WOW, what a great video. I'm not a Mechanic, but do most of my own repair work if I can figure it out. I'm so glad I watched this. I've had to replace the wire (splice out) going to my pto clutch twice. Husq YTH 2348 Finally found the round holding rod coming out and allowing the clutch to spin and tear everything loose. The hole in the clutch plate must be wallowed out. I put it back in good and tighted the rod which runs to the outside of the frame very tight, but it did it again. I saw on another video the techn said the ohms should be at least 2.5 across the clutch leads. His new clutch checked 3.1. I checked mine and it was .002 which is close to zero so I'm changing it out. I had started hearing a loud noise over the past couple months and kept using it. It was probably that clutch going bad. Anyway, a new clutch it is and I'm glad to see a re-design on the hold down bar vs a round rod to prevent it from spinning. You are a great instructor on your videos. You put the info down on the lower shelf so people like me (who can work with their hands and are mechanically inclined) can understand what you are saying. If I can see you do it, usually I can do it. Thanks again. By the way, I'm no spring chicken. I'm 68 and can still do it. It's the gettin up and down part that's hard. lol
Having a problem with the mower blades not engaging when the PTO is pulled up. Going to try to troubleshoot the switch and clutch this weekend and the videos on RUclips have been very helpful with diagnosing this issue
listen to him he knows his stuff good. But my fix is turning my pto mowers into cable engagement mowers no electrical bullshit no pto clutch that you know will break again thats why John deere and craftsmen made some of their mower's with those mine wont have them for to much longer
Wait, I watch your camping channel! Now my riding mower is acting up. Small world. Mine was doing something similar, fuse blowing, PTO not engaging and disengaging well. Very glad I watched this because I thought my PTO switch was the problem. Now I know to look at the clutch too, so thank you.
Kudos on your production value Foxboss9. It's so frustrating trying to decipher bad audio and/or badly lit or badly framed videos. Yours is not only helpful and to the point, but also a pleasure to watch. Thank you.
Thanks! The bracket that mounts the front axle and deck front yolk to the frame on my 1986 Bolens GT180 made an "excursion" when the nuts finally stripped off of all four 35 year old bolts. And of course it pulled one of the wires pulled out of the clutch assembly in doing so. Hopefully I can shove it back in to fix it if it's just at a connector. It looks like it pulled out cleanly. Or maybe I can find a new wire assembly. It's still almost new, you know, lots of life left in the old girl. Good enough that yeah, I might have to go with a new clutch if necessary. Oh, by the way, I have always engaged the clutch at about half throttle. 15 years ago I had to tighten the three bolts about a third of a turn. Once. That's it, with 925 hours on it. So don't do it at full bore.
Nice one Foxboss9, my ride on mower blades would engage at first than after a while if you turned off the blades they wouldn't re-engage. So I tested for power supply all ok, I re set the clutch gap and Bingo, she's running as good as gold.
Good video made by an intelligent man with a good sense for video presentation. My PTO quietly died while mowing. After spending some time with the multi meter, pulling the ignition and PTO switches, finding solid ground locations, and getting random results, I started to pay more attention to the small melted spot on the PTO switch receptacle - not the plug itself. Then with the key ON and my foot on the seat to provide "operator presence", I was able to turn the clutch off and on by jiggling the connected PTO switch and plug together. But I sure wouldn't replace the entire harness, so I'll probably just bend and jigger the copper in the plug. I may take a look at how replaceable the plug is. Thanks for the inspiring vid.
Just a super great job at presenting a video that explains in depth the possible problems and the correct procedures for testing and rectifying. You are to be applauded for just a super presentation
Great video, Thank you. However the mower that I am working on has sat outside for a few years and I believe the clutch has rusted up and just not working.
On my 3rd mower took me hours to figure out were the blade engagement cable goes i couldn't see how it threaded through but then i figured it out after about 3 hours
Welp all done. The hardest thing was getting the connector undone to the clutch, the 2nd hardest thing was getting the drive belt onto the last pulley. I zip tied part of the belt to the pulley and I made a tool so I could turn the pulley with a ratchet and with the tool it was easy. I like my Ariens max zoom mower.
Brilliant. I need to replace the main drive belt of a Snapper SPX17542, which looks identical to this model, and was wondering what I'd have to do about the wire to the PTO clutch as it was preventing me from removing the belt. I guess I'd just have to disconnect it, and the connector is probably in the engine space. Now I don't have to remove the clutch from the engine. Thanks!
your channel is very helpful. I have a Cub Cadet ZT1 42. the wiring and switch checks out good. When I engage the electric clutch, the mower deck will not disengage. I have to shut the mower off to shut deck off. When I restart the mower, the deck is often still engaged, but not all the time. is my clutch bad?
Foxboss9 thanks for your help. Let me tell you what happen . First I went and bought a new PTO switch and an new clutch. But for some reason I must have gotten a bad PTO switch. So I did what you said and jumped the switch that I thought was brand new only to find out that it was bad, My clutch Kicked in and that was all she wrote. So I went and bought a new switch and problem solved. Thanks for you help. I am taking this serious and getting certified as a small engine mechanic. It's nice to know that I can count on you to be there. THANKS
Fabulous work and great explanation! I'm having this PTO clutch issue w/ my 20 year old Regent and this was a tremendous help. Unfortunately I maybe forced to get rid of my tractor if I can't get the adjustment to fix the issue. Keep up the good work.
Converted my JD F 930 electric clutch to cable idler pulley, now smooth engagement and no slippage. No more silly dual coil springs to maintain belt tension. Electric clutch is the worst idea, period 💪
Very detailed video. I for one can appreciate it! Pretty sure my clutch is out on mine gloms through the troubleshooting steps you mentioned. I did however take the switch apart, broke it apart more or less lol so I can tell that the contacts were touching and verified that it was still good. Thanks again
Recently, my Craftsman DYT4000 (B&S engine) started to take much longer for blades to reach full spin speed once switch is pulled. Used to take only 1 second, now takes up to 5 seconds! New belt, tensioner, spindles and pulleys. Only thing it could be now is the PTO clutch is slippin? It's gotta be right? That would cause the blades to take longer to reach full spin speeds
did you use an impact to tighten this as well? I heard you're just supposed to grip the HEX nut and tighten the long bolt to torque specs? Thanks for the help. I'm about to replace mine on my broadmoor.
I am not sure if my clutch is bad or not. It work great all last season, shapened blades, put deck back on, tried it for the first time this season and PTO clicks, but dont seem to sping blades fast enough to cut grass, had to use push mower. So it does engage but doesnt load the engine hardly at all, and blades dont spin fast enough to cut. I took the belt and blades spin easily so It has to be something in the PTO. Its on a 48" JD D-140 with electric pto. Any suggestions appreciated. Im on a fixed income and can not aford to try this and that and hope for the best, or take it to a repair shop if I dont have to. Thanks
Adjust clutch if needed... Look for a stuck belt tensioner that is allowing belt to slip on pulleys.. Make sure belt isn't in bad shape, like oil on it or wore out
I got a john deere 285 pto doing the same thing that would keep shutting down and I found a double yellow wire that was loose on the key switch. Replace the key switch and found that was the problem now it works great.
Awesome "mytractorforum" pointed this out to me. Lucky mule was detached for years. It's from a 1988 JD 332 dealer wants $650. I found a aftermarket coil pack on ebay & bearing for $200. Here are my quotes from tractorforum. "The problem with the resistance being .002 ohms is that it is drawing more than twice the amount of current, which heats up wires, wire insulation, VR and draws on the battery. It may work fine now, but you may just drive it till there smoke or flames rolling out from under the plastic hood"
My Craftsman got to the point where the PTO would engage with the mower cold but if you disengaged after cutting a while and tried to turn back on it would not work until you let mower cool. Yesterday it quit while I was cutting and doesn't operate at all now. Haven't had a chance to look further though.
Adjust air gap on PTO. There are three nuts that sandwich the plates at a certain distance. Definitely sounds to me as that Gap has gotten greater as the clutch has worn this is a common adjustment.
I bought a new PTO and the instructions say to recheck the torque settings on the bolt holding it on after engaging the PTO several times and even after a hundred times. A hundred times ? Crap , I bet nobody ever does after a hundred times and I doubt I will either. What are your thoughts on that ? Nice video by the way and thanks.
