I always used a reverse primer technique when using a eurethane primer to avoid bridging over the overspray on the previous coats. My first coat being the largest coat area wise. Then successive coats smaller, thus keeping the overspray exposed on top so that it can be sanded away. This prevents micro pin holes appearing in the sealer, if used, and the basecoat. Especially in hotter weather conditions. It also puts more primer in the area needed.
I have heard of that but honestly never tried it, but simple enough, I don't see any downside to it. Sounds like a great tip! This is what so great about RUclips and social media sharing experiences and ideas and being able to pick up new techniques that for whatever reason I never picked up. Really appreciate the comment now I have something new to try.
I have used sandable Epoxy Filler for my restauration project. It works great but body shops won't use it because it takes longer to dry and sanding is harder. For a DIY project where time is not an issue Epoxy filler is a good alternative if you want best corrosion protection.
I found a niche doing affordable rust repairs and an occasional old school full paint job. I only use ployester primer and epoxy now. I can thin the polyester with acetone if I want less build. 10 percent reduced epoxy over the polyester to seal. I can do full strength epoxy over bare metal and filler/body work. There is nothing I can't do with these 2 products. On an overall (older vehicle )the reduced epoxy goes over entire car as a sealer. I let it dry. Wetsand with 600 lightly to remove any specs. Leaves a great surface for base. One gallon epoxy equals 2 gallons (plus, with reducer) product. With a low overspray gun. The amount of epoxy I use is surprisely low
Good to know, I really like the evercoat super build polyester. I plan on using it soon on a vette. I've been researching some epoxy primer to try out what brand are you using?
@@GarageNoise honestly, for these folks on a budget, whatever is affordable. Be it Kirker, Summit, Restoration shop. As long as its a 1 to 1 mix epoxy, I will use it. I know there are better brands that can be 200-300 a gallon...but nobody around me is paying that
Great information. I’ve mentioned before that I come from “the old days” and coming up on newer methods. Is there a reason you didn’t suggest an etching primer for the first coat?
Great video as always Chris, I wish our Upol primer was as versatile as yours is but as I said before it's just a surfacer and high build plus you can't tint it earther, some really useful info in the video so thanks for sharing👍 My Astro EURO PRO 1.3 arrived today, I still have my friends one here and it's a great gun for the money👌👍John UK
The epoxy I use can be force dried for 30 minutes, cool for 30 and be ready for filler. Or, wait overnight. Sanding can be done lightly after 4 hours or overnight. Downside for collision, is the 48hr period before 2k is used. . If you are interested, I'll provide the product name. I always enjoy your straight forward style. Thanks!
2k means two parts activator and primer. Epoxy gums up paper ,it can be scuffed and scratched up to apply filler or top coat with a 2k urethane primer. Epoxy is not hight build for it doesn't powder up like a 2k primer. If you need to block a panel in order to get it straight a high build 2k or polyester primers is the best option .appreciate your question! Hope this helps!
Big fan of yours, question so I’ll be painting an older car (80’s) next week and it shows some rust on the flat panels what direction should I take? Epoxy primer, epoxy sealer, dtm primer thanks
That's a good question and hard to answer without seeing it. There's many variables depending on what your looking for . Like, is it a full resto that you want perfect and to last forever or a daily driver that you just want cleaned up to look sharp or something In-between. I would say if it's showing rust you may want to consider stipping those panels and spray down a thin coat of epoxy and then 2k urethane. At least over the stripped panels. Then again in some cases if it's light surface rust it can be sanded down with a 180 and a dtm urethane primer will do the trick. Many ways to go about it.
@@GarageNoise thanks for the great advice and answering my question, I’ll take your advice of treating the damaged areas with epoxy and follow your directions thanks. Love your channel
Can you explain the difference with using the soft interface pad on the da sander compared to using the hard backing on the da sander without the soft pad, what are the differences with using the 2? Thank you
Nice video thanks for the info.i use the ure chem 2k epoxy/sealer I got some dirt nibs in it the I got covid didn’t work on the car i contacted urechem asked if I could sand it with 320 and spray my basecoat then clear coat it turned ok i got a couple runs but no big deal
Yeah, epoxy can be sanded but as you know you don't want to block it and expect it to sand like urethane. But dirt nibs no problem. Appreciate your comment and support.
