs would be $100k - $125k depending on how much labor you can do. If you subcontract it, you will probably be $150k - $175k depending on your finishes, your HVAC requirements, your electrical supply, Whether or not you need a septic system.
10 You will need a well system if you don't have a municipal water supply. You can substitute installing large water storage tanks and filtering the water - this is much cheaper than a well system. Depending on your rainfall levels, it can be the best choice. Remember your water storage tanks will freeze in the winter if you do not insulate and protect them.
11. Protect all of your plumbing from freezing. I cannot emphasize this enough.
12. Install a radiant subfloor heating system if possible. The Mad County series shows you how.
I hope these suggestions help.
@@franklong6269 Thank you so much for in depth reply, that was very kind of you, Frank. We have a deep well and septic because we have a nice 4 bed 2 bath house that my grandfather built on the property 45 years ago. I just need some more space and a larger building with living space and shop/work space is what I'm thinking. Hey buddy, I just want to thank you again for your reply. That took time out of your busy day and I truly appreciate it. I hope you and your family have a safe and prosperous 2022 and beyond -
@@MaximusMerideusYou are welcome.
One other thing I would do if I were building your house is raise the foundation 10' above ground level and create an enclosed parking and storage area under the house. I would go to the extra expense to pour a 6" thick, rebar reinforced, concrete slab under the house that is stronger than a typical garage slab. This will allow you to store heavy equipment, like a backhoe, tractor, etc. under the home safely.
This will cost you more (obviously) but it has several benefits:
1. It increases the value of your home because now you have a very large area under the home for a workshop, garage and storage.
2. It provides easy access under your floor to insulate and install plumbing.
3. If you enclose the area, it will allow you to keep pests out from under your house - like rats, squirrels, raccoons, termites, bugs, snakes, etc. Just the enclosure structure itself prevents substantial protection.
4. It helps prevent your piping from freezing.
5. It provides you space to create and enclosed mechanical room for your HVAC equipment, radiant flooring piping system, electrical system, etc. all in one place. Create a floor drain system for this room just in case there is a water leak.
6. Raising the subfloor up will substantially decrease the amount of energy you need to heat and cool your home. In cold climates, as the ground freezes, it is so cold that it attempts to freeze your floor and wall system. Raising the house up off of the ground provides a barrier between this freezing force which tries to take over your building structure.
7. Having a raised home dramatically increases the aesthetic beauty of your views. It gives you that "tree house" effect.
8. Raising the home allows you to build beautiful decks around the perimeter of your home at your entry, master bedroom, kitchen and guest bedroom areas.
9. It helps prevent water from getting into your home during high snow falls. Some areas get 4'-8' of snow in a year.
Here are some cautions about raising the floor:
1. Make sure your decks are fenced and gated to prevent bears from getting onto the access areas to your home. You can do this later after your home is built.
2. This will increase the cost of your home by $15k - $20k. But remember, on paper it will add more value than that to your home. If you sell it, it will probably add $40k - $50k in value. PLUS you will substantially lower your energy costs over the life of the home.
3. Make sure that you have your site graded and compacted to flow away from the concrete floor installed at ground level. I cannot emphasize this enough. Install 6" of compacted ABC under your slab. Defer to the geo-tech's design for this, but he will probably agree with this.
4. Pour 8" thick structural concrete walls if possible for your perimeter stemwall. You MUST have a structural engineer design this system. While the upfront cost to pour the concrete walls is high, remember that this will enclose the lower perimeter of your home also and save you that cost. If you do pour concrete walls, make damn sure you use a top tier concrete subcontractor. This is NOT the place to save a few dollars.
Alternatively you can pour a footer and stemwall system and build a 8" x 16" CMU wall structural system that is solid grouted with rebar. Again, make SURE that a structural engineer designs this system. This CMU system is more DIY friendly, but it is a lot of work.
A third possibility is to install steel reinforced concrete columns to build the house structure on. This is a common way to save money, but I am not thrilled with this system for raising the house. It is inherently weaker than the two above systems and it leaves the bottom of your home open to pests.
5. You will have to heat the lower garage/mechanical/ storage area, and possibly cool it. You don't have to keep it as warm as your home, you just have to keep it from freezing.
If you have an open area near the home lot, I would suggest building a 15 KW ground mounted solar system to power your home, even if you are grid connected. It will pay for itself in approximately 5-years if you are living in the home full time. If you build it yourself, you can get the cost to around $15K - $20k. If you do some study, they are not that hard to build. You will have to permit the system. Your draftsman should be able to add this to your plans. Make your solar system to be grid-tied (if you have a grid) and switchable to off-grid.