Put it this way it’s only torqued down once wherever any mower is originally built at factory. I would check the torque settings maybe after engaging it once or twice but then it should be good honestly
Hello brother all this started with my tractor after changing the belt not really the correct belt that goes on it, so I just had to add a little more tension Could this have caused my switch problem because belt too tight? I've loosened just waiting on new switch? Ty
Very good info. My problem is when I start my JD 190C the blades come on. I have checked the PTO Switch it checks out . Does that mean my clutch is bad or a safety switch is bad? Thanks for any advice.
Think mines still good something from my flip switch shuts the mower off I took the clutch off checked the clutch with power in the wires and its good But my metal switch is good to its not a pull switch what your taking about but still does the same thing my switch is being grounded out some place
I have a 2008 simplicity broadmoor 20 hp. The problem I am having is that when I get into thick grass the blades are slowing down. the motor rpm is not changing and the belts are not slipping. I beleive the problem is that the clutch seems to be slipping under load. How can I fix this
Best visual of everything I've seen yet. The connector... that they gave you the jumper for to connect it... to change the drive belt for my sabre 2254 had to be disconnected. That was more than a bear to get it disconnected. I had pliers, screwdrivers & a lot of muscle. I may have squeezed it so tight i may have damaged the wires. It connected back together just fine, but now the tractor doesn't start. It starts using starting fluid, but only for about 2 seconds. Could damaged wiring for the PTO cause the tractor to not stay running?
If the seat switch was bad..wouldn't the mower fail to start.?..rider on. key on. pto on. I have 12v to clutch..ohms 3.6..but has continuity unplugged.this bad?
How in the heck do you undo the connector that the two green wires go into? Edit: it was tough but I finally got the connector apart. The connector shell is slightly messed up though. Had to pry it against itself with a screwdriver.
I have craftsman T110 riding mower and my blade won't engage. I already replaced cable clutch because i ran over something in my yard that cut the original. I tried starting it and blade still didn't engage. I noticed my deck belt was loose and worn so replaced it. Still won't engage. Help plz
Great video. I just fired up my mower from winter storage and I noticed my pot starts but it seems slow. Slow to start and my blades turn slow. Like their labouring to turn. I pulled my deck off and my pulleys are fine on the deck. Could my clutch be seizing? would that make the blades turn slow
If all tensioners and springs are articulating and tightening the belt then you may need to adjust the electric Clutch air gap... There are instructions online how to do that... Usually after sitting all winter it's a belt tension thing
Ok Foxboss i tested the power from the battery to the PTO switch harness I had power. but i don't know how to test the connection from the harness to the connector that hooks up to the connector on the PTO clutch. I put the leads on the two wires the black/white and the black one but i didn't get any reading. I don't know if that was the proper way to test. I also turned on the motor and put the switch back on. And I engaged the switch and put a clamp on the seat safety switch. I just bought the switch so i hope it's good.
One side of the tester will go to ground and the probe will need to go into the backside of the switch harness while it is connected.. Not knowing for sure which wire is going to be the hot wire with the switch on you'll need to place the Probe on each wire individually and find which one becomes hot when the switch is on and cold when off..
It looks identical to the clutch on my gth2250 with B&S 22hp., but my anti-rotation tab was part of the frame. I have to try it, new tractor isn't in budget.
I keep snapping (smoked the last one in 5 minutes) jd l120 ..all bearings are GOOD . CLUTCH 2 YEARS OLD. Have any idea what is going on?? At wits end!! Thank you!
My Scag 52” hydro works fine until I turn it off then it won’t restart until it cools down. However, after this last time of running then shutting it off she won’t cut on at all! It appears all the switches are working fine. I’m on clutch number 2. The engine leaks oil and it runs down on the clutch. My question, will the oil cause the clutch to burn out?
If your still monitoring this, I hope you won't mind answering a question for me? I have a Simplicity Conquest mower and I've had problems with the mower shutting on and off just from hitting bumps. I've played around with the wires and found wiggling the wires will make the mower run off and on. So I'm pretty sure my wiring got a short and from the looks of it is in the plug itself that plugs into the clutch. Now on the plug that's not on the clutch side, but on the tractor side has what looks like a resistor added to the plug that is hooked to both wires on the one plug. Which seems wrong to me that it would be hooked up like that being I would think when you turn on the mower the 2 wires on that plug would both get electricity at the same time. is it made that way on purpose or is that something someone added somewhere along the line? Any ideas what I'm talking about here? Really appreciate your help!
+Gale Ghostrider The resistor is to eliminate electrical feedback from the PTO when energized. The PTO will only have power going to one of the wires when turned on.. You may have a bad seat switch. When you hit bumps your butt will come off the seat slightly causing the switch to think you have got up off the tractor and as a safety it turns off the blades.. This is something that use to be a problem with brand new tractors that had operators that were less than 120lbs or short legged operators that had the seat adjusted all the way up. Even if you are neither of those two types of drivers I would still look at the seat switch as a definite possibility of failure.. good luck
My Dad and i have an ingersoll 1418 and it just resently started making a clicking noise we both think its the electric clutch? what are your thougts on that?
I lost ground to clutch while i was cutting lawn, does the clutch supply the ground or is it the relay this mower was sitting outside for a year and a half it was given to me i have spend $85 so far with new belts and pto switch and oil change, i was cutting lawn for about 10 min when blade stop working.
Thanks for this video. Last year I went to use my mower and found the battery dead. I tried to jump it with one of those small battery jumper and I think it burnt out my pto switch. I order4d one from Amazon but it didn't work. I ordered a clutch from Sears and it would not slide onto the shaft. The mower sat for a year and I was ready to sell it for cheap. I watched your video and rigged up a bypass switch like you did. The mower deck functions again. I ordered a replacement switch from Sears Craftsman and I saved myself a couple of grand on a replacement mower. Now everyone thinks I am a know it all fix it man! Haha!
My John Deere LX178 lawn tractor runs and when I turn off the PTO after cutting the grass I cannot cut it back on until the next day or I guess to The Cools down it's a 2006, Would it be safe to assume that is my clutch!!! I DO HAVE A PTO SW
What I would do is once it's hot disconnect the harness at the PTO and try to apply power directly to see if it will engage. Of course if it does while it's hot then you don't have a PTO problem it's something else.
How do you lock the crankshaft so you can torque the shaft bolt to 45-50 ft-lb when reinstalling the PTO? The manual for my old Broadmoor says to install the drive belt to the shaft pulley before installing the PTO unit. This means I cannot use a strap wrench to hold the shaft still.
Okay, folks... I figured you need to access the bolt on the other end of the crankshaft -- at the top of the engine. Time didn't permit removing the metal cover so I cut off the inner-most portion of the plastic cover to access the bolt with a socket and breaker bar. (I strung some quality twist ties across the new opening to limit grass from entering.) Although I hadn't known it, my impact wrench had almost gotten the PTO tight enough. Another few lb-ft on the bottom bolt with the top bolt firmly held did the trick. PTO now runs well.
Having the switch issue it's 18 years old so going to replace both the clutch and switch... I like the MLB pendant... Thats also my team as I'm also from NE Ohio
Hey I have a Craftsman GT300. The pulley for the blades spins freely when the engine is off. I disconnected the wiring for the clutch and started the engine, but the pulley spins. Do you think the clutch is bad in this case? I don't have the mower deck for it yet. Thanks!
The pulley is supposed to spin freely until you engage the the pulley is supposed to spin freely until the electric is applied to the PTO. Then the pulley locks up
@@Foxboss9 Thanks for the reply. My concern was that the blade belt pulley was spinning by the engine running (meaning the clutch was engaged) but the clutch had no power. I expected the pulley to not rotate strictly by the engine that case as in another video I saw. However I know the clutch is not engaged because I can move the pulley easily by hand when the engine is off. I will do some resistance and voltage checks in the morning. Thanks!
I have a lt1018 cub cadet tractor i mow with when i lower my deck down to 2 or 3 i loos rpms but when i pick up my deck my rpms come back up what would cause it
my Zoro turn zero it blew the fuse once ran great the rest of the season til the end mower started shutting off by its self. This season same thing now it won't start at all. Also can you show me how to replace a choke cable I am having to do it manually. How much do batteries run? Thanks! First time working on a mower.....
