My tip would be...stop buying blue tape. Good old fashion general purpose beige/tan masking tape works just fine for quick woodworking jobs, and costs HALF the price :) More expensive Blue tape is intended for painters and their specific needs, so why spend the extra money if your not using it for painting. Just wish this video was there 3 weeks ago when I bought my first spoke shave...yeah I had some sore fingers, lol.
Great video as ever. I stumbled upon the idea of measuring from 10 on my tape measure when an early cheap version got bent and the end piece was about 2mm off. Now I do it routinely as a more accurate way. There is also a bonus tip buried here. The sandpaper stuck to a stick is worth a mention by itself. My first big project was making built in bookcases and I created a variety of sanding sticks to work on the various places that needed sanding. I started with off cuts of plywood but over the years have made a weird assortment of shapes with angled surfaces and canted handles. I also discovered that sticking on off cuts of sanding belts works wonders. They last for ages, can be cleared off with a soft wire brush, will stick down with a bit of superglue and hardly cost more than a few sheets of sandpaper which they outlast about 50 times over. They have been a go to option for years.
“It’s not always the case that you need to buy another tool to get a job done.” Dude!!!! I watched this with my wife! I didn’t need her hearing that. Sigh. Keep on making! ❤
A small round profile stair gauge can work great for this too. I prefer round as opposed to the hex shaped common ones since you gain some accuracy with the round reference face I think.
@eclecticeccles777 both are correct in my opinion. For this trick i have it fence close but for 90 degree cuts the other way around. But I would imagine it depends on the user.
It's great to see you've already got 628 thumbs up before I can even get to your video and I've started looking for Start Making on Saturdays now vs. the olden days when I got to it on Sunday. You understand how far your excellent channel has come? Brilliant. Also, I love the generational differences twixt us; in my day a hack was an amateur (a real ham and egger), now it means a go around. Who knew? Another outstanding production. Thanks for sharing your hard found wood working knowledge with the rest of us and have a great week.
Hi Meat. You sir are as always a gent. And a promotion for me, thank you. But in truth, if there are better ones to watch, I understand. I have a watch order I use too. We are all creatures of habit huh? Very true about hacks too. Personally I dont like the word in a positive sense as it has the cutting meaning too. And saying it's a hack often feels like I am taking a short cut which isnt always good. Interesting. And thank you. Have a great week bud.
@@startmaking1 Always a pleasure. You have really jumped out of the hobbyist woodworker to being quite adept at this craft. I am enjoying every moment of your journey. It is funny how some words could have two meanings contrary to one another. Along with wood working, correct usage of one's language is one of my interests. Any way, stay calm and keep wood working.
I'm a landscaper and I made a rectangle out of 5mm thick plastic ( but could be made from any number of materials) and the two measurements, width and length, are the two offsets from the blade edge on my circular saw to the left and right edges of the base of the saw. It's great for setting up straight edges to cut plywood or any long cuts
Great video, really good tips - especially liked the sharpening and speed square ones - and highly accessible to woodworkers of pretty much any kind or any budget. The video looks very polished, too. Hoping the channel keeps growing! Love your work.
I'm hanging out for your take on dust collection - currently I have the previous house vaccuum connected to a cheap plastic cyclone which drops into a large wooden box I made. Then there's a 3D printed "3 way Y adapter" with blast gates and normal ~2" vac-cleaner hose to the sander, little bandsaw, and a spare port to a cleanup hose which is ~3xhoses butt-joined. Now I've acquired a used tablesaw with a 4" outlet and zero sealing; trying to plan if I need a separate collector for that only, etc. I do have a small compressor which may be relevant.
I am actually upgrading mine as we speak. Will take a little while to do the video but it will be a fun one. Yours sounds great though. I hope mine comes out that well./
My god the channel is growing FAST, 17,000 views in one day. Congrats mate. Oh and this was a fun one, the speed square one is brill. Keep em coming. Have a good un.
Hi Peter. It's hard to keep up sometimes. I am still replying to so many comments. But I am so grateful. Appreciate everyone who, like you, has been part of the ride.
Hi Mark, Full of wonderful ideas and tips, I like the the idea with the speed square to set and keep your angle. Good sharpening jig for your plane blades and scrapers. As always a great video catch you soon Take care
These are some awesome tips, Mark! Thank you for sharing them with us! The speed square tip is so simple, yet genius! I also appreciate the idea for flattening hand plane blades. I have a plane that was my dad’s that I need to make functional before I use it and I will be making one of these jigs. I have the knobs that thread onto bolts, so mine will likely have toggle bolts going from the bottom with the knobs at the top. And thanks for the heads up about watching for knob placement. That’s what made me think about having them on top.
Thank you Damon. Mine actually started out with bolts and they worked fine. I just wanted to leave the top flat. In truth it makes no difference. Having them on top though is definitely the way to go. Only bit of advice is go steady with it. When I go too fast the edge of the iron, the side, wants to dig in and flip the jig. Steady and firm seems the trick and a very slight angle rather than perpendicular. Anyway, I'm sure you will easily sort that iron out. Good luck,
That homemade jig for spoke shaves is brilliant! I’ve always found it tricky to flatten those smaller blades, but adding magnets to hold them steady is such a clever solution. Also, the warning about prying the iron off is a great safety reminder!
Ok so I’m a beginner woodworker-ish and I have a dumb question about one of your tips. When checking for square on the boxes why are you using the inside of the box? Why not go for the outside? That way you can use the hook end of your tape measure, or the zero start of your ruler. In my mind it makes more sense to be worried about the outside squareness rather than the inside. Also wanted to say absolutely loving your vids! Keep up the amazing work!
Not a dumb question at all as it got me thinking for a fair bit. Here is what I think and it could be wrong. I measure the inside so that the thickness of the box itself, ie the thickness of the wood doesnt skew your findings. On most of the boxes I make if the outside is not square by a tiny amount due to an irregularity in the wood, it wont affect anything. But if the inside is not square then there is a good chance it will have a knock on effect on something else. For instance if I then put another set of wood around the inside to protrude out of the top for the lid to sit over and therefore hold it in place, if the inside is not square then the lid will only fit one way. That all said, if I was measuring large cabinets I would measure from the outside, and the same for drawer boxes etc. But then they are often made of pky which is pretty regular and they are larger so a mm wont make too much difference. Basically this comes down to whatever works for you I guess. Hope some of that rambling made sense.
Great video, thanks for all the tips. I've been watching you since the first shed shop, when you first got the trim router, and were scared to death to use it. Now look at you, routing out for T-track like a pro. Excited to see your channel grow! Keep up the good work.
I miss that shed. I also appreciate that you have stuck around this long. I remember getting the router out of the box and being so nervous. Pretty much the same as when I got the table saw early this year. It's quite a journey and I love it. And once again thank you for being part of it.
