Here's a tip; I just reloaded 40 PMC cases 40 times with no annealing and when I got to 20 reloads half of the cases had to be thrown out as that ring was forming around the case and from 20 to 30 reloads 10 more cases. From 30 to 35 reloads 5 more cases where thrown out but this time because the neck split. I have 5 left. Then I started reloading 40 Lepua cases again no annealing and I just reloaded them 40 times and NOT one case thrown out. By the way in both cases I full length the cases every 10 reloads and just neck sized everytime in both scenarios.
I told my wife 1) don't bring it up during probate. 2) deny if asked. 3) let our daughter and older son divide them up. She only knows about 3 of them anyway, best not to complicate things.
The cost of reloading my 30-30 is half of what the cheapest factory ammo costs. It took time and patience, but I figured it out. It was fun! Good video. New sub here. 👍
True! Had gotten a Lee loader kit for about $20 about 15 years ago for my .30-30. Reloaded about 500 rounds over the years and only had one misfire (bad primer). Make a box for about $12 when a store bought box is between $25-30. Plus reloading gives me something to do on my day off when it's snowing/raining.
@@hamblinhomestead4046 I've reloaded about 500 rounds in the past few months. But I shoot it for my local club here - next competition is in February. Saved a ton of money so far. I figure after about 2000 rounds it will have paid for all of my reloading equipment. 30-30 is waaay too expensive!
The main reason I reload is AVAILABLE AMMO. In the US, election year, covid, proposed laws/restrictions will dry the supply in 30-60 days. Having primers & powder stocked means I am not affected
Very good advise on picking a load. Never ever just go with some load you see on the internet. Do your research from several different sources. I have reloaded for over 40 years. In my opinion the chronograph is the best tool for working up loads safely. This gives you a good indication of pressure. Always start light and work your way up. You say don’t resize the brass all the way. Maybe for bolt guns. But if you are reloading for automatics “7.62x51” for example you have to set the shoulder back to create the proper head spacing. This is only done with a small base die. Ever small base die I have ever used has to cranked down ALL the way or you will not be able to get the correct head spacing. I check EVERY round I make with a headspace gauge.
Excellent advice sir on all fronts. I am writing in from Louisiana, USA and I LOVE your channel. Always great useful and practical tips that make you a better shooter. I started reloading in 1993 when I was 23 years old (that was 31 years ago) and I always pick up a new tip here and there from guys like you that make me a better Reloader and shooter. I reload because I absolutely love it, I enjoy the accuracy I can get from great match hand hunting loads, and it is so rewarding to harvest an animal with loads I have developed. Keep up the great work on your channel. Thank you and we love you in Louisiana!
Instead of a checklist, I have separate bins for each step of my reloading process. They're numbered in sequence. Example: "01 Deprime", "02 Flash Debur", "03 Primer Pocket Size", etc. Some of the steps are only needed the first time. Any brass in that bin is ready for that step. So if I leave it sitting for months, I still know what's needed, and what's been done, and what's next.
I’d just like to say how incredibly impressed I am with your safe handling habits in EVERY video, and EVERY moment of them. Whether you’re in the shop, on the range, or in a competition shoot, you are exceptionally disciplined and safe. It’s great to see someone be very professional every step of the way. You are a real treasure and outstanding ambassador to the sport.
I am a victim of #6. My MPA 6 Creedmoor with my good load shoots consistently. 3. I was trying to better that. But i am not sure that i am capable of better than .3. But i am working on that so i can shoot .2's consistently.
I 100% agree on the chasing your tail for the smallest group possible. I have a 300WM that shoots 1 MOA at 100 yards, but holds that 1 MOA very consistently out to distance.
... I am a hunter NOT a range warrior or target shooter so my shooting is either testing a load, a sight-in or shooting game ... I reload ammo for leverguns some of which are BLRs with notoriously "tight" chambers so I FULL LENGTH RESIZE my fired brass ... had the experience of a stuck cartridge in my BLR in 300 Win Mag while a trophy moose walked away ... needless to say that was the end of the neck sizing experiment for hunting ammo ... the holy grail "sub-MOA" doesn't matter as much as reliability when you're hunting an animal the size of a barn door ... I also learned the hard way that you cycle test ALL your ammo through the gun you will be hunting with BEFORE the hunt
Dear sir at least you didn't open a vein over it. On The Other Hand. Had a friend got close to a spot where Bull had pissed cows mauled him getting to piss. Yea Barn Door traveling rather fast at me. Get up she don't see you BRO.
Hi Piet, Great content this year. Bought the reloading for precision course and myself and my son worked through it together. What a nice father son thing to do. Lot of discussions and explanations between each other. "Stuck case" Well I have had a couple, found a perfect solution with a drill bit, tap and die set , strong bolt with some washers and a socket from a ratchet/socket. Then it is a slow and patient process. Must be honest most of the stuck case issues disappeared the moment I started using expanding mandrels set as an extra step, instead of using the built in expanding mandrel on the die. Have a great holiday.