I am fixing to replace the clutch on my John Deere LA 150. The bracket broke and the clutch started to spend which tore up the wiring. My problem is this: When I install the new clutch I have to find a hot wire to go to the safety switch under the seat. Right now I have put a jumper from the old clutch to the safety switch. When I install the new clutch it comes with a wiring harness just for the clutch. Do you have any ideas on how I can run a hot wire to the safety switch for the seat after I install the new clutch with the new wiring harness ? The wiring harness is the one just for the clutch, not the complete wiring harness for this mower. Thanks need your thoughts and ideas.
Robin Meads Sorry, you'll need to get a wiring diagram and trace it out ...no real easy way to rewire it unless you buy a new harness or patch up the old wiring.. good luck..
Jerry Reid thanks. What do you mean it vibrates? Does it vibrate when you drive it? Does it vibrate when you turn on the blades? Or does it vibrate just when it's running only? As far as common wisdom would dictate that something you did while putting on the new belt caused the vibration. If you removed any pulleys you have to make sure that they are reinstalled correctly. Usually anything that I've worked on that had a vibration means that something that spins or goes around is out of balance. So either the belt that you installed has a flat spot on it or it is Twisted, or something else is causing the vibration that has nothing to do with your most recent repair.
I have a 2019 Toro Timecutter and when I engage my PTO it slows down the engine and even to the point at times it will cut off the engine. What do you think my problem is?
The switch will fail a lot unless a diode and resistor are put in the circuit to suppress the spark when the clutch is deactivated. This could also be the reason why the fuse blows for an unknown reason. Unless spark suppression is used when the coil opens a very high voltage is induced just like a Magnito coil when the points are opened.
David Ward I know that is a very common feature that is added to a lot of the John Deere mowers especially the walk behinds however, this is the way it was Wired from the factory. It only failed the one time. Makes me believe that the harness has a diode and it that I'm not aware of. Looking at the schematics I do not see it anywhere though.
i bought a new pto clutch and a new switch but the clutch still doesn't engage the blades. I noticed the bolt that holds that pto clutch in place. Is this suppose to happen.
Hello, my craftsman ztl7000 just stopped on me while i was cutting. It starts and runs but does not move forward or backwards. It is about 4 yrs old and in nice condition. The belts are fine. Does the PTO switch also control the hydraulics as well?Any help is appreciated. Thanks
The PTO switch does NOT control anything but the PTO.... Your problem lies in the transaxle/hydrostat..... if all the belts are good and the fluid level is correct(check manual for level) Then you either have a Dump valve issue(make sure it is in the engage position by moving in and out a few times) or the transaxle/hydrostat is needing replaced or rebuilt
Awesome video! Any tips for a parking brake not disengaging? (no hydrolics/power steering, or Forward/reverse) I have a Simplicity Prestige, 23hp Hydro W/Ps Rmo giving me a headache.
I have a different lawn mower but Mine will let me use it like if i use it for Hour or so have go get more gas in lawn mower go to garage shut it off when i go to try mow again wont let me but if i wait hour or so it will let me almost like gets 2 hot or something needs cool off so I believe its the Clutch
I have a sears model 917.275520 which is a 42 inch deck with a brigs 23 hp engine. It has a manual engagement lever for the deck, if I were to change to a electric pto do I have to change the belt also or does it use the same belt?
Jimmy Drew most likely the belt will be close but you also need a powered PTO deck as there is a tensioner that is usually missing on manual decks compared to the ones that are equipped on power PTO models.. I can honestly say that I have never converted a manual to a power deck before... I have never found a reason to convert because I firmly believe that a manual deck is better... I know that some of sears manual engagement decks are known for "sticking" but when you have issues it's usually curd Buy lubricating and keeping the deck clean or at worse replacing a couple of components that may only cost $40 tops..... However, when you have an issue with a power PTO model those electric clutches can run upwards to $400. And even the cheap ones can be hovering around the $150 mark. Electric pto's are just like throttle body fuel injection when it first became available on cars, in that, they are a dream when they work and a nightmare when they don't.
FoxBoss, I NEED your help. I removed my PTO Clutch from a Yazoo/Kees mower and I cannot find a replacement that specifies the size that I need. I Measured the pulley to be 6 1/4" OD. Are most PTO clutches the same? It came off of a 15hp Kawasaki. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
+Jason Michael Sorry I am not sure what size you need. The reason is not all clutches are the same.. You need to get hold of a dealer and get a part number. Try this link.. www.yazookees.com/node4056.aspx good luck
I have a cub cadet slt 1554 and my PTO would randomly stop spinning blades. Then the blades would not engage at all. Getting power to the switch and to the plug. Any ideas? Want to avoid replacing the PTO clutch if possible.
Well you can try a new $20 dollar switch but if the wires going to the PTO are damaged/frayed or if the PTO is bad then the switch will need replaced again, and you will still need to fix the problem... There are no hard fast fixes when it comes to electrical issues, you have to troubleshoot the circuits from the battery, through all the safety switches, until you finally get to testing the PTO clutch... it sucks and that's why a lot of mechanics don't like to troubleshoot electrical.
I don't have that type of money just for a cheap clutch that'll just burn out again i am gonna switch all mine over back to cable engagement you push the lever up to engage the blades is how im gonna do my 3 pto mowers but on the old gray craftsmen i can swap out the steering make a new battery holder for it because the gas tanks under the seat and right now the battery is in the way of any engagement lever
I traced the power wire (constant hot/positive) that was coming into the switch.. I also traced the wire that would normally send power (when switched on) down to the PTO. I then "back probed" into those two wires on the PTO harness with two homemade leads that were connected to a aftermarket 15amp pull switch.
I ment my Dad and i have an ingersoll 4018 and it just resently started making a clicking noise we both think its the electric clutch? what are your thoughts on that?
My Cub Cadet Z-Force 60L PTO clutch fell off. It was so hot it was steaming and too hot to touch. I ordered a replacement. Haven't found any specific videos to make sure I can install it correctly. Any suggestions?
Make sure there is not a missing crankshaft spacer between the clutch and bottom of the engine.. Check for parts diagrams that show if one was originally installed... Make sure clutch is lined up and held in place correctly with rod or tab that keeps it from spinning when engaged... Make sure to not overtighten but make sure it won't come loose either... That's all I can think of...
Mine HAS the electric clutch which I WANT TO REMOVE and NOT replace, I will be using the mower as a puller of a separate cutter, I am stripping the mower completely down to refurbish. The separate pulley ABOVE the electric clutch will remain. ANY suggestions on WHAT TYPE, model, name of puller to remove the Electric clutch?
There is not a specific puller. You can use a 3 jaw or 4 jaw puller BUT, PTOs don't do so well with pullers because they are flimsy on the outside perimeter and the puller will not have anything "solid" to grab on to. You need to disassemble the PTO as much as possible. You may be able to get "down" to the rigid center that is "stuck" to the engines output shaft.
Also consider this, the PTO is keeping the pulley that you want to retain, tight and mounted correctly. A PTO, as long as it spins freely, is not a "drain" on the engine and doesn't hurt anything being on the engine keeping the drive pulley mounted in place..HOWEVER. It may be in the way when trying to change a drive belt.
love your videos, still have problem. pto switch burned up. i replaced clutch because it has 860 hours i replaced pto switch and new key switch and new relay. fired up pto worked for 15 minutes shut it off and wouldnt come back on. its a 2005 cub slt 1554. i disconnected pto plug checked for power and if i ground my test light to the frame i have power with switch pulled out. but have no pwer if i ground my test light to the second wire in the connection. please help what is the other wire for? its white.
I am not 100% sure as I had to trace all my wires to find where they came from BUT, it may be a safety switch wire.. If the PTO switch is still good then the majority of the problems with PTO's not engaging is safety switches not working or being engaged fully and not allowing the "all clear" signal to be sent to the PTO switch to allow it to engage the Clutch.. Also, make sure engine and battery have good grounds(usually not an issue though)
thanks for replying. your probably right about the white wire because i do have a pto indicater light that doesnt work, i looked at schematic white wire goes to relay. i dont know if it is indicater light is causing this. i did what you said in other video on reverse switch.i cut the red wire and wire nutted the end. i also bypassed seat switch and i pulled the break switch and tested it and was fine. now with that said i just unplugged connection on pto. i ran jumper wires from hot wire from the connector to hot wire on pto side of connector and ran another jumper wires from frame to the other wire on pto side of connector and everything worked i just mowed 2 hrs shut if off and on again just fine. whats your thought my good man. thank you
I am not sure on that, I have a tough time not having hands on when diagnosing eletrical.. at this point I think that running it bypassed might be the way to go..
