Reloading tools you need - Whats missing from your reloading kit
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- Опубликовано: 6 дек 2019
- In this video we cover necessary tools that don't typically come in your reloading kit that you may need to start reloading. We evaluate options for dies, calipers, brass trimmers, scale check weights, brass cleaning methods, case lube, as well as some other options to help make you a successful reloader.
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Dies to consider:
Forster FL die:
amzn.to/2JY0Nyr
Hornady Custom Die Set:
amzn.to/2Y3Qga0
Hornady Match Die Set:
amzn.to/2LAUyUm
Lee Die set:
amzn.to/2Y7hFrv
Redding Neck Die:
amzn.to/2SuB8RY
Hornady Microjust Seating Stem: amzn.to/2YrkYeS
Calipers:
Hornady calipers: amzn.to/2Pm8IbE
iGaging Digital Electronic Caliper: amzn.to/33ZSni6
Mitutoyo Absolute Scale Digital Caliper: amzn.to/2qu90Vl
Brass cleaning equipment:
Frankford Rotary Tumbler Large: amzn.to/2OYTydh
Frankford Rotary Tumbler Small: amzn.to/38gMdxr
Hornady Ultrasonic: amzn.to/2sNAVAn
Scale check weights:
Lyman Reloading Scale Weight Check Set: amzn.to/2YxcdA7
Lyman basic Check Weight Set: amzn.to/38gKNmB
Case lube:
Redding case lube: amzn.to/2RrV9dc
Stuck case remover:
RCBS stuck case remover: amzn.to/33SNR4Y
Universal shell holders:
Lee shell holder set: amzn.to/2PrcAZ3
Funnel set:
Lyman Pro Powder Funnel System: amzn.to/38ikagY
Powder trickler:
Lyman Powder Trickler: amzn.to/2Yrkwxd
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One day back in the stone age, I showed up at my LGS to buy more Ammo. "How many did you shoot today?" he asked. "450 rounds" I replied. "Yep - time for you to learn how to reload" he said. An RCBS kit was placed into my truck... "We close at 6PM" he remarked, as I drove off with a glint in my eye...
He knew that I would be returning at least THREE more times that day, before I even got 1 completed round...
The journey to getting that first round is so much fun and quite the journey.
I'm at this point at the moment, would it be better to get only the press and buy everything else on the side or the RCBS kit ?
@@justinwolden399 yeah, the feeling when the first shot is fired and you still have your eyes and fingers left..
@@jmkhenka some are lucky enough to even hit the target on top of keeping fingers & toes
@patrickrafferty9156 I know I'm 2 ears late but just FYI to the others that may read this, I would not buy a kit anymore unless someone offers a build your own kit.
I used to load .45 acp as nobody offered a good carry round at the time but hornady had some reload bullets for hunting (same as their now critical defense minus poly tip). A lee die kit is adequate for that. If you're reloading for precision/bolt guns after getting in my bouts with 6.5 creed, I can say I wish I done more research before I bought the lee 4pc kit for that. Will it load to specs I want? Yes. Do I have to measure a lot more than should while loading? Heck yes. With better dies you'll get more consistent specs and eliminate checking the specs for each bullet seated in particular when loading to ogive and bullet jump. Bushing neck dies are also better and more concentric than the one in the lee die kit. So far with loading 10rnds for finding that magic load I really really wish I had bought other dies particularly. I would also highly recommend a motorized unit for chamfering/deburring the neck and primer pocket prep as after 15rnds my 33yo hands feel like I have severe arthritis and prepping 60 cases by hand is a nightmare.
Bottom line, really look at what you are after and watch a bunch of videos and read the forums out there before going gungho buying stuff as not to regret it later.
Great advice to get a stuck case remover BEFORE you begin reloading.
You can remove stuck cases from Lee sizing dies with a couple wrenches and a hammer. One reason I like Lee dies.
I've had good luck with freezing the dies to get the case out
use Lanolin and alcohol and you won't have stuck cases.
Calipers and a manual were the first things I bought. Next was the Lee handloading kit. Time to step up and these videos are a priceless resource for someone like me. Thank you so much for the time and effort you have put into passing on your knowledge and experience.
Several sets of calipers is a great idea. Really good ones for precision case measurements etc. You don't want to bang them around all the time so a couple inexpensive sets serve well for measuring bullet diameters etc. Make sure at least one set of calipers reads out at least 3 digits after the decimal. I also keep a micrometer handy by my benches.
