I'll have to try the cement + sanding technique after scribing to smooth out the lines. On my last kit I rescribed the panel lines with no cement and the panel lines were very rough and uneven. Thank you for all the knowledge in your videos, I'm always learning something new.
the plastic cement is a nice idea but to everyone who tries it .... only do it if the parts are either white or you intend to fully paint anyways ... colored parts can get foggy/decolored even if you are only using a very tiny amount of cement and it will look bad (some colors handle it better than others but still)
Also, for anyone looking for the chisel handle EA used in this video, am almost 100% sure it is the Madworks MH-01 Multi-Function Handle. It can be used for knife blades, scribing hooks/push broaches, and scribing needles too. So it is a useful tool to have if you don't already have a hobby knife, I am sure it can be used with XACTO blades or art knife blades many kitbashers use.
Never knew about the cement trick before will 100% be trying that thanks. Was practicing rescribing lines on the old bandai mass produced eva kit and I think that cement trick will help a lot.
I tried this on my MG build strike, it was INCREDIBLY AMAZING for it to work on my build strike because now it has a better vibe when displaying it having more poses in mind.
Thank you for making a video detailing this! Funny enough, I came to this conclusion and started doing this on my own not long after my first few kits without actually knowing what the name of this technique was. I was sick of my panel lines along edges or indented sections smearing or getting erased when I cleaned them up with a polymer eraser or IPA. I found tutorials on custom scribing but realized I could apply the same concept to existing panel lines and part edges/indents where there wasn't to get the grooves I needed. My panel lining has been like night and day since and worth the extra time investment.
I learn this point through the hard way and many of my previous works have messy panel lines. Many other videos didn't teach this point until i watched video from Madwork. Tedious step and time consuming but totally worth it.
this is the first time I've seen the cement trick for smoothing out the lines! I have SAB chisels and even they can leave uneven scribe lines at times depending on plastic. Thanks for sharing!
Yep, this works great! I just finished my custom Bael, rescribed every line and added a few more. It was well worth it, there is a lot of detail already there!
just learned cement tricks from you, now i relaized i can both make panel lines cleaners and also making sure deep panel lines wouln't seep into the parts and cause black spotts that can't be clean with thinner since the ink was seeped into the parts and cement will close all those spots up leaving them clean!
This may be the most informative video on panel lining I've seen. Question. If someone is only planning on panel lining and weathering do they need to clear coat BEFORE panel lining? I've heard some people say the panel liner can crack the plastic
That depends on the liner you use I think. There are panel liners specifically designed for bare plastic, like the ones in the Gundam Marker line. I've only really heard of plastic cracking in specific situations (THESE specific types of paint react badly with THESE specific types of plastic etc...). I'm pretty sure water-based acrylic paints are safe on top of anything, for example, but don't flow well into recesses and so don't make for great panel liners. Also note that a gloss clear coat can help panel liner flow into the lines neatly, while a matte coat may cause the liner to blossom out in a way that you definitely don't want. It's fairly common to do a gloss coat, panel line, then do a matte coat over everything for a matte finish.
Will sanding all of the scribed lines make the surfaces appear marked when topcoat is put on? I’m always worried about using sandpaper and messing with the finish.
Hi! I don’t top coat before putting the panel line inks. I only top coat at the very final step. But you can gloss coat if you want before putting the panel line inks. 😁
Great video! But I'm afraid of using panel liner; the first time I used it, my piece cracked :S Should I use a top coat before panel liner, or was it just bad luck?
Tamiya panel liner is enamel. For safety, apply a gloss topcoat first. Alternatively, you can use tamiya acrylic paint that has been some thinner or retardant. Acrylic is forgiving since it is water-based. Or just is the good old gundam panel liners and flow-type panel liners.
