The number 1 hint/tip/trick/hack is to have fun! Dont be to serious! Make it a great time! I love trying to challenge the truck and myself to make it over impossible obstacles! Also dont be scared to break something!
G'day m8, i just entered crawling but due to average price of $600AUD for a decent crawler i just cant afford it on my disability pension, so i just bought a SCX24 deadbolt, and during these trying times its great for around the yard.....cheers for the infotaiment m8 from Beautiful Downunder!!
Thx ! I followed one of your advices: I bought 105 brass weight of the 'circle' inside of my metal beadlock wheels. With just that mod + a stronger steering servo, my TRX-4 is now totally different !!!!! A joy. And it is even really surprising, sometimes, when I ride in sections I tried some tile ago and that was not possible. Now I can go almost relax.
I've used the Hobbywing 1080 for years but, I switched over to the Carisma ARC-2 crawler ESC. It's like the 1080 with more settings and a much better drag brake. I use heavy beadlocks but, have never used wheel weights. Instead I lower my suspension. That's the best way I have found to lower your CoG.
Wow. I agree...and I never agree 100% with anybody. Ha. I appreciate the way you state that heavier wheels and tires MAY perform better, cuz it's not the slam dunk some people swear it is. The wheels on my Enduro are like bricks, but my light-footed 10ii follows right along, finding traction in other ways. 👍
I agree with your tips. Only overdrive I still couldn't try and I'm not so confident. In our group we have almost 20 Crawlers (Traxxas, Axial, Reely, Redcat, Austar kit...) and we enjoy trying all setup and changes (at last I'm an engineer...and I love this). Our order for relevance is: - good tires (without them, hard paths are impossible) - good vehicle balance (weight on the front and lower as possible, with brass + other weights attached on the front axle) - ground clearance (front and rear approach angles, middle chassis shape) - good quality (programmable) ESC (freewheeling needed) + transmitter with basic regulations - maximum speed not so low, to jump some obstacles (Axial sometimes is not so good), in this 3s LiPo helps much (best is 2 speed gearbox) - light weight of overall vehicle (too heavy one sometimes appear being to have more traction issues) - shocks tuning (depending on the obstacles sometimes is better having soft/hard settings...but we where studying about this when coronavirus stopped our trips) - under chassis lights (really useful when the sunset arrive, to see where you are going to drive your tires)
After Lockdown I hope to be able to get the right stuff... unfortunately in Italy I don't know how to find the right stuff and online USA seller have many problems to ship here in this awful moments... Thanks to all
Really cool that you're letting us know the run times you're getting from different batteries . No one does that . Really appreciated. I'm going to get myself a smaller pack to trial .
Great tips! Another tip, a common noob impulse is to lift it. I dont prefer total droop, but a high lift will definitely tip you before the serious crawling even begins. Find a terrain preference. Will you specialize on specific terrains, or go more all around performance. My first crawler was all around, second is a beast in the mud, uphill climb, and smaller rock fields where clearance is needed. Third I'm working on now will be an agile and very competent crawler.
I run full droop on all my rigs now. cut down a small spring for a internal compression bump stop and to have some cushion and get the ride height where I wanted it.i climb steep stuff pretty regularly.
@@discusdog i think that's what I'm gonna do on my next one, as it's gonna be more non-scale strictly hard crawling. Maybe I'll have to adjust my driving, as I've grown used to having more clearance than full droop.
@@ctsteve1967 as a general rule of thumb you want softer front stiffer rear suspension. Whether you acomplish that threw springs or oil ...ehh. you can also make your front suspension more "nimble " generally by adjusting the shock mount position angling the shock slightly like / with the top shock moved twards the middle of the rig. Dont be afraid to play around. Ride hight, droop stiffness has very little cut n dry right or wrong. Depends a lot on your terrain drive style and preference. Like i said play around and find what you like. Hope this helps. Just noticed theres no other mounting spot for the shocks on the trx4 sport lol my redcat does.
For making your tires heavier, I prefer lead used in roofing. Can cut it easy with a stanley knife in to strips that I run around the wheel a few times. It's also free if you ask some construction workers if they have any scrap :)
Always great tips and advice! You're my favorite RUclips channel for crawler information. You have saved me a bunch of money and headache brother!!! Always look forward for another great video! 👍👍👍👍👍👍🏆🏆🏆🏆😀
I must say you’re a good teacher I’ve always had problems in school studying because I was always a visual learner they did not know that back in the 80s 🧐
Thanks bud. I just try to explain it in terms that I can understand and visualize and that usually works for most. And never talk down or use fancy words to impress. Science theory sticks better when they make it makes real-world sense.
Great tips! I'd say those are my top 5, except swap overdrive for a good steering servo. Suspension is another must do for cog and holding battery weight, droop,flex etc
My Best Tip or first thing I would tell someone getting into crawling #1 Start Here, Ser I wish I could help come across your channel along time ago! Why I didn't RUclips must be getting in the Habit of saveing the Best for Last ! U are a calm ,respectful , Ambassador for the Crawler Enthusiasts! I will tell you that alot of the SCX24 is my thing on a Budget that get no thinner them A RC Enthusiasts that Needs to be on disability but thing take so long,so What I got and do get a blessing in the truest sense of the word, and Im not to popular with some other Channels because the only advice or tips are spending and when thats impossible,I don't know what I'm getting at, Thank You for Being Yourself I Hope one day I will be Rolling around in the new Ford Traxxas put out on the old platform, That really if I had it would not stop me because I simply am gravitated toward it,oh I have ask other channels of ever something they Wanted to sell let me know,I do try to save But this question seemed to upset and that was never ever the intention, Ser Had a Climb for me!
