I just upgraded my system to an Axiom CNC and ordered their horizontal clamping system - works fantastic! Not only pushes over but down also and it has a TON of clamping pressure. Game changer for me.
What an excellent video! I love the simplicity of your method. I'm definitely going to do the PVC fence! I had a piece jump out of my hold downs today and this method would have certainly prevented that from happening. Brilliant!
Instead of going through the trouble of the PCV....you can just put a piece of plywood on top of your spoilboard and screw it down along the edges where you have your PVC now.....and basically cut away everything but leaving a straight piece on both sides (where you screwed down) that make a perfect 90 degree angle with a round circle in the corner for you corner of your wood to sit. Super fast and super accurate. And easy to remove if you wish without all the large holes in your spoilboard. I've been using this for years and it works great and super accurate. Just another option but your video was very good and precise. And really appreciate not showing your videos full of...."and now its time for 3 minute video about the sponsor of this video."
I made Morgan’s MatchFit wasteboard. I love the versatility. I made various hold downs with the MatchFit connectors. It was actually fun to do. I’ve been using it this morning and holding rock solid.
Ironic place in time. I use to follow you on social media for a long time, going back to your first big bertha sander ( I believe that was it's name). The reason I stopped was because you started doing a lot of CNC work and at the time I thought I was a purest and it was "cheating". Well fast forward to now and I am close to retiring and am looking at getting into CNC making. So lucky me, I subscribed again. I am in the research phase, so I am overloading doing research on CNC machines, software, techniques etc. Thank you for this video - I may likely go this route when I purchase my CNC.
Hello, Loved today's inlay. I am very interested in your work. I am planning on a small CNC system in the new shop. Yes on bowls. And Manny was 11:39 introduced 16:01 in upper left video. Thanks again
I Have a 220V 2.2Kw and I love it, it works like a charm and I have double the speed of feed and I'm working at 18000 RPM with a 2 1/4" Surfacing bit and the machine doesn't know that the bit is there. My X-35 Woodworker kik ass and I did make a vacuum system under neet as a hold down .... love it. I'm about to put some Piston to put as stops like your pipe but they are on the edge off the cutting area so like that I can release them and I still got the full cutting area to work with.
I came back to watch this again. Gotta nother CNC so I have 2 now. This one is a friggin beast and very quiet by the way. So, that means I've flattened a wasreboard 4x now and I have a tip to not cut too much off which is something most do not mention or like me I keep forgetting Anyway, I forgot what my first cut was but it did not flatten all which is a good thing. The very next step is to zero your bit where the router did not cut. At the second cut set your start cut at 0 and your finish depth at 0! Do not cut anything because it will be at a lower point then when you started. You might have to do it again but you will not waste wood. Speaking waste board. I think this time around I'm going to use wedges and a top down tightening system with no metal tracks. Just cut my own key track in the wood.
I Got my first CNC last night. Don’t even have it all put together just making sure I have all my ideas straight before I start. I just want to say using the Jointer to notch the waste board is the best use of the tool when you are still having to justify the expense to a spousal unit.. I’m going to see if it works for me.
I copied your idea of rabbeting the edges of the MDF so that they sit on top of the T-track. I agree with the advantages you state. My jointer doesn't have the capability but it was easy to do with a rabbeting bit on the router table.
good video. i like the pvc method. have you tried a smaller dia pipe so you dont loose as much work area? i use dowel like you have the pvc .5 inch dia. thinking about using the kfeg clamps that use the .750 inch dogholes and was wonsweing if you have used them and your input on them. Id like to see your bowls made. Ive made a few like i think you are doing it and yoyos lol the kids and grown ups have a lot of fub with them. I do several 2 sided jobs. I think id laminate that poplar and do it as a 2 sided job to avaoid the glue up of the 2 halves and just so i could say ive done that lol Best video ive seen in awhile thanks for sharing it with us.
Great vid. You have a lot of great ideas I can use. I use the Festool system. Meaning, I have a grid of 20mm holes across the entire spoil board and a grid of threaded inserts for clamps. I can use all the Festool clamping items. There's a lot of 3rd party clamping fixtures for Festool I can use too.