The air gap should be .012, I have with worn PTO'S closed the gap to .008 , I don't recommend going any tighter, it will cause the PTO to NOT disengage.
I have a troy bilt tb2450, the pto clutch assembly just buzzes, and has a burned smell. it tries to turn, but just buzzes, could it be burned out, or is there an adjustment?
I,have a question sir, about my pto I loose power when I engage my pto ..its a briggs, 23horse, on a 08 husquvarina. When I tried to find rhe problem I noticed the pully was hard to,turn by hand even,with belts off . Is this, normal?
There should be some resistance to turn the pulley by hand with no belt attached but not a lot. I'm not sure what you mean by lose power? If you are having your engine completely shut down or turn off then that's a safety switch issue. However if you're just experiencing less power being transmitted from the engine you could have something wrong with the PTO or in the deck spindles that's causing a drag. Don't roll out that the engine is needing attention. When I work for Sears I used to have customers complain that they had the lack of power whenever they would engage their deck thinking that there was something wrong with the belt drive or the deck itself only to have me come out and tell them that they had a blown head gasket or a valve guide come loose and cost the pushrods to fall out or bend and was only running on one cylinder. The big twin Briggs engines like you have seemed to have plenty of power but when they really get taxed with running something as big as a 46 or even bigger deck it shows the weakness in only having one cylinder working. Good luck
@@Foxboss9 thank you, for the reply, Ive checked the deck spindles and all the parts that spin turn pull and loosen..lol, but the head gasket, I didn't notice it . but I do,now I see oil now ive checked , now I can get this thing running like a 23hp should not like its mowing 2feet of grass..lol thank you
I just checked my PTO Switch on my Husqvarna yth2348. It shows a reading of "00.4" in the OFF position and "00.4-00.7" in the ON position (depending on which terminals you test). The problem I am having is that when I have the mower running and I pull the PTO lever out to engage the clutch (Brand New clutch) the engine dies. I even unplugged the clutch and the engine still dies when I pull out the PTO knob.................Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
@@Foxboss9 I have the same issue but my seat safety switch is reading good. What safty's are also in the PtO switch? I have a 1999 craftsman 20 hp Kohler vtwin.
what about if the clutch is kicking in and out? Would you think that would be a switch issue? Mine runs and then after a min or so the blades start cutting on and off. It makes the whole lawnmower shake like crazy then the blades will almost stop.
i had the same problem on my john deere x140 lawn mower, it was the PTO switch which has melted on the inside, after replacing the switch, the lawn mower works again
I ment it makes a clicking noise even when the pto isn't engaged we both think its the electric clutch. You can here it clicking when you start the tractor and i know damn well it wont start if the pto is engaged when you drive it you can here it. what are your thoughts?
started my craftsman 16 hp green ride on mower today,and something is stuck. can't roll it. stalls under load of blades or drive train. don't sound like cut off switch thing. a link to a video on that would be great. i haven't seen one yet.
immrnoidall I don't have a video on anything like that. Check to make sure that your belts are moving freely. The fact that it it stalls when a load is put on it by either the blades or the drivetrain makes me think it is not belt Related but always good to check. Anytime I've had a mower in my shop in the past that stalls under any kind of a load whatsoever has always been engine power related. Unless the transaxle is locked up or the brake is stuck. Or, the spindles on the deck or froze up. Both of those situations though when it stall the engine necessarily it would just burn up the corresponding belt that was trying to power the thing that was stuck. So again, going back to the fact that both things make the engine stall without burning up a belt makes me think that it's a engine power issue. But the easiest thing to check is the belts just to make sure before you move forward with diagnosing the engine. Good luck.
can't roll it with the trans disengaged. i took the battery out last night and i can now get to the trans axle pullies after lunch with the family. noticed the deck has some huge rust holes so the project just got much bigger.
immrnoidall check to make sure that the break is not stuck on. That is a common issue. While laying on the ground behind the mower reach up on the right hand side of the transaxle and find the rod that runs to the brake pedal and just wiggle it to make sure that the mechanism is free. If that is free then check to make sure the belt has not jumped off and jammed itself causing the drive pulley to be stuck. If those two things are freed and it still won't move then you have something internal in the transaxle that went bad. However, that is most likely not the case. The rusty deck, that's a whole other story. Could be that the blades are physically hitting something underneath causing them not to turn. Again good luck
thanks my switch under the seat was not hooked up. an ongoing problem is the alt light comes on when the PTO is on after it has been on for a while. Cub Cadet 1440
There may be the slightest chance that there might be a set screw that is through the side of the PTO collar that might need backed off but that is very rare
+Numa Newbern The standard pulleys they put on non-pto mowers get stuck all the time. They call those regular pulleys "stack pulleys". Stack pulleys that are stuck can sometimes be removed by penetrate sprayed on top of the pulley in a small puddle and letting it soak for many days. But most time it is heated or cut off and replaced.. In your case you cannot really heat enough without the chance of damaging the PTO electrical. and cutting off defeats the purpose of saving but can be done if replacing. you could try to disassemble the PTO on the engine til it gets down to a smaller collar that would make it easier to cut(again only if replacing) or try PB Blaster spray .. No easy answer though..good luck
I'm having a problem with my blades. They start turning fine. But once you get into any grass it will cause the blades to slow and then stop. Could it be my pto clutch?
Brand new belt. From John Deere dealer. We checked all pulleys and spindle housings. And blades. The only other thing we could figure is the pto clutch may be going out and getting weak.
make sure the air gap is set correctly on the PTO other than that make sure applied voltage isn't dropping off for some reason it should stay a constant voltage around 12 at the PTO
WOW, what a great video. I'm not a Mechanic, but do most of my own repair work if I can figure it out. I'm so glad I watched this. I've had to replace the wire (splice out) going to my pto clutch twice. Husq YTH 2348 Finally found the round holding rod coming out and allowing the clutch to spin and tear everything loose. The hole in the clutch plate must be wallowed out. I put it back in good and tighted the rod which runs to the outside of the frame very tight, but it did it again. I saw on another video the techn said the ohms should be at least 2.5 across the clutch leads. His new clutch checked 3.1. I checked mine and it was .002 which is close to zero so I'm changing it out. I had started hearing a loud noise over the past couple months and kept using it. It was probably that clutch going bad. Anyway, a new clutch it is and I'm glad to see a re-design on the hold down bar vs a round rod to prevent it from spinning. You are a great instructor on your videos. You put the info down on the lower shelf so people like me (who can work with their hands and are mechanically inclined) can understand what you are saying. If I can see you do it, usually I can do it. Thanks again. By the way, I'm no spring chicken. I'm 68 and can still do it. It's the gettin up and down part that's hard. lol
Having a problem with the mower blades not engaging when the PTO is pulled up. Going to try to troubleshoot the switch and clutch this weekend and the videos on RUclips have been very helpful with diagnosing this issue
listen to him he knows his stuff good. But my fix is turning my pto mowers into cable engagement mowers no electrical bullshit no pto clutch that you know will break again thats why John deere and craftsmen made some of their mower's with those mine wont have them for to much longer
Wait, I watch your camping channel! Now my riding mower is acting up. Small world. Mine was doing something similar, fuse blowing, PTO not engaging and disengaging well. Very glad I watched this because I thought my PTO switch was the problem. Now I know to look at the clutch too, so thank you.
Replaced the bearing repaired the wire , $25 for a bearing,took old one to a bearing shop matched it up. Saved me a couple hundred bucks !
Kudos on your production value Foxboss9. It's so frustrating trying to decipher bad audio and/or badly lit or badly framed videos. Yours is not only helpful and to the point, but also a pleasure to watch. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!! thanks!!
This guy knows his stuff. You have have training or experience to understand, not clearly detailed enough for the newbie old-timer DIYer .
Thanks! The bracket that mounts the front axle and deck front yolk to the frame on my 1986 Bolens GT180 made an "excursion" when the nuts finally stripped off of all four 35 year old bolts. And of course it pulled one of the wires pulled out of the clutch assembly in doing so. Hopefully I can shove it back in to fix it if it's just at a connector. It looks like it pulled out cleanly.
