**MOOG Stabilizer Sway Bar Link K750659** amzn.to/3c1oANf Fits: Hyundai Santa Fe 2013-18 and 2019 long wheel base FWD & AWD Kia Sorento 2014-2015 Check out some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar
Hey man, thanks for taking the time to make this video, it was exactly what I needed to get this job done. You saved a stranger and his family a bunch of cash, and these days every dollar matters! Thanks
My stupid mechanic told me that clonking noise was the caliper pins that were worn..i then purchased an entire set of caliper pins and the noise was still there 😡..only after watching this video, I did the bump test and it's exactly the same noise with the worn linkage... I will be changing that next weekend.. Thank you for posting this video 🙂 Trinidad and Tobago 🇹🇹 (caribbean)
And the shop wanted to charge my ole man nearly a thousand dollars to fix this clunk! When we've got fellas like yourself giving so much useful knowledge, there's no way I'd have someone else work on my vehicle. Thanks for the in-depth break down!
Have the same issue. The car dealership said they don’t hear it. I get in and immediately hear it. Now I know the terms to use…. Wish you lived closer. Thanks again……
Best video I've seen explaining everything, pointing out how to check everything. Will be replacing my sway bar links this weekend. Went with the Mevotech greaseable bars, hope to get a little extra life out of them. My vehicle is a 2008 Sebring convertible with the 2.4 litre 4 cylinder. Has a little over 132K, but is starting to show her age. Again, thanks for the video, had heard about this procedure to either keep the cat on the ground or have both wheels off and in the air. I will use my jack stands and replaced the links while car is off ground, much easier installation!
I don't need to do this job...YET, but now I know the proper names of a few suspension components and how to diagnose and deal with "clunks." I've done engine and brake and cluthc issues but have tended to shy away from suspension related gremlins. Not any more. Very good video.
You got the dent in your hand when you tried to push the sway bar free from the strut tower before taking the weight off of the passenger side. Thanks for the video it was extremely helpful to me in diagnosing a friends vehicle
Great video, great technique, very thorough. I'm getting the same "Clunk" on our 14.5' Range Rover Sport with 106K miles... The "Clunk" is coming from the drivers side wheel well area which would indicate it's something either attached to the knuckle/HUB, air-strut, or sway bar/links... Now I'm 95% sure it's either the sway-bar bushings and/or the sway-bar end links. Happens on medium to hard acceleration. I bought both OEM sway-bar bushings and as for the end-links as I went with the Moog serviceable end-links too. Going to install them this weekend God-willing... I hate that "Clunking" sound. Thanks again for the diagnosis that the Dealer has missed twice and costed me over 3K chasing down.
Thank you for showing everyone how to do this procedure. I've been trying to diagnose the annoying clunking noise in my 09 Santa Fe for a month with no success. This video was such a great find. You're in depth instructions are a life saver. I now have a go to place for help with any issues on my Hyundai. Keep up the great work and thank you again for showing us how to diagnose and fix these annoying problems.
Hey Glen, just wanted to thank you for this great video. The tip of lifting the car slightly on the opposite side made the trick for removing the damaged part. You are the man! Thanks again and many blessings to you and your family!
You could as well put the jack down the low arm of the side you working at and lift it a little bit, then you can make the screw go out easily. This way you do not need to lift up the other car´s side ;), BTW of you are going to check the car after this, you just can disconect only the lower screw of the link instead of removing the whole link before to replace it.
I replaced my shocks and struts and my clunking went down but was still there. Your video popped up out of nowhere. Perfect timing. Thanks for the detail.
I taught myself that trick. I was working on a Ford many years ago doing suspension work and had the hardest time of my life connecting the drivers side sway bar link. Live, learn and help others.
THANK YOU!! After listening to clunking for the last 6 months, I did your test and it failed. To test in a parking lot: I turned the front wheels so that I could touch the links with my fingers while reaching in from the rear of the front tire. My brother then bounced the corner of the car and I could feel the play in the lower part of the link quite easily. Both sides were shot. I got my mechanic to change both sway bar links, and it's smooth as silk now. Thanks again! (I like your teaching style, very well done.)
You are so awesome! Excellent instructional video and you get right to the point! Saved my son a couple hundred bucks doing it himself. Car rides like new with no noise!
Just bought a 2014 Sorento and I thought I just wasn't used to the steer by wire steering, it felt squirrely, with a very slight pull to the right, the previous owner mentioned during the test drive that a clunk had started recently. Had my mechanic diagnose and fix before I saw this video. Exactly what you did. Fixed the clunking and the steering tightened up and started tracking perfect. Now I'll check to see if he used a greaseable part.
Excellent video with simple yet effective diagnosis procedures. Saved a significant amount of $$ and a lot of unnecessary work, as I presumed this noise was due to bad struts. It now drives down the road with no noise! Thank you so much!!
Great job Glen making the proper diagnosis and repair. This reminds me of the cartoon I saw about the mechanic that had the car all apart and told the customer we found your noise. It was a marble in the ashtray...lol, Have a great weekend
After having all these clowns working on my Santa Fe but still having the clunking sound I think I'll be able to just fix it myself after watching your video. So, thank you, Sir for explaining the issue and how to fix it so well.
Brilliant advice I changed the bars on mine I had a nightmare because I only had one side off the ground after seeing this man do it right with the tip put both sides off the ground so simple thanks my friend I will be following your video's 😊
I almost gave up and took it in since everything i checked looked good, but then saw this video and it ended up being both sides that needed replacement. Thanks man.
