Great video for beginners! This could be a little series of making gunplas with different proccesses but for beginners with really fewer and basic tools for panel line, decals, top coat, paint... Keep up the great work! Thank you!
Another good tip is to take your time; especially when you're starting out. If the sanding sponge isn't working for you, another option is to use a glass file.
ternyata flauros keren juga ya bang, hehehe, nice tutorial, i'll show this to my nephew, she started into gunpla lately, i'm sure your video will help her improving her skill, thank you bang E
My friend, exactly the video I was looking for! Straightforward and basic, and I love the "keep on building" theme ❤ Though I still have some questions : 1) Can you explain the different numbers for the sponge ? Why do we need to do from lower numbers to higher numbers ? 2) Didn't catch the difference between single nipper and double 3) You didn't explain why do we need to cut away from the part on the runner 4) Sponges ok, nippers ok, tweezers ok, qtip ok, but why do you have a hobby knife on your table ? Did you use it during the build up ? For next video I would suggest the next step after assembling your gunpla : base coating, liner, painting, etc... Step by step guide with probably 4 more videos, starting with this one ! I would do a chronological playlist "Your first gunpla from A to Z in 5 videos" Many thanks my friend for your time and relaxing music++
I can answer the first 3 of your questions. 1) The numbers on the sanding sponge describe its grit. That's a measure of the size and number of the grains of sand on the surface of the sanding sponge. Smaller numbers, like 200 grit which would be more commonly seen in wood or metal working, mean the sponge has fewer but larger grains that are suitable for evening out only very uneven surfaces. Largers numbers, like 1000 grit or 1200 grit, mean the sponge has many small grains suitable for a surface that's already relatively even. By moving from smaller numbers to large you can polish a surface by quickly removing large imperfections with the large grain size of, for example a 600 or 800 grit sponge, and then clean up the remaining small imperfections with more delicate sponges from 1000 grit up. Which grit ranges are appropriate varies with materials, and sandpaper is measured the same way. 2) A single-edged nipper is only sharp on one of the two blades. Double-edged nipper have both blades sharpened. Single-edged nippers can be desirable because if a double-edged nipper is not made extremely well then the blades won't line up and the plastic has to be torn instead of cut where they should have met. A single edge avoids that problem. 3) Cutting the runner twice, first away from the part and then a second cut to proper size, reduces stress on the plastic. Under stress most plastics will turn white, so if you do nothing to avoid that stress your model will be covered in white spots even in areas that should be other colors. As I understand it, the technique works because plastic molecules form in long chains, so when you cut plastic a far larger portion of the material resists the cut than what your blade contacts. The first cut breaks those chains, and allows for an easier and more precise cut the second time.
Super clean answer my friend, thanks a bunch for your time! Looking at some SD Gunpla right now after Warhammer minis, looking nice. Only missing the 4th question then, probably someday from @EAGunpla ++
Some people use a hobby knife to chip away at the small nubs left over. This can be more dangerous as you can possibly cut yourself, so always cut away from where your hand/fingers are. Hobby knifes can also be useful for separating the front skirt armor if you want them to move independently from each other. In most cases you can use nippers, but sometimes the part holding them together is thicker which will easily warp the peg. You can sometimes separate the back skirt armor, but they often don’t have the little ball parts so they aren’t very secure.
I would have loved a video like this when I first started building gunpla. One thing that I would like to add, though, is that you shouldn't sand the poly cap parts. You only have to cut them flush to the part.
Video ni aku akan pass kat member2 yg aku nak racun kan selalu cakap tak pandai pasang.. akan bertambahlah manusia rosak mcm kita lepas ni habis duit kat mainan.. jgn rosak sorg rosak bawak org 😂😂
Do you really Recommend using something to sand out the pieces ? I'm watching this video just before building my first ever Gunpla (RG Eva 02) and I don't have any sanding sponge/paper at hand I'll maybe not paint the thing, but i want to know if it's really necessary after you've cut the pieces from the board
Its hard to find the MadWorks sanding sponges in Aus, what would you recommend in alternative brands such as Dspiae or Godhand ( grit and thickness). Thanks
@@EAGunpla yeah that's true!, i just remember the main thing that put me off in the beginning was the amount of time it took to build, i got an RG and it took me like 9 hours haha now i can knock one out in half the time if not less
These are the very minimum tools needed to get a decent result. If you want to get into this hobby, you have to invest atleast a nipper. You can use nail clipper but it will look bad when assembled.
