I am currently 88 years old. When i was 14 years old a friend of my fathers introduced us to reloading cartridges at his home. In order to find the over all length of the cartridge in my fathers chamber, he used an empty unprimed case. He then seated a bullet into the case longer than necessary and seated it with the bolt. After removing it from the chamber he used a match to smoke the bullet. He then made die adjustments untill he got the overall length he desired based on the rifling marks on the smoked bullet. He resmoked the bullet several times while doing so. I still use that method today for finding the overall cartridge length. No special tools at all are needed, just the gun, an empty case, a bullet, and some plain old matches.
If you gingerly place the cartridge into the chamber with the Hornady tool, it won’t be as far in as what the bolt will do, thus the bullet will be pushed too far out. If the Hornady tool is substituted by the bolt, it will compress the cartridge slightly more into the chamber and thus push the bullet less into the bore. The Locktite method has been used for many years because of its superior potential to be more precise with seating and engaging the lands than with the Hornady tool. Just use the bolt to properly compress the case into the chamber, let the Locktite harden, then extract the cartridge with the bolt; now you have an exact base to ogive template for the bullet chosen.
For someone who just starting reloading and not sure where it ll take me (and you all probably know how expensive starting this hobby can be) this is awesome .. plust this is something you can use no need to have extra tools .. super big thank you !
I check my chambers like you did in the last part, but before i put the case in , i drill the primer pocket out, so when i finish i pour epoxy into the case and the i use them to set may seater die start point up as it is now solid and you cant move the head unless you try realy hard.
I've been using a similar method.I use a collet die to put a slight bit of neck tension that I can still pull the bullet out with my finger. I've also used a dremel to cut a notch in the neck of a sized case to achieve the same thing for cartridges I don't have a neck die for.
I like this method a lot. I used to gently place a bullet in a fired case and leave it long. Close the bolt. Measure from the muzzle to the tip of the bullet. Remove the case and bullet and measure to closed bolt from the muzzle again. Subtract the two measurements and get my overall cartridge length to the tip of the bullet when just touching the lands.
A couple points , you can drill a tap a spent case yourself by hand , if you got the proper tools n equipment. Second on this tip I myself use 262 loctite and when setting the round in the chamber , I place it carefully by hand then use the bolt to set it. Then wait 15 minutes for the 262 loctite to setup. Then take the measurement. I save that round as a gauge tool for that particular firearm for reference only. The last point if you are looking for the most awesome bench vise system work your firearms made take a look at Howard’s total vise system. A lot of videos on RUclips about it. Full disclosure here, I’ve purchased his whole system, it’s totally awesome and vary heavy duty. He is located in Lolo Montana. His workmanship on his products are A+. He makes everything himself right here in the USA. It’s all steel components, and the knobs are highest quality and they are great people to deal with. I highly recommend him and I’m totally pleased with my purchase and you will to.
Hi Pete Another way of chamber measurement is to use a fired case and partially neck size the cartridge case and then using you press insert the head but not seat it to the full depth; use a candle and then blacken the head; what you want to see is the land marks on the head; place the round in the chamber gently and using the bolt to push the head home and further into the cartridge case Gently unlatch the bolt and extract the cartridge; you can now measure the overall length walla complete
I love this method. My grandfather taught it to me "a few years ago" back in roughly 1964 when he started me reloading my ,22 Hornet at 12 years old. I've used the "Soot Trick" for over nearly 60 years now and never gone wrong with it. That grand old man likey forgot more about the fine arts to reloading than he ever taught me but blessed me with a love of our 2nd Amendment and all things firearms & reloading that carried through me to both my children and then to 3 of my 5 grandsons so far with the 2 youngest now both almost 12, chomping at the bit to begin reloading without PaPa over their shoulders.
Great tip! I’ll have to try it. I’ve also taken a neck sized case and cut a couple of longitudinal slits with a dremel, and that holds the bullet but allows it to push back against the lands into the case. That definitely does nuke the case though where this will still save your fired case. I have to say that 7 mm 300 win mag is impressive! 195 grains at 3000 FPS!? I’m coming up with a huge 3896 foot lbs for that guy, a 1 mile rifle there! Thanks for sharing.