I had a Kia in the shop just yesterday for the exact same problem. And I figured it out exactly like you did by I’m bolting the swaybar link ends. Nice video Glen . Way to take us in their deep😜
I am sorry but korean cars r just cr*p...look good but built quality n reliability is poor...the japanese r the real masters of the automobile, esp toyota
Thank you for the video! This ended up being the issue on my 2012 Hyundai Elantra. Unfortunately, I dumped a lot of money on shocks and struts (though they were close to needing to be replaced). Drives so much better now.
Just about to tackle my 2012 Elantra ( 200,000 miles). While doing an oil change, I noticed the ball joint of the stabilizer had come right out. Oops. Did tie rod ends before and this looks easier.
@@marcknightly9677 - I do wonder if my ball joints are bad. The loud clunking sound is gone but there is still a click sound on some bumps. It is better than it was before.
My wife's car is a 2010 Hyundai Tuscon (similar to Santa Fe) had clunking in front end, thought it was a Tie-rod or Ball-joint. Mechanic said it was a "link" and gave a rough estimate of $200 to fix. After a quick google search and watching your video, I did it myself. I bought a used 18V Torque wrench, and 2 Moog bars from Amazon. All in about $120. Was easier than changing the oil! Thank you!! (btw I have the same grease gun, mine doesn't leak)
Great video, thanks, I have a 2021 Hyundai Venue, and that's exactly the noise I am getting, its only done 7.000 KS, have taken it to 3 Hyundai dealers, they say it's nothing to worry about . Not so, I am an 83-year-old mechanic . Its not right also its under 5-year warrany . I will try to inspect the link . Thanks again
Terrific video! Appreciate the tips. I get nervous rocking the tire from 6/12 position without a jackstand for redundancy, so now I take the extra few minutes.
Great video! Easy to follow, matter of fact. I recently upgraded to a third generation Santa Fe from a 2nd generation thanks to a huge tree limb that crushed my car while parked. I can hear the clunk when the dealership cannot, I will be replacing the sway bar link after assessment. Thanks!
Key to removing them is to have both sides up or down. I lowered the side with wheel off onto a extra jack resting on wood block and rotor to take most weight off. Saved me from having to remove both tires at same time. Same result. Great video. Thank you.
I purchased a Jeep WJ a few days ago. I think one of the rear shocks is blown out. I test drove it and heard it clunking the back. I mentioned it and she had never noticed it but her boyfriend had asked about it earlier in the day. I guess people get used to the noise. I listed to the shock with my automotive stethoscope that was recommended on one of the RUclips channels I watch. Yes, it was you. That is a long end link on that sway bar.
Quick way to check those sway bar links. While the car is on the ground, turn the steering wheel so you can have a little access to the sway bar. Put a pry bar long enough to reach between the control arm and sway bar. Pull the pray bar up and down. You will hear the the clunk noise. You must have the pray bar between the control arm and sway bar.
Tks dude. Fixed my Hyundai Starex (i-Load or i-Max in other countries) clunking noise when going over the road hump, after changing this front stabilizer bar link. Previously changed both sides of tie rod end due to noise when turning the steering wheel. But it will not stop there. Weeks later another slight clunking noise heard when turning the steering wheel due to worn both sides of steering rack end. It looks like this is the package of compulsory components change of Korean made cars after hitting 150K km mileage. Tie rod ends, front stabilizer sway bar links (both sides), steering rack ends, and steering rack rubber bush if worn & loose.
My clunk, was the stabilizer link. Devil of a time finding which one. Meaning, it always sounded off on the RF. It turned out to be the LEFT FRONT, LOWER sway bar link joint was the culprit. It projected the noise to sound like the right front. The top of the link was still tight, that kept me from getting a shake test by grabbing the link to check for play.
Thanks for the detailed video. I missed at what time of the video you demonstrated the clunking noise. I saw initially you pulling on sway bar link and saying that type of play is for it
Thanks for sharing, going to this this on my wife’s 2010 SF. Also bought the “grease-able” kind. Really wished the car manufacturers kept the zerk fittings for the suspension systems.
I thought you did a great job on that front suspension check? I have to do the same thing to my 2010 Scion XB? I'm glad they're the same way you're car has, which makes the job a lot easier. They're not the little ones. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
I was waiting to see how you got the bottom 17mm nut loose. There is almost no room with the control arm and Kia manual shows dropping the subframe and removing the whole bar. No way I will do that. I'm honna go struggle to get it off now. How much difference would a grease fittings make, if maintained by greasing it regular, versus life without a grease fittings. Parts are relatively cheap and my own links for the 2005 and have 232k miles with no grease fittings. The clunk is annoying, but not a big issue. I finally decided to change the links to see if the clunk goes away, rather than jumping into any other parts. Update, replaced sway bar links, control arms and struts. Strut tops were bad, but the clunk was still there. Today I confirmed the noise is from worn stabilizer bushings that hold it to the frame. Now the problem is that to get to the bolts for the bushings, it requires loosening or removing the subframe to reach the bolts. I did see a video where they loosened and dropped the subframe slightly, but even then it's a pain in the arse.
Excellent video got a quote of $600 dollars to change out plugs and pcv looks like 110 dollars in parts. Going to try this a few weeks did you film the throttle body cleaning. I've read there is a certain way to do it. Thanks again.
Hi great video, confirmed what I had thought, would the wear of the stab link be attributed to the replacement of the struts I had done about 2 months ago . Apparently no other issues were found then . Thanks again
I like your videos Glen of where you show each step. I assume that anyone who watches doesn't know and you've got them covered. And for the ones who do know, they'll just skip through the video. My first thought about that impression was that you were pressing on the stabilizer link bolt. So, to confirm it, I back tracked through the video to see you doing that, but you were using your thumb. I see further down in the comments, that's what you were doing. I guess you cut that part out. Anyway, great video and keep up the good work! 😊👍
Great video! Ya, my grease gun leaks as well. I think it's just the oil separating from the grease. Mine is so old, that the grease won't even pump anymore. All the oil leaks out and leaves a dried up lump in the gun. If you don't use the gun often enough, this will happen. I'll have to get a new tube before I start the end links. LOL! What a mess to change it!