Good advice. Another mistake that is relatively common is stubbornly chasing after the highest velocity at the expense of everything else. These days I will happily trade some velocity for stability and reliability. Cheers!
Happened to me the first time reloading.. I was using the spray on lube and didn't wait enough time before the IPA evaporated.. :-) an ended up making my own tool to extract the case. Mounted the die inverted, drilled and tapped the bottom and them pulled it out with a screw. 🙂
Had similar problem using Lee lube (never use it again) so I brought die to work and used a 25 ton press to push it out. After I got home from work that day I found in instructions for my Lee dies how to get it out with a hammer. Started with all Lee equipment but still like their dies best.
HI Piet; one thing that i do, i remove the expander from my sizing die, thru load powder, use an expander before seating the bullet. i often load .309 bullets for 300 BO. Brass lasts forever with no trimming.
Removing the expander has the added benefit of making stuck cases easier to remove. You can just screw the top of the die off and use a punch to hammer the brass out.
I size, on the upsizing stroke, load powder thru the top, thru a plastic funnel, switch to expander die, followed by bullet seating die then taper crimp die.@@texpatriot8462
When I started I got a few stuck cases. Remove die. Get a small metal rod as big as the neck, to fit inside of shell. Then use a palm nailer to shoot the brass out. Works like an impact on a stuck nut. Hold the die in one hand, with room for the case to shoot out, and the nailer in the other. Its not as violent as it sounds.
Yes, I've made mistake #5 (a stuck case in the die) a few times. Mistake #6 - I agree entirely. After load development and getting the optimal seating depth, go and practice. On this one, my advice is, "Don't sweat the small stuff!". You'll not only waste time, but when competing, you'll be thinking about that tiny little thing you should have done but didn't do, and that will distract you from concentrating on the target.
Thankfully I have yet to stick a case! I use the Hornaday Unique sizing wax, and it works great. I have made my own, with lanolin and alcohol, and if I’m doing a huge batch, I will spray a bunch of cases down, let them dry, then resize. When properly annealing and sizing (no more than .0015-.0020 shoulder bump) your brass will last a long time! I have cheap 6.5 creedmoor Hornady brass that I use for plinking steel, that has 7 firings. Primer pockets are starting to stretch, but it’s such a moderate load, that most are still loadable.
I've been reloading for a little while now, and moved 3000 miles (4800 km) a few months ago. Another mistake/tip I'd add to this list is, "Learn to sort and organize by use, not by type." For example, in packing to move, it became very clear that I didn't need a box for all my resizing dies, and another for my seating dies, and so on, part by part. What I really needed was some way to store everything for a specific cartridge together. That way, when unpacking, I have a bag/box/chunk of styrofoam/whatever, that has EVERYTHING used for 5.56mm. Another for .308. Another for 6.5 Grendel. And so on. That way, when I'm ready to start reloading that cartridge type again, it's all in one place. The same goes temporary storage, not just moving. If you take a break from reloading 5.56mm, and want to set the dies aside to make room for something else, keep all the 5.56-specific items together in a bin or box or some such. There are other aspects of keeping a workshop organized, but this is a good starting point. Sorry for the late post, but I really like to periodically refer back to this video (and several others) to make sure none of the mistakes have crept in when I wasn't paying attention.
Easy way to remove stuck cases: Remove the die with the stuck case from the press. Remove the expander mandrel and threaded rod (if you are using this kind of sizing die). Put the die in to boiling water for 10-20 seconds. Use pliers to pull the die from the boiling water. Immediately hold the die under the cold water tap - poring the water into the stuck case from the top for only a second or two. Immediately take a steel rod and insert it into the case from top and tap the rod with a hammer. This pushes out the stuck case because the brass will react/retract to the change in temperature much faster than the hardened steel. Merry Christmas!
Brings to mind the real world historical science behind the saying "Cold enoigh to freeze the alls off a brass monkey"........it is is maritime in origin, brass "monkeys" that are the cast brass gizmos that hold the bottom layer of a pyramid of stacked iron cannonballs on the deck of old sailing vessels beside the cannons for immediate use storage.
That stuck case scenario is frustrating. Had one on resizing 30-06. Had to buy a new die. Never got the stuck case out. Turns out it was one of those little stainless steel pins from wet tumbling that was inside the neck of the case, got caught on the bead on the way out. Check for those little pins hiding in cases.
Buy a reloading manual from your bullet maker, I shoot a lot of Barnes bullets so I got a Barnes manual, they also have some reloading data online. Don't get load recipes off some forum, RUclips video or from a friend who is an idiot. And learn to recognize pressure signs like hard bolt lift, extractor marks on the brass and flattened or loose primers. Most important thing I learned was when you're reloading, RELOAD - do it start to finish without any interruptions or distractions - leave your phone in another room. If you don't have your head in it you may inadvertently double-charge a case or seat a bullet on an empty one, two big no-no's.
