Great video! I do have one (non painting) suggestion though... Whenever you remove a door (especially a heavy entry door) always remove the hinge pins in order from the bottom to the top. In other words remove the bottom pin first, then the middle pin, then the top pin. This allows the door to hang on the top pin during the process and keeps a lot of mechanical stress off of the other hinges if done in any other order. Another tip to consider is while removing the pins (from the bottom up) try to keep the empty (unpinned) door hinges as close as possible to their mating hinges on the door jamb until the top pin is finally removed. Again, this will minimize the stress on the top pin during the removal process.
This looks good .I would remind people if they do use a solvent based lacquer to be sure no open flame . Water heater maybe gas ?Could flash fire from fumes .
Well I've been watching alot of your videos lately u do a very professional job I like the way u get really into your work I find it very motivational so thanks for the motivation.
What a wonderful video. And people need to think about and order that hinge pin removal tool. It's much better than a screwdriver that can possibly scratch a door if it slips. I have a question though. I have a fiberglass door and it needs a topcoat of urethane or is it polyurethane. My Thermatru door company always wants me to buy their expensive topcoat, so I do. But what other brand of topcoat can I use on the exterior side that will ALSO give good adherence, and protection?
My wife and I live in South Florida, and have a metal impact door that is painted to look like real wood. Over the years, the external face has lightened up a bit do to the elements. We are thinking about cleaning it, then re-sealing it. Would the process you demonstrated be safe for a painted door? Which product would you recommend for our application. We'd prefer something with UV and Water protection if possible. Thank you for your video and channel, it was inspiring.
do you have a video covering were to use oil based or water based , polyurethanes, spar urethane , varnishes , lacquers, spraying or not spraying , i really want to know were to use in what, and how to recognize what is been used so i don't apply the wrong stuff on top of it and cause reactions, i what to know what can be sprayed, and what not to spray. i know is probably a very long video .Is water based more durable than oil base? i have seen some videos of yours and i never see you using oil based stuff much.
How long I have to wait to the door be dryer? For the second coat and how need to be dry to put the door back and closed? Thank you for this video really help me, with my new company
Hi Chris good video I am a small handyman and I have a client with a double door like the one you fixed in this video can I use a hand-held sprayer to spray the urethane I can't afford a Vulcan 440 is there another type of spray that you can recommend preferably a handheld that will do the same job well let me know thank you
I had to take my door down to the bare wood (removing varnish and stain) because of severe wear. My question is how do you sand the detail parts of the wood. Obviously a sander will not fit. Sometimes because of the grain I find myself trying to sand up and down in these small areas which is quite tedious. Suggestions as to how to sand these areas quickly would be much appreciated.
I tried spraying Minwax polycrylic with an airless sprayer, but I'm sure I did something terribly wrong, as I got nothing but bubbles. Any suggestions, or should I use a different product?
I installed front and back pine exterior doors. did not stain them, just brushed with marine clear coat finish. in a year or two both doors molded beneath the finish.! WHY? HOW SHOULD I FIX THEM? ( I COULD STAIN THEM THIS TIME)
Great video, Chris. I have a compressed air, gravity fed cup-type sprayer. I know the overspray will be a lot worse than an airless, but can I use it and get similar results?
Hey Chris, again another great video! I just picked up very nice new front door at a trade show and I am waiting to install it. I am having it milled out but when I get it back I was told to seal the top and bottom as this is where doors will gain moisture. The wood is a kiln dried poplar and is 1 step before petrified so according to manufacturer doesn't need to be coated except for the ends. My question is can I use a linseed oil as a protectant instead of spraying or will this be a bad option and possibly mess with future coatings of lacquer if I decide to ever spray it? Also, do Need to sand the bare wood before I coat it if I'm not staining it first? Thanks man, I know you have a bunch of comments but I appreciate your reply and all of your videos. I watch them all!
did you use Old Masters clearcoat ???? I have been using it and like the results but have found it very reflective in direct sunlight (good for protection but gives the door a very "shiny" look) .... Most doors have been fine , but the last door i did got massive sun in the afternoon and looks pretty "shiny" (from the street) when the sun is beaming directly on it
A lot of the questions that I have were already asked by other people, but it's not letting me see your response to them. You should talk to RUclips about that. I think you said that the water based clear coat you used would take 2-3 hrs to fully dry. What if I am using using the Oil based product Minwax Helmsman spar urethane?