Or maybe I can find a new wire assembly. It's still almost new, you know, lots of life left in the old girl. Good enough that yeah, I might have to go with a new clutch if necessary.
Oh, by the way, I have always engaged the clutch at about half throttle. 15 years ago I had to tighten the three bolts about a third of a turn. Once. That's it, with 925 hours on it. So don't do it at full bore.
Nice one Foxboss9, my ride on mower blades would engage at first than after a while if you turned off the blades they wouldn't re-engage. So I tested for power supply all ok, I re set the clutch gap and Bingo, she's running as good as gold.
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Good video made by an intelligent man with a good sense for video presentation. My PTO quietly died while mowing. After spending some time with the multi meter, pulling the ignition and PTO switches, finding solid ground locations, and getting random results, I started to pay more attention to the small melted spot on the PTO switch receptacle - not the plug itself. Then with the key ON and my foot on the seat to provide "operator presence", I was able to turn the clutch off and on by jiggling the connected PTO switch and plug together. But I sure wouldn't replace the entire harness, so I'll probably just bend and jigger the copper in the plug. I may take a look at how replaceable the plug is. Thanks for the inspiring vid.
Just a super great job at presenting a video that explains in depth the possible problems and the correct procedures for testing and rectifying. You are to be applauded for just a super presentation
Great video, Thank you. However the mower that I am working on has sat outside for a few years and I believe the clutch has rusted up and just not working.
While I am a well skilled wrench man. I decided to look up the swap to see what your technique could teach me. I'm glad I did!
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Thank you for information and advice
Yep clutch over heating and bad electric clutch is so common now
On my 3rd mower took me hours to figure out were the blade engagement cable goes i couldn't see how it threaded through but then i figured it out after about 3 hours
Welp all done. The hardest thing was getting the connector undone to the clutch, the 2nd hardest thing was getting the drive belt onto the last pulley. I zip tied part of the belt to the pulley and I made a tool so I could turn the pulley with a ratchet and with the tool it was easy. I like my Ariens max zoom mower.
Brilliant. I need to replace the main drive belt of a Snapper SPX17542, which looks identical to this model, and was wondering what I'd have to do about the wire to the PTO clutch as it was preventing me from removing the belt. I guess I'd just have to disconnect it, and the connector is probably in the engine space. Now I don't have to remove the clutch from the engine. Thanks!
your channel is very helpful. I have a Cub Cadet ZT1 42. the wiring and switch checks out good. When I engage the electric clutch, the mower deck will not disengage. I have to shut the mower off to shut deck off. When I restart the mower, the deck is often still engaged, but not all the time. is my clutch bad?
Foxboss9 thanks for your help. Let me tell you what happen . First I went and bought a new PTO switch and an new clutch. But for some reason I must have gotten a bad PTO switch. So I did what you said and jumped the switch that I thought was brand new only to find out that it was bad, My clutch Kicked in and that was all she wrote. So I went and bought a new switch and problem solved. Thanks for you help. I am taking this serious and getting certified as a small engine mechanic. It's nice to know that I can count on you to be there. THANKS
So glad you pinpointed that issue! hopefully not much more electrical problems in the future..they can be rough to find!!
Fabulous work and great explanation! I'm having this PTO clutch issue w/ my 20 year old Regent and this was a tremendous help. Unfortunately I maybe forced to get rid of my tractor if I can't get the adjustment to fix the issue. Keep up the good work.
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Did you ever get that to work I can’t for life of me get my new clutch to go on should it just slide on? Or should you have to hammer it on?
Converted my JD F 930 electric clutch to cable idler pulley, now smooth engagement and no slippage. No more silly dual coil springs to maintain belt tension. Electric clutch is the worst idea, period 💪
Absolutely saved me hundreds of$. Thank you and Bless you. For such a boring subject, the man is quite entertaining.
I wish everyone on RUclips making repair videos, did theirs as well as you. Nice job!
thanks!!!
I agree
Very detailed video. I for one can appreciate it! Pretty sure my clutch is out on mine gloms through the troubleshooting steps you mentioned. I did however take the switch apart, broke it apart more or less lol so I can tell that the contacts were touching and verified that it was still good. Thanks again
Recently, my Craftsman DYT4000 (B&S engine) started to take much longer for blades to reach full spin speed once switch is pulled. Used to take only 1 second, now takes up to 5 seconds! New belt, tensioner, spindles and pulleys. Only thing it could be now is the PTO clutch is slippin? It's gotta be right? That would cause the blades to take longer to reach full spin speeds
did you use an impact to tighten this as well? I heard you're just supposed to grip the HEX nut and tighten the long bolt to torque specs? Thanks for the help. I'm about to replace mine on my broadmoor.
I am not sure if my clutch is bad or not. It work great all last season, shapened blades, put deck back on, tried it for the first time this season and PTO clicks, but dont seem to sping blades fast enough to cut grass, had to use push mower. So it does engage but doesnt load the engine hardly at all, and blades dont spin fast enough to cut. I took the belt and blades spin easily so It has to be something in the PTO. Its on a 48" JD D-140 with electric pto. Any suggestions appreciated. Im on a fixed income and can not aford to try this and that and hope for the best, or take it to a repair shop if I dont have to. Thanks
Adjust clutch if needed... Look for a stuck belt tensioner that is allowing belt to slip on pulleys.. Make sure belt isn't in bad shape, like oil on it or wore out
Great thank you
I have one when you start it and engage the clutch the motor dies Just curious if the clutch might be bad should I test it with the voltage meter
I got a john deere 285 pto doing the same thing that would keep shutting down and I found a double yellow wire that was loose on the key switch. Replace the key switch and found that was the problem now it works great.
Awesome "mytractorforum" pointed this out to me. Lucky mule was detached for years. It's from a 1988 JD 332 dealer wants $650. I found a aftermarket coil pack on ebay & bearing for $200. Here are my quotes from tractorforum. "The problem with the resistance being .002 ohms is that it is drawing more than twice the amount of current, which heats up wires, wire insulation, VR and draws on the battery. It may work fine now, but you may just drive it till there smoke or flames rolling out from under the plastic hood"
My Craftsman got to the point where the PTO would engage with the mower cold but if you disengaged after cutting a while and tried to turn back on it would not work until you let mower cool. Yesterday it quit while I was cutting and doesn't operate at all now. Haven't had a chance to look further though.
Adjust air gap on PTO. There are three nuts that sandwich the plates at a certain distance. Definitely sounds to me as that Gap has gotten greater as the clutch has worn this is a common adjustment.
I bought a new PTO and the instructions say to recheck the torque settings on the bolt holding it on after engaging the PTO several times and even after a hundred times. A hundred times ? Crap , I bet nobody ever does after a hundred times and I doubt I will either. What are your thoughts on that ? Nice video by the way and thanks.
Put it this way it’s only torqued down once wherever any mower is originally built at factory. I would check the torque settings maybe after engaging it once or twice but then it should be good honestly
Hello brother all this started with my tractor after changing the belt not really the correct belt that goes on it, so I just had to add a little more tension Could this have caused my switch problem because belt too tight? I've loosened just waiting on new switch? Ty
Very good info. My problem is when I start my JD 190C the blades come on. I have checked the PTO Switch it checks out . Does that mean my clutch is bad or a safety switch is bad? Thanks for any advice.
Same issue
Craftsman z6000
Think mines still good something from my flip switch shuts the mower off
I took the clutch off checked the clutch with power in the wires and its good
But my metal switch is good to its not a pull switch what your taking about but still does the same thing my switch is being grounded out some place
Nice job! You have done an excellent job explaining your work. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
This applies to a Toro Wheel Horse 210-H as well. Exceptional video.
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I have a 2008 simplicity broadmoor 20 hp. The problem I am having is that when I get into thick grass the blades are slowing down. the motor rpm is not changing and the belts are not slipping. I beleive the problem is that the clutch seems to be slipping under load. How can I fix this
Can you make another video that actually shows you putting the new clutch on?
Best visual of everything I've seen yet. The connector... that they gave you the jumper for to connect it... to change the drive belt for my sabre 2254 had to be disconnected. That was more than a bear to get it disconnected. I had pliers, screwdrivers & a lot of muscle. I may have squeezed it so tight i may have damaged the wires. It connected back together just fine, but now the tractor doesn't start. It starts using starting fluid, but only for about 2 seconds. Could damaged wiring for the PTO cause the tractor to not stay running?