@@startmaking1 Thanks so much! I struggle getting videos out regularly, but I'm getting better (I think). Give me your honest opinion on anything I could add or change to increase traffic and views.
You got me on the blue tape-router trick. That was genius. I’m also now suffering from mitre gauge envy. Your new one looks like a beast! Great video, Mark. I don’t know where you get time to research, try and edit, let alone live the rest of your life (don’t forget about that bit). Btw, my workbench construction is in progress but I’ve been side-tracked with a commission from the Boss and need to make a shoe rack “a-La-Dainsey” style, so the WB has been pushed back a little. Still, it’s all good and your vids always nudge me on from my procrastination to actually do something instead of polish my cleats. 😂
Thank you Roger. It comes in surprisingly handy. Especially when you are as fly by night as I am. The mitre gauge is a big bit of kit. I was sceptical when I was sent it . But honestly I will only ever use maybe 20% of its features and it is still good. As for time. Well, now the ski sales have kicked back in I will have to lose the social side of life until April. Cant do it all sadly. Funny you mention cleats. I rearranged the main area for the 100th time this week. I get what you mean. Dont worry about the bench. It will get done when the time is right. Just think of the brownie points for the shoe rack. As always, take it easy bud.
If this guy was in my family i'd be round every weekend learning all I could. If you have a guy/gal in your family like this dont pass up on that opportunity.
I have read every comment ever posted on my videos and there have been a lot. Most of them are lovely. But this one is unique and after a while that is hard to find. So thank you. Really appreciated.,
The speed-square tip was pretty good. As a machinist, I would probably make a shoulder sliding stop with a screw to fit into the slot allowing it to be locked as I've rarely had much success using tape
Cracking video again mate some really good tips in there. Those mitre gauges look the business even the cheaper not hongdui one. Need upgrade mine some point. Will share this. Catch up soon mate 🏴👍
Thank you Iain. Hand planes are tricky to recommend. I love the vintage ones but a newer one gives you confidence quickly. So it depends on experience I guess. Diamond stones I have were only around £30 I believe and they are still going strong. But some cheap ones have the diamonds attached a different way and tend to rub off eventually. I have to say if I could only have 2 hand planes at the start it would be a vintage stanley 5 or 51/2 with a block plane or a new stanley sweatheart low angle jack plane. Though there are many more options out there.
I do have a job site table saw (due to space limitations in my small shop area) and also found the miter gauge lacking. My very first accessory purchase was an Incra V27 ($80 US) and couldn't be happier. Great tool at a reasonable price. On the holder for the spoke shave blades.... My issue is sharpening rather than flattening. Veritas has a short blade holder ($67 US), but I have tried to create my own jig to hold the blade at the correct angle while also keeping a good hold on the blade. Maybe a future jig idea & video????? :)
Incra make some brilliant tools. Not sure it is such good value over here sadly. Sharpening spoke shave is a real art in my opinion. certainly not one I have perfected. But the jig sounds really smart. I am now going to obsess on it until I make it. Thank you.
Those tips were all great and while I already knew some of them, some of them were new. The speed square one though is something i've been doing for a while, but make a block with a bolt thru it and a washer and wingnut and put it through the narrow slot on the T-square and you have an easily adjustable angle gauge that can be locked and moved... But the thing that wasn't even mentioned in this video but is the best take away is that chisel holder. That's genius man, i'm making one of them for a few other things. Do you have a video on making that?
Now that idea is absolute simple genius bud. Thank you. There is a video for the chisel holder. It is about 10 videos ago. One of my all time favourite builds. Nothing too complicated either. Thank you for noticing.
Great video, Mark. I too purchased an upgrade mitre guage. The problem is that my table saw has the same infeed depth as yours and it really needs the added depth or else the weight is too much on the left side. I use the small DeWalt guage with insulating tape to make it snug. The heavier guage does work great on the router table but I need to make an Indeed table.
Thank you James. You are right about the indeed support. I have a rough support but you lose accuracy. I kind of wish I had sunk the saw a little deeper into the table. But I will figure something out. Hopefully.
My initial reaction to the trick with the blue tape on the router base is to wonder if it wouldn't have been easier to rout a dovetail groove and use dovetail clamps? The price of dovetail grooves compares very favorably with t-tracks. That said, I'm sure I'll use the tip at some point. Keep up the good work!
This is very true. In this case it was for fitting a support bracket so clamps were not permanent enough. But overall you are spot on. Way better priced.
Probably better if I am honest. It is one of my biggest weaknesses. But I did learn that the editing is only as good as the filming. And that did really help.
I wish I would have thought of that speed square and block trick when making my last project as I had the exact same layout lines to draw. Also I’m going to have to apologize in advance about spoke shaves for this next Fridays video (you’ll see). I feel like we have quite a bit of parallel thinking going on, it’s weird. Great video buddy.
I cant wait and no need to apologise. Im just seeing the parallel thinking as a compliment. You are way beyond where I am at in woodworking so at least I know I am heading in the right direction.
@@startmaking1 oh I don’t know about that. We all tend to find the sub-discipline of woodworking that we are good at, but are shit at another. I Always look forward to your videos buddy, keep up the good work.
For that busted insert, you could use a plug cutter to cut the insert out and then use a plug and some glue to fill the hole. I’ve never seen one of those snap before. You must have taken a double dose of your vitamins that morning! 💪 😂 For the box, you can also use that machinist’s square on the outside corners as well to check for squareness. But the tape measure trick is a good one. The blue tape can also be applied to the guide piece of scrap - far easier than sticking it to the router. In my opinion, anyway. Thanks for the video - great stuff, as always!
Now that is a smart fix. I was genuinely going to fill it with putty and forget it was there lol. These were seriously cheap inserts. Not furniture grade at all. And thank you for the advice. All good.
@@startmaking1 If you have any more of those inserts, it might help to lubricate them with some wax - they might slip in easier. I was also just now wondering what would happen if you chucked them in some ice water before you put them in your piece of wood? They might shrink just enough that they’d slide right in, and then warm back up and re-expand … they might never come back out, but at the same time, that’s not usually a problem 😂 Just thinking out loud! 🤷🏻 If we all share our tips and ideas, we can all work smarter!
I usually stick the blue tape to the guide/fence when I need to add a fraction of a millimeter to the routed groove. Uses a bit more tape, but there's less chance the tape will move on me during the cut.
@@startmaking1 Typical eh! The only thing with them, is they have sides, like a nut, maybe I’ll round them off for better accuracy, but they do work well. Best of luck and thanks for your tips. 👍
Argh. I am so confused from watching different channels. I know what I will do. I will start my own system. Thats what woodworking needs. Maybe measure in widths of spaghetti, uncooked of course. Hope you are doing well bud. I imagine you're back at work now. Hope the lovely front of the house is done.
