How to read your ammo, (pressure signs)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
- Link to Store: 4aw-store.myshopify.com
Our Paypal email: marksworkshop@westnet.com.au
Looking for one of our videos, check the new index section on our website: 4aw.com.au
if your looking for our Adjustable Bag bases go to this BASES link
4aw-store.myshopify.com/colle...
and if you looking for our Muzzle brakes, go to this link
4aw-store.myshopify.com/colle...
Channel Rules:
Here on 4AW we try to answer/acknowledge/thank all the comments, thank you.
That said, not all are equal, Supporters (financial) and Customers get preferential treatment, go figure!
Supporters/Customers: we try to answer all questions that are applicable to videos and will even offer links to help answer questions if appropriate to the channel
We would still ask you do as much searching on the channel as you can as our time is limited.
If you are a customer that uses a different name then let us know so we can make sure your comments are treated appropriately.
Other Commenters: once again we try to answer all questions that are applicable to videos, but we do not offer extra info or links.
If questions are not related to the video, your comment may not be answered or may be removed.
We would ask you do as much searching on the channel as you can as our time is limited.
Any rude or inappropriate comments will be removed or banned
If you have been banned (your comments don't slow up) and you feel unfairly, email us and we will review, Cheers
As somebody who’s only been handloading for a short time I greatly appreciate this info. This is an extremely valuable reference.
Cheers
Mark this video should be watched by every beginner or novice reloader. Easily understood and thoroughly explained.
Excellent content!
Keep'em coming!
Thanks Man, Cheers
Another awesome video, after shooting for 50 years and reloading on and off for over 40 years Mark articulates things that I kind of knew but had never put words to. Many thanks, wonderful content.
Thanks Man, Cheers
This is one of the better videos that I’ve seen on the subject, keep up the good work brother
Thanks Man, Cheers
Good info Mark, thanks for taking the time to make these informative videos.
I hope others will see the value and help support your efforts.
Thank you John, glad you like them, Cheers
Thanks Mark. You are a great ambassador and teacher. I enjoy your videos a ton.
Thank you Rob
Thanks Mark. I appreciate your share your knowledge and experience.
Thanks Dave, Cheers
A great refresher for experienced hand loaders and a must-see for the beginner. Everyone should have the utmost respect for pressure!
Cheers
Your tips in the videos are very detailed and instructive! Thanks for the info!
thanks Mickey
A great video. Thank you for being very clear in what you were describing. It sure made things clearer for me!
Awesome, Cheers
Had to comeback and revisit this one. Great content as always my friend. Thanks for leaving it in its original form.
Cheers Otis
Thank you, I did after 43 years of handloading learn somethings from your video.
Thanks Joe, Cheers
Very good information Mark. Thanks for explaining that bolt lift is potentially the first sign of excessive pressure.
Cheers J
Thank you for sharing your experience. Pure gold for me.
Cheers Mna, thanks
The best video I have found on pressure signs in reloading!
Thanks Will
Nice, straightforward, simple English explanation that you don't need an encyclopedia or glossary to understand. Welcoming to beginners and convincing that internal ballistics and handloading is not restricted to some egghead priesthood, but that a reasonably diligent and observant mere mortal can do it and be safe. I applaud your efforts to translate the "Church Latin" arcana of the reloading world into accessible information like this. Great job.
Thank you sir, Cheers
I'm new at this and as always, If you know what you're talking about, you can explain it in simple terms. Mark does just that. I love this channel.
cheers man
Well done, thank you both. Best info vid on pressure signs I've seen.
Thanks Hank, Cheers
Well Said man, this is great info for those who are unsure or new to reloading!!
Cheers
This advice is especially important for load development without using a crony. Lots of people in my neck of the woods rely to much on computer generated (kwikload etc) data. I recently started load development with new powder and bullet. Got my min/max load from the manufacturer and put all the dope into kwikload. Half way though the min/max I could not open the bolt. (Velocity were still way down) Check every possible option for the problem and could not find any. Went to a ballistician and he had a look at all my data and determined that the info I got from the manufacturer were computer generated but never tested.
Thanks Man, and yes need to verify with more than one source as a rule, Cheers
Chrony is a must. If someone's handloading and already invested in it, another $100 spent on a chrony shouldn't break the bank.
@@joshuagibson2520 Sounds like good advice.
I have a CHRONY.
However, this is STILL good information for those who do have one.