YES..
If the seat switch was bad..wouldn't the mower fail to start.?..rider on. key on. pto on. I have 12v to clutch..ohms 3.6..but has continuity unplugged.this bad?
How in the heck do you undo the connector that the two green wires go into? Edit: it was tough but I finally got the connector apart. The connector shell is slightly messed up though. Had to pry it against itself with a screwdriver.
I have craftsman T110 riding mower and my blade won't engage. I already replaced cable clutch because i ran over something in my yard that cut the original. I tried starting it and blade still didn't engage. I noticed my deck belt was loose and worn so replaced it. Still won't engage. Help plz
I’m curious what the hp rating on the clutch….this maybe my go-to clutch for a air cooled diesel connected to a samurai transmission….
Great video. I just fired up my mower from winter storage and I noticed my pot starts but it seems slow. Slow to start and my blades turn slow. Like their labouring to turn. I pulled my deck off and my pulleys are fine on the deck. Could my clutch be seizing? would that make the blades turn slow
If all tensioners and springs are articulating and tightening the belt then you may need to adjust the electric Clutch air gap... There are instructions online how to do that... Usually after sitting all winter it's a belt tension thing
Foxboss9 thank you so much for the reply. I will check the gap and go from there.
Thank you for being so detailed and naming parts numbers in videos.
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Ok Foxboss i tested the power from the battery to the PTO switch harness I had power. but i don't know how to test the connection from the harness to the connector that hooks up to the connector on the PTO clutch. I put the leads on the two wires the black/white and the black one but i didn't get any reading. I don't know if that was the proper way to test. I also turned on the motor and put the switch back on. And I engaged the switch and put a clamp on the seat safety switch. I just bought the switch so i hope it's good.
One side of the tester will go to ground and the probe will need to go into the backside of the switch harness while it is connected.. Not knowing for sure which wire is going to be the hot wire with the switch on you'll need to place the Probe on each wire individually and find which one becomes hot when the switch is on and cold when off..
I'm currently working on my 2001 Husky, you may have saved it with this video, thanks!
Sorry, not that specific model no.
It looks identical to the clutch on my gth2250 with B&S 22hp., but my anti-rotation tab was part of the frame. I have to try it, new tractor isn't in budget.
I keep snapping (smoked the last one in 5 minutes) jd l120 ..all bearings are GOOD . CLUTCH 2 YEARS OLD. Have any idea what is going on?? At wits end!! Thank you!
To add ..jd dealer..belt IS correct belt!
Yea while running it redomley clicks we both think its the electric clutch. what are your thoughts?
My Scag 52” hydro works fine until I turn it off then it won’t restart until it cools down. However, after this last time of running then shutting it off she won’t cut on at all! It appears all the switches are working fine. I’m on clutch number 2. The engine leaks oil and it runs down on the clutch. My question, will the oil cause the clutch to burn out?
If your still monitoring this, I hope you won't mind answering a question for me? I have a Simplicity Conquest mower and I've had problems with the mower shutting on and off just from hitting bumps. I've played around with the wires and found wiggling the wires will make the mower run off and on. So I'm pretty sure my wiring got a short and from the looks of it is in the plug itself that plugs into the clutch. Now on the plug that's not on the clutch side, but on the tractor side has what looks like a resistor added to the plug that is hooked to both wires on the one plug. Which seems wrong to me that it would be hooked up like that being I would think when you turn on the mower the 2 wires on that plug would both get electricity at the same time. is it made that way on purpose or is that something someone added somewhere along the line? Any ideas what I'm talking about here? Really appreciate your help!
+Gale Ghostrider The resistor is to eliminate electrical feedback from the PTO when energized.
The PTO will only have power going to one of the wires when turned on..
You may have a bad seat switch. When you hit bumps your butt will come off the seat slightly causing the switch to think you have got up off the tractor and as a safety it turns off the blades..
This is something that use to be a problem with brand new tractors that had operators that were less than 120lbs or short legged operators that had the seat adjusted all the way up. Even if you are neither of those two types of drivers I would still look at the seat switch as a definite possibility of failure.. good luck
My Dad and i have an ingersoll 1418 and it just resently started making a clicking noise we both think its the electric clutch? what are your thougts on that?
I lost ground to clutch while i was cutting lawn, does the clutch supply the ground or is it the relay this mower was sitting outside for a year and a half it was given to me i have spend $85 so far with new belts and pto switch and oil change, i was cutting lawn for about 10 min when blade stop working.
Is is possible to put a clutch and switch on a YTA 22V46 AND CHANGE IT OVER TO A 48" DECK?
I have the same mower but it's a 2017 I don't have that problem yet hopefully they upgraded the parts you showed from the factory
Thanks for this video. Last year I went to use my mower and found the battery dead. I tried to jump it with one of those small battery jumper and I think it burnt out my pto switch. I order4d one from Amazon but it didn't work. I ordered a clutch from Sears and it would not slide onto the shaft. The mower sat for a year and I was ready to sell it for cheap. I watched your video and rigged up a bypass switch like you did. The mower deck functions again. I ordered a replacement switch from Sears Craftsman and I saved myself a couple of grand on a replacement mower. Now everyone thinks I am a know it all fix it man! Haha!
Can a clutch cause a tractor to pop and sputter, only when the cutting deck is engaged?
My John Deere LX178 lawn tractor runs and when I turn off the PTO after cutting the grass I cannot cut it back on until the next day or I guess to The Cools down it's a 2006, Would it be safe to assume that is my clutch!!! I DO HAVE A PTO SW
What I would do is once it's hot disconnect the harness at the PTO and try to apply power directly to see if it will engage. Of course if it does while it's hot then you don't have a PTO problem it's something else.
How do you lock the crankshaft so you can torque the shaft bolt to 45-50 ft-lb when reinstalling the PTO? The manual for my old Broadmoor says to install the drive belt to the shaft pulley before installing the PTO unit. This means I cannot use a strap wrench to hold the shaft still.
Okay, folks... I figured you need to access the bolt on the other end of the crankshaft -- at the top of the engine. Time didn't permit removing the metal cover so I cut off the inner-most portion of the plastic cover to access the bolt with a socket and breaker bar. (I strung some quality twist ties across the new opening to limit grass from entering.) Although I hadn't known it, my impact wrench had almost gotten the PTO tight enough. Another few lb-ft on the bottom bolt with the top bolt firmly held did the trick. PTO now runs well.
Having the switch issue it's 18 years old so going to replace both the clutch and switch... I like the MLB pendant... Thats also my team as I'm also from NE Ohio
I have a cup today and I change the transmission hydraulic fluid and now she don't want to go forward or backwards
Hey I have a Craftsman GT300. The pulley for the blades spins freely when the engine is off. I disconnected the wiring for the clutch and started the engine, but the pulley spins. Do you think the clutch is bad in this case? I don't have the mower deck for it yet. Thanks!
The pulley is supposed to spin freely until you engage the the pulley is supposed to spin freely until the electric is applied to the PTO. Then the pulley locks up
@@Foxboss9 Thanks for the reply. My concern was that the blade belt pulley was spinning by the engine running (meaning the clutch was engaged) but the clutch had no power. I expected the pulley to not rotate strictly by the engine that case as in another video I saw. However I know the clutch is not engaged because I can move the pulley easily by hand when the engine is off. I will do some resistance and voltage checks in the morning. Thanks!
I have a lt1018 cub cadet tractor i mow with when i lower my deck down to 2 or 3 i loos rpms but when i pick up my deck my rpms come back up what would cause it
my Zoro turn zero it blew the fuse once ran great the rest of the season til the end mower started shutting off by its self. This season same thing now it won't start at all. Also can you show me how to replace a choke cable I am having to do it manually. How much do batteries run? Thanks! First time working on a mower.....
Would love to help But, I do not have any equipment here that is close to what you have.. Sorry..
Sorry to keep confusing you but its more like a continues clicking that it makes. what are your thoughts?
Without hearing it first hand, I really don't know.. Make sure you wiring going to clutch isn't damaged. Good luck..