I got into reloading for my 338 lapua magnum. Its fun, it takes focus and a system to do it well. rleading 338 really doesnt save at all. It affords me to shoot more.
Loved listening to you. I also listened to the podcast of you and Eric Cortina. Best advice you gave was not telling your mate what things cost. I just tell her it's less per month than her hair, nails, eyelashes and pedicure and that gives me amazing freedom. Keep on keeping on.
in your list, you're annealing last ! my assumption annealing will be first, as it's needed to ensure the elasticity of the brass and avoid overworking it during full/neck resizing.
If you compare a "per round" basis, you'll offset your initial investment on equipment and break even by 300 rounds up to $700. 600 rounds up to $1500. Add in more calibers comparing factory ammo prices to your components and dies and you do save money. All of my equipment investment was offset by the first 1500 rounds on one caliber. The other eight calibers i load were all savings allowing me to shoot 3x as much with tuned ammo compared to generic factory rounds.
Stick case story: I had primed a 300wm case and realised it was not usable later, so I decided to salvage that R0.85 primer... case got stuck, snapped the decapping pin in the process... bought a R600 stuck case remover device, broke something on there as well, but eventually got it out... all for 1 R0.85 primer 😞
I've stuck brass in sizing dies more often than most I feel. I have a door hinge pin and a brass hammer. I've become more patient with my presses and rotate the brass while cycling the press several times to eliminated sticking.
if you want a cheep way to lube up brass and not that messy use sunscreen. it is safe to use and dries out and doesn't effect the round.... but smells different after a shot. and dont need to clean brass after it. and the sunscreen stays on your fingers over 5 brass or more
Excellent tips for sure. I am getting into loading my 6 Creedmoor for my PRS rifle this weekend. Got new brass to load and get fire formed, then size them to my chamber. I'm excited to show off what I do in my loading room on my little channel. Have a very Merry Christmas Piet!!!
I've gotten cases stuck in my dies on 3 occasions and on each occasion it was 100% too much lube. I suspected the first time was excess lube and accidently replicated it the next time unintentionally using too much lube because the i had been told i didn't use enough lube. I've since found out too much lube leading to stuck cases is a thing. I went away from using hornady one shot and started using good old crc. It's heaps cheaper and works way beter. The only thing I'll say about it is you need less crc than you'd think. It really is that good
I was sorta thinking the same about reloading. Basically I figured I'd either reload way more, buy just extremely expensive everything, something to even out the cost. I would most likely load in 5 bullet increments and take very specific notes
The _jump_ on telling your spouse about price varies. You have to do careful testing to find the sweet spot so she doesn't blow up and hurt herself, or even you. I've found that dividing the price by 10.3 gives me the best value. Accordingly, the Area 419 Zero press is currently $123 in my household.
Yep, I had s case stuck due to insufficient lube. The rim was half ripped off and that case went to the "Sacrifices to the God of shooting" shelf (apologies to Burt Munro). Screwed the top off the die and used a punch to remove the case from the die.
Lube: Coconut oil is the best, cheapest, cleanest, most easy to use. Try it, and you will thank me. Use sparingly: almost impossible to use too little.
Ive had a 300bo,308,and 223 case stuck in the dies and its for sure one of the most frustrating things with reloading because its one of THE MOST PREVENTABLE steps in the reloading process. In my experience its typically due to a case not properly lubed. That could be due to user error (not adding enough case lube) or product error (the product evaporates to quickly). My go to process currently is using a rubber glove with hornady unique case lube. Apply a small amount to the rubber glove, work the product around with your hand and start grabbing cases. This works the best for me so far because I know each case has a significantly more amount of product and I drop the lubed cases into a clean container of some sort. yes it takes alittle bit longer in comparison to the bag and spray method but the trade off is reducing the likelihood of a stuck case to extremely minimal to almost 0. Love the content man and good luck on your future matches
i had a 7x64 bren case stuck, user error that I could have prevented, somehow I used the wrong foot piece in my press. had to take the die to a engineering shop to have the brass cut out of the die. The die is ruined now.
... love your videos because you have such clear pronunciation! It's very easy for me to understand your English - (I'm not a native English speaker)-(I'm from Austria)! Been following you for a very long time! Keep it up - very interesting information and shooting topics on your channel! Merry Christmas!
Excellent advice you are spot on. You learn this stuff by doing and the more you do it you can separate the BS from reality. I agree start with a manual you trust and do your own proofing and variables are key to learning this stuff and record it that is important.
Hey piet. Never saw that link for setting up the sizing die? I moved to the US from cape town and got into my long range a year ago. I have been using erik cortina’s method to bumps the shoulders back only. But always keen to hear others. Wats your link
Christmas greetings from Northern Ireland. Love you videos. Yes I have had my 6.5x55 Swedish stick on me 3 times over the years. Yes it is a pain. I made a wee die that I can push the pin through and the case comes of easily. It happened due to the lubricant wearing off. I was using the Lee stuff like cream. Stopped that and now use 1 Shot. Never looked back. Have a great Christmas with you friends and family on the beach. Be thankful you don't line in NI, we have just had the worst year on record for rain, so sick of it.
