You want to work at an angle so the edge of the paper doesn't cut ca line in the panel. The only time you go in a strait line is on someone like a bed rail where its skinny and long. At least that's what I do anyway.
I’m not shaping the panel at this point just taking out the texture. The panel is already straight. I have a video of the car finished on here so you can check it out for yourself
Nice video. I'm working on the boat my dad left me after he passed. A 1968 Bertram that's been in the family all my life. It goes without saying I need to get this right. Thanks for being part of that effort.
Well im glad you found this helpful. Its crazy to me how old this video is but it looks like its still helping some of you out. Good luck on your project man. -Dane
Yeah it all depends on the person doing it. I have blocks for different things. In this case since I was not shaping the panel I opted for a smaller block that is easier to keep paper on when wet. Im also just removing texture and the panel is already flat at this point. Thanks for watching and for the input. -Dane
Well thank you! It seems like most comments on this video are how im doing it wrong 🤣 If you have questions please let me know when you start on your car. Ill do my best to answer them for ya.
Thank Tom. I dont do too many instructional videos but if you have questions or would like a specific video let me know. If enough people want to see a particular bodywork video I can make it. Thank you for the support!
Burndown , I always enjoy watching different people on RUclips doing bodywork different ways. Some ways I like, some I don't! But there are several ways to get to the final paint. Take care and stay safe! Tom
Thanks man. Depending on the panel their are a few tricks I have learned along the way to help get things done but this video sums up whats in the title for the most part. Thank you for watching! -Dane
Its guys like you that made me quit making content like this for people on this channel. I was just sharing how I get results on my projects but apparently lots of guys like you are much better at it than I am. So I will leave it to you to make entertaining and informative auto body content for the masses since your so well versed at it. Ill just stick to making crappy videos about my ugly un painted race car and winnebago. Thanks for the comment tho. -Dane
Thank you! I dont really make how to videos but I did this one to see how it would go. If I find something that people are asking for I may do more but I have my hands full with projects at the moment. Thanks for watching! -Dane
Thank you Rich! When I started doing youtube I was trying different things to see what I would like to do and what I didn't. I made this to show people how I sand high build primer. Others do it differently but this is how I do it. Im not really that into making how to videos but I do give tips here and there and am always willing to answer questions. Thank you for watching and for subscribing! -Dane
When you're done sanding the guide coat and there are low spots, do you keep sanding until they disappear? Would you ever add glazing putty to a low spot?
This video is for sanding High Build after all your body work is done. This should be your last step before your ready to paint. Start with the highest grit that will remove the texture and work your way up to minim 400 or higher depending on final color. Darker colors you may want to go up to 800 or so before base.
Nice Video bro :) Should I sand till 400 grit or go up to 600? And also, do you spray another couple of epoxy primer coats over the filler or do you go straight to basecoat? Thanks
In this video the car’s bodywork is all done. I was sanding the car “for paint” Not to correct anything. I like to run a coat of sealer before base so everything is nice and even and it fills in the 400 scratches and has good adhesion. You can go up in grits if you are spraying a dark cooler if you want. Some guys go to 600-800
@@Burndown Thanks for the advice. I will start painting my car tomorrow from bare metal. Its my first time painting a car and so my plan is: - 3 coats of epoxy primer - 2 coats fo spray filler - Sand the car like in your video - 2 coats of epoxy primer - 3 coats of basecoat - 3 coats of clear I hope i dont miss something. But thanks for the video, it helps me to plan in my mind :) Keep it up
@@osmankartal2975 if your car is bear metal you should watch some bodywork videos to see how to properly bodywork a panel. A good foundation is the key to a good paint job
I like to take the texture out with the DA when I can and then come back for multiple rounds to get scratches out. Just helps to speed up the process a bit from what I have found. If its your first time you may want to do it all by hand so you dont burn through or change the shape at all.
@@Burndown yes i understand, but in my opinion you will not save time. I always put black powder first and then block it with 240 grid until texture is almost away, then take 400 to finish blocking , then round machine with 500-600 grid. I have been autopainter for 20 years and tested a lot of diffrent ways, but we all have our own way.
Yes leave the texture for blocking. That DA is a production tool for doing speedy repairs. Take your time and block it perfect. It takes multiple priming and blocking sessions to get a car nice and straight. I have been doing high quality paint jobs for over 30 years and there is no quick easy way. It takes TONS of time to do it right.