I am fixing to replace the clutch on my John Deere LA 150. The bracket broke and the clutch started to spend which tore up the wiring. My problem is this: When I install the new clutch I have to find a hot wire to go to the safety switch under the seat. Right now I have put a jumper from the old clutch to the safety switch. When I install the new clutch it comes with a wiring harness just for the clutch. Do you have any ideas on how I can run a hot wire to the safety switch for the seat after I install the new clutch with the new wiring harness ? The wiring harness is the one just for the clutch, not the complete wiring harness for this mower. Thanks need your thoughts and ideas.
Robin Meads Sorry, you'll need to get a wiring diagram and trace it out ...no real easy way to rewire it unless you buy a new harness or patch up the old wiring.. good luck..
What if you buy a new clutch that doesn't come with the jumper wire to adapt to the old style harness?
How did you take the clutch off without it turning
Great video. I just put a new drive belt on my 06 cub cadet SLT1550. Now it vibrates like crazy. What would cause this?
Jerry Reid thanks. What do you mean it vibrates? Does it vibrate when you drive it? Does it vibrate when you turn on the blades? Or does it vibrate just when it's running only? As far as common wisdom would dictate that something you did while putting on the new belt caused the vibration. If you removed any pulleys you have to make sure that they are reinstalled correctly. Usually anything that I've worked on that had a vibration means that something that spins or goes around is out of balance. So either the belt that you installed has a flat spot on it or it is Twisted, or something else is causing the vibration that has nothing to do with your most recent repair.
I have a 2019 Toro Timecutter and when I engage my PTO it slows down the engine and even to the point at times it will cut off the engine. What do you think my problem is?
Bearings could be bad
The switch will fail a lot unless a diode and resistor are put in the circuit to suppress the spark when the clutch is deactivated. This could also be the reason why the fuse blows for an unknown reason. Unless spark suppression is used when the coil opens a very high voltage is induced just like a Magnito coil when the points are opened.
David Ward I know that is a very common feature that is added to a lot of the John Deere mowers especially the walk behinds however, this is the way it was Wired from the factory. It only failed the one time. Makes me believe that the harness has a diode and it that I'm not aware of. Looking at the schematics I do not see it anywhere though.
look at the indicator lamp a lot of times it will be in there
i bought a new pto clutch and a new switch but the clutch still doesn't engage the blades. I noticed the bolt that holds that pto clutch in place. Is this suppose to happen.
Hello, my craftsman ztl7000 just stopped on me while i was cutting. It starts and runs but does not move forward or backwards. It is about 4 yrs old and in nice condition. The belts are fine. Does the PTO switch also control the hydraulics as well?Any help is appreciated. Thanks
The PTO switch does NOT control anything but the PTO.... Your problem lies in the transaxle/hydrostat..... if all the belts are good and the fluid level is correct(check manual for level) Then you either have a Dump valve issue(make sure it is in the engage position by moving in and out a few times) or the transaxle/hydrostat is needing replaced or rebuilt
I got a huskavarner , the blade kick on and want kick off even when u un plut the wire
Awesome video! Any tips for a parking brake not disengaging? (no hydrolics/power steering, or Forward/reverse) I have a Simplicity Prestige, 23hp Hydro W/Ps Rmo giving me a headache.
Ryan Sorry not sure about that one.
Dang, was worth a shot anyways - Thanks for the fast reply and keep up the good work!!
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I have a different lawn mower but Mine will let me use it like if i use it for Hour or so have go get more gas in lawn mower go to garage shut it off when i go to try mow again wont let me but if i wait hour or so it will let me almost like gets 2 hot or something needs cool off so I believe its the Clutch
If i saw you in person i would buy you a drink. Thank you
I have a sears model 917.275520 which is a 42 inch deck with a brigs 23 hp engine. It has a manual engagement lever for the deck, if I were to change to a electric pto do I have to change the belt also or does it use the same belt?
Jimmy Drew most likely the belt will be close but you also need a powered PTO deck as there is a tensioner that is usually missing on manual decks compared to the ones that are equipped on power PTO models.. I can honestly say that I have never converted a manual to a power deck before... I have never found a reason to convert because I firmly believe that a manual deck is better... I know that some of sears manual engagement decks are known for "sticking" but when you have issues it's usually curd Buy lubricating and keeping the deck clean or at worse replacing a couple of components that may only cost $40 tops..... However, when you have an issue with a power PTO model those electric clutches can run upwards to $400. And even the cheap ones can be hovering around the $150 mark. Electric pto's are just like throttle body fuel injection when it first became available on cars, in that, they are a dream when they work and a nightmare when they don't.
FoxBoss, I NEED your help. I removed my PTO Clutch from a Yazoo/Kees mower and I cannot find a replacement that specifies the size that I need. I Measured the pulley to be 6 1/4" OD. Are most PTO clutches the same? It came off of a 15hp Kawasaki. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
+Jason Michael Sorry I am not sure what size you need. The reason is not all clutches are the same.. You need to get hold of a dealer and get a part number. Try this link.. www.yazookees.com/node4056.aspx good luck
I have a cub cadet slt 1554 and my PTO would randomly stop spinning blades. Then the blades would not engage at all. Getting power to the switch and to the plug. Any ideas? Want to avoid replacing the PTO clutch if possible.
Well you can try a new $20 dollar switch but if the wires going to the PTO are damaged/frayed or if the PTO is bad then the switch will need replaced again, and you will still need to fix the problem... There are no hard fast fixes when it comes to electrical issues, you have to troubleshoot the circuits from the battery, through all the safety switches, until you finally get to testing the PTO clutch... it sucks and that's why a lot of mechanics don't like to troubleshoot electrical.
Mine randomly kicks the pto out and at that point no power from the switch???? pto ohms at 3.6
I don't have that type of money just for a cheap clutch that'll just burn out again i am gonna switch all mine over back to cable engagement you push the lever up to engage the blades is how im gonna do my 3 pto mowers
but on the old gray craftsmen i can swap out the steering make a new battery holder for it because the gas tanks under the seat and right now the battery is in the way of any engagement lever
Hi, Which wires did you plug you switch into the back of the PTO to bypass the PTO?
I traced the power wire (constant hot/positive) that was coming into the switch.. I also traced the wire that would normally send power (when switched on) down to the PTO. I then "back probed" into those two wires on the PTO harness with two homemade leads that were connected to a aftermarket 15amp pull switch.
I ment my Dad and i have an ingersoll 4018 and it just resently started making a clicking noise we both think its the electric clutch? what are your thoughts on that?
The PTO will click when engaged. Is it not engaging? Is it chattering? Is the air gap adjustable on your clutch? How did the problem start?
My Cub Cadet Z-Force 60L PTO clutch fell off. It was so hot it was steaming and too hot to touch. I ordered a replacement. Haven't found any specific videos to make sure I can install it correctly. Any suggestions?
Make sure there is not a missing crankshaft spacer between the clutch and bottom of the engine.. Check for parts diagrams that show if one was originally installed... Make sure clutch is lined up and held in place correctly with rod or tab that keeps it from spinning when engaged... Make sure to not overtighten but make sure it won't come loose either... That's all I can think of...
Thanks! I don't see a spacer on the parts diagrams.
Mine HAS the electric clutch which I WANT TO REMOVE and NOT replace, I will be using the mower as a puller of a separate cutter, I am stripping the mower completely down to refurbish. The separate pulley ABOVE the electric clutch will remain.
ANY suggestions on WHAT TYPE, model, name of puller to remove the Electric clutch?
There is not a specific puller. You can use a 3 jaw or 4 jaw puller BUT, PTOs don't do so well with pullers because they are flimsy on the outside perimeter and the puller will not have anything "solid" to grab on to. You need to disassemble the PTO as much as possible. You may be able to get "down" to the rigid center that is "stuck" to the engines output shaft.
Also consider this, the PTO is keeping the pulley that you want to retain, tight and mounted correctly. A PTO, as long as it spins freely, is not a "drain" on the engine and doesn't hurt anything being on the engine keeping the drive pulley mounted in place..HOWEVER. It may be in the way when trying to change a drive belt.
love your videos, still have problem. pto switch burned up. i replaced clutch because it has 860 hours i replaced pto switch and new key switch and new relay. fired up pto worked for 15 minutes shut it off and wouldnt come back on. its a 2005 cub slt 1554. i disconnected pto plug checked for power and if i ground my test light to the frame i have power with switch pulled out. but have no pwer if i ground my test light to the second wire in the connection. please help what is the other wire for? its white.
