This video is an answer to a viewers question. If you are new to VCarve this tutorial will be helpful. If VCarve is old hat to you, this video is probably covering things you already know. The software tools covered are commonly used in just about every project. Are there any subjects you'd like to see a video on? Post a comment below.
I especially liked your explanation of using the array feature of Vectric VCarve; well done! Should I elect to use PVC for my positioning, I'd probably use smaller diameter PVC piping, as it would be a better option for the work I do. Notwithstanding, your concept is directly applicable to any workholding method employing circular holes. Thanks, Matt!
I am now a serious fan. After accidentally seeing one of your videos pop up (Just Do It...something for my shop and use cheap materials) I was sold...now this spoil board with PVC pipe is fabulous. I have a Longmill 48x30 on it's way....first time user....and you are giving me real meat I can use!!! I love IDC as well and Garret is a prince...well you both !!i Vetric looks like the way I am going as well...one more vote from you...Vcarve Pro. Ouch...not cheap!! Now I have to go and bing watch your channel!!! David Rodwell Winston Salem, NC
Thanks for the kind words David. This definitely isn't a cheap hobby, but it sure is fun. I hear the Longmill is a great machine, and I'm jealous of the work area size you'll have. Enjoy it!
Thanks. It really is an incredible piece of software. I have much to learn on it but yes, the basics are not to difficult once you get some time on it. RUclips channels Learn Your CNC and IDC Woodcraft have great tutorial videos. That's where I learned node editing which is incredible helpful. Thanks for watching!
To carve anything into your spoil board, surfacing, grids, etc., just home your machine, and you'll be at your X-Y starting point. 0, 0 lower left. Then just probe Z and run your carve.
Why not just use a 1/4 inch bit and peck a grid of holes and use short pieces of wood dowel? When I put in my spoil board I just make a 4"x4" grid and chop up a bunch of pins. Never worry about accidently cutting them and they're real easy to move around ... and no big holes in the board.
This is a great suggestion. If you look at my board, I can do that as well. This video was just covering a basic grid and answering a viewers question. I guess I should do a video on my entire spoil board system.
Thanks for your time and effort Matt, I'll be using this method on my machine. I also picked up on your recommended spoil board thickness and that nifty PVC vacuum hose support ! I didn't catch a spoil board leveling feed rate, spindle rpm and cut depth, that would be useful. Any thoughts on a hold down method ? T rail seems to be common but I wonder if there's another option ? Thanks again for your time.
Sorry for the late reply. I've been away from RUclips for a bit. For my 1.5" surfacing bit I feed between 120-150ipm depending on wood species with a pass depth of 0.075". I did a video on making your own hold downs about 3 years ago. They have worked great are still my go to method. You can watch it here - ruclips.net/video/1GIA6dKegEY/видео.html Thanks for watching.
Hey Matt, Thanks for the information. I've been in the process of setting up my shop so my CNC has been dormant for a little while but before it was, I wanted to do this to not mess up my MDF boards I have down. Does it matter where you start on this project? I usually like to start in the middle of the project. Thanks
Wow... exactly when you said "please give it a thumbs up", a multi-coloured border animated around the thumbs-up/thumbs-down button group, underneath the video. That's so cool! Is that something you, as a the creator, can set a trigger for at a specific time point in your video? Or some kind of RUclips automated thing, from speach recognition?...
@@MattMadeIt123 youtube “magic” then. Because i unliked, rewinded back, and it did it again when you said it. Did that a couple of times and it happened each time.
That’s a lot of pvc contraptions.. 3 points makes an even plane or 90. We use this theory in welding. Three points of angle iron on a shop floor and you can weld a totally flat gate without a table. It’s the same with spoilboards.
Great point. In practice I usually just use 4 pieces. 2 Lower left and 1 each towards the end of the work piece. I'll use more if I'm doing an aggressive carve. The lateral forces of a CNC machine are much greater than welding. Sometimes having extra support just gives me piece of mind. Thanks for watching.
I have the Amana and IDC databases downloaded into Vcarve. To be honest, both are pretty conservative and are good starting points. I find I can comfortably push my Onefinity about 20% above the suggested numbers. I would start with their numbers and make adjustments based on your material and machine.
When I complete each layer, do I save them as a file? I’m not getting the grid or pockets showing on the screen when I go to tool paths! again, thank you for the video!