You nailed it. Keep the piece from sliding and you need very little “clamping” force. I downloaded TSO CAD files (free) to make my board MFT compatible. I have a professional ShopSabre machine with vac but I use the dog board most. TSO dogs and something like your wood block and maybe tape or small clamps on the corner and you’re good. The vac is HUGE for sheet goods, especially for keeping the sheet flat. One recommendation is to zero to the machine bed for most things, except vcarving. There is a reason the pros do it.
Great video I stole the pvc idea from you!! Lol and I made the holes too tight and rather then re cut the board I took the pvc and cut one kerf lime from my multi tool into the pipe halfway thru and they work fantastic also you gave me another great idea I have to try
What’s up bud? Been following you for a while…I would love to see you Do a double sided carve how to video. No one’s really shown that on the 1f. Our hold down methods differ lol. I just can’t trust that double sided tape. Lol😂. I’m a brad nailer myself.
Ill definitely make one 👍🏼 hahaha that’s okay! What ever works best for you, I’ve seen a few people use plastic nails. Looks pretty cool but the nail guns expensive I believe
i’m getting ready to buy this cnc machine. so is that spindle powered by regular household outlet, or does it take a 220? and is it hard to set up with the liquid cooled?
Great video, Jef! I have been using Brad nails lately and I tend to just square up my piece with the front lip of my waste board but now that I got the journeyman width I need to re-do the Wasteboard. Got a link for your t track? Mine is too short.
Love this style of wasteboard. Do you get any kind of flex from the pvc? I do epoxy carves where I pull pieces on and off multiple times. I’m wondering about accuracy.
@@TwoMooseDesign I use 1/4” aluminum rod, but with the inner section still inside the PVC, that seems more stable. Do you ever remove them? If so, when you put them back in Are they still plenty snug?
one more question lol on your bowls you make do you have issues with warping? i do i think its the depth i make them and my material probably has too much moisture. not sure but researching how to avoid warping when making deep pokets in bowls and trays etc
I have not tried small pvc. It’s just what scraps I had on hand 😆 I have not had issue but I’ve only made a few. You remove a bunch from both sides vs like a small tray they can warp if you don’t do them properly.
I did 2x2” squares. It depends what software you use, the machine can be run by pretty much all 𝙲𝙽𝙲 software. You can also buy files, I sell the grid in 1” and 2” squares
Awesome ! plagiarizing your setup. Just wondering when you were doing the cuts for the PVC pipes, did you cut to exact dimension of the pipe or ever so slightly undersize so it fits snug?
Where can I get one of those countersink drill bits with the depth adjustment ?? I've seen others and have used a few but not thrilled with the results.
@@TwoMooseDesign Pin nails are much thinner than brad nails. You'll need a pin nailer (smaller version of a brad nailer). They're thin enough that if you accidentally hit them with a bit it'll just plow right through them. They pull out easily with pliers - depending on the material you'll leave them either in the material or the waste board when you pry the material off (I use a 5-in-1 scraper because they're pretty stiff vs flexi scrapers). You can also clip them with side cutters or flat nose cutters.
I saw that pvc thing myself. DIdn't like the idea of big PVC pipes in my waste board so I use wooden dowels. Much cheaper and smaller and work just as good and do not break and are much less worrisome if a bit goes through them. When I don't want them there I just pull out my pliers and store them in a plastic bag. Personally, I think wooden dowels is a much better way to go and worry free. Just a thought. I'm watch your videos cause I'm wanting to sell mine and get the onefinity which is what I should have done in the first place.
Technically you lost by a minute because your first guess was off by 30 seconds hahaha I have two so ill send you one as well. Send me an email or message on IG. Twomoosedesign@gmail.com
Removing material generates a lot of force in multiple directions. If you're just using v bits not much force is applied. Id ratehr apply more force than needed than risk a piece breaking free and ruining my project.
Is it worth the time to not rout all the way through a project on the perimeter and then cut it out using a oscillating spindle sander to true up the piece?
Let's say I am making something, it doesn't matter what. In order to not damage the waste board would it be okay to not cut the perimeter of the piece to full depth and then cut it out after removing it from the waste board then sand the edge left by not cutting to full depth saving cutting into the wasteboard
Felt safe to me, what’s the point of a cabinet saw if you can’t cut sheet goods? Learn how to operate one and you’ll be just fine. I’ve cut panels all day for years and have no issues, keep the material tight to the fence and take your time, it’s a sheet good not a long skinny 2x4. Thanks for the comment and watching the video 👍🏼
@@jjabrams452 not sure what your seeing with my hand. Its near the blade as I am using the saw and controlling the piece. Good thing I have a saw stop 👍🏼
@@TwoMooseDesign I don't have much experience like you. It seems to hold well. My CNC is much smaller, Don't put too much, just on some areas like you would use a clamp or a screw.