Hey man really great instructional video. May I know is it only that type of cement to use or can use different types? Because I have the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement version. And how do you scribe with no accidents happen? Normally when I scribe my scriber will accidently goes out of the panel line and scratch the part. I'm using the Dspiae 0.15mm. Is my technic wrong?
you make it look so easy, but every time i try the chisel slips, or i can't get it around a corner without slipping, yet you make it seem so effortless. i have a bunch of madworks chisels just sitting cuz i couldn't figure it out
He does make it look easy, but he also has had tons of practice. I have the same problem with the chisel slipping at certain angles. I would suggest practicing on older kits you don't mind messing up on. I have a "Gunpla graveyard" of older and broken kits I don't want to display anymore and thought about using those for practice
I'm still learning a lot when it comes to scribing, but the best thing that I learned was to not use any pressure when scribing lines. Just let the tool do its job. Make multiple light passes and be patient with it.
seems i gotta source me a 0.2mm chisel, i've been getting by so far mainly by using expensive tamiya cotton swabs that are really hard so they don't press down in the grooves. but i just finished a wing zero custom ver.ka and those wings my god i had a splotch of panel liner ever 5 mm trying to get it to flow. i burned out wile on the final pieces (the main wings) and stickered those up (2 hours...i'm not that fast) prepped em for a clearcoat and noticed 1 of the back's of the wings never got cleaned.... 2 hours and about 20 cotton swabs later it's ready for a clear coat but hot damn i'd rather scribe the whole thing then have to drown it in panel liner and then carefuly clean it up to try and keep the panel lines in there >.> and hope that i got it all and don't end up with black splotches all over the wings >.>
Question. If I re-scribing panel lines and then handbrush with acrylic water-based paint. Then if I use gundam marker flowing ink for panel lining. I should gloss topcoat before panel lining or no?
Wish I could get this clean a result but I always accidentally scratch a line on the panel surface because of my unsteady hands. I wind up with spiderweb panel lines as I dont know how to fix the scratches and the ink just flows into them.😞 I just stoped scribing and learned to clean up the ink better with those sharper tipped cotton buds
Both Tamiya and Mr Hobby plastic cement is okay! So far I have not encounter any problems with it, just use very little amount of cement when doing the process. You really don’t need much
I don’t use it, I just use the fine point pen, but I have read that you don’t want to over do it with the paint and let plenty of air get to it. I believe you can also top coat. You also want to be careful if the inner frame isn’t PS plastic.
At what stage of the process do you panel line when working on a build with a custom paint job? I’m guessing you want to scribe the details, apply paint, and then panel line; but I am concerned about how to clean the panel lines with the lighter fluid without ruining the paint coat 🤔
Usually right after painting, i will do the panel lines. I only topcoat once, the very last process on my builds! 😁 I think the lighter fluid will not affect the lacquer paints.
Most people will tell you to apply a lacquer gloss clear coat after you paint and then panel line. This will protect your paint when you clean the panel lines. You can apply a matte coat once you are finished if you don’t want the glossy look
It will crack the plastic if you apply too much panel line. The enamels will pools up the grooves and takes longer time to dry, and it will crack the plastic (chemical reaction between the plastic and enamel)
Often the rounded off panel lines are just a necessity of the injection molding process, to get an easy mold release. Luckily, re-scribing them with a square chisel and sanding panels back to a sharp corner is not that hard.
I know I'd screw this up SO FAST and the moment I scratched the model wrong ONCE, I'd just jump off the nearest tall building out of sheer misery for destroying the kit.
That’s what I was thinking. Just be more careful. I use a fine point Gundam marker and remove excess with my fingers. Even when there aren’t grooves, you can still keep enough of the ink there if you’re careful.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I'll have to try the cement + sanding technique after scribing to smooth out the lines. On my last kit I rescribed the panel lines with no cement and the panel lines were very rough and uneven. Thank you for all the knowledge in your videos, I'm always learning something new.
Interesting. Now I have a very clear reason to why scribe my kits. Sharp panel lines are gorgeous and beautiful to look at. Thank you for the tip!
the plastic cement is a nice idea but to everyone who tries it .... only do it if the parts are either white or you intend to fully paint anyways ... colored parts can get foggy/decolored even if you are only using a very tiny amount of cement and it will look bad (some colors handle it better than others but still)
Shit i Should've Read Your Comment Before doing it...i put the extra thin cement on the Coloured Parts as well...And I'm very bad at painting.😢
I did this for my MG Turn A's shield and it was VERY worth it, the difference between Scribed and unscribed lines was massive.
