I’m good on wood stain trying to do this job here but unfortunately I can not find the quick dry polyurethane sealer & clear here the other reason I need a work shop to make that business just looking for my dream job I believe myself that I’m able to work on wood which anyone sees it will be surprised thanks for sharing it bro
Thank you for the feedback. I have both options that you mentioned for when I feel I need to use them. This product was Waterborne Poly, so it wasn't irritating, or sticky on the arms.
You're clearly a pro. I am not, but I do have a good Titan rig and some experience with it. I think you said 410 tip. Did you thin it at all? I have a small cabin with T&G pine interior and I want to clear it with water based poly ( no stain ). For a large area , would you use the 410 tip un-thinned? Great job !
410 works well but only if product is put on quickly/thin. Deft poly is good stuff but like most waterborne clears it can be fussy when sprayed or even brushed out. Just has to go on thin each coat. A 408 would also be a good tip to use.
I love the look - how do you maintain a finish like that when it starts getting worn? Do you have to sand it all off or can you just hit it with more poly?
For between 2nd and 3rd coat, you can sand or wet sand this product about 2 hours after coating... careful that's probably the minimum requirement it could be longer if it's not real warm.
James Quant hey James yes I wet sanded it with a fine sanding sponge and wipe the excess off of with a clean rag as I go. It was just some light motions but I hit all surfaces.
Strong work. I am going to use my airless to put a water based spar urethane over my gel stained metal garage doors. I think i can recoat (while it is still tacky) until I achieve the desired look?
Thank you. I wouldn't recoat when it's still tacky but that's my gut feeling. Follow the directions allowing a little for weather conditions. I'm using WB poly today by brush and plan to have almost 2 hours between. (I need to sand anyways)
@@XCPainter OK, I was under the impression if it cured then sanding was necessary between coats. I don’t plan to sand between coats, but maybe I was ill advised?
@@cwsosby I wouldn't say you were ill advised... over the metal door, the 1st coat MAY not need to sanded at all. With wooden projects, sanding is kinda required.
@@cwsosby You're right about if there is a 24 hour gap between coats, a scuff would be good. So a voiding that is a great plan, just don't recoat too soon. I didn't read the directions on WB SPAR lately to see if that's 1,2 or more hours yet but I imagine at least 2
That is a water based polyurethane? I was wondering about the cleaning of the sprayer after using that product. I have a 3000 psi airless sprayer, and I'd like to redo my hardwood floors.
Yes, this was waterborne clear coat that washes out with water, and a cleaner like Pretty Boy Paint cleaner is optional if you'd like. I wouldn't spray poly on floors, would use pads or tools and techniques the pro floor guys use.
Kevin Nichols Hi. In this sitution it wouldn't make it any easier. These doors weigh at least 250 lbs each, maybe 300lbs. You'd have to have a good area to work on them, have padded, strong saw horses at just the right height, would have to be able to close off the entry and lock the house up everyday, and you'd still have to do the jamb and threshold which takes masking, and sealing up the entry from all the wind and rain anyways... then you'd have to hang them back up and get them fitted perfectly, which is hardly possible with 2 guys let alone by myself. With them in place I can open and close them during the prep and staining phase. I could lock the house up each night with them closed.
Spraying oil, I would use different methods and movements... it's trickier. Possibly would just brush as well, unless I tested my spray results with the product, and was confident that it would work smoothly
I have sprayed oil varnish but used a hvlp, it wasn't easy or fun... there can be issues with the sprayed finish and you have to wait until the next day for each coat.
Dude why would you take respirator off while all the fumes in the air, good prep work !! Look out for your health first though lung cancer is no joke for painters
Yeah thanks for asking about the respirator. It was temporary. Just had to take the opportinity to be able to give info during this video or I might not have had a decent video to make from the footage. Thanks for compliment, it was important for me to do really thorough prep.
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Like a boss. Your masking job is as good as it gets. Send it! Nice work.
Nice job, it looks good.
I live in florida you did some work for my friends cousins house you guys do great work 💯
Great job men.... 👍
Triple around the world, walk the dog combo on the jamb and threshold! NAILED IT!
great job man
Belle les portes et la protection en papier kraft 👍👍
looks nice bro
Brilliant
I’m good on wood stain trying to do this job here but unfortunately I can not find the quick dry polyurethane sealer & clear here the other reason I need a work shop to make that business just looking for my dream job I believe myself that I’m able to work on wood which anyone sees it will be surprised thanks for sharing it bro
I’m a painting contractor myself. Nice work man!
You have used your sprayer a couple times before it would appear..lol
Thank you! Got to spray this product pretty light and fast.
Super strong is crazy clear
get it!
Get a full body spray suit and you wont have stick arms later. Also the full face mask saves eye irritation.
Thank you for the feedback. I have both options that you mentioned for when I feel I need to use them.