![Lp. Последняя Реальность #95 ФИНАЛЬНЫЙ СЕАНС [ ̶Г̶и̶п̶н̶о̶т̶е̶р̶а̶п̶и̶я̶] • Майнкрафт](/img/1.gif)
6:06 for manny
6:01-6:07 realistically 😂
winnnnnnnerrr Send me an email or IG message. Twomoosedesign@gmail.com
Congrats!!
Great Tutorial and Tips ! 👍 Newbie to CNC here and appreciate the video 🙏
Best of luck! You got this 🙌🏼
I just upgraded my system to an Axiom CNC and ordered their horizontal clamping system - works fantastic! Not only pushes over but down also and it has a TON of clamping pressure. Game changer for me.
Nice! That’s exciting
Yes please make more videos on projects. That dish was amazing. Would love to see how you did the two sided carve!
I definitely will 🙌🏼
And… great ideas in this video. I’m doing the pvc stops for sure!
Try it! Cheap and pretty easy too do
Super practical and super needed video, well done and thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing this! Really helped me figure out what I wanted to do for my CNC.
Appreciate you watching😁
Great video. Easy and simple. Like your style
LOVE YOUR WORK GUYS 😊
What an excellent video! I love the simplicity of your method. I'm definitely going to do the PVC fence! I had a piece jump out of my hold downs today and this method would have certainly prevented that from happening. Brilliant!
Ugh that’s the worst! So frustrating, definitely give it a try, the pvc isn’t expensive and won’t trash your bits!
@@TwoMooseDesign thankfully it happened on the last of 4 parts and I was able to salvage it with some hand routing. Keep the great videos coming!
Great job. Helpful video!
Instead of going through the trouble of the PCV....you can just put a piece of plywood on top of your spoilboard and screw it down along the edges where you have your PVC now.....and basically cut away everything but leaving a straight piece on both sides (where you screwed down) that make a perfect 90 degree angle with a round circle in the corner for you corner of your wood to sit. Super fast and super accurate. And easy to remove if you wish without all the large holes in your spoilboard. I've been using this for years and it works great and super accurate. Just another option but your video was very good and precise. And really appreciate not showing your videos full of...."and now its time for 3 minute video about the sponsor of this video."
I made Morgan’s MatchFit wasteboard. I love the versatility. I made various hold downs with the MatchFit connectors. It was actually fun to do. I’ve been using it this morning and holding rock solid.
Thats awesome! I for sure want to try a few aspects from it! He had a few cool clamping ideas.
Just found your videos and I like your style so will watch out for more. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Appreciate it
Great video, thank you, some really good tips here. Always enjoy watching your projects.
Thank you I appreciate it 🙏🏼
Ironic place in time. I use to follow you on social media for a long time, going back to your first big bertha sander ( I believe that was it's name). The reason I stopped was because you started doing a lot of CNC work and at the time I thought I was a purest and it was "cheating". Well fast forward to now and I am close to retiring and am looking at getting into CNC making. So lucky me, I subscribed again. I am in the research phase, so I am overloading doing research on CNC machines, software, techniques etc. Thank you for this video - I may likely go this route when I purchase my CNC.
Love your videos, Learn a lot.
Thank you 🙏🏼
Good work holding ideas!
Thanks Bruce!
Thanks for the good ideas!
Thanks for watching ☺️
great video amigo, thank you
I'm glad I ran into your RUclips video. It's very nice, I plan to follow you.
Thank you!
Hello, Loved today's inlay. I am very interested in your work. I am planning on a small CNC system in the new shop. Yes on bowls. And Manny was 11:39 introduced 16:01 in upper left video. Thanks again
I Have a 220V 2.2Kw and I love it, it works like a charm and I have double the speed of feed and I'm working at 18000 RPM with a 2 1/4" Surfacing bit and the machine doesn't know that the bit is there. My X-35 Woodworker kik ass and I did make a vacuum system under neet as a hold down .... love it. I'm about to put some Piston to put as stops like your pipe but they are on the edge off the cutting area so like that I can release them and I still got the full cutting area to work with.