Brake cleaner spray is a necessity too. You need it to do an initial cleaning on dies, metal powder measure rotors, and seating dies, especially if you load lubed cast bullets.
A few important things: Hand cleaner. Brass is dirty, primers can be contaminated with heavy metals, lead bullets leave residue. I like using powdered Boraxo hand soap to clean myself up after reloading and shooting. It is easy on the skin but digs deep getting grease, oil, soot, etc off your hands. Eye protection. At some point in your reloading experience something is going to ping off the press, a primer might detonate when you try to force it into a crimped primer pocket. You need to protect your eyes. If you wear glasses they should be safety rated, otherwise wear a large safety glasses over them or consider getting bifocal safety glasses with readers built in.
Case lube made from lanolin and alcohol is inexpensive and will do tens of thousands of cases with just a 12 ounce bottle. I use old cigar boxes and stuff them half full with brass. A couple squirts of shaken lube, close the lid and shake the box around, wait for the alcohol to evaporate and the cases are lubed. The lube will last a long time on the cases so if you don't finish sizing them you don't have to lube them again the next day or a week later. They're still lubed and ready to hit the dies. I've let cases sit in the cigar boxes for a few weeks and never had to lube them again. After sizing, or loading, I tumble them in walnut media to remove the lube.
One more tip; Just because something is more expensive doesn't mean it is the best or any better than a lower priced item. People have a lot of brand loyalty...more like snobbery... with reloading gear. Some of it is worth the extra money but a lot of it isn't. That is 40 + years of reloading experience talking. I use mostly Lee dies, I've reloaded pistol cases hundreds of times without them failing and I've seen expensive aftermarket new brass fail after 1 firing. You don't need fancy brass cleaning media. Lizard litter (crushed walnut shell) from the pet store is cheap. A 20 lb bag will last years. I have my tumblers running a few hours almost every day. I get 9 months minimum out of one tumbler bowl of media.
One inexpensive component that I would strongly recommend is a universal decapping die.
If you want to eliminate dirt from your brass going up into your sizer die, you need to deprime, then tumble, before that operation.
I always deprime, tumble, resize, prime, charge, seat, and (if loading for semiauto, tubular magazine rifle, or handgun) crimp, in that order.
Good point
That die is an absolute must. I deprime, clean the pockets, then wash the brass in a Mason jar with either dish soap and vinegar or automobile car wash and vinegar (lemon juice, anything to lower the pH of the solution to slightly acidic) A Mason jar and a movie and the brass comes out spic and span clean and shiny. You new guys, get the Mason jar and use that money for something more essential. Get that tumbler later. It's NOT a priority.
My grandfather was a machinist. The Harbor Freight calipers match his professional calipers every time. Why trash Lee dies?
Your advice to clean cases before reloading is spot on. Like you, I like the Lee case trimmer/gages. Over all, good practical advice. Thanks!
Frankford Arsenal is the trickler I would recommend. It's a little taller but yet heavy enough to not tip over. Just my opinion though like you said it's like buying a car. Buy whatever fits your personal needs best. I do love Lyman products I love their chamfering and deburring Tool and I'm thinking about getting one of those Lyman precision funnel sets. Great video and awesome content and that's why I keep coming back for more! 👊😎🇺🇸
LakeViewOutdoors I have an RCBS trickler I got about 10 years ago that’s pretty good. I think it is the same one they still sell now. It has an extension piece of tube you can add for reaching out further if you need. I also bought the optional heavy base for it to raise the height and it is adjustable by screwing it out to raise it even higher. There is iron in the middle to weigh it down. I don’t need the base all the time, but it is nice to have when I do.
Awesome video. Great information, concise delivery without "uh's", "errrr's", or personal anecdotes. Very helpful for my new hobby. Thanks!
Love the mopar sign I have the exact same one in my reloading room
MITUTOYO IS ONE OF THE BEST CALIPERS OUT THERE.
I like Lee dies, especially after working over the sizing die and pistol flaring funnels with Flitz metal polish. I should also point out that I have polished a Redding .223 die that improved the look of sized cases and reduced the effort to size a case.
Did you use a Dremel with the buffing wheel?
@@ranger5309 no, I used a dowel rod with a lengthwise slit to hold patches, chucked in a drill motor.
Which would be a Dremel on steroids @@o2wow
having now watched 2 of your video's I have to say I'm enjoying them. This one you did focus a bit more on specific brands but I dont' feel you overly favored one over the other. Clear Cut information and your advise on what to look for what tools to buy and consider. Thanks
Good information I only reload for the 45/70 and 44
I inherited a set of Browne and Sharp calipers from my Pap when he passed always Enjoy using them something he used as a machinist
This is a great video! Just what I was looking for. Thank you so much 😊!