Have used this method a few times. Usually if you try a few cases you can find one that is snug enough to hold the projectile without any lock tight. Also have just used closing the bolt to set the length instead of pushing it with something. Love all the content you post. From 🇨🇦
@@conservativesniperhunter7439 I'm completely new to this and have heard that before but wouldn't that give you a more true result? Why wouldn't the matching bolt and acting together with the bolt closed not be the most true result?
I'm certain somebody has asked during the last year and a half this video has been out, but why not just run the bolt into battery after using the loctite?
You don't need lock tight. Resize your casing. insert projectile. slightly bump projectile into casing. Insert cartridge into rifle. close bolt. open bolt. take measurement.
Awesome thanks. i have been doing it for a while now as a friend showed me the trick, it improved the accuracy on every rifle i have ever used it on. without using special tools.
Nice primer flex in the background. You know here in the states right now you can put a pinch of them into a little plastic baggie and sell them on the street for $100 a pop...
Great tip Pieter. Many shooters do not understand that there could be anything up to 0.010 or more difference between the Hornady Modified case and their fire formed cases fired in their chamber . Yes you can have your fired cases drill and tapped to fit onto the Hornady tool and that’s fine but the method you just showed us is super quick and easy and works just as well .
Instead of loctite, use a fired, neck sized case, cut an "X" across the mouth of the case to create 4 "petals." Use pliers if needed to slightly bend the 4 petals created from the X cut such that a bullet is snug, but still able to slide. Using a fine tip pen, make a mark around the top edge of a petal and on the bullet (this is just a way to confirm the bullet actually moves), then gently chamber this round, then gently extract it. Take your measurement. Repeat a couple times to ensure consistency. Using the cut neck, you can now use that same casing every time you try a different bullet and record your measurement, no need to mess with loctite or sacrificing a case for every different bullet you want to measure. Also, it's better to actually chamber the dummy round with the bolt and not just push it in until it stops because in actual use, that's how your rounds are going to be used. You'll get a better measurement of how the round will actually sit in the chamber.
Piet. I tried the method and it worked great. I kept the case and bullet in the barrel for 30 minutes. Bullet held tightly with the Blue Loctite. Will do that with my other favorite loads. I had used the Dremel method with a cut in the neck. What I like about this is I can keep the round for reference if I choose to.
FYI, this video is about getting an Over All Length of the cartridge (OAL) measurement, and is projectile-dependent. *Chamber measurement is a completely different thing altogether* and is most accurately done by using Cerrosafe to make a chamber cast, which gives a perfect “snapshot” of the chamber which can then be measured on all surfaces, hence “chamber measurement.”
Looks a very simple and easy idea. Sorry if I missed it but wouldn’t it be better to push the prepped cartridge in with the bolt and with mag in and port load so bullet doesn’t nose dive and push back,.
You forgot to mention about bumping back the shoulder would change the OAL. Measuring the OAL with the bumped back case is pushed forward and the bullet has to be seated the amount of the bump back besides the amount you desire for accuracy.
Slightly compress the case neck with a Lee Collet Die just enough to feel a slight resistance on the case. use red Loctite. Use a cotton swab and clean up any loctite 1/16 inch into case neck. Place in clean chamber and gently close bolt. When extracted crimp projectile in place so it doesn’t move.
Afternoon. Thank you for the video. My question is my chamber seating depth on my 308 is 73.1mm I have been loading 68.8. Is that sufficient or what would you recommend. Probably stupid question but I'm not a everyday loader. Regards Louis
Wow, nice, I like gadgets and stuff but also simplicity! Thanks for sharing! As a starting reloader I have tons of stuff to buy so this is really helping and fun !
My first try the loctite set before I could chamber the round LOL I also packed the round with a small piece of memory foam so it had a bit of resistance behind the projectile, managed to free the projectile and have another go
Pieter, Perfect timing. I was about to purchase the Hornady tool. Taking your reading with ogive device on the caliper, does that give OAL? Do you recommend that for measuring rather than just the caliper? Thanks for the great tip.