Nail trimmer and cutter knife. Nail trimmer comes with the file used for the nail which can be an alternative for the sanding files/sponges. The cutter can be a tad tricky but should do the job with the right handling. This of course would work better with the proper beginner stuff for gunpla building, but as someone who couldn't afford those stuff back then, these were all I need lol And there's also some wire cutting pliers which comes with its own sizes but still convenient to use and are available at hardware or general stores. Bought mine dirt cheap, still using it to this day heh
I'd say the beginner can buy tool kits for a decent price. USA Gundam Store sells the Apex kit for around $24, plus, they can also check their local hobby store for kits. Mine sells the Mr Hobby tool set for $30. Sanding paper, like the Madworks he showed, is like $11 for the bundle he showed. So, I'd say $41-ish is a low cost of entry for the hobby for tools that can last a while before people decide if they want to upgrade and expand.
I dont think so they. it just very tricky to bring out the custom build out of them. Like barbatos that ass hat take forever to custom build especially if you have multiple color separation. one of the best MG and a nightmare to custom
Hi everyone! Don’t forget to share your build on Instagram and put a hashtag #eacommunitybuilds to be featured on my Instagram!
I'd really love to see an updated tour of your studio, including your setup and the tools you use.
Great video for beginners! This could be a little series of making gunplas with different proccesses but for beginners with really fewer and basic tools for panel line, decals, top coat, paint... Keep up the great work! Thank you!
Great suggestion! I will try to do more series towards beginners! It is also one of the main thing I want to do more in this channel.
Another good tip is to take your time; especially when you're starting out.
If the sanding sponge isn't working for you, another option is to use a glass file.
Great point! Thanks for the suggestion!
@xxnike0629xx do you actually practice what you preach, suiton?
Seen your videos it's so relaxing and inspiring!!!
Thank you so much! Glad you like it bro! 😁
ternyata flauros keren juga ya bang, hehehe, nice tutorial, i'll show this to my nephew, she started into gunpla lately, i'm sure your video will help her improving her skill, thank you bang E
I really love your videos man amazing work as always and hope you're doing well! :D
Hey man thanks for your support!!!
My friend, exactly the video I was looking for! Straightforward and basic, and I love the "keep on building" theme ❤ Though I still have some questions :
1) Can you explain the different numbers for the sponge ? Why do we need to do from lower numbers to higher numbers ?
2) Didn't catch the difference between single nipper and double
3) You didn't explain why do we need to cut away from the part on the runner
4) Sponges ok, nippers ok, tweezers ok, qtip ok, but why do you have a hobby knife on your table ? Did you use it during the build up ?
For next video I would suggest the next step after assembling your gunpla : base coating, liner, painting, etc... Step by step guide with probably 4 more videos, starting with this one ! I would do a chronological playlist "Your first gunpla from A to Z in 5 videos"
Many thanks my friend for your time and relaxing music++
I can answer the first 3 of your questions.
1) The numbers on the sanding sponge describe its grit. That's a measure of the size and number of the grains of sand on the surface of the sanding sponge. Smaller numbers, like 200 grit which would be more commonly seen in wood or metal working, mean the sponge has fewer but larger grains that are suitable for evening out only very uneven surfaces. Largers numbers, like 1000 grit or 1200 grit, mean the sponge has many small grains suitable for a surface that's already relatively even. By moving from smaller numbers to large you can polish a surface by quickly removing large imperfections with the large grain size of, for example a 600 or 800 grit sponge, and then clean up the remaining small imperfections with more delicate sponges from 1000 grit up. Which grit ranges are appropriate varies with materials, and sandpaper is measured the same way.
2) A single-edged nipper is only sharp on one of the two blades. Double-edged nipper have both blades sharpened. Single-edged nippers can be desirable because if a double-edged nipper is not made extremely well then the blades won't line up and the plastic has to be torn instead of cut where they should have met. A single edge avoids that problem.
3) Cutting the runner twice, first away from the part and then a second cut to proper size, reduces stress on the plastic. Under stress most plastics will turn white, so if you do nothing to avoid that stress your model will be covered in white spots even in areas that should be other colors. As I understand it, the technique works because plastic molecules form in long chains, so when you cut plastic a far larger portion of the material resists the cut than what your blade contacts. The first cut breaks those chains, and allows for an easier and more precise cut the second time.
Super clean answer my friend, thanks a bunch for your time! Looking at some SD Gunpla right now after Warhammer minis, looking nice. Only missing the 4th question then, probably someday from @EAGunpla ++
Some people use a hobby knife to chip away at the small nubs left over. This can be more dangerous as you can possibly cut yourself, so always cut away from where your hand/fingers are.
