Longmill CNC Spoilboard and Fence
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2024
- Having a fence on my CNC was a top priority and was the first project I took on after installing the spoilboard. I will show you how I did both. Check out Sienci Labs for more information on the Longmill CNC. @SienciLabs
sienci.com/
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Making a fence. The chamfer idea is one I'll rob. Cheers
Yes, can not belive more people don't use a fence. Works great, although I need to do some work on it and my spoilboard. It looks nothing like this now.
I bought my Long mill over 2 years ago and that my friend is what I did and exactly how I did it for the fence, except I don't want T-Tracks. Great job
I have changed the fence design since. I have it split so I can slide a longer board in there if needed. Sure wish my spoilboard still looked this good. Might be time for a new one.
Very well made video, thanks for posting.
Thanks for taking the time to say so!
I like the fence. Think though it be would better if it was removable though. I plan on using full sheets in a lot of projects and as is it would be in the way when indexing work pieces.
My Idea is dowels on the fence and Dog Holes.
I agree and have redesigned the fence. Look for an updated video. I like your idea. I don't cut large sheets often so my new lower portion is screwed into poplar. That allows me to take it off when needed.
Great video, I like the fence ideal, I think I will incorporate some t-track on the back of the fence also.
Great, not sure why more people don't use a fence.
nice work
Thanks Ryan and thank you for commenting.
Glad to see you made the plunge! Congrats on your new CNC. ToolsToday is a great place for your bits. Amana tools come with a digital data sheet to that is great if you are using Vectric software. Any questions feel free to ask it was quite a learning curve for me and took some patience...
I did buy some Amana bits and purchased VCarve Pro. It is quite a learning curve for sure. Just surfaced 2 chess boards and wow...very nice.
Can you share the link for the countersink but you used. Been looking for that type for a while.
Also, glad to see you posting again.
@@tonyoliveira8861 amzn.to/3tzx9H2
i built mine the same except i used 1/4 inch hard maple for my fence. love my longmill mk1 i want to gt the mk2 48x30.
Really enjoying mine, learning a lot.
Nice work, thanks for the tips.
Thank you for taking the time to comment!
Nice video I’m getting ready to build mine but first I need a work table. How big should my work table be if you don’t mind me asking sir.
It depends on which machine you are getting. For the 30x30 which I have, I attached a piece of MDF that was 4'x5' to my worktable. resources.sienci.com/view/lmk2-table-enclosure/
Good video, short and to the point. Just curious, from which point do you sync the board to the design - many people use the front left corner. Does it really matter which corner or the middle of the project that should be used??
All my projects start in the front left corner. That is how I draw it up in VCarve and that is where all my bits and wrenches are stored. You can start from wherever you want.
I’m new to all this. I have the same cnc. I also purchased the T- tracks. My question is……with your router all the way forward and to one side do you zero out right there put down your work piece to the fence and everything is lined up for the project? Sorry I’m just trying to understand all this. I’m practicing and learning I have trouble with lining up my job and work piece especially when I want to use the laser
No, I zero out to the corner of the workpiece every time. clamp the piece against the fence and zero (XYandZ) out at the lower left corner. Lining up the laser is a whole different ballgame, depending on the software you are using.
You have the lead screws covered, where did you get them?
Thanks!
Scienci Labs when I ordered the CNC
Thanks for the video! I've just assembled my LongMill and getting ready to setup a spoilboard with T-tracks. QUESTION: is there a reason you didn't use the LongMill to drill the spoilboard and T-track mounting holes in the base? I'm planning on doing that then setting up a program and jig to drill/countersink the spoilboards. Figure that if I do all the work on the LongMill then everything will be square to the machine and I'll have the jig & program available to make new spoilboards when I need them.
I thought about how to do that and could not come up with a solution to go about it. A jig sounds like a great idea and I have a lot more confidence now to pull it off.
Sir when I was upload surfacing program it's going to work one line and suddenly stopped and showing grbl 1.1h for help longmill mk2. Please help me....
Just looked on their website and found the covers. What are your thoughts on using the LongMill in a non heated shop? Would it rust out or would it be OK?
I am considering the purchase of one and I don't have a heated space at this time.
Happy New Year to you and yours!
I don't know. I have only had it in an unheated space during power outages so I would hate to answer you. How cold does it get and what is your humidity level? Maybe someone else can answer.
Ontario Canada weather! Do the Dust guards keep the all of the wood chips off of the lead screws?
My thought was if they do then I could maybe spray a teflon coating on them, then the dust would not build up and cause a problem.
Thank you and HAPPY NEW YEAR!
@@6xcchamber971 yes, it is amazing how much sawdust this thing can create. Plan on setting up some kind of dust collector right away and you could build a dust shield if you wanted.
Only 3/8” to the T-track isn’t much. I have had unplanned events that went deeper. Plus, when you do your 1st or 2nd resurfacing, very little left.
I guess I could double up on the MDF, they only sell 3/4" here. What do you do?
@@AlaskaWorkshop I am able to get 1” and use it. There is no “perfect” spoilboard/hold down system. I was looking at others on RUclips to get ideas. It depends largely on the type of work you do. But stuff does happen where a bit will go deep. I didn’t do a complete job of tightening the collet nut once and the bit almost made it through the 1” before I stopped it. Sometimes it can just be an oversight in your start/stop depth. If you go for a thicker spoilboard, you will lose space for doing deeper projects like bowls. In the end, you will find something that works best for you. I did come up with an idea for avoiding grids and lots of holes. Make a carpenter square out of 1/2” acrylic. Put a hole at the fulcrum point and a pin about 1.5” long. Then you can put a hole the size of the pin anywhere on your spoilboard and have a perfect square to set your wood to. You use your x-axis and a bit to set the 90-degree from the fulcrum.
@@bw162 Thanks for the insight. I have some issues with the bit plunging deeper than expected, turned out to be user error. Learning on every project!
@@AlaskaWorkshop ALL problems are user errors. The CNC doesn’t make a mistake. Don’t get frustrated. You don’t see the screw-ups on RUclips because they are edited out.
I am looking at the Longmill also. Probably after the first of the year. Glad to hear you like it. Did you also get the Laser Beam with it?
I did and have it all wired in but have not tried it yet, still learning the router and software.
@@AlaskaWorkshop That’s great enjoy looking forward to some videos from you on the CNC. I like your approach to the how to videos.
@@jvitale0115 Thanks Joe, I have been having fun learning a lot in the last couple weeks and putting it to good use.
I just assembled my LongMill MK2 and have to say that I'm very impressed with the whole thing. Well designed, good construction (robust parts, tight tolerances and precision fit), quality hardware (with spare parts) and the assembly manual is detailed and clear.
@@hankvana2149 Agreed, the instructions were very detailed and easy to follow.
Does your longmill need to be on top of spoilboard?
No, as long as the spoilboard covers the extent of the router travel.
Nice! Where did you get your CNC and how do you like it? As you know, shipping to AK can be expensive. I have a wish list but I'm still saving up for shipping costs :(
I got it from Sienci Labs in Canada. Shipping was $140 but it got here within 3 days. Love it so far, just surfaced 2 chess boards too big for my planer.