A game-changing NEW way to sharpen! (Scary SHARPER!)
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
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- Sharpening kit: lddy.no/1ge9j
★TAYLOR TOOLWORKS IS A SMALL FAMILY BUSINESS WORTH SUPPORTING★
*They are also supporters of this channel who help keep our videos free. Please support them AND us by saving and using this link whenever you buy tools: lddy.no/s80f
*LIKE THE BACKGROUND?* My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works. They are as wonderful to use as they are to look at: bridgecitytools.com/
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-Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or
-Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz
-Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x
-Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★
-Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8
-Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ
-Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF
-Router: amzn.to/3grD22S
-Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y
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-Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH
-Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr
-Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ
-Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY
-Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc
-Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★
-Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh
-Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI
-Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl
-Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh
-Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo
-Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq
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Such a pity I live in a faraway land of Latvia, shipping too costly.
Looked up locally, damn, they sell Cubitron discs only in quantity no less than 50 pcs... 😥
Hello Stumpy Nubs. I am having all sorts of trouble locating these 3M Cubitron II sanding discs. It is not that they are unavailable, but that the model "775L" is not attached by adhesive, it it "hook back" (velcro) as confirmed by 3M's website. Please confirm this, or help out in some way. NOTE, I would like to have simply bought the kit, but it is unavailable, and I dread to think of the international shipping costs so I was looking to buy the glass and sanding sheets separately.
I'm glad for Taylor toolworks. Normally you can only buy this sandpaper in packs of 250 or 50. It is prohibitively expensive to get the no-pattern stikit 3M cubitron II paper. The only thing I think is a bit overpriced about their offering is the glass plates. I wont link to it out of respect for you, but four 5" round mirror glass pucks cost me less than 6$ at the local hobby store. I can understand doubling the price, for similar, but at more than 3 times the price I start to feel sore about a deal. I'll be buying my sandpaper from them, but not the glass.
@@ADB-zf5zr That's because all small packs (field samples, and sub-units) are marked not-for-retail-sale. This particular sandpaper is aimed at business-to-commercial sales.
@@Gadadharadas Where in Latvia? Many years ago I spent some time there. Our apartment was in the Plavnieki section of Riga. It's a wonderful country.
Great sharpening tips. The Cubitron discs are amazing for wood and steel/iron. They are very effective for flattening the soles and sides of hand planes. Mike Taylor has an excellent video showing his technique.
I learn something new with every Stumpy video.
I know I've been argumentative before but...thank you for all the tips you've given me. No amount of likes or comments or even Taylor Toolworks purchases will ever make up for that...Thank you.
Thanks Stumpy. Your content are always helpful and not just commercials. You recommend what you have find out is working. I'm just a hobbyist and only professional thing I own is the Sjöberg 😂. The reason is its made her in Sweden and we can bay work benches for quite low cost. Now I learned how to sharpen chisels with out expensive stones.. thanks 🙏
Thanks for all your time and effort.
100% on the BOW feather board. I own 3 and am going to get the one for the bandsaw next. Total game changer!
The hollow back is a traditional Japanese style. It reduces the drag when working flat surfaces. All you really need is a flat shiny back at the cutting edge. As you continue to use and wear down the chisel over the years, regular sharpening will perfect both the back and the bevel.
This wasn't a Japanese chisel. The hollow was poorly positioned and formed, not an intentional manufacturing feature.
@@StumpyNubs that. That is funny.
@@PandorasFolly: "that. That is funny."
That. That makes no sense.
@@zapa1pnt the comedic value is derived from the expectations of Roberts overly long explanation of the japanese hollow back being counterpointed by Stumoy saying basically "yeah that isn't a Japanese chisel. Its just so shittily made that it looks like one."
The deadpan reaction from stumpy to Robert's mismatch in expectations to the reality of the situation also provides another layer of humor.
The entire thing is like listending to a wine expert going on about the mouth feel of what he is drinking and the history of the Laroche sweet style of wine and then a waiter walks up and says "uh sir that is the children's sparkling grape juice.
I hope i explained it sufficiently
I'll also add, the flat of a Japanese chisel is not only the front, but the sides too, otherwise it just wouldn't work. Also you could see Stumpys chisel hollow was really off to one side, so totally worthless as a hollow. Best that it's just gone
Great tutorial James. Thanks for sharing it.