What I like to do these days is 50% sag (shocks compress halfway down) to lower the ride height and lower the CG. On the shock oil, for high performance crawling, I like to go heavy (usually 60wt, depending on piston hole size). Basically, the shock should support the weight of the body and not let tip over so easily. But the shocks should be able to their neutral/sag position when the terrain levels out.
I always star cut my tyre memory foams. Gives the tyre gaps to crease into. Definitely an improvement on the rocks for me. Also I have always added axle wideners to every crawler I own. They are v cheap and can make a much more stable rig. And expensive servos. I use Savox and Bluebird. Titanium gears stop the tears.
Another tip of yesterday...is changing the motor ! I've a huge Crawler sold as 1/10 but bigger and standard motors where too slow or to hot... difficult to manage. I tried a new stuff: I bought a 12-24V 550 DRILL MOTOR..it seems really like Traxxas by photos. It really was perfect for format and fixing to gearbox, * only need a little cut to fix the pinion. The torque is really great even at startup with a poor 2s LiPo ! The Crawler become amazing in driving at any speed and over any obstacle...and the motor becomes hot but not so much !! No electronic change was made. I have ordered 4 more to try for other lighter models... Last but not least, the price was only 13 Euros each one !
I took your advice and I put the 1080 esc in.my scx10 2 kit.its awesome.i run 20 weight shock oil.my rig doesn’t work well with other weights.i run 27.5 in my trx4 blazer.with low cg batt tray and 72 gram portal covers.it climbs awesome.
old slot car racer here thought about some tricks we used to do. Might work , may not. #1- true tires ; would hold car rear wheels over flat sandpaper and lightly touch with motor running till rubber wore to an even pattern for more contact area. #2- motor break-in ; Oil the bushings lightly then run SLOWLY with out loading , to seat brushes to com. without arcing , for 3 minutes ,this also can be speeded up by removing motor and dunking in a glass of water and running slow for 30 seconds..#3- Gear mesh, to tight loads motor, to loose strip gears. Used to use chewing gum wrap paper stuck between pinon an spur gear for a starting point then FEEL your mesh from there. .Nobody seems to mention any of these just go..all the Pro Teams in handout motor endero races would get a cup of water take the motors put them on a power supply at low voltage and dip for 30 seconds , check gear mesh and never saw them fry a motor after 8 hours of continuous racing , cause Co. was not burnt from arcing on the first big power hit. gears were not loading up the motor , motor bearing and axle bushings lightly oiled every lane change (about 1 -2 hour) Something to think about..
My tips are => 1/ Do not set up completely unrealistic terrain that no real off-roader could ever hope to negotiate. 2/ When considering 'scale' one should also take into consideration the weight of the vehicle, also to scale, and adjust suspension/spring accordingly. 3/ The lower the gearing and limited slip-differentials, will win the day!
I found that when I put wheel weights in it displaced some of the foam almost acting like dual stage foam. Otherwise I've done all that you advised save the esc. I'm also looking at getting an Element RC trailwalker body for my Gen8 to swap out here and there. Thanks for the video
As always Francis, Good video with excellent tips! Keep them coming! Your idea about a teaching video of some sort s excellent, I think you need to take on this project in your spare time😂😂. But seriously, you have access to many great crawling areas and would be able to talk about tips and tricks to crawl those areas. And as your doing that explaining what is on that truck(mods...etc.) that is helping you to clear the obstacles.
Great video! This consolidates a lot of things I’ve been hearing across different videos and formums into one place. This is a fantastic video as a refresher and for beginners/ intermediates who wants to take it up to the next level.
Yessir another Amazing vid from the crawlmaster 👍🏻 I have followed this man's advice and mine out crawls all of my friends my next upgrade is the overdrive underdrive set 👊🏼
Thank you so much for taking the time to spread your knowledge and experience in this hobby! I have a trx4 sport and jus ordered the bronco I cant wait to play with all them extras who haha
Thanks for one of the best RUclips channels! I’ve found my scx10 Ii almost to capable, it’s hard to find natural trail that give me a challenge. So my tip is to go slow on the upgrade in the beginning so that you get bored because its not challenging anymore. All my upgrades have been scale focused and new transmitter up to this point. Now I just ordered new tires. Looking forward to see the performance boost 😊
I have a TRX4 Sport with Traxx. Decided to swap to regular tires and found that to be a big no-no. The Traxx offer a lot of weight down low over stock wheels and tires and while it raises the center of gravity, it increases traction greatly because of the longer footprint as compared to a round tire.
Love your video for sharing tips and secrets. I'm gonna add with the good setup of suspension and linkages (probably the wheelbase) is also gonna help a lot for your RC crawler. but its okay, I'm also in a learning process here.
Thanks for your informative videos! I do have a question on steering servo's. How can one know what "kg" servo rating for any esc? Also what esc do you recommend?
The BEST out of box crawler is the Danchee by red cat. I can drive straight up the wall touch all 4 tires and rev back with no tipping. This is nothing done to it even drive up stairs 😆 it's the best. I beat $400 crawlers with no problem..... but great tips
i bougth my first rc an rgt ex86100 love it, i really like what you say about the 3s lipo.... but i don t know nothing about it can i have any tips about what 3s what size etc i can run ? i have the onli nimh battery so i have to upgrade in any case why not do directly the 3s ;) great channel! helped me so muuch!