@@GarageNoise heck I like your videos you are very good on explaining how the products work and gun set up. I appreciate your hard work most people see the videos and think it easy but there is so many things that can happen while you’re painting thanks again buddy
I'm very intrigued by them. I've been following a subscribers experience with one he puchased and he's getting great results once he got it dial in and got comfortable with it. He has a couple video's on it I think his channel is bear budget garage you might check it out here's a link youtube.com/@bearbudgetgarage2280?si=rf754iHIFRxT0kEv
I have purchased one of these... Fuji 5-Stage Q PLATINUM™ Series Turbine after getting priced out of paint jobs by pros for my resto and custom motorcycles. So far I have as a practice run I painted this trailer ruclips.net/video/ZQGtg2GSF9k/видео.htmlsi=cusw5YVoO1cVj0I- and some MC parts ruclips.net/video/Pmq4WXyVJJ0/видео.html I am working my way up to full paint jobs. Pulling dents, epoxy primer, body filler, urethane primer, base coat, clear coat, etc. Lots of (non-pro) videos on my channel with more to come. Ken's Garage. BTW, this is an excellent channel. Thanks Garage Noise!
@@GarageNoise Thanks for the link Garage Noise. I just watched one of his turbine videos and will go watch more. A I mentioned below I am using a Fuji turbine hoping to do full paint on motorcycles soon. You do a great job on your videos.
This was pretty informative. Thank you for doing this :) I was thinking about going with an epoxy and then a urethane on top before paint and clearcoat but I have no idea if a urethane primer is really needed in addition to the epoxy. What would you recommend? Oh yeah also what are your thoughts on Vinyl coatings?
If using epoxy does the surface have to be sanded back to metal first?. I’m about to get on to my Land Rover swb series 3 - so alloy and steel to sort. I’ll probably run out of steam if I’ve got to remove all of the old paint. What do you suggest. Love watching your stuff.
You can epoxy over properly sanded paint depending on the product your using and manufacture recommendations. Always check the Technical data sheet. It's hard to give a recommendation without seeing and evaluating the condition of paint. If you have cracks strip it for sure. Delamination of clear can sometimes be sanded smooth and primed.
Hi Chris. I’m getting ready to paint some metallic paint and I was wondering if I can seal over the old paint before applying the new paint? Thanks again and love your videos.
Can I apply epoxy resin directly to the paint with a paint brush? Actually few of my car areas are starting to be a bit rusty, especially the bottom side of the doors.
My customer brought this primer for me to use on their bare metal hood. My question is, do i need to use Epoxy Primer to seal the bare metal, or can i just use this upol primer since it's a DTM primer?
If it's upol dtm you can use it directly over the metal. Follow the technical data sheet . Needs to be sprayed over 80 grit scratch on metal and make sure it's clean.👍
Getting ready to primer, I have the summit racing products, sanded truck down to metal. Going with DTM epoxy primer, can I spray 2k primer over it without having to wait the full 4 days for the expoxy to dry? Trying to get this done in one day
What particular degreaser do you recommend after sanding before applying epoxy primer? Also, when sanding the rust off the metal, do you recommend finishing it off with a fine high grit sand paper to get it ultra smooth or it’s not necessary? Thanks!
I feel sometimes ppl throw, "pearls before swine". Someone crashed a car, then someone uses expertise, primer, sanding, colouring, sealer, polish... So the numbnut can crash the car again.
This is one that is made for wax and grease remover www.amazon.com/dp/B01BPNYUGA/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_7HD3FTQ7S9GJXGB3AMZE?linkCode=ml2&tag=garagenoise1-20 I got mine locally.