I really appreciate your instructional videos, as a complete novice ( at 65 years young) your details are pertinent and persuasive. Thanks :)
To clarify one issue, the glass is float glass, not tempered. Tempered glass would not be suitable because the process induces a slight surface distortion and is therefore not perfectly flat. It looks like the edges of that plate need to be lightly sanded, or seamed in the vernacular, so you don’t cut yourself.
i would also add, just buy a machinist used surface plate, they are relatively inexpensive (especially on very small sizes), and they are very flat, and getting them to extreme flat is very easy (look at lapping on youtube, lot of great content)
It is as you say. Copied from Taylor’s website, “The kit consists of a piece a 5” x 11” dead-flat 5/16” thick float glass, …”
You can get float glass tempered. The Veritas one is tempered glass. Means it doesn't shatter if banged etc...
All tempered glass begins as float glass. Tempered glass will break into thousands of little pieces when it breaks. Its purpose is to reduce injury. While it is extremely strong and break resistant, merely grazing a corner with a hard metal object will cause it to shatter immediately and make one heck of a mess.
I've chipped every corner off my Veritas one and it hasn't exploded. Maybe the tempering process differs like in metal. I've seen some tempered glass fracture in a honeycomb kind of way but I think it's different. I don't know enough about the process over than it's very tough and only chips in my experience with the Veritas one 😅
Love your work, Stumpy 👍
What are some really good chisels that are well made and don't cost a fortune. Thanks for all the awesome informative videos
Older question, but my tip would be a set of 'Kirschen' chisel. Kirschen (translates to cherries) is an old german brand. A set with oak handels (can be replaced and bought at their store) costs around 120€ for a 6 piece kit. They also make them with composite handels for outdoor use (wet conditions) for like 20€ more, but the wood handels look better IMO.
Having used wet stones to prepare my chisels and taking a lot of time to do this, thank you for sharing this technique. It is definitely faster!!!!
AND, it doesn't wear away, like wet stones.
So, you don't have to keep flattening the wet stones, with"flattening"
stones, which have often been found to not be flat themselves. 😁✌🖖
@@zapa1pnt Oh, I agree. Wet stones are high maintenance.
Thank you Cheers.
James thank you. I have been trying to flatten the back of a Stanley plane iron, which was going slowly. I tried this method and it worked quickly. I had some cubitron discs 120 grit and that did the trick. That set would be good if just starting out.
Another great, time saving video. This gives me more time to watch more of your videos.😂 Thanks for sharing your techniques!
Another outstanding tutorial from a master woodworker! And I will checking out the posted links, as well. Thank you!
These are such good sanding discs. Neat to see them enhance this sharpening approach!
Thanks for the tips! I work for a GC, not a fine woodworking shop, but I still have a chisel!
Very timely video, I have been on the scary sharp subject lately thinking about it a lot, I feel like you are psychic.
Cubitron is truly some 21st century abrasive. They also offer much higher grit levels than you would usually use for wood, but they work wonderfully on metals and plastics. And they last seemingly forever unless you abuse them. I keep 'worn out' discs for use with my hand sanding block as they still have a lot of life in them when they cease to cut as well on the power tool.
Great information. Thank you.
Smooth advice 😊
Outstanding work. 👏👏
Thank you Sir.🎉
Hi there Stumpy
I think your RUclips items are just great to see. Full of surprises. Greetings from Matamata, New Zealand.
Stumpy is the GOAT.
I have used Japanese water stones for years to get razor sharp edges, however I have not heard about that sandpaper, I’m going to check it out
Use the sandpaper to smooth the edges of the glass!
Great idea
Great info Thanks!
(bought a Tormek, love it)
Just ordered my kit!!!
Cubitron is a mixture of coarse and finer grits, so a given grit produces a better finish than other sandpaper of equal grit. Great stuff, lasts forever, I love it!
"Scary sharp" is very fleeting because 1 or 2 cuts in hardwood reduce scary sharp to simply "very sharp". I stop when the edge will shave because it doesn't last even with the best steel.
I’ve done some wood carving and I keep a strop beside me as I work. As soon as I feel the edge start to dull, I give it a few strokes. I also keep a container of bandaids on my bench 😉
I have ordered in the past from Taylor toolworks...they have got different sharpening system. I have ordered from them their setting of sharpening using the drill bench.
