Using 1/144 decals on a 1/100 kit to make it look bigger is genius! I’m definitely going to use that, along with the shading techniques, on my future builds. Bravo!
You are the only person I’ve seen do shading this way, every other time I watched a tutorial the creator was adding dark areas to light primer. This didn’t work for me at all so I figured out the way you do it by myself. It’s nice to see someone with much more talent than me doing shading the same way as me
I believe this technique is called “preshading.” My understanding is that it tends to work best for creating a darker, and more shadowy aesthetic. Some people swear by it, while others prefer to do shading and highlighting after.
This method is much better, preshading is kind of lazy honestly IMO, I've seen plenty of builders who just do the same thick black line on every edge and panel line, every build and it just looks horrible on some colors, especially red. This method has more control, lets you explore pairing colors and blending them smoothly.
The fact that you understand color so well! I agree, just using black as the shader creates this harsh transition color that is very offputting in a lot of builds. You're using colors that work with the final color, instead of against it.
im sat here staring at my narrative, trying to decide if i wanna try this. not doubting the method, doubting my ability to successfully pull this off hahaha. thanks for the video tho, this puts me one step closer to either ruining my kit, or making it the best it's ever been!
Amazing craftsmanship as always, my friend! Thank you for giving us this spectacular tutorial; I've been meaning to buckle down and learn how to do this technique.
Yeah I’m really curious about that too. My experience is even a small amount of enamel directly on the plastic without some coating in between will corrode it and result in cracking?
@@robotoyworldit only cracks plastic when it’s able to pool in between parts. If you panel line on the runner, when the parts are unassembled, or carefully when assembled you’re fine w/o a topcoat
would love to see a video on the other smaller parts and details you painted. i have narrative sitting in the box as im going to try and emulate your build here. but im scared im gonna mess up the details.
Definitely my favorite modeling youtuber ♡ I'm also trying to customize my own gunpla :) P.S. Can you tell me the brand of your nipper? I want to buy it too
Unfortunately some of the psychoframe doesn’t have texture on both sides so you lose some detail painting it solid. I don’t know if it’s possible, but I would’ve tried flipping the shield psychoframe so the details are now on the top. Can’t do much about the back ankle parts, but at least they have a little bit of detail with the flat top
great work! Could someone tell me why you would do shading on a 3D object like this? isn't the shading already made by whatever you light it with? I can understand why you'd do weathering, but general shading seems like you'd have a realistic look by using spotlights etc.
That's amazing! Do you use multiple airbrushes both with different colors inside? Or do you keep switching the light grey and the purple in the same airbrush?
Wow, it looks great. 2 questions: 1. Why panel line if you are going to paint over? and 2. Was that Acrylic paint or enamel? I started painting with acrylic and the paint just looks like crap.lol obviou noob here :)
now this one is superb, and speaking of which, what other kits will you use in the next back to basics episode? i've been waiting for that for quite some time now, hahaha, i'm just asking out of curiosity though, but i still do wanna know what else will you be making in the future
When you mean 'mist coat' do you mean putting on a gloss clear coat over each layer/step you take? Also how long do you wait to dry between each layer?
So do you recommend to build first then take apart to paint or just paint before building? Or is there really no right or wrong way of doing it? Sorry for the questions, trying to get into airbrushing gundams.
Hello EA, just wanted to ask what panel liner ink are you using? Since I've been recently hesitant to use my Tamiya Black due to it giving cracks on my last RG, kinda having PTSD with my recent MG's. Kinda tedious to clear coat every part and do a panel line after, then top coat for final. Really don't have the space + painting booth to do clear coat sesh and let it dry out. Trying to find alternative inks that aren't gonna eat the plastics out.
Ok real talk, do you ever scratch the paint off by accident when you are posing the kit afterwards? I’ve painted models, applied top coat (too much sometimes) and there’s always bound to be a little scratch here and there after posing.
Can someone explain why he panel lined bare plastic before adding surfacer? Not only is that risky as it can break plastic but also it got completely covered by the purple basecoat didn't it?
I use charcoal 😅 first is I apply matte top coat to the parts then let it dry, then I take a powdered charcoal then use a make up brush and apply it to the corners and parts where I want a dark shaded area. The lastly I apply another layer of top coat, it's up to you if you wanna use the flat or gloss coat. But yeah that's how I do mine.