You want the paint to flow so the smooth surface helps with that. If the grit is low it tends to grab overspray and may result in an “orange peel” or texture. No you don’t color sand a flat paint so make sure you lay it out well. The main thing is your doing it yourself so enjoy the process and be proud that you tacked it whatever the result.
Question I have for you spray paint as guide coat coverage peeps is, I never see better then 50% coverage of the panel. Example, your smiley face didn't even cover 50% of that panel . So what about the rest of the panel? You have no idea if there is any lows on 50 or better!?
The whole panel is sprayed with guid coat. It’s a light coat that you sand off. If it’s too think it will plug up your paper because you should be in a high grit by this point
👍 what gritt for shapping,80-180 and the 240-320? so a small block with fine sandpaper its just to rifine the primer not to shape it, right?.... subcribed
By the time im in the higer grits im not shaping the panel any more. All the shaping should be done by this point so a short block is used to keep it flat and cut the texture and sanding scratches out. Let me know if that made sense or not. Thank you for the question. -Dane
I don't think it is. It was just used to take the texture out so I still did most of the work by hand to finish this. Just a bit of a time saver is all.
I think I have a walk around of this car after I shot it in my DTV series I was doing. I try not to do single stage as a top coat most of the time. This was a Base Clear job.
This video is showing how to sand high build primer. This is the last step I do before it’s ready for paint. Your bodywork should be done at this point and your just taking out the texture of the primer. You shouldn’t be laying into it enough to burn through. If you do burn through you will have to spot prime it before base.
220 on the DA. I like to go up in grits when im using the DA because its a lot faster than by hand. Its easy to go too far if your using a lower grit when removing texture like I was in the video. I come back over it with 320 and then 400 both by hand to get any scratches out form the DA or anything that got missed in the process. Guide coat before sanding as well to fill in the scratches and know where you have and haven't sanded. Its a lot of work but if you want the paint to look good you have to put in the effort. Thank you for the nice comments! I appreciate it. -Dane
Your best bet is to go to your local auto paint supply store and get a few foam blocks. They are pretty in expensive and work well. You can use whatever you want tho if its flat. They sell all kinds of blocks on the market.
It will take a long time to sand out the 180 grit scratch and you may have to sand it more than once to make sure the 180 scratch is gone but you could do it. If you go 180 200 400 its faster even tho it seems like more work. The 220 will cut the 180 faster than 400 and the 400 can cut the 220 pretty quick. Over stepping grits will result in more time sanding overall. At least this is what I find when I do it.
Js S I shoot some sealer before base so 400 is all I go. If you’re shooting base without sealer you could go 600-800 if you want to make sure the base lays flat.
Burndown cool thanks! Ya I’m shooting a sealer as well. I body worked it, epoxy, put a gallon of high build, then I’ll use a sealer and then paint. Thanks for the advice
If your running the primer you should practice a bit before you shoot some clear coat or your gonna have a lot of work to do. You have to sand them out. -Dane
Dane Thompson hi ive got bike fairing to paint , no repaint, isn't red base coat.... and needs to be green, what would you reccomended prep method ? Da wet flat etc thanks
Hey Jim! Thats a good question. I have, and use all different size and shape blocks . I tend to use the longer blocks on a larger panels when shaping them. I prefer a bit shorter block on smaller panels with a radius and even shorter ones for a sharp radius. Longer blocks will cover more Realestate but I find they dont cut as good because you are spreading the load out more depending on length of block. They do help on the larger panels tho because of the length. Once a panel is flat I dont think you really need the long block at that point to get scratches out. Everyone has their own way to do things.Find what works for you and do that. As long as your achieving the finish you are after I think thats what matters most. Also when your wet sanding the paper wont want to stick anymore so a short block will allow you to wrap the sandpaper around itself and use the pressure of your had to hold the paper to the block. Hope this answers your question. -Dane
You had me all the way up to wet sanding the primer. Primer is porous and holds water. If there is bare metal beneath the primer you have set yourself up for rust! Dry sand primer! Wet sand paint and clear coat. You look like you had the job done well without wet sanding. Don't put water on it to look down it for flaws. Use final wash or wax remover and spray on it.