Incredibly good video. Turned out this was the problem with my Sonata. Thanks for the detailed instructions. Really saved me a lot of time and trouble.
Thank you so much for description of the sound. I have taken it to the shop several times and they say that can’t hear it….Ii is at the shop today. waiting on a call right now. Wish you lived close. I would go to you. Thank you so much for finding an
This video is really helpful!!! Thank you! I had a clunking noise on the right side of my 2017 elantra for 6months! since i bought the car. After bad experiences with shops, i now do my own work on the car if im able to. Anyways, i bought a new strut 2weeks ago, that didnt fix the clunking noise. When i took the strut off, the sway bar link top joint was moving so freely i could move it without touching it! Now the thing is, i thought it was normal so i left it as if thinking it wouldnt be the clunking issue. Still i bought a lower control arm and bought sway bar links. came in yesterday. Yesterday i replaced the control arm and the clunking is still there! Soooo now im change that sway bar link out and hope thats the issue, which im almost certain it is considering the loose play in the joint. If that isnt the issue, then its the ball joint which i was unable to replace because its stuck lol so again, thank you for this video!
@@ozzstars_cars ok so i installed the links, unfortunately it is indeed my ball joint 🤢. Ima buy a separator tool this wheel and put the new one in. i got coilovers coming in Wednesday so ill just do it all in a shot. One thing about all of this, i may not have fixed the issue, but man have i learned so much about cars since tryna fix things myself. I shouldv went to school for it because im always finding or tryna replace something on my car LOL thankfully im hands on! I subscribed to your channel so i look forward to seeing more vids! Also, could you do a video on replacing a manifold gasket? i believe i have a leak
@@acrocheezefpv doing the work yourself gives a sense of satisfaction. Saving money and doing the job correctly. Here is the manifold gasket replacement along with the spark plugs on a Hyundai Kia 3.3L.ruclips.net/video/_XAopqc_Y8g/видео.html Thanks for subscribing Acro!
@@ozzstars_cars Ok awesome thanks! and one last question!! please! So my car is a semi automatic. but i drive in manual mode all the time. The issue i hear is when i downshift from high rpms. example: If im roughly going 50mph, and theres a wall where the sound of engine/exhaust bounces off of, i can hear a rapid ticking noise. Now, im making an assumption that its an exhaust leak sound, however, it sounds like its maybe my right side axle or something. Any ideas?
Thanks a lot. It's doing the same on my Hyundai i20. It was caused when I ran through a flooded road a couple of years ago, took it to the shocks place and they couldn't diagnose it so I've been driving it like this for all these years, probably from 2018
Nicely done and you must live in a sunny, warm state. I had to cut the bottom bolt of the driver side using an angle grinder as I just couldn't loosen the nut - pb blaster 4 5 times over 2 days, a torch etc. :-) didn't work. Luckily the passenger side literally took 10 mins
I spent $560.00 at my Mazda dealership trying to get rid of the knocking sound but they failed. I went to another mechanic and fared no better. I’m hoping my Mazda MPV has the same part that you took off. Either way, I’ll find the cause because it’s really bad and it’s frustrating as hell that the dealership could not fix it. Thank you for making this video.
@@fish04fun65 Yes. I had some good mechanics look at it and in just 20 minutes they found it had a bad ball joint on the right side. For the life of me, I don't understand why my Mazda dealership could not find the problem. It's either incompetence or they just did not care. I'd always thought highly of them but now I no longer go to Mazda dealerships. It's not worth it.
@@GnosisMan50 I'm having the same problem.... Dealership is a rip-off who only hire Duds. Most mechanics just want your quick service cash and are not bothered diagnosing. It Only Knocks/clunks once when accelerating hard/fast in Drive or once in reverse. If slowly Accelerating I doesn't clunk..... I've been told by 3 mechanics so far "just wait till it gets worse ".... 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
I purchased Hyundai OEM from Rockauto. They didn't have any grease in them and one was as bad loose as one i was replacing. I ended up reusing the good one i just took off. It has 293k miles on it.
@hahahahaha8660 just blew through OEM in 1 month 😂 I'll replace them with cheap aftermarket from now on and save 20 bucks a side. Won't be using moog though. Their parts aren't correct.
I just bought a 2012 Santa Fe limited has 177k miles kinda weird most times drives smooth as can be other times I feel like vibration and can hear something making noise sounds like front driver side. Tires look brand new. I don’t know if rim is bad but don’t make sense cause smoothes out and drives perfectly most times weird any advice be welcome. I just bought it can’t afford be putting bunch more money into it
Thanks for the video. Was 99% sure I had the same problem. Only wanted to change the one. Ended up not the one I thought. Great tips and appreciate the video.
Great video and advice I'm going through the same thing I just changed both lower Ball joints but still getting noise thanks so much I'm gonna order my 2 sway bar links today and change them out 👍
Great video. When you’re talking about the clunking sound, does it ever sound like two pieces of sheet metal hitting each other? Mines is like a loud tacking going over bumps and dips. Took it to three mechanics including the dealership and no one can figure it out.
