Nice systems, thanks for sharing. Mine is a bit modified with inserts placed in the first level spoil board. I use my t tracks all the time so need them exposed all the time. My sacrificial spoil board are the strips which I also attach to the 1st level spoil board vis the inserts. Thanks again for the great flexibility of your system.
Been looking for perfect system. Wasn't real cool with the threaded only nor did i like the T clamps only. So I was going to integrate them together. Then I came along your video today. I like it. I DO want the files. Then Wait another 4 weeks for my machine to arrive. o yes, dovetails. Hope to do these too.
Well thought out system! The one issue you might have with the threaded slates is that they are all cut independently to each other and that you are putting t-stacks in between them. The dog holes might not be square with the other pieces once you are all done. I had that issue when using a similar system so I had to fix the slates down first and then had the machine drill all the dog holes to have all the holes perfectly squared in reference to the machine. I guess the threaded holes do not need to be that accurate since they are just to fix material down but not used for reference.
I cut the slats on a table saw, so each of them are exactly the same (dont move the fence in between measurements). Then I reference 1 at a time on the table and cut out the holes. I have guide lines up each side to ref off of. Ive built 2 of these now and have had no issues... The biggest issue was making sure all the hold downs etc span across T Tracks etc. I get what you are saying, but as long as the slats are cut right, and they are layed down and CNCd properly you are golden. The bigger point is to spend the time 1 time and do it right. This isnt the easiest system, or the quickest or cheapest, but once its done, its done... Forever.. You never need to replace the bottom slats, ever... Thats assuming you cut sac boards for the top, which I highly recommend.
Great stuff!!! I'm just setting up a CNC and researching a spoilboard system. Like your approach and all the accessories that go with it. A lot of my projects will be re-run on a regular basis so I was planning to use a spoilboard as a jig/base for holding the material, your pinning/clamping system will be great for that! Thanks for posting!
This is exactly what I am looking for!! Lots of work and dedication has gone into this design. A couple of questions for you. 1. How many of those threaded inserts will be needed for the X-50 Woodworker? I counted about 24 per board. How many boards for the X-50 WW? Just so I know how many to order. 2. What size are those bench dogs? I'm guessing 20mm? 3. Does the file on Etsy come with instructions on how wide to cut the inserts? Thanks again!! I plan on redoing my 1F X-50 WW spoil board this weekend so look to be getting this taken care of soon.
Hey man, bought your files off etsy and excited to get it all setup this week on my Onefinity. Do you just add the threaded inserts from the top of the spoilerboard after it has been secured and before it is surfaced, or do you do all the layout cuts, insert the nuts, flip the boards over, resecure to the table, and then surface the boards?
Awesome file. I got it the other day for my new onefinity Journeyman. Had to make some changes since the file was for the woodworker but it wasn’t to difficult. Even for a newb. I also added some grid lines.
My Journeyman x50 was ordered a month ago, so I still have a while, but I am glad this worked fine. I assume some of the changes were due to the with of the Journeyman x50 being 48 inches?
@@deantokarsky5176 Yeah it was just the overall size. I also added grid lines which I highly suggest for when you want a flat surface to work on and not use the corner pieces or the dog holes.
@@Golfexpertbelieveme hi Mike, what did you do to make adjustments? Also interested in the grid, I literally just emailed Ryan about these 2 things ( I just purchased the files on etsy)
Excellent, well though out and modular. It’s pretty much perfect. Thanksgiving for sharing. Been searching for a good Solution. Your’s is better than good. It’s awesome
I didn't see or hear in the video how you fasten down the primary spoilboard strips? In the video you can see them moving around. How are they fastened to the main table?
I have the Onefinity Journeyman and just got my spoilboards cut which are 9” wide x 32” long. I have 5 of them and 4- 3/4" T-track which is 48”. It seems that your boards are less than 9” so my question will your file work with what I have?
Interesting idea - could the holes instead be cut in the base board and put treaded inserts there? Then use MDF strips between the T tracks as the spoil board? That way you don't have to have 3 layers of MDF.
This is exactly what I was imagining. Cut through holes in the waste board 'slats' for lack of a better term and put the threaded inserts in the base. This way you would have access to the T-track, inserts, and dog holes and keep that extra 3/4" not having to use the extra board. I would even consider a few extra inserts on each end for mounting the slats to the base countersunk about a 1/4" for easy mounting and replacing. I am still a few weeks out on getting my machine and will be reaching out to you soon to get this Ryan. Thanks for sharing!
@@daveyoung3965 thats a thought, and certainly doable. the files are essentially all the same if you wanted to do that. Just zero the table and off you go. Problem I see there is that the table tops arent generally flat, so you would have to surface it first. Id rather surface my spoil system than the table itself, but again, its possible..
@@reddogwoodcraft3508 I'm very new to cnc so bare with me. I had thought of the base board not being surfaced but would leaving it as is and just leveling/surfacing the top waste board be fine? The issue I see being - would the holes be miss aligned by enough to matter? I would assume you'd only need to pocket out the threaded inserts in the base board - enough to get them in - and then pocket out the waste board completely through for them and half way for the bench dogs. You could then attached your waste board to the base board by putting a screw in the bench dog hole?
@@reddogwoodcraft3508 See that's the woodworker in me and I do plan on 'surfacing' my top with a hand jointer plane on my benchtop, then more of the same on the MDF base the CNC will mount to, finally, I will surface the spoil board with the surfacing bit. I want this to be dead nuts accurate. Overkill I am sure but better looking at it than looking for it!