The car was sealed before any of the high build primer was applied so it should protect the metal just fine against any moisture. Any bare metal is also spot primed in between any coats with epoxy. This is just how I get panels straight and I wanted to share it with others, to get them out in the garage trying to do it themselves. The principles still apply regardless so if your not comfortable wet sanding the high build you can just use your guide coat and sand it dry. Then like you stated you can use a prep solvent to check the panels without fear of moisture. Happy sanding man! I hope it helped at least a little. haah
Called tech support at Evercoat today and they do not recommend wet sanding Feather Fill G2 or Slick Sand due to absorption. They acknowledge some shops do it but they have heaters and lights and can be sure to evaporate moisture. For us DIYers, it just adds risk to the job, as if it is not 100% dry when you seal it before base coat, you may get bubbling and have a big repair job.
@@brianwick3826 If you can wetsand a whole car and then shoot it before the moisture is out of the panel you are an animal! haha. I live in CA and its always hot so no problems with things drying but I could see how that may be an issue. Water base paint will do the same thing.... just look at all the early 2000's gm trucks.
@@Burndown i agree with everything you showed and i use the flat hand method but i move my hand back and forth multiple times with my hand traveling a distance of up to a couple feet over every inch of the panel in a straight line and all directions...also varying the speed of my hands travel..and yes sometimes a cotton clove helps to make your hand glide smoothly so you can feel waves better.. but i think a bare hand is best as long as your hand and panel is completely dry with a little dust to ensure your hand glides smoothly..you cant feel nothing if your hand is grabby and choppy sticking to the panel and not moving smoothly...also hand pressure will effect the feel so i vary that also, a nice very light touch is needed...i never liked the gun sight method using water or wax and grease remover as it never flows out perfectly like clear coat and that uneven gloss distracts from seeing the waves you are looking for...i go by feel mostly and when in doubt just go another coat of hi build primer and use long and short soft flex blocks..ive never used guide coat it loads the sand paper too much and sand paper is very expensive
typically it depends on grit of paper your using. The finer grit papers will tend to clog when you dry sand with them. You can do it but they will last longer and not clog up so quickly if you wet sand. For me I like to wet-sand anything over 220. I will dry sand clear coat to knock texture down with 1k but that ends up getting wet sanded after that. Hope this explains it a bit.
This video is not on shaping a panel. Its on sanding the last round of primer before you paint. Have a look at my portfolio videos. All the cars were done by me using this same technique.
H2Oskiaddict always at an angel. Never with the edge of the paper going the same direction you are sanding. If you turn the block and sand in a cris cross style pattern you should be good. You’ll know if you sanded wrong because you’ll cut lines in your panel with the edge of the paper.
Listen guys if you block a panel ? Do it with a block at least as long as ya forearm. The way this cats doing it youll never be razor straight from the palm block hes using.
5 YEARS later : I'm still currently block sanding the side of my house will hopefully wet sand by next year 🙃😅 All Jokes aside THANK YOU , short informative and simple 👏 👌 🤙😎
This is one of my earlier videos but when I made it I couldn't find any videos on sanding your high build top coat. I have had all kinds of comments on this but its how I still do it today. Im glad you liked the video. Thank you
Why do this kind of video maker doesn't show how to apply and sand out putty in criticle place like curve line,they only show it on a flat surface which is easy to do...
I did this part of the car because its easy to see for filming and explain. Compound curves and body lines on say a fender are harder to do yes and are a little different technique. I could probably make a video if you need it explained to ya? I got away form videos like this but I could throw one up if it would help. -Dane
First of all remove all jewelry when block sanding or you will put grooves in primer. Second learn how to manage a spray can. If your spray can skills are a clue then the car prob hasn't been primed correctly. What kind of airline drier do have? Is the primer full of moisture now that will show up in a couple years as bubbles? Show people the basics first. Auto painter for 30 years....
You can see the finished product if you look it up or several other complete cars I have done on here.type in 1986 bronco in the search bar. I’m not shaping the panel if that’s what your referring to. Thanks for the advice tho.