I do not understand .001 of neck tension. Exactly what does that mean? .001 of what? And why use an expander die when the die's decapping stem has a neck sizing mandrel on it.
Die manufactures have to by law must provide specific guidance to protect themselves from future lawsuits. Yes the cases may not last as long, but in general their guidance will provide a standard that will work with everyone from beginner to Pro.
I got some cases stuck in my resizing die. Destroyed the cases to get them out. But to be fair, I got into that situation in the first place due to the problems that arise from too much lube, ie: the case being crushed a bit at the shoulder...
Let me say this that if you stick to just basics and no fancy tools or match bullets it is still cheaper to load in most incidents. Now if you are like me justifying 1000.00's of dollars on making the most accurate ammo possible for real target shooting you cant go wrong. You cant go wrong with a balance beam scale that has been accurized but most wont buy a 2000.00 powder dispenser. Reloading for me has been a labor of love and a life hobby that has brought joy at the range.
Question for neck tension. I reload to hunt and ranges not exceeding 300 yards on average 175-225 you said difference in accuracy long ranges 500 and further. Will I notice much difference on these shorter ranges if dont use an expander ?
You dont need lube, if you dont clean brass. Plus it saves time. Too clean of brass makes bullet stick. That carbon build up acts as lube. And residue never accumulates so much that it affects the results... the brass itself gets used up as time goes by, and you throw it away. That's the words from Erik Cortina, he stopped cleaning brass long ago.
I have a 223 die that now lives in the middle of my reloading setup as a reminder. The case got stuck good enough it ripped the case rim, broke the extraction tool I was using and them being a creative idiot I used a punch going through the die and punched out the bottom of the case. The reminder that die serves to to check very carefully every piece of brass has been lubed because it can get very stuck and be there forever like that mangled piece in the 223 die.
www.impactproshop.net/product/reloading-checklist/
Thank you very much for the content you put out. Very informative. Btw, the link for your. Checklist, does not work…
Interesting that anneal is so far down the list
@carel-chrisswanepoel5213 I noted Eric Cortina gas Anneals before cleaning. It's probably because it s gas. Piet uses an Amp Annealer.
Here's a tip; I just reloaded 40 PMC cases 40 times with no annealing and when I got to 20 reloads half of the cases had to be thrown out as that ring was forming around the case and from 20 to 30 reloads 10 more cases. From 30 to 35 reloads 5 more cases where thrown out but this time because the neck split. I have 5 left.
Then I started reloading 40 Lepua cases again no annealing and I just reloaded them 40 times and NOT one case thrown out.
By the way in both cases I full length the cases every 10 reloads and just neck sized everytime in both scenarios.
@@christosvaliotis7578 you have to add it to basket then checkout and it’s emailed. No credit card details required.
LOL! $100. I told my wife, "If I ever die in an accident, please get the rifles appraised before you sell them. They don't cost what I told you."
I told my wife
1) don't bring it up during probate.
2) deny if asked.
3) let our daughter and older son divide them up.
She only knows about 3 of them anyway, best not to complicate things.
My one worry in life is my wife sells my guns when I pass away for what I told her her what I payed
Told my wife my will is going to have a breakdown of what everything cost so dont be mad at me lol.
What you say is:
The inflation on my old rifles and gear is of the charts. Get a professional and up to date appraisal before you sell anything 😉
I absolutely love this!
The cost of reloading my 30-30 is half of what the cheapest factory ammo costs. It took time and patience, but I figured it out. It was fun! Good video. New sub here. 👍
True! Had gotten a Lee loader kit for about $20 about 15 years ago for my .30-30. Reloaded about 500 rounds over the years and only had one misfire (bad primer). Make a box for about $12 when a store bought box is between $25-30. Plus reloading gives me something to do on my day off when it's snowing/raining.
@@hamblinhomestead4046 I've reloaded about 500 rounds in the past few months. But I shoot it for my local club here - next competition is in February.
Saved a ton of money so far. I figure after about 2000 rounds it will have paid for all of my reloading equipment. 30-30 is waaay too expensive!
Amen to that
The main reason I reload is AVAILABLE AMMO. In the US, election year, covid, proposed laws/restrictions will dry the supply in 30-60 days. Having primers & powder stocked means I am not affected
Very good advise on picking a load. Never ever just go with some load you see on the internet. Do your research from several different sources. I have reloaded for over 40 years. In my opinion the chronograph is the best tool for working up loads safely. This gives you a good indication of pressure. Always start light and work your way up. You say don’t resize the brass all the way. Maybe for bolt guns. But if you are reloading for automatics “7.62x51” for example you have to set the shoulder back to create the proper head spacing. This is only done with a small base die. Ever small base die I have ever used has to cranked down ALL the way or you will not be able to get the correct head spacing. I check EVERY round I make with a headspace gauge.