@@sethhanson5771 yes you could do that. The only downside to that would be you would be surfacing new spoils (assuming you dont use the sac board) each time vs 1 time. If you surface the MAIN board piece, every other one would be surfaced (assuming ur mdf is good) by default. But the way you are thinking would be fune.
Nice work. After seeing the design thinking why not use 5 - 8 of your 1/4 size boards. One top layer with inserts minus the t track attached to the table and top layer pieces as needed that attach to the lower level. I agree I want the real spoil board easy to make and replace. I been thinking of similar idea with the depth deep enough for bench dogs. My 1F is here now so time to actually make it.
Hi, I downloaded the spoilboard files today. Did you use a 1/8 inch upcut end mill and how did you mount the spoilboard while milling the holes. Specifically the 3/4 inch holes, how did you cut them and contain the waste?
This looks really cool. As a new CNC owner (totally new to CNC), I'm looking for a spoil board system. How do you like it after a year? How useful are the T-tracks, it seemed like your secondary board (which is brilliant) just covered them up. Thanks for posting this.
Really just depends what you use for the sac board... You can use the large square, which can cover them up (or allow the middle one to be used, but some others not). Or you can make individual sac boards which allow the use of all of the track. its really up to the user.
Great video and detailed explanantions! I just recieved my Woodworker, and the QCW frame. Do your slats match the same size of the QCW so I could use this plan? I think the QCW slats are 8 3/4" wide
Awesome setup. Will be buying it tonight. I'm really new at this and have a couple of questions. 1. How do you mount the slats to the table? 2. How thick of MDF did you use? 3. How did you cut the slats? 4. Were you able to get small sac boards added to files?
@@mrkevans13 I was trying to cut down on bit changes etc... If I had a hole cut (in the plans) with the 1/4 end mill it would be too big... I just countersink some from the top... the top of the base spoilboard will likely never be seen anyway :) I just build everything on top of it...
Hey Ryan, so question on this, how is it you are securing the 'sacraficial' board to the main board with the threaded inserts? Are you just not cuttting some of the threaded holes all the way through the size of a bolt head in the sacraficial piece to create a shoulder for a nut to grab onto and a smaller hole all the way through enough for the threads?
So... I have a few questions. but first, I did purchase your system even though my 1F wont be here for another few weeks. I'm in the process of gathering all the parts and pieces. For anyone on the fence, the instructions are well done with access to file updates, and links to materials needed. But here are my questions. 1) What type of MDF are you using, the stuff I'm finding at my home center looks like garbage and I'm going to need to visit a different supplier. The problem is my local plywood distributer has 20+ different brands of MDF and each of them have 5 or 6 different grades of MDF from Super light weight to FR to moisture resistant etc., it has left me with a migraine... LOL So any advice on what grade you are using would be great. 2) Has anyone suggested ditching the 2nd smaller square spoil board and just ripping and cutting more of the long pieces that go between the t-track? Seams silly to cover up the t-track when you could still reference the long narrow pieces with the bench dogs and bolt it down to the bottom piece the same way you do the small square piece. It's the same idea you just don't have to worry about moving stuff around and flipping it. I'd like to just make another 6 of those long pieces and just not put in the threaded inserts. So I'd install the bottom ones, surface that bottom spoil board, then put other boards on top without the insert's, reference and bolt them down, then surface again. Same concept, just a lot less moving and flipping between jobs. Any draw backs you can think of to this idea since you've been using the system? Do you think the file for the long board would need to be modified at all since I wouldn't be using the insert? Thanks in Advance.
First off.. I just grabbed a piece at HD. www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-MDF-Panel-D11612490970000/304325742 pretty standard MDF as far as what I can get. So I am not much help on what grade it is. Yes, on the slab question.. I include files there for just the slab pieces, you could remove the outer circle (where the threaded insert goes) and just cut the Doghole + screw hole. I do have folks doing that. Nothing at all wrong with that approach.
Fancy you should ask. IT DOESNT haha... sorry, a lot of folks have asked me to make it for the QCW, but without owning that myself, I wouldnt feel comfortable putting something out there. Thanks
Hello Ryan, I recently purchased your waste board file. I think it's the best one that I have seen online. I have downloaded it to my computer dropped it to the flash drive inserted the flash drive into the 1F controller. When l go to open the file I get a message "localhost says: Unsupported file type: svg". I'm not sure where I am going wrong here? I'm hoping you or someone could help me out.
In reference to the smaller spoil board that screws down…. Do you have to keep surfacing that each time you use it? Like you pull it off put it back on, is it still flat each time?
Fantastic job, I have been figuring different three layer designs and my plan of attack. You nailed it. Somehow today I was brought to your channel. Subscribed.
Thanks Gary.. not sure how many videos ill do, but I definitely wanted to make sure people understood the spoil board system... I have considered producing more content, now that my shop is done etc..
This is an awesome system! Well thought out and extremely versatile. I’m getting my new Avid 5x5 set up and am going to design mine based on your designs so big thanks. One question, did you do 1/4” or 3/8” threaded inserts?
That is awesome..I just got my 1F and have it all assembled on bench waiting for a wasteboard. I still need a few things but am mostly ready. I ordered T tracks. Just waiting on everything and I'll get started. Cant wait. Do you have a good link for the hardware? Nice Video. Thanks!
Not sure how far they are apart John... I do have a modified hole size thats exactly .76" which when pocketed correctly fits the kreg/festool dogs perfectly.... The ones in the video and in my stock files are .74, and fit a slightly smaller (much cheaper) dog.