This product was Waterborne Poly, so it wasn't irritating, or sticky on the arms.
You're clearly a pro. I am not, but I do have a good Titan rig and some experience with it. I think you said 410 tip. Did you thin it at all? I have a small cabin with T&G pine interior and I want to clear it with water based poly ( no stain ). For a large area , would you use the 410 tip un-thinned? Great job !
410 works well but only if product is put on quickly/thin. Deft poly is good stuff but like most waterborne clears it can be fussy when sprayed or even brushed out. Just has to go on thin each coat. A 408 would also be a good tip to use.
I love the look - how do you maintain a finish like that when it starts getting worn? Do you have to sand it all off or can you just hit it with more poly?
Can do a maintenance coat or two within a couple to 3 years for best results
Nice work, did you thin the deft at all?
Brian Shultzman thank you. No I didn't thin the deft waterborne. It's pretty thin already and flows a lot.
Nice work, how long long do you wait to wet sand and then before the next coat?
For between 2nd and 3rd coat, you can sand or wet sand this product about 2 hours after coating... careful that's probably the minimum requirement it could be longer if it's not real warm.
in the beginning it was hard to hear you. did say that you wet sanded the clear. what grit did you use. beautiful work
James Quant hey James yes I wet sanded it with a fine sanding sponge and wipe the excess off of with a clean rag as I go. It was just some light motions but I hit all surfaces.
Is the Deft still your favorite poly for woodwork?
It's a good product. I'm open to different products for each job.
Strong work. I am going to use my airless to put a water based spar urethane over my gel stained metal garage doors. I think i can recoat (while it is still tacky) until I achieve the desired look?
Thank you. I wouldn't recoat when it's still tacky but that's my gut feeling. Follow the directions allowing a little for weather conditions. I'm using WB poly today by brush and plan to have almost 2 hours between. (I need to sand anyways)
It does help to have each coat "cure" the minimum recommended amount or adhesion and durability will suffer
@@XCPainter OK, I was under the impression if it cured then sanding was necessary between coats. I don’t plan to sand between coats, but maybe I was ill advised?
@@cwsosby I wouldn't say you were ill advised... over the metal door, the 1st coat MAY not need to sanded at all. With wooden projects, sanding is kinda required.
@@cwsosby You're right about if there is a 24 hour gap between coats, a scuff would be good.
So a voiding that is a great plan, just don't recoat too soon. I didn't read the directions on WB SPAR lately to see if that's 1,2 or more hours yet but I imagine at least 2
That is a water based polyurethane? I was wondering about the cleaning of the sprayer after using that product. I have a 3000 psi airless sprayer, and I'd like to redo my hardwood floors.
Yes, this was waterborne clear coat that washes out with water, and a cleaner like Pretty Boy Paint cleaner is optional if you'd like. I wouldn't spray poly on floors, would use pads or tools and techniques the pro floor guys use.
My. Dude inhaled cancer like it was nothing
Maybe for a moment eh?
Aye good shit though bro keep doing your thing , respect 💯
Could I use an hvlp gun with turbine pressure? (10 psi) , if so , do I need to thin?
You should be able to use HVLP with this product. Hopefully you won't have to thin it much.
Wouldn't it be easier to remove the doors and foam roll or brush them on a horizontal service? Prep looks like it took a while.
Kevin Nichols Hi. In this sitution it wouldn't make it any easier. These doors weigh at least 250 lbs each, maybe 300lbs. You'd have to have a good area to work on them, have padded, strong saw horses at just the right height, would have to be able to close off the entry and lock the house up everyday, and you'd still have to do the jamb and threshold which takes masking, and sealing up the entry from all the wind and rain anyways... then you'd have to hang them back up and get them fitted perfectly, which is hardly possible with 2 guys let alone by myself.
With them in place I can open and close them during the prep and staining phase. I could lock the house up each night with them closed.
Is really good but.... is nasty super nasty the odor
Not bad at all man, waterborne product. But I got the respirator
Have you tried this with oil?
Spraying oil, I would use different methods and movements... it's trickier.
Possibly would just brush as well, unless I tested my spray results with the product, and was confident that it would work smoothly
I have sprayed oil varnish but used a hvlp, it wasn't easy or fun... there can be issues with the sprayed finish and you have to wait until the next day for each coat.
What sprayer and tip is this
I think it was my graco 695 low boy and 410ff
Deff clear is super strong Is nasty like cheap tequila you get high is nasty
Dude why would you take respirator off while all the fumes in the air, good prep work !! Look out for your health first though lung cancer is no joke for painters
Yeah thanks for asking about the respirator. It was temporary. Just had to take the opportinity to be able to give info during this video or I might not have had a decent video to make from the footage.
Thanks for compliment, it was important for me to do really thorough prep.
Can’t play when your in poly!