How To Make Spoilboard For Longmill CNC Router (and review) - Garrett Fromme
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- This video talks about how to make a spoilboard for the Longmill CNC router. It also talks about how to square the machine during assembly. Making a spoilboard (also known as ‘waste board”) is important so you protect the table your router is mounted to.
This video tutorial explains all the steps to making a spoil board the right way to accommodate clamps and positioning This video is also a short review of the Longmill CNC router.
It also covers using v bits, surfacing bits, and down cut router bits you will use on your CNC router. The bits discussed are the 3/16 inch down bit, 120-degree v-bit, and surfacing bit.
LONGMILL CNC ROUTER WEBSITE: sienci.com/?re...
Rivet Nuts for Spoilboard: amzn.to/3qnRFrM
Spoilboard G-code on Etsy: etsy.me/3ttMTdN
#LONGMILL #longmillcncrouter #cnc #cncrouters #cncforbeginners #vcarvetutorials #vectric
------------------------------------------------------
CNC ROUTER BITS DISCUSSED IN THIS VIDEO
→ 3-pc 1/8" Up-cutting Drilling bit: bit.ly/3gPqNOf
→ 3/16" Down Cutting Bit: bit.ly/2U0eVQA
→ 120-degree V-bit: bit.ly/2TYlCCy
→ 1” Surfacing bit required for surfacing your spoil board: bit.ly/2QEYLKz
▲ Surfacing bit Feeds & Speeds: • CNC Router Spoilboard ...
▲How to write a surfacing program: • BobsCNC Evolution 4 Sp...
▲ Uses for the surfacing bit: • Best Surfacing Bit For...
------------------------------------------------------
ROUTER BITS FOR CNC ROUTERS
→ 8-pc carbide CNC router bit set (w/ free vector files) bit.ly/3d1iQnF
→ Glass engraving drag bit: bit.ly/3tRy98s
------------------------------------------------------
OTHER ‘MUST HAVES’ FOR CNC ROUTERS
→ Calipers: amzn.to/338MAt3
→ Hearing protection (plugs don't work): amzn.to/2Hs1RgW
------------------------------------------------------
MAKE YOUR OWN CLAMPS, G-CODE ON ETSY: etsy.me/3jbHp4e
IDC Woodcraft Etsy Store: etsy.me/3wPpyUK
------------------------------------------------------
DISCOUNTED CNC PRODUCTS
Starbond CA Glue Products
GET 10% OFF when you use this discount code: IDCWOODCRAFT
Starbond link: bit.ly/3g81RRU
---------------------------------------------
MAKING MONEY WITH A CNC
Words are the top-selling items of all time with CNC products. Get the free WORDS THAT SELL list: idcwoodcraft.c...
Join CNC ENTREPRENEURS Facebook group: / cncentrepreneurs
------------------------------------------------------
CNC FREE STUFF AND MORE
CNC Insiders sign up (free files and more): idcwoodcraft.c...
------------------------------------------------------
NEW TO CNC OR STUCK IN A PROJECT?
Schedule one-on-one time with me: idcwoodcraft.c...
------------------------------------------------------
PLAYLISTS
CNC FOR BEGINNERS: bit.ly/3rg4WTl
CNC ENTREPRENEURS: bit.ly/3mxz6Ok
VECTRIC VCARVE & ASPIRE TUTORIALS FOR BEGINNERS: bit.ly/3pdmFsi
------------------------------------------------------
If you currently own a CNC router, please take a moment to take this survey to share your experience with it: bit.ly/3r5XzNh
------------------------------------------------------
Cool vector files for CNC router & CNC laser: etsy.me/3oxX79l
------------------------------------------------------
Learn how to start an online business from scratch: bit.ly/2ZUEIKK
------------------------------------------------------
CNC FOR BEGINNERS PODCAST: anchor.fm/cnc-...
------------------------------------------------------
OTHER WAYS TO SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL
→ LIKE the video
→ COMMENT about the video
→ DONATE: www.paypal.me/...
→ PURCHASE through links I provide in these descriptions. I receive affiliate commissions and the cost is the same to you.
------------------------------------------------------
Garrett Fromme
Facebook: IDCWoodc...
Website: www.idcwoodcraft.com
Email: support@idcwoodcraft.com
![KAYTRANADA - Witchy (feat. Childish Gambino) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jGK3YVmGZ3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Garrett, I purchased the Long Mill CNC MK 2 30x30 on the 9th of this month after watching a couple of
your You Tube videos. I had been thinking of getting a CNC but was unsure of which one to buy, let alone if I could
even learn to program and use one. After watching more of your videos I ‘m sure I will learn more and enjoy using my CNC. You are a great instructor.
Larry, I am so happy to hear that my videos helped narrow down your CNC choice brother! CNC machines can be intimidating so im glad videos like this are making things a bit easier for you brother!
Great video, I am doing a lot of research before I buy my CNC and you have convinced me to get the Longmill...I will be watching all your videos because I learn a lot from them...I have a laser engraver and I hope this knowledge will help me with my CNC...
Thank you for the videos...
Rodney, you are so welcome my friend. Welcome to the wonderful world of CNC!
Hi Garrett, I have been watching your Videos for about 2 weeks. You helped me to decide to buy a longmill cnc router. It is on order right now. I also bought some bits from IDC which actually shipped out today. It is your teaching capabilities that convinced me to buy the longmill. You have some great stuff on here. Whatever commission you get it is not enough. I am very excited to get started. I hope my machine comes soon. but until then i will be watching your videos nightly, absorbing as much as i can, until it shows. Keep up the awesome work.