I will like to get for a newcarve I just got. How can I cut that on my cnc, if usually the spoilerboard is larger than the work area. Will you have one for a cnc4newbie newcarve?
I wont be adding any more specific configs. BUT the width of the slabs are 4.75" + .75" for the t track... so you can always modify it to fit most machines by chopping off (or adding to) the Y, and trimming the final slab in the X.
I have a custom 4ft x4ft CNC that I designed. What program are your file designed in? I would like to purchase but change it to meet my CNC. Thanks for sharing.
I like this system. Now I need to find a way to mount my wood vertically so that I can cut dovetails. Any thought on how to incorporate a dovetailing feature into this design?
can you explain a bit more in how you are going to orient the piece? seems you could simply reference a corner (at the XY home, or the L bracket) and clamp the piece in by a number of methods (oops clamps, reg clamps etc).
@@reddogwoodcraft3508 I think he is referring to carving on the thin edge or side to cut dovetails. It would be like engraving the side of a cutting board, the edge, not the face, so that the piece would need to be mounted vertically to the front or rear of the machine.
@@daveyoung3965 Ahh ok... so you could probably pull this off with cam clamps and 2 straight edge blocks to hold up the piece. depending on how tall the piece is of course. I think there is too much variance in what you could be clamping in, like 1/2 " ply, 3/4" etc. This one would maybe need to be a custom job.
@@reddogwoodcraft3508 I had envisioned some type of slot in the waste board that allows for clamping stock vertically. I’ll need to give it more thought and see if I can come up with something that will work.
Bought your files. I have carveco maker + if do the bitmap to vector ability what do you figure I will need to do to make the files work in that manner?
Noob question. Once CNC cuts parts (I assume out of a single piece) do you level beforehand? Is there any other instructions with files in would buy? Thanks!
It still works... you just cut 3 more slabs, and the last slab will be slightly wider than the cutting max along the X... still works fine though... OR if you like to hang parts over that X max you could just physically cut that last slab narrower.
Love this idea!! My onefinity is on its way due first week of april (saw FB post) Assume you cut the mdf slats on a table saw first to size. 33' Length? Widths? 1) Are your t tracks a true 3/4 width? 2) What threaded inserts (TPI and length)did you use. I have brass fine threaded ones in 1/2" (1/4-20 interior threads), but not sure if they are good for mdf? 3)How to you make this system/grid actual grid system? Looks like you would first mount the uncut slats slats and t tracks into table base first after lining up with the machine cutting area, countersink and screw slats to table, surface, then run the cutting program for the dogs/threaded insert holes, then thread the inserts into the base from top, then? Like the idea of a top spoilboard as well (maybe could use 1/2" as there are no inserts to screw in?)
So I saw that you purchased (thanks) all the parts are in the instruction doc... so that should answer 1 and 2. As far as cutting it out. I would grab a sacrificial board, like 1/2" ply or more mdf, lay that down.. secure it. then cut the slats out on top of that. So you can cut straight through and not damage your table. Easier that way. For the sac board you COULD use 1/2" however I cant vouch for how the screws through 1 sac board + spoilboard would work... They may be too proud of the top surface to miss a bit passing by them. All my dimensions and depths account for the screws in the instructions. Thanks
each slab is 4.75" and then .75 for the t track. so as long as multiples of those numbers can fit on the X axis you are fully supported. just make more or fewer slabs. :)
Id need to know the exact dimensions between the rails and modify it accordingly. Id have to look and see what it would take. not against it if there is a market for it, of course.
I sincerely wish... I have some content recorded. My enclosure setup being one, which is pretty in depth.. and an indepth step by step on the spoil board system.. I just hate editing, and frankly suck at it...
@@markgarrett2971 I found a video editor. I need to negotiate with him to get my spoilboard vid out first. after that he can work on the enclosure vid.
How did you plan on holding down the spoil board ? I did not see any holes in the design for this function. Did you have a process of installation in mind for setting up the corner bracket and setting in the spoil boards? I have a Shapeoko 3 I plan on making this on while I wait for my Onefinity to arrive in April. I just bought your plans and am in the process of working on tool paths and buying parts recommended in PDF at this point.
I just counter sink a hole and screw it down to the table. The corner bracket has some recesses cut for screws. I didnt do it on the main slabs, because each person may choose a diff way of attaching them.
I really like your design - lots of thought put into it obviously. I would just question the usefulness of the dog holes. With 3/4" MDF, you are never going to be able to insert a dog far enough to be useful. You want the flat part of the dog to rest against the material, not the round part. Aside from that, it is great!
If you were just using 1 dog, i completely agree.. but if all dogs are in a line, the roung edge gives just as good of a reference as the flat side. For me anyway. I also use them as a quick reference when attaching the sac board on top, so it makes landing the screws easier. I will 100% agree the dogs are less useful than threads or clamps, but I def do use them. Thanks Robin
Well, on the table top, before anything goes down I mark an XY line at 0,0 in both directions to set up the first slab. Lay it down along the Y line, then t track, repeat. Havent heard of many problems yet... Thanks for the question
Looking at your Oops Clamps, did you modify them? Mine have the sliding bushing flipped compared to yours, where the wide section is on the same side as the recess of the clamp portion (where you can see the two metal dowels poking through). Mine look like they do on the Onefinity store, so just assumed you pulled your apart and flipped that piece.
Hah, never mind. I just watched their video and see how easy it is to pull everything apart. I'll have to try it both ways and see if one way works better than the other.
