People need to keep in mind that most of the paint and body supplies these companies manufacture are geared towards the collision side not restorations. They are always designing new products to increase productivity. That's their bread and butter, not restorations unless they want to sponsor some eye candy at SEMA or other shows. That's why I don't understand why resto guys knock the collision industry. A lot of products and techniques start there, get the bugs worked out then filter to the restorations. I've introduced quite a few techniques for efficiency and newer products into the resto shop I've worked at. Gotta have a quality/quantity balance. It's a tough line to walk sometimes. Great info by the way.
Some TDS sheets for the application have a better detailed information given for example one coat amount of flash time a second coat amount of flash time and a third coat amount of flash time to help with error of whoever is using it
@@linearblockingtools4064 It actually is Concrete is a complex chemical reaction that produces heat...Your content is great..Always look forward to your videos..
Im 59 and yesterday i painted my first full resto car. I have done my apprenticeship on you tube lol and so very recently finally learned/understood how and why i got solvent pop in past. My previous issues with painting have mostly been solved by understanding the basics. Flash times are critical as a minimum and from what i have learned a general rule of thumb is to add an extra 10 mins to every coat. ie 15 min, 25 min, 35 min, 45 min and so on between coats (with correct painting temperature). For my two bobs worth, everything in this video is spot on. Not baking is interesting and makes sense, however leave exhaust fan on long after painting is done so as solvents cant drop down onto fresh paint and react possibly causing pop.
spot on, but DIYers still wont get it, and argue just coz they can. These PPl argue only coz they dont ave the experience, they dont argue co they personally experienced it, theyve either watched another video, or read a TDS. One question I do have tough, Have you actually put 4 to 6 coats of clear on a job, regardless of how good that might sound, I believe anything after 3 coats, thats even too much, but after 3 coats, that job is always going to be and look worse than max 3 layers. specially due to the reasons ou just explained, it will never cure and harden properly, and even if it was a bonnet, its never as flat as 2 good layers. to talk about 5 to 6 layers of clear, is just ridiculous.
You put out a ton of really well tested and explained information. Thanks for taking the time to share it with all of us.
Thank you
Very good explanation
People need to keep in mind that most of the paint and body supplies these companies manufacture are geared towards the collision side not restorations. They are always designing new products to increase productivity. That's their bread and butter, not restorations unless they want to sponsor some eye candy at SEMA or other shows. That's why I don't understand why resto guys knock the collision industry. A lot of products and techniques start there, get the bugs worked out then filter to the restorations. I've introduced quite a few techniques for efficiency and newer products into the resto shop I've worked at. Gotta have a quality/quantity balance. It's a tough line to walk sometimes. Great info by the way.
I never thought this would ever have to be explained
Facts ! Education is Key !
Great info !
👍✌️
Some TDS sheets for the application have a better detailed information given for example one coat amount of flash time a second coat amount of flash time and a third coat amount of flash time to help with error of whoever is using it
So how long should we wait for out clear to dry an till cut and polishing
A few months
Concrete cures as well....
Not a chemical cure, but I’m no mason lol
I think concrete will cure underwater, yes
@@linearblockingtools4064 It actually is Concrete is a complex chemical reaction that produces heat...Your content is great..Always look forward to your videos..
Im 59 and yesterday i painted my first full resto car. I have done my apprenticeship on you tube lol and so very recently finally learned/understood how and why i got solvent pop in past. My previous issues with painting have mostly been solved by understanding the basics. Flash times are critical as a minimum and from what i have learned a general rule of thumb is to add an extra 10 mins to every coat. ie 15 min, 25 min, 35 min, 45 min and so on between coats (with correct painting temperature). For my two bobs worth, everything in this video is spot on. Not baking is interesting and makes sense, however leave exhaust fan on long after painting is done so as solvents cant drop down onto fresh paint and react possibly causing pop.
spot on, but DIYers still wont get it, and argue just coz they can. These PPl argue only coz they dont ave the experience, they dont argue co they personally experienced it, theyve either watched another video, or read a TDS. One question I do have tough, Have you actually put 4 to 6 coats of clear on a job, regardless of how good that might sound, I believe anything after 3 coats, thats even too much, but after 3 coats, that job is always going to be and look worse than max 3 layers. specially due to the reasons ou just explained, it will never cure and harden properly, and even if it was a bonnet, its never as flat as 2 good layers. to talk about 5 to 6 layers of clear, is just ridiculous.
Point of more coats is so you can aggressively flatten the peel. It is scary enough wet sanding three coats so good luck with blocking two coats.
@@markdrewett149 more coats needed if you start with 400 grit 🎉🎉🎉🎉. It’s a party
Need to get a mic to hang on your shirt.