Hi JT. I'm excited for you to get into this! And thank you for the compliments regarding the videos. keep watching and studying the software. When you get your machine, the magic really starts!
Btw, When you ordered your longmill, I hope you used the link I have.
I"ve been watching many of your videos and after much research and your videos, I made the decision to buy the Longmill CNC machine. I purchased the machine last month (February) and I'm to expect delivery mid to late March. I have my table constructed and anxiously waiting to get started. I've learned so much from you videos. You do a great job and make it easy for an old dog to learn a new trick! I'm hoping you get credit for the sale - I had a little problem getting into my Google account. . . ? But I let the company know that you we instrumental in my decision to purchase the Longmill CNC. Thank You
Hi Keith. fpor some reason, this comment was pushed to a 'hold for review' spot in YT. I don't check that often so only saw your comment just now. I'm sorry I missed it.
Anyway, I want to say confrats for taking the plunge, and thank you for considering using the link I have. Tes, I get a little commision when it is used. Thanks for being sure to let them know. they are pretty good about responding to that. Now comes the wait. I'm waiting on mine as well. Ugh...we wait together.
I ordered my longmill machine today and used your link I appreciate all the info that I get from your videos
Congrats on ordering your longmill brother! And thank you for using my links, I appreciate it my friend!
Well done, thank you for sharing this with us today from Henrico County Virginia
Norm, my pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Thanks Garrett, especially for the squaring up tip.
Hey Wes, you're welcome.
Excellent! I stumbled onto this video at the perfect time. I've built my table and I'm about a month out from ordering this exact Longmill. I've been building guitars for years and now I'm going to integrate CNC into the process. I started watching every RUclips video I could find on getting started and this one is perfect. I'll use your link when I buy my Longmill and to buy bits. Thanks so much for this information. I've subscribed to your channel and will join your FB page.
Jane, welcome aboard brother! Thanks for the kind words my friend. And I appreciate you considering me with your longmill purchase and supporting me and what I do. Happy creating my friend!
We have ordered our Long Mill CNC MK2 30x30 and looking forward to the setup and making signs.
Congrats on ordering your machine brother! I'm looking forward to you getting it in hand and seeing what you create!
No sure if you saw the new Longmill 30X30 router the front and back legs have changed. So the measurements are a little different. This video is great and will help me get a great start in my CNC adventure! Thanks!
dcar, yes you're absolutely right about the slight change in dimensions for the MK2! I'm glad the video was helpful my friend, happy cutting!
I loved the video on making of the spoil board. I haven't started in the CNC business yet, but I'm looking forward to it.
James, thanks for watching brother! Glad you've been enjoying the videos!
Well on the content of Garrets video i bought a 30 x 30 machine to start my adventure in vCNC
woodworking, Wish me luck. i bought this one because of its engineering as like Garret i am a retired engineer.
Wow Bruce. You decided to go for it. I'm glad you're going for the Longmill. Send me your email. I have a gift for you. Send to garrett@idcwoodcraft.com
Thanks! You saved me my bit! I was doing the back side of the spoilboard and hit my clamps twice on the doing the holes on the underside. Glad I took the time to make the wooden ones you have been talking about!
dcar1234, nice! I'm glad you went with the wood clamps too, it will definitely save your bits over the years of cutting!
Hello Garrett
so I finally decided to go with the long mill Great video
Hey Joker. Awesome! You've decided to take the plunge. I will have many videos coming to help you with it!
Don;t forget the use the link on my website or in the videos descriptions. thank you.
Well done, Garrett.
Thanks Ica!!
Thank you Garrett.... You are covering a lot of information that, really I did not think that I did not have to go over before the first cut....
Michael, there is much to know, for sure. I'm working on getting all my knowledge out there so your CNC hourney goes as smooth as possible.
Thanks Garrett. Spoilboard looks great.
Hey Rob. Thanks. It definitely has all the bells and whistles. however, not sure I'd paint it again.
I love that grid
It was a lot of work for sure.
Great content!
thanks Bucky
So I'm about halfway through this process and I will say I recommend going through this to anyone whether they think they need the board or not. In the process I:
Ruined my first board as the corners weren't squared
Overthought the machine squaring process as it was square when I set up, I adjusted to my board which threw it off, so I had to re-do
Found out how many nuts and bolts weren't tight enough as I watched the router shimmy through the process.
Learned a lot more about my machine and am glad it happened with a spoilboard and not a job I would be devastated if I screwed up.
John, this is such a good statement to doing things in the right order. I've seen way too many projects ruined because of jumping too far ahead of the game. Thank you for sharing this.
Nicely done. Really want to take the plunge and get this machine.
Hey Mike. Sounds like you're ready to start CNC'ing. What kind of projects do you want to make?
Don't have a long mill myself but fascinating to watch your spoil-board installation & how you got over all those problems thanks
Hey Pod. It's definitely a challenge sometime. Glad you're entertained at my boo boos lol
podman63, I'm glad you found it fascinating! The spoil-board installation can definitely come with its challenges, but it’s all part of the learning process.
My MK2 is to arrive by end of May. Thanks for the spoil board review. I am currently using a riv-nut spoil board I made for mt 3018 ( 4x smaller ). I like yours.
UnitasChoir, glad you like it! It definitely does the job, I'm excited for you to get your Longmill!
Looks like a beast... sooooooo close to pulling the trigger and buying one, just need to work out actual cost with freight/tax/customs landed in Australia
Hi Jamie. I think they have the cost worked out pretty well when you check out. Make sure you use the link I have when you finally pull the trigger. Wanna know a secret...you already pulled the trigger in your mind. the action always takes a day or 2 to follow.