I've used those bottles. Look at al the "C" rating on everything with VOC's that matter... The spray tips are doomed over any period of time unless rinsed well. Even my diluted phos kills them within 3 days. @@GarageNoise
Got a question, been spraying epoxy primer in the shop and realized all the over spray on horizontal machines in the shop welders and such, is there a good way to remove that or just roll with it? Thanks
I dont put my filler on bare steel period always expoy first the body filler body soaks mosture i like some of what you say these chevys are notoroius for rust on the wheel well i dont know how you can say expoy isnt sandable .i expoy 2k high build then filler so the body filler has a proper seal between them if you fix your metal properly you shouldnt need alot of body filler .dtm primer isnt ment to go over bare steel if you put filler on bare steel you will get flash rust underneath your body filler. body filler starts to let go after 3 to 5 year with todays crappy metal its a must if you want it to last
I appreciate your comment. It takes forever for metal to rust under filler much longer than some of the cars last. If you look at the technical data sheet it will let you know if dtm primer can be applied over bare metal. As long as you follow those guidlines and prepare it properly you won't have a problem. Is it better to use a epoxy before filler? I would say yes, but not for the slightly added protection on collision work.
#@garagenoise Hey Chris i have been using an r500 for both base and clear with great results. It’s time to pick up another gun. I’m torn between another r500 or an EVOT13 EuroPro. Can you suggest a gun for me under 150$ ?( I’m using an 80 gallon 15.8 CFM @ 90 PSI)
Around the 1min mark you start pointing at the can labelled "epoxy" and call it urethane. Then you switch to calling it epoxy. This throws me off for the entire video. I'm personally trying to assessed whether I need to use a 2k epoxy or 2k urethane for my truck resto project.
Epoxy gets hard and is a sealer, urethane is softer and Sandable. So if epoxy is a sealer you don’t want to sand it and risk burning through it sanding it. Urethane primer filler you can burn through sanding because your going to seal over it with epoxy.
Yes, you can use epoxy primer over paint. always follow the technical data sheet for the product you're using, but in most cases you can use epoxy primer over paint. Sometimes a good option is you use an epoxy sealer. Appreciate the comment support..
I always used a reverse primer technique when using a eurethane primer to avoid bridging over the overspray on the previous coats. My first coat being the largest coat area wise. Then successive coats smaller, thus keeping the overspray exposed on top so that it can be sanded away. This prevents micro pin holes appearing in the sealer, if used, and the basecoat. Especially in hotter weather conditions. It also puts more primer in the area needed.
I have heard of that but honestly never tried it, but simple enough, I don't see any downside to it. Sounds like a great tip! This is what so great about RUclips and social media sharing experiences and ideas and being able to pick up new techniques that for whatever reason I never picked up. Really appreciate the comment now I have something new to try.
Clear and to the point. Learning still today after 25 years. Good video
I have used sandable Epoxy Filler for my restauration project. It works great but body shops won't use it because it takes longer to dry and sanding is harder. For a DIY project where time is not an issue Epoxy filler is a good alternative if you want best corrosion protection.
You're absolutely right!
I found a niche doing affordable rust repairs and an occasional old school full paint job. I only use ployester primer and epoxy now. I can thin the polyester with acetone if I want less build. 10 percent reduced epoxy over the polyester to seal. I can do full strength epoxy over bare metal and filler/body work. There is nothing I can't do with these 2 products. On an overall (older vehicle )the reduced epoxy goes over entire car as a sealer. I let it dry. Wetsand with 600 lightly to remove any specs. Leaves a great surface for base. One gallon epoxy equals 2 gallons (plus, with reducer) product. With a low overspray gun. The amount of epoxy I use is surprisely low
Good to know, I really like the evercoat super build polyester. I plan on using it soon on a vette. I've been researching some epoxy primer to try out what brand are you using?
@@GarageNoise honestly, for these folks on a budget, whatever is affordable. Be it Kirker, Summit, Restoration shop. As long as its a 1 to 1 mix epoxy, I will use it. I know there are better brands that can be 200-300 a gallon...but nobody around me is paying that
This is one of the videos that should be on RUclips. Thank you for the stimulation lol
Great information. I’ve mentioned before that I come from “the old days” and coming up on newer methods.
