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Awesome 👏

Neat. Clean. Precise. But you think copper line is not good?

I was looking for some info..i usually dont activate base... the times i did i noticed the paint is very resistant to chipping...but what i dint know is..with activated base...whats the recoat window??how long after the base do you got to clear?

are you using a 1.3 tip for the Clear coat or another configuration. Thx

What size tip are you using on that ls-400. 1.5. That gun laid down clear so nice and I was always under the assumption the ls-400 atomized to fine for clear.

Superrrrr

Now the reverse: I have it on my VW Atlas rear quarters. Now how do I get rid of it? I’ve been sanding, wet sanding, all very carefully to not let anything burn through the clear. Now that I have the answer as to what the hell happened I need help trying to get rid of it

What’s the recommendation DA throw to use 5 or 3mm?

If u put filler over Metal and SEAL it with Epoxy, ITS SEALED

very nice.what clear do you use

curious what clear you use

Effing love that color

Thanks for info

Terrible audio. Too bad

So the filler edge is it right on the body line on the center of the trunk ?

What primer is going on top of the 2050 before base?

What tip size are you using for the basecoat with the J7

Where can I purchase a white guide coat?

Thats not good ...... your bound to make the block not str8 ...pulling off glu an plastic ...like u are warping it

where do we find that little block? the double sided block..

Klasss

So how long should we wait for out clear to dry an till cut and polishing

Some TDS sheets for the application have a better detailed information given for example one coat amount of flash time a second coat amount of flash time and a third coat amount of flash time to help with error of whoever is using it

A few months

👍✌️

I never thought this would ever have to be explained

Your Bondo is gonna crack or bubble. You cannot put Bondo over guide coat. Guide coat is slippery and not adhesive.

Your vids are good and long and u actually show work and steps ima keep watching them

Very good explanation

Im 59 and yesterday i painted my first full resto car. I have done my apprenticeship on you tube lol and so very recently finally learned/understood how and why i got solvent pop in past. My previous issues with painting have mostly been solved by understanding the basics. Flash times are critical as a minimum and from what i have learned a general rule of thumb is to add an extra 10 mins to every coat. ie 15 min, 25 min, 35 min, 45 min and so on between coats (with correct painting temperature). For my two bobs worth, everything in this video is spot on. Not baking is interesting and makes sense, however leave exhaust fan on long after painting is done so as solvents cant drop down onto fresh paint and react possibly causing pop.

spot on, but DIYers still wont get it, and argue just coz they can. These PPl argue only coz they dont ave the experience, they dont argue co they personally experienced it, theyve either watched another video, or read a TDS. One question I do have tough, Have you actually put 4 to 6 coats of clear on a job, regardless of how good that might sound, I believe anything after 3 coats, thats even too much, but after 3 coats, that job is always going to be and look worse than max 3 layers. specially due to the reasons ou just explained, it will never cure and harden properly, and even if it was a bonnet, its never as flat as 2 good layers. to talk about 5 to 6 layers of clear, is just ridiculous.

Need to get a mic to hang on your shirt.

You put out a ton of really well tested and explained information. Thanks for taking the time to share it with all of us.

Concrete cures as well....

Hi Brother About the flash time you said five coat mean start for base to clear

Great info !

Facts ! Education is Key !

People need to keep in mind that most of the paint and body supplies these companies manufacture are geared towards the collision side not restorations. They are always designing new products to increase productivity. That's their bread and butter, not restorations unless they want to sponsor some eye candy at SEMA or other shows. That's why I don't understand why resto guys knock the collision industry. A lot of products and techniques start there, get the bugs worked out then filter to the restorations. I've introduced quite a few techniques for efficiency and newer products into the resto shop I've worked at. Gotta have a quality/quantity balance. It's a tough line to walk sometimes. Great info by the way.

DAM, HOMIE 🎉 have a great n safe 4

How soon is too soon? Just wait 24hrs?

Excellent vids Colten .. are the clear liner flex blocks that you used in this video the same as the blue liner flex blocks . Iam just curious, Thanks

Here in Glendale Arizona that paint would have dried in 3 minutes at the high temperature of 117 degrees for us the next ten days we will be from 113 to 117 or higher

it's crazy i just watched D.I.Y Auto schools channel and his saying totally the opposite thing (maybe a bit old school in his way of thinking?) however I'm with you on this one epoxy is there to seal up metal then once sealed you work on top of that and to me that makes far more sense.. I'm even going epoxy, body filler, epoxy over the body filler and then final paint might be over kill but in the 40 series Landcruiser world most people seem to go this route

If you’re not using a crud thug over your metal on the rust of course filler and epoxy will come off numb nuts. At the end of the day, metal has a way of being prepped period. If you don’t do it right in any area, your epoxy will peel as well.

Body filler on bare metal is a faster way and better way of working old schools because if your metal is not prepped correctly to 80 grit sand paper at minimum, epoxy can peel just like filler. Saying filler shouldn’t go on bare metal is B.S my guy.

When you say shrunk a lot- does it have the small orange peel with the usual orange peel?

Beautiful. I'm glad to see someone giving another old car the star treatment. It's going to be a good time riding around in this living room on wheels.

How do you mix your dplv as a sealer. There is nothing in the TDS about mixing it as such. I have used it as a sealer mixed 2:1:2 just curious how you mix it

I used to think that was a myth, since I was born... NOT ANYMORE 😮

with as much as you guys paint and especially painting cars apart, it would be a good investment to switch to a side or true downdraft booth to eliminate the air flow/overspray issue.