@@chadvoller Chad.. I did flip em. Reason being is that I apply the pressure from the screw downward, just made more sense to me that way :). not sure it matters
That is a nice setup. take this with a grain of salt. I know im a cheap ARS. 5$ i would have bought, 10$ i would have to think about it, 15$ i got to walk away. only thing i dont like about it is how high it will place your material and the price.
I understand.. its not for everyone. However if you look at other spoil boards out there, you can get one for 2$. Its a simple board with holes in it (but it works) Then you need to spend another 2$ for a fence piece, and another 2$ for a bracket, etc etc. The dev time in my board is multiple hours (dozens probably, over all) I could make a basic 2$ spoilboard in about 45 seconds. Plus im providing all brackets etc in one kit. again, its not for everyone, and no hard feelings at all.
These, however they are not 3/4" exactly.. Ill be modified a second set of boards to be exact 3/4" for Kreg etc dogs. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FRLZ9H3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
who idiot want waste money buy clamp system files, normal men can draw same simple at home easy. not big job, i just yesteday drawing whit Vcarve same spoilboard and clamp system, easy small job draw all parts, spoilboard have in my cnc now today and clamps i made tomorrow maybe, same system about. yotube have many many video many different similar clamp system and spoilboards, and many tutorial how draw all parts whit Vcarve or other software, simple easy job.
Wanted to check whether the listed threaded inserts in your PDF are anything special tolerance-wise? As Amazon is out of stock, and not sure if they are coming back. Was also curious if you have found that the threaded inserts are better than T-nuts? Thanks!
No. Those threads dont have any specific tolerance necessarily, however There are a lot of threaded inserts that dont work well with different thread pitches etc. So if you are going to swap out the threaded inserts you may also want to swap the screws, unless you know (test) the fit. With regards to t nuts. Ive done t nuts on a few prior cncs and always found them terrible. Most of them worked, but then 1-2 in the board would slip and come loose, completely ruining that spot. I always found threads much more reliable. Thanks
Jim, have you bought different threaded inserts and have you verified the screws listed in the plans work with them, if so? Amazon has been out of the inserts listed in the plans for some time.
@@leatherandlace9563 Hi, the alternate inserts I bought were these: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QGMCNS8. I did try one of the lengths of screws (1.5") and they threaded in just fine, though I have not built the spoil board with them yet. I also just checked the set of inserts mentioned in the PDF, and they are showing back in stock on 3/25/21.
Nice systems, thanks for sharing. Mine is a bit modified with inserts placed in the first level spoil board. I use my t tracks all the time so need them exposed all the time. My sacrificial spoil board are the strips which I also attach to the 1st level spoil board vis the inserts. Thanks again for the great flexibility of your system.
Best system I have seen yet! When my new machine arrives this will be my first project.
Been looking for perfect system. Wasn't real cool with the threaded only nor did i like the T clamps only. So I was going to integrate them together. Then I came along your video today. I like it. I DO want the files. Then Wait another 4 weeks for my machine to arrive.
o yes, dovetails. Hope to do these too.
Well thought out system! The one issue you might have with the threaded slates is that they are all cut independently to each other and that you are putting t-stacks in between them. The dog holes might not be square with the other pieces once you are all done. I had that issue when using a similar system so I had to fix the slates down first and then had the machine drill all the dog holes to have all the holes perfectly squared in reference to the machine. I guess the threaded holes do not need to be that accurate since they are just to fix material down but not used for reference.
I cut the slats on a table saw, so each of them are exactly the same (dont move the fence in between measurements). Then I reference 1 at a time on the table and cut out the holes. I have guide lines up each side to ref off of. Ive built 2 of these now and have had no issues... The biggest issue was making sure all the hold downs etc span across T Tracks etc. I get what you are saying, but as long as the slats are cut right, and they are layed down and CNCd properly you are golden. The bigger point is to spend the time 1 time and do it right. This isnt the easiest system, or the quickest or cheapest, but once its done, its done... Forever.. You never need to replace the bottom slats, ever... Thats assuming you cut sac boards for the top, which I highly recommend.
Great stuff!!! I'm just setting up a CNC and researching a spoilboard system. Like your approach and all the accessories that go with it. A lot of my projects will be re-run on a regular basis so I was planning to use a spoilboard as a jig/base for holding the material, your pinning/clamping system will be great for that! Thanks for posting!
Great design! I'm definitely buying the files once my onefinty journeyman arrives. Thanks!
Just picked this up, have yet to build my Onefinity Journeyman and this appears to be the perfect system to go with it.
This is exactly what I am looking for!! Lots of work and dedication has gone into this design. A couple of questions for you.
1. How many of those threaded inserts will be needed for the X-50 Woodworker? I counted about 24 per board. How many boards for the X-50 WW? Just so I know how many to order.
2. What size are those bench dogs? I'm guessing 20mm?
3. Does the file on Etsy come with instructions on how wide to cut the inserts?
Thanks again!! I plan on redoing my 1F X-50 WW spoil board this weekend so look to be getting this taken care of soon.
Hey man, bought your files off etsy and excited to get it all setup this week on my Onefinity. Do you just add the threaded inserts from the top of the spoilerboard after it has been secured and before it is surfaced, or do you do all the layout cuts, insert the nuts, flip the boards over, resecure to the table, and then surface the boards?
Brilliant System, which can be extended and easily adapted
Awesome file. I got it the other day for my new onefinity Journeyman. Had to make some changes since the file was for the woodworker but it wasn’t to difficult. Even for a newb. I also added some grid lines.