When i was a noob i did what u did and then i used the longest block possible to cover the areas as uniforn as possible and it looked good and if u use a linear block sheeshh game over ull have the straightest panel ever
Wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong! You're using a good product that will achieve what you're describing of in regards to getting it straight as an arrow and take care of minor imperfections as well. However, your block is way to small, probably shouldn't be using the DA either, and dam sure not wet sand the POLYESTER primer filler. That shit it basically spray on Bondo, that is pretty much a sponge absorbing all moisture straight down to the metal substrate, thusly you will for sure be having corrosion and adhesion problems real soon. You wouldn't put anything of the sort on Bondo, and so think about it. 🤔 ...why do the POLYESTER as such? You must understand Body filler (Bondo) is a polyester resin infused product. Dam do-it yourselfers always out there on RUclips giving the wrong advice on professional matters. The positive sentiment is there, but the right advice is not. Top coat that shit with a urethane primer surfacer before wet sanding!
Im just sharing how I do things man. Never said it was the only way, or even the best way. You can go look at my paint videos if you would like to see how my cars turn out. I have never had an issue with any of my work. I could not find a decent video for finishing high build primer so I put this together one day. Just think of my channel like your watching Jerry Springer and you'll fell better about it 🤣 I also have a power glide transmission rebuild video too. Lots of hate on that one as well, but its in my car and seems to be working fine so I don't know what all the fuss is about. -Dane
@@johnp82 cause I spend my life cruising the internet to right the wrongs of this evil world. Makes me feel good to pull others down to prop myself up. Think I'll go check your channel out now. 🤔🤣😂
Finally someone told me why not to sand up-down and side-to-side - thank you!
You want to work at an angle so the edge of the paper doesn't cut ca line in the panel. The only time you go in a strait line is on someone like a bed rail where its skinny and long. At least that's what I do anyway.
Longer block in those big panels. But great work. It works.
I’m not shaping the panel at this point just taking out the texture. The panel is already straight. I have a video of the car finished on here so you can check it out for yourself
Nice video. I'm working on the boat my dad left me after he passed. A 1968 Bertram that's been in the family all my life. It goes without saying I need to get this right. Thanks for being part of that effort.
Well im glad you found this helpful. Its crazy to me how old this video is but it looks like its still helping some of you out. Good luck on your project man.
-Dane
I've watched a ton of these videos. You're the best teacher out of all of them, thanks for sharing. I have a project I'll use your lesson on soon.
Thank you. When I made this I could not find a video that was any good myself.
Nice job explaining. That's how I do it. I would have used a longer block on that area but we are all different. Keep up the good work.
Yeah it all depends on the person doing it. I have blocks for different things. In this case since I was not shaping the panel I opted for a smaller block that is easier to keep paper on when wet. Im also just removing texture and the panel is already flat at this point. Thanks for watching and for the input.
-Dane
Very good video .... went over everything start paper to finish paper etc .... brillliant thanks
Well thank you! I like the positive comments. Hope it helped out!
Burndown yes enjoyed it .... any more vids coming our way ?? Really enjoyed thank you , rich
@@6655nico I have a basics filler video coming tomorrow and I may do some body work tips videos.
Burndown give me shout out if you can ...... brilliant vids ..... were you from
Very good video. Informative and entertaining. I’ll be doing this on my 67.
Well thank you! It seems like most comments on this video are how im doing it wrong 🤣 If you have questions please let me know when you start on your car. Ill do my best to answer them for ya.
Good little short video. I would like to see more block sanding and painting videos. I am subscribing to see what you put out! Tom
Thank Tom. I dont do too many instructional videos but if you have questions or would like a specific video let me know. If enough people want to see a particular bodywork video I can make it.
Thank you for the support!
Burndown , I always enjoy watching different people on RUclips doing bodywork different ways. Some ways I like, some I don't! But there are several ways to get to the final paint. Take care and stay safe! Tom
Great video Bro ! You explained everything one needs to know especially about sanding in a cross hatch pattern. Thumbs up to you .
Thanks man. Depending on the panel their are a few tricks I have learned along the way to help get things done but this video sums up whats in the title for the most part. Thank you for watching!
-Dane
Nice to see someone who knows what he is talking about and uses a mask :)))) wet or dry is the only way for me.
Yeah a mask is important. Its an old spray mask but I feel its better than nothing.
This really helped me out mate! Thanks for the advice 👍
No problem man. Hope it helps you get your project done!
Great video I’ve never heard of this method but I’ll give it a try tomorrow with my new palm sander!
Coarse grits will get it flatter! I block with 150 dry with guide coat than 220 dry!
Its guys like you that made me quit making content like this for people on this channel. I was just sharing how I get results on my projects but apparently lots of guys like you are much better at it than I am. So I will leave it to you to make entertaining and informative auto body content for the masses since your so well versed at it. Ill just stick to making crappy videos about my ugly un painted race car and winnebago.