If the links are very worn out then it's metal on metal sound. Also a wandering feeling in the steering wheel when going straight. Good luck let us know what you find. Maybe show this video to one of your mechanics. 😉
Thanks for the quick response. Appreciate it. I have a new mechanic stopping by today so I will show him and hopefully he figure this out. Mahalo. @@ozzstars_cars
This is my problem now with my Sonata. Its under warranty but the dealer is having a hard time getting parts from Hyundai. The inside part of my drivers tire was bald too. Can these links effect wheel alignment too? Outstanding video! Keep it up!
I did replace the sway bar links on my 08 Acura to a few months ago but man, I hate it. It comes with allen key slot at the end of the knuckle so taking it off was a pita. And because of that, now I'm doubting myself if I did tighten it enough (didn't torque spec it )
Awesome vid ! My gun bleeds too 🥴🤣 it’s so annoying. I think during summer it’s worse. So no I just leave it in oil pan. I thought it was just me with a defective grease gun.
There are four jacking points located at the ends of each rocker. Safety stands are under the chassis as back up. Look at the owners manual for the location.
@Ozzstar's Cars yeh got it done and it was easy. But it was at the limit of my strength. Thank you though. The links were 140. Could have got them cheaper.
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
**MOOG Stabilizer Sway Bar Link K750659** amzn.to/3c1oANf
Fits:
Hyundai Santa Fe 2013-18 and 2019 long wheel base FWD & AWD
Kia Sorento 2014-2015
Check out some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar
@@ozzstars_cars?
Hey man, thanks for taking the time to make this video, it was exactly what I needed to get this job done. You saved a stranger and his family a bunch of cash, and these days every dollar matters! Thanks
Glad I was able to help.
My stupid mechanic told me that clonking noise was the caliper pins that were worn..i then purchased an entire set of caliper pins and the noise was still there 😡..only after watching this video, I did the bump test and it's exactly the same noise with the worn linkage...
I will be changing that next weekend..
Thank you for posting this video 🙂
Trinidad and Tobago 🇹🇹 (caribbean)
Sounds like a nice warm place to be. It was 13⁰f here this morning. Good luck with the fix, show him my video. 🙄
@@ozzstars_cars it's hot 🔥
81°f
@@ozzstars_cars how do I send you the video when I change the linkage?
Great video, you deserve a 5 stars for explaining in such detail et make sure that the camera focus and lighting are alway good! Thank you very much!
Only.one way to do things, that's the right way.👍 Thank you.
And the shop wanted to charge my ole man nearly a thousand dollars to fix this clunk! When we've got fellas like yourself giving so much useful knowledge, there's no way I'd have someone else work on my vehicle. Thanks for the in-depth break down!
You got it man!
Have the same issue. The car dealership said they don’t hear it. I get in and immediately hear it. Now I know the terms to use…. Wish you lived closer. Thanks again……
By far the best video I’ve seen. The detail, providing walkthrough on identifying the issue. Well done.
@@dgloodt thanks for the kind words!
Best video I've seen explaining everything, pointing out how to check everything. Will be replacing my sway bar links this weekend. Went with the Mevotech greaseable bars, hope to get a little extra life out of them. My vehicle is a 2008 Sebring convertible with the 2.4 litre 4 cylinder. Has a little over 132K, but is starting to show her age. Again, thanks for the video, had heard about this procedure to either keep the cat on the ground or have both wheels off and in the air. I will use my jack stands and replaced the links while car is off ground, much easier installation!
Good luck with the fix Rich. Let us know how it goes!
I don't need to do this job...YET, but now I know the proper names of a few suspension components and how to diagnose and deal with "clunks." I've done engine and brake and cluthc issues but have tended to shy away from suspension related gremlins. Not any more. Very good video.
Thanks for your comment. Now you know!
You got the dent in your hand when you tried to push the sway bar free from the strut tower before taking the weight off of the passenger side. Thanks for the video it was extremely helpful to me in diagnosing a friends vehicle
@Benfalk1982 you are correct! Glad to help. -Glen
Great video, great technique, very thorough. I'm getting the same "Clunk" on our 14.5' Range Rover Sport with 106K miles... The "Clunk" is coming from the drivers side wheel well area which would indicate it's something either attached to the knuckle/HUB, air-strut, or sway bar/links... Now I'm 95% sure it's either the sway-bar bushings and/or the sway-bar end links. Happens on medium to hard acceleration. I bought both OEM sway-bar bushings and as for the end-links as I went with the Moog serviceable end-links too. Going to install them this weekend God-willing... I hate that "Clunking" sound. Thanks again for the diagnosis that the Dealer has missed twice and costed me over 3K chasing down.
Let us know how it goes Jeremy. 👍
Oh and BTW if you fix the problem, show the stealership the video. 😁
Great video explaining noise I'm dealing with. Why would anyone thumbs down. Haters are probably jealous.
Thank you sir
Thank you for showing everyone how to do this procedure. I've been trying to diagnose the annoying clunking noise in my 09 Santa Fe for a month with no success. This video was such a great find. You're in depth instructions are a life saver. I now have a go to place for help with any issues on my Hyundai. Keep up the great work and thank you again for showing us how to diagnose and fix these annoying problems.
Thanks for the kind words Jeff!! -Glen (Ozz)
Hey Glen, just wanted to thank you for this great video. The tip of lifting the car slightly on the opposite side made the trick for removing the damaged part. You are the man! Thanks again and many blessings to you and your family!
Glad the video helped Javi!
You could as well put the jack down the low arm of the side you working at and lift it a little bit, then you can make the screw go out easily. This way you do not need to lift up the other car´s side ;), BTW of you are going to check the car after this, you just can disconect only the lower screw of the link instead of removing the whole link before to replace it.
I replaced my shocks and struts and my clunking went down but was still there. Your video popped up out of nowhere. Perfect timing. Thanks for the detail.
