How to Replace Radiator 1995-2001 Ford Explorer

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  • Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
  • Shop for New Auto Parts at 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/c/34/cd...
    This video shows you how to install a radiator on your 1995-2001 Ford Explorer. Overheating is a sure sign there’s something wrong with your cooling system. A leak, rust, or obstructions are all cases that may require a radiator replacement. Install a new TRQ radiator that’s engineered to fit your vehicle.
    This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
    1995 Ford Explorer
    1996 Ford Explorer
    1997 Ford Explorer
    1998 Ford Explorer
    1999 Ford Explorer
    2000 Ford Explorer
    2001 Ford Explorer
    Tools you will need:
    • Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/obbW/1A...
    • Pry Bar 1aau.to/oNq/1AX...
    • 16mm Wrench
    • 19mm Wrench 1aau.to/oQ9/1AX...
    • 10mm Socket 1aau.to/oaXG/1A...
    • 13mm Socket 1aau.to/obgo/1A...
    • 8mm Socket 1aau.to/oaXG/1A...
    • Fan Clutch Wrench
    • Hose Clamp Pliers 1aau.to/oeT/1AX...
    • Pliers
    • Side Cutters
    • Ratchet 1aau.to/obrd/1A...
    • Gloves 1aau.to/oME/1AX...
    • Safety Glasses 1aau.to/oF8/1AX...
    • Drain Pan 1aau.to/owa/1AX...
    • Pick 1aau.to/oJy/1AX...
    Subscribe: / @trq
    ⚠ DISCLAIMER:
    While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

Комментарии • 10

  • @TRQ
    @TRQ  Год назад +3

    √ Watch the Video
    √ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
    √ Do it Yourself
    √ Save Money

  • @sacooper802
    @sacooper802 4 месяца назад +5

    this video was helpful BUT! you don't have to remove serpentine belt or fan!!! this always happens on most you tube videos! they always remove more than necessary, you don't have to remove battery either CHRIST! it was a pretty smooth job actually, if you were lucky enough to read this comment i saved you at least and hour of labor not removing unnecessary parts! takes about an hour and a half to remove radiator, maybe less mine was a 5.0 v8 engine.

  • @jerryking8877
    @jerryking8877 20 дней назад

    Great video! Thank you! I just wanted to interject a couple of things that will help people out tremendously towards the beginning of the video that most people are largely unaware of when it comes to unplugging any sensors from their wiring harness connectors and therefore from the ECM Computer. I took the OBD II Diagnostic Scanner /ECM /PCM Course and am certified in the diagnostic process pertaining to OBD II / On Board ECM /PCM (Engine Control Module & Powertrane Control Module) Computer and its correlation between the EVAP System, all of the various system's sensors, solenoids, check valves, vent valves, shutoff valves, pressure regulators, power actuators, mechanical valve control actuators.... Suffice it to say, it's a very involved system. As a side note, since we're on the subject..., everyone, you must resist the urge to pop in to your local autoparts store and have them reset your codes. You can get your computer's code(s) read, but for your own sake and the sake of efficiently and effectively repairing any hiccups your vehicle may be experiencing, DO NOT RESET THE COMPUTER! These poor guys working there are highly unlikely to be certified in OBD II Diagnostics and get put on the spot by these parts stores that mind bogglingly force these guys who are as in the dark as you are on the subject to go outside and mess with your finely tuned Onboard Diagnostic Computer. 😅 I mean...,what could possibly go wrong? 🙁 The answer is PLENTY. This brings us around to my initial reason for this comment concerning the disconnecting of the M.A.F. (Mass Air Flow) Sensor from its connector and therefore from the air filter box air tube delivering fresh air to the TPS (Throttle Body Position Sensor... I know, why isn't it abbreviated TBPS? Right? Anywhoooo...).
    #1- ANY TIME YOU DISCONNECT ANY SENSORS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS disconnect the NEGATIVE (not the positive) BATTERY CABLE FIRST! You can do serious harm to your computer by foregoing this safety measure and a used computer can and will cost upwards of $500. A new one? You don't wanna know.
    #2- If you disconnect the M.A.F. Sensor from its harness connector to remove the air tube, it will RESET THE M.A.F. SENSOR IN THE COMPUTER AND YOU WILL HAVE TO COMPLETE A FULL DRIVE CYCLE TO GET YOUR VEHICLE TO RUN COTRECTLY AGAIN. This mandatory Drive Cycle consists of driving at highway speeds (55mph) for 20 miles. Not 18 miles, not 19 miles, but 20 MILES. THEN..., YOU HAVE TO IMMEDIATELY PERFORM STOP AND GO DRIVING ON BACK ROADS AND NEIGHBORHOODS AT 25 TO 35 MPH FOR ANOTHER 20 MILES AND THIS 40 MILE ROUND TRIP MUST BE PERFORMED. You do have one recourse. You can pay a mechanic who owns one of those real deal OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tools that costs a fortune to perform a RE-LEARN PROCEDURE on your Computer and the MAF Sensor (NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH THE RESET PROCEEDURE THAT I WARNED AGAINST EARLIER. This is why you cannot let the autoparts store RESET your codes. They are actually resetting all of your sensors which includes a whole barrage of IM SENSORS that will not communicate with the computer if you simply drive home and park the vehicle. This is just a short insight into what takes place if you haphazardly disconnect any sensors without knowing what it will take to get them back up to speed once you reconnect them and also the danger of messing with "Hot" wiring harness connectors. I can just about promise you this guy knows even more than I do about the subject, but he had his hands full with the removal and replacement sequence procedure for the entire cooling system for this 4×4 Sport Utility Vehicle and for that alone I thank him. Thank you sir. You are a scholar and a gentleman. 🧑‍🔧🎓🎩

  • @vikingwind25
    @vikingwind25 Год назад +3

    Very good job ! I would have liked to have seen how to "burp" the engine block of air pockets after refill on this 5 liter engine and maybe how to discharge the AC prior to work. Thanks for doing this video. I have subscribed to your channel.

  • @coryudon3350
    @coryudon3350 8 месяцев назад +1

    Nice

  • @mtt_keepitsoild4766
    @mtt_keepitsoild4766 Год назад +1

    What the belt does the same car no belt required to take out

  • @roorooadventures4771
    @roorooadventures4771 12 дней назад

    you did the longs extra stepsss..... vertion.

  • @pocoyo915
    @pocoyo915 Год назад +1

    Can the explorer run with the condenser deleted!??

  • @sacooper802
    @sacooper802 4 месяца назад +1

    save serious money and buy radiator from rock auto for $112 in 2024, freakin o' Reilly wants $280, your lucky you read this comment, also read my comment below on removing less parts than you have to

  • @joshchism
    @joshchism Год назад +3

    2:00 to 3:30 is cringe