Excellent advice sir on all fronts. I am writing in from Louisiana, USA and I LOVE your channel. Always great useful and practical tips that make you a better shooter. I started reloading in 1993 when I was 23 years old (that was 31 years ago) and I always pick up a new tip here and there from guys like you that make me a better Reloader and shooter. I reload because I absolutely love it, I enjoy the accuracy I can get from great match hand hunting loads, and it is so rewarding to harvest an animal with loads I have developed. Keep up the great work on your channel. Thank you and we love you in Louisiana!
Instead of a checklist, I have separate bins for each step of my reloading process. They're numbered in sequence. Example: "01 Deprime", "02 Flash Debur", "03 Primer Pocket Size", etc. Some of the steps are only needed the first time. Any brass in that bin is ready for that step. So if I leave it sitting for months, I still know what's needed, and what's been done, and what's next.
nice. very smart.
My APW expander mandrel arrived today - 6 days from ordering from you in SA to arriving in freezing cold UK ❤
Hope you enjoy it!
I’d just like to say how incredibly impressed I am with your safe handling habits in EVERY video, and EVERY moment of them. Whether you’re in the shop, on the range, or in a competition shoot, you are exceptionally disciplined and safe. It’s great to see someone be very professional every step of the way. You are a real treasure and outstanding ambassador to the sport.
Out of all of these tips #12 was the most important.
So far I have only spent $100 on all my equipment 😂😂
I am a victim of #6. My MPA 6 Creedmoor with my good load shoots consistently. 3. I was trying to better that. But i am not sure that i am capable of better than .3. But i am working on that so i can shoot .2's consistently.
I 100% agree on the chasing your tail for the smallest group possible. I have a 300WM that shoots 1 MOA at 100 yards, but holds that 1 MOA very consistently out to distance.
... I am a hunter NOT a range warrior or target shooter so my shooting is either testing a load, a sight-in or shooting game ... I reload ammo for leverguns some of which are BLRs with notoriously "tight" chambers so I FULL LENGTH RESIZE my fired brass ... had the experience of a stuck cartridge in my BLR in 300 Win Mag while a trophy moose walked away ... needless to say that was the end of the neck sizing experiment for hunting ammo ... the holy grail "sub-MOA" doesn't matter as much as reliability when you're hunting an animal the size of a barn door ... I also learned the hard way that you cycle test ALL your ammo through the gun you will be hunting with BEFORE the hunt
Dear sir at least you didn't open a vein over it. On The Other Hand. Had a friend got close to a spot where Bull had pissed cows mauled him getting to piss. Yea Barn Door traveling rather fast at me. Get up she don't see you BRO.
Hi Piet,
Great content this year.
Bought the reloading for precision course and myself and my son worked through it together. What a nice father son thing to do. Lot of discussions and explanations between each other.
"Stuck case"
Well I have had a couple, found a perfect solution with a drill bit, tap and die set , strong bolt with some washers and a socket from a ratchet/socket. Then it is a slow and patient process.
Must be honest most of the stuck case issues disappeared the moment I started using expanding mandrels set as an extra step, instead of using the built in expanding mandrel on the die.
Have a great holiday.
Good advice.
Another mistake that is relatively common is stubbornly chasing after the highest velocity at the expense of everything else. These days I will happily trade some velocity for stability and reliability.
Cheers!
Happened to me the first time reloading.. I was using the spray on lube and didn't wait enough time before the IPA evaporated.. :-) an ended up making my own tool to extract the case. Mounted the die inverted, drilled and tapped the bottom and them pulled it out with a screw. 🙂
I had to invent the same method.
😅
Had similar problem using Lee lube (never use it again) so I brought die to work and used a 25 ton press to push it out. After I got home from work that day I found in instructions for my Lee dies how to get it out with a hammer. Started with all Lee equipment but still like their dies best.
HI Piet; one thing that i do, i remove the expander from my sizing die, thru load powder, use an expander before seating the bullet. i often load .309 bullets for 300 BO. Brass lasts forever with no trimming.
Removing the expander has the added benefit of making stuck cases easier to remove. You can just screw the top of the die off and use a punch to hammer the brass out.
I am confused. You don't expand, then drop powder, then expand, then seat? Why not size, expand, drop powder, seat in separate steps?
I size, on the upsizing stroke, load powder thru the top, thru a plastic funnel, switch to expander die, followed by bullet seating die then taper crimp die.@@texpatriot8462
My reloading stuff was bought "long" before Pete was born....I've saved lots of money reloading;)
Good man!
@@IMPACTSHOOTINGDon't tell you anything that might upset you. Right!
When I started I got a few stuck cases. Remove die. Get a small metal rod as big as the neck, to fit inside of shell. Then use a palm nailer to shoot the brass out. Works like an impact on a stuck nut. Hold the die in one hand, with room for the case to shoot out, and the nailer in the other. Its not as violent as it sounds.