Love your hints very very much helpful so i can upgrade my rc Polaris and rock climberssss lol i have.. Greatly appreciate your secrets.... Happy Trailing / RCING👋👋👋🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉💜💜💜💜💜
Hey I don't know if you answer ? But I really love this video got me taking notes could you tell me what affordable esc for my new trx4 I've seen a hobbywing video of yours but I don't remember. I also saw your trx4 video where did you get the forward mounting battery tray
@@ctsteve1967 i personally am using a 20wt oil I have a sport so it has the white spring rate shocks all four corners I have the preload backed way off just to hold tension on the cups running a droop setup and it works amazing for me you can come check out my channel and see how mine runs if you'd like
@@ctsteve1967 I've been running stock springs just adusted the ride hight as low as i could get away with....rubs some but idc and i run Duratrax deepwoods cr shes a beast.
This will start a lively debate, 60wt oil, yellow springs up front green in the rear. Shocks move nice and slow, less wheel hop, less bounce and controlled reaction on steep climbs with transitions, lumps, bumps and holes. Shock tuning is done correctly when it’s done the way you like. Try different combinations. Tune to the feel YOU like.
Good Job! to me it is Underdrive in the Front and in the rear axle. It killes a Lot Torque Twist and gives U more Power, slow Speed Control all in once.
Coming back to this after your experience testing overdrive, do you still feel like overdrive is truly a worthwhile mod? I just don't see it helping with grip as much as you say. My experience what I like to go for is droop shocks(pull down shocks), 1500mah graphine zee battery, dual stage foams and grippy tires on heavy SSD steel wheels, high clearance links, and a good servo. Gear down, kv/volt up.
Your Channel is costing me soo much money. Since SIP I’ve gotten a TRX4 sport and have a Gen 8 axe on its way. Also have traded old drone for scx10.2 frame kit and scx24. Waiting for trx4 sport kit to be available again so I can build from scratch. Should I go with a sport kit or trx4 chassis kit? Thanks for your videos. Keep them coming.
Great tips ! I just got my axe system for my trx6 and was wondering where you plugged the fan for the ESC into and where didn’t you plugged in the light at?
Thank you, I wanted to let you know that I really enjoy watching her videos you really know what you’re talking about how do you like sharing it that’s good you got a good heart and a real love for the sport. I like your tip about having the front wheels rotating a little faster than the rear we also makes sense and climbing. I just wonder if they do the same thing in real full scale four wheel drives?
Just got mine yesterday haven't installed yet but like the feeling of it all ready for the price witch at the moment is inflated do to what going on but keep up great work and stay safe
@@eddymerkinsorry I know this comment is 2 years old but look into anti-squat and anti-dive link geometry. Busted Knuckle films has a good video on in and also others explaining things such as roll centre, link triangulation, and all such things to do with suspension geometry.
Working on my new Gen8Axe upgrades to deal with bump steer and other issues. My two trx4s are good to go with no stock changes. Love your videos and information. I think my TRX-4 sport is still the best stock rc for my needs. I do like the Gen8Axe upgrades that come with that rc. Not satisfied with battery tray and may look into getting one like the TRX-4 has. For my older redcats, the steering and servos are the main issue. You get what you pay for.
@@RCReviewChannel I ordered the panhard front attachment to help with bump steer to see how it works. I just changed gear housing and cover to metal on my new gen8 axe. About to install body and chassis light kits. My TRX-4s will get light kits later. I found that the plastic on the Gen8Axe was soft and the gear cover split at screw hole. Also, wanted to have more stability.
Added both light kits to Gen8Axe. Also cracked one front light bucket, so I had to order another set. Going to put on servo relocation metal part and hefty steering kit. I will put on panhard part for bump steer. I have had steering issues with Gen8Axe since out of box and tried both servo arm placement and trim through transmitter and app. Still steers bad forward and reverse. Hopefully new parts will help. My older redcats had some problems since they are bashers. My two TRX-4 sport and defender never have any problems. The Gen8Axe has very weak light buckets and wish they were like on the TRX-4. Very dissatisfied with cheap plastic on light buckets, but am very careful anyway. I will see how they hold up when hit hard in the front. I knew it was a gamble getting the Gen8Axe. Not hating it, but love the rest of the vehicle and installed electronics and great transmitter as Francis describes. So far these two items are the things wrong; light buckets and bad steering and servo arm placement from factory. Greased all gears and replaced spur gear to metal, and changed gear housing to metal due to split in soft plastic for gear cover. I like the wheels and tires stock.
Hello. I have an axial capra and I added 50gr weight in the front wheels and a brass knuckle that adds another 50 gr per wheel. Im overweighting the car? I want to do routes with it as well as a bit of climbing but not climbing 100%. Im worried that im overcharging the drive shafts too much
Great information. I am just getting back into electric RC and my question is, the 3 cell you showed is 11.1V so can the TRX-4 standard ESC support this voltage?