Also, for anyone looking for the chisel handle EA used in this video, am almost 100% sure it is the Madworks MH-01 Multi-Function Handle. It can be used for knife blades, scribing hooks/push broaches, and scribing needles too. So it is a useful tool to have if you don't already have a hobby knife, I am sure it can be used with XACTO blades or art knife blades many kitbashers use.
Never knew about the cement trick before will 100% be trying that thanks. Was practicing rescribing lines on the old bandai mass produced eva kit and I think that cement trick will help a lot.
I tried this on my MG build strike, it was INCREDIBLY AMAZING for it to work on my build strike because now it has a better vibe when displaying it having more poses in mind.
This is so satisfying to watch. I will try this technique for my first scribing and panel lining.
Thank you for making a video detailing this! Funny enough, I came to this conclusion and started doing this on my own not long after my first few kits without actually knowing what the name of this technique was. I was sick of my panel lines along edges or indented sections smearing or getting erased when I cleaned them up with a polymer eraser or IPA. I found tutorials on custom scribing but realized I could apply the same concept to existing panel lines and part edges/indents where there wasn't to get the grooves I needed. My panel lining has been like night and day since and worth the extra time investment.
I learn this point through the hard way and many of my previous works have messy panel lines. Many other videos didn't teach this point until i watched video from Madwork. Tedious step and time consuming but totally worth it.
adding the cement is such a good tip
Is this the only exact cement that will work? or will tamiya extra thin cement (the green one) will do just fine?
@@havsss i think the Tamiya extra thin should work as well. Extra thin is the key
What is the exact grit of the sanding sponge used?
@@tobiellucas8765 3:36 1200 or higher i guess (smoother)
I use 1500 and it seems fine@@tobiellucas8765
Your content is always so chill and so helpful. Thanks so much for your work!!!
Thank you sooo muchh!! Glad you really enjoyed my contents!
this is the first time I've seen the cement trick for smoothing out the lines! I have SAB chisels and even they can leave uneven scribe lines at times depending on plastic. Thanks for sharing!
Glad you are back and this video was perfect timing! I was doing the panel lines on RG Wing
Yep, this works great! I just finished my custom Bael, rescribed every line and added a few more. It was well worth it, there is a lot of detail already there!
your videos are so relaxing! background music and the white noise in the background matches really well
So satisfying! Was this done with any clear coat to protect the plastic from cracking?
I painstakingly rescribed the RG Unicorn and after panel lining it and seeing how it pops, it's worth the effort but it took FOREVER
Which parts do you think are the most important?
Amazing free hand scribing!!!!
Excellent video, will definitely be trying out the cement trick!
So useful, thx for sharing bro. I'm looking fwd to seeing your next masterpiece.
I'm glad you found it useful!
Thank you for this video man, it's really helpful for beginners like me
just learned cement tricks from you, now i relaized i can both make panel lines cleaners and also making sure deep panel lines wouln't seep into the parts and cause black spotts that can't be clean with thinner since the ink was seeped into the parts and cement will close all those spots up leaving them clean!
Great work, thank you for the tips.
My only question is how many time do you “cut the line” ?
Terbaik Bosskur 👍🏻💪🏻🥰
didnt expect using the cement thinner
This may be the most informative video on panel lining I've seen. Question. If someone is only planning on panel lining and weathering do they need to clear coat BEFORE panel lining? I've heard some people say the panel liner can crack the plastic
That depends on the liner you use I think. There are panel liners specifically designed for bare plastic, like the ones in the Gundam Marker line.
I've only really heard of plastic cracking in specific situations (THESE specific types of paint react badly with THESE specific types of plastic etc...). I'm pretty sure water-based acrylic paints are safe on top of anything, for example, but don't flow well into recesses and so don't make for great panel liners.