My Journeyman x50 was ordered a month ago, so I still have a while, but I am glad this worked fine. I assume some of the changes were due to the with of the Journeyman x50 being 48 inches?
@@deantokarsky5176 Yeah it was just the overall size. I also added grid lines which I highly suggest for when you want a flat surface to work on and not use the corner pieces or the dog holes.
@@Golfexpertbelieveme hi Mike, what did you do to make adjustments? Also interested in the grid, I literally just emailed Ryan about these 2 things ( I just purchased the files on etsy)
@@mrkevans13 I added grid lines and you have to size it to the Onefinity journeyman.
Damn that is fantastic! I just purchased a Next Wave Shark HD510, of which has yet to arrive, and I'm purchasing and planning the spoilboard for it.
awsome creativity, great work and thanks for sharing the design you worked so hard on for others as well ...
How do you fix the first spoilborad tat has inserts to your workbench top? I don't see any screws and they are moving. Thanks.
Excellent, well though out and modular. It’s pretty much perfect. Thanksgiving for sharing. Been searching for a good Solution. Your’s is better than good. It’s awesome
So if you are using the extra spoilboard on top then the bottom t tracks and bench dog holes are not necessary at all. Am I missing something?
Nice optional setup. What threaded inserts did you use? I do not have an Onefinity I have a Longmill MK2 30 by 48 but like this setup.
I didn't see or hear in the video how you fasten down the primary spoilboard strips? In the video you can see them moving around. How are they fastened to the main table?
I have the Onefinity Journeyman and just got my spoilboards cut which are 9” wide x 32” long. I have 5 of them and 4- 3/4" T-track which is 48”. It seems that your boards are less than 9” so my question will your file work with what I have?
It wont... You would have to cut all new spoilboard pieces... Maybe when that set of boards is toast you can look in to this.. thank you
😡 Thank you sir, wish that I had of seen the video first. Will do.
Interesting idea - could the holes instead be cut in the base board and put treaded inserts there? Then use MDF strips between the T tracks as the spoil board? That way you don't have to have 3 layers of MDF.
This is exactly what I was imagining. Cut through holes in the waste board 'slats' for lack of a better term and put the threaded inserts in the base. This way you would have access to the T-track, inserts, and dog holes and keep that extra 3/4" not having to use the extra board. I would even consider a few extra inserts on each end for mounting the slats to the base countersunk about a 1/4" for easy mounting and replacing.
I am still a few weeks out on getting my machine and will be reaching out to you soon to get this Ryan. Thanks for sharing!
@@daveyoung3965 thats a thought, and certainly doable. the files are essentially all the same if you wanted to do that. Just zero the table and off you go. Problem I see there is that the table tops arent generally flat, so you would have to surface it first. Id rather surface my spoil system than the table itself, but again, its possible..
@@reddogwoodcraft3508 I'm very new to cnc so bare with me. I had thought of the base board not being surfaced but would leaving it as is and just leveling/surfacing the top waste board be fine? The issue I see being - would the holes be miss aligned by enough to matter? I would assume you'd only need to pocket out the threaded inserts in the base board - enough to get them in - and then pocket out the waste board completely through for them and half way for the bench dogs. You could then attached your waste board to the base board by putting a screw in the bench dog hole?
@@reddogwoodcraft3508 See that's the woodworker in me and I do plan on 'surfacing' my top with a hand jointer plane on my benchtop, then more of the same on the MDF base the CNC will mount to, finally, I will surface the spoil board with the surfacing bit. I want this to be dead nuts accurate. Overkill I am sure but better looking at it than looking for it!
@@sethhanson5771 yes you could do that. The only downside to that would be you would be surfacing new spoils (assuming you dont use the sac board) each time vs 1 time. If you surface the MAIN board piece, every other one would be surfaced (assuming ur mdf is good) by default. But the way you are thinking would be fune.
Love this system. Are you working on files for the new Foreman 48x48?
Very cool system! How are you securing the MDF sections between the T track? Do those get wood screwed to the table below?
Nice work. After seeing the design thinking why not use 5 - 8 of your 1/4 size boards. One top layer with inserts minus the t track attached to the table and top layer pieces as needed that attach to the lower level. I agree I want the real spoil board easy to make and replace. I been thinking of similar idea with the depth deep enough for bench dogs. My 1F is here now so time to actually make it.
The files are all in the kit, so i know some people just use extra slabs on top vs the square pieces... totally doable :)
Love This! Do you have files for a Laguna Swift 4x4?
Hi, I downloaded the spoilboard files today. Did you use a 1/8 inch upcut end mill and how did you mount the spoilboard while milling the holes. Specifically the 3/4 inch holes, how did you cut them and contain the waste?
Anthony, please check your etsy messages.. I responded to you there. Thank you
Does the design package contain all sizes of Onefinity? Elite Foreman?
This looks really cool. As a new CNC owner (totally new to CNC), I'm looking for a spoil board system. How do you like it after a year? How useful are the T-tracks, it seemed like your secondary board (which is brilliant) just covered them up. Thanks for posting this.
Really just depends what you use for the sac board... You can use the large square, which can cover them up (or allow the middle one to be used, but some others not). Or you can make individual sac boards which allow the use of all of the track. its really up to the user.
Exactly what im designing for my cnc cool.