Random tip, maybe mark the bullet with a dotted line lengthwise as another check to make sure the bullet moved in. Say you mark 6 dots visible, and after only 3 or 4 are visible, you know the bullet did in fact move back from the rifling
I use a slightly different method that is even quicker - use a once fired case and put a fine cut in the neck with a Dremel and a cutting wheel. Neck size the case and fractionally seat a projectile in the neck. Chamber the round and than remove and measure. The same case can be used to measure different projectiles. Ps Great work on all your videos mate 🤙
Since with your method you are sacrificing a case anyway, you can also just take a dremel and cut a small slit in the neck down to the shoulder of a re-sized case and it will have enough tension to hold the bullet but not too much keeping it from moving inside the neck.
Love the content as always Piet! I prefer the method you've just demonstrated. Up till now I've used the split case method where using a die grinder split the neck section of a case only and the mouth squeezed in a fraction to gain friction on the proj. Then chamber round using bolt and gently extract to leave proj at the contact point then back off slightly from that. Reusable item then as brl wears.
Easier way than that is to neck size the case , partially seat the prjectile in the case then I put the case in the bolt , mod 98 , then insert the bolt , lock it up & pull it out , job done 👍🏼
That’s how I grew up doing it. Then I’d put that round in the bullet seat die set the die to that length and then just a few though extra seat depth and test the load out. We made some pretty accurate ammo with nothing but a Lee turret press, rcbs charge master, calipers if we were lucky and a chronograph. Since those days we have better equipment but I rarely measure COL I do exactly that method and run with it. It’s pretty easy to build reliable consistent ammo without all the bells and whistles
I guess you really need to resize and trim the case first as the jam pressure will change with neck tension. Also you need to be sure all the pressure is on the bullet and not shared with the case shoulder. For absolute max COL you need a case with no shoulder bump and a very loose bullet so the bullet pushes back into the case until the shoulder is fully seated?
I need help shooting prone. When I am done my neck is sore. I am shooting a Savage 12 FV in 6.5 Creedmoor with a factory stock. I know my position has to be wrong if I am sore after a short time.
If you want to get a even more accurate measure with lock time use a small price of litmus paper on the lead and ge a space correction on bullet and make sure the bullet doesn't pull out a couple thousand because of sticking in chamber. Anti seize on bullet also makes more accurate measure also.
As I understand it, loctite sets in the absence of Oxygen so, it shouldn't set unless it's reasonably confined like in a thread or case neck with bullet in. Whenever I've had loctite leak out, it doesn't seem to set & just wipes off. Yes, it's a royal pain to to measure BTO in some rifles. My Ruger M77 MII is a real pain because of the spring loaded ejector tag which is at the rear of the action & interferes with the darn angle of the Hornady AOLG. I might give this a go I think.
Great video as always.. Greetings from Texas... I am a lefty shooting a right handed rifle in PRS....😂 Any tips.. Other than get a left handed rifle! I have a Savage I'm building but pandemic money is tight!
Hi Pieter, can you do this method by just inserting the round into the chamber and closing the bolt? Or do you have to push it in using a dell stick or something similar? Will closing the bolt and leaving the loctite to dry give you the same reading?
Both of these methods rely on a case that headspaces on the shoulder and they both require that the case have 0 headspace to give an accurate reading. I create a little neck tension, there's lots of simple ways to to that, load a bullet long and then carefully load it into the chamber using the bolt so that it's giving a true measurement.
All I do is use a fire formed case with just enough neck tension to hold the bullet. Chamber the round, close the bolt and hey presto the bullet will stop when it's touching the lands. No fancy gadgets or tricks needed.
Piet how do you go about keeping all your adjustment screws on the buttstock from rattling loose? I'm fairly new to the ACC chassis and have found the cheek riser and length of pull rattling loose after a few stages
I have a multi adjustable Ali stock. I use 'guntight' a loctite product on my screws. It dosnt set brittle , has a slighty rubbery dry texture and since useing, have very little trouble with screws working loose. Hope that helps :)
This is inconclusive if you don't compare the headspace measurement of both cases. In both instances the case is inserted to the shoulder and does not reference the bolt face.
Ok I’ve just tried this. I don’t have any fancy measuring tools. Bullet is rock solid with the lock tight 6.5 creedmoor 147 eld M I get a COL of 2.925 thats 125 thou over 2.800 the manual says. That can’t be right?
The manual tells you where to load for a standardized spec'd round. This method is custom tailored to your specific rifle. You are good to go. If you have a magazine make sure that COL fits in the mag. If not, treat maximum mag length as your "lands" measurement and start seating bullets .003", .006", etc deeper.