I am not 100% sure as I had to trace all my wires to find where they came from BUT, it may be a safety switch wire..
If the PTO switch is still good then the majority of the problems with PTO's not engaging is safety switches not working or being engaged fully and not allowing the "all clear" signal to be sent to the PTO switch to allow it to engage the Clutch..
Also, make sure engine and battery have good grounds(usually not an issue though)
The white wire could also just be a power wire for a PTO on indicator dash light
thanks for replying. your probably right about the white wire because i do have a pto indicater light that doesnt work, i looked at schematic white wire goes to relay. i dont know if it is indicater light is causing this. i did what you said in other video on reverse switch.i cut the red wire and wire nutted the end. i also bypassed seat switch and i pulled the break switch and tested it and was fine. now with that said i just unplugged connection on pto. i ran jumper wires from hot wire from the connector to hot wire on pto side of connector and ran another jumper wires from frame to the other wire on pto side of connector and everything worked i just mowed 2 hrs shut if off and on again just fine. whats your thought my good man. thank you
I am not sure on that, I have a tough time not having hands on when diagnosing eletrical..
at this point I think that running it bypassed might be the way to go..
The air gap should be .012, I have with worn PTO'S closed the gap to .008 , I don't recommend going any tighter, it will cause the PTO to NOT disengage.
The anchor part, what's that link or part number
I have a troy bilt tb2450, the pto clutch assembly just buzzes, and has a burned smell. it tries to turn, but just buzzes, could it be burned out, or is there an adjustment?
look up PTO air gap adjustment.. see if it matches your PTO Style..
Does the air gap on new clutches have to be set or are they set at the factory
Steve Few they should be set
I,have a question sir, about my pto I loose power when I engage my pto ..its a briggs, 23horse, on a 08 husquvarina. When I tried to find rhe problem I noticed the pully was hard to,turn by hand even,with belts off .
Is this, normal?
There should be some resistance to turn the pulley by hand with no belt attached but not a lot. I'm not sure what you mean by lose power? If you are having your engine completely shut down or turn off then that's a safety switch issue. However if you're just experiencing less power being transmitted from the engine you could have something wrong with the PTO or in the deck spindles that's causing a drag. Don't roll out that the engine is needing attention. When I work for Sears I used to have customers complain that they had the lack of power whenever they would engage their deck thinking that there was something wrong with the belt drive or the deck itself only to have me come out and tell them that they had a blown head gasket or a valve guide come loose and cost the pushrods to fall out or bend and was only running on one cylinder. The big twin Briggs engines like you have seemed to have plenty of power but when they really get taxed with running something as big as a 46 or even bigger deck it shows the weakness in only having one cylinder working. Good luck
@@Foxboss9 thank you, for the reply, Ive checked the deck spindles and all the parts that spin turn pull and loosen..lol, but the head gasket, I didn't notice it . but I do,now I see oil now ive checked , now I can get this thing running like a 23hp should not like its mowing 2feet of grass..lol
thank you
I just checked my PTO Switch on my Husqvarna yth2348. It shows a reading of "00.4" in the OFF position and "00.4-00.7" in the ON position (depending on which terminals you test). The problem I am having is that when I have the mower running and I pull the PTO lever out to engage the clutch (Brand New clutch) the engine dies. I even unplugged the clutch and the engine still dies when I pull out the PTO knob.................Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
You have a safety switch issue ... it thinks you are not sitting on the seat..
@@Foxboss9 I have the same issue but my seat safety switch is reading good. What safty's are also in the PtO switch? I have a 1999 craftsman 20 hp Kohler vtwin.
what about if the clutch is kicking in and out? Would you think that would be a switch issue? Mine runs and then after a min or so the blades start cutting on and off. It makes the whole lawnmower shake like crazy then the blades will almost stop.
Southern Food Junkie try adjusting clutch air gap first
Do you got a video on that?
I don't believe so
i had the same problem on my john deere x140 lawn mower, it was the PTO switch which has melted on the inside, after replacing the switch, the lawn mower works again
I ment it makes a clicking noise even when the pto isn't engaged we both think its the electric clutch. You can here it clicking when you start the tractor and i know damn well it wont start if the pto is engaged when you drive it you can here it. what are your thoughts?
+Ryan Brooks While running it randomly clicks?
Very helpful !! Thanks my issue ended up being the relay. Husqvarna lt46. Thanks again!!
started my craftsman 16 hp green ride on mower today,and something is stuck. can't roll it. stalls under load of blades or drive train. don't sound like cut off switch thing. a link to a video on that would be great. i haven't seen one yet.
immrnoidall I don't have a video on anything like that. Check to make sure that your belts are moving freely. The fact that it it stalls when a load is put on it by either the blades or the drivetrain makes me think it is not belt Related but always good to check. Anytime I've had a mower in my shop in the past that stalls under any kind of a load whatsoever has always been engine power related. Unless the transaxle is locked up or the brake is stuck. Or, the spindles on the deck or froze up. Both of those situations though when it stall the engine necessarily it would just burn up the corresponding belt that was trying to power the thing that was stuck. So again, going back to the fact that both things make the engine stall without burning up a belt makes me think that it's a engine power issue. But the easiest thing to check is the belts just to make sure before you move forward with diagnosing the engine. Good luck.
can't roll it with the trans disengaged. i took the battery out last night and i can now get to the trans axle pullies after lunch with the family. noticed the deck has some huge rust holes so the project just got much bigger.
immrnoidall check to make sure that the break is not stuck on. That is a common issue. While laying on the ground behind the mower reach up on the right hand side of the transaxle and find the rod that runs to the brake pedal and just wiggle it to make sure that the mechanism is free. If that is free then check to make sure the belt has not jumped off and jammed itself causing the drive pulley to be stuck. If those two things are freed and it still won't move then you have something internal in the transaxle that went bad. However, that is most likely not the case. The rusty deck, that's a whole other story. Could be that the blades are physically hitting something underneath causing them not to turn. Again good luck
OK, thanks for everything.
thanks my switch under the seat was not hooked up. an ongoing problem is the alt light comes on when the PTO is on after it has been on for a while. Cub Cadet 1440
Walter Coy may have a weak charging system...
I have a Briggs V twine I had to replace the Battery last week it wouldn't hold a charge. should I change the voltage regulator ?
Walter Coy yes and also the alternator output
I have a question ? Got a john deere and im trying to removing i got the bolt out but hard to remove the clutch what kind of tools i need to use ?
None. The bolts the only thing that holds it on. So if it's not coming off it's because it's stuck to the shaft. Maybe even rusted to the shaft.
There may be the slightest chance that there might be a set screw that is through the side of the PTO collar that might need backed off but that is very rare
@@Foxboss9 thank you
@@Foxboss9 i think it rusted. For sure what do i need to do .? To remove the clutch
Chief, I need to REMOVE the electric PTO that's stuck on the engine shaft, I >>DO
+Numa Newbern The standard pulleys they put on non-pto mowers get stuck all the time. They call those regular pulleys "stack pulleys". Stack pulleys that are stuck can sometimes be removed by penetrate sprayed on top of the pulley in a small puddle and letting it soak for many days. But most time it is heated or cut off and replaced.. In your case you cannot really heat enough without the chance of damaging the PTO electrical. and cutting off defeats the purpose of saving but can be done if replacing. you could try to disassemble the PTO on the engine til it gets down to a smaller collar that would make it easier to cut(again only if replacing) or try PB Blaster spray .. No easy answer though..good luck
I had the same issue. A pulley puller did the job very easily.
+markfothebeast I ended up taking a dremel tool with the little cutting wheels and cutting it off, got REAL DICEY getting down to the engine shaft.
so how do you remove the old key in the shaft
I'm having a problem with my blades. They start turning fine. But once you get into any grass it will cause the blades to slow and then stop. Could it be my pto clutch?
sounds like a belt issue, make sure it is the correct length belt and in good shape..
Brand new belt. From John Deere dealer. We checked all pulleys and spindle housings. And blades. The only other thing we could figure is the pto clutch may be going out and getting weak.
make sure the air gap is set correctly on the PTO other than that make sure applied voltage isn't dropping off for some reason it should stay a constant voltage around 12 at the PTO