I enjoy your video
Sara, thanks sister! I'm glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing. I wouldn’t design my spoilboard grid the way you had but it might be beneficial for cutting cylindrical pieces which are already cylindrical but require centering on the board. Very cool to see the board painted black with mdf markings.
Justin, you're so welcome brother! That's a fair point about the circles my friend.
Fantastic video. Looking forward to many other videos from you. I am very green to CNC machine. Looking very forward to learning a lot from you. Thanks for your videos
Hi Mr. D. thank you. I have a lot of those videos out here for you and will be making more as we go.
I'm rewatching this video again...and again......and again. Doing the spoil board now but I am applying polyurethane on the board that it sits on. I didn't get any set screws to put in place of the long m5 bolts so I just used the m5's.
I also ordered the limit switches. Mr. Garret didn't mention this but if you ordered the limit switches too it is imperative to get the set screws he speaks of. Needless to say, when I got to the step to put the switches in the length of the m5 bolt reared its ugly head on the z-axis severely limiting the height of the router which interfered with the switch being used! Without the proper set screws it makes the limit switches USELESS and they really should be sent by longmill OR put in the directions. That cost me an extra weekend and I thank him for speaking of that.
Iwannaapple, man I'm sorry those bolts gave you such a hassel! I think this gets a lot of people! You're totally right, I wish they would include them with the machine or in the instructions!
Great tips and help on squaring and making the spoilboard. Thanks!
Hi Steve. You're welcome.
Garrett, a suggestion regarding spoilboards... when you construct the base, I would have a low section in the area where the spoil board is located. In that area you then install maybe 4 or 5 lengths of nice straight 2 x 4 lumber on the flat, such that the tops of the lumber are about flush to the top of the current framework. Countersink the screws nice and deep. Now take the router and lightly surface only the 2 x 4s, which is a lot less mess and dust than surfacing your mdf. With the 2 x 4s surfaced, all you need to do now is to install your mdf on top of the 2 x 4s with a few countersunk screws and you're done. The mdf is smooth and flat and level. The idea now, is to use the router without destroying the spoil board. If you are cutting through the workpiece, put some spacers under the workpiece or use a piece of 1/4" something as a sacrifice material. If you ever move the machine and need to re-level it, then remove the mdf and re-plane the 2 x4s and then re-install the mdf, using the same screw holes etc. The 'spoil board' should actually last for years doing it this way. The 2 x 4s are easily replaced at some future time for only a few dollars and a couple hours of work.
Hi Peter. Great suggestion. that can save the spoil board for a time for sure. I'll consider a video in the future for this idea.
@@IDCWoodcraft Ya, I got that idea from a friend a few years back. In the next few months I hope to purchase the new Longmill Mk2 and of course I'll have to make a stand for it. I would make a wooden stand with room for 2 - 3 drawers under the mill for cutter storage etc. The top frame would be made using 2 x 6 lumber but I'd have a depressed area at the front and back about 1-1/2" deep to lay a few nice straight 2 x 4s across, front to back 4"- 5" apart. Screw them down and then surface the 2 x4s - after the stand is positioned and leveled of course. With the 2 x 4s surfaced then secure the 3/4 mdf on top. In reality the mdf should never need to be replaced, if you don't cut into it. If you're cutting through your workpiece then put some 3/8 - 1/2" plywood spacers under the workpiece, where you have each clamp, that's all you need. If you're cutting through then use some 3D tabs on the workpiece to hold it in place. I use Vectric for my g-code work, it's a bullet proof fantastic program.
For clamping my workpiece to the spoil board, I use wood thread inserts, inserted from the top of the spoil board.... something like this... www.amazon.ca/Socket-Inserts-Threaded-Insert-Furniture/dp/B08LQGZGR5/ref=sr_1_8?crid=V6GTUZ27LTA8&keywords=wood+threaded+inserts&qid=1643058225&sprefix=wood+thread%2Caps%2C204&sr=8-8 they can be positioned where ever you need them, you can remove them if not needed and replace them later on. Make sure to use the hex drive style. These things are bullet proof in mdf, available in various threads but I use 1/4-20.
@@peterstenabaugh6810 wow, you really have this one figured out. Impressive planning. You will send a picture of the table when it's done, won't you?
Can you do me a favor when you order Your CNC? Can you use the affiliate link that I have? It gives me a little pocket change.
@@IDCWoodcraft Absolutely, I certainly don't mind, but it wont happen until likely late summer or maybe in the fall. In fact I'll likely make up a 3D model on Solidworks and some drawings for it. So from there I'd send you a set of drawings in pdf format that you could share with your readers. I have to sell off my older, big heavy duty router table first. I need something smaller as I plan on moving next summer (2023).
If I get the product for the same price, there's no reason why you shouldn't get slice after doing all that advertising for them. I enjoyed your video but I kinda cringed when you spent all that time to drill 2 sides for your inserts, when there's a much easier way..... 😄 The hex drive inserts are nice as you don't need to buy too many, as long as you don't mind to move them around. Since most people will be using mdf, it's important to use inserts that have a nice sharp thread so that it cuts into the mdf. It's also important to drill the correct sized hole, but that can be done easily by testing a piece of scrap. The threaded inserts usually have a bit of a flat head on them, so I also make a shallow countersink so they don't protrude above the table. Being a machinist, I sometimes get kind of anal on accuracy in woodworking, more so than what is really needed. My table saw has an INCRA fence on it, the best in the industry, also the most expensive but it can be adjusted in increments of 0.001"......