@startmaking1 heights of a hair....that way it's totally arbitrary due to our lack of follicle prowess 🤣🤣🤣. Great stuff as always. And that spoke shave jig is going to come in handy pretty soon on my end
5:00 there are tools to help magnetize or demagnetize tools like irons or screwdrivers. 9:45 The fact that the knob sits on the table could also be an aid to getting the bevel edge. A bit of clever design & you can replace that front knob with a small roller so once you flip the iron you can put that angle of bevel onto the stone at the bench height. 15:25 We call this " burn an inch " where you start you measurement one inch in from the end. Pick any number if your first inch is damaged on your tape but at that pt you should to replace that one.
The aftermarket mitre gauge is great IF your table saw has a 3/4" mitre slot... most budget table saws (at least in the UK) have narrower slots that only fit the gauge it comes with, and there aren't any aftermarket ones that fit the narrower slots
Starting at not zero was one of the first things I ever learned. The second thing was to NOT forget to account for that extra arbitrary number you start at.
A much simpler alternative to magnets is rubbing some beeswax onto the wood. It sticks like super tape to saw blades, etc. and is easy to peel 'em off after sharpening them. I sharpen chisels, saws, even lawnmower blades with some beeswax rubbed onto some hardwood.
When measuring corner to corner for square on rectangular boxes, assuming your board faces are thicknesses parallel to each other, just measure the outside corners, it really is easier.
H Henry. You are definitely right. But I was not assuming the boards were of equal thickness. I know as a beginner without a thickness planer, mine were often slightly off.
As for the T yrack, dint use aT track. Use a T router bit - that cuts the track directly into the jig wood. As long as you route a straight line, no adjustments are necessary.
To take slop out of the miter gauge runner, flip it over and hit it with a punch at three or so places along its length. That will widen the runner enough to take up the slack, and it runs perfectly. Take it easy and do the punches in a few tries, so you don’t overdo it.
Double sided tape or hot glue some wood on the back to avoid magnets and recess cutting? If a recess is mandatory then surely gluing two thin sides to a flat surface would ensure more accuracy without needing to get the chisels out.
You are spot on about the gluing of 2 strips in. I got lost in my design there. Double sided tape is a tricky one because water and heat tend to cause it issues in my experience. Hot glue would work but maybe too well lol. Brilliant advice though, thank you.
@@startmaking1 Cheers. FWIW there are different holding strengths of hot glue sticks all easy to remove with isopropanol. Useful to have around the workshop. (As there are with DST :)
If you need to divide a wide board into several equal parts along the length that is not a round number wide like 17.7cm and you need 4 strips from it don't try complicated maths. Lay a rule across the board at an angle until it reads a number greater than the width of the board that is easy to divide by 4 - say 20cm, then mark the 5cm the 10cm and 15cm points with the ruler still at an angle, move the ruler down a bit and repeat then join the two marks the rule along the length and you have 4 even width strips
You could do a bit on making and using pinch sticks. I don't think much of your speed square tip. Taping on fiddly bits of wood is asking for trouble. . Just make a custom speed square. Any scrap of wood, mark and cut the angle. Label the angle both sides, in your example 85/5 degrees, and tack or screw on a guide piece. Save it for the next project. After a bit you will have a half dozen in sizes you actually use.
If you placed a thin piece of plastic under your magnetic boards before attaching any metal you wanted to file, when finished, you could remove your flattened metal piece then remove the plastic from the board no longer pinched by the plastic, just the shavings and viola...no shavings on the magnet and no need to clean the board.
For the box, you don't have to measure(actually, shouldn't, for the same reasons you listed against the rulers) the inside of the box. Measure the OUTSIDE edge corner to opposite edge corner. The you have a clear point to measure from and to.
Rather than the block of wood on the speed square, perhaps you could drill and tap some holes along the fence, then you could wind a screw in or out to fix the angle. I have a few cheapo speed squares from Lidl that I wouldn't mind butchering in this way!
Instead of using threaded inserts and putting knobs on the bottom (on top of the plane blade), insert carriage bolts through the plane blade and screw the knobs onto the carriage bolts.
This would work great. And in fact it was my initial plan but I changed it only because I had some threaded inserts and wanted the top to be smooth to hold. Silly really.
I don’t want to be critical but why would you want to flatten all that area on a plane iron, just use the ruler trick as explained by “Rob Cosman “ which will take you a fraction of the time and give you a sharp edge with less effort
I guess it depends on if you use that method or not. Personally I do but for an older iron in need of a good working over I would still flatten further back. Especially as you will get there anyway with enough sharpening over tine, A newer plane I would just do the ruler technique. It's a good point though.
@ because all that sticking bits of wood to squares seems wasted effort? All the RUclips videos do strange things hardly ever use Bevel so easy to set up and just turn over for perfect copies. I wasn’t being critical just wondering?
@voyager8195 I know, I was curious. You are right, for marking it is perfect. But for running your circular saw among a bevel gauge is too thin. I can't recall if I explained that this was my aim in the video. It is a little cumbersome though for sure.
Great video. For the ill fitting mitre gauge, layers of blue tape down the side can help (did this on my temu one I got recently). Also, a pack of cards is also useful to have in the workshop to help with incremental changes. Especially useful for packing out drawer faces I understand
Brilliant advice Chris. And the cards are invaluable. Especially if you are like me and just cant get things quite right. They shim a lot of things in my workshop.
There are probably 500 things that people have done with speed squares and I’m pretty sure that if you made a tips video of nothing but speed square tips you can get a pretty good video out of it. I tried reading the manual that comes with a Swanson speed square once, and it’s wild what you can do with one
That is so true and there are 2 reasons I have not done a video on it. 1 is that there are already a few from people far more knowledgeable than me and 2. and this is the important one. I have no clue what that book even says lol. It's mind blowing.
@@startmaking1 just think, there were guys that were the most high-speed that you’ve ever seen climbing up on top of a roof with a tool belt a speed square and a circular saw dragging extension cord and building some stuff on the spot. Some people didn’t have the benefit of having an entire crew on the ground manufacturing pieces for them and passing them up.
@@liquidrockaquatics3900 Um...here "were?" A lot of us still do that, so it's more of there "are." Granted, cordless tools have eliminated the extension cord for some, but the rest of the process remains unchanged.
@@ST-0311 not many people do it alone though. It’s far more common to have someone on the ground cutting while the person in the rafters is measuring and fastening. If they don’t just order the entire truss package and have it delivered. That’s what I see 90% of the time (probably 99% for houses, not barns though)
@@liquidrockaquatics3900 Please quantify "Not many" for me, because I count millions that do. What you are describing is how a full framing crew operates, and it nothing new. That's how it was done when I did framing and general construction 40 years ago. However, back then - and still today - millions of small contractors, handymen, remodelers, and DIY'ers don't have the luxury nor need for a designated cutman on the ground. Barns, yes. Also there are sheds, workshops, carports, gazebos, decks, porches, dormers, skylights, and all sorts of modifications or add-ons don't require a full crew. There are also still small residential construction outfits that frame entire houses with a small (2 to 4) crew and no designated cutman. In fact, Shannon of @HouseImprovements is currently building a large cabin mostly by himself, if you care to see how it's done. All of these people still carry their own saws and speed squares, and they often build in place. As for trusses: They are fast and simple for a gable ended roof. However, hips and valleys mostly need to be stick built. Hip and valley rafters often need to be modified in place. Therefore, one will still find speed squares and saws up in the roof framing regardless of having someone on the ground.