Let us know how your diagnosis goes.
Glad you mentioned taking pressure off drop link by jacking up other side. Thanks
I taught myself that trick. I was working on a Ford many years ago doing suspension work and had the hardest time of my life connecting the drivers side sway bar link. Live, learn and help others.
THANK YOU!! After listening to clunking for the last 6 months, I did your test and it failed. To test in a parking lot: I turned the front wheels so that I could touch the links with my fingers while reaching in from the rear of the front tire. My brother then bounced the corner of the car and I could feel the play in the lower part of the link quite easily. Both sides were shot. I got my mechanic to change both sway bar links, and it's smooth as silk now. Thanks again! (I like your teaching style, very well done.)
Thank you, glad the video was educational and enlightening.
This folks is how you make a how to video, thank you sir. 👏
You are so awesome! Excellent instructional video and you get right to the point! Saved my son a couple hundred bucks doing it himself. Car rides like new with no noise!
That is great news Bob!
One of the best instructional videos I have seen on RUclips. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words Andy!
AGREED!
Fantastic explanation of how it can fail and symptoms. Most people just show you how to replace.
I educate. Thanks for the comment Kevin.
Just bought a 2014 Sorento and I thought I just wasn't used to the steer by wire steering, it felt squirrely, with a very slight pull to the right, the previous owner mentioned during the test drive that a clunk had started recently. Had my mechanic diagnose and fix before I saw this video. Exactly what you did. Fixed the clunking and the steering tightened up and started tracking perfect. Now I'll check to see if he used a greaseable part.
Good to hear you have a competent mechanic and not just a parts changer trying to make money.
Excellent video with simple yet effective diagnosis procedures. Saved a significant amount of $$ and a lot of unnecessary work, as I presumed this noise was due to bad struts. It now drives down the road with no noise! Thank you so much!!
You are welcome Steve. The tip jar is open. 👍
Excellent video. I have a similar "Clunk" on my Palisade. I wonder if this is the fix, after TWO shock replacements?
How many miles on the Palisade? I'm looking at a 2024 model. How do you like the car?
Great job Glen making the proper diagnosis and repair. This reminds me of the cartoon I saw about the mechanic that had the car all apart and told the customer we found your noise. It was a marble in the ashtray...lol, Have a great weekend
😄
After having all these clowns working on my Santa Fe but still having the clunking sound I think I'll be able to just fix it myself after watching your video. So, thank you, Sir for explaining the issue and how to fix it so well.
It's easy enough to diagnose. Thanks for the comment Brandy.
Brilliant advice I changed the bars on mine I had a nightmare because I only had one side off the ground after seeing this man do it right with the tip put both sides off the ground so simple thanks my friend I will be following your video's 😊
I almost gave up and took it in since everything i checked looked good, but then saw this video and it ended up being both sides that needed replacement. Thanks man.
$aved your$elf a $mall fortune. 👍 -Glen
Finally, someone that not showing us an easy diagnostic of end links, it might be my issue, will change them next week. Thanks!
Your welcome.
I had a Kia in the shop just yesterday for the exact same problem. And I figured it out exactly like you did by I’m bolting the swaybar link ends. Nice video Glen . Way to take us in their deep😜
Gotta go deep sometimes to get the job done!
@@ozzstars_cars lol
@@ozzstars_cars - Just like they said in the movie Dodgeball ... 😂🤣😂
I am sorry but korean cars r just cr*p...look good but built quality n reliability is poor...the japanese r the real masters of the automobile, esp toyota
Great video ,,,wen replacing the sway bar do i need a alignment?
Sway bar repair/replacement does not require an alignment
Thank you for the video! This ended up being the issue on my 2012 Hyundai Elantra. Unfortunately, I dumped a lot of money on shocks and struts (though they were close to needing to be replaced). Drives so much better now.
That new car feeling!
Just about to tackle my 2012 Elantra ( 200,000 miles). While doing an oil change, I noticed the ball joint of the stabilizer had come right out. Oops.
Did tie rod ends before and this looks easier.
@@marcknightly9677 - I do wonder if my ball joints are bad. The loud clunking sound is gone but there is still a click sound on some bumps. It is better than it was before.
My wife's car is a 2010 Hyundai Tuscon (similar to Santa Fe) had clunking in front end, thought it was a Tie-rod or Ball-joint. Mechanic said it was a "link" and gave a rough estimate of $200 to fix. After a quick google search and watching your video, I did it myself. I bought a used 18V Torque wrench, and 2 Moog bars from Amazon. All in about $120. Was easier than changing the oil! Thank you!! (btw I have the same grease gun, mine doesn't leak)
That awesome Craig and you have a tool to use for a long time. Passing the tip jar around now. 😁👍
Great video, thanks, I have a 2021 Hyundai Venue, and that's exactly the noise I am getting, its only done 7.000 KS, have taken it to 3
Hyundai dealers, they say it's nothing to worry about . Not so, I am an 83-year-old mechanic . Its not right also its under 5-year warrany . I will try to inspect the link . Thanks again
Show the dealership mechanic this video. Good luck Dave!
Thankyou for sharing this Hyundai always seemed to charge me $600 Cad to do this and I've had three so far.
Terrific video! Appreciate the tips. I get nervous rocking the tire from 6/12 position without a jackstand for redundancy, so now I take the extra few minutes.
That's a smart move Neil!
Great video! Easy to follow, matter of fact. I recently upgraded to a third generation Santa Fe from a 2nd generation thanks to a huge tree limb that crushed my car while parked. I can hear the clunk when the dealership cannot, I will be replacing the sway bar link after assessment. Thanks!