And YES...if you hot-rod your reloads, it WILL also make the brass STRETCH faster. Overly long cases beyond SAAMI specs can be VERY DANGEROUS to reuse. They MUST be trimmed once they near maximum length.
@@markandsamafterwork Subscribed (reloader).
Very insightful. I have a Remington 700 in 7mmRemMag I have struggled with extraction issues since day 1...used only factory loads. Had issues with brass sticking after 3 rounds regardless of brand of ammo. Now I have something else to look at. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Cheers
Thanks Tim, glad you liked.
Very nicely explained!
All handloaders need to know how to read these signs and interpret the information the info the cases tell.
Thanks Skip
Thank you for sharing instructional videos. I respect what you do very much
Cheers Steve, thanks
Thanks for the great info Mark. I'm heading up the range tomorrow to test some reloads a lot wiser thanks to this video. Cheers
Cheers Spiney, thanks
Using factory .308 Wolf steel cased rounds appeared to create pressure issues including difficult bolt lift and two cases of split rims. No issues with different brands of factory ammunition. Thank you for a great video.
Thanks Colin, Cheers
Thanks Mark
Great video Mate, very well presented , Steve .
Thanks Steve, Cheers
👍 thanks Mark.
Came back to this one for a second viewing. Going to the range this evening to find my safe max load for a new rifle, hopefully it will group acceptably at that point.
Awesome, cheers
Thank you for the valuable information.
Thank you
Great info and explanations, thank you kindly for sharing this to us out here :)
Thanks Oddur, glad you liked, Cheers
Another great video with really good info as always keepem coming!!!
Thanks Dan
Another timely utterly informative video - with clear and easy to understand examples. Thank you. Like most, in the process of finding loads during reloading - powder nodes at the moment vs stable velocities / ES etc... bit concerning is the compressed loads ADI powder asks for giving good results ( Looking at you .223 Rem and ADI 2208) - a little flattening but not excessive.
On a side note with regard to brass metallurgy - having built a home made induction annealer - its astounding in the different timings that the same calibre brass requires, vs differing manufacturers of centrefire brass. Brass is not brass!
Finding it hard to find metal makeups vs differing manufacturers. I read a forum made a few years back where spectrometry was used to determine the values of each metal used in brass cases. I learnt there is a tiny %age of lead in brass too.
Thanks Man, Cheers
Thank you, I am new to reloading and this is precious information👍
Cheers
Well done. All the signs to look for.
Thanks Clay
Watched my brass for a long time great advice.
Thanks Wayne
Great video man thank you.
Thanks Dave
Great information, thanks for the effort. Just ordered a shirt from you guys. Cheers!
Thank you Michael, Cheers
Old Schoolers use to measure the web just in front of the rim using a 0.0001” micrometer. They used a veneer caliper looking for 0.00005” of an increase in diameter. This is spoken one half ten thousands.
Cheers
As always great job 👍🔥💯
Thank you, Cheers
Worse case I had was with factory ammo, hard lift extraction and split brass. Shot 3 rounds, all did same so pulled bullets, dumped powder and reloaded safer rounds. Great video sir.
Thanks Doug, glad you liked
Fantastic work guy’s!
Cheers man, thanks
Very timely info, I recently fired some factory Oz Outback 165g Gameking 308 ammo in my Ruger Scout and all 5 rounds had issues with 1. Tight Bolt lift, 2. Very flattened primers and 3. Ejector marks on case heads. These rounds all felt and sounded harder than the Federal I usually shoot and I wasn't prepared to shoot any more of these. After watching your presentation I am of conclusion that there is something amiss with this box of ammo and will err on side of caution and not shoot it again in this rifle. Thanks again & Cheers
Thanks Man, and yes good plan, Cheers
Bought one in 300 Blackout while knowing of a common problem. Ruger uses a looser chamber on these. I had a couple of misfires in a box of 20 Federals. The case shoulders aren't supported in the chamber. The fix is to have the barrel set back. If you reload properly - no probs. Dunno about the 308...
Good luck mate. NSW
Excellent information ! 👍
Cheers Jerry
Great video, very informative.
Glad you liked. Thanks Warren. Cheers
Your component remark is right on the mark with some chambers. I have one rifle that is extremely sensitive to brass choice. No other signs of pressure except difficult extraction on some brass. After weighing different brands of brass and measuring before and after firing, I found one brand that worked without any issues. Be it different alloy that rebounded back after pressure or I found that brand of brass by in large weighed less than more troublesome brands. To me meaning alloy and amount of metal actually in the case. A simple change to a different brand of brass completely solved the issue.