I used a polished granite tile since I had a few lying around. Also less worrying about breaking it.
I think scary sharp was coined on the old rec.woodworking news group. Ron Hock was a contributor on that group, and made the comment that carbon steel tools can get so sharp that it is scary. Later on, someone else described sharpening (presumably with sandpaper) and made the comment that the tool was so sharp that it scared Ron Hock. I think that is where the term was born.
gotta love TayTool
I am going to have to try this Thanks
Oh, no! Big Cube's gotten to James! :D
I gave up on flattening the back of my chisels because it was taking so long on my water stones. I might have to give this a try!
I'll preface this by saying after watching your video I ordered the kit. Just for kicks I took a set of four new chisels that I just bought to the garage and did a little work on them. I put 220 grit 3M Xtract on a 1/4 piece of aluminum to see if I could just knock down the machine tool marks on the back and bevel. In five minutes I worked out those tooling marks and the dips on the back. I can't wait to get the kit. For about $30, this is the ticket.
If only they made adhesive-backed Cubitron discs for the Worksharp. I can dream.
You can always get the 8" PSA discs and punch a hole in the center, lol. They say they make them on the 3M site, but list no distributors for them.
Great video , ❤ info too.
So i ordered the kit after watching the video. It took a few weeks to get and they replaced the smaller disks with larger ones in order to ship it faster. No issues, just cut off two edges and you end up with a bigger abrasive surface. I choose to use my wheel guide and i have to say, the process is at least 75% faster than using stones. I'll not go back.
Thank you
Yup, Cubitron II is great stuff. I use it on my belt sander, and I got some angle grinder discs that are also made of the stuff. Long lasting, cut fast, and produce a lot less heat. That last bit doesn't matter when hand sanding. But when shaping knives, it really helps keep your stock cooler for longer, so you don't have to dip in water as often, saving precious time.
Really good video thanks!
I use a surface plate so don't need the plate glass. I appreciate the info on the cubitron sandpaper. Didn't know it existed. Thanks.
I’d be interested to know how sharp a chisel is after the first few cuts, because that would indicate how fine the grit needs to be when sharpening. I suspect that above 1000 grit is mostly spoilt by the first cut.
Mount the discs on a perspex circle and put it on a bench drill works really fast.
Could you look at and do a review the Taytools drill press jig for sharpening chisels?
I've been amazed at how quickly that sandpaper cuts metal and sharpens steel. I was surprised you didn't show the kits Mike sells for the drill press to make the process even faster. I made this a few months ago, and sharpened about 20 vintage chisels to razor sharp in about 15 minutes. Absolutely blew my mind and converted me to this system for all my tools now.
So, who is "Mike"?
This is a great idea because the stones of the same grits are so very expensive and you have to keep flattening them with a diamond stone
Thanks
The sharpness of the Tools is only good as how sharp the Person hold the Tool is....Great video always learning thanks
THANK you for that
Now THAT was a good one. I looked at Taylor and they are in Boone Co., Missouri. While you are there you could pick up an internationally famous Boone County Ham. Mizzou is right there too: just the insect collection is worth seeing.
TIP: for gluing sandpaper onto glass, Aleenes' is just fine, as long as you are working by hand. That Titebond is not near the product T-50 was.
You should tell Bridge City that they have a virus. My anti-virus is not good enough to risk contacting them.
Ordered the kit. I’m just curious how I’m supposed to use my sharpening wheel as it will run off the sanding pads and glass unless I only move it an inch?
I'd think the discs are close enough together that you could roll the jig on 1 disc and chisel on the other. If the roller wheel drops that little bit onto the glass, it will lift the edge up you're try to sharpen so it won't affect it
I remember riding the Cubitron back in the 80's - so much fun trying to get out of the corners when it was spinning so fast😱🤮
NICE!
Will those disc's fit a WorkSharp?
How does one get the self-adhesive discs off the glass when they need to be changed?