I am looking to get two trx-4 sports and one trx-4 blazer for me and my family and am looking for a battery that will last around 2 to 3 hour run time could you give any advice on what battery (mah, C rating, and brand) you would recomend because I cant get much info on this and it seems like everyone says something different thank you
Hi all, kind of new to crawling and about to venture out to out into scale crawling. Can someone share what he means by ‘overdrive’ ? Do I have to buy something else to achieve this, or is it like adding something to the diffs like folks do in racing etc to almost lock the front diff to help pull it through the corners? I’ve got the 1080, and just added a set of metal headlock wheels (about 118g each) and I run without any foams - I just like the squashed look. I’m not competing in national competitions just looking to have fun, and so far the ‘no foams’ has done well, as has the 80T motor.
Good video as always, some great tips. Been a 2s guy forever but have discovered that 3s when geared right will out preform a 2s hands down. What mah 3s battery are you using to get about an hour run time.
You will notice the difference in performance. Smaller lightweight battery = less sprung weight = up up n over 👍🏻 I usually crawl for 2 to 3 hours and have to change the battery at around the two hour mark. Two 1300’s are perfect for me. 10ii kit trans, running Hobbywing Fusion 1800kv.
One of the best things for trx4 is: GRC Ackerman steering kit. So good😁👍. Also a good servo. Maybe reefs 444 or better. Love the vids sir. Keep up the good work. ***Any chance of showing us how to hook up fly sky gt5 to trx4 with 2 speed and locking diffs??? Would love to make that radio work🤔🤷♂️🙏😁
Sir i change my hsp boxer pro default battery with lipo 11.1v 3c 2200 mah.. Its run like touring car fast like F1 or Touring cars. Guide me which battery suitable for run my hsp boxer pro...or should i change pinion ? have no idea sir... Coz im new to this rc crawler world that rig (HSP boxer pro) im affortable to buy... I have no guide ha3...
Best tip; get a good ESC & remote. More fun in the long run & you'll have much parameters to play with. You can have the most powerful motor & servo but if you can't control it, you're done.
For me definitely wheel weights, i used the sticky wheel weights used for real cars. And shock tuning, softer springs with a thicker/heavier oil has worked the best for me. Thanks for another amazing video and info. Thanks to this channel i have been able to get both my trx4 and SCX10iii to perform so good that i get bored on my regular place lol, and im always looking for more harder and harder stuff
Thanks for sharing. That's such a cheap and effective upgrade. The key is getting it round enough. I use gorilla tape around to keep it in place forever.
![BRASIL vs. URUGUAY [1-1] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-hWBAuxF1eY/mqdefault.jpg)
The number 1 hint/tip/trick/hack is to have fun! Dont be to serious! Make it a great time! I love trying to challenge the truck and myself to make it over impossible obstacles! Also dont be scared to break something!
That's no secret though. :) Well said.
Totally agree, and i sometimes even put ballast in my car to make it look more realistic and even more hard.
Plan on breaking something. It helps to have your next upgrade ready for that to happen.
@@amwood7076 oh yeah you have to keep the upgrades ready!
@@rc-daily seriously, but not seriously!
Ive found buying quality parts not only helps my pocket in the long run, but they usually perform a lot better.
@@ctsteve1967ierc, holmes hobbies, saxox, hobbywing, incision, reefs...
Indeed.
What do you think of xmamba for quality
@@patrickbishop6296 people who get lucky with their castle system love it. People who dont... hate it. If you are going to spend big bucks get a tekin
Thank you. Because of your enthusiasm and joy for RC Crawlers i bought my TRX-4. And this was the best decision i made this year!
G'day m8, i just entered crawling but due to average price of $600AUD for a decent crawler i just cant afford it on my disability pension, so i just bought a SCX24 deadbolt, and during these trying times its great for around the yard.....cheers for the infotaiment m8 from Beautiful Downunder!!
Remo hobby isn’t too expensive, around $180
Thx !
I followed one of your advices:
I bought 105 brass weight of the 'circle' inside of my metal beadlock wheels.
With just that mod + a stronger steering servo, my TRX-4 is now totally different !!!!!
A joy.
And it is even really surprising, sometimes, when I ride in sections I tried some tile ago and that was not possible. Now I can go almost relax.
I've used the Hobbywing 1080 for years but, I switched over to the Carisma ARC-2 crawler ESC. It's like the 1080 with more settings and a much better drag brake. I use heavy beadlocks but, have never used wheel weights. Instead I lower my suspension. That's the best way I have found to lower your CoG.
😊
I’m 😊😊😊W
Zw
Wow. I agree...and I never agree 100% with anybody. Ha. I appreciate the way you state that heavier wheels and tires MAY perform better, cuz it's not the slam dunk some people swear it is. The wheels on my Enduro are like bricks, but my light-footed 10ii follows right along, finding traction in other ways. 👍
I have used slightly larger diameter foams in the front to give my Gen 8 an overdrive effect.
I agree with your tips.
Only overdrive I still couldn't try and I'm not so confident.
In our group we have almost 20 Crawlers (Traxxas, Axial, Reely, Redcat, Austar kit...) and we enjoy trying all setup and changes (at last I'm an engineer...and I love this).
Our order for relevance is:
- good tires (without them, hard paths are impossible)
- good vehicle balance (weight on the front and lower as possible, with brass + other weights attached on the front axle)
- ground clearance (front and rear approach angles, middle chassis shape)
- good quality (programmable) ESC (freewheeling needed) + transmitter with basic regulations
- maximum speed not so low, to jump some obstacles (Axial sometimes is not so good), in this 3s LiPo helps much (best is 2 speed gearbox)
- light weight of overall vehicle (too heavy one sometimes appear being to have more traction issues)
- shocks tuning (depending on the obstacles sometimes is better having soft/hard settings...but we where studying about this when coronavirus stopped our trips)
- under chassis lights (really useful when the sunset arrive, to see where you are going to drive your tires)
Amazing tips!!!!! That's what it's all about.