I really like watching your videos and they really do help. As you know I have bought a Longmill because of your recommendation. I trust you.
I realize that I can do this if I load your file but I really want to know how to create my own file with cutting the board and placing the holes and
datums selecting the tool and making the pockets. Is that Possible? When we all get our new machines making the waste board is one of the first things we all have to do after setting up and getting square. I want to learn how, not just downloading what have done. Thank you for all your time making these videos. God Bless
Charles, great question! Have you watched any of my videos on VCarve? These videos should lead you in the right direction if you want to design and create your own spoilboard. Here's the links with brief descriptions below.
How to cut a profile:
ruclips.net/video/VjgljoKwZ4o/видео.html
How to cut holes:
ruclips.net/video/e7xMpL-0F_A/видео.html
How to cut gridlines:
ruclips.net/video/KTvyreaShC0/видео.html
How to surface the board:
ruclips.net/video/1Y4UonzWhSE/видео.html
Thanks. I was having trouble getting to sleep but you helped completely with this one zzzzzzzzzzzzz.
lol
uh...wha...did you say something? I was sleeping through a video. Sorry.
Just 'funing ya.'You're working too hard and too late but thanks for your dedication.
@@williamcovell6324 I know you're picking on me. All in fun.
I just assembled my new Long Mill MK 2.5 and discovered the distance between the feet to be 35.375., not 36.250. A small point perhaps but people attempting your method of squaring the Long Mill will run into the distance difference. Also, the MK 2.5 comes with the new spring-loaded anti-backlash nuts and the auto-zero touch plate that works significantly different from the old design. I broke a bit due to the more advanced auto-zero feature. Folks should exercise caution when using the new auto-zero plate.
edluna5224, Thanks for sharing your experience with the Long Mill MK 2.5! It’s great to hear you’re diving into the details, and those updates about the spring-loaded anti-backlash nuts and the auto-zero touch plate are valuable for others. You're right; any small discrepancies can affect the squaring process, so it’s helpful to be aware of them. And it's always best to proceed with caution when using new features, especially when they come with their own learning curve. Happy woodworking!
Garrett,
Just ordered my first CNC (Longmill MK2) I have been reviewing many different videos mainly yours because you give a better understanding of processes. My question is some videos show MK2 mounted on top of spoilboard and some not. what is the proper way? Do you have a video of building spoilboard with T-Tracks with grid pattern? also one other question, for beginners is it better to learn on solid one-piece spoilboard or set-up spoilboard with T-Track system?
Bruce, I would recommend not mounting your Longmill directly on the spoilboard. When you need to replace your spoilboard, you wont have to disassemble your entire machine. I would also recommend a solid one piece spoilboard starting out. You will make lots of mistakes starting out and thats what the spoilboard is there for!
good morning, My husband and I love your videos and bought a Longmill because of them. We got it last week and the tilt table yesterday. My question, out of all the spoil board design we pefer yours. Where can we find the code for it?
debbieleasure1637, Thank you so much for your support and I'm glad you're enjoying my videos! I'm happy to hear you like the spoil board design. You can find the code for it on my website under the "Downloads" section. Have fun creating with your Longmill and tilt table!
It is very nice to see everyone's different spoil boards. You can look at 50 different machine's and see almost 50 different one's. I have my machine down because I'm upgrading to a vfd and spindle. I will send you pic's to your email if you are interested in seeing my spoil board design. we all share our idea's and learn together! Thanks Garrett for all you awesome info!
Hey Mark. Definitely would like to see it.
Garrett, Best spoilboard program I have seen, I am impressed. One thing, if you don't have a Longmill unit, but instead have a different CNC, is the program adaptable to something different, such as 32" x 32" or 32" x 48"?
Jim, great question brother but the short answer is no. You'll want to use a different file or make your own my friend!
As alway, an outstanding video. Now I need to get my Longmill up and running. Thanks for the what you do!
Git 'er running my friend and then send a picture of it.
so i watched your review before i bought my longmill and after i watched this video i find out about you %. can you still get it aftet the fact
Judy, im sorry. Could you be a little bit more clear in your question?
Hi, I've been watching as many of your videos as possible and was unable to find one on tramming the router. I've watched others but they seem to miss important steps (or I'm not understanding (possible)). Can you do a video on this. Thank you.
Hey James, I have a video just on tramming. I'm not sure if you've seen this one yet but I think you'll find it super helpful! Here's the link → ruclips.net/video/5hxN7-rjEkk/видео.html.
Thanks for sharing!
You got it brother!
Mounted my machine yesterday. Corner to corner measurement was about 1/32 or less… I thought to get closer I’d have to get my calipers.
BlueEyedWolf13, congrats on getting your machine mounted brother! Right on! Happy cutting!
Nice video, very nice board. When Wii the G code be available for it. Keep up the excellent help you providing your fellow CNCers.
Just received my 30x30, wood be nice to add this board..
Hi Mike. Sorry for the delay on the board. I found I need to do more work to it. Expecting next week.
I am starting to get parts and pieces in for my Longmill 30x30 CNC system and am enjoying the videos. Being new to the CNC world I am in need of expert advice and am finding it in your videos. Thank you.
After watching your video I have been looking for the spoilboard files for the 30x30 but have only found the 30x48 files. Can I use the files for the 30x48 with only a little modification as I am really new (wet behind ears) with CNC workings?
Sorry. I was having technical difficulties with my link. Found files and purchased.
Noel, sorry I just saw this comment now. I am happy to hear you found the correct file link!