Thanks for the comment tho.
-Dane
Great video brother keep up the great content 👍
Thank you! I dont really make how to videos but I did this one to see how it would go. If I find something that people are asking for I may do more but I have my hands full with projects at the moment.
Thanks for watching!
-Dane
Thanks for the tips my guy
You bet
Very good vid..... I'm new and subscribed thank you for your time
Thank you Rich! When I started doing youtube I was trying different things to see what I would like to do and what I didn't. I made this to show people how I sand high build primer. Others do it differently but this is how I do it. Im not really that into making how to videos but I do give tips here and there and am always willing to answer questions.
Thank you for watching and for subscribing!
-Dane
367th subscriber here! cheers. Passionate work brother! Have a great day
Thank You for the support! I really appreciate it!! Hope you enjoy my videos!!
When you're done sanding the guide coat and there are low spots, do you keep sanding until they disappear? Would you ever add glazing putty to a low spot?
jlp613 low spots would get filler not glaze. Glaze is for pin holes. Then knock it down re guid coat and sand till it’s flat.
@@Burndown didn't know thats what you use the glaze on ... I just went through hell with pin holes.. drove me insane..
What about the edge? Am redoing a dodger truck right now and that video just help me a lot thank nice job
What do you mean by edge?
@@Burndown like the top of the quarter by the truck still have the guid coat and some texture left
@@brokeanbrokengarage8494 you need to sand it and use a crisscross pattern so you don’t drive the edge of your paper in and make lines
@@Burndown alright thank you for your help keep the videos up
What grit did you start with?? I’m used to lacquer primer not high build
This video is for sanding High Build after all your body work is done. This should be your last step before your ready to paint. Start with the highest grit that will remove the texture and work your way up to minim 400 or higher depending on final color. Darker colors you may want to go up to 800 or so before base.
Megusto te Felisito🎉
🙌
Nice Video bro :)
Should I sand till 400 grit or go up to 600? And also, do you spray another couple of epoxy primer coats over the filler or do you go straight to basecoat?
Thanks
In this video the car’s bodywork is all done. I was sanding the car “for paint” Not to correct anything. I like to run a coat of sealer before base so everything is nice and even and it fills in the 400 scratches and has good adhesion. You can go up in grits if you are spraying a dark cooler if you want. Some guys go to 600-800
@@Burndown Thanks for the advice. I will start painting my car tomorrow from bare metal. Its my first time painting a car and so my plan is:
- 3 coats of epoxy primer
- 2 coats fo spray filler
- Sand the car like in your video
- 2 coats of epoxy primer
- 3 coats of basecoat
- 3 coats of clear
I hope i dont miss something. But thanks for the video, it helps me to plan in my mind :)
Keep it up
@@osmankartal2975 if your car is bear metal you should watch some bodywork videos to see how to properly bodywork a panel. A good foundation is the key to a good paint job
Great video man, Thank you....
You welcome man! Happy sanding!
GREAT VIDEO LEARNED ALOT; NOW I GO PRACTICE !! WHAT YOU PREACH !! PATRICK.P
The more things you work on the better youll get at doing it! Thanks for watching!
-Dane
The texture is better to have when u block. That will help you to get better blocking. DONT sand it away with round machine before....
I like to take the texture out with the DA when I can and then come back for multiple rounds to get scratches out. Just helps to speed up the process a bit from what I have found. If its your first time you may want to do it all by hand so you dont burn through or change the shape at all.
@@Burndown yes i understand, but in my opinion you will not save time. I always put black powder first and then block it with 240 grid until texture is almost away, then take 400 to finish blocking , then round machine with 500-600 grid.
I have been autopainter for 20 years and tested a lot of diffrent ways, but we all have our own way.
Yes leave the texture for blocking. That DA is a production tool for doing speedy repairs. Take your time and block it perfect. It takes multiple priming and blocking sessions to get a car nice and straight. I have been doing high quality paint jobs for over 30 years and there is no quick easy way. It takes TONS of time to do it right.
Awsome video really just helped me out alot
Thanks man! I hope your project goes well.
-Dane
Is 400 necessary if I’m going with a flat paint ? Is a wet sand necessary?