You got it Jack! Hope it solves your issue.
Key to removing them is to have both sides up or down. I lowered the side with wheel off onto a extra jack resting on wood block and rotor to take most weight off. Saved me from having to remove both tires at same time. Same result. Great video. Thank you.
Agree both sides up or both down otherwise it's a tough fight. 👍 Thanks
What does that mean "have both sides up or down"?
@@madmax8620 Watch the video and if you still don't get it, take your car to a shop.
I purchased a Jeep WJ a few days ago. I think one of the rear shocks is blown out. I test drove it and heard it clunking the back. I mentioned it and she had never noticed it but her boyfriend had asked about it earlier in the day. I guess people get used to the noise. I listed to the shock with my automotive stethoscope that was recommended on one of the RUclips channels I watch. Yes, it was you.
That is a long end link on that sway bar.
Thanks for the video, very professional. Where to put jack stands exactly when i lift the car ? Subframe ends ?
Quick way to check those sway bar links. While the car is on the ground, turn the steering wheel so you can have a little access to the sway bar. Put a pry bar long enough to reach between the control arm and sway bar. Pull the pray bar up and down. You will hear the the clunk noise. You must have the pray bar between the control arm and sway bar.
I need a pray bar.
Tks dude. Fixed my Hyundai Starex (i-Load or i-Max in other countries) clunking noise when going over the road hump, after changing this front stabilizer bar link. Previously changed both sides of tie rod end due to noise when turning the steering wheel. But it will not stop there. Weeks later another slight clunking noise heard when turning the steering wheel due to worn both sides of steering rack end. It looks like this is the package of compulsory components change of Korean made cars after hitting 150K km mileage. Tie rod ends, front stabilizer sway bar links (both sides), steering rack ends, and steering rack rubber bush if worn & loose.
It's always going to be something on a well used vehicle.
My clunk, was the stabilizer link. Devil of a time finding which one. Meaning, it always sounded off on the RF. It turned out to be the LEFT FRONT, LOWER sway bar link joint was the culprit. It projected the noise to sound like the right front. The top of the link was still tight, that kept me from getting a shake test by grabbing the link to check for play.
Yeah man, it happens! Good find.
Thanks for the detailed video. I missed at what time of the video you demonstrated the clunking noise. I saw initially you pulling on sway bar link and saying that type of play is for it
Wow. What a perfect, professional video explanation in every way. Thank you Sir!
Thanks GG
AGREED!
Thanks for sharing, going to this this on my wife’s 2010 SF.
Also bought the “grease-able” kind. Really wished the car manufacturers kept the zerk fittings for the suspension systems.
Let us know how it works out Carlos.
I thought you did a great job on that front suspension check? I have to do the same thing to my 2010 Scion XB? I'm glad they're the same way you're car has, which makes the job a lot easier. They're not the little ones. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
Glad the video helped you out. Thanks
Love the personality. As a mechanic I hate videos. You are great
Haha thanks! 👍
I was waiting to see how you got the bottom 17mm nut loose. There is almost no room with the control arm and Kia manual shows dropping the subframe and removing the whole bar.
No way I will do that.
I'm honna go struggle to get it off now.
How much difference would a grease fittings make, if maintained by greasing it regular, versus life without a grease fittings.
Parts are relatively cheap and my own links for the 2005 and have 232k miles with no grease fittings.
The clunk is annoying, but not a big issue.
I finally decided to change the links to see if the clunk goes away, rather than jumping into any other parts.
Update, replaced sway bar links, control arms and struts. Strut tops were bad, but the clunk was still there. Today I confirmed the noise is from worn stabilizer bushings that hold it to the frame. Now the problem is that to get to the bolts for the bushings, it requires loosening or removing the subframe to reach the bolts. I did see a video where they loosened and dropped the subframe slightly, but even then it's a pain in the arse.
Awesome man those links can be a bit tricky at times depending on type of cars and the weight that either sits on it or pulls on it.
Very informative, Thank you. You repaired or replaced the sway bar link?
Excellent video got a quote of $600 dollars to change out plugs and pcv looks like 110 dollars in parts. Going to try this a few weeks did you film the throttle body cleaning. I've read there is a certain way to do it. Thanks again.
I might have a throttle body cleaning video, hard to remember with 300+ videos posted. Nothing special to cleaning.
Camera angles great! Informative and humorous too! What more could you ask for? Even my son, RYAN, thought you were humorous! Thanks.
Thanks! Ironic that Dennis is my dads name and Ryan is my sons name. Not kidding.😁 Glad you guys enjoyed the video. 👍
Hi great video, confirmed what I had thought, would the wear of the stab link be attributed to the replacement of the struts I had done about 2 months ago . Apparently no other issues were found then . Thanks again
I highly doubt strut replacement would have much effect on the stabilizer link and vice versa.
@Monkton Trimble is your car over 5 years old? 5/60k mile warranty
I like your videos Glen of where you show each step. I assume that anyone who watches doesn't know and you've got them covered. And for the ones who do know, they'll just skip through the video. My first thought about that impression was that you were pressing on the stabilizer link bolt. So, to confirm it, I back tracked through the video to see you doing that, but you were using your thumb. I see further down in the comments, that's what you were doing. I guess you cut that part out. Anyway, great video and keep up the good work! 😊👍
The magic of editing. 😁 Thanks Terry.
Great video! Ya, my grease gun leaks as well. I think it's just the oil separating from the grease. Mine is so old, that the grease won't even pump anymore. All the oil leaks out and leaves a dried up lump in the gun. If you don't use the gun often enough, this will happen. I'll have to get a new tube before I start the end links. LOL! What a mess to change it!