I prefer the shading painting method rather than solid painting method. It makes gunpla look more realistic. Unfortunately, it's rare now to see gunpla builders using this technique.
btw, i have some question. i do the paint. with airbrush. but sometime a little bump with other part chipped the paint. wht should i do? is it because i prime it too thin? or the paint are too thin?
It sounds like either the paint hasn’t cured fully, or too much force was applied. Make sure to wait at least 12 to 24 hours before reassembly, to guarantee that any deeper paint is fully cured and adhered. It could also be a lack of primer or surfacer. It helps to sand the part lightly with a relatively high grit. This will create a surface for the paints or primers to cling to. Many people prefer to do a “tacky coat” for their first coat for the same reason.
Leave the paint cured couple of days before plawing with it. But paint scratches will happen if you move the kit too much after paint. Usually after paint and photoshoot session, i never play with the kit anymore. Put it in the shelf and display it
Probably for the color to be maintained. The panel lining will still show through, especially on airbrushing, since the coat layers are so thin. They probably went back and redid the panel accent a second time at the end.
Using 1/144 decals on a 1/100 kit to make it look bigger is genius! I’m definitely going to use that, along with the shading techniques, on my future builds. Bravo!
Right, I never even gave that a thought
You are the only person I’ve seen do shading this way, every other time I watched a tutorial the creator was adding dark areas to light primer. This didn’t work for me at all so I figured out the way you do it by myself. It’s nice to see someone with much more talent than me doing shading the same way as me
I believe this technique is called “preshading.” My understanding is that it tends to work best for creating a darker, and more shadowy aesthetic. Some people swear by it, while others prefer to do shading and highlighting after.
Pre shading and post shading is pretty much just preference. I prime, shade edges, highlight. Post shading scares me. It's less forgiving.
This method is much better, preshading is kind of lazy honestly IMO, I've seen plenty of builders who just do the same thick black line on every edge and panel line, every build and it just looks horrible on some colors, especially red. This method has more control, lets you explore pairing colors and blending them smoothly.
Man I miss building so much, sort of live it vicariously through your channel
Always love you videos man, the back to basics series is great!
The fact that you understand color so well!
I agree, just using black as the shader creates this harsh transition color that is very offputting in a lot of builds.
You're using colors that work with the final color, instead of against it.
Already got yours painted and assembled, and mine isn’t even here yet, incredible work as always!
Hopefully it will arrive to you soon and safely!! Enjoy the kit bro, it was a superb kit!
I just got one delivered to me today. This video actually inspired me to finally get an airbrush. Up till now I’ve been painting the old school way.
im sat here staring at my narrative, trying to decide if i wanna try this. not doubting the method, doubting my ability to successfully pull this off hahaha. thanks for the video tho, this puts me one step closer to either ruining my kit, or making it the best it's ever been!
Dude, you are a wizard! It's incredibly beautiful.
Still in awe is the job well done here, the thumbnail seriously didn’t do the finished product justice with the vibrant purple hue for shading
Beautiful! You made it look like the Katoki box art with that purple shades.
Perfect timing, my water curtain spray box is arriving tomorrow and I’m learning how to airbrush
Oh my god! Finally! I have been waiting for another video from you.. and as expected worth the wait..
Amazing work! You have easily become one of my favourite Gunpla modellers
Thanks for your kind words!! I really appreciate it! 🙇🏻♂️🙇🏻♂️
The metallic part looks really nice! I might steal this technique!
MG kits are so easy to work on. They are truly the easiest of gunpla kits.
Amazing craftsmanship as always, my friend! Thank you for giving us this spectacular tutorial; I've been meaning to buckle down and learn how to do this technique.
I'm a little confused, you panel lined BEFORE you painted the kit - how was it not covered? Awesome vid! Thanks.
Yeah I’m really curious about that too. My experience is even a small amount of enamel directly on the plastic without some coating in between will corrode it and result in cracking?
@@robotoyworldit only cracks plastic when it’s able to pool in between parts. If you panel line on the runner, when the parts are unassembled, or carefully when assembled you’re fine w/o a topcoat
I never shade with black and usually use blue or grey. I like the idea of using purple.
Black can be too heavy to blend out.
Glorious. Absolutely beautiful work!