Why put the blue tape on the router, put the blue tape on the straight edge. This is much easier. I use tape as a shim all the time. Been using duct tape in multiple layers with a roller to get it as flat as I can to shim out plywood that needs to be exactly 3/4" or as close to 3/4" that I can get. Get stair gauges for the speed square. Much easier to setup for repeated cuts and easier to lock into place. If the thickness of the wood is all the same, you do not need to measure the inside corners. If you have access to the outside corners, you can hook the tape measure in the center on the outside corner and pull across. You will have to shift the tape to the right or left a bit to get a reading but the actual value does not matter. It is all about the alignment with that value. Just make sure to remember which way you want, to the right or left to be consistent. While it should not matter because the hook is centered, it is always best to be consistent.
You make a good point. But I was thinking about using less tape. Great idea with the duct tape by the way. And stair gauges. I will have to take a look.
If checking for squareness, why bother subtracting the starting number? If your measurement is 30 from starting at 10, all you care about is doing the same thing for the other angle and ending up with 30. If you get 28 for the second measurement what matters is 30 - 28, meaning you need to shift to shorten the longer distance by half of (30 - 28), or 1. The 10 is not important in calculating for checking squareness.
Great tips but just out of interest, for checking square on the box, the numbers are irrelevant, just as long as they are the same numbers on both diagonals.
YEs thats right. If the diagonals are the same length then the box is square along that plane. Worth checking the sides are all plumb too. If that is the right work for perpendicular to your base.
Forget all that sharpening stuff, it's way too complicated. Learn how to freehand sharpen. In this clip, Rex Kruger tells you how, and why: ruclips.net/video/EmyW8nFDLr4/видео.htmlsi=i5hAQ7omJeIoVl6j That said, don't use oil stones, buy a diamond stone instead.
What's You favourite tip to give fellow woodworkers?
My tip would be...stop buying blue tape. Good old fashion general purpose beige/tan masking tape works just fine for quick woodworking jobs, and costs HALF the price :) More expensive Blue tape is intended for painters and their specific needs, so why spend the extra money if your not using it for painting. Just wish this video was there 3 weeks ago when I bought my first spoke shave...yeah I had some sore fingers, lol.
@@startmaking1 CA glue and activator can be your best friend and polyurethane glue can also be a god send 👍🏴
Be careful.
That there's good stuff on RUclips!
never rely on a ruler
rely on the rule
Great video as ever.
I stumbled upon the idea of measuring from 10 on my tape measure when an early cheap version got bent and the end piece was about 2mm off. Now I do it routinely as a more accurate way.
There is also a bonus tip buried here. The sandpaper stuck to a stick is worth a mention by itself. My first big project was making built in bookcases and I created a variety of sanding sticks to work on the various places that needed sanding. I started with off cuts of plywood but over the years have made a weird assortment of shapes with angled surfaces and canted handles. I also discovered that sticking on off cuts of sanding belts works wonders. They last for ages, can be cleared off with a soft wire brush, will stick down with a bit of superglue and hardly cost more than a few sheets of sandpaper which they outlast about 50 times over. They have been a go to option for years.
I was taught (in the US) to "burn an inch" when needing to make precise measurements similar to the one in the video
THats is truly great advice. I love a sanding stick.
Fantastic. A big mindset shift on tools and how the user shift his view over the tool functionality. Thanks so much indeed.
Thank you very much. I appreciate it.
“It’s not always the case that you need to buy another tool to get a job done.” Dude!!!! I watched this with my wife! I didn’t need her hearing that.
Sigh.
Keep on making! ❤
This made me laugh so hard. Thank you and I am very sorry lol.
That speed-square tip is excellent.
Thank you Chris. A handy bodge
A small round profile stair gauge can work great for this too. I prefer round as opposed to the hex shaped common ones since you gain some accuracy with the round reference face I think.
speed square is the wrong way around. It's easier to control if the fence piece is away from you. Less likely to move
@eclecticeccles777 both are correct in my opinion. For this trick i have it fence close but for 90 degree cuts the other way around. But I would imagine it depends on the user.
It's great to see you've already got 628 thumbs up before I can even get to your video and I've started looking for Start Making on Saturdays now vs. the olden days when I got to it on Sunday. You understand how far your excellent channel has come? Brilliant. Also, I love the generational differences twixt us; in my day a hack was an amateur (a real ham and egger), now it means a go around. Who knew? Another outstanding production. Thanks for sharing your hard found wood working knowledge with the rest of us and have a great week.
Hi Meat. You sir are as always a gent. And a promotion for me, thank you. But in truth, if there are better ones to watch, I understand. I have a watch order I use too. We are all creatures of habit huh? Very true about hacks too. Personally I dont like the word in a positive sense as it has the cutting meaning too. And saying it's a hack often feels like I am taking a short cut which isnt always good. Interesting. And thank you. Have a great week bud.
@@startmaking1 Always a pleasure. You have really jumped out of the hobbyist woodworker to being quite adept at this craft. I am enjoying every moment of your journey. It is funny how some words could have two meanings contrary to one another. Along with wood working, correct usage of one's language is one of my interests. Any way, stay calm and keep wood working.
I'm a landscaper and I made a rectangle out of 5mm thick plastic ( but could be made from any number of materials) and the two measurements, width and length, are the two offsets from the blade edge on my circular saw to the left and right edges of the base of the saw. It's great for setting up straight edges to cut plywood or any long cuts
I really like this idea. I am tired of constantly measuring the off set. Thank you
Great video, really good tips - especially liked the sharpening and speed square ones - and highly accessible to woodworkers of pretty much any kind or any budget. The video looks very polished, too. Hoping the channel keeps growing! Love your work.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate the extra line about the video quality as I do spend a lot of time trying to get that right.
@@startmaking1 It shows!
I'm hanging out for your take on dust collection - currently I have the previous house vaccuum connected to a cheap plastic cyclone which drops into a large wooden box I made. Then there's a 3D printed "3 way Y adapter" with blast gates and normal ~2" vac-cleaner hose to the sander, little bandsaw, and a spare port to a cleanup hose which is ~3xhoses butt-joined.
Now I've acquired a used tablesaw with a 4" outlet and zero sealing; trying to plan if I need a separate collector for that only, etc.
I do have a small compressor which may be relevant.