Your welcome!
same here, an aging rookie at this game, so I am going over this with a fine tooth comb.
I'm new to reloading, and this video is very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video man. I hate voice over but you make it smooth. I could listen all day.
Friend of mine decided to reload his own ammo for his collection. He has some older and exotic weapons that he has collected over the years. To help him we have a friend who is
a reloader and worked in the Ammo industry for many years plus in the Military also. He
went out knowing it might be expensive! Mild understatement. But he proceeded and
and with our friend he started out with a 30.30. Got a shock when as you mentioned he had
to purchase a lot of extra tools that were not included in his "Complete" reloading kit. For the basic purchase he invested around $900 to set up. I do not know how much he actually spend but his Wife was not a Happy Camper until he bought her a rifle to enjoy also. He just bought a "Dillon" auto loader? to reload on an assembly line set up? Not familiar with all he is saying but sounds like fun for him.
...i came to SEE and hear what it is i need to get started. at least i heard it. Good video and thank you for making and sharing
I bought cheap Frankfurt Arsenal digital calipers on sale to start out years ago. They had an accident you could say and ended up bent and in pieces, the electronics too. So, I upgraded to an expensive set of Mitutoyo. They are excellent and I don’t regret buying them.
But afterwards , I went back to the FA calipers to play with them before I threw them out. Funny enough, I got them back together but had extra pieces I couldn’t figure out where they went. To this day they still work and are pretty accurate comparing them to the Mitutoyo’s. The are a little sticky and have some play but are always with .001 of the Mitutoyos but I would never trust them at this point.
I never like to buy the cheapest stuff for reloading but knowing what I do now I would probably buy a nice set of mid grade/priced calipers to start and hopefully to last as long as needed.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge....
That Lyman Brass Smith is amazing. I've watched that rascal drop one piece of powder at at a time. Also, case trimmer and funnel manufacturers must never have heard of us 204 Ruger folks. Not to mention the .17's. Outstanding, informative video. Hopefully it'll go a long way to leading people down the right path.
Handgun dies: Lyman because of the M-Die expander (better for flat based bullets). Add a Redding profile crimp die for roll crimps
Rifle dies: Forster - the seater has a spring loaded simulation of your chamber inside the die that seats bullets very well centered
Lyman check weights: you can get within 0.5 grains of your target weight. I use them every time I start using a scale
Case gauge: maybe not essential, but a Wilson or Sheridan case gauge makes checking bottle necked rifle cases for headspace dimensions and overall length.
Notebook: seriously take detailed notes for each cartridge and possibly even for each firearm.
Sinclair loading blocks: a luxury but they are heavy and fit cases so much better than the generic loading blocks.
I’m experienced in pistol reloading but never loaded rifle. I’d like to see a video loading a cartridge start to finish, case trimming, etc. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for you erudite and fluid explanations! I just purchased a Dillon 550 c progressive reloading kit primarily because I've had a nearly impossible time finding ammo for my 45 revolver. I see that you didn't mention anything from Dillon so I hope I have not errored. I guess I'll find out shortly what things on your list that I will have to have before loading/reloading begins. I have so much to learn because I'm completely new to this.
I’ve been reloading on my Dillon 550 for 27 yrs. It’s beast. I’ve recently in the past 5 yrs just started using it for rifle rounds only. Reason is cause I’m doin all pistol rounds on my 650 Dillon. That’s all I’ve used or wanted. All my equipment is from Dillon. When I started reloading I used them and never bought anything else. They are the best in the business.
I have used a 550 for 20 years. Great tool! Should serve you well!
Dillon’s warranty is the best on the market, bar none. You won’t go wrong with your Dillon. I’ve been reloading for decades btw.
Excellent presentation
Funny you mention Christmas in this video and im watching it today! Merry Christmas!
As fast as I go through calipers. I keep a set of Harbor freight around as a backup. Bought a pair last time I was at home they were still in a plastic tote that I purchased the same day. The plastic tote was in the bed of the truck. No problem the truck is in the car port.
Except the bed was hanging out.
Got up the next morning the entire tote was full of water. After a day or so of drying I figured hey let's try these calipers out. They actually work
very helpful, thank you!
I'd go with a press mounted bullet puller before a stuck case remover, and I'd add a Forster or Lyman dry neck lube kit.