Is there a reason you didn’t suggest an etching primer for the first coat?
What grit do you prep your panel with for primer to stick
any comments on self etching primer like Sherwin Williams GBP E2G980?
Hi,great video.I have the Upol 4:1Primer. Should do a high build prime or just seal a aftermarket plastic bumper than came primed before painting?
I would just sand and seal it. I do somtimes like to to hit it with a light coat of adhesion promoter, just as insurance before sealer
Thanks so much for the quick response,will do.Keep the videos coming@@GarageNoise 👌
Great video as always Chris, I wish our Upol primer was as versatile as yours is but as I said before it's just a surfacer and high build plus you can't tint it earther, some really useful info in the video so thanks for sharing👍
My Astro EURO PRO 1.3 arrived today, I still have my friends one here and it's a great gun for the money👌👍John UK
👊 Appreciate the support brother!
The epoxy I use can be force dried for 30 minutes, cool for 30 and be ready for filler. Or, wait overnight. Sanding can be done lightly after 4 hours or overnight. Downside for collision, is the 48hr period before 2k is used. . If you are interested, I'll provide the product name.
I always enjoy your straight forward style. Thanks!
Yeah absolutely, give me the name. I'm alway looking for good products . Appreciate the comment and support brother!
@@GarageNoise I tried 3x but it never showed up. Like it was deleted.
@@GarageNoise Southern Polyurethanes Inc.
What primer do you recommend for painting chrome wheels, after they have been sanded
What does "2k" mean, and why is the epoxy not sandable?
Thanks for your videos and explanations.
2k means two parts activator and primer. Epoxy gums up paper ,it can be scuffed and scratched up to apply filler or top coat with a 2k urethane primer. Epoxy is not hight build for it doesn't powder up like a 2k primer. If you need to block a panel in order to get it straight a high build 2k or polyester primers is the best option .appreciate your question! Hope this helps!
Thanks for all the primer tips. Great video
You bet!
Big fan of yours, question so I’ll be painting an older car (80’s) next week and it shows some rust on the flat panels what direction should I take? Epoxy primer, epoxy sealer, dtm primer thanks
That's a good question and hard to answer without seeing it. There's many variables depending on what your looking for . Like, is it a full resto that you want perfect and to last forever or a daily driver that you just want cleaned up to look sharp or something In-between. I would say if it's showing rust you may want to consider stipping those panels and spray down a thin coat of epoxy and then 2k urethane. At least over the stripped panels. Then again in some cases if it's light surface rust it can be sanded down with a 180 and a dtm urethane primer will do the trick. Many ways to go about it.
@@GarageNoise thanks for the great advice and answering my question, I’ll take your advice of treating the damaged areas with epoxy and follow your directions thanks. Love your channel
I’m basically doing the same job on my mk 2 right now. What is your solution for getting the speedo cable length to fit?
Can you explain the difference with using the soft interface pad on the da sander compared to using the hard backing on the da sander without the soft pad, what are the differences with using the 2? Thank you
Nice video thanks for the info.i use the ure chem 2k epoxy/sealer I got some dirt nibs in it the I got covid didn’t work on the car i contacted urechem asked if I could sand it with 320 and spray my basecoat then clear coat it turned ok i got a couple runs but no big deal
Yeah, epoxy can be sanded but as you know you don't want to block it and expect it to sand like urethane. But dirt nibs no problem. Appreciate your comment and support.