Man you should advertise your website in your videos for the stateside guys. I know a lot of people that have been wanting them muzzle brakes. And who knows might make ya rich! If I missed you advertising it, then I guess I’d better pay a bit more attention.
@@IMPACTSHOOTING I have a 5 port raptor on my 28 Nosler. So My set up right now is with that break, ACC chassis, Atlas bipod, 34mm MDT elite scope rings with a proof barrel. That stainless break would look AMAZING on my set up lol. Very cool video bud. Keep them coming
May have to give that a try. Definitely need to be careful not to get loctite in the chamber though. Check out Eric Cortina’s channel if you haven’t already. F class pro shooter and Lapua team member. Really good reloading tips. He has also done several collaborations with other content creators recently. ie Jerry Miculek and Demo Ranch. Might be fun when you make it to the US.
I second that Eric's method for finding jam makes alot or sense. I also remove the firing pin ejector plunger and spring for his process. Its my belief to measure jam from the bolt face rather than off the case shoulder. Same method when determining how much to set the shoulder back when resizing cases. I keep bumping the shoulder back until the bolt shroud/handle will drop with just gravity.
Only thing is..this measurement is @ jam and not just touching the lands. How much is it jammed into the lands...no way of knowing. So when a person says their seating depth is 20th. off of the lands...that would be incorrect.
I am currently 88 years old.
When i was 14 years old a friend of my fathers introduced us to reloading cartridges at his home.
In order to find the over all length of the cartridge in my fathers chamber, he used an empty unprimed case.
He then seated a bullet into the case longer than necessary and seated it with the bolt.
After removing it from the chamber he used a match to smoke the bullet.
He then made die adjustments untill he got the overall length he desired based on the rifling marks on the smoked bullet.
He resmoked the bullet several times while doing so.
I still use that method today for finding the overall cartridge length.
No special tools at all are needed, just the gun, an empty case, a bullet, and some plain old matches.
Right on Bro !!
If you gingerly place the cartridge into the chamber with the Hornady tool, it won’t be as far in as what the bolt will do, thus the bullet will be pushed too far out. If the Hornady tool is substituted by the bolt, it will compress the cartridge slightly more into the chamber and thus push the bullet less into the bore.
The Locktite method has been used for many years because of its superior potential to be more precise with seating and engaging the lands than with the Hornady tool.
Just use the bolt to properly compress the case into the chamber, let the Locktite harden, then extract the cartridge with the bolt; now you have an exact base to ogive template for the bullet chosen.
For someone who just starting reloading and not sure where it ll take me (and you all probably know how expensive starting this hobby can be) this is awesome .. plust this is something you can use no need to have extra tools .. super big thank you !
yeah for me it was about $50 bucks too late. Anybody want buy mine? Still in the package
I check my chambers like you did in the last part, but before i put the case in , i drill the primer pocket out, so when i finish i pour epoxy into the case and the i use them to set may seater die start point up as it is now solid and you cant move the head unless you try realy hard.
Your uncle Ben was a wise man. We all miss him so much.
😂😂😂
I've been using a similar method.I use a collet die to put a slight bit of neck tension that I can still pull the bullet out with my finger. I've also used a dremel to cut a notch in the neck of a sized case to achieve the same thing for cartridges I don't have a neck die for.
I use the same method and it works great. And you also only waste one case if you want to switch/test another bullet.
I like this method a lot. I used to gently place a bullet in a fired case and leave it long. Close the bolt. Measure from the muzzle to the tip of the bullet. Remove the case and bullet and measure to closed bolt from the muzzle again. Subtract the two measurements and get my overall cartridge length to the tip of the bullet when just touching the lands.
A couple points , you can drill a tap a spent case yourself by hand , if you got the proper tools n equipment. Second on this tip I myself use 262 loctite and when setting the round in the chamber , I place it carefully by hand then use the bolt to set it. Then wait 15 minutes for the 262 loctite to setup. Then take the measurement. I save that round as a gauge tool for that particular firearm for reference only. The last point if you are looking for the most awesome bench vise system work your firearms made take a look at Howard’s total vise system. A lot of videos on RUclips about it. Full disclosure here, I’ve purchased his whole system, it’s totally awesome and vary heavy duty. He is located in Lolo Montana. His workmanship on his products are A+. He makes everything himself right here in the USA. It’s all steel components, and the knobs are highest quality and they are great people to deal with. I highly recommend him and I’m totally pleased with my purchase and you will to.