They peel off. If you need help (I never do) use a heat gun. If adhesive residue builds up over time, clean with mineral spirits.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks for the video and reply
Save sandpaper money,buy 8x11 inch sheet ,take sandpaper with both hands and roll it across any door frame ect. This removes any high spots in the sandpaper in manufacturing.did this for years shaping surfboards,where the material is soft and easy to mar.thus making a better smoother accurate cut.!
Does the Cubitron come in sheets, or only round discs? I would much rather have complete surface coverage if possible.
Great product! I use a guild with a roller. Bouncing on and off of the round disk will change the angle, right?
do they have square paper?
First off, I REALLY enjoy your videos - I'm quite put off by those guys who start off with some loud obnoxious "HEY GUYS THIS IS xxxxx AND TODAY...." Your videos are very informative and cut right to the chase. Plus, your enunciation and clear speaking is a pleasure to listen to - keep it up!
OK, on this video - I've been a woodworker for quite a few years and the wood chisel isn't one of my go to tools. But when I need to use one, mine always seem to fight me. I think I'll have a lot better luck in the future following your tips here about sharpening those little buggers! Thanks!!
Thanks a ton for putting this video out man. If you hadn't, odds are i never would've tried the cubitron ii paper out. It definitely is excellent stuff. I doubt id have considered there'd be much difference between brands or that itd even be worthwhile to use a consumable for sharpening. Well i should say something that wears out more quickly since even diamond plates wear out over time. oh and i had the misfortune of learning the cheap plates i bought also wear out extremely fast if you put much of any pressure on them as well...D'oh!
Would this work on a curved blade?
Hey stumpy, hope you read this, but you got me into woodworking and I’ve been crafting for over 2 years now. I’m definitely not a pro but I’m getting there and loving the journey. I appreciate your videos. Thanks. God bless and have a good day.
:) so happy you saw this.
That chisel is so sharp it makes it look like you were cutting cheese not wood.
3:07 Japanese chisels have a hollow back by design. You don’t remove it. It helps too reduce effort in resharpening. And scary sharp the whole time
This isn't a Japanese chisel.
@@StumpyNubs obviously so. That’s not the point. The point is there is no real reason the back needs to be dead flat. So long as the long axis is straight, which it oftentimes isn’t from tempering, you can leave the back hollow. Once the edges of the back sit flat on a known flat surface you are done.
@@avenuex3731 While you may not have to eliminate the entire hollow on the back, it is fast and easy to do so with this method. So why not? A western chisel relies upon a flat surface as a reference while paring. I find it essential to have at least an inch or so flat. You may do as you prefer.
What are you using to hold your glass in place?
have you tried the cubitron II belts for the belt sander? to get quick stock removal for flattening ? if they are the same material they should make quick work of flattening :)
Scary sharp was introduced by Michael Dunbar of the Windsor Chair school.
You don't think people were sharpening with sandpaper before he wrote about it in Fine Woodworking magazine?
Cubitron 2 and 3inch roll loc grinding disk in a m12 right angle die grinder is also magic nearly replaced my old 4.5inch porter cable plug jn grinder for all my needs.
I've been using the old scary sharp system for years. One thing I've never been sure about is if running the wheel of my honing guide over the sand paper actually crushes and dulls the grit that it's rolling over. Any ideas?
I don't believe so.
is there a prticular name for the sticky back cubitron paper ? I try to find it but I only find regular ones (for sanding machines).
Did you use double sided tape or ... ?
Thank you for your answer
taytools.com/products/3m-775l-cubitron-ii-stickit-5-psa-sanding-discs
Hello,
The link to the sharpening kit doesn’t seem to be working .
I cut a piece of gloss finish porcelain tile to see if it would serve as a substitute for a lapping stone. Wasn’t impressed but it may be suitable as a substitute for float glass????
I'm in Canada. Any idea where I can find these 3M pads? Not having much luck with the Cubitron. Thanks.
Would you advise buying the kits with the glass panels from Taylor Tools if I live in Australia? For some reason it's weirdly hard to find any small bits of cheap glass like this locally but I'm concerned about shipping damage if buying internationally.
Any hard, flat surface will work. A granite floor tile, for example.
Send them an email and ask how that product gets packed, for international shipping.
another great video T/Y
Don’t remove the “hollow grind”, it’s there for a very good reason. It takes a fraction of the time to resharpen as, obviously, a lot less stock to remove. Common practice with jobbing joiners & carpenters in the UK, completely pointless grinding the back of the chisel flat. Kool channel. By the by, I use plate glass mounted on 18ml ply and the edges are ground. Plate glass was the type that used to be commonly used on retailers shop fronts.