Stop the grease gun bleed Steve!
Awesome man was trying to find torque specs for this vehicle. Thanks for saying 80!
Incredibly good video. Turned out this was the problem with my Sonata. Thanks for the detailed instructions. Really saved me a lot of time and trouble.
Glad it helped. Pass the tip jar. 😀
Thank you so much for description of the sound. I have taken it to the shop several times and they say that can’t hear it….Ii is at the shop today. waiting on a call right now. Wish you lived close. I would go to you. Thank you so much for finding an
I'm glad the video was helpful to you Linda. Hopefully the shop gets it right this time! Show them the video, they enjoy this kind of thing. 🙂
That dent is from grabbing the sway bar link demonstrating the problem of the clunking noise.
Winner Winner dirty bird dinner
Well done, definitely feel confident about doing a replacement now 👍
Take your time and double check the work.
This video is really helpful!!! Thank you!
I had a clunking noise on the right side of my 2017 elantra for 6months! since i bought the car. After bad experiences with shops, i now do my own work on the car if im able to. Anyways, i bought a new strut 2weeks ago, that didnt fix the clunking noise. When i took the strut off, the sway bar link top joint was moving so freely i could move it without touching it! Now the thing is, i thought it was normal so i left it as if thinking it wouldnt be the clunking issue. Still i bought a lower control arm and bought sway bar links. came in yesterday. Yesterday i replaced the control arm and the clunking is still there! Soooo now im change that sway bar link out and hope thats the issue, which im almost certain it is considering the loose play in the joint. If that isnt the issue, then its the ball joint which i was unable to replace because its stuck lol so again, thank you for this video!
Let's us know when the new links are in. 😉
@@ozzstars_cars getting ready to do it right now
@@ozzstars_cars ok so i installed the links, unfortunately it is indeed my ball joint 🤢.
Ima buy a separator tool this wheel and put the new one in. i got coilovers coming in Wednesday so ill just do it all in a shot. One thing about all of this, i may not have fixed the issue, but man have i learned so much about cars since tryna fix things myself. I shouldv went to school for it because im always finding or tryna replace something on my car LOL thankfully im hands on!
I subscribed to your channel so i look forward to seeing more vids! Also, could you do a video on replacing a manifold gasket? i believe i have a leak
@@acrocheezefpv doing the work yourself gives a sense of satisfaction. Saving money and doing the job correctly. Here is the manifold gasket replacement along with the spark plugs on a Hyundai Kia 3.3L.ruclips.net/video/_XAopqc_Y8g/видео.html
Thanks for subscribing Acro!
@@ozzstars_cars Ok awesome thanks! and one last question!! please! So my car is a semi automatic. but i drive in manual mode all the time. The issue i hear is when i downshift from high rpms.
example: If im roughly going 50mph, and theres a wall where the sound of engine/exhaust bounces off of, i can hear a rapid ticking noise. Now, im making an assumption that its an exhaust leak sound, however, it sounds like its maybe my right side axle or something. Any ideas?
Thanks a lot. It's doing the same on my Hyundai i20. It was caused when I ran through a flooded road a couple of years ago, took it to the shocks place and they couldn't diagnose it so I've been driving it like this for all these years, probably from 2018
wow! Good luck with the fix.
Great video for sure. You made sure we hear it clearly. For us who don’t know cars well
👍
Nicely done and you must live in a sunny, warm state. I had to cut the bottom bolt of the driver side using an angle grinder as I just couldn't loosen the nut - pb blaster 4 5 times over 2 days, a torch etc. :-) didn't work. Luckily the passenger side literally took 10 mins
I wouldn't consider Delaware a sunny warm state but overall the weather is decent.
@@ozzstars_cars nice..spent 2 years working in downtown wilmington 🙂
@@Hoster987 sorry to hear that. lol
Great job, bud. My Sonata has the same problem and now I know how to fix it.
Good news Spicey!
Great video. Dent in your hand is from the nut on the driver's side sway bar end link.
Thanks for this video. Wife's 2015 Santa Fe has the clunk. All of the shops I took it to said they couldn't find anything wrong.
Let us know what you find. 😉
Have same issue with a kia forte koup. New end links, new struts, hub bearings and everything else feels right... still got a clunk
I love this video, thanks for making it. I had this same problem now its gone.
Nice fix!
That’s the exact problem I’m having with my 2017 Santa Fe. Have to,take it in soon to get fixed.
I spent $560.00 at my Mazda dealership trying to get rid of the knocking sound but they failed. I went to another mechanic and fared no better. I’m hoping my Mazda MPV has the same part that you took off. Either way, I’ll find the cause because it’s really bad and it’s frustrating as hell that the dealership could not fix it. Thank you for making this video.
I hope you can find the problem. Replacing parts that are not necessary is wrong. I hope you get your money back!
did you work out your issue?
@@fish04fun65 Yes. I had some good mechanics look at it and in just 20 minutes they found it had a bad ball joint on the right side. For the life of me, I don't understand why my Mazda dealership could not find the problem. It's either incompetence or they just did not care. I'd always thought highly of them but now I no longer go to Mazda dealerships. It's not worth it.
@@GnosisMan50 I'm having the same problem.... Dealership is a rip-off who only hire Duds. Most mechanics just want your quick service cash and are not bothered diagnosing. It Only Knocks/clunks once when accelerating hard/fast in Drive or once in reverse. If slowly Accelerating I doesn't clunk..... I've been told by 3 mechanics so far "just wait till it gets worse ".... 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
I have same sound after installing coilovers. I will try this check when I get home. Thanks for the video!!
Good luck with the diagnosis.