I thought I would ask, but I have always wondered why doors are not wood dyed rather than applying stain. From a surface point of view, you woudn't run into the problems that you do with stain, such as peeling and flaking, because in fact, you dyed the wood. Just curious to know if there are any downsides to using dye. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Hey, thank you for being here with us! Due to the overwhelming amount of messages we get each day, we have created an amazing community through a private FaceBook group called Paint Life Mafia. Join us for private live shows and much more. Only members will be allowed to enter and interact in the group, creating a tighter knit community of painters. Each tier has different perks, depending on what you are looking for. Click here to learn more about this EXCLUSIVE group and join: facebook.com/groups/2305219262837596/ Special Thanks - Chris Berry, The Idaho Painter
Chris can you recommend a good water based urethane for a similar project. My door is fiberglass jeldwen w a factory finish but with no preexisting clear coat. Looks great but seems to chip easy. Thanks for any suggestions. Thanks for great vids👍
@@Idahopainter ps. I got on Amazon before you responded and bought some general finishes 450 flat water based. Am gonna use some 6inch foam rollers and see what kind of results I can get. Do you see any flaws in my plan?
You should protect your face while doing this, don't breath it. I tell my son that all the time, he makes beautiful wood furniture. P.S. can you come do my front water damage door? LOL
Nice video. Tip for you: instead of saying "I have a video showing how to use this tool" and forcing your viewers to find it, instead link to it and say "Click here to learn in-depth how I use this tool" (or however you want to phrase it, point being you should do the work for your viewers :-P)
+The Idaho Painter so if I have unfinished wood I should put 4 coats? Is that to achieve the glossiness? Do two coats on unfinished wood not protect it from the weather?
No problems with bubbles if it's sprayed on. Brushing all that polyurethane without getting bubbles would take a lot longer than it takes to set up the paint gun
Great video! I do have one (non painting) suggestion though... Whenever you remove a door (especially a heavy entry door) always remove the hinge pins in order from the bottom to the top. In other words remove the bottom pin first, then the middle pin, then the top pin. This allows the door to hang on the top pin during the process and keeps a lot of mechanical stress off of the other hinges if done in any other order.
Another tip to consider is while removing the pins (from the bottom up) try to keep the empty (unpinned) door hinges as close as possible to their mating hinges on the door jamb until the top pin is finally removed. Again, this will minimize the stress on the top pin during the removal process.
Thanks for your great video Chris.
Looks great 👍
Good job on the door chris
Great work!
Good job !
Nice job Chris. Very helpful tutorial. Douglas
Great video!👍🏼
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Love your videos!! Thank you so much for sharing your professional tips..
You are welcome!
This looks good .I would remind people if they do use a solvent based lacquer to be sure no open flame . Water heater maybe gas ?Could flash fire from fumes .
Great video. I think I need to get a Titan 440.
Thanks for a great video. How do you handle a door that has a crack in one of the panels from sun exposure?
Well I've been watching alot of your videos lately u do a very professional job I like the way u get really into your work I find it very motivational so thanks for the motivation.
You are welcome! Thank you for supporting :)
I really appreciate it your professionalism and I have a question can you spray doors without removing them ?
The best painter
What a wonderful video. And people need to think about and order that hinge pin removal tool. It's much better than a screwdriver that can possibly scratch a door if it slips. I have a question though. I have a fiberglass door and it needs a topcoat of urethane or is it polyurethane. My Thermatru door company always wants me to buy their expensive topcoat, so I do. But what other brand of topcoat can I use on the exterior side that will ALSO give good adherence, and protection?