You don't have to save each individual layer. They will all save as one project. Make sure designs are saved to the correct layers and that all layers you want to run tool paths for are turned on. If you're still having problems, email me the vectric file, and I'll take a look.
hey Matt. real quickly, how did you make sure the holes cut weren't into you t-track? did you manually account for their placement? wondering if making this board without accounting for that would have the spindle cut right into the t-track accidentally.
Why not just add two wooden fences perpendicular to each other? With a gap in the lower left corner for calibration. People seem to over think the fence.
That would block the ends of the spoil board. Often the work piece being carved doesn't entirely fit on the spoil board. With fences in the way, how would you do a tiled carve on a 6' long piece of wood? The fence must be modular and removable. Small pieces of PVP are solid, secure, easily movable, and easy to store.
This video is an answer to a viewers question. If you are new to VCarve this tutorial will be helpful. If VCarve is old hat to you, this video is probably covering things you already know. The software tools covered are commonly used in just about every project. Are there any subjects you'd like to see a video on? Post a comment below.
Newbie here. Just setting up and spoil board and wanted to make it with PVC jig. Your video was great at explaining how to do it. Thank you!!
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching.
Great tutorial! To go from the concept to the actual steps/clicks in the tool itself is a great help! Awesome stuff!
Thanks for watching.
I especially liked your explanation of using the array feature of Vectric VCarve; well done!
Should I elect to use PVC for my positioning, I'd probably use smaller diameter PVC piping, as it would be a better option for the work I do. Notwithstanding, your concept is directly applicable to any workholding method employing circular holes. Thanks, Matt!
1/2" PVC would work fine I'm sure. I'm an electrician by trade and had some 3/4" conduit laying around. Lol! Use what you got. Thanks for watching.
I am now a serious fan. After accidentally seeing one of your videos pop up (Just Do It...something for my shop and use cheap materials) I was sold...now this spoil board with PVC pipe is fabulous.
I have a Longmill 48x30 on it's way....first time user....and you are giving me real meat I can use!!! I love IDC as well and Garret is a prince...well you both !!i
Vetric looks like the way I am going as well...one more vote from you...Vcarve Pro. Ouch...not cheap!!
Now I have to go and bing watch your channel!!!
David Rodwell
Winston Salem, NC
Thanks for the kind words David. This definitely isn't a cheap hobby, but it sure is fun. I hear the Longmill is a great machine, and I'm jealous of the work area size you'll have. Enjoy it!
Thanks for this. I finally got my first CNC machine and am planning on doing this for my own spoilboard.
Glad I could help
Thank you for this video. I am a newbie only had had my machine 3 weeks. I wanted to do this just did not know how.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
@@MattMadeIt123 I keep learning more and more on my machine. Still have lots to learn
Great idea, will use some of these ideas while the drilling holes manually and using bench dogs - no CNC machine 🙂
I did the same in my outfeed/assembly table. Careful layout and drilled the dog holes by hand. Glad the video was helpful to you.
great info for a beginner. Easy to follow. Thanks
Glad you liked.
New to V Carve Pro. Great Video! Making it look easy not over complicating the process!!
Thanks. It really is an incredible piece of software. I have much to learn on it but yes, the basics are not to difficult once you get some time on it. RUclips channels Learn Your CNC and IDC Woodcraft have great tutorial videos. That's where I learned node editing which is incredible helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great Video. Easiest method yet for Spoilboard grids. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Patterned my 5 pro using this, had to make a few changes due to the size of my machine. Thanks for the video !
Glad it helped!
Very nice. I need to do this and figure out how to have the same starting point all the time.
To carve anything into your spoil board, surfacing, grids, etc., just home your machine, and you'll be at your X-Y starting point. 0, 0 lower left. Then just probe Z and run your carve.
Great video Matt. Using the offset helped with my hole alinement problem. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Thanks again for this video. Very helpful.
No problem. Glad it was helpful.
First time seeing the PVC method, I'll probably try it out on my machine.
I like it.
Thanks
You're welcome.
Why not just use a 1/4 inch bit and peck a grid of holes and use short pieces of wood dowel? When I put in my spoil board I just make a 4"x4" grid and chop up a bunch of pins. Never worry about accidently cutting them and they're real easy to move around ... and no big holes in the board.