Hobby knifes can also be useful for separating the front skirt armor if you want them to move independently from each other. In most cases you can use nippers, but sometimes the part holding them together is thicker which will easily warp the peg. You can sometimes separate the back skirt armor, but they often don’t have the little ball parts so they aren’t very secure.
@@TheSpongyMallard thanks my friend !
I would have loved a video like this when I first started building gunpla. One thing that I would like to add, though, is that you shouldn't sand the poly cap parts. You only have to cut them flush to the part.
Yup! Couldn’t agree more with this! 😁
Video ni aku akan pass kat member2 yg aku nak racun kan selalu cakap tak pandai pasang.. akan bertambahlah manusia rosak mcm kita lepas ni habis duit kat mainan.. jgn rosak sorg rosak bawak org 😂😂
I liké tour back to basics video
Will do more after this!
Do you really Recommend using something to sand out the pieces ?
I'm watching this video just before building my first ever Gunpla (RG Eva 02) and I don't have any sanding sponge/paper at hand
I'll maybe not paint the thing, but i want to know if it's really necessary after you've cut the pieces from the board
Its hard to find the MadWorks sanding sponges in Aus, what would you recommend in alternative brands such as Dspiae or Godhand ( grit and thickness). Thanks
30mm kits are a good place to start, they build like HG kits but take a fraction of the time
Agreed!! And friendly kitbashing too!
@@EAGunpla yeah that's true!, i just remember the main thing that put me off in the beginning was the amount of time it took to build, i got an RG and it took me like 9 hours haha now i can knock one out in half the time if not less
do you have link to the sand sponge that you use?
welcome back from death broo
Is it okay to just using a glass file over the normal sanding paper ?
You can use glass file too if you want. It may leave a gloss finish on the surface. You can leave it just like that or rub it off with sanding sponge
Can you do a custom of Gundam VIdar?
How to build your first kit, follow instructions until completion. Video done 😭 jk I know this will be useful to someone
Ahahah yeahhh 🤣🤣 But this video specifically made for someone who never build a model kits before!
Nice 👍👍
Thanks Ivan!
KEREEEN BOSSq
Was this master grade or high grade?
Where’d you even find a Flauros to build? I’ve been looking for one for ages.
have you tried searching for some on internet?
@@ibuki-chan5654 Yes. It’s out of stock in all the usual places and I’m sure as hell not paying scalper prices.
@@TheSlamburger sad :/
Japan vlog when ea 👀
Belum edit lagiii hahahahaha
What if the beginner doesn't have all of those tools, any alternatives?
These are the very minimum tools needed to get a decent result. If you want to get into this hobby, you have to invest atleast a nipper. You can use nail clipper but it will look bad when assembled.
Nail trimmer and cutter knife. Nail trimmer comes with the file used for the nail which can be an alternative for the sanding files/sponges. The cutter can be a tad tricky but should do the job with the right handling. This of course would work better with the proper beginner stuff for gunpla building, but as someone who couldn't afford those stuff back then, these were all I need lol
And there's also some wire cutting pliers which comes with its own sizes but still convenient to use and are available at hardware or general stores. Bought mine dirt cheap, still using it to this day heh
I'd say the beginner can buy tool kits for a decent price. USA Gundam Store sells the Apex kit for around $24, plus, they can also check their local hobby store for kits. Mine sells the Mr Hobby tool set for $30. Sanding paper, like the Madworks he showed, is like $11 for the bundle he showed. So, I'd say $41-ish is a low cost of entry for the hobby for tools that can last a while before people decide if they want to upgrade and expand.
Mana abang jumpa Flauros ni 😭😭😭😭 saya tercari-cari kit ni. Nk complete koleksi Gundam frame IBO
Lama dahhh beli kit ni dulu, simpan lama dah. Saje pasang utk video kali ni 😁😁
💯👍
Legoooo
join gbwc this year?
Not planning to join gbwc anytime soon 😢
how to build first gunpla? proceed to choose one of the worst lineup in hg gunpla aka IBO 🤢🤮 *no hate to the series, just the hg ibo gunpla itself*
I dont think so they. it just very tricky to bring out the custom build out of them. Like barbatos that ass hat take forever to custom build especially if you have multiple color separation. one of the best MG and a nightmare to custom
@@myhonestopinion3334 if its the worst lineup then it adds more to why it needs a how to build guide, just my opinion though