I think it would be helpful for making jigs and fixtures among other things for the shop. Whenever I build a project I usually know I'll build more than one so I take a lot of time making patterns for parts of say, an Adirondack chair or a child porch swing including layout holes for screw and fasteners.
Hi Mike. I have other project videos out for things like this. Thank you for suggesting that anyway.
I'm new to the CNC world and have settled on buying a Longmill (in large part, thanks to you. I will definitely use your affiliate link when the time comes.) Due to space concerns for now, I am looking at the 12X30 with the option to buy the expansion kit (and find more space) down the road. I was wondering if I purchase the plans for the 30X30, am I able to modify this design for a 12X30? Or is it logistically not doable? Thanks for the great work.
rpp123, congrats on choosing your machine brother! And thanks for considering me with your purchase, I appreciate it! The 12 x 30 is a great size especially if you're working with a smaller space. As far as the spoilboard file, it can be a little tough to modify although it can be done!
Gotta say, after watching so many of your videos, I went and ordered the 30x48. Figured go big or stay home but didn’t want to have to turn around and go bigger later down the road. With that being said, do you have a video and instructions for a spoil board for the 30x48 long mill?
Karen, right on! Congrats on jumping into CNC with your new machine. I do have a spoilboard file with full instructions. Here is a link: www.etsy.com/listing/1315514723/longmill-mk2-30x48-cnc-router-spoilboard
Garrett, Thank you for a fantastic instructional, educational video. I do have one question. Could you make an accompanying video as well as file (downloadable) to cut out a wooden 90 degree "square" that could be
bolted to any location using the pre-drilled 1/4"-20 riv-nuts? I would like a quick, bolt down square for repetitive work and easy Zeroing.
Thanks
Hi CDN. I have thought about that. I will make one but it will be a few weeks.
Hi Garrett, when you mount your rails down to your table and then put your spoiler board on top of that, aren't you losing about 3/4' on the Z? If you mount the rails 3/4" higher, will the router Z travel still be low enough while maintaining a stable router mount?
Rick, you can definitely do that brother! Mounting your rails on a piece of 3/4" piece of MDF or wood would help fix that z travel issue while still keeping everything rigid and strong!
Confused isn’t a spoiler board supposed to be a sacrificial if by chance you cut into it? If you accidentally cut into it where there is a metal screw it could be disastrous. I am beginner woodworker but ran wire EDM before retirement.
Warren, you bring up a very good point. And yes, it is meant to be sacrificial incase you cut into it. Most bits can handle you accidently nicking a spoilboard screw.
Hello Garrett, and thanks for all of your videos. Trying to get the long mill set up for grandson and want to make the spoil board in you video, problem my longmill did not come with m5 set screws now I'm sure I can get them else where but do they need to be a certain length?
Jerry, I have heard that from other CNCers with the Longmill too. Try a 15mm length set screw, it should be perfect for you.
Is there a reason you don't use sanding sealer or another alcohol based sealer that naturally dries fast?
James, that is a great idea brother! Sanding sealer would work great in this application and dry a whole lot quicker.
Hi Garrett, been watching a lot of your videos here lately and was curious to your thoughts process on why you chose the longmill instead of graduating to a Bob's KL series? I also have an e4 that I modified it to try to make a stiffer unit out of it and failed. I do like my KL744 but really need something smaller and built sturdy which led me to you and the longmill. One of my concerns is getting use to the X and Y being reversed from Bob's configuration. Owned the e4 for about 2 years now and maybe a little longer than a year on the KL. I make signs and custom cribbage boards mostly. Look forward to hearing and talking more with you in the future.
Hi Edward. My main reason for moving to a different CNC was the simple fact that metal is stronger. I wanted much faster processing in my projects and far less post cut work. This review video explains every reason I ultimately chose the Longmill → ruclips.net/video/rqKwcqHdSPw/видео.html
Interestingly, Bob's configuration is not the norm. They actually rotated it 90 degrees. What you would think would be the front of the machine, should be the front fo the machine as the x and y axis goes.
Just got a Longmill for my Pre-Engineering Classroom. When do you think the G-Code for the spoilboard will be out? Great information! Thank you!
Hey Greco. I am working to refine the board. I have found several issues with it. I expect it to be done today or tomorrow
just a question,
why use water based poly? I would think it would cause some swelling.
I have been using shellac, fast drying, alcohol based.
love the bullseye layout.
i will have to do that
good video
hi Chuck. It's just what I know.
Cnc machine maestro
Jujhar, thanks!
Garrett, I purchased the G-code file from your Etsy site but it doesn’t have a g-code file for cutting the clamp set screws on side 1 like the build video shows, only a file from side two. Will this file drill the holes and the flange for the end of the set screws as well? I’m confused and stoped after running the first two files (locating holes and screw down holes) the next file showed cutting out the outline only. So far everything is going perfectly and I don’t want to ruin such a good start. Please advise… your friend Wesley
Jtrswes, could you send me an email with some pictures brother? I will be able to help you out a bit better there.
@@IDCWoodcraft thank you Garrett but I figured it out and my spoil board looks and works perfectly! Learning more and more from you every day and appreciate you.
Wes
Hi Garrett, will this file work with the threaded inserts you can buy from Sienci or is it specifically for the rivet nuts you specified?
Fearedpw, you will have to look at the length for the ones provided by Sienci but they should work no problem brother!
FYI Garrett...Scienci Labs no longer sends the set screws for the backlash nut. I'm currently looking for someone who does sell them but no luck as of yet.
Yes I know. Look for M5 by 16 set screws. You can get them on Amazon
@@IDCWoodcraft Already purchased them Garrett, just waiting for them to show up lol.