Also note that a gloss clear coat can help panel liner flow into the lines neatly, while a matte coat may cause the liner to blossom out in a way that you definitely don't want. It's fairly common to do a gloss coat, panel line, then do a matte coat over everything for a matte finish.
Awesome 👍👍
I will use it with my next kits
What size scriber would you recommend for PG kits regarding panel line rescribing?
Will sanding all of the scribed lines make the surfaces appear marked when topcoat is put on? I’m always worried about using sandpaper and messing with the finish.
Nice One Brother 🥰
Great video!!!!
Btw can i use extra thin cement instead of the one in the video?
Hi EA! Did you top coat after scribing and before panel lining? Thank you!
Hi! I don’t top coat before putting the panel line inks. I only top coat at the very final step. But you can gloss coat if you want before putting the panel line inks. 😁
@@EAGunpla thank you master!
is there any difference between the quality of the smoothness of the panel line for tamiya and mr hobby cement?
Great video! But I'm afraid of using panel liner; the first time I used it, my piece cracked :S Should I use a top coat before panel liner, or was it just bad luck?
Tamiya panel liner is enamel. For safety, apply a gloss topcoat first. Alternatively, you can use tamiya acrylic paint that has been some thinner or retardant. Acrylic is forgiving since it is water-based. Or just is the good old gundam panel liners and flow-type panel liners.
Can u sand, panel line, then wsd then final coat? Final coat is water based as well as panel liner
Hey man really great instructional video. May I know is it only that type of cement to use or can use different types? Because I have the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement version. And how do you scribe with no accidents happen? Normally when I scribe my scriber will accidently goes out of the panel line and scratch the part. I'm using the Dspiae 0.15mm. Is my technic wrong?
The main lesson to take away for myself is I need to start pannel lining my models
Is the sanding part necessary if you don't plan on painting the kit?
you make it look so easy, but every time i try the chisel slips, or i can't get it around a corner without slipping, yet you make it seem so effortless. i have a bunch of madworks chisels just sitting cuz i couldn't figure it out
He does make it look easy, but he also has had tons of practice. I have the same problem with the chisel slipping at certain angles. I would suggest practicing on older kits you don't mind messing up on. I have a "Gunpla graveyard" of older and broken kits I don't want to display anymore and thought about using those for practice
I'm still learning a lot when it comes to scribing, but the best thing that I learned was to not use any pressure when scribing lines. Just let the tool do its job. Make multiple light passes and be patient with it.
I wonder how many strokes he ran the scriber thru the lines. Looks like around 3-5 times for each line surface.
Well now I need a second scriber for my not at home setup........... Nice Vid EA!!
Thank you so much!
Looks super clean. Sadly I can't get a hold onto flow type panel lining ink. Have to use pen markers 😐
Wow didnt know about the cement trick. Must we use the cement SP? Or can we just use the regular Tamiya Cement (white/orange cap)
Do you apply top coat before panel lining?
What happens if we skip the cement part? Are the results less than smooth?
wow Bael my favorite
Would scribers with sizes of 0.15mm, 0.2mm, 0.3mm be sufficient to begin with? Or do you have any recommendations?
How long do i have to wait for the cement to dry?
id like to use the cement trick next time, but wouldnt it yellow the plastic after a while?
seems i gotta source me a 0.2mm chisel, i've been getting by so far mainly by using expensive tamiya cotton swabs that are really hard so they don't press down in the grooves. but i just finished a wing zero custom ver.ka and those wings my god i had a splotch of panel liner ever 5 mm trying to get it to flow.
i burned out wile on the final pieces (the main wings) and stickered those up (2 hours...i'm not that fast) prepped em for a clearcoat and noticed 1 of the back's of the wings never got cleaned.... 2 hours and about 20 cotton swabs later it's ready for a clear coat but hot damn i'd rather scribe the whole thing then have to drown it in panel liner and then carefuly clean it up to try and keep the panel lines in there >.> and hope that i got it all and don't end up with black splotches all over the wings >.>
Agnika Kaieru and McGillis Fareed are smiling right now
Question.