You want the paint to flow so the smooth surface helps with that. If the grit is low it tends to grab overspray and may result in an “orange peel” or texture. No you don’t color sand a flat paint so make sure you lay it out well. The main thing is your doing it yourself so enjoy the process and be proud that you tacked it whatever the result.
Question I have for you spray paint as guide coat coverage peeps is,
I never see better then 50% coverage of the panel.
Example, your smiley face didn't even cover 50% of that panel . So what about the rest of the panel?
You have no idea if there is any lows on 50 or better!?
The whole panel is sprayed with guid coat. It’s a light coat that you sand off. If it’s too think it will plug up your paper because you should be in a high grit by this point
Give Tamco 5310 a shot I reduced mine 10% or less and it had no texture. I was like wow!
Im in So Cal so not too many Tamco suppliers out here.
Brilliant video pal thank you
Thank you Rich! Good luck with your project!
@@Burndown really enjoyed it .... cuts so much time out using da
👍 what gritt for shapping,80-180 and the 240-320? so a small block with fine sandpaper its just to rifine the primer not to shape it, right?.... subcribed
By the time im in the higer grits im not shaping the panel any more. All the shaping should be done by this point so a short block is used to keep it flat and cut the texture and sanding scratches out.
Let me know if that made sense or not.
Thank you for the question.
-Dane
@@Burndown got it brother, thank you✌👍
Is that DA a short throw? Thanks!
I don't think it is. It was just used to take the texture out so I still did most of the work by hand to finish this. Just a bit of a time saver is all.
@@Burndown Thanks for the info, and making a video!
Good work mate
Thank you. Hope it helped
Great work
Thank you! Cheers!
Fantastic video are you spraying in Acrylic or 2 pack and what color
I think I have a walk around of this car after I shot it in my DTV series I was doing. I try not to do single stage as a top coat most of the time. This was a Base Clear job.
@@Burndown have you got a link to walk around
Subsciber 395... Great video hope to see more.
Awesome man! Thank you for subscribing to my channel! I will continue to post when I can so please check back periodically.
-Dane
What happens with the parts that have sanded back down to original paint? Do you do another coat of primer after this?
This video is showing how to sand high build primer. This is the last step I do before it’s ready for paint. Your bodywork should be done at this point and your just taking out the texture of the primer. You shouldn’t be laying into it enough to burn through. If you do burn through you will have to spot prime it before base.
Beautiful
It should turn out nice 👊
Nice video...great job...what grit did you use on the DA ? 120? 180?
220 on the DA. I like to go up in grits when im using the DA because its a lot faster than by hand. Its easy to go too far if your using a lower grit when removing texture like I was in the video. I come back over it with 320 and then 400 both by hand to get any scratches out form the DA or anything that got missed in the process. Guide coat before sanding as well to fill in the scratches and know where you have and haven't sanded. Its a lot of work but if you want the paint to look good you have to put in the effort.
Thank you for the nice comments! I appreciate it.
-Dane
Dane Thompson absolutely spot on
Can you use the kind of blocks that you use for drywall?
Your best bet is to go to your local auto paint supply store and get a few foam blocks. They are pretty in expensive and work well. You can use whatever you want tho if its flat. They sell all kinds of blocks on the market.
Thanks for the vid 👍
Thank you for watching!
So funny dude...nice vid & tips
Thanks man!
Good Friend 👍saludos desde Mexico
🙌
can I get away cutting it with 180 then jump to 400?
It will take a long time to sand out the 180 grit scratch and you may have to sand it more than once to make sure the 180 scratch is gone but you could do it. If you go 180 200 400 its faster even tho it seems like more work. The 220 will cut the 180 faster than 400 and the 400 can cut the 220 pretty quick. Over stepping grits will result in more time sanding overall. At least this is what I find when I do it.
People have been wet sanding primer for years. plus 2k primer is not like the old school lacquer primer.
Is 400 grit the finest i would need to go?
Js S I shoot some sealer before base so 400 is all I go. If you’re shooting base without sealer you could go 600-800 if you want to make sure the base lays flat.
Burndown cool thanks! Ya I’m shooting a sealer as well. I body worked it, epoxy, put a gallon of high build, then I’ll use a sealer and then paint. Thanks for the advice
Let’s be hero’s!!!!
Im trying 🤣
How u remove the run out of the primer
If your running the primer you should practice a bit before you shoot some clear coat or your gonna have a lot of work to do.
You have to sand them out.