This is a great suggestion. If you look at my board, I can do that as well. This video was just covering a basic grid and answering a viewers question. I guess I should do a video on my entire spoil board system.
Thanks for your time and effort Matt, I'll be using this method on my machine. I also picked up on your recommended spoil board thickness and that nifty PVC vacuum hose support ! I didn't catch a spoil board leveling feed rate, spindle rpm and cut depth, that would be useful. Any thoughts on a hold down method ? T rail seems to be common but I wonder if there's another option ? Thanks again for your time.
Sorry for the late reply. I've been away from RUclips for a bit. For my 1.5" surfacing bit I feed between 120-150ipm depending on wood species with a pass depth of 0.075". I did a video on making your own hold downs about 3 years ago. They have worked great are still my go to method. You can watch it here - ruclips.net/video/1GIA6dKegEY/видео.html Thanks for watching.
Thanx for this it is perfect for my setup as well…
You're welcome. It's a great setup. I really like it.
Hey Matt, Thanks for the information. I've been in the process of setting up my shop so my CNC has been dormant for a little while but before it was, I wanted to do this to not mess up my MDF boards I have down. Does it matter where you start on this project? I usually like to start in the middle of the project. Thanks
Starting lower left or in the middle doesn't matter. For this particular carve, I think lower left is more efficient, but either way will work.
Good , easy to follow instruction . Cheers!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you
You're welcome
Excellent video Matt. Thank you.
Thanks so much.
Wow... exactly when you said "please give it a thumbs up", a multi-coloured border animated around the thumbs-up/thumbs-down button group, underneath the video. That's so cool!
Is that something you, as a the creator, can set a trigger for at a specific time point in your video? Or some kind of RUclips automated thing, from speach recognition?...
That was either a happy accident or RUclips magic. Glad you enjoyed the video.
@@MattMadeIt123 youtube “magic” then. Because i unliked, rewinded back, and it did it again when you said it. Did that a couple of times and it happened each time.
Crazy. Never noticed that. I'll keep my eye open next time I'm watching a video.
Thanks!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
That’s a lot of pvc contraptions..
3 points makes an even plane or 90.
We use this theory in welding.
Three points of angle iron on a shop floor and you can weld a totally flat gate without a table.
It’s the same with spoilboards.
Great point. In practice I usually just use 4 pieces. 2 Lower left and 1 each towards the end of the work piece. I'll use more if I'm doing an aggressive carve. The lateral forces of a CNC machine are much greater than welding. Sometimes having extra support just gives me piece of mind. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video Matt!! I will use it
You bet!
Great Idea, my next project!
Great! Thanks for watching!
Very helpful thank you
Thanks. This was a huge help.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Great tutorial video!
Great video. Thanks
You're welcome, and thanks for watching!
Did you get all your tool profiles from idc woodcraft?
I have the Amana and IDC databases downloaded into Vcarve. To be honest, both are pretty conservative and are good starting points. I find I can comfortably push my Onefinity about 20% above the suggested numbers. I would start with their numbers and make adjustments based on your material and machine.
When I complete each layer, do I save them as a file?
I’m not getting the grid or pockets showing on the screen when I go to tool paths! again, thank you for the video!
You don't have to save each individual layer. They will all save as one project. Make sure designs are saved to the correct layers and that all layers you want to run tool paths for are turned on. If you're still having problems, email me the vectric file, and I'll take a look.
hey Matt. real quickly, how did you make sure the holes cut weren't into you t-track? did you manually account for their placement? wondering if making this board without accounting for that would have the spindle cut right into the t-track accidentally.
I don't use t track.
@@MattMadeIt123 well that solves that problem lol
Great video thanks a lot, do you also use t track?
Thanks. I don't use t-track in my spoil board.
Cool vid.
Thanks.
That's good stuff
Glad you liked it. 👍
Awsome thank you 😊!!!!
You're welcome!
Why not just add two wooden fences perpendicular to each other? With a gap in the lower left corner for calibration. People seem to over think the fence.
That would block the ends of the spoil board. Often the work piece being carved doesn't entirely fit on the spoil board. With fences in the way, how would you do a tiled carve on a 6' long piece of wood? The fence must be modular and removable. Small pieces of PVP are solid, secure, easily movable, and easy to store.
Nice
Thanks
nice
Thanks
Thanks
You're welcome.
Great video, Thanks.
Thank you and thanks for watching.