I've got and used lots of RCBS dies. I think they are very good
you give the most uneducated man confidence. 🤘🏼 you have a great way of Explaining things and you don’t beat around the bush.
Hi Chad, I hope you find value in the content.
@@BoltActionReloading i definitely do in all the videos
mitutoyo absolute digimatic calipers is where its at my friend. A little spendy, but well worth it..
Y’all listen up this guy is spot on! I could have saved thousands over the years had he been around when I started (before the internet)👴. Heed his advice you’ll be shooting small groups in a much shorter learning curve= less money spent.
Solid information for us rookies. I’m subscribing and keep up the good work. Cheers 🍻
IMHO, the Redding case trimmer is the very best, because it rotates the brass against a fixed cutter, making sure for a perfectly square cut, having said that, it is not the easiest to use, and not the cheapest, the price has gone way up, but to eliminate one variable, I think it’s worth it
Wish my bench was this uncluttered
Yeah. Not convinced that’s a real reloading bench…
My Imperial Sizing Die Wax is not green like yours. It’s basically clear. I guess Redding put coloring in it to make it their own “Redding Green”. I noticed the cover it more “Redding” also. LOL. Great stuff!!
Where were you when I started!!!
Great video, true I bought and sold lots of equipment while figuring out the best of everything. By far my favorite is the Frankford arsenal wet tumbler. RCBS dies and a variety of other things.
I reload for every firearm I own but have stopped loading for semi-auto handguns just because I don't like to chase the brass. I do however have everything in case I intend to resume loading for them. I don't much care for the headspacing on the front edge of the case for rimless handgun rounds. A 45 auto for instance can have feed problems if the firearm does not like the shape of your chosen bullet. Crimping these rounds is a delicate operation.
A case gage is very important for checking proper headspace after full length resizing, In my opinion. This way you know the rounds will proper chamber.
They can be usefull, but honestly unless you are total smuck, you can just chamber the cases in your rifle and close the bolt. Headspace is just a problem if you dont bother checking fired brass and resize accordingly (or at all). Atleast for bolt actions, semis i dont have experience with.
@@jmkhenka for sure... I only check with a Caliper and gauge to see if I need to bump the shoulder.
My sizing die never squeezes the brass enough for them to fit in the size die, but they shoot fine reload after reload.
Great video
Well I use lanolin and isopropyl alcohol mix for my case sizing. There is no other option when doing thousands of rounds on progressive press like Dillon. Just put some 500 .223 cases into plastic bag, spray some lanolin mix into the bag, shake and mix for a while, throw cases into case feeder and in one hour you have 2000 cases sized and deprimed.
AFAIK it works very well for larger calibers and single stage reloading too and you don't have to put shit on your hands and grabbing each case multiple times like crazy.
I have found a trickler slows my loading down. All my rifle rounds are weighted so I just use one brass full of powder to trickle from and then load that brass last after ascertaining it is empty.
The industry standard for case lube is a pad. Use a lube that is a water base which will not damage powder of primer if some happens to be left in the case.
Great video!!! Ammo shortage aside, you can easily purchase commercial ammo that provides sub-MOA reliable results. It's true that you can get better results from hand loaded, tuned-to-your-rifle ammo, but as an example, that might move you from 0.36MOA with 'Commercial' to 0.25MOA with 'Custom' (real-world experience). Also, there won't be $$$ savings from hand loading if you include the cost of all the equipment until you've loaded and shot perhaps thousands of rounds. So it would be interesting to see a video on the full list of equipment you need to hand load without a focus on $ savings. As you say, "Buy once, Cry once". If you bring your expertise in knowing what's really needed to creating that complete list, without a focus on finding the cheapest, it would be very interesting. Thanks again for your great video.
@CalamityEnsues So get into it now. There doesn't seem to be a shortage in supplies if you go to Midway or Mid-South Shooters Supply, but I don't reload so I may be wrong. If you put drop $1200-$4000 on all the finest equipment, you will be up and running in no time.
Bullet puller, hammer type, I’ve needed it more than stuck case remover, I’ve never had stuck case, but I’ve had questionable powder charge, and had to remeasure
Like the Mopar Sign
Just want to load 223 because it's what I burn through. I have boxes of rounds because I buy a new box every hunting season and don't shoot hunting rifles but once or twice to make sure I'm sighted.
I dry tumble outside using treated crushed walnut media, works for me.
