Building a Post Frame Home | Waterproofing ICF Frost Wall + Porch Footings | Ep4
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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Thanks for stopping by our channel! We are self building our family of 5 a post frame barndominium in Iowa along with the life we’ve always dreamed of.
The goal of our channel is to inspire others to build their dream by providing education on construction and an in depth look at how we’ve gotten to this place.
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Winterset, IA 50273
#postframe #selfbuild #construction
I enjoy your work ethic and appreciate the Children being involved while building your home and the thought that you put into the quality of your home.
I am a retired finish Carpenter and am proficient in a lot of the trades
My Wife and I built my shop with 2x6 studs and 10 ft ceilings. A friend said that if I put peg boards on the walls I could hang a tool anywhere. I have peg boards on three side. It is 24x32 feet and is absolutely square. We put central heat and air, a bathroom , sink, is well insulated and has florescent lights. I have 42 Electrical Receptacles and can plug an electrical tool in any where.
I am 77 years old, retired and still enjoy watching quality craftsmen such as you perform .
Thank you very much for watching and sharing your story. It's awesome hearing
Good catch on the flat sewer line. I think you misstated the required fall- 1 1/4" is the recommended fall for a 10 foot joint of pipe, which is how cast iron sewer pipe was sold. But that can be stated several ways- as a "2% fall" or "1/8" per foot" are common. Too much fall will have the liquid run off from the toilet paper and create a pipe blockage in time. Hoping your Christmas in your new home was grand! Best to you and Em! FR
1/8 per foot slope is 1% grade; 8 X 12 = 96 or 96 one-eighths in one foot. You are correct in that over 2% there is a good chance of liquid leaving solids behind. Grading work is usually done in feet and tenths of a foot. A 10 foot piece of pipe at 1% changes 12 inch/ft X 10 ft = 120 inches X 1% = 120 X 0.01 = 1.2 inches which is closer to 1 3/16 inches. Grading in dirt, gravel, sand, etc. is usually + or - 1/10, which is close enough.
@@royreynolds108 My comments were from experience in the field as a plumber for 35 years. The i/16' quibble you are on about is possible to work out, if a $1500 lazer transit can be had to sight it and hold plumb on it. Soil pipe was, for about 50 years only available in cast iron in '10 lengths, so the "standard" 1 1/4' per joint was often used. And later, after PVC had come in, I always checked it in a couple of places along it's length, as it would bend, where iron pipe doesn't. Imma suggest you edit some of your math- or stick to using a level that has "quarter bubble lines" inscribed on it, as your math skills would really suck running a set of transit lines. No set of "alternate facts" I am aware of make a flow level change of 12' over a ten foot length a long term proposition. It's 2%, straight down or offset down at 45%- and there are "rules of the craft" about that, too. FR
Been waiting for next post on this one. Curious to options on how exterior of icf will be hidden via stone or stucco. Could be I'm confused and possible that siding will come down over it but the post bracket would be offset in wall to make up Styrofoam thickness. Can someone answer what normally done
Quality work.
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Good video!
Can not remove it
Looks good. That bituthene sealer looks expensive but it should heat well. Looking forward to the rest of the build
How did you determine the height of the foundation based on the grade of the land? Is it critical to get right or do you just build up around the house on the final grade to get a slope for water to run away from house?
I hope your weather is holding. We are -22 air temp here in NW MN with a bunch of snow.
Winter has arrived so I suspect it is tough sledding out in Iowa right now. No pun intended. Love your attention to detail Paul. Another great video.
Great job Paul! Looking good so far.
Do you travel to mn?
Great work as always! Thanks for all the hard work!
Great videos Paul!! Learning so much from you. If you ever have time can you do a quick pros and cons video between building on a slab such as this house, vs. the technique you did on your own house? And why to choose one technique over the other. I am currently designing my barndominium in Colorado based on the technique you did on your own house, now I am thinking twice!! haha. Thanks.
We will actually be covering that in our build group next month! www.patreon.com/mrpostframe
That perfection is for releasing the hydro static pressure on the basement walls not for crawl spaces
Thank you. I love your presentations. I have never worked construction. Actually never really worked, unless you call sitting behind a desk or steering-wheel work. I have recently learned what a hammer is, and now plan to learn about the different types of hammers. I might even go to The Dollar Store and buy one. All these fancy cordless electric tools scare me with that whizzing sound.