Hi Pete
Another way of chamber measurement is to use a fired case and partially neck size the cartridge case and then using you press insert the head but not seat it to the full depth; use a candle and then blacken the head; what you want to see is the land marks on the head; place the round in the chamber gently and using the bolt to push the head home and further into the cartridge case
Gently unlatch the bolt and extract the cartridge; you can now measure the overall length walla complete
Candle idea is genius!
I love this method. My grandfather taught it to me "a few years ago" back in roughly 1964 when he started me reloading my ,22 Hornet at 12 years old. I've used the "Soot Trick" for over nearly 60 years now and never gone wrong with it. That grand old man likey forgot more about the fine arts to reloading than he ever taught me but blessed me with a love of our 2nd Amendment and all things firearms & reloading that carried through me to both my children and then to 3 of my 5 grandsons so far with the 2 youngest now both almost 12, chomping at the bit to begin reloading without PaPa over their shoulders.
Soot method s the way I was taught 25 years ago.
Great tip! I’ll have to try it. I’ve also taken a neck sized case and cut a couple of longitudinal slits with a dremel, and that holds the bullet but allows it to push back against the lands into the case. That definitely does nuke the case though where this will still save your fired case.
I have to say that 7 mm 300 win mag is impressive! 195 grains at 3000 FPS!? I’m coming up with a huge 3896 foot lbs for that guy, a 1 mile rifle there! Thanks for sharing.
Have used this method a few times. Usually if you try a few cases you can find one that is snug enough to hold the projectile without any lock tight. Also have just used closing the bolt to set the length instead of pushing it with something. Love all the content you post. From 🇨🇦
I hope you remember to pull out the firing pin and extractor before you push the bolt in and lock it up .
@@conservativesniperhunter7439 I'm completely new to this and have heard that before but wouldn't that give you a more true result? Why wouldn't the matching bolt and acting together with the bolt closed not be the most true result?
@@JacobTerherst Many reloaders say that with extractors , firing pin and the ejector in the bolt you won’t get a precise measurement.
@@mrdinme.4768 This is the recommended way to do it . Many gunsmiths do it this way .
I'm certain somebody has asked during the last year and a half this video has been out, but why not just run the bolt into battery after using the loctite?
I was thinking the same thing. I use this method to measure the distance to the lands and that's what I do.
@@michaelhill6451me too
White vinegar can be used to get loctite off of the work pieces.
You don't need lock tight. Resize your casing. insert projectile. slightly bump projectile into casing. Insert cartridge into rifle. close bolt. open bolt. take measurement.
The method I was taught 30 some years ago.
Awesome thanks. i have been doing it for a while now as a friend showed me the trick, it improved the accuracy on every rifle i have ever used it on. without using special tools.
Nice primer flex in the background. You know here in the states right now you can put a pinch of them into a little plastic baggie and sell them on the street for $100 a pop...
It is ridiculous. I can't wait til everything goes back to normal.
I have a source but I'm paying $0.16 per large rifle primer. I have a few thousand luckily right now. Mostly all for .270 win and .243
Great tip Pieter. Many shooters do not understand that there could be anything up to
0.010 or more difference between the Hornady Modified case and their fire formed cases fired in their chamber . Yes you can have your fired cases drill and tapped to fit onto the Hornady tool and that’s fine but the method you just showed us is super quick and easy and works just as well .
Awesome trick Piet!
That is so cool, I have two rem 700 BDLs, 270 and 308, this will make loading for them so much more precise.
Instead of loctite, use a fired, neck sized case, cut an "X" across the mouth of the case to create 4 "petals." Use pliers if needed to slightly bend the 4 petals created from the X cut such that a bullet is snug, but still able to slide. Using a fine tip pen, make a mark around the top edge of a petal and on the bullet (this is just a way to confirm the bullet actually moves), then gently chamber this round, then gently extract it. Take your measurement. Repeat a couple times to ensure consistency.