*Rob Cosman seething in the corner of this video*
Why?
@@StumpyNubs I’m just messing around! Rob has such a well-known and meticulous way in which sharpens his chisels/planes/etc that I could see him recoiling in horror from using sandpaper.
Great idea! Can't seem to find the adhesive backed discs in UK though. Any ideas out there?
Get regular sheets and use a spray adhesive to attach it to your flat surface
@@KurtBlanken Duh! I should thought of that! Thanks my friend.
Hi James, quick question... How does the cubitron II 320 grit compare to a 300 grit diamond stone? Will it take longer to flatten on the diamond stone compared to the cubitron II? I am just thinking about long term investment..
Thanks!
Diamond stone will last longer and be cheaper in the long run
that cubitron is impossible to find. Do you have a source? I even contacted 3M US and they have no distributors available.
There is a link in the video description, and pinned to the top of the comments section.
What’s the benefit of those discs vs lapping film (not sandpaper)
What type of lapping film are you referring to? Most lapping film is just very fine sandpaper. I would not use that to flatten the back of a chisel.
@@StumpyNubs just regular 3m AO lapping film with psa on plate glass. A pack of 7 sheets ranging from 300 to 16000 grit goes for about $12. Seems to work better than my diamond plate for new chisels. After that, I just use my diamond plate and a strop to maintain. They last a decent while too especially if you use an eraser to clean them, like you showed in this video.
It's great the discs....HAVE NO HOLES IN THEM
Don’t forget the dress the paper to get rid of the debris. I never use aluminium oxide paper. I use TriMite silicon carbide. Cubitron is great. Trimite is as good as cubitron.
Amazing video but only for EUA 🇺🇸. Australian have to find another way because 3M doesn’t sell them
Gold standard explanation as always. Wonder if they ship to NZ? Awesome as always James. Legend.
Ed, if you’re asking that about Taylor Tools, the answer is probably yes. They certainly ship to Australia, as the 3M disks aren’t available here either.
@@julianwhitta1114 Cheers - will follow up with them. Thanks for the feedback.
What kind of wood were you paring?
Some old yellow pine, I think.
Cheap glass? Get you a Mostly glass bathroom scale from Goodwill. I’ve never been in a Goodwill that didn’t have a least 1, and I’ve never paid over $4 for one.
Cheers!
i first heard the term "scary sharp" back in the mid- late 1990's from chairmaker Mike Dunbar to describe his sandpaper system..................
Why is it necessary to get the back of the chisel completely flat along the whole chisel? As long as it is flat close to the edge it should be fine..
I’m confused by the use of both Cubitron 400 sandpaper and P600 Aluminum Oxide paper. From the various charts I see online (and they don’t agree with each other) ANSI 400 is actually finer than P600.
That hollow on the back is intentional. It is the same with Japanese chisels. You only need about 5mm of flat back beyond the edge. The hollow means you have much less material to remove.
Then after you sharpen the chisel so much that you move the edge too much towards the hollow, you flatten the back some more. Simple and easy.
No, it was not intentional. This isn't a Japanese chisel, which has a carefully placed and formed hollow, combined with a short blade so the heel may be used in conjunction with the tip to replace the reference surface lost by the hollow. A western chisel with a poorly formed dip in the back is not the same thing.
I see videos like this where somebody's using a chisel to shave paper thin curls off of wood, especially off the end of the wood. I know the chisel is super sharp, but how much does the nature of the wood itself affect the ability to do this? If you tried that on the end of, for example, a random 2x4, would it shave as well?
End grain is the most difficult fibers to cut with a chisel, and soft wood is the most difficult of all end grain because the chisel has to be very sharp to cut it cleanly, or else the fibers will crush. That's why you typically see tests shaving soft pine end grain and not hardwood.
@@StumpyNubs If I'm understanding you correctly, you're saying that in fact that end-grain shaves as in your video usually are done with 2x4s, because they're so challenging?
Strange. When did $1.50 for a 6 inch piece of sand paper become reasonable?