I am actually upgrading mine as we speak. Will take a little while to do the video but it will be a fun one. Yours sounds great though. I hope mine comes out that well./
My god the channel is growing FAST, 17,000 views in one day.
Congrats mate. Oh and this was a fun one, the speed square one is brill.
Keep em coming.
Have a good un.
Hi Peter. It's hard to keep up sometimes. I am still replying to so many comments. But I am so grateful. Appreciate everyone who, like you, has been part of the ride.
Nice share Mark. I use the speed square and preset wedges on my shooting board for small trim jobs as I am too cheap to buy a mitre shooting board.
Now that is a good, no great addition to this tip. Brilliant.
Hi Mark, Full of wonderful ideas and tips, I like the the idea with the speed square to set and keep your angle. Good sharpening jig for your plane blades and scrapers. As always a great video catch you soon Take care
Hi Shaun. Thank you bud, Hopefully they will help a few people. You never know. lol. Take it easy bud.
These are some awesome tips, Mark! Thank you for sharing them with us! The speed square tip is so simple, yet genius!
I also appreciate the idea for flattening hand plane blades. I have a plane that was my dad’s that I need to make functional before I use it and I will be making one of these jigs. I have the knobs that thread onto bolts, so mine will likely have toggle bolts going from the bottom with the knobs at the top. And thanks for the heads up about watching for knob placement. That’s what made me think about having them on top.
Thank you Damon. Mine actually started out with bolts and they worked fine. I just wanted to leave the top flat. In truth it makes no difference. Having them on top though is definitely the way to go. Only bit of advice is go steady with it. When I go too fast the edge of the iron, the side, wants to dig in and flip the jig. Steady and firm seems the trick and a very slight angle rather than perpendicular. Anyway, I'm sure you will easily sort that iron out. Good luck,
@@startmaking1 Thank you for the additional tips!!
That homemade jig for spoke shaves is brilliant! I’ve always found it tricky to flatten those smaller blades, but adding magnets to hold them steady is such a clever solution. Also, the warning about prying the iron off is a great safety reminder!
That's really kind. Thank you bud
Ok so I’m a beginner woodworker-ish and I have a dumb question about one of your tips. When checking for square on the boxes why are you using the inside of the box? Why not go for the outside? That way you can use the hook end of your tape measure, or the zero start of your ruler. In my mind it makes more sense to be worried about the outside squareness rather than the inside.
Also wanted to say absolutely loving your vids! Keep up the amazing work!
I was just preparing to say the same thing, about
squaring the box and here you are.
@@davidbuckley9743: Yeah, I think we got that.
P.S.: You can edit your comments by clicking on
the three dots, to the right of your comment. 😁✌🖖
@@zapa1pnt done! Thanks for that. Couldn’t find it earlier.
Not a dumb question at all as it got me thinking for a fair bit. Here is what I think and it could be wrong. I measure the inside so that the thickness of the box itself, ie the thickness of the wood doesnt skew your findings. On most of the boxes I make if the outside is not square by a tiny amount due to an irregularity in the wood, it wont affect anything. But if the inside is not square then there is a good chance it will have a knock on effect on something else. For instance if I then put another set of wood around the inside to protrude out of the top for the lid to sit over and therefore hold it in place, if the inside is not square then the lid will only fit one way. That all said, if I was measuring large cabinets I would measure from the outside, and the same for drawer boxes etc. But then they are often made of pky which is pretty regular and they are larger so a mm wont make too much difference. Basically this comes down to whatever works for you I guess. Hope some of that rambling made sense.
@@startmaking1 absolutely makes sense! I hadn’t thought about wooden inserts to hold the lid in place. Thanks so much for replying!
Great video, thanks for all the tips. I've been watching you since the first shed shop, when you first got the trim router, and were scared to death to use it. Now look at you, routing out for T-track like a pro. Excited to see your channel grow! Keep up the good work.
I miss that shed. I also appreciate that you have stuck around this long. I remember getting the router out of the box and being so nervous. Pretty much the same as when I got the table saw early this year. It's quite a journey and I love it. And once again thank you for being part of it.
PS I am your 200th sub
@@startmaking1 Thanks so much! I struggle getting videos out regularly, but I'm getting better (I think). Give me your honest opinion on anything I could add or change to increase traffic and views.
I will do. Not that I really know what I am doing at all.
I like your chisel rack AND the blue tape tricks. ALL GOOD STUFF! !! !!!
Thank you very much.
@@startmaking1 Have you got plans for that chisel rack please?? Or a video ? Thanks
@@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924 the video is up on the channel. It had a picture on the thumb nail. Sadly no plans
You got me on the blue tape-router trick. That was genius.
I’m also now suffering from mitre gauge envy. Your new one looks like a beast!
Great video, Mark. I don’t know where you get time to research, try and edit, let alone live the rest of your life (don’t forget about that bit).
Btw, my workbench construction is in progress but I’ve been side-tracked with a commission from the Boss and need to make a shoe rack “a-La-Dainsey” style, so the WB has been pushed back a little. Still, it’s all good and your vids always nudge me on from my procrastination to actually do something instead of polish my cleats. 😂
Thank you Roger. It comes in surprisingly handy. Especially when you are as fly by night as I am. The mitre gauge is a big bit of kit. I was sceptical when I was sent it . But honestly I will only ever use maybe 20% of its features and it is still good. As for time. Well, now the ski sales have kicked back in I will have to lose the social side of life until April. Cant do it all sadly. Funny you mention cleats. I rearranged the main area for the 100th time this week. I get what you mean. Dont worry about the bench. It will get done when the time is right. Just think of the brownie points for the shoe rack. As always, take it easy bud.
@@Bluuuz 🫣when your mitre gauge costs 3 times my table saw!
If this guy was in my family i'd be round every weekend learning all I could. If you have a guy/gal in your family like this dont pass up on that opportunity.
I have read every comment ever posted on my videos and there have been a lot. Most of them are lovely. But this one is unique and after a while that is hard to find. So thank you. Really appreciated.,
The speed-square tip was pretty good.
As a machinist, I would probably make a shoulder sliding stop with a screw to fit into the slot allowing it to be locked as I've rarely had much success using tape
I have just bought 2 stair gauges to attach. I will test before I give any feedback.
@@startmaking1 What's a stair gauge?
@@1crazypj like a metal clip with a threaded bolt you can slide and tighten
@@startmaking1 I'l have to look it up as I've never seen one. Thanks
Cracking video again mate some really good tips in there. Those mitre gauges look the business even the cheaper not hongdui one. Need upgrade mine some point. Will share this. Catch up soon mate 🏴👍
Hey Michael. Thank you mate. Apologies for the radio silence. Just slammed at the moment.
@@startmaking1 no worries mate a no your busy juggling whole load stuff catch up soon though 👍🏴
Using the blue tape is brilliant. Thanks
Thank you very much.