Using the cut neck, you can now use that same casing every time you try a different bullet and record your measurement, no need to mess with loctite or sacrificing a case for every different bullet you want to measure. Also, it's better to actually chamber the dummy round with the bolt and not just push it in until it stops because in actual use, that's how your rounds are going to be used. You'll get a better measurement of how the round will actually sit in the chamber.
Piet. I tried the method and it worked great. I kept the case and bullet in the barrel for 30 minutes. Bullet held tightly with the Blue Loctite. Will do that with my other favorite loads. I had used the Dremel method with a cut in the neck. What I like about this is I can keep the round for reference if I choose to.
FYI, this video is about getting an Over All Length of the cartridge (OAL) measurement, and is projectile-dependent. *Chamber measurement is a completely different thing altogether* and is most accurately done by using Cerrosafe to make a chamber cast, which gives a perfect “snapshot” of the chamber which can then be measured on all surfaces, hence “chamber measurement.”
Looks a very simple and easy idea. Sorry if I missed it but wouldn’t it be better to push the prepped cartridge in with the bolt and with mag in and port load so bullet doesn’t nose dive and push back,.
Matt is awesome he is full of tricks!!!
And jokes, I got jokes too
I'm new to the reloading game... or rather will be when materials become available here in the states. I will definitely remember this tip. Cheers!
You forgot to mention about bumping back the shoulder would change the OAL. Measuring the OAL with the bumped back case is pushed forward and the bullet has to be seated the amount of the bump back besides the amount you desire for accuracy.
I have a question. Do I assume you didn’t have to pull the firing pin and extractor out as it didn’t put any pressure on the bolt
would it been better to use the bolt to seat the test round ?
Slightly compress the case neck with a Lee Collet Die just enough to feel a slight resistance on the case. use red Loctite. Use a cotton swab and clean up any loctite 1/16 inch into case neck. Place in clean chamber and gently close bolt. When extracted crimp projectile in place so it doesn’t move.
As a new reloader, that just saved me a tool I don't need. Thanks for sharing.
Afternoon. Thank you for the video.
My question is my chamber seating depth on my 308 is 73.1mm I have been loading 68.8. Is that sufficient or what would you recommend.
Probably stupid question but I'm not a everyday loader.
Regards
Louis
Wouldn't it make more sense to use the bolt to seat the cartridge? Since that's what's going to be seating the cartridge when in use
Wow, nice, I like gadgets and stuff but also simplicity! Thanks for sharing!
As a starting reloader I have tons of stuff to buy so this is really helping and fun !
Awesome tip!! Making some for all my rifle calibers! Thanks!
Saw this on ultimate reloader...thought I'd drop by and let you know that it worked perfectly. Great tip!
Awesome, thank you!
My first try the loctite set before I could chamber the round LOL I also packed the round with a small piece of memory foam so it had a bit of resistance behind the projectile, managed to free the projectile and have another go
Pieter,
Perfect timing. I was about to purchase the Hornady tool. Taking your reading with ogive device on the caliper, does that give OAL? Do you recommend that for measuring rather than just the caliper?
Thanks for the great tip.
that quick detach reload , vice/ press is a must have
Great work Pete!
You really should be wearing a cape if you’re going to show secrets like this.
The Batman of SA!
Random tip, maybe mark the bullet with a dotted line lengthwise as another check to make sure the bullet moved in. Say you mark 6 dots visible, and after only 3 or 4 are visible, you know the bullet did in fact move back from the rifling
I use a slightly different method that is even quicker - use a once fired case and put a fine cut in the neck with a Dremel and a cutting wheel. Neck size the case and fractionally seat a projectile in the neck. Chamber the round and than remove and measure. The same case can be used to measure different projectiles.
Ps
Great work on all your videos mate 🤙
Was looking for that comment! I'm doing the same, but neck sizing first and then cut.
Since with your method you are sacrificing a case anyway, you can also just take a dremel and cut a small slit in the neck down to the shoulder of a re-sized case and it will have enough tension to hold the bullet but not too much keeping it from moving inside the neck.