Great video and detailed explanantions! I just recieved my Woodworker, and the QCW frame. Do your slats match the same size of the QCW so I could use this plan? I think the QCW slats are 8 3/4" wide
unfortunately they dont match... and I dont have a qcw frame to reference to make one work... wish i did .. thanks tho
@@InTheLab3d Just curious... Do you surface both the slats and your sacrificial wasteboard?
Awesome setup. Will be buying it tonight. I'm really new at this and have a couple of questions. 1. How do you mount the slats to the table? 2. How thick of MDF did you use? 3. How did you cut the slats? 4. Were you able to get small sac boards added to files?
3/4" mdf. countersunk screws. cut the slats on a table saw. Small sac boards are added :)
@@reddogwoodcraft3508 In regards to mounting the slats, what / where are the counter sunk screws?
@@mrkevans13 It doesnt matter... I just throw 4-5 in per slab spaced fairly evenly...
@@InTheLab3d from the top down or from the underside?
I guess I was imagining nicely cut holes
@@mrkevans13 I was trying to cut down on bit changes etc... If I had a hole cut (in the plans) with the 1/4 end mill it would be too big... I just countersink some from the top... the top of the base spoilboard will likely never be seen anyway :) I just build everything on top of it...
Hey Ryan, so question on this, how is it you are securing the 'sacraficial' board to the main board with the threaded inserts? Are you just not cuttting some of the threaded holes all the way through the size of a bolt head in the sacraficial piece to create a shoulder for a nut to grab onto and a smaller hole all the way through enough for the threads?
Exactly right... cap head screws with enough area around the screw hole to not drive in to it...
Nice job..so how are you fastening down the lower spoilboard to your table? What size screws would you use?
So... I have a few questions. but first, I did purchase your system even though my 1F wont be here for another few weeks. I'm in the process of gathering all the parts and pieces. For anyone on the fence, the instructions are well done with access to file updates, and links to materials needed. But here are my questions. 1) What type of MDF are you using, the stuff I'm finding at my home center looks like garbage and I'm going to need to visit a different supplier. The problem is my local plywood distributer has 20+ different brands of MDF and each of them have 5 or 6 different grades of MDF from Super light weight to FR to moisture resistant etc., it has left me with a migraine... LOL So any advice on what grade you are using would be great. 2) Has anyone suggested ditching the 2nd smaller square spoil board and just ripping and cutting more of the long pieces that go between the t-track? Seams silly to cover up the t-track when you could still reference the long narrow pieces with the bench dogs and bolt it down to the bottom piece the same way you do the small square piece. It's the same idea you just don't have to worry about moving stuff around and flipping it. I'd like to just make another 6 of those long pieces and just not put in the threaded inserts. So I'd install the bottom ones, surface that bottom spoil board, then put other boards on top without the insert's, reference and bolt them down, then surface again. Same concept, just a lot less moving and flipping between jobs. Any draw backs you can think of to this idea since you've been using the system? Do you think the file for the long board would need to be modified at all since I wouldn't be using the insert? Thanks in Advance.
First off.. I just grabbed a piece at HD. www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-MDF-Panel-D11612490970000/304325742 pretty standard MDF as far as what I can get. So I am not much help on what grade it is.
Yes, on the slab question.. I include files there for just the slab pieces, you could remove the outer circle (where the threaded insert goes) and just cut the Doghole + screw hole. I do have folks doing that. Nothing at all wrong with that approach.
Wow! This is brilliant! Thanks so much!
Great system, Ryan. How well will it work for someone using OneFinity's QCW frame with its predefined t-track positions?
Fancy you should ask. IT DOESNT haha... sorry, a lot of folks have asked me to make it for the QCW, but without owning that myself, I wouldnt feel comfortable putting something out there. Thanks
What diameter is you dog holes for Festool Dogs? My Festool dogs are .785"
I’d like to know how you cut these? Do you put the whole thing down then run the program or do you have to do one slat at a time?
Hello Ryan, I recently purchased your waste board file. I think it's the best one that I have seen online. I have downloaded it to my computer dropped it to the flash drive inserted the flash drive into the 1F controller. When l go to open the file I get a message "localhost says: Unsupported file type: svg". I'm not sure where I am going wrong here? I'm hoping you or someone could help me out.
Great system! Everything makes sense
Have your plans for woodworker. Just ordered the journeyman upgrade. Any plan update for that yet??
nice idea thanks Im gonna try that when my machine comes.
In reference to the smaller spoil board that screws down…. Do you have to keep surfacing that each time you use it?
Like you pull it off put it back on, is it still flat each time?
Sorry, I know that sounds pretty noobish…. But that’s me lol
This is an incredible system!! It looks like it will make life so much easier!!
Fantastic job, I have been figuring different three layer designs and my plan of attack. You nailed it. Somehow today I was brought to your channel. Subscribed.
Thanks Gary.. not sure how many videos ill do, but I definitely wanted to make sure people understood the spoil board system... I have considered producing more content, now that my shop is done etc..
This is an awesome system! Well thought out and extremely versatile. I’m getting my new Avid 5x5 set up and am going to design mine based on your designs so big thanks. One question, did you do 1/4” or 3/8” threaded inserts?
1/4 20
@@InTheLab3d Thanks, Ryan!
That is awesome..I just got my 1F and have it all assembled on bench waiting for a wasteboard. I still need a few things but am mostly ready. I ordered T tracks. Just waiting on everything and I'll get started. Cant wait. Do you have a good link for the hardware? Nice Video. Thanks!
all the hardware is in my instruction guide. which is of course part of the file package. I should try to make at least the HW public haha.