Thank you for what you do.
Cheers Man, thanks
@@markandsamafterwork Some manufacturers may actually make their brass THICKER ON THE INSIDE than others.
If this is the case, internal capacity will be slightly reduced. This will of course, mean increased pressure.
Thanks, Great information
Thanks Man, Cheers
Great video for beginners🤙
Cheers Man, thanks
New to reloading fantastic video like them all fantastic guys thanks
Cheers Man, thanks
Great Video ! thank You !!
Thanks Thomam, Cheers
The worst stamping I ever had on a piece of brass was after a barrel replacement for a 22-250. Primer didn't show much over pressure sign, just brass stamping really. Turns out the chamber had been over polished and case wasn't gripping well on the sides. A local gunsmith explained to me what was going on and fixed it.
Thanks Duggy, Cheers
Lite hone
You don't want an oily chamber either
Great info. Thanks
Cheers
Great video, thanks for sharing
Cheers
Great content thanks for sharing
Cheers John
Very good information!
cheers
Thanks Mark
Cheers
Rob
Thanks Rob
Very good informations. Thanks.
Thanks Walter, Cheers
I bet you check sparkplugs in the same manner, as you said it's not one size fits all. Very informative video...... Thanks for all you do
Cheers Thanks Paul
Excellent info
Thanks Otis, glad you liked, Cheers
Thank you very great informative video. I learn my lesson thank you for sharing.
Cheers
Great info.!
Thanks Russ
Thanks always work you work loads up slowly........................................................
Cheers
Thanks Mate !
Cheers
Well done 👍
Cheers
Great intro to reading brass
thanks Rob
Thanks
Cheers
Good work
Cheers
thanks
Cheers
great vid. been awhile since ive reloaded, but ive collected most of the tools once again and expect to reload next year. i keep buying loaded ammo when i find it available. itll give me that much more brass... well, thats my justification! but i enjoyed loading years ago and i look forward to it again.
Awesome, Cheers
Excellent video! I'd like to add a note to the theme of excessive pressure signs. At times these signs (cratering of the primer, difficult extraction, etc.) may appear even though the load is well-balanced and should not generate excessive pressure. When the round goes off, the case expands and adheres to the chamber walls, reducing the backward impact on bolt face, ejector plunger, firing pin hole, etc. Almost immediately the brass contracts again, and ejection is normal. However, if the sizing lube has not been removed completely from the reloaded brass, the case does not adhere strongly to the chamber walls and slams violently against the bolt face, producing false signs of excessive pressure. It happened to me once when I fired a few .30-'06 rounds that I had reloaded. It was a very moderate load, and all the components were the same as those I had used before: same primers, same powder of the same lot, same powder charge, same bullets, same everything. Yet the bolt was hard to lift, the cases were hard to extract, and the primers were cratered. The rifle was a Remington 700, with a plunger extractor, and the circular mark where the brass had flowed into the plunger hole was well visible. Before this batch that gave these signs of excessive pressure nothing untoward had ever happened with that load. The problem was not an excessive powder charge;, the problem was that I had forgotten to remove the sizing lube from the cases. After I did wipe them scrupolously clean, the remaining shells functioned perfectly. I do not recall ever reading anywhere about this sort of problem, so I thought I'd share my experience with you all. Make sure that no trace of resizing lube remains on the cases!
I would like to add one thing: if one relies on signs of excessive pressure when reloading for a lever-acrion rifle, planning to reduce the dose of powder as soon as such signs appear, one may risk to damage one's rifle, as cases fired in lever-action rifles may fail to show signs of excessive pressure before it's too late and damage may have already occurred. I read this in a reloading magazine, so I cannot claim to have had any personal experience with excessive pressure in lever action rifles, and not everything you read in a gun magazine is Gospel...
Cheers
serious info on this channel. if you want real info on the topics seldom discussed, this is the place to be.
Thanks man, Cheers
Thanks for the sharing and enjoyed it,I was subscribed but then not, trying again.