I honestly love lee ultimate die set. Best value in the business. I’ve actually quit using Redding. I try the ultimate die set first. I haven’t had a need to use Redding anymore. Components and brass prep is key imo. Skill and a rifle that is capable is huge as well.
Chamfer and Debur tools.
you can tumble again after trimming and skip the tool if you're short on cash
A great 'nice to have' upgrade is a set of certified laboratory digital scales. They are not inexpensive but they are much easier on my 70 year old eyes and balls-on accurate. I load for accuracy and weigh each charge. They are far more reliable, stable, and consistent than any of the digital scales sold for reloading. I use a thing available from a drugstore called a 'pimple-popper' to adjust charges. Sooo easy to pickup one or two grains of Varget or even Benchmark. You just have to plug the end of the spoon at each end with a drop of crazy glue. Overall, I can dispense, weigh, adjust, and load a charge faster than the motorized digital powder throwers (two) I have had.
Nice video
wow ... takes a long time to finish after making your point!!!!!!
10:50 my hornaday ultrasonic was nice for about 3 uses before it rusted through from below and began to blister the chrome plating and leak all over my counter. Could not warrantee it due to having it over a year despite its lack of use
A head space gauge is also needed.
To get rid of static that makes your grains stick to the funnel, all you have to do is simply run your finger over all the inner surface and it'll remove the static charge. No drier sheet needed.
I'm thinking of getting a single stage press to reload 7.62x25. I've heard it's super challenging though...
So far I have only had a problem on full lenth sizing. But I do use a 9 mm die after I neck size the cases. 90 grain bullets.
I have reloaded for 55 years and only tumbled brass one or two times when I first started. Shiny brass does not load better or shoot better than tarnished brass. I don't throw my brass into the mud so I don't have to clean dirt from it.
If that's how you want to go about it, then more power to you. I, personally, take pride in my craft, and while I might receive that much from getting my brass looking like new, it's just the presentation of pride in your work and not cutting any corners. I treat my brass very well. However, shooting suppressed does dirty my brass more than firing unsuppressed, so it's also unavoidable for some.
I dry tumble mine for an hour and it comes out clean. But I occasionally drop stuff in the mud, I shoot at lots of different ranges with different accommodations
Get a kit with a good manual scale. Get a good micrometer powder measure.. Get a good electric micrometer from $20-100 they all work well... Get any tumbler you can get a good price on... and Flitz tumbler polish.. a little goes a long way. Get Some Dillon or such case lube for rifle cases. Get a LEE zip trim for $25 that is more accurate than my $200 trimmers and easier to use... Get 'M' dies if you use cast bullets for handguns. Get a LEE factory crimp die and a cheap lee press next to your real press for it if you load pistol calibers (forth step) Get a LEE bench prime... get two or three. the hardest thing I have found newbies to do is 'feel' the primer seat. not a problem with the bench prime. Prime 300 cases in 20 minutes with no worries. There.. I just saved you a couple of grand that I wasted money on over the years.
I've got to start reloading, gp11 is expensive
I'm curious about what powder measurer that you use. I couldn't find any reviews on those on your sight but respect your opinion. I have the Hornady bench powder measurer. I also have a Frankford Arsenal digital scale and trickler. My friends keep trying to get me to buy an auto reloader, but after what I've seen online they don't seem to be worth the hassle. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
The Mopar sign is an automatic sub! Mopars and guns...does it get any better?
For schmitts and giggles I tried wet tumbling with a pasta sauce jar and hot soapy water. Shine hasn't dulled in a few months now on 9mm brass sitting in a tupperware container with no lid. Also Anytime Tools has some nice calipers on Amazon for inexpensive.
Besides calipers, get a gauge block. That way if your caliper goes south you know it. ten bucks well spent.
For the big thick case of a 338LM, the Lee literally won't cut it. I had to use a WFT or eBay WCT with a replaced center cutter.
I have two scales. one is the RCBS beam scale that came with my kit in 1974.. the other is a LEE they both show the exact same values. My buddies electronic scale? not so much. but.. my micrometer powder measures from both RCBS and Redding? LOl within 2 tenths of a grain over say 50 loads? good enough for me.
I got into reloading because I couldn’t find ammo for my 30-30 but man it didn’t stop there , never imagined I’d be so into reloading , I think if I could go back in time I’d run far far away from reloading I was lied to it does not save me money 😂
True, but, the added notch of self-sufficiency/security is worth every penny.
I wish we could buy a kit that actually has everything we need! Things like reloading tray and powder trickler should be standard not extras
Never had enough luck with H dies. Redding and Forster >
When I started I kept breaking my primer decapping pins due to not knowing the brass I was trying to decap was berdan primed.