There are some awesome tips there. Keep them coming... need to 'research' (purchase) the diamond sharpening blocks and a couple of hand planes 😊
Thank you Iain. Hand planes are tricky to recommend. I love the vintage ones but a newer one gives you confidence quickly. So it depends on experience I guess. Diamond stones I have were only around £30 I believe and they are still going strong. But some cheap ones have the diamonds attached a different way and tend to rub off eventually. I have to say if I could only have 2 hand planes at the start it would be a vintage stanley 5 or 51/2 with a block plane or a new stanley sweatheart low angle jack plane. Though there are many more options out there.
@@startmaking1 thanks Mark. I really appreciate your advice 😉
I do have a job site table saw (due to space limitations in my small shop area) and also found the miter gauge lacking. My very first accessory purchase was an Incra V27 ($80 US) and couldn't be happier. Great tool at a reasonable price.
On the holder for the spoke shave blades.... My issue is sharpening rather than flattening. Veritas has a short blade holder ($67 US), but I have tried to create my own jig to hold the blade at the correct angle while also keeping a good hold on the blade. Maybe a future jig idea & video????? :)
Incra make some brilliant tools. Not sure it is such good value over here sadly. Sharpening spoke shave is a real art in my opinion. certainly not one I have perfected. But the jig sounds really smart. I am now going to obsess on it until I make it. Thank you.
Those tips were all great and while I already knew some of them, some of them were new. The speed square one though is something i've been doing for a while, but make a block with a bolt thru it and a washer and wingnut and put it through the narrow slot on the T-square and you have an easily adjustable angle gauge that can be locked and moved...
But the thing that wasn't even mentioned in this video but is the best take away is that chisel holder. That's genius man, i'm making one of them for a few other things. Do you have a video on making that?
Now that idea is absolute simple genius bud. Thank you. There is a video for the chisel holder. It is about 10 videos ago. One of my all time favourite builds. Nothing too complicated either. Thank you for noticing.
@@startmaking1 cool, I’m checking that chisel holder video out now, I must’ve missed that!
That last tip was great! Use what you have well instead of buying a new tool :)
Thank you
fantastic video as usual - speedsquare miter tip is killer.
Thank you so much.
That speed square tip is brilliant 😊
Thank you Richard.
Veritas tools come with blade backs beautifully honed flat. Saves a lot of work.
THats great to know. Thank you
Great video, Mark. I too purchased an upgrade mitre guage. The problem is that my table saw has the same infeed depth as yours and it really needs the added depth or else the weight is too much on the left side. I use the small DeWalt guage with insulating tape to make it snug. The heavier guage does work great on the router table but I need to make an Indeed table.
Thank you James. You are right about the indeed support. I have a rough support but you lose accuracy. I kind of wish I had sunk the saw a little deeper into the table. But I will figure something out. Hopefully.
My initial reaction to the trick with the blue tape on the router base is to wonder if it wouldn't have been easier to rout a dovetail groove and use dovetail clamps? The price of dovetail grooves compares very favorably with t-tracks. That said, I'm sure I'll use the tip at some point. Keep up the good work!
This is very true. In this case it was for fitting a support bracket so clamps were not permanent enough. But overall you are spot on. Way better priced.
Love your style. One day, I'll be able to edit like you, nice video 👍
Probably better if I am honest. It is one of my biggest weaknesses. But I did learn that the editing is only as good as the filming. And that did really help.
Great tips as always Mark. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks bud. Much appreciated
Top work Mark, as always, thank you
Thank you very much Paul.
As always... Solid content pal.
Appreciated
Thank you. Much appreciated.
I wish I would have thought of that speed square and block trick when making my last project as I had the exact same layout lines to draw. Also I’m going to have to apologize in advance about spoke shaves for this next Fridays video (you’ll see). I feel like we have quite a bit of parallel thinking going on, it’s weird. Great video buddy.
I cant wait and no need to apologise. Im just seeing the parallel thinking as a compliment. You are way beyond where I am at in woodworking so at least I know I am heading in the right direction.
@@startmaking1 oh I don’t know about that. We all tend to find the sub-discipline of woodworking that we are good at, but are shit at another. I Always look forward to your videos buddy, keep up the good work.
@Stillworks this much is true. Likewise bud.
Very nice trips. Love the speed square trick.
Thank you very much.
For that busted insert, you could use a plug cutter to cut the insert out and then use a plug and some glue to fill the hole. I’ve never seen one of those snap before. You must have taken a double dose of your vitamins that morning! 💪 😂
For the box, you can also use that machinist’s square on the outside corners as well to check for squareness. But the tape measure trick is a good one.
The blue tape can also be applied to the guide piece of scrap - far easier than sticking it to the router. In my opinion, anyway.
Thanks for the video - great stuff, as always!
Now that is a smart fix. I was genuinely going to fill it with putty and forget it was there lol. These were seriously cheap inserts. Not furniture grade at all. And thank you for the advice. All good.
@@startmaking1
If you have any more of those inserts, it might help to lubricate them with some wax - they might slip in easier.
I was also just now wondering what would happen if you chucked them in some ice water before you put them in your piece of wood? They might shrink just enough that they’d slide right in, and then warm back up and re-expand … they might never come back out, but at the same time, that’s not usually a problem 😂 Just thinking out loud! 🤷🏻
If we all share our tips and ideas, we can all work smarter!
I will give it a shot. Thank you. Ice water is super smart but I am not sure I have that kind of patience lol.
@@startmaking1
It wouldn’t take but a two-minute swim - they aren’t that big 😂😂
I usually stick the blue tape to the guide/fence when I need to add a fraction of a millimeter to the routed groove. Uses a bit more tape, but there's less chance the tape will move on me during the cut.
Great idea. Whatever gets the job done. Nothing that works is wrong.
These were great tips. Thank you.
Thank you very much.
For flattening thr iron, i just use a strong magnet to grip it and it works just as well.
I like that idea. So simple. Really short video though . lol.
I have chisels and planes and I realise they aren’t sharp! Which stone grits do you recommend
The three that I have are 400, 600 and 1000. But I also use a strop at the end.
Great tips! I've learned a lot here!
Thank you very much.
I found ‘stair gauges’ are great for repeat angles when attached to speed squares and roofing squares.
It's funny, I saw a short of a guy using one maybe 2 weeks after I had finished filming this. I was planning on including it in my end of year video.
@@startmaking1 Typical eh! The only thing with them, is they have sides, like a nut, maybe I’ll round them off for better accuracy, but they do work well. Best of luck and thanks for your tips. 👍
@@spitNsawdust They do make round ones as well
For the plane iron flattening jig, why not drill thru holes, use carriage bolts and star knobs on top?
I did originally but for some unknown reason I decided to go this way. I dont know why.
Brilliant 👍
Thank you David
Just brilliant!
🤗
Thank you Martin.
Great Tips
Thank you very much.