Hello brother!! 👍
BillyChampy, hi brother! Happy to have you here.
Where is the home on this board. Did you zero it out in the middle or the front left corner?
Hi PG. I'm the middle
We got our Longmill last week. We purchased the 30x48 in anticipation of larger projects. Do you have a file for the larger board?
Rob, congrats on getting your Longmill brother! Right on! Absolutely, here's the link to Etsy for the larger board: etsy.me/3RjdOU5. Happy cutting!
Garrett - I am waiting for my 3030 and while preparing my spoilboard I came across your video explaining the dimensions. 960mm is about 37.75 inches. So not having my Longmill yet to make a measurement can you advise which dimension to use? Thank you.
Bill, use the 37.75" dimension brother.
@@IDCWoodcraft thank you Garrett. This 3030 is a beast! Installing now.
Hi Folks,
I've watched this a couple times. .
I noticed we cut the board and flip it over. Question, can I cut the top of my table out in the shape of my spoil board? I can install a ledge at the bottom of the hole so my spoil board can sit even with the table top. Why?
1. Do I lose height for a project by having a half inch board on top of the table?
2. Can I remove the spoil board and have an adjustable board (z axis) underneath? So if I wanted to cut a project where the width ( or height ) of the material is larger than the table to the top travel of the router I can adjust it by poking through the hole so the bit can do its job. This way, if I wanted to run a job on each side of, let's say a square post, I can just rotate it and cut on the next side.
3. Then for a regular job, I just install the top spoil board back in the hole.
Thoughts?
Dieter, you can make this as flexible as you want. You do not lose a whole lot of z travel with the board on top of the table.
@@IDCWoodcraft thanks Garrett!
I'm carving the 30 x 30 spoil board using your supplied Gcode files. Unfortunately, one of the Gcode files appears to be missing, or at the very least, can't find it. It's the file that drills the holes in the top of the spoil board, it simply was not included in the 6 Gcode files I downloaded.
As a workaround, I was wondering if I can just turn the board over and run file# 4 which counter bores the Rivet Nut holes, that aren't there, from the bottom. That should produce a bunch of counter bore holes on the bottom which then could be used to align a drill to drill out the Rivet Nut holes from the bottom which will auto-align the Rivet Nut holes that should have been produced by the missing gcode file. Yes/No?
edluna5224, It sounds like you’ve got a clever workaround in mind! Turning the board over and using file #4 to create those counter bore holes could help align things, but just be cautious about the depth and positioning to ensure everything lines up correctly. Just make sure your setup is secure, and keep an eye on the machine as you run the operation. Good luck with your project! If you are still having trouble, reach out to me at garrett@idcwoodcraft.com and I will resend you the file brother!
How you doing Garret? I am on the way to buy a CNC longmill 30" x 30" beginners kit. I will use your link in order to get it done. Have you any additional advice for buyin this cnc machine??
Jorge, sorry for the delay getting back to you the shop has been a little hectic this week and I'm just getting caught back up! Congrats on choosing your machine and thanks for considering using my link for your purchase, I truly appreciate it! As for what you need when you get your longmill. I have a video about that which I think you'll find super helpful with placing your order! Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/wyO2evJwK_Y/видео.html
Nice
Thanks Matt
Great video. Two quick questions - 1.) Do you remove the rivets to use in a new board and if so how do remove them? 2.) Do you have a file that I could use in Vectric to adjust for my workspace and generate GCODE?
Hi Crazy. Remove the rivets the same way they are installed. I do not yet have the spoilboard program setup, which I am glad about. After using it, I found it needs more grid lines and more rivets.
@@IDCWoodcraft hey there, so they just pop out with a good hammer whack from the other side? So are you tuning up the spoilboard program for a new video?
@@stevef yes, I'll modify it
Can your file be adjusted for the 48” model?
Ralph, brother I've got you covered! Here's the link to the 48" file →etsy.me/3RjdOU5
Great info thanks always for the time you put in to share your knowledge. It is greatly appreciated. I also was wondering (which i think i can) will vcarve desktop still work for longmill it just keeps your parameters 24x24 is that correct. If i do get the longmill i will probably get vcarve pro at some point. Again thank you hope you are feeling better.
hi John. good to see you again! Yes, desktop will work for the longmill. If you decide to get it and have a project you want bigger. Just design it, send it to me, and I'll upsize it and I'll run the gcode for you.
Hello Garrett. I am going to use your link to purchase a Longmill 12 x 30. This size will work well for the projects I plan to make. How would I change the dimensions and sizing of a spoilboard for that size machine ? TIA for any help you can give me.
Hi Worral. Sorry for the delayed response on this comment. Many comments to answer and sometimes, some get lost in the mix.
Thank you for using my link to order the Longmill when you order it. Resizing the spoilboard would take a video to explain. The best is to get the file and trim it down to the 12x30 size. It should be easy to do once you have it.
Send me an email and I'll get the file to you for free, since it is not on Etsy yet.
Can you add a ATC to the longmill?
Deron, I don't know about this one brother. You're best bet is to reach out to Longmill directly and see if they have one that's compatible!
Hi Garrett, Thank you for all this info. But I do not see any links below to click on to get to youe website, youe Etsy store, or any other links you mentioned in this video. Thank you
Ron USCG MKC RET
Hi Ron. You need to expand the comments section of the videos
@@IDCWoodcraft thank you
Is that MDF board that your legs attached too or is it wood? I can't tell.
Iwannaapple, the table top is made of plywood and then I put the MDF spoil board on top of that.