I purchased Hyundai OEM from Rockauto. They didn't have any grease in them and one was as bad loose as one i was replacing. I ended up reusing the good one i just took off. It has 293k miles on it.
Wow that's some serious mileage!
@@ozzstars_cars it's been a very good car. But lazy me has ignored the suspension and in the process of replacing stuff :)
Your hand was on the outer threaded part of the bolt with such force that it left an impression.
Bingo! 💯
I haven’t had any problems with Moog suspension parts. Great video Glen!
Some say differently but I haven't personally seen any issues.
@@ozzstars_cars been threw 3 sets of end links on my dodge charger from moog in the past year and a half. 👀
MOOG parts aren't as good as they used be.
@hahahahaha8660 just blew through OEM in 1 month 😂 I'll replace them with cheap aftermarket from now on and save 20 bucks a side. Won't be using moog though. Their parts aren't correct.
I just bought a 2012 Santa Fe limited has 177k miles kinda weird most times drives smooth as can be other times I feel like vibration and can hear something making noise sounds like front driver side. Tires look brand new. I don’t know if rim is bad but don’t make sense cause smoothes out and drives perfectly most times weird any advice be welcome. I just bought it can’t afford be putting bunch more money into it
That's tough to diagnose over the internet.
Thanks for the video. Was 99% sure I had the same problem. Only wanted to change the one. Ended up not the one I thought. Great tips and appreciate the video.
Glad the video helped you out Michael.
you do a great job explaining, I have a feeling it's my sway bar I'll do this tomorrow
My Verna 2007, is also same condition. Will check on same. I already ordered link rods.
Great video and advice I'm going through the same thing I just changed both lower Ball joints but still getting noise thanks so much I'm gonna order my 2 sway bar links today and change them out 👍
Let us know how it goes!
Exactly like my 2012 Hyundai Accent. Thanks for the “both wheels off the ground tip!”
Great video. When you’re talking about the clunking sound, does it ever sound like two pieces of sheet metal hitting each other? Mines is like a loud tacking going over bumps and dips. Took it to three mechanics including the dealership and no one can figure it out.
If the links are very worn out then it's metal on metal sound. Also a wandering feeling in the steering wheel when going straight. Good luck let us know what you find. Maybe show this video to one of your mechanics. 😉
Thanks for the quick response. Appreciate it. I have a new mechanic stopping by today so I will show him and hopefully he figure this out. Mahalo. @@ozzstars_cars
My noise was unbearable on a bumpy road, turned out to be upper strut mounts. Quick struts took care of it.
Thanks @@GeorgeKennedy-u4r. For some reason after going over a speed bump, the noise disappeared again so I have to wait to see my mechanic.
This is my problem now with my Sonata. Its under warranty but the dealer is having a hard time getting parts from Hyundai. The inside part of my drivers tire was bald too. Can these links effect wheel alignment too? Outstanding video! Keep it up!
Sway bar links effect handling and ride control not tire wear.
@@ozzstars_cars that's what I thought too. This is the first FWD car I've ever owned. Don't know much about this type of suspension.
Great video my man. You rock.
Thanks Chris!
Great video. Excellent instructions and tips and camera work is great. Easy to see the details.
Thank you Dan. I try my best for being a one man band.
😂 I fell asleep. I did pause first. Woke up pressed play and he said maybe you’re falling asleep. That is correct my bad. Great video tho!
😄😄😄 catch up on your beauty sleep! Thanks for watching.
Great video - really liked the "clunk" diagnostics!
Thanks Sharon!
Great Video, I appreciate you taking the time showing us that job.
You're welcome Alex
Just had sway bar links replaced. Still clunks on bumps just as badly.
'07 Hyundai Accent coupe. 184,000 miles. What next?
Find a competent mechanic that can diagnose the problem. Let us know if you can what the problem was.
I did replace the sway bar links on my 08 Acura to a few months ago but man, I hate it. It comes with allen key slot at the end of the knuckle so taking it off was a pita. And because of that, now I'm doubting myself if I did tighten it enough (didn't torque spec it )
The hex kind can be a bear to remove. I usually cut the old ones off.
Awesome vid ! My gun bleeds too 🥴🤣 it’s so annoying. I think during summer it’s worse. So no I just leave it in oil pan. I thought it was just me with a defective grease gun.
It's the quality of today's grease. Thanks for the comment.
Excellent video. I have the same sound. Ill be doing this check on my car tomorrow. Very informative.
Glad the video was helpful. I just swapped out the sway bar links on an '07 Hyundai Azera today. Big improvement in handling and ride!
Great video. 👍
Thanks Ron, appreciate the comment. -Glen
Tremendously helpful! Thank you for explaining in detail , certainly helped save a lot of time and frustration.
Glad to know the video helped you out! -Glen (Ozz)
Thanks for showing all the steps and tips along the way. Great video.
You're welcome Jason. 👍
Easiest job on the suv. Done em multiple times and never noticed a difference. Also an awd also wanders there notorious for it
Where did you place the Jack's and stands
There are four jacking points located at the ends of each rocker. Safety stands are under the chassis as back up. Look at the owners manual for the location.
Amazing guide. If my quote comes in too high. Heck im doing it myself. I do have a torque wrench so should be smooth.👍
Easy job
@Ozzstar's Cars yeh got it done and it was easy. But it was at the limit of my strength. Thank you though. The links were 140. Could have got them cheaper.
Yes they make a lot of noise . I save the old ones , as that piece of rod comes in handy . Nice no nonsense video.
Thanks Esox!
3-years late, but the ring indent on the palm of your left hand ........................ is from the centre pin of the jack handle?
Good guess but it's actually from the sway bar link bolt, when I grabbed onto it.