Overdrive makes a huge difference not only in turning radius but helps with keeping the front end down when climbing the steep stuff.
After Lockdown I hope to be able to get the right stuff... unfortunately in Italy I don't know how to find the right stuff and online USA seller have many problems to ship here in this awful moments...
Thanks to all
Really cool that you're letting us know the run times you're getting from different batteries . No one does that . Really appreciated. I'm going to get myself a smaller pack to trial .
Yes!!! With brushless, run times increase about 30% since those motors are even more efficient.
Also try to place said pack over the front axle. It helps with weight distribution when climbing.
Great tips!
Another tip, a common noob impulse is to lift it.
I dont prefer total droop, but a high lift will definitely tip you before the serious crawling even begins.
Find a terrain preference. Will you specialize on specific terrains, or go more all around performance.
My first crawler was all around, second is a beast in the mud, uphill climb, and smaller rock fields where clearance is needed.
Third I'm working on now will be an agile and very competent crawler.
I run full droop on all my rigs now. cut down a small spring for a internal compression bump stop and to have some cushion and get the ride height where I wanted it.i climb steep stuff pretty regularly.
@@discusdog i think that's what I'm gonna do on my next one, as it's gonna be more non-scale strictly hard crawling.
Maybe I'll have to adjust my driving, as I've grown used to having more clearance than full droop.
@@MrsRabbit8 for sure need to change approach to stuff.as the loss of belly clearance is a little less forgiving.
@@ctsteve1967 as a general rule of thumb you want softer front stiffer rear suspension. Whether you acomplish that threw springs or oil ...ehh. you can also make your front suspension more "nimble " generally by adjusting the shock mount position angling the shock slightly like / with the top shock moved twards the middle of the rig. Dont be afraid to play around. Ride hight, droop stiffness has very little cut n dry right or wrong. Depends a lot on your terrain drive style and preference. Like i said play around and find what you like. Hope this helps. Just noticed theres no other mounting spot for the shocks on the trx4 sport lol my redcat does.
For making your tires heavier, I prefer lead used in roofing. Can cut it easy with a stanley knife in to strips that I run around the wheel a few times. It's also free if you ask some construction workers if they have any scrap :)
Always great tips and advice! You're my favorite RUclips channel for crawler information. You have saved me a bunch of money and headache brother!!! Always look forward for another great video! 👍👍👍👍👍👍🏆🏆🏆🏆😀
I must say you’re a good teacher I’ve always had problems in school studying because I was always a visual learner they did not know that back in the 80s 🧐
Thanks bud. I just try to explain it in terms that I can understand and visualize and that usually works for most. And never talk down or use fancy words to impress. Science theory sticks better when they make it makes real-world sense.
Great tips! I'd say those are my top 5, except swap overdrive for a good steering servo. Suspension is another must do for cog and holding battery weight, droop,flex etc
I've found that moving weight as low as possible is a big help. Like a light weight body or a low CG battery tray.
My Best Tip or first thing I would tell someone getting into crawling #1
Start Here, Ser I wish I could help come across your channel along time ago! Why I didn't RUclips must be getting in the Habit of saveing the Best for Last ! U are a calm ,respectful , Ambassador for the Crawler Enthusiasts! I will tell you that alot of the SCX24 is my thing on a Budget that get no thinner them A RC Enthusiasts that Needs to be on disability but thing take so long,so What I got and do get a blessing in the truest sense of the word, and Im not to popular with some other Channels because the only advice or tips are spending and when thats impossible,I don't know what I'm getting at, Thank You for Being Yourself I Hope one day I will be Rolling around in the new Ford Traxxas put out on the old platform, That really if I had it would not stop me because I simply am gravitated toward it,oh I have ask other channels of ever something they Wanted to sell let me know,I do try to save But this question seemed to upset and that was never ever the intention, Ser Had a Climb for me!
Thanks for the tips. I'd like to hear your ideas on shocks and suspension tuning for crawlers. Thanks.
What I like to do these days is 50% sag (shocks compress halfway down) to lower the ride height and lower the CG.
On the shock oil, for high performance crawling, I like to go heavy (usually 60wt, depending on piston hole size). Basically, the shock should support the weight of the body and not let tip over so easily. But the shocks should be able to their neutral/sag position when the terrain levels out.
Thanks for the idea!
Francis love your videos thank you. Was thinking you should do one teaching crawling driving techniques next!
FreshYoungDude yes
Good idea!
I always star cut my tyre memory foams. Gives the tyre gaps to crease into. Definitely an improvement on the rocks for me. Also I have always added axle wideners to every crawler I own. They are v cheap and can make a much more stable rig. And expensive servos. I use Savox and Bluebird. Titanium gears stop the tears.
what do you mean by star cut, I'm looking for more grip out of my current tires before I order some more
@@bolas_dirtbike2066he means you take the foam out of the tire, and cut pie wedge shapes out of it, making it look more like a star than a donut
Another tip of yesterday...is changing the motor !
I've a huge Crawler sold as 1/10 but bigger and standard motors where too slow or to hot... difficult to manage.