Yes, I've made mistake #5 (a stuck case in the die) a few times. Mistake #6 - I agree entirely. After load development and getting the optimal seating depth, go and practice. On this one, my advice is, "Don't sweat the small stuff!". You'll not only waste time, but when competing, you'll be thinking about that tiny little thing you should have done but didn't do, and that will distract you from concentrating on the target.
Thankfully I have yet to stick a case! I use the Hornaday Unique sizing wax, and it works great. I have made my own, with lanolin and alcohol, and if I’m doing a huge batch, I will spray a bunch of cases down, let them dry, then resize. When properly annealing and sizing (no more than .0015-.0020 shoulder bump) your brass will last a long time! I have cheap 6.5 creedmoor Hornady brass that I use for plinking steel, that has 7 firings. Primer pockets are starting to stretch, but it’s such a moderate load, that most are still loadable.
I've been reloading for a little while now, and moved 3000 miles (4800 km) a few months ago. Another mistake/tip I'd add to this list is, "Learn to sort and organize by use, not by type." For example, in packing to move, it became very clear that I didn't need a box for all my resizing dies, and another for my seating dies, and so on, part by part. What I really needed was some way to store everything for a specific cartridge together. That way, when unpacking, I have a bag/box/chunk of styrofoam/whatever, that has EVERYTHING used for 5.56mm. Another for .308. Another for 6.5 Grendel. And so on. That way, when I'm ready to start reloading that cartridge type again, it's all in one place. The same goes temporary storage, not just moving. If you take a break from reloading 5.56mm, and want to set the dies aside to make room for something else, keep all the 5.56-specific items together in a bin or box or some such. There are other aspects of keeping a workshop organized, but this is a good starting point. Sorry for the late post, but I really like to periodically refer back to this video (and several others) to make sure none of the mistakes have crept in when I wasn't paying attention.
Easy way to remove stuck cases:
Remove the die with the stuck case from the press. Remove the expander mandrel and threaded rod (if you are using this kind of sizing die).
Put the die in to boiling water for 10-20 seconds. Use pliers to pull the die from the boiling water. Immediately hold the die under the cold water tap - poring the water into the stuck case from the top for only a second or two. Immediately take a steel rod and insert it into the case from top and tap the rod with a hammer. This pushes out the stuck case because the brass will react/retract to the change in temperature much faster than the hardened steel.
Merry Christmas!
Brings to mind the real world historical science behind the saying "Cold enoigh to freeze the alls off a brass monkey"........it is is maritime in origin, brass "monkeys" that are the cast brass gizmos that hold the bottom layer of a pyramid of stacked iron cannonballs on the deck of old sailing vessels beside the cannons for immediate use storage.
That stuck case scenario is frustrating. Had one on resizing 30-06. Had to buy a new die. Never got the stuck case out. Turns out it was one of those little stainless steel pins from wet tumbling that was inside the neck of the case, got caught on the bead on the way out. Check for those little pins hiding in cases.
Buy a reloading manual from your bullet maker, I shoot a lot of Barnes bullets so I got a Barnes manual, they also have some reloading data online. Don't get load recipes off some forum, RUclips video or from a friend who is an idiot. And learn to recognize pressure signs like hard bolt lift, extractor marks on the brass and flattened or loose primers. Most important thing I learned was when you're reloading, RELOAD - do it start to finish without any interruptions or distractions - leave your phone in another room. If you don't have your head in it you may inadvertently double-charge a case or seat a bullet on an empty one, two big no-no's.
I got into reloading for my 338 lapua magnum. Its fun, it takes focus and a system to do it well. rleading 338 really doesnt save at all. It affords me to shoot more.
Loved listening to you. I also listened to the podcast of you and Eric Cortina. Best advice you gave was not telling your mate what things cost. I just tell her it's less per month than her hair, nails, eyelashes and pedicure and that gives me amazing freedom. Keep on keeping on.
Awesome! Thank you!
in your list, you're annealing last ! my assumption annealing will be first, as it's needed to ensure the elasticity of the brass and avoid overworking it during full/neck resizing.
If you compare a "per round" basis, you'll offset your initial investment on equipment and break even by 300 rounds up to $700. 600 rounds up to $1500. Add in more calibers comparing factory ammo prices to your components and dies and you do save money.
All of my equipment investment was offset by the first 1500 rounds on one caliber. The other eight calibers i load were all savings allowing me to shoot 3x as much with tuned ammo compared to generic factory rounds.
I didn’t hear you mention ( primer seating depth ) . Very important on semi auto !……..
I have had 3 stuck cases. I got all 3 out. Lack of proper type of lube. Imperial sizing wax is my new lube for rifles. Hornady one shot for pistol.
😅I have had a .223 case get stuck due to to little lube!! What a mission to get that case unstuck!