Wow, love that method. going to give it a try
Super cool! Sit nou juis met my geweer wat ek moet meet maar het nie die tools nie! Raai wat doen ek die naweek? 😃😃😃💪🏼💪🏼
Great idea. I have been reloading over 1/2 a century. Always something new to learn
Love the content as always Piet! I prefer the method you've just demonstrated. Up till now I've used the split case method where using a die grinder split the neck section of a case only and the mouth squeezed in a fraction to gain friction on the proj. Then chamber round using bolt and gently extract to leave proj at the contact point then back off slightly from that. Reusable item then as brl wears.
I do exact same way ,different bullets same case ,different full jams,for each bullet. But I just use triangle file to split case neck.
Always learning something from you. Thanks Piet!
Hi Pieter, where can I find that Impact Shooting Mount? I can find it on your website. Nor in the description. Thanx for great content and tips!
Remove the ejector from your bolt install to install the case. Also use a Q tip to apply the lock tight
Easier way than that is to neck size the case , partially seat the prjectile in the case then I put the case in the bolt , mod 98 , then insert the bolt , lock it up & pull it out , job done 👍🏼
Do you buy the MDT mags without binder plate to fit your bullets?
That’s how I grew up doing it. Then I’d put that round in the bullet seat die set the die to that length and then just a few though extra seat depth and test the load out. We made some pretty accurate ammo with nothing but a Lee turret press, rcbs charge master, calipers if we were lucky and a chronograph. Since those days we have better equipment but I rarely measure COL I do exactly that method and run with it. It’s pretty easy to build reliable consistent ammo without all the bells and whistles
Hay mate can you do a video on the headspace on a pump action .308. Thanks
I guess you really need to resize and trim the case first as the jam pressure will change with neck tension. Also you need to be sure all the pressure is on the bullet and not shared with the case shoulder. For absolute max COL you need a case with no shoulder bump and a very loose bullet so the bullet pushes back into the case until the shoulder is fully seated?
Could this method be used for pistol ammunition aswell?
Love die vid Piet!! Jou setup en die hemde is awesome! Daai muzzle break is dope!
I need help shooting prone. When I am done my neck is sore. I am shooting a Savage 12 FV in 6.5 Creedmoor with a factory stock. I know my position has to be wrong if I am sore after a short time.
Great video Piet, wish I had of seen this before the last weekend, just bought the the tools lol. 👍🍻🇨🇦
Im lost. This measures ogive to breechface, how do I measure headspace (ie shoulder datum to breechface) or do we only care about the freebore?
If you want to get a even more accurate measure with lock time use a small price of litmus paper on the lead and ge a space correction on bullet and make sure the bullet doesn't pull out a couple thousand because of sticking in chamber. Anti seize on bullet also makes more accurate measure also.
As I understand it, loctite sets in the absence of Oxygen so, it shouldn't set unless it's reasonably confined like in a thread or case neck with bullet in.
Whenever I've had loctite leak out, it doesn't seem to set & just wipes off.
Yes, it's a royal pain to to measure BTO in some rifles. My Ruger M77 MII is a real pain because of the spring loaded ejector tag which is at the rear of the action & interferes with the darn angle of the Hornady AOLG.
I might give this a go I think.
I’ve run 195gn Berger in a 7 rem mag at 3000 fps. Why use a 300 case to do the same thing?
Great video as always.. Greetings from Texas... I am a lefty shooting a right handed rifle in PRS....😂 Any tips.. Other than get a left handed rifle! I have a Savage I'm building but pandemic money is tight!
Hi Pieter, can you do this method by just inserting the round into the chamber and closing the bolt?
Or do you have to push it in using a dell stick or something similar?
Will closing the bolt and leaving the loctite to dry give you the same reading?
??
YES, you can use the bolt to chamber the round... check out " Ultimate Reloader" Gavin has a guest shooter showing how it's done...
Could you push the case in with your bolt and then let it set like that
Piet, could you have just used the bolt to seat the bullet instead of pushing it with the rod?
Both of these methods rely on a case that headspaces on the shoulder and they both require that the case have 0 headspace to give an accurate reading.
I create a little neck tension, there's lots of simple ways to to that, load a bullet long and then carefully load it into the chamber using the bolt so that it's giving a true measurement.
the case can go in further..... use the bolt to drive it home.
If you make "SUPER COOL" t-shirts, I'll buy one.
Start at 7:00.