Awesome, Cheers
I just did a ladder with 308win using varget in a remington 700
From the bottom of the ladder up to the top, i got cratering and extrator marks (couldn't hook my nail on it)
No stuck bolt
No heavy lift
Velocity was on track (25 fps faster than book with 1 inches longer barrel
Got a little worried so i started looking up videos
I will say the SD and ESs were fantastic single digit sds and es in the teens
Awesome, Cheers
I have reloaded for 58 years. Do not assume that all published load data is safe for your particular weapon, especially max loads. I bought a new Henry Steel, .360 Buckhammer. I used Hornady load data, Accurate 1680 powder, 180 gr Speer bullets, WW cases, and CCI primers. I started 1 grain under max load. I had sticky extraction and flattened primers. PRESSURE! I ended 2 grains under max and the load was very accurate, no flattened primers, and smooth extraction.
Thanks Ralph
I like your work. Since you were reading brass. I thought you could mention dangers of case separation do to over sizing or pushing the shoulder back (excessive head space). Seeing a light color brass ring above base webbing. This being case stretch and weakening. In that case discards the case.
We have videos to discuss that, what to look for and things where you are likely to get that result, Cheers
Interesting you mention Lapua brass with the 338 LM. I have found that exact thing with brass from about 2 years ago. Older brass was fine.
Same here, changing to Peterson for some testing soon, Cheers
@@markandsamafterwork I have my Peterson brass, but I’m in the process of rebarreling to 33XC. I found this exact same issue with 300 Norma mag lapua brass this year, Peterson in that rifle is holding up much better.
might have saved my rifle; i was having failure to extract issues with my remington 700. would have to knock the back after every shot. i took some of thr casings home and watch this video. something is def off with the pressure. ty
Cheers Gabriel, thanks
New to the channel, enjoying your work!
Curious where you are, New Zealand I'm guessing? Just guessing at your accent... Is there an about us video I can check out? Sorry for all the questions, I noticed you tend to respond to comments so figured I'd give it a shot 🤠
Australia, and yes lots of videos, try the search feature on the channel to find videos, Cheers
There's only one area I've found this to not be true. That's the AR-10/LR-308 platform. Man, when those things are over-gassed it will knock out primers, make extractor marks, and blacken the entire case. For bolt action, when I can taste brass shavings, I back her down a 1/10 grain...sometimes 1/5 grain, that's 2/10 for you Northern states folks. :)
Great presentation and discussion Mark!! I often read about pressure signs, but if you haven't seen it or seen how it can mess up your brass and gun it's difficult to get a good idea of what is just soft alloy vs actual pressure signs.
Cheers
good info,
I'm working up 6.5 SE with 100gr pills .
i have M70 zastava SS . I have left the reloading manuals behind and have just hit the spot at 3200fps where I'm planning to stop . I have no pressure signs at all and feel like I'm playing blind mans bluff at times. getting information like your vid has been hard to come by. thank you for your help
Thanks Paul, Cheers
Very well put. I have also found what works and looks good on one brass might not on a different brand of brass with the same load. Each brand of brass needs it's own load development.
Cheers Tyler
Sometimes a poorly made rifle bolt can give a ring around the firing pin at the prime making it look like excessive pressure. But when that is the case it can do it even at low pressures. Just something to watch for.
cheers
Another sign that I have noticed is expansion of the web. Measure the diameter of the case inside the extractor groove... a few thousandths of growth in the diameter is a definite sign of pressure.
Cheers
Great information, thanks.
Do you think that excessive neck tension might contribute to over-pressure?
Pressure is always about everything, neck tension can contribute a little, but we are discussing reading, not causes, Cheers
I think you are right about pressure spikes causing inconsistent shot to shot reliability when case pressure is too high. I too will load sets of ammunition(10 rounds) when dealing with different powder or bullets, print groups on paper, scan the paper and digitally mark each shot from the different groups, then put all the coordinates into a spreadsheet for analysis. A repeat observation has been that vertical deviation tightens at a consistent rate as powder charge increases from too low then the deviation grows at a different and more exaggerated rate once powder charge is edging towards higher than ideal pressures. These are my observations from dialing in loadings for only a few different bullets for different rifle cartridges using different powders. Certainly not enough data for some kind of certainty, but the observations have repeated every time so far.
Glad you liked, Cheers
Awesome video Mark! I have an interesting pressure sign that I'm trying to decipher on factory ammunition (Federal 170gr SP 8mm Mauser ). The bolt unlocked and extracted smoothly, but it looks like the primers backed out a fraction of a millimetre on most of the cases, the primer's edges are still rounded, no cratering around the firing pin strike (it is slightly off-centre though) , no other pressure signs than the primers backing out. It was my first time firing the rifle since I bought it, the dealer said it had its headspace checked and it was ok. Any clues why it could be doing this?