07:12 INCH!?!?! Mark, Mark, Mark....I didn't peg you for a convert to the Evil Imperial side 😂😂😂
Argh. I am so confused from watching different channels. I know what I will do. I will start my own system. Thats what woodworking needs. Maybe measure in widths of spaghetti, uncooked of course. Hope you are doing well bud. I imagine you're back at work now. Hope the lovely front of the house is done.
@startmaking1 heights of a hair....that way it's totally arbitrary due to our lack of follicle prowess 🤣🤣🤣. Great stuff as always. And that spoke shave jig is going to come in handy pretty soon on my end
5:00 there are tools to help magnetize or demagnetize tools like irons or screwdrivers.
9:45 The fact that the knob sits on the table could also be an aid to getting the bevel edge. A bit of clever design & you can replace that front knob with a small roller so once you flip the iron you can put that angle of bevel onto the stone at the bench height.
15:25 We call this " burn an inch " where you start you measurement one inch in from the end. Pick any number if your first inch is damaged on your tape but at that pt you should to replace that one.
Thank you so much for all the advice. Really appreciate it.
The aftermarket mitre gauge is great IF your table saw has a 3/4" mitre slot... most budget table saws (at least in the UK) have narrower slots that only fit the gauge it comes with, and there aren't any aftermarket ones that fit the narrower slots
Thats a really good point. I guess I got lucky here as I didnt even check. Thank you for bringing that up.
Starting at not zero was one of the first things I ever learned. The second thing was to NOT forget to account for that extra arbitrary number you start at.
Very sound advice.
A much simpler alternative to magnets is rubbing some beeswax onto the wood. It sticks like super tape to saw blades, etc. and is easy to peel 'em off after sharpening them. I sharpen chisels, saws, even lawnmower blades with some beeswax rubbed onto some hardwood.
I have never tried this. I am going to now though. Thank you.
One can also use the blue tape on a flimsy miter gauge until it's upgraded. Just add tape to the miter bar to snug up the fit in the track.
Brilliant advice.
Great video.
Thank you kindly.
great tips Thanks for posting
Thank you
When measuring corner to corner for square on rectangular boxes, assuming your board faces are thicknesses parallel to each other, just measure the outside corners, it really is easier.
H Henry. You are definitely right. But I was not assuming the boards were of equal thickness. I know as a beginner without a thickness planer, mine were often slightly off.
@6.23 you got a serious DING in that blade
I know Bruce. Came like that and I spent tine flattening the back before I noticed quite how bad it was.
As for the T yrack, dint use aT track. Use a T router bit - that cuts the track directly into the jig wood. As long as you route a straight line, no adjustments are necessary.
Very good advice. Thank you.
To take slop out of the miter gauge runner, flip it over and hit it with a punch at three or so places along its length. That will widen the runner enough to take up the slack, and it runs perfectly.
Take it easy and do the punches in a few tries, so you don’t overdo it.
Thank you ,.Great advice. I will take a look.
You can measure the outside of the box instead of the inside to check for square then the tape measure works. Especially true when the box is big
You can but then wood thickness plays a part. Maybe not an issue in most cases. But could be a problem in others .
@@startmaking1 the geometry is the same either way and should not matter.
@kenerickson4923 very true for perfectly milled wood. Less so did uneven, beginner builds let's say. But yes it is in 99 cases out of 100. Very true
Good video rkid well done carnt go wrong ha ha
Appreciate that bud. Thank you.
I thought you didn't need water for diamond stones? Is it just better to do it that way?
I have always used water as a lubricant . I dont think they work well dry.
Very interesting
Thank you very much.
Double sided tape or hot glue some wood on the back to avoid magnets and recess cutting? If a recess is mandatory then surely gluing two thin sides to a flat surface would ensure more accuracy without needing to get the chisels out.
You are spot on about the gluing of 2 strips in. I got lost in my design there. Double sided tape is a tricky one because water and heat tend to cause it issues in my experience. Hot glue would work but maybe too well lol. Brilliant advice though, thank you.
@@startmaking1 Cheers. FWIW there are different holding strengths of hot glue sticks all easy to remove with isopropanol. Useful to have around the workshop. (As there are with DST :)
@@jimlad01 thank you. Honestly, I had no idea.
rubber from an old innertube glued to a block of wood and a couple dowels protruding trough the rubber is a lot easier to make..
Which one are you using that for
If you need to divide a wide board into several equal parts along the length that is not a round number wide like 17.7cm and you need 4 strips from it don't try complicated maths. Lay a rule across the board at an angle until it reads a number greater than the width of the board that is easy to divide by 4 - say 20cm, then mark the 5cm the 10cm and 15cm points with the ruler still at an angle, move the ruler down a bit and repeat then join the two marks the rule along the length and you have 4 even width strips
Now this is a great tip. Thank you.
You could do a bit on making and using pinch sticks. I don't think much of your speed square tip. Taping on fiddly bits of wood is asking for trouble. . Just make a custom speed square. Any scrap of wood, mark and cut the angle. Label the angle both sides, in your example 85/5 degrees, and tack or screw on a guide piece. Save it for the next project. After a bit you will have a half dozen in sizes you actually use.
That is true. And great advice . Thank you
Sensible money savers. Great tips.
Hey Adam. Thank you bud. Really appreciated.
Thanks.
Thank you .
If you placed a thin piece of plastic under your magnetic boards before attaching any metal you wanted to file, when finished, you could remove your flattened metal piece then remove the plastic from the board no longer pinched by the plastic, just the shavings and viola...no shavings on the magnet and no need to clean the board.
Thats is simple genius and I love it, Thank you
For the box, you don't have to measure(actually, shouldn't, for the same reasons you listed against the rulers) the inside of the box. Measure the OUTSIDE edge corner to opposite edge corner. The you have a clear point to measure from and to.
I just worry that the wood may be different thickness. But if milled correctly you are right.
Rather than the block of wood on the speed square, perhaps you could drill and tap some holes along the fence, then you could wind a screw in or out to fix the angle. I have a few cheapo speed squares from Lidl that I wouldn't mind butchering in this way!
Now that is a really good idea. I will have to test it out. Thank you
Instead of using threaded inserts and putting knobs on the bottom (on top of the plane blade), insert carriage bolts through the plane blade and screw the knobs onto the carriage bolts.
This would work great. And in fact it was my initial plan but I changed it only because I had some threaded inserts and wanted the top to be smooth to hold. Silly really.
I don’t want to be critical but why would you want to flatten all that area on a plane iron, just use the ruler trick as explained by “Rob Cosman “ which will take you a fraction of the time and give you a sharp edge with less effort
I guess it depends on if you use that method or not. Personally I do but for an older iron in need of a good working over I would still flatten further back. Especially as you will get there anyway with enough sharpening over tine, A newer plane I would just do the ruler technique. It's a good point though.
Have you heard of an adjustable bevel?
Yes, but why do you ask.