Stick case story: I had primed a 300wm case and realised it was not usable later, so I decided to salvage that R0.85 primer... case got stuck, snapped the decapping pin in the process... bought a R600 stuck case remover device, broke something on there as well, but eventually got it out... all for 1 R0.85 primer 😞
Oh man thats a brutal lesson!
I've stuck brass in sizing dies more often than most I feel. I have a door hinge pin and a brass hammer. I've become more patient with my presses and rotate the brass while cycling the press several times to eliminated sticking.
if you want a cheep way to lube up brass and not that messy use sunscreen. it is safe to use and dries out and doesn't effect the round.... but smells different after a shot. and dont need to clean brass after it. and the sunscreen stays on your fingers over 5 brass or more
I absolutely use loads I find on the internet but I verify them with a simulator (GRT or QuickLOAD) then back off 10% and work up
Looking for the check list!
www.impactproshop.net/product/reloading-checklist/
Cost depends om the cartridge that you are shooting. Try finding an inexpensive box of 8x64s, 8x68s or 416 Taylor.
Thank you so much Piet! And merry Christmas to you and the family from Vegas!
I load coal to what my magazine will chamber easily. I'm still learning but single loads I can lengthen them further to lands.
Excellent tips for sure. I am getting into loading my 6 Creedmoor for my PRS rifle this weekend. Got new brass to load and get fire formed, then size them to my chamber. I'm excited to show off what I do in my loading room on my little channel.
Have a very Merry Christmas Piet!!!
I've gotten cases stuck in my dies on 3 occasions and on each occasion it was 100% too much lube. I suspected the first time was excess lube and accidently replicated it the next time unintentionally using too much lube because the i had been told i didn't use enough lube. I've since found out too much lube leading to stuck cases is a thing. I went away from using hornady one shot and started using good old crc. It's heaps cheaper and works way beter. The only thing I'll say about it is you need less crc than you'd think. It really is that good
Great job this year. Happy for you!
I had an issue with getting a different brand shell holder from the die,,I have used heat to remove a stuck brass b4
Great video and thanks for mentioning the silly idea of the savings !
I appreciate the mood lighting at the rifle’s pistol grip
Yep! Stuck a 325 WSM case and I had to give up and get a new die. Waste of time and money. Ugh
I was sorta thinking the same about reloading. Basically I figured I'd either reload way more, buy just extremely expensive everything, something to even out the cost. I would most likely load in 5 bullet increments and take very specific notes
The _jump_ on telling your spouse about price varies. You have to do careful testing to find the sweet spot so she doesn't blow up and hurt herself, or even you. I've found that dividing the price by 10.3 gives me the best value. Accordingly, the Area 419 Zero press is currently $123 in my household.
Good tips! 😂😂😂
I have a stuck 22.250 case in a Hornady full length die 😢
Yep, I had s case stuck due to insufficient lube. The rim was half ripped off and that case went to the "Sacrifices to the God of shooting" shelf (apologies to Burt Munro).
Screwed the top off the die and used a punch to remove the case from the die.
My magazines are my limiting factor is why I measure coal. My rifles I can single feed is Ojive measured. I 100% agree
Merry Christmas. Great advice for long range reloading
The rcbs stuck case removal kit has saved me a time or two 😂
Just about to get into reloading and this video has been a godsend my friend! Thanks for the knowledge, merry Christmas from Melbourne, Australia!
Lube: Coconut oil is the best, cheapest, cleanest, most easy to use. Try it, and you will thank me. Use sparingly: almost impossible to use too little.
Ive had a 300bo,308,and 223 case stuck in the dies and its for sure one of the most frustrating things with reloading because its one of THE MOST PREVENTABLE steps in the reloading process. In my experience its typically due to a case not properly lubed. That could be due to user error (not adding enough case lube) or product error (the product evaporates to quickly). My go to process currently is using a rubber glove with hornady unique case lube. Apply a small amount to the rubber glove, work the product around with your hand and start grabbing cases. This works the best for me so far because I know each case has a significantly more amount of product and I drop the lubed cases into a clean container of some sort. yes it takes alittle bit longer in comparison to the bag and spray method but the trade off is reducing the likelihood of a stuck case to extremely minimal to almost 0. Love the content man and good luck on your future matches
i had a 7x64 bren case stuck, user error that I could have prevented, somehow I used the wrong foot piece in my press. had to take the die to a engineering shop to have the brass cut out of the die. The die is ruined now.
Where are you going skiing in Switzerland? If you happen to be in Davos we could catch up 😊 for a Eichhörnli.
Good vid. Great tips. Are you South African? We are. But live in New Zealand now. It must be expensive in SA getting the hardware you need....
... love your videos because you have such clear pronunciation! It's very easy for me to understand your English - (I'm not a native English speaker)-(I'm from Austria)! Been following you for a very long time! Keep it up - very interesting information and shooting topics on your channel! Merry Christmas!