Nice, love hearing about other people’s systems! 👊🏼👊🏼
I came back to watch this again. Gotta nother CNC so I have 2 now. This one is a friggin beast and very quiet by the way. So, that means I've flattened a wasreboard 4x now and I have a tip to not cut too much off which is something most do not mention or like me I keep forgetting
Anyway, I forgot what my first cut was but it did not flatten all which is a good thing. The very next step is to zero your bit where the router did not cut. At the second cut set your start cut at 0 and your finish depth at 0! Do not cut anything because it will be at a lower point then when you started. You might have to do it again but you will not waste wood.
Speaking waste board. I think this time around I'm going to use wedges and a top down tightening system with no metal tracks. Just cut my own key track in the wood.
I Got my first CNC last night. Don’t even have it all put together just making sure I have all my ideas straight before I start. I just want to say using the Jointer to notch the waste board is the best use of the tool when you are still having to justify the expense to a spousal unit.. I’m going to see if it works for me.
Yes to the bowls when ever you have time.
I’ll definitely make one soon 🙌🏼
So SMOOTH
Thanks guys 🙌🏼
Great video as always, I would really like to see how you make the dish. Thanks, Jeff.
Thanks Rick! I’ll do a 3D video soon! Trying to think of a Interesting useful item to cut!
I copied your idea of rabbeting the edges of the MDF so that they sit on top of the T-track. I agree with the advantages you state. My jointer doesn't have the capability but it was easy to do with a rabbeting bit on the router table.
Nice! Worth the extra work in my opinion, my first set of t tracks pulled out the screws holding them in after a while those didn’t have the overlaps
Dude, video of the year for cnc'ers. Thanks how about a brief video on your inlay's!!!!
Thanks for watching!
good video. i like the pvc method. have you tried a smaller dia pipe so you dont loose as much work area? i use dowel like you have the pvc .5 inch dia. thinking about using the kfeg clamps that use the .750 inch dogholes and was wonsweing if you have used them and your input on them. Id like to see your bowls made. Ive made a few like i think you are doing it and yoyos lol the kids and grown ups have a lot of fub with them. I do several 2 sided jobs. I think id laminate that poplar and do it as a 2 sided job to avaoid the glue up of the 2 halves and just so i could say ive done that lol Best video ive seen in awhile thanks for sharing it with us.
Great vid. You have a lot of great ideas I can use.
I use the Festool system. Meaning, I have a grid of 20mm holes across the entire spoil board and a grid of threaded inserts for clamps. I can use all the Festool clamping items. There's a lot of 3rd party clamping fixtures for Festool I can use too.
Nice! Great idea
Thanks for watching
You nailed it. Keep the piece from sliding and you need very little “clamping” force. I downloaded TSO CAD files (free) to make my board MFT compatible. I have a professional ShopSabre machine with vac but I use the dog board most. TSO dogs and something like your wood block and maybe tape or small clamps on the corner and you’re good. The vac is HUGE for sheet goods, especially for keeping the sheet flat. One recommendation is to zero to the machine bed for most things, except vcarving. There is a reason the pros do it.
Thanks for the insight! I’ll definitely give it a try. Thanks for watching 😄
Great stuff! TY!
I have had very good luck with: XFasten Double Sided Woodworking Tape, 1-Inch by 36.
Small and large projects.
Hola gracias por enseñar! Como haces para usar el joystick??
Great video I stole the pvc idea from you!! Lol and I made the holes too tight and rather then re cut the board I took the pvc and cut one kerf lime from my multi tool into the pipe halfway thru and they work fantastic also you gave me another great idea I have to try
Where did you source your dust boot? And are you pleased with it performance
So after you cut the holes for the PVC, did you then setup a new XY zero in the machine to account for PVC?
I’m setting up my x50 woodworker , I really like the pvc idea. Do your files include the pockets for them ? Thanks !
They do! I believe I used 3/4” pvc the outside diameter was 1.06 in pretty sure
What’s up bud? Been following you for a while…I would love to see you Do a double sided carve how to video. No one’s really shown that on the 1f. Our hold down methods differ lol. I just can’t trust that double sided tape. Lol😂. I’m a brad nailer myself.
