I really appreciate you sharing your videos on RUclips. I recently started using VP2050 based on your videos. I love the way it adheres to all kinds of surfaces (bare metal, old OEM paint, filler, etc.). The TDS says that you can topcoat directly over the VP2050 but I have had issues with peeling. The VP2050 remains in tact. The PPG rep has inspected the work and suggests using a sealer. You mentioned that the VP2050 is still releasing solvents up to three days after applying. I wonder if that could be my issue. I applied topcoat after two hours. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance and keep those videos coming!
I've been using 2050 for quite a few years now and have seen no problem so far. It definitely has some build to it so 3 coats is plenty to block on. I'm trying to cut back to two. The only concern I've seen is sometimes when I have to feather it out it tends to tear at the edge. It doesn't seem like it's peeling but it doesn't have that flat,smooth edge. This is with fully cured 2050 over metal abraded with 80g. Hard to explain. I don't think it's an adhesion problem but it's always in the back of my head. I think the DP actually has more bite to it. It just sucks as a filling primer. I use it more for sealing also.
Great info here... Been looking at PPG products and proper procedures and you referencing the DP90LV answered my questions on that. Keep up the great content!! 👍
I've been looking into this, the TDS for 2050 says you can paint over it or use a sealer over it. IMO if it's stated you can use a sealer over it, then it's not a sealer, because if 2050 was a sealer itself, they'd say it was and wouldn't tell you that you could seal it. I also see folks calling it an epoxy all the time. Nowhere in the TDS does that word appear. I think it's a hybrid, and therefore a fancy DTM.
If its a sealer it will say "Surfacer/Sealer" and will give two different directions for mixing it as one or the other which is just a difference in reducer amount. As far as epoxy primer people get confused. True 1:1 Epoxy Primer for putting over bare metal is not a sandable primer. It is not ment to be sanded and will clog sand paper immediately. However you mentioned hybrid epoxy and there are some out there that are a DTM that is sandable. I have come to really like House of Kolor KD3000 series hybrid epoxy primer. Its a true DTM that is a sandable highbuild, can also be used as a sealer when reduced
Please can you tell us where to get VP2050, I've been trying for months to get some for my project. I'm from Australia but I've also tried some PPG distributors in the US and no one knows anything about it. If I could find any place selling it I could have it shipped here via proxy. When do you get yours please?
@@lukemcquade4300 Na I didn't mate, I ended up going with PPG Epotec epoxy instead while doing the body work. Probably put some kinda high build over it later.
This was very helpful. What tip would you use for the 2050 and the DPLV? Can you recommend the best way to prep if there is a rust spot or some pitting and you can’t grind down the metal till the pitting is gone? Will the epoxy primer encapsulate the rust or will the small pitting still be a problem in the future? Thank you for sharing. I’ll check out your other videos.
yea id find the right tool to get in there and get the rust out. I wish i could remember the attachment. I saw a leading video and the guy had an attachment on his drill to get into the pitting before he tinned the metal. good luck
Same issue here, been trying for months to find it, spoken to the official Australian PPG department in Aus and even they don't know anything about it.
@@chrisoo8998 Really not sure, plenty of people on youtube/forums seem to be using this but no one can give a strait answer with an actual distributor name that has it.
Orange peel is from either your gun isn't adjusted out good enough with your air pressure, volume out put, and or fan width. As far as sealer it reallt depends on your surface, if its really nice and smooth looking then sure put base over it once it flashes or before the adhesion window time that is recommended runs out. However with most highbuilds I never get a perfect slick texture so i hit it with 400grits to smooth it, then i put sealer down for that perfect surface, let it flash then immediately put base down
My personal experience using both, I prefer 5300. VP2050 is great, but I’ve had an adhesion issue on steel. I’ve had another car came back to me 2 years after painting it, which was involved in an accident. Where the metal folded 2050 cracked off, and it wasn’t built to any excessive amount. No surprise, the pucks in the mix cups are rock hard like a polyester primer. 5300 grips hard onto substrates, has flex, and sands like butter compared to 2050. Sanding 5300 with 320 grit is about the same as sanding 2050 with 120 grit. 5300 is also direct to rust, 2050 if applied to minimal rust it will creep back. We’ve switched to tamco and haven’t looked back. Best of luck. -Zac
I really appreciate you sharing your videos on RUclips. I recently started using VP2050 based on your videos. I love the way it adheres to all kinds of surfaces (bare metal, old OEM paint, filler, etc.). The TDS says that you can topcoat directly over the VP2050 but I have had issues with peeling. The VP2050 remains in tact. The PPG rep has inspected the work and suggests using a sealer. You mentioned that the VP2050 is still releasing solvents up to three days after applying. I wonder if that could be my issue. I applied topcoat after two hours. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance and keep those videos coming!
I've been using 2050 for quite a few years now and have seen no problem so far. It definitely has some build to it so 3 coats is plenty to block on. I'm trying to cut back to two. The only concern I've seen is sometimes when I have to feather it out it tends to tear at the edge. It doesn't seem like it's peeling but it doesn't have that flat,smooth edge. This is with fully cured 2050 over metal abraded with 80g. Hard to explain. I don't think it's an adhesion problem but it's always in the back of my head. I think the DP actually has more bite to it. It just sucks as a filling primer. I use it more for sealing also.