I tried a new stuff: I bought a 12-24V 550 DRILL MOTOR..it seems really like Traxxas by photos.
It really was perfect for format and fixing to gearbox, * only need a little cut to fix the pinion.
The torque is really great even at startup with a poor 2s LiPo !
The Crawler become amazing in driving at any speed and over any obstacle...and the motor becomes hot but not so much !!
No electronic change was made.
I have ordered 4 more to try for other lighter models...
Last but not least, the price was only 13 Euros each one !
I took your advice and I put the 1080 esc in.my scx10 2 kit.its awesome.i run 20 weight shock oil.my rig doesn’t work well with other weights.i run 27.5 in my trx4 blazer.with low cg batt tray and 72 gram portal covers.it climbs awesome.
Glad to hear it
old slot car racer here thought about some tricks we used to do. Might work , may not. #1- true tires ; would hold car rear wheels over flat sandpaper and lightly touch with motor running till rubber wore to an even pattern for more contact area. #2- motor break-in ; Oil the bushings lightly then run SLOWLY with out loading , to seat brushes to com. without arcing , for 3 minutes ,this also can be speeded up by removing motor and dunking in a glass of water and running slow for 30 seconds..#3- Gear mesh, to tight loads motor, to loose strip gears. Used to use chewing gum wrap paper stuck between pinon an spur gear for a starting point then FEEL your mesh from there. .Nobody seems to mention any of these just go..all the Pro Teams in handout motor endero races would get a cup of water take the motors put them on a power supply at low voltage and dip for 30 seconds , check gear mesh and never saw them fry a motor after 8 hours of continuous racing , cause Co. was not burnt from arcing on the first big power hit. gears were not loading up the motor , motor bearing and axle bushings lightly oiled every lane change (about 1 -2 hour) Something to think about..
My tips are => 1/ Do not set up completely unrealistic terrain that no real off-roader could ever hope to negotiate. 2/ When considering 'scale' one should also take into consideration the weight of the vehicle, also to scale, and adjust suspension/spring accordingly. 3/ The lower the gearing and limited slip-differentials, will win the day!
I found that when I put wheel weights in it displaced some of the foam almost acting like dual stage foam. Otherwise I've done all that you advised save the esc. I'm also looking at getting an Element RC trailwalker body for my Gen8 to swap out here and there. Thanks for the video
As always Francis, Good video with excellent tips! Keep them coming! Your idea about a teaching video of some sort s excellent, I think you need to take on this project in your spare time😂😂. But seriously, you have access to many great crawling areas and would be able to talk about tips and tricks to crawl those areas. And as your doing that explaining what is on that truck(mods...etc.) that is helping you to clear the obstacles.
Sounds good! Yes, doing my research on 'How to crawl' videos. It seems none exist.
Great video! This consolidates a lot of things I’ve been hearing across different videos and formums into one place. This is a fantastic video as a refresher and for beginners/ intermediates who wants to take it up to the next level.
Yessir another Amazing vid from the crawlmaster 👍🏻 I have followed this man's advice and mine out crawls all of my friends my next upgrade is the overdrive underdrive set 👊🏼
That is awesome!
Thank you so much for taking the time to spread your knowledge and experience in this hobby! I have a trx4 sport and jus ordered the bronco I cant wait to play with all them extras who haha
High clearance links help with sharp break overs,
Thanks for one of the best RUclips channels! I’ve found my scx10 Ii almost to capable, it’s hard to find natural trail that give me a challenge. So my tip is to go slow on the upgrade in the beginning so that you get bored because its not challenging anymore. All my upgrades have been scale focused and new transmitter up to this point. Now I just ordered new tires. Looking forward to see the performance boost 😊
This is why I’m considering a tf2
A good tip is to watch your videos! Thanks for your work. 😃👍
I have a TRX4 Sport with Traxx. Decided to swap to regular tires and found that to be a big no-no. The Traxx offer a lot of weight down low over stock wheels and tires and while it raises the center of gravity, it increases traction greatly because of the longer footprint as compared to a round tire.
Love your video for sharing tips and secrets. I'm gonna add with the good setup of suspension and linkages (probably the wheelbase) is also gonna help a lot for your RC crawler. but its okay, I'm also in a learning process here.
Thanks for your informative videos! I do have a question on steering servo's. How can one know what "kg" servo rating for any esc? Also what esc do you recommend?
The BEST out of box crawler is the Danchee by red cat. I can drive straight up the wall touch all 4 tires and rev back with no tipping. This is nothing done to it even drive up stairs 😆 it's the best. I beat $400 crawlers with no problem..... but great tips
i bougth my first rc an rgt ex86100 love it, i really like what you say about the 3s lipo.... but i don t know nothing about it can i have any tips about what 3s what size etc i can run ? i have the onli nimh battery so i have to upgrade in any case why not do directly the 3s ;) great channel! helped me so muuch!
Love your hints very very much helpful so i can upgrade my rc Polaris and rock climberssss lol i have.. Greatly appreciate your secrets.... Happy Trailing / RCING👋👋👋🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉💜💜💜💜💜
Hey I don't know if you answer ? But I really love this video got me taking notes could you tell me what affordable esc for my new trx4 I've seen a hobbywing video of yours but I don't remember. I also saw your trx4 video where did you get the forward mounting battery tray
Shock tuning makes a big difference. Springs and oil.