6. Use composite materials to build any deck. Make sure the manufacturer rates their deck material for the temperatures of your climate. Composite decks are far superior to wood decks and they don't require maintenance (other then hosing them off once in a while and cleaning them).
7. Make sure that you use high quality windows for your home. They will easily pay for themselves in a cold climate. Typically triple pane windows are recommended for extremely cold areas. Talk to window manufacturer reps and ask them what they recommend for your area. Try to find the local rep.
I understand that this is probably WAY too much overkill for what you are doing, but this is kind of my ideal of what I would do if I was going to build a 3000 SF house in a remote area (I am assuming it is remote, maybe it's not).
I don't like/use ICF, but I love your work and videos and attention to detail.
Thanks for watching. Doubtful you'll see us do more than a frost wall with the blocks, but so far the experience has been good.
@@MrPostFrame Is this a customer job? have you done any FPSF? I am hooked on it as a process, low labor and low materials/cement. I am able to do 16"x14" footers in zone 4b with a 4' 2" foam skirt that I butt up to the top of the footer, Or up against the foam wrapping the footer. I pretty much only do rafted foundations now, not a single square of cement anywhere touches the earth.
There is a million ways to build a thing!
The blocks are great I watch a whole house here in the uk getting done like that a few years ago it was a great job the polystyrene blocks are a really great idea they had problems with the polystyrene bursting but you have went that extra mile and no problems because you strengthened the core excellent job as always well done 👍
Thanks for watching!
Wow!😳
Thanks!
May be dumb question to some but wondering how you figure elevation of pipes. Also curious what you will do for exterior face of fox blocks to hide white styrofoam. I'm assuming faux block or brick but there is no ledger.
Thank you for the detailed video. I enjoyed it. I am not in construction nor have any plans to build anything. But just a viewer who is stuck at home going completely stir-crazy from all the rising crime and COVID protocols. I would offer to contribute if I had the ability to. Before back-filling you should sell tickets and have a wine-tasting-party in the trench.
lol that's really a genius idea.
Great job!! How much does the fox blocks cost per block?
How much lap do you put on the reo when one length isn't long enough or when you come to the corner bar?
What is the minimum overlap distance for the rebars? Do you need to get a PE to sign off on a rebar inspection prior to pouring?
Did you have to special order a width of fox blocks to fit the brackets and posts?
Nice work, Paul. Could you have just poured the wall to the height of the inside form? The floor would then be poured to your finish height (outside form). Would have saved forming the ledge. I guess If you intend on building the post frame before the floor is poured, this idea would not work.
Prefer to get the exterior up before doing the interior slab
Just absolutely fascinating. You do incredible work. Do you mind explaining the advantage of the ICF versus how you did your foundation? Thank you for creating great videos and for sharing your knowledge with us.
We prefer to do the column footings as we did with our build, but the build site wasn't suitable for that. So we used the ICF to do a frost wall on a continuous footing.
@@MrPostFrame I'm curious if the build site wasn't suitable because of the grade of the property or some other issue? I am going to be starting a big project this year up in MI inspired by you and I was assuming I was going to do columns for the footings but now I am curious if I need to change that plan?
@@alexwoods4906 Alex, what part of Michigan? I am also planning a big build in Northern Michigan. We have a 4 bedroom 2 bath ranch on 12 acres and I need to put up a big building to use as extra living space and large garage/shop/work area.
@@MaximusMerideus near Grand Rapids.
Excellent work. Any reason for stem wall rather than piers supporting the posts as often done in a post frame construction
The build site. Always prefer doing the column footings, but in this case we needed to do this.
@@MrPostFrame : thanks. What is your recommendation for northeast (PA) climate. We have a frost line of 30 inch
I see your internal bracing at the top... How do you prevent blowout during the pour on the outside foam?
The ICF blocks have internal webb to prevent blowout. The black strings you see.
Did the foundation need to be as deep/strong in the are where the roof lands on the columns? Doesn’t seem to be load-bearing entirely.
Great video!!
You said you'll use dry set post brackets. Curious why not wet set. I'm planning to do post frame on top of a walkout basement and thought I may need wet set brackets. Thoughts of wet vs dry?
I am going to throw in my idea. I built a ramp and deck about 4 years ago and 2 x 6 on 4 x 4 posts set in Simpson post holders set in concrete to keep the posts out of the concrete. Wood tends to rot when it is set into concrete so I kept the wood out of the concrete and dry. Some of my posts are not much taller than the Simpson holders. All of the wood was treated.