You scribing in the panel lines freehand is incredibly impressive
One of my fav modeller. As always worth the wait. Cant wait to have my own spray to learn it
Saved this vid for future reference! Your finished build looks hella awesome!
I just did the same thing...lol
@@MPBones11 One day brotha, we will have our own kick-ass builds!
I just knew that HG decal could works on MG . Thanks for the info !
You make it look so easy! But I doubt I could get to those results. It looks absolutely fantastic.
It's really beautiful.
As your longtime subscriber, you get new inspiration for your new Gunfra.
congrats on 200k !
Thank you so much!!
Wow, just wow! Do Providence MG in the future this kind of treatment as well please ❤
I enjoy watching Gunpla built and painted to a high standard!
would love to see a video on the other smaller parts and details you painted. i have narrative sitting in the box as im going to try and emulate your build here. but im scared im gonna mess up the details.
man this is so good, you give me hope that I can do it one day lol
thanks for the idea on using purple! i used black but they kinda look a bit off will redo some kits with purple
Always making these beautiful works look easy is a talent haha
No coating before panel lining?
I see some people recommend a clear coat before it.
Definitely my favorite modeling youtuber ♡
I'm also trying to customize my own gunpla :)
P.S. Can you tell me the brand of your nipper? I want to buy it too
Super nice work!! Can you share which blue did you use for the backpack?
Paint job is amazing! How do you avoid scraping off the paint when assembling back together?
Unfortunately some of the psychoframe doesn’t have texture on both sides so you lose some detail painting it solid. I don’t know if it’s possible, but I would’ve tried flipping the shield psychoframe so the details are now on the top. Can’t do much about the back ankle parts, but at least they have a little bit of detail with the flat top
1:00 the cut just so damn clean 🤤
Great work. Looks so good in red.
great work!
Could someone tell me why you would do shading on a 3D object like this? isn't the shading already made by whatever you light it with?
I can understand why you'd do weathering, but general shading seems like you'd have a realistic look by using spotlights etc.
If you weren’t going to use purple, what other colors would you use as base coat for white top coat? Loved the video, thank you so much!
beautiful shadinglove the video.
thank you for sharing your techniques. I learned so much!
Beautiful work! May I check what paint did you use for panel lining? I’m still using Gundam markers atm 😅
beautiful work as always! May I ask how do you mist coating on your airbrush, thanks in advance.
What would be the best way to recreate your top coat mix? I don't have an airbrush, just the mr hobby cans.
hi kawan I notice u always use TPLA for panel lining did u have any problems with sudden brittleness of the plastic by chance?
amazing :) the mechanical surfacer acts as a primer for the inner frame?
That's amazing! Do you use multiple airbrushes both with different colors inside? Or do you keep switching the light grey and the purple in the same airbrush?
Wow, it looks great. 2 questions: 1. Why panel line if you are going to paint over? and 2. Was that Acrylic paint or enamel? I started painting with acrylic and the paint just looks like crap.lol obviou noob here :)
Love how it turned! Amazing video as usual! Question what do you use for your matte and gloss coat? And you do spray those at lighter psi?
I mix mr hobby gx100 and gx114, and spray them normally like i do for colours 😁
now this one is superb, and speaking of which, what other kits will you use in the next back to basics episode? i've been waiting for that for quite some time now, hahaha, i'm just asking out of curiosity though, but i still do wanna know what else will you be making in the future
Color of the psycho frame is cool!! 👍
Thanks bro!!
But why panel line before painting?
To test how smooth the grooves are after the fact
I feel panel lining before painting creates a shading effect
I can’t wait until I’m brave enough to attempt this
That's beautiful! 🤩
When you mean 'mist coat' do you mean putting on a gloss clear coat over each layer/step you take? Also how long do you wait to dry between each layer?
So do you recommend to build first then take apart to paint or just paint before building? Or is there really no right or wrong way of doing it? Sorry for the questions, trying to get into airbrushing gundams.
Stunning work
i do the same for my painted gunpla and resin. i love it. i re learn from wathing tis. thx so much
Looks stunning ❤️
Hello EA, just wanted to ask what panel liner ink are you using? Since I've been recently hesitant to use my Tamiya Black due to it giving cracks on my last RG, kinda having PTSD with my recent MG's. Kinda tedious to clear coat every part and do a panel line after, then top coat for final. Really don't have the space + painting booth to do clear coat sesh and let it dry out. Trying to find alternative inks that aren't gonna eat the plastics out.