I had this issue. Stripped a roof and finished it in 180. Stick much better to 180 than 80
Great info here... Been looking at PPG products and proper procedures and you referencing the DP90LV answered my questions on that. Keep up the great content!! 👍
Great channel!!
When you use VP 2050 directly on metal, do you use any metal conditioner before applying it or is the primer enough to prevent rust?
Great Videos Subscribed!! My question can you use VP 2050 on seam seal and fire walls as a sealer if you do 2 .1 .1 ratio with D87
I've been looking into this, the TDS for 2050 says you can paint over it or use a sealer over it. IMO if it's stated you can use a sealer over it, then it's not a sealer, because if 2050 was a sealer itself, they'd say it was and wouldn't tell you that you could seal it. I also see folks calling it an epoxy all the time. Nowhere in the TDS does that word appear. I think it's a hybrid, and therefore a fancy DTM.
If its a sealer it will say "Surfacer/Sealer" and will give two different directions for mixing it as one or the other which is just a difference in reducer amount. As far as epoxy primer people get confused. True 1:1 Epoxy Primer for putting over bare metal is not a sandable primer. It is not ment to be sanded and will clog sand paper immediately. However you mentioned hybrid epoxy and there are some out there that are a DTM that is sandable. I have come to really like House of Kolor KD3000 series hybrid epoxy primer. Its a true DTM that is a sandable highbuild, can also be used as a sealer when reduced
@@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote SPI epoxy is a true 1:1 product and it is easily sandable. Really great stuff.
I'm thinking about doing a panel with the new Orion and seeing how long it takes to fully cure by weight.
Please can you tell us where to get VP2050, I've been trying for months to get some for my project. I'm from Australia but I've also tried some PPG distributors in the US and no one knows anything about it. If I could find any place selling it I could have it shipped here via proxy. When do you get yours please?
Did you find any here in Oz?
@@lukemcquade4300 Na I didn't mate, I ended up going with PPG Epotec epoxy instead while doing the body work. Probably put some kinda high build over it later.
I’m trying to find a place or website to get it rn. I’m over here in Fresno, Ca area but people havnt even heard of it. Its weird.
This was very helpful. What tip would you use for the 2050 and the DPLV?
Can you recommend the best way to prep if there is a rust spot or some pitting and you can’t grind down the metal till the pitting is gone?
Will the epoxy primer encapsulate the rust or will the small pitting still be a problem in the future? Thank you for sharing. I’ll check out your other videos.
yea id find the right tool to get in there and get the rust out. I wish i could remember the attachment. I saw a leading video and the guy had an attachment on his drill to get into the pitting before he tinned the metal. good luck
Trying to get my hands on this primer In Australia. 2 ppg distributors I went to didn't even know what it was
Same issue here, been trying for months to find it, spoken to the official Australian PPG department in Aus and even they don't know anything about it.
@@tfoot22 do they even have it in Australia?
@@chrisoo8998 Nope, at this point I can't even find it for sale in America to import either.
@@tfoot22 is there anything similar in ppg I can use
@@chrisoo8998 Really not sure, plenty of people on youtube/forums seem to be using this but no one can give a strait answer with an actual distributor name that has it.
Where can you buy this primer online
You can’t buy it online unfortunately only from a ppg jobber
HI , Ive used this product now a couple times, it is thick , what type or which reducer can I use to thin it out a little. 11-30-23
How long between coats? The tech sheet says 10 to 15 but doesnt seem to be enough.
Now after using the 2050 and your filler, do you still have to use a sealer over all that? Or is the 2050 the sealer as well?
This will work with the DBC deltron paints? And Will DT885 reducer work as a reducer with this,?
If I were to do my car panel by panel over time go long can this stay out in the open air? Will it trap moisture?
Is this the equivalent to the Evercoat DTM primer?
You can open the skin by scuffing and let it continue to breathe, can you water sand this stuff
2 questions what would cause orange peel with 2050 and is it really necessary to spray a sealer over 2050 or can I go direct to base
Orange peel is from either your gun isn't adjusted out good enough with your air pressure, volume out put, and or fan width. As far as sealer it reallt depends on your surface, if its really nice and smooth looking then sure put base over it once it flashes or before the adhesion window time that is recommended runs out. However with most highbuilds I never get a perfect slick texture so i hit it with 400grits to smooth it, then i put sealer down for that perfect surface, let it flash then immediately put base down
What do you use as a sealer
Has anyone tried the upol 2253 dtm primer? Seems similar to the vp2050
Is a 1.8 tip a ideal tip size?
How does 2050 differ from Tamco 5310?
My personal experience using both, I prefer 5300. VP2050 is great, but I’ve had an adhesion issue on steel. I’ve had another car came back to me 2 years after painting it, which was involved in an accident. Where the metal folded 2050 cracked off, and it wasn’t built to any excessive amount. No surprise, the pucks in the mix cups are rock hard like a polyester primer.
5300 grips hard onto substrates, has flex, and sands like butter compared to 2050. Sanding 5300 with 320 grit is about the same as sanding 2050 with 120 grit.
5300 is also direct to rust, 2050 if applied to minimal rust it will creep back.
We’ve switched to tamco and haven’t looked back.
Best of luck.
-Zac
I love how the resins in all their products are so compatible with each other from the bottom to the top that's what you need for a perfect paint job.