Ill definitely make one 👍🏼 hahaha that’s okay! What ever works best for you, I’ve seen a few people use plastic nails. Looks pretty cool but the nail guns expensive I believe
i’m getting ready to buy this cnc machine. so is that spindle powered by regular household outlet, or does it take a 220? and is it hard to set up with the liquid cooled?
Great video, Jef! I have been using Brad nails lately and I tend to just square up my piece with the front lip of my waste board but now that I got the journeyman width I need to re-do the Wasteboard. Got a link for your t track? Mine is too short.
Nevermind… added to cart from your description!
Thanks for watching! 🙌🏼🙌🏼 I’ll have to try brad nails again
I use finish nails and hammer. I would like to see double sided machining
6 minutes for Manny!
Love this style of wasteboard. Do you get any kind of flex from the pvc? I do epoxy carves where I pull pieces on and off multiple times. I’m wondering about accuracy.
I personally haven’t no, it would take a ton of force to flex them and I leave the inside whole so it really can’t go anywhere.
@@TwoMooseDesign ok great! I’m going to give that a go. It was either pvc pipe or 1/4” delrin rods.
@@MrHammy40 interesting haven’t seen that before, I’ve seen people use 1/4” wood dowels too
@@TwoMooseDesign I use 1/4” aluminum rod, but with the inner section still inside the PVC, that seems more stable.
Do you ever remove them? If so, when you put them back in Are they still plenty snug?
Great video. Thank you. Who was it that you recommend following for cutting board inlays? It was Nick ? Thanks again.
Nik @broinwood and thanks for watching!
Just search broinwood on RUclips he’ll come up
one more question lol on your bowls you make do you have issues with warping? i do i think its the depth i make them and my material probably has too much moisture. not sure but researching how to avoid warping when making deep pokets in bowls and trays etc
I have not tried small pvc. It’s just what scraps I had on hand 😆 I have not had issue but I’ve only made a few. You remove a bunch from both sides vs like a small tray they can warp if you don’t do them properly.
Ok. Got my glasses, Manny originally shows up at -10:06
I'm just getting a waste board on my ultimate bee, and I am 100% using this method as my first method you rock dude!
Quick and easy! I’ve also seen people use dowels instead of pvc pipe
@@TwoMooseDesign oooooo i like the dowels.....yes!
I’m new to the cnc world. How large were the squares you cut in the wasteboard with the v groove? Is it easy to program the machine to do that?
I did 2x2” squares. It depends what software you use, the machine can be run by pretty much all 𝙲𝙽𝙲 software. You can also buy files, I sell the grid in 1” and 2” squares
Awesome ! plagiarizing your setup. Just wondering when you were doing the cuts for the PVC pipes, did you cut to exact dimension of the pipe or ever so slightly undersize so it fits snug?
Slightly larger, the pipes are 1.06 I think I did 1.08?? Run a test cut on some scrap first 👊🏼👊🏼
I apologize if I missed in the video. But do you have plans for that smaller wooden mallet available? The rounded 3D one…
I do not yet! I’ll make it available soon
@@TwoMooseDesign thank you sir! I have the other mallet design but I think I like this one better!
I make small dish shapes and they never come out perfect. I would love to see how You do it.
I’ll make a few designs and do a video on them 🙌🏼
Do you ever really use the far left t track? They come in packs of 4, So I'm wondering if I really need to buy a 5th one!
I do but for jigs, you’d be fine with 4. I mostly use tape and screws. I don’t ever really clamp anything down.
Hi, i just saw your video, maybe is too late but Your dog is on top of the blue table by the electric panel 😅
Great video. Can you share Nick's channel? I could not get the last name, therefore, I'm unable to find his channel.
youtube.com/@Broinwood?si=_dL8Y5PzzP91fleE
I like the glue/tape method but i'm alergic to super glue so i need lots of ventilation in the shop
Super super super
Thanks!
🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
You're the man!
Where can I get one of those countersink drill bits with the depth adjustment ?? I've seen others and have used a few but not thrilled with the results.
The link is in the description I believe. It’s made by Amana. Highly recommended it’s expensive but I’ve had it for years
Thanks@@TwoMooseDesign
How many pieces of T track are you using for this setup?