I’ve had a similar issue with tamiya. I was using it on bare plastic when I did that though. I’ll bet a surfacer can help prevent that though.
Phenomenal work.
Ok real talk, do you ever scratch the paint off by accident when you are posing the kit afterwards? I’ve painted models, applied top coat (too much sometimes) and there’s always bound to be a little scratch here and there after posing.
Can you do Master Grade Perfect Zeong?
That is underated kit of all time and Bigger than Perfect Grade.
May i ask why purple? It looks good. I just want to know why. Is it because of the box art?
Can someone explain why he panel lined bare plastic before adding surfacer? Not only is that risky as it can break plastic but also it got completely covered by the purple basecoat didn't it?
I'm waiting for the A-Packs Sled to go with this Ver.Ka, scale is going to be off the wall.
May I know when you do the highlights spray , what is the PSI do you use ?
good to see a new upload
Oh wow, I didn't realise 1/144 decals would indeed look better on a 1/100 - thanks for the tip!
Do u think 1/100 decals would be good on a 1/60?
So we should panel line before and after paint?
紫でグラデーションするとはかっこいい❤参考にします🥹
terbaiklah mantap 👍👍🔥🔥
Masuk Madworks museum 🎉
do you use black or gray for panel lining?
welcome back broo
bro stunning af
Is there another way of doing this without airbrushing? Sadly I live in an apartment where I am not allowed to airbush
I use charcoal 😅 first is I apply matte top coat to the parts then let it dry, then I take a powdered charcoal then use a make up brush and apply it to the corners and parts where I want a dark shaded area. The lastly I apply another layer of top coat, it's up to you if you wanna use the flat or gloss coat. But yeah that's how I do mine.
@@jojenarttv8850 cool! thanks for the tip mate!
how do you keep your joints buttery smooth despite painting them over??? O.o
I prefer the shading painting method rather than solid painting method. It makes gunpla look more realistic. Unfortunately, it's rare now to see gunpla builders using this technique.
What method is this?
Do you base coat before panel lining?
do you wear respirator when using mr mark setter?
will u wear marks when u are painting
What AB dix u use for the shading. Is it the procon 0.2mm
very nice effect, i will steal your trick with purple for my rg FA unicorn i guess :D
wow its like it casts shadows on itself
At minute 7:07, what do you mean by "clear purple" bro?
How to make it?
btw, i have some question. i do the paint. with airbrush. but sometime a little bump with other part chipped the paint. wht should i do?
is it because i prime it too thin? or the paint are too thin?
It sounds like either the paint hasn’t cured fully, or too much force was applied. Make sure to wait at least 12 to 24 hours before reassembly, to guarantee that any deeper paint is fully cured and adhered. It could also be a lack of primer or surfacer.
It helps to sand the part lightly with a relatively high grit. This will create a surface for the paints or primers to cling to. Many people prefer to do a “tacky coat” for their first coat for the same reason.
Can you give me a tips what to do to prefent paint scratched?
Leave the paint cured couple of days before plawing with it. But paint scratches will happen if you move the kit too much after paint.
Usually after paint and photoshoot session, i never play with the kit anymore. Put it in the shelf and display it
@@EAGunpla all right, thank you so much for the tips 🔥🔥🔥🤘🤘🤘👍👍👍
What number of the blade you use to sculpt out the panel line? 🥺
OH 0.15 !!
so beautiful!
Noob here. What is the reason for scribing over the panel line? Thanks!
Makes the lines deeper, letting the panel line liquid flow better
Thank you for the explaination my friend! 🙇🏻♂️
DAMNNNNNN!!!!! keep up the good work!
Thank you soo muchhh!!! Will do my best! 💪🏻
Whats the tool you used to line the gundam?
what shade should i use for blue parts? eg exia.
do you topcoat your kits before panel lining?
why did he panel line first then paint over it?
Probably for the color to be maintained. The panel lining will still show through, especially on airbrushing, since the coat layers are so thin. They probably went back and redid the panel accent a second time at the end.
What ratio do you use for the thinner?
why do you not use gloves when airbrushing?
It's a real man's hands we real mens doesn't need gloves
Cool people don’t need gloves
join gbwc this year?