Love your videos. Guess if I want to have a build, should move from Oregon to Iowa. Hope your home is finishing up good.
YOUR WORK IS VERY IMPRESSIVE, YOUR CUSTOMERS SHOULD BE EXTREMELY HAPPY AT YOUR ATTENTION TO DETAIL, YOUR VIDEOS ARE VERY ENTERTAINING AND ANYONE BUILDING A HOUSE SHOULD FIND THIS CHANNEL VALUABLE. GOOD LUCK GUYS ‼️ HAPPY HOLIDAYS 🎄‼️🎅. Vinny 🇺🇸
whats the point in all that stuff?its got to be five times as much as concrete and tar
Can someone explain the point of a ICF foundation under a Post Frame instead of just pouring footings with wet set brackets?
It was the build site. There was a previous foundation and soil that made a continuous frost wall a better option.
Our preference is column footings with wet set brackets
@@MrPostFrame thank you Sir
Awesome work! You are detailed, systematic, and practical. I enjoy your channel.
How do you like your JCB equipment? Not often do I see it on a job site. Looks like you have several attachments that are working for you.
A quick question…. Why do you feel the need to put drain tile around a slab? With a basement I get it but not on a slab.
I really enjoy your content!
It's cheap insurance to get the water away from the foundation. Water feeds mold.
PLEASE add music to the time lapse sections… besides that LOVE the content keep up the good work!
Got a link to the dimple membrane??
I see you are very meticulous. i really like that
greetings mr. paul; it looks like you should have asked for some new work gloves for Christmas. ms. emily would have given you some. happy new year and be careful out there working.......................g
Hey Paul, looking good, it was really nice weather for you the last few weeks to get all the dirt work you needed to get done! Now the cold snap is coming this weekend. Where are you building this home? I assume it's not far from your place?
Reminds me of the rules of plumbing. S**t flows down hill, payday is on Friday, and don’t bite your fingernails.
Ciao , come mai non hai messo nessuna protezione tra la guaina isolante e la ghiaia ? Non c'è il rischio che le pietre buchino l'isolamento e possa bagnarsi il muro ?
Yes (wink) we know what DOESN'T flow uphill (wink). On a more sanitary note: Happy New Year Paul and family!
Is it clay soil?
How many foundation slabs that have been insulated are having bad cracking issues? Is this a problem or are some builders or people not doing it correctly? Thanks!
All foundations crack just the nature of concrete. Sounds like you have heard maybe some stories about bad foundations with big cracks?
@@adambaker3920 Yes, concrete will do two things, dry and crack. I am talking specifically about slabs that have been insulated underneath apparently cracking more or bigger than non-insulated slabs. That is what I’m hearing and asking.
@@Prorex1911 I've never seen that be the case. I have a heated slab that wasn't able to be cut because some pex floated up so I was afraid to cut it. Has cracked but all are mild and really not many. As with plastic or insulation, the concrete cures differently than when it contacts the dirt. The moisture has to come up and out, but I think that's almost better than the dirt sucking it out.
@@adambaker3920 yes, I agree. I was thinking that the guy who was telling me this had something else go wrong with his/their pours rather than the insulation being the cause.
Hey Paul, you know what would be cool to add to your videos and not much more of a pain in ass, when your describing the footing and floor detail, it would be cool if you could show the detail drawings on the prints so we can get a better visualization of what your talking about. I know what your talking about but seeing the print detail and comparing it to what the reality is , makes it easier to see how good your work is, your contentiousness to detail.
I'm sure you have a reason for it, but why is the foundation so deep?
Why doesn't anyone cover the drain pipe anymore? Either with the sock or fabric just folded around. It is a little extra work, but if it keeps the pipe from filling with sand and dirt, why not take the effort
I may be wrong, but socks are much more likely to simply get clogged with silt (especially in clay heavy areas). Once those are clogged the drain is very ineffective. Where's is you have no sock and just gravel, you may get silt in the drain, but it will stay capable of drain for much longer. Meaning that a small amount of silt clogs up drain socks, but a bare pipe can handle it for a very long time before it clogs up the 4 inch pipe.
The quality of your work is incredible, I really want to discuss this though. I feel like half or 2/3rds of this work/cost/labor could have been saved for a equal or even superior product. I am not knocking anything you've done, I just feel obligate to speak up if I think I know something to help. This is just a frost wall footing? no basement? crawlspace nothing?
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how did the county pass the septic then.... once again your tax dollars at work