@@GarageNoise heck I like your videos you are very good on explaining how the products work and gun set up. I appreciate your hard work most people see the videos and think it easy but there is so many things that can happen while you’re painting thanks again buddy
Wondering your thoughts a turbine system , just picked one up seems to work pretty good
I'm very intrigued by them. I've been following a subscribers experience with one he puchased and he's getting great results once he got it dial in and got comfortable with it. He has a couple video's on it I think his channel is bear budget garage you might check it out here's a link youtube.com/@bearbudgetgarage2280?si=rf754iHIFRxT0kEv
I have purchased one of these... Fuji 5-Stage Q PLATINUM™ Series Turbine after getting priced out of paint jobs by pros for my resto and custom motorcycles. So far I have as a practice run I painted this trailer ruclips.net/video/ZQGtg2GSF9k/видео.htmlsi=cusw5YVoO1cVj0I- and some MC parts ruclips.net/video/Pmq4WXyVJJ0/видео.html I am working my way up to full paint jobs. Pulling dents, epoxy primer, body filler, urethane primer, base coat, clear coat, etc. Lots of (non-pro) videos on my channel with more to come. Ken's Garage. BTW, this is an excellent channel. Thanks Garage Noise!
@@GarageNoise Thanks for the link Garage Noise. I just watched one of his turbine videos and will go watch more. A I mentioned below I am using a Fuji turbine hoping to do full paint on motorcycles soon. You do a great job on your videos.
@@KensGarage1 Thank brother! Appreciate the support!
This was pretty informative. Thank you for doing this :)
I was thinking about going with an epoxy and then a urethane on top before paint and clearcoat but I have no idea if a urethane primer is really needed in addition to the epoxy. What would you recommend?
Oh yeah also what are your thoughts on Vinyl coatings?
If using epoxy does the surface have to be sanded back to metal first?. I’m about to get on to my Land Rover swb series 3 - so alloy and steel to sort. I’ll probably run out of steam if I’ve got to remove all of the old paint. What do you suggest. Love watching your stuff.
You can epoxy over properly sanded paint depending on the product your using and manufacture recommendations. Always check the Technical data sheet. It's hard to give a recommendation without seeing and evaluating the condition of paint. If you have cracks strip it for sure. Delamination of clear can sometimes be sanded smooth and primed.
If I am going to work on 1 or 2 panels a weekend, what primer/filler/concerns should I be aware of?
Your main concern would be to not leave bare metal without primer. That's really it
Hi Chris. I’m getting ready to paint some metallic paint and I was wondering if I can seal over the old paint before applying the new paint?
Thanks again and love your videos.
Yes you can as long as you sand it properly.
@@GarageNoise Thank you Chris. It’s a restoration project and the old paint is about 25 years old. Thanks again
Chris how long of a window do I have before I need to sand sealer?
@@dxrcat not long it's not like epoxy, it's designed to be top coated with base after it flash off 10min
The best primer and the only 100% waterproof primer is EPOXY !!!! Always had been the best and will be the best
True it's the only water poof primer (kinda) it's not always the best option depends on the situation.
Can I apply epoxy resin directly to the paint with a paint brush? Actually few of my car areas are starting to be a bit rusty, especially the bottom side of the doors.
My customer brought this primer for me to use on their bare metal hood. My question is, do i need to use Epoxy Primer to seal the bare metal, or can i just use this upol primer since it's a DTM primer?
If it's upol dtm you can use it directly over the metal. Follow the technical data sheet . Needs to be sprayed over 80 grit scratch on metal and make sure it's clean.👍
Getting ready to primer, I have the summit racing products, sanded truck down to metal. Going with DTM epoxy primer, can I spray 2k primer over it without having to wait the full 4 days for the expoxy to dry? Trying to get this done in one day
For the technical data sheet for the epoxybyour spraying. What brand prime are you usig? Product #
@@GarageNoise SUM-UP230G
What particular degreaser do you recommend after sanding before applying epoxy primer? Also, when sanding the rust off the metal, do you recommend finishing it off with a fine high grit sand paper to get it ultra smooth or it’s not necessary? Thanks!
He doesn't answer comments
I feel sometimes ppl throw, "pearls before swine". Someone crashed a car, then someone uses expertise, primer, sanding, colouring, sealer, polish... So the numbnut can crash the car again.