You know what is a cheap check weight set? a Nickel or a quarter.. pick ones not too worn out LOL then check em against your weights. I worked in a lab for a while..
My check weight is my powder tray. It weighs 155 grains.
Nice Garage can I bring my Desoto over and get a tune up ??
Are all the dies from the various companies all interchangeable between reloading press brands?
For the most part unless you are looking at something like a Wilson in line die that you would use with an arbor press.
I am looking at a Lee hand reloader and a "speed" die. is this a path to trouble. my budget is in the HI-POINT category. I have looked at a Lee breechloader kit as well. I know there are pros and cons for each of them, which has the least "cons" or the most "pros" for a brand new guy.
The video is good and very informative. I'm curious why you cut out the RCBS logo? They seem to be a pretty popular brand.
I buy all my stuff. I have rcbs equipment too, it just doesn't show up here.
@@BoltActionReloading ok cool. I thought maybe there was some bad blood or something. Thanks for replying.
would lee be a good die for doing low volume hunting rounds for 300 wsm
As far as I understand it, at least for pistol ammo Lee carbide dies do not need lube; am I missing something?
If I remove the stuck case by using a remover, is that the shell can be reusable?
👍
Interesting that RCBS is completely ignored and even cut out
I was wondering about that bc that’s the kit I went with a single stage Rcbs.
There is nothing wrong with RCBS, people read too much into what is and isn't always included. I paid for all this equipment, I can't possibly afford to buy a press or any other tool from every manufacturer that sells the same tool.
He uses an RCBS ChargeMaster powder dispenser… their dies are on par with Hornady IMHO.
You forgot to mention the press, some things to consider when choosing presses, and why you ended up deciding to use that one. Good video though.
I'm looking to starting reloading 308 win for my tikka t3x. Primarliy wanting to reload my own hunting rounds. Where i live you dont often get shots over 200yds so that would be the max distance i would be shooting. What kit would you recommend?
I am not a big fan of kits to be honest. It depends what you want to load and how much. There is so low availability now you have time to research and backorder what will suit you best.
BAR
👍😎
My name is Bill Q where can I get the best price for a single stage Foster press I’ve heard great reviews on it
Does any of this equipment apply to reloading shotgun ammo or is reloading shotgun ammunition not a thing?
I just started reloading, I'm just reloading .45acp at the moment , for my edc firearms and I got a great deal on a rcbs rockchucker supreme kit, the thing I kinda noticed is that the Nosler reloading book(that came with the kit) is very limited in the load data department, could someone point me in the direction of who's manuals have the most complete load data in terms of most powder and bullet manufacturers???? Any help is much appreciated
Hi Jeremy, there is a lot of data available free form the powder manufacturers online. Hodgdon had a lot of data if you haven't picked a powder yet.
BAR
@@BoltActionReloading thanks for the info, i started out with winchester 231
What type press is that??
*DO NOT* be afraid to buy the harbor freight calipers. You can take a fine stone and dress the parts and create a very functional, inexpensive caliper. There is a video, if you look, on Harbor Freight calipers vs others and it shows you how to make them quite nice.
And that's really the difference between them and "better" (next grade or two up) units is in the finishing work they put into the bar, etc. If you're "handy" enough to reload your own ammo, you can put a little effort into improving a tool.
The A.v.E. channel has a good caliper video. "Save dollars where you can, spend dollars where you need."
Have you ever cleaned brass using walnut husks
I was using ultrasonic first, but switched to wet tumbling. I didnt want the dust and media switching that goes with walnut. I am sure it works fine, but I can do all my operations indoors without making any mess.
Bolt Action Reloading appreciate that, I hate the fact you then have to clean out any residual.
Best gunpowder to use for 9mm?
@Mark Bush Will do, thank you.
Will a die set from RCBS fit a Forster press?
Yes most presses accept all dies that are 7/8 14
When buying dies it boils down to which company offers the dies you want. Not all companies make all dies.
An advanced tool is the hornady comparators and headspace gauges but those can wait a bit. I really need you to stop wearing Ohio State gear since I’m a Penn State alum and the viewer is always right...😆
I was thinking of doing a series of basic, advanced and extravagant tools. Better luck next year.
Starett is the VERY best you can buy, but you pay for quality.
That's what the Pros used to have in Tool & Die. At least that's what I used to see.
Are dyes universal or manufacturer kit specific?
Dies are pretty much universal.