I didn't see how you checked to see if there was any "twist" in the frame you built, and how you corrected it if there was twist. When I built a frame for a router sled to flatten a large slab, I strung strings on diagonals from the corners a fixed height above the surface making an X. Then checked the gap, or interference where the two strings meet at the center of the X to see if my frame was flat, or was twisted. I would think this would be an extremely critical step in making a surface to mount the CNC. I suppose, you could add shims under the mounting feet of the rails, but this might be a bit tricky with all of the intermediate 3D printed supports in the middle of the rails. I'm surprised I've never seen anyone talk about this and I've watched quite a few CNC assembly videos. Also, with the intermediate supports on the Longmill Y-axis rails, if your 2x4's aren't perfectly straight, there is the chance you could bow the aluminum rail slightly when you tighten down those intermediate supports. Have you done any checking with a straight-edge to see if your rails are bowed?
Being a bit more precision minded when it comes to the base, I'd recommend planing the 2 by 4 lumber to ensure everything lines up as closely as possible. Aside from that, I think your method was good.
I am looking to get the 30 x 48 Longmill. I’d like to build a table before it arrives. What is the footprint of the 30 x 48 Longmill? Thank you for your time.
Jeff on the main MK2 product page you should see a picture that has all the information you should need to know about the footprint 👍 sienci.com/product/longmill-mk2/
Thanks for this video. I'm looking to purchase a 12x30 for my small shop. I noticed you mounted ror machine at the same level as the spoil board. Most others that I've seen mount the machines at the level that the spoil boards are... soo 3/4 inch lower. Longmills z axis is shorter in travel than most. What is the advantage of monting as you did. Many thanks
Is there a reason you need the extra Z travel? Typically your max cutting height is more limited by the length of your bit. If you have a thicker material, you can still readjust the mounting point of the router or spindle to fit the material as well, so at the end of the day, it may make less difference than you think.
Just ordered my 30x48 MK2. As I wait for it, I was planning on building a workbench just for it. I can’t seem to find the overall dimensions for the complete machine. Other than knowing it’ll be 30x48, not sure how much wider to account for rails and other parts like controller etc. Does anyone have the area for this machine?
We were fortunate that our bench was good to go as is. If you have a surface that's got an imperfection it is ideal to get it as close to flat as possible, otherwise whatever material you mount your machine too could also inherit those flaws. Shims and sanding the imperfect areas are 2 fairly simple methods to fix most flaws. Hope this helps
I will be receiving my 30x30 longmill in 2-3 weeks. Here is my question. If I use 2 pieces of 5/8" MDF glued together (1 1/4" thick MDF) , do I need to back it with 2x4 like you did. I want to place it on a desk like you but from time to time I will need to hook it (almost vertically) to a moving shelve. Thank's for your video, it is very useful.
Hi Jocelyn, I only speak on personal opinion here, but I feel that without some bracing under your MDF, you may still risk having some warping or sagging near the middle of the board. I would try the double layer MDF but use a straight edge to check if you have any bends that are coming from the weight of the boards itself, and add some more structure to your table if it doesn't do a good job supporting itself.
Great video Scott! Please tell me the length of sheet supported beyond your bench. I have a similar bench that's 24" deep and was concerned about flex if I extend it out another 2 feet.
Hey Randy, Glad you liked the video! The actual work bench top is 28" deep. The 2x4 frame and MDF base/strips on top are just over 48". I run this machine pretty much daily and so far the set up is holding strong!
I am new to the CNC world... I understand that the work surface needs to be flat and the Long Mill needs to be square to the waste board. Does the workbench/Longmill need to be level??
Thanks Scott! Ordered the track kit with my Longmill and am looking into preparing the bench top for when it arrives. How high are the tracks? What thickness of MDF do you recommend? I'd like to make sure that I have enough clearance between the top of the track and the top of the (surfaced) spoiler board to keep the tracks out of harm's way.
Hey Hank, the dimensions for the tracks can be found on our product description here: sienci.com/product/t-track/. 3/4" is probably a good thickness as you'll have some extra material to flatten once you have everything set up.
Yes, flattening the work surface is standard for any CNC router on the market. It ensures that the surface is parallel to your machine when you want to make more precise cuts
![5 Reasons We Bought the Longmill CNC [from Scienci Labs]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/N6-6gtmD1t0/mqdefault.jpg)
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Great work didnt realize how easy it was to make the tracks
Thanks Jay! We're glad you found it helpful!
Great Video, Scott!
Glad you enjoyed it, Dana!
I didn't see how you checked to see if there was any "twist" in the frame you built, and how you corrected it if there was twist. When I built a frame for a router sled to flatten a large slab, I strung strings on diagonals from the corners a fixed height above the surface making an X. Then checked the gap, or interference where the two strings meet at the center of the X to see if my frame was flat, or was twisted. I would think this would be an extremely critical step in making a surface to mount the CNC. I suppose, you could add shims under the mounting feet of the rails, but this might be a bit tricky with all of the intermediate 3D printed supports in the middle of the rails. I'm surprised I've never seen anyone talk about this and I've watched quite a few CNC assembly videos. Also, with the intermediate supports on the Longmill Y-axis rails, if your 2x4's aren't perfectly straight, there is the chance you could bow the aluminum rail slightly when you tighten down those intermediate supports. Have you done any checking with a straight-edge to see if your rails are bowed?