I almost have my Licenced that’s why i always watch you videos
My wife and I live in South Florida, and have a metal impact door that is painted to look like real wood. Over the years, the external face has lightened up a bit do to the elements. We are thinking about cleaning it, then re-sealing it. Would the process you demonstrated be safe for a painted door? Which product would you recommend for our application. We'd prefer something with UV and Water protection if possible.
Thank you for your video and channel, it was inspiring.
do you have a video covering were to use oil based or water based , polyurethanes, spar urethane , varnishes , lacquers, spraying or not spraying , i really want to know were to use in what, and how to recognize what is been used so i don't apply the wrong stuff on top of it and cause reactions, i what to know what can be sprayed, and what not to spray.
i know is probably a very long video .Is water based more durable than oil base?
i have seen some videos of yours and i never see you using oil based stuff much.
How long I have to wait to the door be dryer? For the second coat and how need to be dry to put the door back and closed?
Thank you for this video really help me, with my new company
Hi Chris good video I am a small handyman and I have a client with a double door like the one you fixed in this video can I use a hand-held sprayer to spray the urethane I can't afford a Vulcan 440 is there another type of spray that you can recommend preferably a handheld that will do the same job well let me know thank you
Hey chris, good video, what product did you spray on the door?? Thanks!
good job
Thanks!
nice
Did you ever consider using an air assisted airless as opposed to the airless for fine finish work or whats your opinion on such machines
I had to take my door down to the bare wood (removing varnish and stain) because of severe wear. My question is how do you sand the detail parts of the wood. Obviously a sander will not fit. Sometimes because of the grain I find myself trying to sand up and down in these small areas which is quite tedious. Suggestions as to how to sand these areas quickly would be much appreciated.
Did you have to thin that product?
Nice work.
Great job, you need a couple folding saw horses easier on the back!
I tried spraying Minwax polycrylic with an airless sprayer, but I'm sure I did something terribly wrong, as I got nothing but bubbles. Any suggestions, or should I use a different product?
Good point with the cardboard for on the 5 gallon buckets.......
Attention to detail, I like that. I'd hire this man
How to color match exterior fiberglass door to match rest of trim around door. Please I need tips to match as perfect as possible
I installed front and back pine exterior doors. did not stain them, just brushed with marine clear coat finish. in a year or two both doors molded beneath the finish.! WHY? HOW SHOULD I FIX THEM? ( I COULD STAIN THEM THIS TIME)
Hi, Chris the Idaho Painter - if us laymen folk don't happen to have a sprayer like that, are you able to properly clearcoat a door without one?
Great video, Chris. I have a compressed air, gravity fed cup-type sprayer. I know the overspray will be a lot worse than an airless, but can I use it and get similar results?
Thx... Good advice!
the music is avery nice add brother.
I really like your video. You are very professional! If you were in California I would hire you.
Hey Chris, again another great video! I just picked up very nice new front door at a trade show and I am waiting to install it. I am having it milled out but when I get it back I was told to seal the top and bottom as this is where doors will gain moisture. The wood is a kiln dried poplar and is 1 step before petrified so according to manufacturer doesn't need to be coated except for the ends. My question is can I use a linseed oil as a protectant instead of spraying or will this be a bad option and possibly mess with future coatings of lacquer if I decide to ever spray it? Also, do Need to sand the bare wood before I coat it if I'm not staining it first?
Thanks man, I know you have a bunch of comments but I appreciate your reply and all of your videos. I watch them all!
***** thanks my man. I will do that!
can i buy one of those hinge pin removers from your store?
is oil-based urethane better than water-based for exterior doors?
Great job!! you can wear your mask for us now-that stuff is hazardous
Go sideways/vertically with 72" masking on a door the. You don't have to two piece it.
Hi, what brand clear coat use??
My dream is work for you Conpany... but I live in California
Is the 3m plastic self seal ..
What tip are y using.!! . Great video congrats 🎉
TriTech 310 from paintlifesupply.com
did you use Old Masters clearcoat ???? I have been using it and like the results but have found it very reflective in direct sunlight (good for protection but gives the door a very "shiny" look) .... Most doors have been fine , but the last door i did got massive sun in the afternoon and looks pretty "shiny" (from the street) when the sun is beaming directly on it
Does it make the door look almost fake
A lot of the questions that I have were already asked by other people, but it's not letting me see your response to them. You should talk to RUclips about that.