I want to do the same thing. I'm thinking wet set would be more difficult with the vertical and horizontal rebar in the ICF wall. The wet set brackets have long pieces of rebar welded onto the bottom. They may hit the rebar in the wall.
Trying to figure out the vicinity you’re working in with this build. I know you said something about a zone in a previous episode, so guessing more like Minnesota, South Dakota area maybe? It’s sure looking colder there than here in NW Missouri! You do such a good job of explaining things, Paul! It’s greatly appreciated. All the best on this build & hopefully the weather will cooperate!
He's based south of Des Moines.
@@matthewerwin4677 Thanks. We knew that. Just wondering whereabouts this new build was going on. No details. Just general vicinity.
Most of our projects over the next 12 months are all around Des Moines. Not traveling far.
@@MrPostFrame Theoretical, how far would you travel? We are in Indiana and haven't been super happy with any of our builder options.
I always wonder why people don't just keep running the ICF walls up spend another day on it, attach the rafters to the top sill on the ICF and be done. Cool though.
I live in Tornado Country in a cold climate so I'm doing my own ICF build in the next couple years hopefully. ICF ranch, with insulated concrete floor system, Hydronic in floor heat, do the basement in a mono pour so it is basically a hardened storm safe space. Stay down there when the bad weather is rolling in. Use a strapping system to tie the rafters to the top of the ICF walls. Over design the roof a little bit.
I was thinking about doing a ICF basement with a 16' post framed building on top. I haven't seen anyone online do it.
RR buildings mentioned doing that as a good way for a DIYer to build concrete footings for a post frame and may be cheaper than hiring out someone to do the concrete footings. He does a lot of post frames using concrete footing.
Could be done that way
The plywood strips are used to hold the forms that have been cut to size together since the grooves have been removed from the cut?
I so want you to build a project for me in WA!
It would be pretty cool if we could travel that far to build!
@@MrPostFrame The issue is time away from family but with enough crew you can hire & supervise plus hotel and travel expenses covered it’s not too bad. I traveled for years.
Is there a reason you are not doing wet set brackets for your posts?
greetings mr. paul; take it from someone that knows "memory does not improve with age, only wine".................g
haha true
Dou you place any waterproofing against the foam prior to backfill?
Yes a waterproofing membrane was added to the ICF wall.
Do you have a cold joint by pouring half depth then the top half
No. The first layer is still wet when you pour the second. The bottom layer sets up just enough that the strain on the forms from hydrologic pressure is reduced.
You didn't need more bracing on those walls?
Paul, is dry vs wet set post brackets a matter of choice or preference? Which is better?
I think it depends on span and how wide building is. Not sure hope Paul will chime in as this is how I'd like to do mine. I've heard drill in brackets shouldn't be used after I think 36' span after that wet set recommended could be wrong
?
How thick is the concrete inside the foam blocks?
6” or 8”?
Where can I get that kind of Lazer and what is the model number?
Would you do a cost breakdown ?
Yes, we will do some of those throughout the build process.
Do you waterproof the outside of ICF blocks?
Yes
It looked like you used a 3/4 x 4 piece of plywood to screw between two sections of ICF wall panel, but you only did it every do often. What was the purpose of applying the plywood pieces if you only used one or two over the entire length of a wall ?
only on the pieces of ICF that he had to cut short
🏴👍
Thanks for watching!
If these jobs go well enough you can spill for the actual forms and move beyond this as an albeit remarkable expedient. "No better way to sell a client than on the importance of building up when prices high for building materials." The extra $30,000 us dollars will be well worth that and then some 20-50 years later in doing this type of in effect commercial grade construction.
How come you didn't dig all of the dirt out?
This is a frost wall and there will be a slab that goes inside of it, no basement.
what size pipe did you put through the wall for the sewer drain?
I believe most houses are 4"
12:20 looks like your in a WW1 trench!
Haha yes
Why not a full basement
The expense would have been increased too far beyond budget. There's a lot more excavation, etc. needed.
Great job but that squeaky styrofoam would have driven me crazy 😂😂😂.
Haha it probably added to the already crazy we have going over here
Don't you ever wear a tool belt?Have your tape,fasteners,prybar,hammer etc?
Yep all the time
just a suggestion, there are dummies watching this and when you are talking about measurements, some of us would like to know why are you happy... a word or two would make us happy. keep up
Are you building a bomb shelter or a home for someone?
Haha just a home.
When you talk you should move your receiver so we can hear you and not have an anoying noise blasting at us
We're getting some mic upgrades next year to make it better!
Is this new project for you or for someone else.?
This is a new build for a client.
@15:37 That lap length looks to be 2d and not 15d, starting to doubt your ability to build proper construction.