Very nice and well thought out.
Are the dog holes 96mm apart, horizontally and vertically like on a Festool MFT? Similarly are the holes 20mm?
Not sure how far they are apart John... I do have a modified hole size thats exactly .76" which when pocketed correctly fits the kreg/festool dogs perfectly.... The ones in the video and in my stock files are .74, and fit a slightly smaller (much cheaper) dog.
I will like to get for a newcarve I just got. How can I cut that on my cnc, if usually the spoilerboard is larger than the work area. Will you have one for a cnc4newbie newcarve?
I wont be adding any more specific configs. BUT the width of the slabs are 4.75" + .75" for the t track... so you can always modify it to fit most machines by chopping off (or adding to) the Y, and trimming the final slab in the X.
I have a custom 4ft x4ft CNC that I designed. What program are your file designed in? I would like to purchase but change it to meet my CNC. Thanks for sharing.
I can open then in VCarve
I like this system. Now I need to find a way to mount my wood vertically so that I can cut dovetails. Any thought on how to incorporate a dovetailing feature into this design?
can you explain a bit more in how you are going to orient the piece? seems you could simply reference a corner (at the XY home, or the L bracket) and clamp the piece in by a number of methods (oops clamps, reg clamps etc).
@@reddogwoodcraft3508 I think he is referring to carving on the thin edge or side to cut dovetails. It would be like engraving the side of a cutting board, the edge, not the face, so that the piece would need to be mounted vertically to the front or rear of the machine.
@@daveyoung3965 Ahh ok... so you could probably pull this off with cam clamps and 2 straight edge blocks to hold up the piece. depending on how tall the piece is of course. I think there is too much variance in what you could be clamping in, like 1/2 " ply, 3/4" etc. This one would maybe need to be a custom job.
@@reddogwoodcraft3508 I had envisioned some type of slot in the waste board that allows for clamping stock vertically. I’ll need to give it more thought and see if I can come up with something that will work.
Peter Woychesko Mike Farrington has a video about this concept.
Bought your files. I have carveco maker + if do the bitmap to vector ability what do you figure I will need to do to make the files work in that manner?
replied to you on etsy.. sorry it took a while.. busy day with the fam. thanks
Your etsy listing doesn't list what software the files are for. Can you help me out with that question?
Thanks
top secret info I suppose. I was looking as well but not pulling the trigger until I know what I'm buying
@@Todd-W There are VCarve files plus DXF, SVG and AI files
Noob question. Once CNC cuts parts (I assume out of a single piece) do you level beforehand? Is there any other instructions with files in would buy? Thanks!
Instructions are included... I cut the slabs with a table saw, but you could cut em on the CNC. Surface the spoilboard after its all layed out.
@@InTheLab3d One the spoil board is all layed out and installed and have finished with the inserts, T track ect, you surface it all?
@@bruced3763 yes. I find the highest spot and just take off a tiny sliver until I've flattened it all. Definitely key to surface it
@@InTheLab3d Thank you.
Love it!
Awesome system! Curious if you have adapted the design to work for the journeyman yet. I would love to pick that up if you have.
It still works... you just cut 3 more slabs, and the last slab will be slightly wider than the cutting max along the X... still works fine though... OR if you like to hang parts over that X max you could just physically cut that last slab narrower.
What are the dimensions of this board?
Love this idea!! My onefinity is on its way due first week of april (saw FB post)
Assume you cut the mdf slats on a table saw first to size. 33' Length? Widths?
1) Are your t tracks a true 3/4 width?
2) What threaded inserts (TPI and length)did you use. I have brass fine threaded ones in 1/2" (1/4-20 interior threads), but not sure if they are good for mdf?
3)How to you make this system/grid actual grid system?
Looks like you would first mount the uncut slats slats and t tracks into table base first after lining up with the machine cutting area, countersink and screw slats to table, surface, then run the cutting program for the dogs/threaded insert holes, then thread the inserts into the base from top, then? Like the idea of a top spoilboard as well (maybe could use 1/2" as there are no inserts to screw in?)
So I saw that you purchased (thanks) all the parts are in the instruction doc... so that should answer 1 and 2.
As far as cutting it out. I would grab a sacrificial board, like 1/2" ply or more mdf, lay that down.. secure it. then cut the slats out on top of that. So you can cut straight through and not damage your table. Easier that way.
For the sac board you COULD use 1/2" however I cant vouch for how the screws through 1 sac board + spoilboard would work... They may be too proud of the top surface to miss a bit passing by them. All my dimensions and depths account for the screws in the instructions.
Thanks
@@InTheLab3d did you layout all 6 slats or do each individually?
Meaning did you cut all 6 slats at once layed out? And didn secure the slats with blue tape/ca?
@@ChipPuccio i cut each one individually.
I love this system I have the i2r8 and would like to use your system for my machine is it possible to adapt the file to work with my machine?
each slab is 4.75" and then .75 for the t track. so as long as multiples of those numbers can fit on the X axis you are fully supported. just make more or fewer slabs. :)
Very slick!
Great work!
very nice job, well done.
Helllo Ryan, I bought your designs,, But I think I downloaded the files for Shapeoko, and I have the OneFinity
Does it Matter ???
Problem Solved!!! Ryan was kind enough to send me the link for the OneFinity Spoilboard system without any trouble, Well spent Money,, Thanks Ryan :)
Excellent
I’m getting the x carve pro 4x4 in May, any chance of having files for that??
