Linear videos are some of the greatest how to body work/paint tutitorials on utube And, the blocks give unbelievable results. Get the blocks guys, you won't be sorry. Maybe Colton can do a video on sanding filler when going from a convex surface into a concave surface? Much like on the Chevelle body line. Thanks for posting. Great info!
I’ve recently just used CRE product I liked it a lot good build and sands decent. I am wondering it being a industrial epoxy and gets rock hard it will be flakey once dried. I’m debating on using CRE for the whole product or SPI. Have you had the chance to spray and test the SPI epoxy ? Very curious to the shrinkage and strength of SPI product.
Do you block panel-to-panel with the glass and other weight out of the doors? When you put the glass back in the door, does it change how the door shuts and lines up with panel-to-panel?
Do you do bodywork with the body OFF the frame on the rotisserie, or is it better to do all bodywork with the body on the frame? I see your videos where you paint the car on the rotisserie, any issues with performing any work on the body on the rotisserie?
That mean first filler coat is to fill the depth and glaze is used for the final coat. Just two coats of filler will be enough if you work manly the entire panel?
great video ... what do you prefer with the 3M select filler over the 3M platinum plus ? ive been using the platinum plus for a while and like it ... does 1 give you a benefit over the other... thanks for the video... Big hello from Australia
@@linearblockingtools4064 thanks for the reply will look at trying some on 68 Roadrunner i have to do a quick closed door repaint plus a engine bay, i absolutely love my blocks great tools got them threw Painttech in South Australia,saw you wearing 1 of their t shirts in a video recently .. best wishes
I been useing protec para glaze epoxy primer which is a Ppg product seems work well on wet on wet or dry sanding or blocking with filler then I been using autothane HS primer filler over the repairs which is also a Ppg product. I really like like videos and the one about filler on bare metal is a big no no
I believe you guys are here in Wisconsin but I’m not sure if your doing painting here I would like my chevelle painted I’ve seen detail and I’m convinced I’ll use the email you guys provided or keep bugging but thanks for sharing with us your work and the ingenious product
Dplv has better adhesion to bare metal and better inhibitors, the CRE is a high build epoxy for a good base to block on without burning through right away
The most clear concise tutorials ever !!!
Thanks for sharing your process. As a hobbyist I’ve followed your instructions using the blocks you sell and have achieved great results.
Great job...nobody knows the stuff that happens before you can paint ...spraying is the bonus at the end
You’re very talented with older cars and how you can level the ocean on the old panels making them straight again beautiful work you do nice job
Nice work! Thanks for all the details, I will have to do this on my 70 this summer!
Linear videos are some of the greatest how to body work/paint tutitorials on utube And, the blocks give unbelievable results. Get the blocks guys, you won't be sorry.
Maybe Colton can do a video on sanding filler when going from a convex surface into a concave surface? Much like on the Chevelle body line. Thanks for posting. Great info!
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing!
I’ve recently just used CRE product I liked it a lot good build and sands decent. I am wondering it being a industrial epoxy and gets rock hard it will be flakey once dried. I’m debating on using CRE for the whole product or SPI. Have you had the chance to spray and test the SPI epoxy ? Very curious to the shrinkage and strength of SPI product.
Do you block panel-to-panel with the glass and other weight out of the doors? When you put the glass back in the door, does it change how the door shuts and lines up with panel-to-panel?
Do you do bodywork with the body OFF the frame on the rotisserie, or is it better to do all bodywork with the body on the frame? I see your videos where you paint the car on the rotisserie, any issues with performing any work on the body on the rotisserie?
That mean first filler coat is to fill the depth and glaze is used for the final coat. Just two coats of filler will be enough if you work manly the entire panel?
If i broke through to metal and need another filler session could just 5310 or 2050 it and filler over?
Great video - I don't let that filler set up completely as it takes too long to sand concrete. Once it start to kick, block it very lightly to flat
Solid work right there
great video ...
what do you prefer with the 3M select filler over the 3M platinum plus ? ive been using the platinum plus for a while and like it ...
does 1 give you a benefit over the other...
thanks for the video...
Big hello from Australia
Thank you, the platinum select sands a little easier and spreads a lot smoother than than the plus
@@linearblockingtools4064 thanks for the reply will look at trying some on 68 Roadrunner i have to do a quick closed door repaint plus a engine bay,
i absolutely love my blocks great tools got them threw Painttech in South Australia,saw you wearing 1 of their t shirts in a video recently ..
best wishes
Do you drill the hinges with reference holes so the doors go back in the same spot? What do you do to mark the fenders?
We’ve tried that after paint they never line up anyway. We Just alot of careful assembly
Couldn't you use a high build primer?
CRE is a high build primer, but as far as filling lows like that with high build, not recommended
Why didn’t you go strait vp2050 ? Why 50lp instead
Lv has better adhesion to bare metal and better rust inhibitors than 2050 and CRE
Don't for get the clean down before filler have to remove the dust from the scratches or you don't get the adhesion Just like when you prep for paint.
Great tips thanks 😊
I been useing protec para glaze epoxy primer which is a Ppg product seems work well on wet on wet or dry sanding or blocking with filler then I been using autothane HS primer filler over the repairs which is also a Ppg product. I really like like videos and the one about filler on bare metal is a big no no
Not sure if you guys are still interested in sponsoring my RUclips channel with these as I'd love to try them out on my build soon.
Cheers Wayne
I believe you guys are here in Wisconsin but I’m not sure if your doing painting here I would like my chevelle painted I’ve seen detail and I’m convinced I’ll use the email you guys provided or keep bugging but thanks for sharing with us your work and the ingenious product
Yes we’re near birnamwood wi. Email: sales@linearblockingtools.com
Looks great
Your Bondo is gonna crack or bubble. You cannot put Bondo over guide coat. Guide coat is slippery and not adhesive.
Great show how.. but man.. thats alot of mud , cars basically bondo machine.
Any car that’s laser straight has been skimmed, cars are just not straight even from the factory
Skimming is the way any straight car is done unless your spending 100k on metal work and priming 15 times 🤷♂️
If both the Gray LP and Black CRE 921 are both Epoxies why are using the CRE on top of the LP......expense and much of the CRE will be sanded off ???
Dplv has better adhesion to bare metal and better inhibitors, the CRE is a high build epoxy for a good base to block on without burning through right away
That is not Bondo that is body filler Bondo is a brand
Way too much Bondo.
“Bondo”
"Bondo buggy."@@linearblockingtools4064