-Dane
Hi was that high build primer or ever coat slick sand ? Thanks
Its feather fill g2
Dane Thompson hi ive got bike fairing to paint , no repaint, isn't red base coat.... and needs to be green, what would you reccomended prep method ? Da wet flat etc thanks
why not use a longer hard block ?
Hey Jim! Thats a good question. I have, and use all different size and shape blocks . I tend to use the longer blocks on a larger panels when shaping them. I prefer a bit shorter block on smaller panels with a radius and even shorter ones for a sharp radius. Longer blocks will cover more Realestate but I find they dont cut as good because you are spreading the load out more depending on length of block. They do help on the larger panels tho because of the length. Once a panel is flat I dont think you really need the long block at that point to get scratches out. Everyone has their own way to do things.Find what works for you and do that. As long as your achieving the finish you are after I think thats what matters most.
Also when your wet sanding the paper wont want to stick anymore so a short block will allow you to wrap the sandpaper around itself and use the pressure of your had to hold the paper to the block.
Hope this answers your question.
-Dane
What's that music track on minutes 5:23? Great video👍
This video is old so im not too sure. I can tell you tho its all on youtube music. I got sick of getting copy right claims for music.
thx!!!
Love that sand it like a animal you’ll be great 👍
Your good dude. Have at it!
Good info. New sub here.👍
I dont do a lot of videos like this really but if you have questions and I can answer them please let me know. Thank you for following along!!
I do it the other way... start off with a block and then finish up with a DA
Whatever works for you man! As long as you and the customer are happy thats all that matters
You had me all the way up to wet sanding the primer. Primer is porous and holds water. If there is bare metal beneath the primer you have set yourself up for rust! Dry sand primer! Wet sand paint and clear coat. You look like you had the job done well without wet sanding. Don't put water on it to look down it for flaws. Use final wash or wax remover and spray on it.
The car was sealed before any of the high build primer was applied so it should protect the metal just fine against any moisture. Any bare metal is also spot primed in between any coats with epoxy. This is just how I get panels straight and I wanted to share it with others, to get them out in the garage trying to do it themselves. The principles still apply regardless so if your not comfortable wet sanding the high build you can just use your guide coat and sand it dry. Then like you stated you can use a prep solvent to check the panels without fear of moisture. Happy sanding man! I hope it helped at least a little. haah
Yea BITCH it was SEALED
Mypointofview 100% agree
Called tech support at Evercoat today and they do not recommend wet sanding Feather Fill G2 or Slick Sand due to absorption. They acknowledge some shops do it but they have heaters and lights and can be sure to evaporate moisture. For us DIYers, it just adds risk to the job, as if it is not 100% dry when you seal it before base coat, you may get bubbling and have a big repair job.
@@brianwick3826 If you can wetsand a whole car and then shoot it before the moisture is out of the panel you are an animal! haha.
I live in CA and its always hot so no problems with things drying but I could see how that may be an issue. Water base paint will do the same thing.... just look at all the early 2000's gm trucks.
Blue shop towel will help u feel imperfections
Yes they can help for sure. Especially if you are new to body work. They kinda magnify things a bit to make it easy to feel. Good call man.
@@Burndown i agree with everything you showed and i use the flat hand method but i move my hand back and forth multiple times with my hand traveling a distance of up to a couple feet over every inch of the panel in a straight line and all directions...also varying the speed of my hands travel..and yes sometimes a cotton clove helps to make your hand glide smoothly so you can feel waves better.. but i think a bare hand is best as long as your hand and panel is completely dry with a little dust to ensure your hand glides smoothly..you cant feel nothing if your hand is grabby and choppy sticking to the panel and not moving smoothly...also hand pressure will effect the feel so i vary that also, a nice very light touch is needed...i never liked the gun sight method using water or wax and grease remover as it never flows out perfectly like clear coat and that uneven gloss distracts from seeing the waves you are looking for...i go by feel mostly and when in doubt just go another coat of hi build primer and use long and short soft flex blocks..ive never used guide coat it loads the sand paper too much and sand paper is very expensive
When do you wet sand vs. Dry sand
typically it depends on grit of paper your using. The finer grit papers will tend to clog when you dry sand with them. You can do it but they will last longer and not clog up so quickly if you wet sand. For me I like to wet-sand anything over 220. I will dry sand clear coat to knock texture down with 1k but that ends up getting wet sanded after that. Hope this explains it a bit.