@@IDCWoodcraft
I have mdf board under my legs while yours is plywood. Am i correct that i should use the longer screws to go through the mdf to the wood underneath because the mdf will eventually loosen the screws holding down the legs?
Just got my long mill and just got back from buying a waste board. I haven't opened the box yet but where do you get this m5 set screw to replace it with that you speak of? And for anybody else that reads this, they really need to adjust the cost of shipping on their website. WoW! $165 in total shipping charges. $60 to get to the border then another $105 to get to the house. Thats $2.75 a pound! UPS is making a fortune.
Hi Iwan. You can get the set screws from Amazon or any local hardware store. get M5x16
@@IDCWoodcraft
I appreciate that. I'm in the process of putting it together. I saw the size of your waste board but could you tell me a good overall size to cut the board?
@@iwannaapple7190 off the top of my head, I don't remember this specific size. However, this video has that information
ruclips.net/video/dbxtLQY26Cw/видео.html
@@IDCWoodcraft
I'm still putting it together if I can ask one more question.
I realize I need to get a program. Haven't decided on what I can afford yet but I do know I need to get a bit for what I build.
I got the long mill because I make soap cutters. Currently I use a dremmel to saw out narrow notches in the wood at exact certain heights from the edge. Then I use a washer that has fishing line tied to it and stick the washer in the notch. The notch is rounded inside the wood because of the dremmel saw but it fits in there perfect because the mini saw blade creates a notch half the width of the washer. The notch is also as thin as the washer.
I think it is possible for the longmill to create this rounded notch for me (similar to how I see you drilling holes but side to side and not a rounded circular motion to drill a hole) at certain distances from the edge of the wood.
What kind of bit would that be and could I get just one or two maybe 3 bits from you and how could I do that?
In this day, with costs rising so fast I really dunno if I can sell anything. Shelves are getting bare and I'm worried it will affect peoples buying choices. You should make a video on that?
@@iwannaapple7190 please be more explicit regarding the video request. I want to be clear on what you're talking about.
As far as the soap cutter, send me a picture. I want to see what you're talking about.
garrett@idcwoodcraft.com
Hi Garrett,
Just one question, What is the thickness of your MDF used for the spoilboard? Thank You!
Michael, great question! I use 3/4" of MDF. You should be able to find it at Home Depot.
Good video Garrett! I finally finished my design for my long mill today! Care to take a look, and tell me if it will work or not? Id be happy to email you the carbide create file for feed back! Just got my refund from bobs and ordering the long mill asap!
Awesome on upgrading your CNC machine order. Remember to use the link in the video descriptions.
I definitely want to see your design. Email it to me.
@@IDCWoodcraft email sent buddy!
Is there a way to use another bit besides the 3/16” bit? I’ve ordered your starter pack but that bit wasn’t included in it. Your bits are the only ones I will have. Just curious if I could swap the 3/16” for the 1/8” and rerun the vector for it? (Actually don’t even have the longmill yet, but you had a great “sale” and didn’t want to lose out on it)
Hi Ed. If you use the g-code I provide, you cannot use any other size bit. You can edit the toolpath in the vcarve file for the bit you want to use. That will take care of it for you.
Brilliant. Do you have this file as a vectric file? I can then modify to display in mm as well as adjust the size to my Queenbee pro.
Ciaran. Wow, I so missed this comment. I do have the vectric file. You can modify as you wish.
@@IDCWoodcraft not a problem Garret. With no reply, it forced me to learn to draw this up myself. I am glad I did, as it allowed me to design something that suited my application rather than modify your application.
Have a wonderful day.
PS, I would love to see a video on tiling, but more specifically to show indexing pins being used. The reason for indexing pins is to allow for multiple toll paths with different end mill sizes.
I've seen videos where they show using an endmill to relocate the index holes to line up the tiles, but this will not work if you are on another cutter bit size.
@@CiaranWhelan videos on tiling are on my list.
May be a stupid question but, why use the rivet nuts? Is it to just hold your project board?
YouGottoSeeThis, those are for holding down your project board with clamps brother!
Thanks for the quick response on my questions! Just doing my research looking to purchase soon. The assembly is whats currently holding me back.
Hi Garrett
Thanks for the video. I have been watching a lot of them lately. I have had a Carvewright for many years and thanks to you I took the plunge and ordered the Long Mill today, I also ordered the Laser attachment. I hope the learning curve will not be to steep, with Carvewright we didn't need gcodes, kinda plug and play. I just ordered your Spoilboard For Longmill CNC Router from Etsy, thank you for putting it together. I have a question. Could I just double up the top of the table and cut the spoilboard from the top board. The Long Mill would sit higher in reference to the spoilboard so it would use the full depth of the CNC if I understand it right.
What is your thought on that? If I can, do I need to do any thing when I run the program?
Thanks for all you do.
Mike
Hi Mike. I thought about the carvewright when I was first looking at routers.
I don't like having a spoilboard that is part of the table, even if you double things up, because the spoilboard will eventually have to be replaced. That means disassembling the router from the table completely.
@@IDCWoodcraft Thank you for your response, I guess I was thinking when I cut the spoilboard out of the top board I would still be able to lift the board out to replace it but the longmill would still mounted on the top board left from the cutout. Or am I missing something?
@@michaelhomann179 you can do that, but I find that it really doesn't make a difference. The one drawback to that is if the spoil board ends up recessed slightly in the pocket that you've created, you won't be able to do pass through type of projects with the tiling feature.
@@IDCWoodcraft Thanks for your thought and your help.
Hi Garrett. Is the G code available for this grid pattern? If so where? Also, the actual cut out of the 30 x 30 square, is this G coat available also anywhere?