Super super cool
All I do is use a fire formed case with just enough neck tension to hold the bullet. Chamber the round, close the bolt and hey presto the bullet will stop when it's touching the lands. No fancy gadgets or tricks needed.
Piet how do you go about keeping all your adjustment screws on the buttstock from rattling loose? I'm fairly new to the ACC chassis and have found the cheek riser and length of pull rattling loose after a few stages
I have a multi adjustable Ali stock. I use 'guntight' a loctite product on my screws. It dosnt set brittle , has a slighty rubbery dry texture and since useing, have very little trouble with screws working loose. Hope that helps :)
any reason you would not close the bolt on the round?
I've seen it done recently and they used red loctite and inserted it into the chamber with the bolt.
A little heat from a torch will melt the locktite, making extraction easy.
It sure is easier than chamber casts and manual measurements!
This is inconclusive if you don't compare the headspace measurement of both cases. In both instances the case is inserted to the shoulder and does not reference the bolt face.
Ok I’ve just tried this. I don’t have any fancy measuring tools. Bullet is rock solid with the lock tight 6.5 creedmoor 147 eld M I get a COL of 2.925 thats 125 thou over 2.800 the manual says. That can’t be right?
The manual tells you where to load for a standardized spec'd round. This method is custom tailored to your specific rifle. You are good to go. If you have a magazine make sure that COL fits in the mag. If not, treat maximum mag length as your "lands" measurement and start seating bullets .003", .006", etc deeper.
I'm going to flyover and grab those primers
cheers, dankie vir die info. jy spaar my R800.
Thanks for sharing this video👍🏻
I have to watch this again because I have no idea what he just did.
Hello Pieter ek het 1 maand Trug bigin;ek is nou 13 jaar oud en skiet met ń peletgun maar skiet ook met my friend
Se pa met groot guns
That’s a great idea thanks
Saved a lot of shooters $40.
Thanks :-)
Is there any place online I can go and purchase one of those muzzle brakes? I'm in the United states.
www.impactproshopusa.net
Mounts for the vise look very similar to Inline Fabrication.
11:21 You can just use a kinetic bullet puller to get it out if it doesn't want to come.
Man you should advertise your website in your videos for the stateside guys. I know a lot of people that have been wanting them muzzle brakes. And who knows might make ya rich! If I missed you advertising it, then I guess I’d better pay a bit more attention.
www.impactproshopusa.net
You've already got the Hornady tool, so why mess with the locktite ? You're still using the Hornady system to measure it.
Holy crap, that brake is B E A UTIFUL...
love the shirt
What was the lenght
Love it👍
Oh man I need that break in my life.... Please let us know when we can order in the states bro.
Howdy, check out www.impactproshopusa.net
@@IMPACTSHOOTING I have a 5 port raptor on my 28 Nosler. So My set up right now is with that break, ACC chassis, Atlas bipod, 34mm MDT elite scope rings with a proof barrel. That stainless break would look AMAZING on my set up lol. Very cool video bud. Keep them coming
@@IMPACTSHOOTING oh my lord an “Impact Shooting” website stateside! You made my panties moist big guy!
May have to give that a try. Definitely need to be careful not to get loctite in the chamber though.
Check out Eric Cortina’s channel if you haven’t already. F class pro shooter and Lapua team member. Really good reloading tips. He has also done several collaborations with other content creators recently. ie Jerry Miculek and Demo Ranch. Might be fun when you make it to the US.
Thanks man,
Eric and I have been chatting recently :-)
Eric can also build you a pretty awesome house
I second that Eric's method for finding jam makes alot or sense. I also remove the firing pin ejector plunger and spring for his process. Its my belief to measure jam from the bolt face rather than off the case shoulder. Same method when determining how much to set the shoulder back when resizing cases. I keep bumping the shoulder back until the bolt shroud/handle will drop with just gravity.
@@kirkmartin2223 you mean barndo. 😀
Problem: you gauged ogive to shoulder, but you measured ogive to base. For this to be correct, head space has to be 0.0000. Big hope!
a light crimp will do the same thing, without the locktite.
Nice Pieter. Ek het sopas een van daai Hornady goed gekoop. 😫
Only thing is..this measurement is @ jam and not just touching the lands. How much is it jammed into the lands...no way of knowing. So when a person says their seating depth is 20th. off of the lands...that would be incorrect.