Bmw car full paint prise
Thanks for the comment
If you're going to use your hand to rub around and feel the primer, maybe take that gougy ring off your finger.
why are you using a small block in stead of a long block? Using a small block is not going to make that panel flat and even.
This video is not on shaping a panel. Its on sanding the last round of primer before you paint. Have a look at my portfolio videos. All the cars were done by me using this same technique.
Says not to sand with the block straight, proceeds to sand with the block straight. So confused. :D
H2Oskiaddict always at an angel. Never with the edge of the paper going the same direction you are sanding. If you turn the block and sand in a cris cross style pattern you should be good. You’ll know if you sanded wrong because you’ll cut lines in your panel with the edge of the paper.
Listen guys if you block a panel ? Do it with a block at least as long as ya forearm. The way this cats doing it youll never be razor straight from the palm block hes using.
Thanks for watching. If you would like to see how the cars I do turn out feel free to look at my portfolio videos.
5 YEARS later : I'm still currently block sanding the side of my house will hopefully wet sand by next year 🙃😅
All Jokes aside THANK YOU , short informative and simple 👏 👌 🤙😎
This is one of my earlier videos but when I made it I couldn't find any videos on sanding your high build top coat. I have had all kinds of comments on this but its how I still do it today. Im glad you liked the video. Thank you
Man get a interface pad if your gonna haze with that da. And a long block not a palm block
Did you watch the video or are you commenting on the thumbnail?
Lol how you doing!!!@@@@ haha
HAHA
Why do this kind of video maker doesn't show how to apply and sand out putty in criticle place like curve line,they only show it on a flat surface which is easy to do...
I did this part of the car because its easy to see for filming and explain. Compound curves and body lines on say a fender are harder to do yes and are a little different technique. I could probably make a video if you need it explained to ya? I got away form videos like this but I could throw one up if it would help.
-Dane
Lol no
Yep
First of all remove all jewelry when block sanding or you will put grooves in primer. Second learn how to manage a spray can. If your spray can skills are a clue then the car prob hasn't been primed correctly. What kind of airline drier do have? Is the primer full of moisture now that will show up in a couple years as bubbles? Show people the basics first. Auto painter for 30 years....
That small block on that big panel wont look good just a fyi
You can see the finished product if you look it up or several other complete cars I have done on here.type in 1986 bronco in the search bar. I’m not shaping the panel if that’s what your referring to. Thanks for the advice tho.
Ur knocking down primer with that palm block it may seem good enough but we all know that panel looks ripply😕
When i was a noob i did what u did and then i used the longest block possible to cover the areas as uniforn as possible and it looked good and if u use a linear block sheeshh game over ull have the straightest panel ever
Ok Chip Foose
Wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong!
You're using a good product that will achieve what you're describing of in regards to getting it straight as an arrow and take care of minor imperfections as well. However, your block is way to small, probably shouldn't be using the DA either, and dam sure not wet sand the POLYESTER primer filler. That shit it basically spray on Bondo, that is pretty much a sponge absorbing all moisture straight down to the metal substrate, thusly you will for sure be having corrosion and adhesion problems real soon. You wouldn't put anything of the sort on Bondo, and so think about it. 🤔
...why do the POLYESTER as such? You must understand Body filler (Bondo) is a polyester resin infused product.
Dam do-it yourselfers always out there on RUclips giving the wrong advice on professional matters. The positive sentiment is there, but the right advice is not.
Top coat that shit with a urethane primer surfacer before wet sanding!
Im just sharing how I do things man. Never said it was the only way, or even the best way. You can go look at my paint videos if you would like to see how my cars turn out. I have never had an issue with any of my work. I could not find a decent video for finishing high build primer so I put this together one day. Just think of my channel like your watching Jerry Springer and you'll fell better about it 🤣 I also have a power glide transmission rebuild video too. Lots of hate on that one as well, but its in my car and seems to be working fine so I don't know what all the fuss is about.
-Dane
If you know how to do this properly why are you watching a how-to video on RUclips?
@@Burndown I'm just giving you shit brutha. Thanks for sharing. Onward and upward!
@@johnp82 cause I spend my life cruising the internet to right the wrongs of this evil world. Makes me feel good to pull others down to prop myself up. Think I'll go check your channel out now. 🤔🤣😂