@@ctsteve1967 i personally am using a 20wt oil I have a sport so it has the white spring rate shocks all four corners I have the preload backed way off just to hold tension on the cups running a droop setup and it works amazing for me you can come check out my channel and see how mine runs if you'd like
@@ctsteve1967 I've been running stock springs just adusted the ride hight as low as i could get away with....rubs some but idc and i run Duratrax deepwoods cr shes a beast.
Dont agree, shocks arent as important in the crawling world as they are in the racing world
This will start a lively debate, 60wt oil, yellow springs up front green in the rear. Shocks move nice and slow, less wheel hop, less bounce and controlled reaction on steep climbs with transitions, lumps, bumps and holes. Shock tuning is done correctly when it’s done the way you like. Try different combinations. Tune to the feel YOU like.
Thank you for another brilliant video just ordered wheel weights and foams so that should be the 5 tips you mentioned
Fantastic!
Good Job! to me it is Underdrive in the Front and in the rear axle. It killes a Lot Torque Twist and gives U more Power, slow Speed Control all in once.
Coming back to this after your experience testing overdrive, do you still feel like overdrive is truly a worthwhile mod? I just don't see it helping with grip as much as you say. My experience what I like to go for is droop shocks(pull down shocks), 1500mah graphine zee battery, dual stage foams and grippy tires on heavy SSD steel wheels, high clearance links, and a good servo. Gear down, kv/volt up.
I just got a rgt ex86100 4door Jeep what are the 1st things I should upgrade for slow crawling I’m in Oregon thank u
You make great videos man!!! Thanks so much for the great info for us newbies!!!
Your Channel is costing me soo much money. Since SIP I’ve gotten a TRX4 sport and have a Gen 8 axe on its way. Also have traded old drone for scx10.2 frame kit and scx24. Waiting for trx4 sport kit to be available again so I can build from scratch. Should I go with a sport kit or trx4 chassis kit? Thanks for your videos. Keep them coming.
Sport kit for sure
Sport kit 👍🏻💯
Great tips ! I just got my axe system for my trx6 and was wondering where you plugged the fan for the ESC into and where didn’t you plugged in the light at?
Thank you, I wanted to let you know that I really enjoy watching her videos you really know what you’re talking about how do you like sharing it that’s good you got a good heart and a real love for the sport. I like your tip about having the front wheels rotating a little faster than the rear we also makes sense and climbing. I just wonder if they do the same thing in real full scale four wheel drives?
Just got mine yesterday haven't installed yet but like the feeling of it all ready for the price witch at the moment is inflated do to what going on but keep up great work and stay safe
The geometry of the links makes a huge difference also, you can set it up to pull the front end down under acceleration.
Tell me more!
@@eddymerkinsorry I know this comment is 2 years old but look into anti-squat and anti-dive link geometry. Busted Knuckle films has a good video on in and also others explaining things such as roll centre, link triangulation, and all such things to do with suspension geometry.
I have a small budget for some upgrades, what will add more performance, weight or some dual stage foams paired an overdrive?
I used automotive sticky weights, on the inside sleeve of bead lock wheels. Seems to work well and they're pretty cheap.
Working on my new Gen8Axe upgrades to deal with bump steer and other issues. My two trx4s are good to go with no stock changes. Love your videos and information. I think my TRX-4 sport is still the best stock rc for my needs. I do like the Gen8Axe upgrades that come with that rc. Not satisfied with battery tray and may look into getting one like the TRX-4 has. For my older redcats, the steering and servos are the main issue. You get what you pay for.
So the bump steer doesn't really matter. It's only an issue at high speed.
But to fix it the servo link and panhard link need to be parallel.
@@RCReviewChannel yep. I did swap the pan hard to where the linkage was more parallel, but opted to switch it back.
@@RCReviewChannel I ordered the panhard front attachment to help with bump steer to see how it works. I just changed gear housing and cover to metal on my new gen8 axe. About to install body and chassis light kits. My TRX-4s will get light kits later. I found that the plastic on the Gen8Axe was soft and the gear cover split at screw hole. Also, wanted to have more stability.
Added both light kits to Gen8Axe. Also cracked one front light bucket, so I had to order another set. Going to put on servo relocation metal part and hefty steering kit. I will put on panhard part for bump steer. I have had steering issues with Gen8Axe since out of box and tried both servo arm placement and trim through transmitter and app. Still steers bad forward and reverse. Hopefully new parts will help. My older redcats had some problems since they are bashers. My two TRX-4 sport and defender never have any problems. The Gen8Axe has very weak light buckets and wish they were like on the TRX-4. Very dissatisfied with cheap plastic on light buckets, but am very careful anyway. I will see how they hold up when hit hard in the front. I knew it was a gamble getting the Gen8Axe. Not hating it, but love the rest of the vehicle and installed electronics and great transmitter as Francis describes. So far these two items are the things wrong; light buckets and bad steering and servo arm placement from factory. Greased all gears and replaced spur gear to metal, and changed gear housing to metal due to split in soft plastic for gear cover. I like the wheels and tires stock.
Yes please do suspension set up video.
Best tip... suspension tuning. Shocks and spring first.
Right on
Great video, like your encouraging style! Thanks for sharing your secrets!
Hi Fran! What gears’ ratio do you reco for an scx10 3? Thx man!
im trying to build a budget crawler with spare parts laying around. can i use a 2s or 3s lipo battery with a tamiya TEU103BK dual motor brushed esc?