Being a bit more precision minded when it comes to the base, I'd recommend planing the 2 by 4 lumber to ensure everything lines up as closely as possible. Aside from that, I think your method was good.
I am looking to get the 30 x 48 Longmill. I’d like to build a table before it arrives. What is the footprint of the 30 x 48 Longmill? Thank you for your time.
Jeff on the main MK2 product page you should see a picture that has all the information you should need to know about the footprint 👍 sienci.com/product/longmill-mk2/
Thanks for this video. I'm looking to purchase a 12x30 for my small shop. I noticed you mounted ror machine at the same level as the spoil board. Most others that I've seen mount the machines at the level that the spoil boards are... soo 3/4 inch lower. Longmills z axis is shorter in travel than most. What is the advantage of monting as you did. Many thanks
Is there a reason you need the extra Z travel? Typically your max cutting height is more limited by the length of your bit. If you have a thicker material, you can still readjust the mounting point of the router or spindle to fit the material as well, so at the end of the day, it may make less difference than you think.
just curious if there was a reason you did it tht way. thanks
@@SienciLabs
Just ordered my 30x48 MK2. As I wait for it, I was planning on building a workbench just for it. I can’t seem to find the overall dimensions for the complete machine. Other than knowing it’ll be 30x48, not sure how much wider to account for rails and other parts like controller etc. Does anyone have the area for this machine?
On their website it shows footprint and optimal table top dimensions
Looks easy enough but How did you make sure the area was flat ie: Without curve or twist? Is it important?
We were fortunate that our bench was good to go as is. If you have a surface that's got an imperfection it is ideal to get it as close to flat as possible, otherwise whatever material you mount your machine too could also inherit those flaws. Shims and sanding the imperfect areas are 2 fairly simple methods to fix most flaws. Hope this helps
@@SienciLabs Good to know...thank you for the reply. All the best.
I will be receiving my 30x30 longmill in 2-3 weeks. Here is my question. If I use 2 pieces of 5/8" MDF glued together (1 1/4" thick MDF) , do I need to back it with 2x4 like you did. I want to place it on a desk like you but from time to time I will need to hook it (almost vertically) to a moving shelve. Thank's for your video, it is very useful.
Hi Jocelyn, I only speak on personal opinion here, but I feel that without some bracing under your MDF, you may still risk having some warping or sagging near the middle of the board. I would try the double layer MDF but use a straight edge to check if you have any bends that are coming from the weight of the boards itself, and add some more structure to your table if it doesn't do a good job supporting itself.
Great video Scott! Please tell me the length of sheet supported beyond your bench. I have a similar bench that's 24" deep and was concerned about flex if I extend it out another 2 feet.
Hey Randy,
Glad you liked the video!
The actual work bench top is 28" deep. The 2x4 frame and MDF base/strips on top are just over 48". I run this machine pretty much daily and so far the set up is holding strong!
@@SienciLabs Thanks for the info Scott...you rock!
I am new to the CNC world... I understand that the work surface needs to be flat and the Long Mill needs to be square to the waste board. Does the workbench/Longmill need to be level??
As long as the LongMill and the wasteboard are flat in relation to itself, the level of the machine and the workbench itself shouldn't matter.
Great info, What operating system those Vcarve pro and Aspire runs on Mac or Windows
Vectric software as far as I am aware at the moment is only compatible with Windows.
Thanks Scott! Ordered the track kit with my Longmill and am looking into preparing the bench top for when it arrives. How high are the tracks? What thickness of MDF do you recommend? I'd like to make sure that I have enough clearance between the top of the track and the top of the (surfaced) spoiler board to keep the tracks out of harm's way.
Hey Hank, the dimensions for the tracks can be found on our product description here: sienci.com/product/t-track/. 3/4" is probably a good thickness as you'll have some extra material to flatten once you have everything set up.
It would be useful to answer the question vs send us off to a link where the information is not readily available
@@vidznstuff1 There is actually a prety picture at the provided link that has all the demensions. Outside of that its 12.45mm or 0.5 inches in height.
I am still in the planning stages of getting my MK2. I have seen in other videos reference to flattening your work surface. Would this be required?
Yes, flattening the work surface is standard for any CNC router on the market. It ensures that the surface is parallel to your machine when you want to make more precise cuts
@@SienciLabs is there a video explaining how you would run a program to flatten the work surface?
@@sledsik2391 Definitely, you can watch right here ruclips.net/video/jfInIEOB3kU/видео.html
@@SienciLabs Thank you! Ordering this weekend for my first CNC:)
You could raise your bench by putting larger wheels on it.
Yup, however, I decided the left side of the bench would be my desk, so I wanted to keep that area close to chair height. Great suggestion though!
Go semi vertical, save some room. I don’t have a CNC but I am leaning on that, maybe. Pro/con ?anyone out there with experience
First!