Would be to do with the bolt face, get a gunsmith to look, Cheers
I have a 113-year-old 30-06 Springfield. I reload for it and my 30-40 Kraig. Keeping with loads from my '1960s Hornady bible. I will not overdose these with too much powder! While @ the range one day, I fired another round of 06 (Something hit me in the face). I Had a hard time lifting the bolt and finding out the primer was gone, and the primer pocket was a crater! Damn sure wasn't a squib load! The head of the brass was deformed also. No blood was found, so I loaded another round. It performed like it should. I think it could have been overloaded with too much 3031 propellant.
Perhaps one got past me. ????
Thanks Lyle
Good vid but tip of the iceberg, I’d suggest everyone hand loading stick within component manufactures and SAAMI specs until they have not only a grasp of pressure signs but an understanding of pressure causes and effects. There are some solid tools and info available to assist in hand loading mixed components, wildcats and modified’s but you’ve got to know how to use and read them.
Cheers
I think that basic concept stands without having to be restated into needless multiplicity
@@freeandcriticalthinker4431
Your lovely word smithed statement doesn’t align with the reality.
Thanks Mark. I've been reloading my own ammo for 67 years and am always open to more/varying sources of expertise. A specific issue I've been dealing with for decades concerns my modernized 1903 Springfield. I'm now on my 3rd barrel with this weapon, first was the original 30/06, then a .240 Weatherby and now a 6.5/06 Ackley Improved. My primers consistently protrude/crater into the firing pin hole without any other apparent (to me) pressure signs. My bolt lift is easy etc. My case life with this new chambering seems adequate albeit I've not shot a lot of rounds through the weapon at this time. My .240 Weatherby cratered primers also. I'm wondering if you can advise me about the recommended difference between my firing pin outside diameter versus the firing pin hole diameter in the bolt face. What gap is acceptable? Or are my chamber pressures excessive? Thanks. I hope I've explained my issue adequately.
Not something there is a measurement, but something a good gunsmith should be able to determine with a glance, Cheers
@@markandsamafterwork Thanks Mark.
Flattened primers get my attention.
Cheers
It’s worth to mention that excessive head space will result in flat primers as well. If you have a loose chamber and fully calibrate your brass the primers will look terrible.
Cheers
👍
Thanks
I use federal large rifle magnum on all my large rifle reloading. I know they are softer then other brands, but what I think is strange is that I get extreme flattening of the primer, even on the loading manuals lower charging weights. I fired an interval of loadweights yesterday, and all of them showed VERY flat primers after firing, but no other pressure signs what I could see. what should one think of that when even the lowest charging weight in the powder manufacturers manual, giving extreme flat primers? The caliber is 6,5x55 swedish mauser, with norma 130 grain golden target and norma 203-b powder with norma loading data.
Not something to try to offer advice on with just an online comment, get the fired rounds to someone with hand loading experience, always lots in the many details that are there to be seen when in the hand, Cheers
@@markandsamafterwork seems to be a headspace issue. Theese cases were calibrated really hard, many years ago by an old gentleman. I measured them and if a shot case has an case shoulder measurement of lets say 0. The old calibrated ones was -0.35mm. New factory round about -0.25 and my newer correctly calibrated ones about -0.15 to -0.20 mm. Seems to be a problem when they have to much space to move around it seems.
Cheers
What about the neck of the brass I’m getting a black smoke mark running back up the slope of the brass that seems to me to be to much.
Not a over pressure sign, about other various things, hope to do a video on soon, Cheers
Доходчиво изложен материал.
cheers
🇺🇸👍🏼
Cheers
Why is my semi automatic 30-06 now always have the primer removed after firing. It was ok before but the gun would jam up and not cycle 20 rounds. A question for viewers.
Sounds like you should take to your gun smith or at least someone with decent experience, not something to work out online, not something you should mess with, Cheers
👍🎶🎵💡☀️
Cheers
after seeing Kentucky ballistics almost die from over pressured 50 cal round... I kno its extreme but it made me nervous about reloading which I'm still very interested in wether it's sub sonic rounds for my suppressors or custom prs loads
Cheers
I've had .22 mag cartridges split right down the side. Very difficult to remove.
Cheers
No 375 H&H, in the cases out the front?!!! Was there a 270W? Regards, adam.
Lol, no, just some eye candy, lol, cheers
How come factory ammo fires dirty and hand loaded ammo fires clean in barrel
Because of some or all the reasons listed, Cheers