If I re-scribing panel lines and then handbrush with acrylic water-based paint. Then if I use gundam marker flowing ink for panel lining. I should gloss topcoat before panel lining or no?
If the parts are painted with laquer paint, will the zippo lighter fluid take off the paint?
nope! lighter fluid is pretty close to enamel thinner but dries quicker
Can i put panel line after scribing and cleaning without top coating it?
Wish I could get this clean a result but I always accidentally scratch a line on the panel surface because of my unsteady hands. I wind up with spiderweb panel lines as I dont know how to fix the scratches and the ink just flows into them.😞 I just stoped scribing and learned to clean up the ink better with those sharper tipped cotton buds
All type mr.cement can use after scribing ?
Are there specific plastic cement types to use (and avoid) for this? I would have assumed the cement would fuse the panel lines when applied
Both Tamiya and Mr Hobby plastic cement is okay! So far I have not encounter any problems with it, just use very little amount of cement when doing the process. You really don’t need much
nice tips bang
Can i Use Mr Cement S instead? Cant find SP here
How did you use enamel panel liner on bare plastic without it cracking the parts?
I don’t use it, I just use the fine point pen, but I have read that you don’t want to over do it with the paint and let plenty of air get to it. I believe you can also top coat. You also want to be careful if the inner frame isn’t PS plastic.
NO DON’T LIGHT THAT BONG IN MY GUNPLA RO- 💥
You don’t clean your parts with water at all before painting?
Nope! I just brush it off with makeup brush 😁
How can someone know what chisel mm your supposed to use? Especially on different scale gundams
did you watch the video? he said it. 0.15mm for 1/144 and 0.2mm for 1/100
Can the cement method apply to the already pained piece?
Cannot, it will ruined the paint.
Does Tamiya Extra Thin Cement work the same for this trick?
Yes!! 😁
So what you’re saying is that next time I move I should leave behind my old kits and buy them again to re-panel line them
Yes, you need to start over now.
Is Mr Hobby SP Cement same as Tamiya Extra Thin Cement?
Basically yes.
At what stage of the process do you panel line when working on a build with a custom paint job?
I’m guessing you want to scribe the details, apply paint, and then panel line; but I am concerned about how to clean the panel lines with the lighter fluid without ruining the paint coat 🤔
Usually right after painting, i will do the panel lines. I only topcoat once, the very last process on my builds! 😁
I think the lighter fluid will not affect the lacquer paints.
Most people will tell you to apply a lacquer gloss clear coat after you paint and then panel line. This will protect your paint when you clean the panel lines. You can apply a matte coat once you are finished if you don’t want the glossy look
我第一次知道可以用打火機油來擦線，學到新知識
Some people have said that their gunpla kits snapped using that panel liner. Does that happen to you?
It will crack the plastic if you apply too much panel line. The enamels will pools up the grooves and takes longer time to dry, and it will crack the plastic (chemical reaction between the plastic and enamel)
How many passes should i make per line?
It all depends on how hard you press the chisel and the sharpness of the chisel. Maybe more than 7-8 passes with light press?
Often the rounded off panel lines are just a necessity of the injection molding process, to get an easy mold release.
Luckily, re-scribing them with a square chisel and sanding panels back to a sharp corner is not that hard.
Is that legs came from fm bael???
It’s from HG Bael 😁😁
I know I'd screw this up SO FAST and the moment I scratched the model wrong ONCE, I'd just jump off the nearest tall building out of sheer misery for destroying the kit.
이렇게까진 못하겠다..
I wonder how much better the original would have looked if you were careful in removing the excess? Not really a fair comparison as-is...
That’s what I was thinking. Just be more careful. I use a fine point Gundam marker and remove excess with my fingers. Even when there aren’t grooves, you can still keep enough of the ink there if you’re careful.
man, I wish the thighs of the gundam frames were longer. It's weird to pose with short thighs
😭 freehand scribing takes skills.
Chisel for MG kit can i use 0.2m ?