Hi Mr. I have not made it available yet because I found it needs more stuff
Does this work for the mk2 30x30?
Brendon, it sure does brother!
I guess just checking for understanding...
If i cut a square to those specific dimensions before my longmill gets here in a couple weeks... That should allow me to square my machine the day i unbox it?
Yes
@@IDCWoodcraft your videos are super helpful and after litterally a year of research and fear of pulling the trigger. My wife and i finally descided to start. I appreciate the service you provide
@@TheKapnX I'm excited to hear that. It almost seems intimidating sometimes. But that's why I'm here. So what machine are you going to get? What are you going to make? Gifts? Business? I want to know it all! Lol
@@IDCWoodcraft my wife wants to make home decor and i will be doing odds and ends to get our initial investment back.
We just sprung for the 30×30. Ithe goal is to try cutting polyethelene foam. If i can get it to cut right i have a niche group that needs detailed durrable foam for a combat sport and ill atleast have a pre built client list.
@@TheKapnX I'm glad you had your wife have a general plan to get one in your business. Do you have any projects to make for people yet?
I've had a few people ask me about the polyurethane foam. I guess I will start looking into it .
See you ordered a Longmill? As you know, I am a Long Mill owner as well. What inspired you to select that machine?
Is this compatible with the longmill MK2 or are the footprints slightly different
Rob, as long as you have the 30 x 30 the dimensions will be the same!
Why did you select SS rivet nuts instead of aluminum? If you hit a ss rivet nut, kiss the bit good bye.
Good point William! I figured the likelihood of hitting the rivet knot that is recessed in the wood as far less likely than the nuts wearing out because they're too soft. That was my logic.
what size are the Rivet Nuts you are using? 1/4"? The link has a lot of choices on size.
1/4"
Do you have the dust collector on?
agomodern, not on this one on the video brother! But you definitely can when you make your own.
I figured out my center home but when I run the gcode frome the file #2 of the project. It runs several passes over the spoil board without cutting. I used the probe to set Z zero height. What am I doing wrong?
PG, great question. I would take a look at your cut depth setting first.
Garrett, did your MK2 arrive and if so have you built it? I'm wondering about the spoil board for it. Mainly, do the anti-backlash devices still get in the way of travel?
Hey Mr P. No, they fixed it in this design. The anti-backlash nuts are now out of the way!
@@IDCWoodcraft Thanks, now that mine is here and assembled, I understand. You have been so much help, and you don't even know it!!!! Thank you!!!
Can I make the spoilboard with eazel pro ?
Hi Bobby. I don't use Easel. But I see know reason why not
Hello Garrett, I purchased , upon download, it gave me like 8 files, and none were able to be opened, any suggestions on how to load onto a flash drive to put in gender ?
Hey Al. You have to unzip the files first. then you'll be able to open everything
is there a software option for Mac users if I purchase a long mill
Hi Lee. There is absolutely no software for CNC's that work on MAC. You eiyher have to get a PC or a PC emulator for MAC
What length of the m5 set screw do I need to pick up?
16mm
Thank you
could i use 3/4" melamine as spoilboard?
You can use whatever material you want. You just want it to be soft enough to not damage your router bit
@@IDCWoodcraft ok, thank you
Have a special video or tutorial for the steps of buying the cnc 30 x 30 longmill?? I will really appreciate your comments¡¡ Regards
Jorge, my apologies again for the delay brother, I just saw your previous comment as well. Let me know if you have any other questions after watching the video I sent over to you!
Is that MDF? How thick?
Yes MDF. 3/4"
the screws went too deep, theres not much left for surfacing on top
Zoltan, I'm sorry brother I'm not too sure what you mean by this one. Did you give it a try?
Hi I watch a lot of your videos which are great but wasn’t impressed with this machine for to reasons the first it wasn’t Rigid. And secondly wasn’t leveling your final completion
basilloizou1942, thanks for sharing your perspective brother. I appreciate it.
Will this work with the 30 x 48 MK2
No. I'll be making one of those later.
@@IDCWoodcraft Thanks I am looking forward to that video. I am using your link to purchase my Sienci MK2 30 by 48 with add on such as the laser, dust shields, shoe and sensors. I will be getting my bits from your website. Do you have a link for the drag bit?
Hi @@jwar2163 Thanks for considering me when getting your CNC. you're gonna enjoy this new addiction...uh, I mean hobby.
Here's the affiliate link to the drag bit → www.WidgetWorksUnlimited.com/?Click=8456
Once you click it, search for diamond drag bit. the link is good for 24 hours. After that, you have to use the elink again if I am to get credit
@@IDCWoodcraft Thank you Just placed my order through Sienci and followed your provided link to the drag bit and the link in Desc to your bit set. Looking forward to more of your Videos and to the new Spoil Board when you get to it. I will purchase your design as I like the Current Spoil Board Design that you have out for the Longmill. And thanks for telling me that it will not work for the MK2. BTW I really liked the glass engraving you completed with the Sonogram My wife has two of those in photo print for the two grandchildren and she found out mothers day that there is a third grand kid on the way. I may make her three of those glass engravings and mount them into a frame to hang on the wall with back lighting once I become capable on the CNC. Hopefully with Your Videos and the Forum for both Sienci and Vcarve I will become proficient enough to accomplish what my mind sets out to do. Also have you considered putting a laser on Your Longmill? Take Care Garrett and due to this new addiction ops I meant hobby my wife and kids have already put together a long, long, very long list of things they want me to make. Again Thank You for helping out US Wayward souls looking for something to occupy Our minds and Our Idle hands.