I think you said that the water based clear coat you used would take 2-3 hrs to fully dry. What if I am using using the Oil based product Minwax Helmsman spar urethane?
It takes about 8 hours
I am planning on using the oil based Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, what's your experience w/ that product? Do u know how long that may last?
We only used water based
How do you determine previous finish product, and if the water based urethane adheres?
Water based urethane will adhere to any surface
What is the stain and poly you use and how long does it take to dry between stages
Sherwood glaze and helmsman takes several hours
What did you charge for this process?
I thought I would ask, but I have always wondered why doors are not wood dyed rather than applying stain. From a surface point of view, you woudn't run into the problems that you do with stain, such as peeling and flaking, because in fact, you dyed the wood. Just curious to know if there are any downsides to using dye. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Hey, thank you for being here with us! Due to the overwhelming amount of messages we get each day, we have created an amazing community through a private FaceBook group called Paint Life Mafia. Join us for private live shows and much more. Only members will be allowed to enter and interact in the group, creating a tighter knit community of painters. Each tier has different perks, depending on what you are looking for. Click here to learn more about this EXCLUSIVE group and join: facebook.com/groups/2305219262837596/
Special Thanks - Chris Berry, The Idaho Painter
Chris can you recommend a good water based urethane for a similar project. My door is fiberglass jeldwen w a factory finish but with no preexisting clear coat. Looks great but seems to chip easy.
Thanks for any suggestions. Thanks for great vids👍
Helmsman spar urethane H2O
@@Idahopainter Thanks 👍
@@Idahopainter ps. I got on Amazon before you responded and bought some general finishes 450 flat water based. Am gonna use some 6inch foam rollers and see what kind of results I can get. Do you see any flaws in my plan?
You should protect your face while doing this, don't breath it. I tell my son that all the time, he makes beautiful wood furniture.
P.S. can you come do my front water damage door? LOL
Can you paint the door with an exterior latex with a color and then put the exterior polyurethane it because the sun is on it all day long.......
I have never heard of doing that
So my neighbor wants me to send restain and seal their front door. Any idea how much I should charge them for that? Thank you in advance.
$650
Hi criss this its Carmelo from my angels painting you are very profecional can you toll me how to improve my business ?
Nice video. Tip for you: instead of saying "I have a video showing how to use this tool" and forcing your viewers to find it, instead link to it and say "Click here to learn in-depth how I use this tool" (or however you want to phrase it, point being you should do the work for your viewers :-P)
I want to varnish my front door but first I need to learn how to fill dog scrathes. Do you have a video for that?
If it is clear on stain wood you have to sand them out
Kookie accent but great content, real cool info
Mine is horrible. I would need subtitles if I did a video. I like your channel, keep up the good work.
Of gotten Habit Removing all Hard ware
Should you not be wearing an organic (painting) mask? Also, I thought exterior doors required an oil based paint.
Yes, you should, but for filming purposes I do not so I can speak. We do not use oil based paint
I just found an outdoor water based polyurethane. I did not see at Home Depot, but Lowes carries it. Thanks again.
You're only doing two coats? I thought water-based urethane requires 3-4 coats?
+The Idaho Painter so if I have unfinished wood I should put 4 coats?
Is that to achieve the glossiness? Do two coats on unfinished wood not protect it from the weather?
***** Thanks for the advice.
So is 4 coats on a planter good enough?
So basically a screen and coat not a refinish. Good job either way
Yep
Take the door hardware off if you are going to take all that time to do, it’s not that hard.
There was absolutely no need to spray a single door....should've just brushed it.
***** I agree.
I agree to spray a single door sounds like an exercise in futility like I said you want to know what your talking about
No problems with bubbles if it's sprayed on. Brushing all that polyurethane without getting bubbles would take a lot longer than it takes to set up the paint gun
You need mask