Id need to know the exact dimensions between the rails and modify it accordingly. Id have to look and see what it would take. not against it if there is a market for it, of course.
nice video, are you going to make more content?
I sincerely wish... I have some content recorded. My enclosure setup being one, which is pretty in depth.. and an indepth step by step on the spoil board system.. I just hate editing, and frankly suck at it...
@@InTheLab3d would love to see your take on the enclosure
@@markgarrett2971 I found a video editor. I need to negotiate with him to get my spoilboard vid out first. after that he can work on the enclosure vid.
Great Idea, Subscribed
Will this work on a Shark HD4?
Badass
I dint think of that sacrificial board though thanks for the idea i like your way of thinking. Awesome design
How did you plan on holding down the spoil board ? I did not see any holes in the design for this function. Did you have a process of installation in mind for setting up the corner bracket and setting in the spoil boards? I have a Shapeoko 3 I plan on making this on while I wait for my Onefinity to arrive in April. I just bought your plans and am in the process of working on tool paths and buying parts recommended in PDF at this point.
I just counter sink a hole and screw it down to the table. The corner bracket has some recesses cut for screws. I didnt do it on the main slabs, because each person may choose a diff way of attaching them.
I really like your design - lots of thought put into it obviously. I would just question the usefulness of the dog holes. With 3/4" MDF, you are never going to be able to insert a dog far enough to be useful. You want the flat part of the dog to rest against the material, not the round part. Aside from that, it is great!
If you were just using 1 dog, i completely agree.. but if all dogs are in a line, the roung edge gives just as good of a reference as the flat side. For me anyway. I also use them as a quick reference when attaching the sac board on top, so it makes landing the screws easier. I will 100% agree the dogs are less useful than threads or clamps, but I def do use them. Thanks Robin
That's a pretty cool set up, but how do you align them perfectly to the machine? If they end up ever so slightly crooked, everything will be crooked.
Well, on the table top, before anything goes down I mark an XY line at 0,0 in both directions to set up the first slab. Lay it down along the Y line, then t track, repeat. Havent heard of many problems yet... Thanks for the question
What size are the threaded inserts?
1/4 20
@@InTheLab3d 15mm or 20mm? The two options are 1/4-20x15mm or 1/4-20x20mm
@@Golfexpertbelieveme 15
Looking at your Oops Clamps, did you modify them? Mine have the sliding bushing flipped compared to yours, where the wide section is on the same side as the recess of the clamp portion (where you can see the two metal dowels poking through). Mine look like they do on the Onefinity store, so just assumed you pulled your apart and flipped that piece.
Hah, never mind. I just watched their video and see how easy it is to pull everything apart. I'll have to try it both ways and see if one way works better than the other.
@@chadvoller Chad.. I did flip em. Reason being is that I apply the pressure from the screw downward, just made more sense to me that way :). not sure it matters
That is a nice setup. take this with a grain of salt. I know im a cheap ARS. 5$ i would have bought, 10$ i would have to think about it, 15$ i got to walk away. only thing i dont like about it is how high it will place your material and the price.
I understand.. its not for everyone. However if you look at other spoil boards out there, you can get one for 2$. Its a simple board with holes in it (but it works) Then you need to spend another 2$ for a fence piece, and another 2$ for a bracket, etc etc. The dev time in my board is multiple hours (dozens probably, over all) I could make a basic 2$ spoilboard in about 45 seconds. Plus im providing all brackets etc in one kit.
again, its not for everyone, and no hard feelings at all.
@@reddogwoodcraft3508 I dont want to step on toes. but there are good free ones. That is why i think price is a bit high.
absolutely. and anyone with the time and effort can make this, or better on their own. Trust me, no hard feelings at all :)
Which benchdogs are u using?
These, however they are not 3/4" exactly.. Ill be modified a second set of boards to be exact 3/4" for Kreg etc dogs. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FRLZ9H3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But im using wood dowels instead of aluminum
Nice work!
thank you
who idiot want waste money buy clamp system files, normal men can draw same simple at home easy. not big job, i just yesteday drawing whit Vcarve same spoilboard and clamp system, easy small job draw all parts, spoilboard have in my cnc now today and clamps i made tomorrow maybe, same system about. yotube have many many video many different similar clamp system and spoilboards, and many tutorial how draw all parts whit Vcarve or other software, simple easy job.
Thank you... super helpful
Wanted to check whether the listed threaded inserts in your PDF are anything special tolerance-wise? As Amazon is out of stock, and not sure if they are coming back. Was also curious if you have found that the threaded inserts are better than T-nuts? Thanks!
No. Those threads dont have any specific tolerance necessarily, however There are a lot of threaded inserts that dont work well with different thread pitches etc. So if you are going to swap out the threaded inserts you may also want to swap the screws, unless you know (test) the fit.
With regards to t nuts. Ive done t nuts on a few prior cncs and always found them terrible. Most of them worked, but then 1-2 in the board would slip and come loose, completely ruining that spot. I always found threads much more reliable.
Thanks
Jim, have you bought different threaded inserts and have you verified the screws listed in the plans work with them, if so? Amazon has been out of the inserts listed in the plans for some time.
@@leatherandlace9563 Hi, the alternate inserts I bought were these: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QGMCNS8. I did try one of the lengths of screws (1.5") and they threaded in just fine, though I have not built the spoil board with them yet. I also just checked the set of inserts mentioned in the PDF, and they are showing back in stock on 3/25/21.
@@Entityism Thanks Jim! I just received the inserts and screws I ordered and they thread fine together as well. Thanks!