Excellent advice you are spot on. You learn this stuff by doing and the more you do it you can separate the BS from reality. I agree start with a manual you trust and do your own proofing and variables are key to learning this stuff and record it that is important.
Hey piet. Never saw that link for setting up the sizing die?
I moved to the US from cape town and got into my long range a year ago. I have been using erik cortina’s method to bumps the shoulders back only. But always keen to hear others. Wats your link
Well good for you an educated reloaded you go buddy.
Christmas greetings from Northern Ireland. Love you videos. Yes I have had my 6.5x55 Swedish stick on me 3 times over the years. Yes it is a pain. I made a wee die that I can push the pin through and the case comes of easily. It happened due to the lubricant wearing off. I was using the Lee stuff like cream. Stopped that and now use 1 Shot. Never looked back. Have a great Christmas with you friends and family on the beach. Be thankful you don't line in NI, we have just had the worst year on record for rain, so sick of it.
Someone needs to combine the impact 4000 with the Burris Varacity PH. I think those two were made for each other.
Enjoy your videos and your approach, keep it up
luv this guy one of the best but he didnt post the correct way of setting up your die. I am curious
Have a wonderful holidays and thank you for the nice videos you make on 2023
Stuck case, OMG. 2 hours to get a 223 out of a die.
I stick my brass prep process on the box with masking tape and tick off as its done.
Got a 338 lm stuck. Never got it out. Probably still have it stuck somewhere.
Thanks Piet again for your insight into your precision world. Hoped you had a wonderful Christmas and enjoy the New Year. Andy from Australia 🇦🇺
Same to you!
Great tips Pete. Thank you and Merry Christmas 🎄
Same here Piet, my Dillon 750 was only $100.00 . . . . . . 😂😂😂👍
Wishing you a very Merry Christmas and a great New Year from Australia . . . . .
Thanks
Thanks for the great content throughout the year merry Christmas and have a great new year
Very Helpful, Thank you.....Merry Christmas !
I do not understand .001 of neck tension. Exactly what does that mean? .001 of what? And why use an expander die when the die's decapping stem has a neck sizing mandrel on it.
Where is that video you said you posted on properly setting up a fl die.. I've been following the manual. Curious to see what you do
Thank you for all the wonderful content
Keep safe and enjoy the holidays
Die manufactures have to by law must provide specific guidance to protect themselves from future lawsuits. Yes the cases may not last as long, but in general their guidance will provide a standard that will work with everyone from beginner to Pro.
Thank you! Fantastic channel. Been watching for years and have learned a ton. Happy holidays!
I got some cases stuck in my resizing die. Destroyed the cases to get them out. But to be fair, I got into that situation in the first place due to the problems that arise from too much lube, ie: the case being crushed a bit at the shoulder...
Piet...Jy het n "smart" ou geword. Thx 4 sharing your experience/knowledge etc.
Thank you for awesome content!! Merry Christmas!!!
§§8 lapua Sticking in mx diy ... hard to get out
Bad case of what ocd heard of this therapy you might try. Hope it improves your condition.
Hahaha, actually went for some tests today 😂🤣
Let me say this that if you stick to just basics and no fancy tools or match bullets it is still cheaper to load in most incidents. Now if you are like me justifying 1000.00's of dollars on making the most accurate ammo possible for real target shooting you cant go wrong. You cant go wrong with a balance beam scale that has been accurized but most wont buy a 2000.00 powder dispenser. Reloading for me has been a labor of love and a life hobby that has brought joy at the range.
Hi,my interested whats corect amunition lenght 308 cal ,175 gr Sierra HPBT ,to OGIVE?
thank you
Thanks for all the great content. Cheers🎉
Great video Piet. 👍🏼
Lol, Merry Christmas Pete & Happy New Year. Enjoy the Holidays.
Thank you for all the informational videos, great work keep it up, cheers 🎉
Hi Piet,
Can't seem to open that link to your list. Please assist.
Question for neck tension. I reload to hunt and ranges not exceeding 300 yards on average 175-225 you said difference in accuracy long ranges 500 and further. Will I notice much difference on these shorter ranges if dont use an expander ?
Not seeing the link for full length sizing ??
I also want that Area149 press at 100USD
You dont need lube, if you dont clean brass. Plus it saves time. Too clean of brass makes bullet stick. That carbon build up acts as lube. And residue never accumulates so much that it affects the results... the brass itself gets used up as time goes by, and you throw it away. That's the words from Erik Cortina, he stopped cleaning brass long ago.
Pete what is the best primer for a 375 Ruger rifle.
one and only time i used Hornady one shot... never used that lube again.
I have a 223 die that now lives in the middle of my reloading setup as a reminder. The case got stuck good enough it ripped the case rim, broke the extraction tool I was using and them being a creative idiot I used a punch going through the die and punched out the bottom of the case. The reminder that die serves to to check very carefully every piece of brass has been lubed because it can get very stuck and be there forever like that mangled piece in the 223 die.