Hello. I have an axial capra and I added 50gr weight in the front wheels and a brass knuckle that adds another 50 gr per wheel. Im overweighting the car? I want to do routes with it as well as a bit of climbing but not climbing 100%. Im worried that im overcharging the drive shafts too much
Have you got any. Performance tips for side-hilling, to keep from tipping over sideways. Shocks, tires, ride height, weights, droop and whatever!
Wheel hex extenders
Great information. I am just getting back into electric RC and my question is, the 3 cell you showed is 11.1V so can the TRX-4 standard ESC support this voltage?
yes
Nunca había pensado en el tip 5 y y realmente se concentra toda la carga en el ESC 🤷🏻♂️
I am looking to get two trx-4 sports and one trx-4 blazer for me and my family and am looking for a battery that will last around 2 to 3 hour run time could you give any advice on what battery (mah, C rating, and brand) you would recomend because I cant get much info on this and it seems like everyone says something different thank you
Really handy knowledge here, mate!
Hi all, kind of new to crawling and about to venture out to out into scale crawling. Can someone share what he means by ‘overdrive’ ? Do I have to buy something else to achieve this, or is it like adding something to the diffs like folks do in racing etc to almost lock the front diff to help pull it through the corners?
I’ve got the 1080, and just added a set of metal headlock wheels (about 118g each) and I run without any foams - I just like the squashed look. I’m not competing in national competitions just looking to have fun, and so far the ‘no foams’ has done well, as has the 80T motor.
Good video as always, some great tips. Been a 2s guy forever but have discovered that 3s when geared right will out preform a 2s hands down. What mah 3s battery are you using to get about an hour run time.
2200 3s is nice. I prefer 1300 3s though 👍🏻
Never tried 1300mh 3s will have to give them a go.
You will notice the difference in performance. Smaller lightweight battery = less sprung weight = up up n over 👍🏻 I usually crawl for 2 to 3 hours and have to change the battery at around the two hour mark. Two 1300’s are perfect for me. 10ii kit trans, running Hobbywing Fusion 1800kv.
You forgot the #1 tip:
If you reduce chassis weight you dont have to bolt 13lbs of brass to the bottom of your truck.
Very good content!! Would love to know what rc you have in your hand? Is a 1/24 right?
My tip is light wheels with heavy 2 component foam and a sway bar on the rear axle.
I just got beadlocks. Do you have any tips?
Greg Plaka I don’t remember where there from. They are just Chinese beadlocks
One of the best things for trx4 is: GRC Ackerman steering kit. So good😁👍. Also a good servo. Maybe reefs 444 or better. Love the vids sir. Keep up the good work. ***Any chance of showing us how to hook up fly sky gt5 to trx4 with 2 speed and locking diffs??? Would love to make that radio work🤔🤷♂️🙏😁
I will check it out
RC Review awesome. Thanks. Need something better and I trust what your doing so appreciate it sir. 😁
Can you recommend a good esc ?
Great as always Francis. 👍
What's the model you used to demo overdrive (green oldschool pickup)?
What if i have no good esc, can i use dc motor speed controller..budget wise
That is so wierd, i was just looking into these tips and ya uploaded a video on it...
Sir i change my hsp boxer pro default battery with lipo 11.1v 3c 2200 mah.. Its run like touring car fast like F1 or Touring cars. Guide me which battery suitable for run my hsp boxer pro...or should i change pinion ? have no idea sir... Coz im new to this rc crawler world that rig (HSP boxer pro) im affortable to buy... I have no guide ha3...
Thank you for your great content!
My pleasure!
I have a question about climbing. When really steep my right front lifts. How can I stop this or make it less of a problem
I'd try weighting the front tires more than the rear, as mentioned.
intresting tips i should try the overspeed mod
Best tip; get a good ESC & remote. More fun in the long run & you'll have much parameters to play with. You can have the most powerful motor & servo but if you can't control it, you're done.
Great tips thanks 😊
ohh nice video
i learn so much 🙂
Great Video !
Tnks
do u recommend running no foam cause i have been on my carisma coyote and its held up good
No.
Francis, you da Man!!! Keep up the great work, Bro! Subd 4 life.
Love your channel! Keep up the great work!
Hobbywing quick run pro motor/esc combo is amazing
I’d install it but seems like a lot of work
For me definitely wheel weights, i used the sticky wheel weights used for real cars. And shock tuning, softer springs with a thicker/heavier oil has worked the best for me. Thanks for another amazing video and info. Thanks to this channel i have been able to get both my trx4 and SCX10iii to perform so good that i get bored on my regular place lol, and im always looking for more harder and harder stuff
Thanks for sharing. That's such a cheap and effective upgrade. The key is getting it round enough. I use gorilla tape around to keep it in place forever.
If your truck has a hollow front bumper like mine you can stick a lump of clay in there to add weight to the front
Yes, or lead shot is even better since it's more dense.
Thanks very helpful video
Glad it helped
How to make your stock tyre become good..coz stock tyre so firm...
Great video
Can u send me links to amazon store also of the parts
Thanks so much.
great video bro
You're the best
Where should your battery be located, front or rear?
Front or middle. Lowest possible place outta them two. GL
@@ctsteve1967 Go the the facebook groups! I get repsonses to any question in minutes lol. Life changing if you're 3 weeks new like me
replace the nihm battery by a lipo: more powa, more fun
That body looks so good. Is that on a scx24?
Panda tetra X2
Panda Tetra X2