👍
which pump sprayer do you use for wax and grease remover. all the ones i’ve bought deteriorate after a week or 2
This is one that is made for wax and grease remover www.amazon.com/dp/B01BPNYUGA/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_7HD3FTQ7S9GJXGB3AMZE?linkCode=ml2&tag=garagenoise1-20
I got mine locally.
I've used those bottles. Look at al the "C" rating on everything with VOC's that matter... The spray tips are doomed over any period of time unless rinsed well. Even my diluted phos kills them within 3 days. @@GarageNoise
Got a question, been spraying epoxy primer in the shop and realized all the over spray on horizontal machines in the shop welders and such, is there a good way to remove that or just roll with it?
Thanks
You can wipe it off right after with reducer on sometimes isopropyl alcohol. After it dries it's much more difficult
@@GarageNoise Looks like I’ll be taking the difficult route lol thanks for the input!
BAG IT @@daltonminckley5929
I have a 2001 TA, With plastic Bumpers. I need all the Help I can get
This channels made for you brother! Let me know if you have questions.
I dont put my filler on bare steel period always expoy first the body filler body soaks mosture i like some of what you say these chevys are notoroius for rust on the wheel well i dont know how you can say expoy isnt sandable .i expoy 2k high build then filler so the body filler has a proper seal between them if you fix your metal properly you shouldnt need alot of body filler .dtm primer isnt ment to go over bare steel if you put filler on bare steel you will get flash rust underneath your body filler. body filler starts to let go after 3 to 5 year with todays crappy metal its a must if you want it to last
I appreciate your comment. It takes forever for metal to rust under filler much longer than some of the cars last. If you look at the technical data sheet it will let you know if dtm primer can be applied over bare metal. As long as you follow those guidlines and prepare it properly you won't have a problem. Is it better to use a epoxy before filler? I would say yes, but not for the slightly added protection on collision work.
I have a lvlp gravity feed with 1.3mm nozzle. Is that ok?
For the upol?
#@garagenoise
Hey Chris i have been using an r500 for both base and clear with great results. It’s time to pick up another gun. I’m torn between another r500 or an EVOT13 EuroPro. Can you suggest a gun for me under 150$ ?( I’m using an 80 gallon 15.8 CFM @ 90 PSI)
UPOL2253 says it requires an acid etch ?
Thanks for sharing 👍 looking great like always 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Question. What's a wet bed
So filler will adhere to 2k epoxy without sanding?
You want to scuff it up where your doing the filler with 180 or 80 I use 80 but always check the Technical fata sheet for the product your using.
¡GREAT VIDEO AND THANKYOU FORTHIS INFORMATION !! GREETINGS FROM PERU
Around the 1min mark you start pointing at the can labelled "epoxy" and call it urethane. Then you switch to calling it epoxy. This throws me off for the entire video. I'm personally trying to assessed whether I need to use a 2k epoxy or 2k urethane for my truck resto project.
This guy in the video is an idiot
Epoxy gets hard and is a sealer, urethane is softer and Sandable. So if epoxy is a sealer you don’t want to sand it and risk burning through it sanding it. Urethane primer filler you can burn through sanding because your going to seal over it with epoxy.
Can you use epoxy primer over paint.
Yes, you can use epoxy primer over paint. always follow the technical data sheet for the product you're using, but in most cases you can use epoxy primer over paint. Sometimes a good option is you use an epoxy sealer.
Appreciate the comment support..
Metalik boya boyarken içine epoksi koyulabilir mi saygılar
Explain further, not following
Can I spray polyurethane over an epoxy primer?
A polyurethane primer or clear coat?
Have u used upol reface?
I haven't but would like to try it. If I do I'll make a video.
@@GarageNoise awesome thanks
Nice work
Very educative thanks
You are welcome
Thanks again very interesting
The *R802 does not seem to exist any longer...
Here it is
amzn.to/3TEYs0W
That clearly reads "HVLP" Not LOW.... @@GarageNoise
Good
👍
They should really call it Epoxy DTM sealer not primer.
Very confusing. did you use epoxy or urethane? 0:55 at the beginning of the video you point a epoxy and call it urethane.