6 I believe and that’s more than enough for me.
Instead of brad nails, try a 23ga pin nailer. I use those or blue tape/superglue for almost everything.
I’ll try that, I tried 18g??? I believe
@@TwoMooseDesign Pin nails are much thinner than brad nails. You'll need a pin nailer (smaller version of a brad nailer). They're thin enough that if you accidentally hit them with a bit it'll just plow right through them. They pull out easily with pliers - depending on the material you'll leave them either in the material or the waste board when you pry the material off (I use a 5-in-1 scraper because they're pretty stiff vs flexi scrapers). You can also clip them with side cutters or flat nose cutters.
Why do you need the y tracks in addition to the pvc pipe ?
I use them for jigs mostly. Push the item in the corner, the jig holds it tight
Hi, what are the waste board squares (or lines) for? I just have mine flattened, but wondering what you use them for? Thanks!
Just helps with alignment with jigs and workpieces
@@TwoMooseDesign OH ok, makes sense - thanks!
Hello moose can you make me design for my desk ? I need a specific design, can you guys do it for me ??
Is the pvc pipe just friction fit ?
Yes, pretty snug. I use a pliers to pop them out
I saw that pvc thing myself. DIdn't like the idea of big PVC pipes in my waste board so I use wooden dowels. Much cheaper and smaller and work just as good and do not break and are much less worrisome if a bit goes through them. When I don't want them there I just pull out my pliers and store them in a plastic bag.
Personally, I think wooden dowels is a much better way to go and worry free. Just a thought.
I'm watch your videos cause I'm wanting to sell mine and get the onefinity which is what I should have done in the first place.
Hi,
Are those waste board files for Carveco Make software?
They are vector files so you will need to program them yourself. It’s .svg and .dxf
@@TwoMooseDesign Thanks,
I am going to try to load the. Into Carveco.
11:43
🙌🏼🙌🏼
Oh, I gave the time that was left in the video as my time stamp, dummy me
11.41 Manny
- 10:03. Manny
oh is the wooden mallot you made a 3d model or did you use the molding feature in the software?
I made the 3D model myself in shaper3d. I can’t model 3Din v carve pro.
thanks fellow cheesehead
GO PACK GO!
Manny incoming at 6:04. 😂😂😂
Technically you lost by a minute because your first guess was off by 30 seconds hahaha I have two so ill send you one as well. Send me an email or message on IG. Twomoosedesign@gmail.com
@@TwoMooseDesign no worries!! I’ll just try on the next one man!
-10:17
Screwing down workpieces causing bumps on your surfaced wasteboard.
A putty knife removes them very easy
Why would you need to use a “lot” of force to hold a workpiece down?
Removing material generates a lot of force in multiple directions. If you're just using v bits not much force is applied. Id ratehr apply more force than needed than risk a piece breaking free and ruining my project.
Is it worth the time to not rout all the way through a project on the perimeter and then cut it out using a oscillating spindle sander to true up the piece?
I’m not sure what you are asking
Let's say I am making something, it doesn't matter what. In order to not damage the waste board would it be okay to not cut the perimeter of the piece to full depth and then cut it out after removing it from the waste board then sand the edge left by not cutting to full depth saving cutting into the wasteboard
Brillonwood? Browenwood? Brewenwood? ???
@broinwood
@@TwoMooseDesign thank you!!!
The part with the tablesaw looked safe...
Felt safe to me, what’s the point of a cabinet saw if you can’t cut sheet goods? Learn how to operate one and you’ll be just fine. I’ve cut panels all day for years and have no issues, keep the material tight to the fence and take your time, it’s a sheet good not a long skinny 2x4. Thanks for the comment and watching the video 👍🏼
Years of experience is the main reason for accidents.Watch your left hand at 01:38. Congrats you still have all ten. 😎
@@jjabrams452 not sure what your seeing with my hand. Its near the blade as I am using the saw and controlling the piece. Good thing I have a saw stop 👍🏼
YOu forgot to take off the ear protection
It plays music, I leave them on most of the time
Have you tried to use a hot glue gun?
I have not! Does it hold well?
@@TwoMooseDesign I don't have much experience like you. It seems to hold well. My CNC is much smaller, Don't put too much, just on some areas like you would use a clamp or a screw.