@ because all that sticking bits of wood to squares seems wasted effort? All the RUclips videos do strange things hardly ever use Bevel so easy to set up and just turn over for perfect copies. I wasn’t being critical just wondering?
@voyager8195 I know, I was curious. You are right, for marking it is perfect. But for running your circular saw among a bevel gauge is too thin. I can't recall if I explained that this was my aim in the video. It is a little cumbersome though for sure.
You should teach for a living! AND, there are very few ‘tutors’ on t’web from England!
Lol, I think I am lacking the patience for teaching, it is a real calling. But I take the compliment . Thank you.
Great video. For the ill fitting mitre gauge, layers of blue tape down the side can help (did this on my temu one I got recently). Also, a pack of cards is also useful to have in the workshop to help with incremental changes. Especially useful for packing out drawer faces I understand
Brilliant advice Chris. And the cards are invaluable. Especially if you are like me and just cant get things quite right. They shim a lot of things in my workshop.
Just one thing: the correct term for the cutter in a plane is "iron", not "blade".
Thank you
There are probably 500 things that people have done with speed squares and I’m pretty sure that if you made a tips video of nothing but speed square tips you can get a pretty good video out of it. I tried reading the manual that comes with a Swanson speed square once, and it’s wild what you can do with one
That is so true and there are 2 reasons I have not done a video on it. 1 is that there are already a few from people far more knowledgeable than me and 2. and this is the important one. I have no clue what that book even says lol. It's mind blowing.
@@startmaking1 just think, there were guys that were the most high-speed that you’ve ever seen climbing up on top of a roof with a tool belt a speed square and a circular saw dragging extension cord and building some stuff on the spot. Some people didn’t have the benefit of having an entire crew on the ground manufacturing pieces for them and passing them up.
@@liquidrockaquatics3900 Um...here "were?" A lot of us still do that, so it's more of there "are." Granted, cordless tools have eliminated the extension cord for some, but the rest of the process remains unchanged.
@@ST-0311 not many people do it alone though. It’s far more common to have someone on the ground cutting while the person in the rafters is measuring and fastening. If they don’t just order the entire truss package and have it delivered. That’s what I see 90% of the time (probably 99% for houses, not barns though)
@@liquidrockaquatics3900 Please quantify "Not many" for me, because I count millions that do.
What you are describing is how a full framing crew operates, and it nothing new. That's how it was done when I did framing and general construction 40 years ago.
However, back then - and still today - millions of small contractors, handymen, remodelers, and DIY'ers don't have the luxury nor need for a designated cutman on the ground.
Barns, yes. Also there are sheds, workshops, carports, gazebos, decks, porches, dormers, skylights, and all sorts of modifications or add-ons don't require a full crew.
There are also still small residential construction outfits that frame entire houses with a small (2 to 4) crew and no designated cutman.
In fact, Shannon of @HouseImprovements is currently building a large cabin mostly by himself, if you care to see how it's done.
All of these people still carry their own saws and speed squares, and they often build in place.
As for trusses: They are fast and simple for a gable ended roof. However, hips and valleys mostly need to be stick built. Hip and valley rafters often need to be modified in place. Therefore, one will still find speed squares and saws up in the roof framing regardless of having someone on the ground.
Hand saw and shooting board.
Spot on. I love my shooting board.
Are you at all related to the guy from ProAV? There's certain similarities. Sorry for random question haha
lol, no. I just googled him. I see what you mean.
ITs in the hands. Man, do I move mine around that much too.
@@startmaking1 haha no, its the rhythm of your voice mostly.
You’re gonna be really conscious of it now haha sorry
#2 why not just use double sided tape and that same block without the recess?
I found that heat makes double sided tape fail, and sometimes water can too. But I didnt try it on this one so it could well work well.
@@startmaking1Fair points. The double sided tape I use can withstand a significant amount of heat before failing. Not sure about water though.
Wait! Why chisel out the block when you can just stick the iron on with double-stick tape?
You could but I have found that water and heat can ruin the double sided adhesion. But if it works for you then that is great.
Maybe put the tape on the guide instead of the router. Easier than aligning on router but uses more tape.
Good suggestion. Thank you
50 pounds of what Englishman ? Actually a very good and worthwhile video. Kudos to ya.
lol. Thank you. Much appreciated.
Why put the blue tape on the router, put the blue tape on the straight edge. This is much easier. I use tape as a shim all the time.
Been using duct tape in multiple layers with a roller to get it as flat as I can to shim out plywood that needs to be exactly 3/4" or as close to 3/4" that I can get.
Get stair gauges for the speed square. Much easier to setup for repeated cuts and easier to lock into place.
If the thickness of the wood is all the same, you do not need to measure the inside corners. If you have access to the outside corners, you can hook the tape measure in the center on the outside corner and pull across. You will have to shift the tape to the right or left a bit to get a reading but the actual value does not matter. It is all about the alignment with that value. Just make sure to remember which way you want, to the right or left to be consistent. While it should not matter because the hook is centered, it is always best to be consistent.
You make a good point. But I was thinking about using less tape. Great idea with the duct tape by the way. And stair gauges. I will have to take a look.
👍
Thank you
Fractions of a millimeter seems to defeat the whole point of millimeters.
Fair enough
If checking for squareness, why bother subtracting the starting number? If your measurement is 30 from starting at 10, all you care about is doing the same thing for the other angle and ending up with 30. If you get 28 for the second measurement what matters is 30 - 28, meaning you need to shift to shorten the longer distance by half of (30 - 28), or 1. The 10 is not important in calculating for checking squareness.
You definitely make a good point. Thank you.
Why not just put the tape on the guide instead of the router?? That way you don’t have to worry about tape on the bottom of the router
It would work. I just feel like that is more tape but if it works it's not wrong.
Great tips but just out of interest, for checking square on the box, the numbers are irrelevant, just as long as they are the same numbers on both diagonals.
YEs thats right. If the diagonals are the same length then the box is square along that plane. Worth checking the sides are all plumb too. If that is the right work for perpendicular to your base.
I see you have one of those foldable ladders from hell. lol
How do you like it?
I think I swear at mine every time I have try and use it.
It's like the Rubik's cube of ladders. And I cant do a Rubik's cube lol.
@@startmaking1 lmfao. cheers
So which is the tip I will actually use? This is a bunch of solutions looking for a problem.
But when you get the problem then you will know the solution.
Forget all that sharpening stuff, it's way too complicated. Learn how to freehand sharpen. In this clip, Rex Kruger tells you how, and why: ruclips.net/video/EmyW8nFDLr4/видео.htmlsi=i5hAQ7omJeIoVl6j That said, don't use oil stones, buy a diamond stone instead.
MAybe,. but for beginners every little helps.
dwtmw
I dont know what this stands for but thank you
Zzzxxx
Thank you Andrew.
It’s like Phil Collins in the work shop 😁great tips and tricks, excellent advice.
Thank you and thank you.